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SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY
Department of Textile Engineering
251/A&252, tejgaon, I/A Dhaka-1208
Dhaka, Bangladesh
JINNAT APPARELS LTD
CONTENT
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT………………………………………….. 03
INTRODUCTION …………………………………………………. 04
JINNAT APPARELS LTD…………………………………………. 05
LOCATION OF THE MILL ……………………………………….. 07
ORGANIZATION STRUCTURE OF J.A.L...………….………….. 08
PROCESS FLOW CHART OF KNITTING………………………... 09
LAY OUT PLAN OF THE KNITTING SECTION ……………….. 10
KNITTING SECTION ……………………………………………… 11
SPECIFICATION OF CIRCULAR KNITTING M/C. …………..…. 12
CIRCULAR KNITTING M/C……………………………………….. 14
PRODUCTION CALCULATION ………………………………….. 17
IMOPORTANT EQUIPMENT OF CIRCULAR KNITTING M/C…. 18
NECESSARY INFORMATION ………………………………….…. 21
METHODS OF INCREASING PRODUCTION …………………..... 25
CAUSES OF LOOP LENTH VARIATION ………………………… 27
CONTROL OF FABRIC QUALITY ………………………………... 28
STITCH NOTATION, CAM ARRANGEMENT & NEEDLE
REPEAT OF SOME KNITTED FABRICS …………………………. 32
FABICS PRODUCED IN JAL …………………………………….... 36
CONCLUSION …………………………………………………...….. 37
INTRODUCTION
Industrial attachment is an essential part of 4-years B.Sc. in Textile Technology
course of southeast university . I had the opportunity to perform the industrial
attachment with Jinnat Apparels Ltd. During 45 days long attachment, I studied the
man, machines, material aspects of the circular knitting section, quality control section,
planning section, grey fabric inspection section and finished fabric inspection section
of the mill.I also had a short visit in the garments section of the factory. According to
my studies there I have prepared the following report and would like to present.
05
JINNAT APPARELS LTD.
Jinnat Apparels Ltd. is equipped with circular knitting and finishing. It produces
fine quality and blended knit fabrics in a variety of styles. Jerseys, rib, piques and other
single knit textures are all available.
Current production in tubular and open width exceeds 7 tons per day. Fabric
weight from 150 to 260 GSM in styles which include jersey, pique and fabric with
Lycra.
JINNAT APPARELS LTD. (JAL) AT A GLANCE
1. Name of the project : JINNAT APPARELS LTD. (JAL)
2. Project proponent : DBL Group of industries.
3. Location : Sardaganj, Kashimpur, Gazipur.
4. Communication : The project is easily accessible by road.
5. Product name : Knitted goods.
6. Plant capacity : 2500 tons per year.
7. Amount land : 60 Bigha
8. No. of employees : About 2200
LOCATION OF THE MILL
Jinnat Apparels Ltd. is situated at Sardaganj, Kashimpur, Gazipur. It is located at
the East Side of Nabinagar-Kaliakair road and about 45 km away from southeast
university , Tejgaon, Dhaka.
# Site location of JAL:
Kaliakair
Sripur
Bustand
Kashimpur
Bazar
E.P.Z
Abdullahpur
Nabinagar
Ashulia
N
W E
S
Southeast university
TYPE OF MILL
JAL is horizontally integrated type of mill, where processing started from
knitting to packing.
07
EXISTING ORGANIZATIONAL STRUCTURE
GM
Garments
Manager Manager
P.M. – 1 PM - 4
P.O. – 1 Q.C. Manager – 8
Supervisor – 4 Supervisor – 56
Worker – 100 Line chief – 16
Line Quality Controller – 32
Operator
Worker – 2000
Knitting
08
PROCESS FLOW CHART OF KNITTING
Yarn in cone form
Feeding the yarn cone in the creel
Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip-tape positive feeding arrangement and tension
device
Knitting
Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting
Numbering
Inspection
LAY OUT PLAN OF KNITTING SECTION OF J.A.L.
Inspection Compressor room
28 01 02 03
Toilet
Office
Store
27 07 08
32 29
26 13 12 10
31 30
25 14 15 16 17
24 21 20 18
Door
23 22
10
KNITTING SECTION
# Process definition:
Knitting is the interlocking of one or more yarns through a series of loops. The
length wise columns of stitches corresponding to the warp in woven cloth are called
Wales, the width wise rows of stitches corresponding to the weft are known as courses,
weft knits are those fabrics in which the courses are composed of a single strand of
yarn. While warp knits are those in which the Wales are composed of single strands of
yarns. Gauge corresponds to the yarn count in a woven fabric and is defined as the
number of needles or yarns, in ½ inches of cloth. The higher the gauges the more
compact finer the cloth.
# Process requirements:
In Jinnat Apparels Ltd. two types of machines are used for producing knitted
fabric. These are –
1. Circular Single Jersey m/c.
2. Circular Double Jersey m/c.
SPECIFICATION OF CIRCULAR KNITTING M/C.
M/c
Number
M/c.
Name
M/c. Type Dia
(inch)
Gauge No. of
Needles
No. of
Feeder
01 Mayer
& Cie
RELANIT-
3,2 II
30 28 2640 96
02 Mayer
& Cie
RELANIT-
3,2 II
36 24 2712 114
03 Mayer
& Cie
RELANIT-
3,2 II
36 24 2712 114
07 Mayer
& Cie
INOVIT
2,0 II
36 18 22016 74
08 Mayer
& Cie
INOVIT
2,0 II
36 18 22016 74
10 Mayer
& Cie
MBF 3,2 30 20 1872 96`
12 Terrot R.H 216 36 16 21800 64
13 Terrot R.H 216 36 16 21800 64
14 Mayer
& Cie
FV 2,0 34 18 21920 73
15 Mayer
& Cie
FV 2,0 34 18 21920 73
16 Mayer
& Cie
FV 2,0 34 18 21920 73
17 Mayer
& Cie
MBF 3,2 30 20 1872 96
18 Mayer
& Cie
MBF 3,2 30 20 1872 96
20 Mayer
& Cie
MBF 3,2 30 20 1872 96
21 Mayer
& Cie
OV 3,2 QC 30 22 22064 96
22 Mayer
& Cie
OV 3,2 QC 34 22 22340 96
23 Mayer
& Cie
OV 3,2 QC 34 22 22340 96
24 Mayer
& Cie
FV 2,0 30 16 21512 63
25 Mayer
& Cie
MBF 3,2 30 20 1872 96
26 Mayer
& Cie
MBF 3,2 30 20 1872 96
27 Mayer
& Cie
MBF 3,2 30 20 1872 96
28 Mayer
& Cie
FV 2,0 30 16 21512 62
29 Mayer
& Cie
FV 2,0 34 16 21704 72
30 Mayer
& Cie
FV 2,0 34 16 21704 72
31 Mayer
& Cie
FV 2,0 34 16 21704 72
32 Mayer
& Cie
FV 2,0 34 16 21704 72
CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE
Circular knitting m/cs. are widely used through out the knitting industry to
produce fabric. This m/c can be built in almost any reasonable diameter and the
small diameter of upto five, which are used for wear.
Machine for outerwear and under wear may vary from 12 inch to 60 inch
in diameter according to manufactures requirement. This m/c can be used either
as fabric or for making garments completely with fancy stitch. Latch needles are
commonly employed in all modern circular m/c because of their simple action
and also their ability to process more types of yarns.
Plain circular m/c uses only one sets of needles, circular rib m/c uses two
sets of needles i, e, Cylinder needle and Dial needle, the interlock circular
knitting m/c also uses two sets of needles by needles are long and short
respectively for both dial and cylinder, that is why multiple design and thick
fabric can be produce with that m/c. That m/c is also called double Jersey m/c.
 M/c. Gauge – needle/inch (varies according to diameter)
 Needle Type – Latch
 Needle bed type – Single cylinder, Double cylinder, Cylinder &
Dial, long or short needles for cylinder and dial.
 Two principle operation exist:
1. English system – Where the cams and yarns strands revolve by needle
and fabric take down is stationary.
2 American system – Where the needles and fabric take down revolves
by cams and yarn strands are stationary.
14
THE PROPERTIES OF RIB FABRICS AND SINGLE JERSEY OR PLAIN
FABRIC AND MACHINE
Plain fabric and m/c Rib fabric and m/c
1. Face side and Back side of fabric
are different
1. Face side and Backside of fabric
are same.
2. Less expensive 2. Expensive
3. Lighter fabric 3. Heavier fabric.
4. Produce by S/J m/c. 4. Produce by Double Jersey m/c.
5. The m/c. contains no Dial. 5. The m/c. contains Dial.
6. The m/c. contains Sinker 6. The m/c. contains no Sinker
7. The m/c. contains one set of
needle
7. The m/c. contains two set of
needle
8. Extensibility:
a) Length wise – 10 to 20%
b) Width wise – 30 to 40%
8. Extensibility:
c) Length wise – 50 to 80% (for
11 rib)
d) Width wise – 30 to 45% (for
11 rib)
9. Thickness & Warmth:
Thicker and wormier than plain
woven made from same yarn.
9. Thickness & Warmth:
Much thicker and wormier than
plain woven made from same yarn.
10. Curling:
Tendency to curl
10. Curling:
No tendency to curl
11. End use:
Ladies stocking, fine cardigan,
men and ladies dresses, sweater etc.
11. End use:
Socks, cuffs, warm outerwear,
under wear etc.
15
IMPORTANT PARTS PER MACHINE
Name of parts Number per machine
MPF Magnet 90
Knot catcher 90
Eye pot 90
Hose pipe 02
Needle fault detector 15
Oil nozzle 21
Oil pipe 21
Air flashing nozzle 30
0Air flashing pipe 30
Fabric detector 02
Main switch 01
Fabric light 01
Take down light 02
Oil & air pressure 02
RELATION AMONG YARN COUNT, GAUG, S.L. GREY GSM FINISHED
GSM & V.D.Q PULLEY (ACCORDING TO EXPERIMENT)
M/c
Gauge
Fabric
Type
Yarn
Count
Grey
GSM
Finishe
d GSM
Fabric
width
S.L.
(mm)
V.D.Q
16 22 Rib 34/2 165 250 36” 2.46 120
16 11 Rib 24/1 180 240 67” 2.75 160
20 H.Jersey 26/2 225 290 74” 2.60 180
18 11 Rib 24/1 182 240 71” 2.68 155
20 Fleece 26/1+16/1 220 300 70” 2.40 127
22 Interlock 34/1 165 220 63” 2.34 150
28 S/J
Lycra
30/1 160 220 64” 2.56 145
24 Double
Lacost
26/1 145 220 100” 2.70 125
16 21 Rib 26/1 135 220 36” 2.35 120
PRODUCTION CALCULATION
1. Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency:
countYarn
mmSLNeedleofNoFeederofNoRPM



