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Morarjee Textiles |
Internship report | NIFT,
Jodhpur
Internship report
Textile Manufacturing & processing brief about production in
Morarjee textiles, Nagpur.
Megha Monga, Salil Kumar Gupta, Saumya Srivastava,
Utkarsh Raj Singh
June5, 2015
Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur
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Acknowledgement
We have great pleasure to express sincere feeling of gratitude towards Mr. Manoj Tiwari, Centre
Co-Ordinatotor, NIFT,Jodhpur for giving opportunity value addition key points. We express our
profound respect for Ms. Mandakini Awasarmol, Sr. HR Manager, Unit 2, Morarjee Textiles & staff of
all departments. Their encouragement, proper guidance and sustained interest help up in completing
project. They not only encourage us through this venture but also took pains in going through the
manuscript carefully without misguidance the training in Morarjee textiles ltd. would never see the light
of day. We are very thankful to our extremely efficient and result oriented Professor Mr. Janmay Singh
Hada & Mrs. Ankita Srivastava for teching us the basics of textile manufacturing process. For this globe
trolling effort for making our project grand success.
Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur
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About Morarjee Textiles & Ashok Piramal Group.
The Morarjee Textile Ltd. was established in 1871 and is a part of ASHOK PIRAMAL GROUP, leading
business group in India. This is one of the oldest textile mill in India and is among the first 5 companies
to be listed on the Indian stock exchange. Morarjee Textile Ltd. was established in 1995 in Butibori,
Nagpur. Mrs. Urvi Piramal owns this industry headquartered in Mumbai. Morarjee Textile Limited has 2
divisions -The shirting division (estd. 1995) and The Printed Fabric division (estd. 2003). Morarjee
mainly uses Egyptian Giza cotton and Pima cotton for their specialty production of Swiss Voile or
Guthra.This industry is certified with ISO 9001:200 QMS, ISO 14001:2008 EMS. Main businesses of Ashok
Piramal Group Consits of-
1. Textile (Morarjee Textiles)
2. Engineering (Miranda Tools, PMP Auto)
3. Real Estate (Peninsula Land Ltd.)
4. Retails
ASHOK PIRAMAL GROUP CORE VALUES:-
 CUSTOMER FOCUS
 INTERGRITY
 TEAM WORK
 PASSION FOR EXCELLANCE
 ACCOUTABILITY
 RESPECT
MARKETS:
Morarjee Textiles holds Export & Indian Markets. Export markets of this mill cover Sudan, Saudi, Arabia,
Dubai, Iran, Yemen. These Arabian markets have a huge demand for Guthra, which plays a major part in
the profitability of this industry. The RMG sector of this industry cover markets of Europe, Bangladesh,
Srilanka & Singapore.
Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur
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SPINNING SECTION
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WHAT IS SPINNING?
Spinning is a major part of the textile industry. It is part of the textile manufacturing process where
fibres are converted into yarn and then into fabrics. Spinning is the twisting together of drawn out
strands of fibres to form yarn, though it is colloquially used to describe the process of drawing out,
inserting the twist, and winding onto bobbins.
TYPE OF FIBRE:
The type of fibre Morarjee Textiles has been using in their units is a natural fibre i.e. COTTON. They have
been using cotton fibre to produce their shirting fabric which is VOILE and fashion fabric which is
manufactured to middle-east. Yarn count that is being worked upon is 2/100s
HT. Total no. of spindles
are 31568.
PROCESS:
 Initially, the mixing of cotton fibres is carried out manually by the women workers.
 Then, these fibres are send to the blow line. After the blow room, the fibres are then passed
through the carding section. A continuous web of sliver is formed for subsequent processing.
 Eight of the sliver form one sliver lap. Six sliver laps together form one ribbon lap.
 Then comes the combing section where short filament fibres are separated from the long
filament fibres.
 To achieve the sliver evenness through doubling, these fibres are moved to the drawing frame.
 Further, we move onto the drafting, twisting and winding of the yarn in the ring frame.
 Next step is Autoconer which is for converting smaller yarn packages into bigger ones.
 Further ply winding is carried out to double the twist of the yarns as the industry deals double
twisted yarns either by TFO or simply doubling.
 Then yarns are singed to burn the protruding fibres and reduce the unevenness occurred due to
excessive hairiness.
 Final step is the packing of yarns.
Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur
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Process Flow of SPINNING in MORARJEE TEXTILES
MIXING OF THE
FIBRES
BLOWROOM CARDING SLIVER
ROVING
COMBER/
COMBING
SECTION
DRAWING/
DRAW FRAME
SPEED FRAME
SPEED FRAME RING FRAME AUTOCONER
PLY WINDING
TFO
(TWO FOR ONE
TWISTER)
PACKING
PLY WINDING
DOUBLING
SINGEING
PACKING
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MACHINE PARAMETRES AND SPECIFICATIONS
1. MIXING :
Type of mixing: Stack mixing
2. BLOW LINE :
Machine details:
Model Trutzschler
Year 1994
Efficiency 70%
Production 1230kg/shift
Speed 7-10 rpm
3. CARDING :
Machine details:
Name of machine DK780 C1/3
Model Trumach L/R
Year 2006 1993
Efficiency 95% 95%
Production 60kg/shift 52-55kg/shift
No of m/c 6 14
Speed 53 mpm 35 mpm
4. COMBER :
Machine details:
Name of machine LE 7/4 LK54
Doubling 4*2 8*1
Year 1997 2006
Production 869.85kg/shift 1159kg/shift
No of m/c 8 2
Speed(nips/min) 150-175 250
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5. DRAW FRAME :
Machine details:
Name of machine RSB DRAWFRAME
Doubling 8
Year 1997
Model RSB 851
Production 344.08 kgs/shift
No of m/c 4
Speed(nips/min) 250mpm
6. ROVING FRAME :
Machine details:
Name of machine Lakshmi-Reiter
Model LF 1400
Year 1994
Temp. 85-90 F
No of m/c 6
Speed 1000rpm
7. RING FRAME :
Machine details:
Model LR6/S Textual DJ 50
Year 2006 1990
No. of machine 12 40
Spindle speed 18000-20000 13000-20000
Speed 9-10mpm 9-10mpm
Temp 85-90F 85-90F
Count 100,110,115 100,110,115
Traveller speed 35.79m/s 35.79m/s
No. of spindle 1156 476
TPI 35 35
Production g/s/s 25 25
Total length in mts 6368 6368
Time taking 8-11hrs 8-11hrs
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8. AUTOCONER :
Machine details:
Name Schlaforst 338,Moratec
Total no m/c 6,2
Speed 880-1000 mpm
Length of cone 100000 mts
Wt. of one cone 1 kg
Time 3.5 Hrs.
Efficiency 83%
Production 112kg/mc
9. PLY WINDING :
Machine details:
Type of m/c Tex tool PPW
Speed 200-270 600-800
Efficiency 92 92
Year 1999 2006
No of drum 120 48
Knotting Knotter Spicler
Tension 5-20 Countwise
Production kgs/shift 172 202
10. DOUBLING :
Machine details:
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11. TF
O :
Machine details:
Name Vijayalakshmivths
No. of spindle 204/ machine
Spindle speed 12080
Weight of one cone 1 kg
Count 38/46/57
Efficiency 96%
Production/shift 128
Length of one cone 1 lack mts
Time 18-20 hrs/one doff
12. SINGEING :
Machine details:
Model Textool(DY 600) Texmo(REF200)
Year 1998 1995
No. of spindle 432 448
Spindle speed 10800 10200
Mixing 130 130
Count 2/100 2/10
Doubling count 42,46,48 42,46,48
Traveller speed 31m/s 28m/s
Twist 87% high 87% high
TPI 35 35
TM 5.40 5.40
Production g/s/s 42-46 42-46
Total length in mts 11376 11376
Efficiency 96% 96%
Name PS metlar` PS metlar
Type GSG GSI
Year 1998 2006
Speed mpm 675 725
Total no. of machine 3 1
Total no. of drums 120 60
Efficiency 78% 78%
Production kg/shift 4 4
Weight of one cone 933gms 933gms
Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur
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WEAVING SECTION
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Flow chart
Conditioned yarn
Winding
Weft windingWarp winding
Pirn windingwarping
Drawing in
Warp beam shifting
Weaving
Inspection
Folding & packing
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Winding
The main object of the winding is to wound the yarn in to suitable package this can be conveniently used
for used for weaving process. Here winding is done for warp and weft. Warping is done for warp yarn
and pirn winding is done for weft.
Warp winding
Winding of the warp yarn from small package to warp beam is called warping. The object of warping is
to draw the calculated no. of warp ends usually between 200-600 from a creel and to wind them in a
sheet formed on a beam in a such a manner that the threads are parallel to each other and in required
length and width.
Sectional warping
Sectional warp winder is the one type of machine which is use for warp winding. This machine is
generally used for normal and complicated check and stripe pattern and for high quality of cotton fabric.
The sections are usually contain of equal length and no. of warp yarn can be differ.
In Morajee Textile ltd. There are 3 drum warping machine all 3 machine have different
capacity with 10 section. And it provide warp beam to the drawing section, after winding of warp sheet
on drum it shift into warp beam with required tension.
The specifications are as follows.
m/c name Benninger Harsh Rabatex
Year 1986 1991 1994
Warping Speed(mpm) 200-250 250-300 250-300
Beaming Speed(mpm) 20-40 40-50 40-60
Creel Capacity 480 400 512
Drawing-in
This is the process of passing of each warp yarn from drop wire then healed shaft according to the
drafting plan and then from reed in order of 2 ends/dent according to denting order. After completion
of drawing-in it forward to the weaving section.
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Drawing-in specification
Drawing style - manually
No of ends drawn/hrs. -1000
Time req. for drawing-in 1 beam - 2-2.5 hrs.