2046.28403654.210
1260)(..
countYarn
mmSLNeedleofNoFeederofNoRPM



80.3527
)(..
2. Production/shift in meter:
100/
1260.
/
.min/




cmCourse
EfficiencyFeederofNoRPM
cmCourse
Course
3. Fabric width in meter:
100/
.
100/
.




cmWales
knittingNeedlesofnoTotal
cmWales
walesofnoTotal
17
IMOPORTANT EQUIPMENT OF CIRCULAR KNITTING M/C
1. START/STOP/INCH BUTTONS:
Complete set of easily accessible start/stop/inch buttons at top in each leg.
2. RATCHET LEVER:
Permit hand movement of the M/C.
3. AUTO STOP MOTION:
Automatic three stages 24v yarn motion, positive feed tapes & knitting
zone. Indicator lamps are on individual stop motions & on the main
control panel. While the yarn is broken we can find the location which is
broken as well as to repair, meanwhile the motor can brake and stop
operation at once to keep the security of M/C.
4. FREE STANDING SIDE CREEL:
With an active reserve package for each feed.
5. AUTO–COUNTER:
Two shift revolution with display counter with predetermined stop, to
settle freely the weight or yardage of fabric.
6. VARIABLE SPEED DRIVE WITH M/C BRAKE:
Transistor inverter provided for free controlled, the process of “V.s.
motor-drive” from slow operation to normal operation is quite & fast
brake to prevent damages in case of needles or yarn breakage.
18
7. FABRIC TAKE UP SYSTEM:
With variable speed control by a belt drive set can be adjusted the speed
for different course of fabric-constant and uniform fabric tension.
8. SAFETY GUARD SWITCH:
Machine cannot be started with guards open; this guards have reinforced
fibreglass window for easy fabric inspection.
9. AUTO LUBRICATION:
The automatic central pressurized oil sprayer can be adjusted at cycling
time and quantity to make cylinder, dial, sinker ring’s cam, needles and
sinkers lubricated enough, besides it has the function cooling and clearing.
10. AUTO-LINE REMOVAL SYSTEMS:
Three fans on each rotating arm for clearing off any dust of creel and
knitting zone.
RAW MATERIAL USED
Material (Yarn) Count Type Color
Cotton (100%) 24/1 Carded Grey
Cotton (100%) 26/1 Combed Purple
Cotton (100%) 26/1 Carded Grey
Cotton (100%) 30/1 Combed Grey
Cotton (100%) 34/2 Combed Avg.
Cotton (100%) 16/1 Carded Grey
Cotton (100%) 34/1 Combed Grey
Lycra (100%) 20D
FABRIC WEIGHT (G.S.M.) SETTING
M/c. Gauge Yarn count F/Dia in inch GSM
(Grey state)
16 24/1 31 170
28 30/1 32 150
24 26/1 50 145
16 26/1 19 135
16 34/2 19 165
16 24/1 33.5 180
20 26/1 37 225
18 24/1 35.5 182
20 26/1 35 220
22 34/1 31.5 165
G.S.M. CONTROL:
1. Major control by quality pulley.
2. Minor control by stitch length adjustment.
NECESSARY INFORMATION
1. G.S.M.:
It is technical term that indicates the weight of the fabric per square meter.
2. Changing of G.S.M.:
The GSM of the fabric is change by altering the position of the tension pulley. If
pulley move towards the positive direction then the GSM is decrease and in the reverse
direction GSM will increase.
3. Points that should consider incase of g.s.m. Changing:
i) Tension pulley
ii) Cam position
iii) Take up motion
4. Factors that should be changed incase of fabric design on quality change:
i) Cam setting
ii) Tension pulley
iii) Set of needle
iv) Size of the loop shape
5. Recommendable points of a buyer:
i) Dia of the fabric
ii) Design of the fabric
iii) GSM of the fabric
iv) Total wt. of the fabric
v) Yarn count
vi) Types of yarn
vii) Color of the fabric
21
6. Gauge number that are usually seen in different m/c:
i) Incase of rib m/c. 16 to 18 G are normally used. But incase of improved
quality yarn 20G M/cs are used in European country.
ii) Single jersey m/c are normally found 20,24,28etc. Gauges.
7. Relation between yarn count and m/c gauge seen in different m/c.:
We know,
G2
Ne =-------------
18
Where, Ne = English Cotton Count
G = M/c. gauge.
8. Maximum and minimum g.s.m. Of a fabric for a particular yarn:
Types of m/c Yarn count Maximum GSM Minimum GSM
Single Jersey m/c 20/1 240 120
Single Jersey m/c 30/1 165 100
Rib m/c 20/1 380 190
Rib m/c 30/1 180 130
9. Chemical that used in needle, sinker or m/c cleaning:
i) Needle and sinker: Petrol + Needle oil mixture.
ii) Cylinder: At first wash with petrol and finally wash with needle oil.
10. Oil require per hour for each m/c:
More than one liter.
22
11. Production per shift for each m/c:
Types of
fabric
Yarn count Hours M/c. R.P.M. Fabric wt.
(kg)
Single Jersey 30 12 30 145
Single Jersey 20 12 30 200
Rib 30 12 20-25 180
Rib 20 12 20-25 250
12. Weight losses after finish the fabric:
6-7% weight losses on the basis of whole wt.
13. Weight increases per square meter after finish the fabric:
15-16% weight increases per square meter.
23
WORKING PARTICULARS
1. Working hours: Two shift each of 12 hours.
# M/c cleaning and maintenance at the time of shift running
# M/c cooling at lunch hour
2. Type of fabric produced:
Single Jersey, Single pique polo, lacost, honeycomb, rib, fleece and many others
designed fabrics.
3. Needle breaks: 4.5 Nos./day 13 machine.
Needle breakage occurs mainly due to which yarn supply. M/cs automation
system can minimize the higher breakage rate. Also operator’s negligence, worn m/c
set up and wrong handling may cause more needle breakage.
4. Adjusting points of the knitting machine:
a) Feeder to needle (horizontal distance, 1 to 2 sinker thickness)
b) Feeder to needle (vertical distance, by feeder adjustment or by dia height
adjustment)
c) Dial to Cylinder distance.
d) Sinker groove to Cylinder groove.
e) Tension and loop length.
f) Yarn tension adjustment.
g) Adjustable speed in motor driving shaft.
h) Change pinion in take up roller to perform tension.
24
5. Auto stop motion in knitting machine:
a) Gate open
b) Needle breakage
c) Motor drive fault
d) Yarn input
e) Yarn output
f) Oil air problem
g) Target
h) Photo electric cell
6. Wastage of the factory:
a) Empty cartoon or yarn
b) Yarn and fabric wastage due to packing pin marks, yarn irregularity, reconing,
knotting, recreeling of new package on the knitting m/c, threading of knitting elements.
c) Drop out loops, broken needles, stripe effect, lack of supervision and worker’s
negligence.
7. Maintenance:
3 to 4 months gap between two maintenance.
25
METHODS OF INCREASING PRODUCTION
By the following methods the production can be increased –
1. By increasing m/c speed:
Higher the m/c speed faster the movement of needle and ultimately production
will be increased.
2. By increasing the number of feeder:
If the number of feeder is increased in the circumference of cylinder, then the
number of courses will be increased in one revolution at a time.
3. By increasing cam angle:
By increasing cam angle production is increased.
4. By imposing automation in the m/c:
a) Quick starting & stopping for efficient driving system.
b) Automatic m/c lubrication system for smoother operation.
c) Photo electric fabric fault detector.
5. By imposing other developments:
a) Using creel-feeding system.
b) Applying yarn supply through plastic tube that eliminates the
possibilities of yarn damage.
c) Using yarn feed control device.
d) Using auto lint removal.
26
CAUSES OF LOOP LENGTH VARIATION
1. Fluctuation in yarn variable:
a) Due to count variation.
b) Due to twist variation.
c) Due to insufficient M.C. or M.R.
d) Due to package hardness.
e) If frictional property of yarn is not maintained.
2. Fluctuation in m/c variable:
a) If temperature of the m/c is not standard.
b) If m/c gauge is not accurate.
c) If m/c cam setting is not properly maintained.
d) If needle timing and knock over is not accurate.
e) If take down tension is wrong.
f) If sinker timing is not correct.
g) Improper yarn tension.
3. Robbing back:
Due to 15% of yarn robbed back from old loop to newly formed loop.
27
CONTROL OF FABRIC QUALITY
Control of the quality of the cloth being knitted is the knitter mechanic’s major
responsibility. Fabric set-ups and m/c maintenance, although necessary, must be put
into their proper order of importers. To set-up a fabric and run it on a well-maintained
m/c, when its quality is questionable, is senseless.
The mechanic must be able to diagnose a problem on a m/c and render an
immediate cure. To do this, he must have a thorough knowledge of what causes a
defect in fabric. When the cause is known, correction will soon follow.
FABRIC DEFECTS:
Defects in circular knitted cloth fall into the following major groups: vertical
lines, barre, holes and snags, tuck or double stitches, these will be discussed seriatim.
 Vertical lines:
This defects can be caused by defective needles or defective trick walls. If the
trick walls are worn or not evenly spaced, the needles will knit at different speed. This
uneven movement of the needles will cause uneven stitches which is turn can cause
vertical lines.
If a wall is too big for the needle, the needle will have a sideward motion, which
will cause formation of a wide wale in the fabric. When the trick walls are not evenly
spaced, the needles will knit a certain points wide and narrow stitches in the fabric.
These will also cause unsightly lines.
Dirt may often get into the tricks pushing the needles outwards (cylinder) or
upward (dial) causing irregular vertical stitches. Bent and worn needles will cause the
fabric to have wider Wales in certain places.
Needles with chipped latches, butts, hooks, cheeks, a protruding rivet or broken
spoons will cause fuzzy and irregular vertical lines. Needles with bent latches will
cause vertical tears or ladders in the fabric. Too much lubrication or the use of
improper needle oil often causes oil or dirt strakes.
28
Dark black vertical lines may be caused by dirty tricks, which cause the needles
to run high and rub against the cams. Not enough lubrication may also be the cause of
black vertical lines.
 Barre or uneven courses:
The following may cause these faults :
1. Improper cam adjustment,
2. Uneven yarn tension,
3. Different yarn thickness or shaded yarn dyes,
4. Dial not in even relationship to cylinder and
5. Defective take down mechanism
With the use of positive feeding devices, the stitch cam adjustment is
Very accurate. The most important thing to remember when adjusting stitch cams is to
keep the ratio of the dial stitch to the cylinder stitch the same at all the dial and
cylinder feeds.
It must be remember that a positive feed system (tape) will feed the same
amount of yarn to all feeds regardless of stitch adjustment. This stitch adjustment
controls the tension only.
In the case of pique fabric or any similar kind, the odd feeds must be done at the
same tension, but the even form the odd feeds so long as they are all the same. We
know now that the yarn tension will control the length of stitch.
It is very important that any surfaces that the yarn runs over or through mist be
clean of any instruction which will caused irregular tension.
A defective takes down mechanism which pulls tight and then soft will cause are
as on the fabric to be loose and tight. The take down mechanism must pull evenly at all
times to maintain a fabric with even courses.
29
If dial is not in the proper relationship to the cylinder, fabric of uneven stitch
length will produced. The dial and cylinder relationship should be inspective at least
once a year to maintain proper running conditions.
Uneven thickness of the yarn is one of major causes of barre. The mechanic is
really helpless in the situation. The only thing he can do is to learn to recognize this
condition and notify the throwster immediately.
Badly wound yarn also will cause uneven tension. In most cases a positive feed
system will eliminate this defect, but if one used the mechanic should have the yarn
rewound. In the case of dyed yarn shaded the mechanic is helpless in such a situation,
he must notify the throwster immediately.
 Holes and Snags:
Holes in most cases are caused by excessive tension of the yarn. If stitch cams
are adjusted too deep and there is excessive tension in the yarn, it wills beak, causing a
hole. If the dial height is too high these will also cause a tremendous strain on the yarn.
Other factors that produce excessive tension on the stitch are as follows:
1. Too tight a take down pup,
2. The positive feed system operating improperly,
3. Badly wound yarn,
4. Yarn with thin or weak spots.
5. Dirty or clogged surface in which the yarn passes through or on,
6. Yarn warp around.
Snags in most cases are usually caused by badly wound yarn which at
a low tensions and then suddenly jerks and runs at a high tension. This high tension
wills usually a line of holes from one to nine inches.
30
 Drop Stitches:
This defect occurs when the needle tails to take new yarn of when the needle
fails to take new yarn or when the needle losses its loop.
One of the major causes of this problem is an improperly set yarn carrier. If the
yarn is not fed directly into the hook of the needle, there is a good chance that the
needle will not take the new yarn.
If the stitch cam is set too far back there will be too much yarn is the needle
loop. Because of this loop will be so loose that it can fall causing a drop stitch.
Other possible causes of droop stitches are: the take down mechanism is too
loose, not enough tension on yarn, dial height too high, needles, yarn in wrong hole of
the carrier, dial needle latch closing under yarn carrier and dial needle latch closing
near the hole of the carrier.
 Tuck Stitches or Double Stitches:
This defect occurs when the needle does not cast off its old loop. In most cases
this defect can be traced to an improperly set stitch cam.
If the needle is not drown far enough back the old loop will remain on the
needle. On the other hand, if the stitch cam is set too far back, too much yarn will be
going to needle. In this case this needle will be unable to knock over such a large loop.
Other possible causes of Tuck Stitches are as follows:
1. Take down mechanism set too loose,
2. Needles move too freely in their slots,
3. Dial height set too low,
4. Defective needles,
5. Needle trick walls clogged with dirt etc.
STITCH NOTATION, CAM
ARRANGEMENT
&
NEEDLE REPEAT
OF
SOME KNITTED FABRIC
32
FABRIC NAME: SINGLE LACOST
1. Stitch Notation:
   