Maximum no. of healed used - 24
Drawing-in production- 2 beams/shift
Denting production - 3 beams/shift
Healed frame - frametex ,India
(2 workers are needs for drawing)
Loom get-up
It is the process of shifting of the warp beam on loom after end of warp yarn ,when warp yarn become
fabric then warp beam become blank that’s why this is required. 2 hours’ time required for beam
shifting
Weft windin
Winding of the single ply yarn from heavy package to suitable package with the help of pirn winding
machine is called weft winding.
Pirn winding
The object of pirn winding is to wound the weft on the pirn with certain density of the pirn for easy
unwinding of weft yarn during picking motion.
The efficiency of loom shed is depends on the type of weft package is used & its density so here we
required defect free weft packages which winds under suitable tension/this is achieved by pirn winding.
MACHINE PARAMETERS
MODEL -Lakshmi-Schweiter
No. of m/c - 04
No of spindles- 156
Spindle rpm - 6000-7000
Yarn tension - 22Cn
Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur
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Weaving
Weaving is the interlacement of the warp and weft, it can be plain or with different design. In a
Morarjee Textile ltd. There are 100 automatic shuttle loom with dobby attachment and 74 plain loom s
are there. One special attachment is there which produce leno weave with the help of half heald or
cross heald which attached on heald shaft. Leno is the one of the most complicated weave which is
producing Morarjee Textile ltd. Here is 6 to 24 heald shafts are according to the design which is
operated by dobby. Here one special type of GUTHARA fabric is woven, this fabric is producing with high
set of fabric and maximum fineness that much possible on cotton. Width of GUTHARA fabric is 56” to
65”. And GSM of the fabric is 90g.
Machine specification:
MACHINE MAKE MODEL NO. OF
MACHINES
LOOM
NEW LOOM
Lakshmi
RUTI-C100
RUTI-C100
RUTI-C100
180cm
120cm
190cm
190CM
180CM
190CM
66 DOBBY
02 DOBBY
24 DOBBY
24 PLAIN
36 PLAIN
8DOBBY
14PLAIN
TOTAL 174
Some stop motions are there which make loom highly automatic easy handling and it maintain the
quality of fabric.
 Warp stop motion
 Automatic pirn changing
 Temple motion
Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur
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DESIGN STUDIO
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Design Studio is the department which deals with the making, compiling & optimizing designs for the
prints to be formed on the fabric. Its purpose is to optimize the designs in such a way that it can be
printed on the fabric in the desired form irrespective of the fabric type and properties. The designs
needs to be formed and separated in parts in such a way that it can be easily formed into screens for
different colors to be printed.
The studio deals with making the designs (in-house designing) or optimizing the designs sent by the
buyers. Mostly, the designs to be printed are sent by the buyers themselves. The buyers send the
designs in the format of a printed sheet, printed fabric or a soft copy of the image in CD. The designs
sent in a hard form are then scanned and fed in the computer for optimization for printing. The
optimized designs are then printed for sample production on paper and the desired fabric. The fabric
sample or Strike-off is a small piece of the fabric which is printed with the ordered design. These
samples are then sent to the buyer for further approval, after which the confirmation is done. If
confirmed, the designs are sent to the printing department for bulk printing, if not, the sampling
procedure is repeated with the variations or requirements demanded by the buyer until confirmation.
Each design needs to be separated into different layers according to the colors to be used and the
design pattern. Designs are separated or made on 2D graphic CAD systems like Photoshop, Corel Draw
and Illustrator. These are separated through the color channels and are made in different layers of
colors. Each separated layer is used to print only one color which is the part of the design. These layers
are marked accordingly with unique numbers or alphabets in accordance to the sequence to be followed
while printing; generally the sequence follows from dark to light colors. The design layer sizes are
according to the size of the print design or the repeats in the design. The number of layers to be
generated depends on the design pattern and shapes. Every layer is then printed separately on
transparent sheets with black ink for engraving. Smaller prints with one repeat size of the design are
printed for Strike-off sample and larger prints with multiple repeats are made for production.
The design studio also decides which printing technique to be used for printing procedure for particular
order, either Rotary or Flat bed. This decision is made on the basis of the design structure, size,
complication, and order quantity. The design is then made accordingly with compliance to flat bed or
rotary screen print machine.
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Flow Chart Buyer
Marketing/HQ
Design Studio
Design Development
Sample Production
Sample Engraving
Strike-Off
Approval
Production Engraving
Printing
If Approved
If Not Approved
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PROCESSING
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Flow Chart
Grieg Fabric
Mercerization
Singeing
White BaseDye Base
Open Width Bleach
Stenter
Dyeing
Washing
Stenter + Batching
Printing
Rope Form
Ageing
Finishing
Sanforising
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Morarjee Textiles pulls its fabric through a series of processing operations to make it print ready &
according to customer demand. These operations help to make the Morarjee’s speciality Guthra Voile.
This process flow follows step-wise operations from Greig fabric to final product.
Singeing- The Greig fabric is singed before further processing. Singeing makes the fabric quality even
finer and improves its texture. Singeing results in clear print patterns, improved fabric surface, &
prevents premature pilling of fabrics.
Mercerization- It is one of the most important of all cotton finishes. This imparts luster to the cotton,
increases its strength by nearly 25% and improves dye affinity, producing brighter shades than
unmercerized cotton. It also enhances the hand as well as uses less dye to achieve the same depth of
shade. The finish consists of treating the material while under tension with cold, concentrated sodium
hydroxide solution.