   
   
   
   
Fig. Looping diagram
2. Cam arrangement & Needle arrangement:
i) Using two track cam:
K K K T K
K T K K K
ii) Using three truck cam:
K K K T K
K T K K K
K K K T K
ii) Using four truck cam:
K K K T K
K T K K K
K K K T K
K T K K K
Fig.- Cam arrangement Fig.- Needle arrangement
33
FABRIC NAME: DOUBLE LACOST
1
2
1
2
3
1
2
3
4
 = Knit stitch
 = Tuck stitch
K = Knit cam
T = Tuck cam
1 = 1 Butt Needle
2 = 2 Butt Needle
3 = 3 Butt Needle
4 = 4 Butt Needle
1. Stitch Notation:
   
   
   
   
   
   
Fig. Looping diagram
2. Cam arrangement & Needle arrangement:
i) Using two track cam:
K K K K T T
K T T K K K
ii) Using three truck cam:
K K K K T T
K T T K K K
K K K K T T
ii) Using four truck cam:
K K K K T T
K T T K K K
K K K K T T
K T T K K K
Fig.- Cam arrangement Fig.- Needle arrangement
34
FABRIC NAME: SINGLE JERSEY
 = Knit stitch
 = Tuck stitch
K = Knit cam
T = Tuck cam
1 = 1 Butt Needle
2 = 2 Butt Needle
3 = 3 Butt Needle
4 = 4 Butt Needle
1
2
1
2
3
1
2
3
4
1. Stitch Notation:
   
   
   
   
   
Fig. Looping diagram
2. Cam arrangement & Needle arrangement:
i) Using two track cam:
K K K K K
K K K K K
ii) Using three truck cam:
K K K K K
K K K K K
K K K K K
ii) Using four truck cam:
K K K K K
K K K K K
K K K K K
K K K K K
Fig.- Cam arrangement Fig.- Needle arrangement
35
FABRIC PRODUCED IN J.A.L.
1
2
1
2
3
1
2
3
4
 = Knit stitch
K = Knit cam
1 = 1 Butt Needle
2 = 2 Butt Needle
3 = 3 Butt Needle
4 = 4 Butt Needle
Fabrics name Yarn composition GSM SAMPLE
Heavy Jersey 26/2Ne 225
11 Rib 24/1Ne 180
21 Rib 26/1Ne 135
22 Rib(2 ply) 34/2Ne 165
Single Lacost 24/1Ne 170
Double Lacost 26/1Ne 145
Interlock 34/1Ne 165
Fleece 26/1Ne + 16/1Ne 220
S/J Lycra 30/1Ne + 20D 160
36
CONCLUSION
College of Textile Technology has given me the field to perform the industrial
attachment with Jinnat Apparels Ltd. This attachment seems to me as a bridge to
minimize the gap between theoretical and practical knowledge. Undoubtedly, this
attachment paved us the way to learn more about Textile Technology, industrial
practices, and industrial management and production process. Besides this attachment
gave us the first opportunity to work in an Industry and acquainted us with the internal
sight and sound of Textile Industries. I believe with all these, the experience of the
industrial attachment will help our future life as a Textile Technologist.
---0---
37
UNIVERSITY OF DHAKA
REPORT ON
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
15TH
FEBRUARY TO 15TH
MARCH 2003
WITH
JINNAT APPARELS LTD.
KASHIMPUR, GAZIPUR
SUPERVISING TEACHER
MOMINUL ALAM
LECTURER (TECH)
COLLEGE OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY
TEJGAON, DHAKA
SUBMITTED BY
MOHAMMAD ZAHIRUL HAQUE
EXAM ROLL # 09
REG. NO # 2064
SESSION – 1997-98
COLLEGE OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY
TEJGAON, DHAKA
01
UNIVERSITY OF DHAKA
REPORT ON
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
15TH
FEBRUARY TO 15TH
MARCH 2003
WITH
JINNAT APPARELS LTD.
KASHIMPUR, GAZIPUR
SUPERVISING TEACHER
MOMINUL ALAM
LECTURER (TECH)
COLLEGE OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY
TEJGAON, DHAKA
SUBMITTED BY
MOHAMMAD KAMRUZZAMAN
EXAM ROLL # 25
REG. NO # 2081
SESSION – 1997-98
COLLEGE OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY
TEJGAON, DHAKA
01
UNIVERSITY OF DHAKA
REPORT ON
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
15TH
FEBRUARY TO 15TH
MARCH 2003
WITH
JINNAT APPARELS LTD.
KASHIMPUR, GAZIPUR
SUPERVISING TEACHER
MOMINUL ALAM
LECTURER (TECH)
COLLEGE OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY
TEJGAON, DHAKA
SUBMITTED BY
MD. ZOHIRUL HAQUE KHAN
EXAM. ROLL # 70
MOHAMMAD ZAHIRUL HAQUE
EXAM. ROLL # 09
MOHAMMAD KAMRUZZAMAN
EXAM. ROLL # 25
SESSION – 1997-98
COLLEGE OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY
TEJGAON, DHAKA
01

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Industrial Attachment of Jinnat apparels ltd

  • 1. SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY Department of Textile Engineering 251/A&252, tejgaon, I/A Dhaka-1208 Dhaka, Bangladesh JINNAT APPARELS LTD
  • 2. CONTENT ACKNOWLEDGEMENT………………………………………….. 03 INTRODUCTION …………………………………………………. 04 JINNAT APPARELS LTD…………………………………………. 05 LOCATION OF THE MILL ……………………………………….. 07 ORGANIZATION STRUCTURE OF J.A.L...………….………….. 08 PROCESS FLOW CHART OF KNITTING………………………... 09 LAY OUT PLAN OF THE KNITTING SECTION ……………….. 10 KNITTING SECTION ……………………………………………… 11 SPECIFICATION OF CIRCULAR KNITTING M/C. …………..…. 12 CIRCULAR KNITTING M/C……………………………………….. 14 PRODUCTION CALCULATION ………………………………….. 17 IMOPORTANT EQUIPMENT OF CIRCULAR KNITTING M/C…. 18 NECESSARY INFORMATION ………………………………….…. 21 METHODS OF INCREASING PRODUCTION …………………..... 25 CAUSES OF LOOP LENTH VARIATION ………………………… 27 CONTROL OF FABRIC QUALITY ………………………………... 28 STITCH NOTATION, CAM ARRANGEMENT & NEEDLE REPEAT OF SOME KNITTED FABRICS …………………………. 32 FABICS PRODUCED IN JAL …………………………………….... 36 CONCLUSION …………………………………………………...….. 37
  • 3. INTRODUCTION Industrial attachment is an essential part of 4-years B.Sc. in Textile Technology course of southeast university . I had the opportunity to perform the industrial attachment with Jinnat Apparels Ltd. During 45 days long attachment, I studied the man, machines, material aspects of the circular knitting section, quality control section, planning section, grey fabric inspection section and finished fabric inspection section of the mill.I also had a short visit in the garments section of the factory. According to my studies there I have prepared the following report and would like to present.
  • 4. 05
  • 5. JINNAT APPARELS LTD. Jinnat Apparels Ltd. is equipped with circular knitting and finishing. It produces fine quality and blended knit fabrics in a variety of styles. Jerseys, rib, piques and other single knit textures are all available. Current production in tubular and open width exceeds 7 tons per day. Fabric weight from 150 to 260 GSM in styles which include jersey, pique and fabric with Lycra. JINNAT APPARELS LTD. (JAL) AT A GLANCE 1. Name of the project : JINNAT APPARELS LTD. (JAL) 2. Project proponent : DBL Group of industries. 3. Location : Sardaganj, Kashimpur, Gazipur. 4. Communication : The project is easily accessible by road. 5. Product name : Knitted goods. 6. Plant capacity : 2500 tons per year. 7. Amount land : 60 Bigha 8. No. of employees : About 2200
  • 6. LOCATION OF THE MILL Jinnat Apparels Ltd. is situated at Sardaganj, Kashimpur, Gazipur. It is located at the East Side of Nabinagar-Kaliakair road and about 45 km away from southeast university , Tejgaon, Dhaka. # Site location of JAL: Kaliakair Sripur Bustand Kashimpur Bazar E.P.Z Abdullahpur Nabinagar Ashulia N W E S Southeast university
  • 7. TYPE OF MILL JAL is horizontally integrated type of mill, where processing started from knitting to packing. 07 EXISTING ORGANIZATIONAL STRUCTURE GM Garments Manager Manager P.M. – 1 PM - 4 P.O. – 1 Q.C. Manager – 8 Supervisor – 4 Supervisor – 56 Worker – 100 Line chief – 16 Line Quality Controller – 32 Operator Worker – 2000 Knitting
  • 8. 08 PROCESS FLOW CHART OF KNITTING Yarn in cone form Feeding the yarn cone in the creel Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip-tape positive feeding arrangement and tension device Knitting Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting Numbering Inspection
  • 9. LAY OUT PLAN OF KNITTING SECTION OF J.A.L. Inspection Compressor room 28 01 02 03 Toilet Office Store 27 07 08 32 29 26 13 12 10 31 30 25 14 15 16 17 24 21 20 18 Door 23 22
  • 10. 10 KNITTING SECTION # Process definition: Knitting is the interlocking of one or more yarns through a series of loops. The length wise columns of stitches corresponding to the warp in woven cloth are called Wales, the width wise rows of stitches corresponding to the weft are known as courses, weft knits are those fabrics in which the courses are composed of a single strand of yarn. While warp knits are those in which the Wales are composed of single strands of yarns. Gauge corresponds to the yarn count in a woven fabric and is defined as the number of needles or yarns, in ½ inches of cloth. The higher the gauges the more compact finer the cloth. # Process requirements: In Jinnat Apparels Ltd. two types of machines are used for producing knitted fabric. These are – 1. Circular Single Jersey m/c. 2. Circular Double Jersey m/c.
  • 11. SPECIFICATION OF CIRCULAR KNITTING M/C. M/c Number M/c. Name M/c. Type Dia (inch) Gauge No. of Needles No. of Feeder 01 Mayer & Cie RELANIT- 3,2 II 30 28 2640 96 02 Mayer & Cie RELANIT- 3,2 II 36 24 2712 114 03 Mayer & Cie RELANIT- 3,2 II 36 24 2712 114 07 Mayer & Cie INOVIT 2,0 II 36 18 22016 74 08 Mayer & Cie INOVIT 2,0 II 36 18 22016 74 10 Mayer & Cie MBF 3,2 30 20 1872 96` 12 Terrot R.H 216 36 16 21800 64 13 Terrot R.H 216 36 16 21800 64 14 Mayer & Cie FV 2,0 34 18 21920 73 15 Mayer & Cie FV 2,0 34 18 21920 73 16 Mayer & Cie FV 2,0 34 18 21920 73 17 Mayer & Cie MBF 3,2 30 20 1872 96 18 Mayer & Cie MBF 3,2 30 20 1872 96 20 Mayer & Cie MBF 3,2 30 20 1872 96 21 Mayer & Cie OV 3,2 QC 30 22 22064 96 22 Mayer & Cie OV 3,2 QC 34 22 22340 96
  • 12. 23 Mayer & Cie OV 3,2 QC 34 22 22340 96 24 Mayer & Cie FV 2,0 30 16 21512 63 25 Mayer & Cie MBF 3,2 30 20 1872 96 26 Mayer & Cie MBF 3,2 30 20 1872 96 27 Mayer & Cie MBF 3,2 30 20 1872 96 28 Mayer & Cie FV 2,0 30 16 21512 62 29 Mayer & Cie FV 2,0 34 16 21704 72 30 Mayer & Cie FV 2,0 34 16 21704 72 31 Mayer & Cie FV 2,0 34 16 21704 72 32 Mayer & Cie FV 2,0 34 16 21704 72
  • 13. CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE Circular knitting m/cs. are widely used through out the knitting industry to produce fabric. This m/c can be built in almost any reasonable diameter and the small diameter of upto five, which are used for wear. Machine for outerwear and under wear may vary from 12 inch to 60 inch in diameter according to manufactures requirement. This m/c can be used either as fabric or for making garments completely with fancy stitch. Latch needles are commonly employed in all modern circular m/c because of their simple action and also their ability to process more types of yarns. Plain circular m/c uses only one sets of needles, circular rib m/c uses two sets of needles i, e, Cylinder needle and Dial needle, the interlock circular knitting m/c also uses two sets of needles by needles are long and short respectively for both dial and cylinder, that is why multiple design and thick fabric can be produce with that m/c. That m/c is also called double Jersey m/c.  M/c. Gauge – needle/inch (varies according to diameter)  Needle Type – Latch  Needle bed type – Single cylinder, Double cylinder, Cylinder & Dial, long or short needles for cylinder and dial.  Two principle operation exist: 1. English system – Where the cams and yarns strands revolve by needle and fabric take down is stationary. 2 American system – Where the needles and fabric take down revolves by cams and yarn strands are stationary.