Bleaching- Bleaching is used to whiten the fabrics. It removes natural pigment and vegetable impurities
or any other coloring material from natural fibers. It gives a bright white color to the fabric which is
important to attain before dyeing or printing to give bright shades of color to the fabric. Bleaching agent
used here is generally Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2).
Two types of bleaching methods are used in Morarjee textiles namely Open width bleaching and Rope
form bleaching.
Open Width Bleaching- This bleaching process uses Jiggers (Jumbo Jigger, Yamuna Jigger,
Atmospheric Jigger). Fabrics that needs to be dyed before printing or dyed for end use are
bleached using this method because this method protects the fabric from getting wrinkles which
can damage the dye effects
Rope form bleaching- This method bleaches the fabric in a rope form. It uses Kier, Jet dyeing
machine & Soft flow machine. This is used fir the fabrics which have to be printed on white base
or have to be packed in white form itself; because this machine can put wrinkles in the fabric
which do not cause any effect in printing.
Stenter- The bleached fabric is then passed through stenter which helps fix its width and dries the fabric
as well. The fabric is passed through water before passing through stenter and it also dries through he
heated chambers of the stenter.
Dyeing- Dried fabric from stenter is then took for the dyeing process. Morarjee uses Reactive dyes for
dyeing the fabric. This industry uses Jiggers, Jumbo Jiggers, Yamuna Jiggers & Atmospheric jiggers for
dyeing with cold or hot brand dyes. It also uses Pad Silicate dyeing method on Kuster padder. After
padding, the fabric roll is kept under rotation for 12 hrs. for the dyeing process to complete.
Ageing- The dyed fabric is then sent in the ager for fixation or curing of the dye.
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Washing- Aged fabric is then washed with water to remove the excess dyed molecules on the surface
using a jigger.
Printing- The washed fabric is the either sent directly for finishing or to the printing department for
making prints depending on the order. Printing process uses rotary and flat bed screen printing method
for making prints. The equipments used for printing are Zimmer-Austria(Rotary), Ichinose(Flat-Bed),
M-Tex(Rotary), & Buser(Flat-Bed). The prints are made by discharge printing & Pigment Printing
depending upon the sharpness and the print quality.
Finishing- The printed fabric is the sent for finishing, where two major finishes are applied namely Soft
finish & Stiff finish. These finishes are applied using jiggers or Primatex. These finishes are applied
depeding upon the end use or as per the order. The finished fabric is then also Sanforised which
improves its shrinkage resistivity and and fabric drape & handle.
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PRINTING SECTION
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PRINTING
The process of applying colours to fabric in definite patterns or designs. Various colours applied to the
fabric in sharply defined patterns. Also referred to as localised dyeing.
METHODS OF PRINTING:
 Screen Printing (Flat bed and Rotary)
 Roller Printing
PRINTING STYLES:
 Direct Printing
 Reactive print, Pigment print
 Discharge Printing
 Pigment Discharge print
PROCESS FOR REACTIVE PRINT
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PROCESS FOR PIGMENT PRINT PROCESS FOR PIGMENT
DISCHARGE PRINT
CHEMICALS INVOLVED IN THE COMPOSITION OF PASTE
Reactive paste
 H2O
 Sodium hexa Meta phosphate (0.5%, sequestering agent)
 Print medium, Sodium Alginate (2%)
 Thickener, CP-20/MTRT (2%)
 Hygroscopic agent – UREA (10%)
(FOR VISCOSE - Extra addition of 10% urea)
 Mild oxidising agent, resist salt (1.5%)
 Fixing agent alkali, Sodium bicarbonate (3.5%)
 Glycerine (only for viscose)
 For dark medium – 4%
 For light medium – 2%
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Pigment paste
 H2O
 Binder (10-20%)
 Crosslinking polymer
 SL-1100 (2-5%)
 Softener - FX-500
 Rheology modifier (0.5-1.5%)
 Fixing agent, LF (1-2%)
 Ammonia – 1-2%
 TEA – 1%
 Discharge agent (10-20%)
 Pidiprint 160 -3.5-5%
PREPARATION OF SCREEN
The screen preparation is carried out in the engraving department.
Two types of screens are prepared:
 Flat-bed screen
 Rotary screen
Flatbed Screen preparation:-
The polyester bolting cloth is used for making the screen. The polyester bolting cloth stretched on the
aluminium frame and stick at the side of the frame. Then solution of bluecoat 828 and thinner is applied
on the screen after drying the screen, the screen exposing on exposing machine which print the design
on the screen, the screen expose with the ultra violet light for hardening. After that the washing,
checking, touching and final checking is done and screen is ready for printing.
Rotary Screen preparation:-
The thin nickel sheet is used for making the screen. Then solution of photo emulsion is applied on the
screen after drying the screen, the screen exposing on exposing machine which expose the design on
the screen. After that washing, checking, touching is done and screen is kept in the oven for 2 hrs. At
210°c for hardening. After that the end ring is fitted at both side of the screen and screen ready for
printing.