  • 14. 14 THE PROPERTIES OF RIB FABRICS AND SINGLE JERSEY OR PLAIN FABRIC AND MACHINE Plain fabric and m/c Rib fabric and m/c 1. Face side and Back side of fabric are different 1. Face side and Backside of fabric are same. 2. Less expensive 2. Expensive 3. Lighter fabric 3. Heavier fabric. 4. Produce by S/J m/c. 4. Produce by Double Jersey m/c. 5. The m/c. contains no Dial. 5. The m/c. contains Dial. 6. The m/c. contains Sinker 6. The m/c. contains no Sinker 7. The m/c. contains one set of needle 7. The m/c. contains two set of needle 8. Extensibility: a) Length wise – 10 to 20% b) Width wise – 30 to 40% 8. Extensibility: c) Length wise – 50 to 80% (for 11 rib) d) Width wise – 30 to 45% (for 11 rib) 9. Thickness & Warmth: Thicker and wormier than plain woven made from same yarn. 9. Thickness & Warmth: Much thicker and wormier than plain woven made from same yarn. 10. Curling: Tendency to curl 10. Curling: No tendency to curl 11. End use: Ladies stocking, fine cardigan, men and ladies dresses, sweater etc. 11. End use: Socks, cuffs, warm outerwear, under wear etc.
  • 15. 15 IMPORTANT PARTS PER MACHINE Name of parts Number per machine MPF Magnet 90 Knot catcher 90 Eye pot 90 Hose pipe 02 Needle fault detector 15 Oil nozzle 21 Oil pipe 21 Air flashing nozzle 30 0Air flashing pipe 30 Fabric detector 02 Main switch 01 Fabric light 01 Take down light 02 Oil & air pressure 02 RELATION AMONG YARN COUNT, GAUG, S.L. GREY GSM FINISHED GSM & V.D.Q PULLEY (ACCORDING TO EXPERIMENT) M/c Gauge Fabric Type Yarn Count Grey GSM Finishe d GSM Fabric width S.L. (mm) V.D.Q 16 22 Rib 34/2 165 250 36” 2.46 120 16 11 Rib 24/1 180 240 67” 2.75 160 20 H.Jersey 26/2 225 290 74” 2.60 180 18 11 Rib 24/1 182 240 71” 2.68 155 20 Fleece 26/1+16/1 220 300 70” 2.40 127 22 Interlock 34/1 165 220 63” 2.34 150 28 S/J Lycra 30/1 160 220 64” 2.56 145 24 Double Lacost 26/1 145 220 100” 2.70 125 16 21 Rib 26/1 135 220 36” 2.35 120
  • 16. PRODUCTION CALCULATION 1. Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency: countYarn mmSLNeedleofNoFeederofNoRPM    2046.28403654.210 1260)(.. countYarn mmSLNeedleofNoFeederofNoRPM    80.3527 )(.. 2. Production/shift in meter: 100/ 1260. / .min/     cmCourse EfficiencyFeederofNoRPM cmCourse Course 3. Fabric width in meter: 100/ . 100/ .     cmWales knittingNeedlesofnoTotal cmWales walesofnoTotal 17
  • 17. IMOPORTANT EQUIPMENT OF CIRCULAR KNITTING M/C 1. START/STOP/INCH BUTTONS: Complete set of easily accessible start/stop/inch buttons at top in each leg. 2. RATCHET LEVER: Permit hand movement of the M/C. 3. AUTO STOP MOTION: Automatic three stages 24v yarn motion, positive feed tapes & knitting zone. Indicator lamps are on individual stop motions & on the main control panel. While the yarn is broken we can find the location which is broken as well as to repair, meanwhile the motor can brake and stop operation at once to keep the security of M/C. 4. FREE STANDING SIDE CREEL: With an active reserve package for each feed. 5. AUTO–COUNTER: Two shift revolution with display counter with predetermined stop, to settle freely the weight or yardage of fabric. 6. VARIABLE SPEED DRIVE WITH M/C BRAKE: Transistor inverter provided for free controlled, the process of “V.s. motor-drive” from slow operation to normal operation is quite & fast brake to prevent damages in case of needles or yarn breakage. 18 7. FABRIC TAKE UP SYSTEM: With variable speed control by a belt drive set can be adjusted the speed for different course of fabric-constant and uniform fabric tension.
  • 18. 8. SAFETY GUARD SWITCH: Machine cannot be started with guards open; this guards have reinforced fibreglass window for easy fabric inspection. 9. AUTO LUBRICATION: The automatic central pressurized oil sprayer can be adjusted at cycling time and quantity to make cylinder, dial, sinker ring’s cam, needles and sinkers lubricated enough, besides it has the function cooling and clearing. 10. AUTO-LINE REMOVAL SYSTEMS: Three fans on each rotating arm for clearing off any dust of creel and knitting zone. RAW MATERIAL USED Material (Yarn) Count Type Color Cotton (100%) 24/1 Carded Grey Cotton (100%) 26/1 Combed Purple Cotton (100%) 26/1 Carded Grey Cotton (100%) 30/1 Combed Grey Cotton (100%) 34/2 Combed Avg. Cotton (100%) 16/1 Carded Grey Cotton (100%) 34/1 Combed Grey Lycra (100%) 20D
  • 19. FABRIC WEIGHT (G.S.M.) SETTING M/c. Gauge Yarn count F/Dia in inch GSM (Grey state) 16 24/1 31 170 28 30/1 32 150 24 26/1 50 145 16 26/1 19 135 16 34/2 19 165 16 24/1 33.5 180 20 26/1 37 225 18 24/1 35.5 182 20 26/1 35 220 22 34/1 31.5 165 G.S.M. CONTROL: 1. Major control by quality pulley. 2. Minor control by stitch length adjustment. NECESSARY INFORMATION 1. G.S.M.: It is technical term that indicates the weight of the fabric per square meter. 2. Changing of G.S.M.: The GSM of the fabric is change by altering the position of the tension pulley. If pulley move towards the positive direction then the GSM is decrease and in the reverse direction GSM will increase. 3. Points that should consider incase of g.s.m. Changing: i) Tension pulley ii) Cam position iii) Take up motion
  • 20. 4. Factors that should be changed incase of fabric design on quality change: i) Cam setting ii) Tension pulley iii) Set of needle iv) Size of the loop shape 5. Recommendable points of a buyer: i) Dia of the fabric ii) Design of the fabric iii) GSM of the fabric iv) Total wt. of the fabric v) Yarn count vi) Types of yarn vii) Color of the fabric 21 6. Gauge number that are usually seen in different m/c: i) Incase of rib m/c. 16 to 18 G are normally used. But incase of improved quality yarn 20G M/cs are used in European country. ii) Single jersey m/c are normally found 20,24,28etc. Gauges. 7. Relation between yarn count and m/c gauge seen in different m/c.: We know, G2 Ne =------------- 18 Where, Ne = English Cotton Count G = M/c. gauge.
  • 21. 8. Maximum and minimum g.s.m. Of a fabric for a particular yarn: Types of m/c Yarn count Maximum GSM Minimum GSM Single Jersey m/c 20/1 240 120 Single Jersey m/c 30/1 165 100 Rib m/c 20/1 380 190 Rib m/c 30/1 180 130 9. Chemical that used in needle, sinker or m/c cleaning: i) Needle and sinker: Petrol + Needle oil mixture. ii) Cylinder: At first wash with petrol and finally wash with needle oil. 10. Oil require per hour for each m/c: More than one liter. 22 11. Production per shift for each m/c: Types of fabric Yarn count Hours M/c. R.P.M. Fabric wt. (kg) Single Jersey 30 12 30 145 Single Jersey 20 12 30 200 Rib 30 12 20-25 180 Rib 20 12 20-25 250 12. Weight losses after finish the fabric: 6-7% weight losses on the basis of whole wt. 13. Weight increases per square meter after finish the fabric: 15-16% weight increases per square meter.