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MACHINE SPECIFICATION
ROTARY PRINTING MACHINE:
Manufacture - Stomac
Manufacturing year-1984
No.of colour-13
Function depend on-pneumatic pressure
Printing width-1850cm
Max speed-70mpm
Screen used-nickel metal
Printing blade-stainless steel
Blanket width-2060mm
Blanket lenth-16.5 metre
Printing- warp wise
Designing repeat-fix 64.2cm
No.of dryer cylinder-4
Production capacity-6000-7000 mt
BUSER FLAT BED PRINTING MACHINE:
Manufacture - T.manikelal
Manufacturing year-1980
No.of colour-10
Function depend on – hydraulic pressure
Printing width-1575cm
Max speed-7-8mpm
Screen used-polyester bolting cloth
Printing blade-rubber
Blanket width-2000mm
Blanket lenth-50.8mtr
Printing- weft wise
Designing repeat-variable upto3000mm
No.of dryer cylinder-1
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ICHINOSE FLAT BED PRINTING MACHINE:
Manufacture - Ichinose
Manufacturing year-2006
No. of colour-12
Function depend on - pneumatic pressure
Printing width-2100cm
Max speed-10-18mpm
Screen used-polyester bolting clot
Printing blade-rubber
Blanket width-2400mm
Blanket lenth-61.5mtr
Printing- weft wise
Designing repeat-variable upto3040mm
No.of dryer cylinder-1
ZIMMER PRINTING MACHINE:
Manufacture- Zimmer Australia
Manufacturing year-2011
No.of colour-08
Function depend on - pneumatic pressure
Printing width-1950mm
Max speed-100mpm
Screen used-nickel metal
Printing blade-magnetic rod
Blanket width-2110mm
Blanket lenth-18mtr
Printing- weft wise
Designing repeat-64.2-101.8cm
No.of dryer cylinder-3
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TESTING
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OBJECTIVE OF TESTING:
 Checking the quality and stability of raw material and selection of material
 Monitoring of production i.e. process control
 Assessment of final product, whether the quality is acceptable or not, (how will the yarn
perform while weaving etc.?)
 Investigation of faulty materials (analysis of customer complaint, identification of faults in
machine etc.)
 Product development and research.
 Specification testing: specifications are formed and the materials are tested to prove whether
they fall within the limits allowed in the specification (e.g. Specified by a customer)
In Morarjee Textiles ltd. There are various services provided for quality control testing. Broad range of
testing facilities are available for finished product, materials or components based on defined standards,
regulation and customer requirements.
Testing is done at different stages of product.
 Fiber
 Yarn
 Fabric
Fiber testing: third party out house testing is done for both cotton and viscose fiber.
Yarn testing: yarn occupies the intermediate position in the manufacture of fabric from raw material
therefore yarn result are essential both for estimating the quality of raw material and for controlling the
quality of fabric produced.
The important characteristics of yarn being tested are,
 Yarn twist: twist is defined as the spiral decomposition of the components of yarn, which is
expressed as the no. of turns per unit length e.g. tpi
In Morarjee TPI tester machine is used in which 25 cm long sample is taken both the
ends of the yarn is clamped and the whole yarn us untwisted according to its twist direction i.e.
s twist or z twist and the no. of twist is noted down. If the twist is “z” then machine turn in
clockwise and for “s” twist anticlockwise.
 Yarn strength and elongation: machine used is Premier Tensomaxx 7000, the automatic tensile
testing installation from Premier provides all the tensile characteristics such as breaking force,
elongation, tenacity and work done. The graphical output, such as the Force Elongation Curve
and the frequency distribution diagram enhance the possibilities of further analysis and
interpretation.
Premier Tensomaxx 7000 works on the principle of ‘CRE - constant rate of elongation’’. The yarn
is automatically laid into the clamps and a load exerted till the yarn breaks. The signals
generated by the movement of the jaws and from the load cells are processed to obtain various
output information in the PC as well as in the printer.
 Yarn evenness: machine used is classimate and premier IQ. Premier iQ is used for
simultaneous measurement of yarn, roving/sliver for evenness and other properties from two
independent testing towers. There is an intelligent alert prompts the user to look into specific
'exceptions' while testing slub and Fancy yarn measurement with Black board and Fabric
simulation. Nep classification, foreign fiber and White PP Classification to fine tune the spinning
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preparatory process. Classimate works similarly as premier IQ machine but it detects every
defect in the yarn and the length of defect.
CLASSIMATE DETAILS:
A4
Ring front
zone dirty
B4
Slub from ring
department
C4
Floating fibers,
fly slub
D4
More fluf in
ring
department
E
Double yarn (spinners double)
A3
Neps, fluff,
foreign
matters, dirty
drafting zone
B3
Fluff in
travelers
unsuitable
travelers bad
piecing
C3
Ring piecing
etc
D3
More fluff in
ring
department
A2
bad condition
of carding,
blow room
trash in yarn
B2
fibers damage
in process,
spindle
without
aprons
C2
Bad piecing in
cans sliver
entanglements
etc.