  • 22. 23 WORKING PARTICULARS 1. Working hours: Two shift each of 12 hours. # M/c cleaning and maintenance at the time of shift running # M/c cooling at lunch hour 2. Type of fabric produced: Single Jersey, Single pique polo, lacost, honeycomb, rib, fleece and many others designed fabrics. 3. Needle breaks: 4.5 Nos./day 13 machine. Needle breakage occurs mainly due to which yarn supply. M/cs automation system can minimize the higher breakage rate. Also operator’s negligence, worn m/c set up and wrong handling may cause more needle breakage. 4. Adjusting points of the knitting machine: a) Feeder to needle (horizontal distance, 1 to 2 sinker thickness) b) Feeder to needle (vertical distance, by feeder adjustment or by dia height adjustment) c) Dial to Cylinder distance. d) Sinker groove to Cylinder groove. e) Tension and loop length. f) Yarn tension adjustment. g) Adjustable speed in motor driving shaft. h) Change pinion in take up roller to perform tension.
  • 23. 24 5. Auto stop motion in knitting machine: a) Gate open b) Needle breakage c) Motor drive fault d) Yarn input e) Yarn output f) Oil air problem g) Target h) Photo electric cell 6. Wastage of the factory: a) Empty cartoon or yarn b) Yarn and fabric wastage due to packing pin marks, yarn irregularity, reconing, knotting, recreeling of new package on the knitting m/c, threading of knitting elements. c) Drop out loops, broken needles, stripe effect, lack of supervision and worker’s negligence. 7. Maintenance: 3 to 4 months gap between two maintenance. 25
  • 24. METHODS OF INCREASING PRODUCTION By the following methods the production can be increased – 1. By increasing m/c speed: Higher the m/c speed faster the movement of needle and ultimately production will be increased. 2. By increasing the number of feeder: If the number of feeder is increased in the circumference of cylinder, then the number of courses will be increased in one revolution at a time. 3. By increasing cam angle: By increasing cam angle production is increased. 4. By imposing automation in the m/c: a) Quick starting & stopping for efficient driving system. b) Automatic m/c lubrication system for smoother operation. c) Photo electric fabric fault detector. 5. By imposing other developments: a) Using creel-feeding system. b) Applying yarn supply through plastic tube that eliminates the possibilities of yarn damage. c) Using yarn feed control device. d) Using auto lint removal. 26 CAUSES OF LOOP LENGTH VARIATION 1. Fluctuation in yarn variable: a) Due to count variation. b) Due to twist variation. c) Due to insufficient M.C. or M.R. d) Due to package hardness. e) If frictional property of yarn is not maintained. 2. Fluctuation in m/c variable: a) If temperature of the m/c is not standard.
  • 25. b) If m/c gauge is not accurate. c) If m/c cam setting is not properly maintained. d) If needle timing and knock over is not accurate. e) If take down tension is wrong. f) If sinker timing is not correct. g) Improper yarn tension. 3. Robbing back: Due to 15% of yarn robbed back from old loop to newly formed loop. 27 CONTROL OF FABRIC QUALITY Control of the quality of the cloth being knitted is the knitter mechanic’s major responsibility. Fabric set-ups and m/c maintenance, although necessary, must be put into their proper order of importers. To set-up a fabric and run it on a well-maintained m/c, when its quality is questionable, is senseless. The mechanic must be able to diagnose a problem on a m/c and render an immediate cure. To do this, he must have a thorough knowledge of what causes a defect in fabric. When the cause is known, correction will soon follow. FABRIC DEFECTS: Defects in circular knitted cloth fall into the following major groups: vertical lines, barre, holes and snags, tuck or double stitches, these will be discussed seriatim.  Vertical lines: This defects can be caused by defective needles or defective trick walls. If the trick walls are worn or not evenly spaced, the needles will knit at different speed. This uneven movement of the needles will cause uneven stitches which is turn can cause vertical lines. If a wall is too big for the needle, the needle will have a sideward motion, which will cause formation of a wide wale in the fabric. When the trick walls are not evenly
  • 26. spaced, the needles will knit a certain points wide and narrow stitches in the fabric. These will also cause unsightly lines. Dirt may often get into the tricks pushing the needles outwards (cylinder) or upward (dial) causing irregular vertical stitches. Bent and worn needles will cause the fabric to have wider Wales in certain places. Needles with chipped latches, butts, hooks, cheeks, a protruding rivet or broken spoons will cause fuzzy and irregular vertical lines. Needles with bent latches will cause vertical tears or ladders in the fabric. Too much lubrication or the use of improper needle oil often causes oil or dirt strakes. 28 Dark black vertical lines may be caused by dirty tricks, which cause the needles to run high and rub against the cams. Not enough lubrication may also be the cause of black vertical lines.  Barre or uneven courses: The following may cause these faults : 1. Improper cam adjustment, 2. Uneven yarn tension, 3. Different yarn thickness or shaded yarn dyes, 4. Dial not in even relationship to cylinder and 5. Defective take down mechanism With the use of positive feeding devices, the stitch cam adjustment is Very accurate. The most important thing to remember when adjusting stitch cams is to keep the ratio of the dial stitch to the cylinder stitch the same at all the dial and cylinder feeds. It must be remember that a positive feed system (tape) will feed the same amount of yarn to all feeds regardless of stitch adjustment. This stitch adjustment controls the tension only. In the case of pique fabric or any similar kind, the odd feeds must be done at the same tension, but the even form the odd feeds so long as they are all the same. We know now that the yarn tension will control the length of stitch. It is very important that any surfaces that the yarn runs over or through mist be clean of any instruction which will caused irregular tension.