D2
Simplex gauge
problem
A1
Bad condition
of carding
blow room,
trash in yarn
B1
Fibers
damage in
process,
spindle
without
aprons
C1
Bad piecing in
can sliver
entanglement
etc.
D1
Floating fibers
F
Bad Piecing in
ring, simplex
back process
etc
G
Bad Piecing in
ring
simplex(long
thick places)
H1
Mostly eccentric
bobbins oc
simplex and ring
etc. (thin)
I1
Mostly eccentric
bobbins oc
simplex and ring
etc. (long thin)
H2
Poor handling of
materials during
processes(thin)
I2
This type of
faults are
produced by
separation of
sliver (long thin)
Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur
31
Fabric testing: Fabric testing methods are designed as standard testing procedures with a purpose to
help the textile industry monitor quality. Utilizing pre-determined testing methods for conducting tests,
is the only way to maintain a consistent and level playing field in regard to the testing of textiles. The
fabric tests conducted are:
Physical test
 Tearing strength
 Tensile strength
 Seam slippage
 Seam strength
 Fabric width
 Dimension stability
 Gsm
Chemical test
 Color fastness to rubbing
 Color fastness to washing
 Perspiration test
Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur
32
FABRIC INSPECTION
The purpose of fabric inspection is to determine the quality and acceptability for our fabric. There are
different method for inspection both RMG fabric and printed voile fabric.
For printed fabric visual inspection is done.
PROCESS:
DESCRIPTION:
Fabric plating: Open width manual layering of fabric takes place, the layer formed is of 1 yard.
Cut look and inspection: visual inspection of printed fabric is done and the defected area is cut off.
Roll fold: small roll of fabric is made of 30 to 60 yard according to customer’s requirement then open
width fabric is rolled over paper roll with the help of roll fold machine. Shrink Packaging Machine
Shrink packing: Shrink tunnels using a heated air system, it used for shrinkable films (PE POF PVC) that
have been applied by L-bar sealers, sleeve wrappers, and sealing cutters. Designed for high production,
the air flow technology is used to circulate the air to avoid bubbles and bumps in plastic film.
Independent control systems regulate temperature, air velocity and conveyor speeds, our shrink tunnels
feature carefully controlled air velocity and temperature that are maintained throughout the tunnel for
optimum film shrink. The efficient heating system on each machine reduces the amount of electricity
needed to run the machine, consequently reducing operating costs.
Final packing process is done by packing 5 to 6 rolls of fabric in a carton and then manual repacking by
plastic cover is done with all the specifications of packed material and customers details is written over
it which is ready for shipment.
fabric
plating
cut look
and
inspection
roll fold
shrink
packing

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report

  • 1. Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur Internship report Textile Manufacturing & processing brief about production in Morarjee textiles, Nagpur. Megha Monga, Salil Kumar Gupta, Saumya Srivastava, Utkarsh Raj Singh June5, 2015
  • 2. Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur 1 Acknowledgement We have great pleasure to express sincere feeling of gratitude towards Mr. Manoj Tiwari, Centre Co-Ordinatotor, NIFT,Jodhpur for giving opportunity value addition key points. We express our profound respect for Ms. Mandakini Awasarmol, Sr. HR Manager, Unit 2, Morarjee Textiles & staff of all departments. Their encouragement, proper guidance and sustained interest help up in completing project. They not only encourage us through this venture but also took pains in going through the manuscript carefully without misguidance the training in Morarjee textiles ltd. would never see the light of day. We are very thankful to our extremely efficient and result oriented Professor Mr. Janmay Singh Hada & Mrs. Ankita Srivastava for teching us the basics of textile manufacturing process. For this globe trolling effort for making our project grand success.
  • 3. Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur 2 About Morarjee Textiles & Ashok Piramal Group. The Morarjee Textile Ltd. was established in 1871 and is a part of ASHOK PIRAMAL GROUP, leading business group in India. This is one of the oldest textile mill in India and is among the first 5 companies to be listed on the Indian stock exchange. Morarjee Textile Ltd. was established in 1995 in Butibori, Nagpur. Mrs. Urvi Piramal owns this industry headquartered in Mumbai. Morarjee Textile Limited has 2 divisions -The shirting division (estd. 1995) and The Printed Fabric division (estd. 2003). Morarjee mainly uses Egyptian Giza cotton and Pima cotton for their specialty production of Swiss Voile or Guthra.This industry is certified with ISO 9001:200 QMS, ISO 14001:2008 EMS. Main businesses of Ashok Piramal Group Consits of- 1. Textile (Morarjee Textiles) 2. Engineering (Miranda Tools, PMP Auto) 3. Real Estate (Peninsula Land Ltd.) 4. Retails ASHOK PIRAMAL GROUP CORE VALUES:-  CUSTOMER FOCUS  INTERGRITY  TEAM WORK  PASSION FOR EXCELLANCE  ACCOUTABILITY  RESPECT MARKETS: Morarjee Textiles holds Export & Indian Markets. Export markets of this mill cover Sudan, Saudi, Arabia, Dubai, Iran, Yemen. These Arabian markets have a huge demand for Guthra, which plays a major part in the profitability of this industry. The RMG sector of this industry cover markets of Europe, Bangladesh, Srilanka & Singapore.