  • 27. A defective takes down mechanism which pulls tight and then soft will cause are as on the fabric to be loose and tight. The take down mechanism must pull evenly at all times to maintain a fabric with even courses. 29 If dial is not in the proper relationship to the cylinder, fabric of uneven stitch length will produced. The dial and cylinder relationship should be inspective at least once a year to maintain proper running conditions. Uneven thickness of the yarn is one of major causes of barre. The mechanic is really helpless in the situation. The only thing he can do is to learn to recognize this condition and notify the throwster immediately. Badly wound yarn also will cause uneven tension. In most cases a positive feed system will eliminate this defect, but if one used the mechanic should have the yarn rewound. In the case of dyed yarn shaded the mechanic is helpless in such a situation, he must notify the throwster immediately.  Holes and Snags: Holes in most cases are caused by excessive tension of the yarn. If stitch cams are adjusted too deep and there is excessive tension in the yarn, it wills beak, causing a hole. If the dial height is too high these will also cause a tremendous strain on the yarn. Other factors that produce excessive tension on the stitch are as follows: 1. Too tight a take down pup, 2. The positive feed system operating improperly, 3. Badly wound yarn, 4. Yarn with thin or weak spots. 5. Dirty or clogged surface in which the yarn passes through or on, 6. Yarn warp around. Snags in most cases are usually caused by badly wound yarn which at a low tensions and then suddenly jerks and runs at a high tension. This high tension wills usually a line of holes from one to nine inches.
  • 28. 30  Drop Stitches: This defect occurs when the needle tails to take new yarn of when the needle fails to take new yarn or when the needle losses its loop. One of the major causes of this problem is an improperly set yarn carrier. If the yarn is not fed directly into the hook of the needle, there is a good chance that the needle will not take the new yarn. If the stitch cam is set too far back there will be too much yarn is the needle loop. Because of this loop will be so loose that it can fall causing a drop stitch. Other possible causes of droop stitches are: the take down mechanism is too loose, not enough tension on yarn, dial height too high, needles, yarn in wrong hole of the carrier, dial needle latch closing under yarn carrier and dial needle latch closing near the hole of the carrier.  Tuck Stitches or Double Stitches: This defect occurs when the needle does not cast off its old loop. In most cases this defect can be traced to an improperly set stitch cam. If the needle is not drown far enough back the old loop will remain on the needle. On the other hand, if the stitch cam is set too far back, too much yarn will be going to needle. In this case this needle will be unable to knock over such a large loop. Other possible causes of Tuck Stitches are as follows: 1. Take down mechanism set too loose, 2. Needles move too freely in their slots, 3. Dial height set too low, 4. Defective needles, 5. Needle trick walls clogged with dirt etc.
  • 29. STITCH NOTATION, CAM ARRANGEMENT & NEEDLE REPEAT OF SOME KNITTED FABRIC 32
  • 30. FABRIC NAME: SINGLE LACOST 1. Stitch Notation:                     Fig. Looping diagram 2. Cam arrangement & Needle arrangement: i) Using two track cam: K K K T K K T K K K ii) Using three truck cam: K K K T K K T K K K K K K T K ii) Using four truck cam: K K K T K K T K K K K K K T K K T K K K Fig.- Cam arrangement Fig.- Needle arrangement 33 FABRIC NAME: DOUBLE LACOST 1 2 1 2 3 1 2 3 4  = Knit stitch  = Tuck stitch K = Knit cam T = Tuck cam 1 = 1 Butt Needle 2 = 2 Butt Needle 3 = 3 Butt Needle 4 = 4 Butt Needle
  • 31. 1. Stitch Notation:                         Fig. Looping diagram 2. Cam arrangement & Needle arrangement: i) Using two track cam: K K K K T T K T T K K K ii) Using three truck cam: K K K K T T K T T K K K K K K K T T ii) Using four truck cam: K K K K T T K T T K K K K K K K T T K T T K K K Fig.- Cam arrangement Fig.- Needle arrangement 34 FABRIC NAME: SINGLE JERSEY  = Knit stitch  = Tuck stitch K = Knit cam T = Tuck cam 1 = 1 Butt Needle 2 = 2 Butt Needle 3 = 3 Butt Needle 4 = 4 Butt Needle 1 2 1 2 3 1 2 3 4
  • 32. 1. Stitch Notation:                     Fig. Looping diagram 2. Cam arrangement & Needle arrangement: i) Using two track cam: K K K K K K K K K K ii) Using three truck cam: K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K ii) Using four truck cam: K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K Fig.- Cam arrangement Fig.- Needle arrangement 35 FABRIC PRODUCED IN J.A.L. 1 2 1 2 3 1 2 3 4  = Knit stitch K = Knit cam 1 = 1 Butt Needle 2 = 2 Butt Needle 3 = 3 Butt Needle 4 = 4 Butt Needle
  • 33. Fabrics name Yarn composition GSM SAMPLE Heavy Jersey 26/2Ne 225 11 Rib 24/1Ne 180 21 Rib 26/1Ne 135 22 Rib(2 ply) 34/2Ne 165 Single Lacost 24/1Ne 170 Double Lacost 26/1Ne 145 Interlock 34/1Ne 165 Fleece 26/1Ne + 16/1Ne 220 S/J Lycra 30/1Ne + 20D 160 36 CONCLUSION College of Textile Technology has given me the field to perform the industrial attachment with Jinnat Apparels Ltd. This attachment seems to me as a bridge to
  • 34. minimize the gap between theoretical and practical knowledge. Undoubtedly, this attachment paved us the way to learn more about Textile Technology, industrial practices, and industrial management and production process. Besides this attachment gave us the first opportunity to work in an Industry and acquainted us with the internal sight and sound of Textile Industries. I believe with all these, the experience of the industrial attachment will help our future life as a Textile Technologist. ---0--- 37 UNIVERSITY OF DHAKA REPORT ON INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 15TH FEBRUARY TO 15TH MARCH 2003
  • 35. WITH JINNAT APPARELS LTD. KASHIMPUR, GAZIPUR SUPERVISING TEACHER MOMINUL ALAM LECTURER (TECH) COLLEGE OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY TEJGAON, DHAKA SUBMITTED BY MOHAMMAD ZAHIRUL HAQUE EXAM ROLL # 09 REG. NO # 2064 SESSION – 1997-98 COLLEGE OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY TEJGAON, DHAKA 01 UNIVERSITY OF DHAKA REPORT ON INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 15TH FEBRUARY TO 15TH MARCH 2003
  • 36. WITH JINNAT APPARELS LTD. KASHIMPUR, GAZIPUR SUPERVISING TEACHER MOMINUL ALAM LECTURER (TECH) COLLEGE OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY TEJGAON, DHAKA SUBMITTED BY MOHAMMAD KAMRUZZAMAN EXAM ROLL # 25 REG. NO # 2081 SESSION – 1997-98 COLLEGE OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY TEJGAON, DHAKA 01 UNIVERSITY OF DHAKA REPORT ON INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 15TH FEBRUARY TO 15TH MARCH 2003 WITH
  • 37. JINNAT APPARELS LTD. KASHIMPUR, GAZIPUR SUPERVISING TEACHER MOMINUL ALAM LECTURER (TECH) COLLEGE OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY TEJGAON, DHAKA SUBMITTED BY MD. ZOHIRUL HAQUE KHAN EXAM. ROLL # 70 MOHAMMAD ZAHIRUL HAQUE EXAM. ROLL # 09 MOHAMMAD KAMRUZZAMAN EXAM. ROLL # 25 SESSION – 1997-98 COLLEGE OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY TEJGAON, DHAKA 01