  • 4. Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur 3 SPINNING SECTION
  • 5. Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur 4 WHAT IS SPINNING? Spinning is a major part of the textile industry. It is part of the textile manufacturing process where fibres are converted into yarn and then into fabrics. Spinning is the twisting together of drawn out strands of fibres to form yarn, though it is colloquially used to describe the process of drawing out, inserting the twist, and winding onto bobbins. TYPE OF FIBRE: The type of fibre Morarjee Textiles has been using in their units is a natural fibre i.e. COTTON. They have been using cotton fibre to produce their shirting fabric which is VOILE and fashion fabric which is manufactured to middle-east. Yarn count that is being worked upon is 2/100s HT. Total no. of spindles are 31568. PROCESS:  Initially, the mixing of cotton fibres is carried out manually by the women workers.  Then, these fibres are send to the blow line. After the blow room, the fibres are then passed through the carding section. A continuous web of sliver is formed for subsequent processing.  Eight of the sliver form one sliver lap. Six sliver laps together form one ribbon lap.  Then comes the combing section where short filament fibres are separated from the long filament fibres.  To achieve the sliver evenness through doubling, these fibres are moved to the drawing frame.  Further, we move onto the drafting, twisting and winding of the yarn in the ring frame.  Next step is Autoconer which is for converting smaller yarn packages into bigger ones.  Further ply winding is carried out to double the twist of the yarns as the industry deals double twisted yarns either by TFO or simply doubling.  Then yarns are singed to burn the protruding fibres and reduce the unevenness occurred due to excessive hairiness.  Final step is the packing of yarns.
  • 6. Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur 5 Process Flow of SPINNING in MORARJEE TEXTILES MIXING OF THE FIBRES BLOWROOM CARDING SLIVER ROVING COMBER/ COMBING SECTION DRAWING/ DRAW FRAME SPEED FRAME SPEED FRAME RING FRAME AUTOCONER PLY WINDING TFO (TWO FOR ONE TWISTER) PACKING PLY WINDING DOUBLING SINGEING PACKING
  • 7. Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur 6 MACHINE PARAMETRES AND SPECIFICATIONS 1. MIXING : Type of mixing: Stack mixing 2. BLOW LINE : Machine details: Model Trutzschler Year 1994 Efficiency 70% Production 1230kg/shift Speed 7-10 rpm 3. CARDING : Machine details: Name of machine DK780 C1/3 Model Trumach L/R Year 2006 1993 Efficiency 95% 95% Production 60kg/shift 52-55kg/shift No of m/c 6 14 Speed 53 mpm 35 mpm 4. COMBER : Machine details: Name of machine LE 7/4 LK54 Doubling 4*2 8*1 Year 1997 2006 Production 869.85kg/shift 1159kg/shift No of m/c 8 2 Speed(nips/min) 150-175 250
  • 8. Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur 7 5. DRAW FRAME : Machine details: Name of machine RSB DRAWFRAME Doubling 8 Year 1997 Model RSB 851 Production 344.08 kgs/shift No of m/c 4 Speed(nips/min) 250mpm 6. ROVING FRAME : Machine details: Name of machine Lakshmi-Reiter Model LF 1400 Year 1994 Temp. 85-90 F No of m/c 6 Speed 1000rpm 7. RING FRAME : Machine details: Model LR6/S Textual DJ 50 Year 2006 1990 No. of machine 12 40 Spindle speed 18000-20000 13000-20000 Speed 9-10mpm 9-10mpm Temp 85-90F 85-90F Count 100,110,115 100,110,115 Traveller speed 35.79m/s 35.79m/s No. of spindle 1156 476 TPI 35 35 Production g/s/s 25 25 Total length in mts 6368 6368 Time taking 8-11hrs 8-11hrs
  • 9. Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur 8 8. AUTOCONER : Machine details: Name Schlaforst 338,Moratec Total no m/c 6,2 Speed 880-1000 mpm Length of cone 100000 mts Wt. of one cone 1 kg Time 3.5 Hrs. Efficiency 83% Production 112kg/mc 9. PLY WINDING : Machine details: Type of m/c Tex tool PPW Speed 200-270 600-800 Efficiency 92 92 Year 1999 2006 No of drum 120 48 Knotting Knotter Spicler Tension 5-20 Countwise Production kgs/shift 172 202 10. DOUBLING : Machine details:
  • 10. Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur 9 11. TF O : Machine details: Name Vijayalakshmivths No. of spindle 204/ machine Spindle speed 12080 Weight of one cone 1 kg Count 38/46/57 Efficiency 96% Production/shift 128 Length of one cone 1 lack mts Time 18-20 hrs/one doff 12. SINGEING : Machine details: Model Textool(DY 600) Texmo(REF200) Year 1998 1995 No. of spindle 432 448 Spindle speed 10800 10200 Mixing 130 130 Count 2/100 2/10 Doubling count 42,46,48 42,46,48 Traveller speed 31m/s 28m/s Twist 87% high 87% high TPI 35 35 TM 5.40 5.40 Production g/s/s 42-46 42-46 Total length in mts 11376 11376 Efficiency 96% 96% Name PS metlar` PS metlar Type GSG GSI Year 1998 2006 Speed mpm 675 725 Total no. of machine 3 1 Total no. of drums 120 60 Efficiency 78% 78% Production kg/shift 4 4 Weight of one cone 933gms 933gms
  • 11. Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur 10 WEAVING SECTION
  • 12. Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur 11 Flow chart Conditioned yarn Winding Weft windingWarp winding Pirn windingwarping Drawing in Warp beam shifting Weaving Inspection Folding & packing
  • 13. Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur 12 Winding The main object of the winding is to wound the yarn in to suitable package this can be conveniently used for used for weaving process. Here winding is done for warp and weft. Warping is done for warp yarn and pirn winding is done for weft. Warp winding Winding of the warp yarn from small package to warp beam is called warping. The object of warping is to draw the calculated no. of warp ends usually between 200-600 from a creel and to wind them in a sheet formed on a beam in a such a manner that the threads are parallel to each other and in required length and width. Sectional warping Sectional warp winder is the one type of machine which is use for warp winding. This machine is generally used for normal and complicated check and stripe pattern and for high quality of cotton fabric. The sections are usually contain of equal length and no. of warp yarn can be differ. In Morajee Textile ltd. There are 3 drum warping machine all 3 machine have different capacity with 10 section. And it provide warp beam to the drawing section, after winding of warp sheet on drum it shift into warp beam with required tension. The specifications are as follows. m/c name Benninger Harsh Rabatex Year 1986 1991 1994 Warping Speed(mpm) 200-250 250-300 250-300 Beaming Speed(mpm) 20-40 40-50 40-60 Creel Capacity 480 400 512 Drawing-in This is the process of passing of each warp yarn from drop wire then healed shaft according to the drafting plan and then from reed in order of 2 ends/dent according to denting order. After completion of drawing-in it forward to the weaving section.
  • 14. Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur 13 Drawing-in specification Drawing style - manually No of ends drawn/hrs. -1000 Time req. for drawing-in 1 beam - 2-2.5 hrs. Maximum no. of healed used - 24 Drawing-in production- 2 beams/shift Denting production - 3 beams/shift Healed frame - frametex ,India (2 workers are needs for drawing) Loom get-up It is the process of shifting of the warp beam on loom after end of warp yarn ,when warp yarn become fabric then warp beam become blank that’s why this is required. 2 hours’ time required for beam shifting Weft windin Winding of the single ply yarn from heavy package to suitable package with the help of pirn winding machine is called weft winding. Pirn winding The object of pirn winding is to wound the weft on the pirn with certain density of the pirn for easy unwinding of weft yarn during picking motion. The efficiency of loom shed is depends on the type of weft package is used & its density so here we required defect free weft packages which winds under suitable tension/this is achieved by pirn winding. MACHINE PARAMETERS MODEL -Lakshmi-Schweiter No. of m/c - 04 No of spindles- 156 Spindle rpm - 6000-7000 Yarn tension - 22Cn
  • 15. Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur 14 Weaving Weaving is the interlacement of the warp and weft, it can be plain or with different design. In a Morarjee Textile ltd. There are 100 automatic shuttle loom with dobby attachment and 74 plain loom s are there. One special attachment is there which produce leno weave with the help of half heald or cross heald which attached on heald shaft. Leno is the one of the most complicated weave which is producing Morarjee Textile ltd. Here is 6 to 24 heald shafts are according to the design which is operated by dobby. Here one special type of GUTHARA fabric is woven, this fabric is producing with high set of fabric and maximum fineness that much possible on cotton. Width of GUTHARA fabric is 56” to 65”. And GSM of the fabric is 90g. Machine specification: MACHINE MAKE MODEL NO. OF MACHINES LOOM NEW LOOM Lakshmi RUTI-C100 RUTI-C100 RUTI-C100 180cm 120cm 190cm 190CM 180CM 190CM 66 DOBBY 02 DOBBY 24 DOBBY 24 PLAIN 36 PLAIN 8DOBBY 14PLAIN TOTAL 174 Some stop motions are there which make loom highly automatic easy handling and it maintain the quality of fabric.  Warp stop motion  Automatic pirn changing  Temple motion
  • 16. Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur 15 DESIGN STUDIO
  • 17. Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur 16 Design Studio is the department which deals with the making, compiling & optimizing designs for the prints to be formed on the fabric. Its purpose is to optimize the designs in such a way that it can be printed on the fabric in the desired form irrespective of the fabric type and properties. The designs needs to be formed and separated in parts in such a way that it can be easily formed into screens for different colors to be printed. The studio deals with making the designs (in-house designing) or optimizing the designs sent by the buyers. Mostly, the designs to be printed are sent by the buyers themselves. The buyers send the designs in the format of a printed sheet, printed fabric or a soft copy of the image in CD. The designs sent in a hard form are then scanned and fed in the computer for optimization for printing. The optimized designs are then printed for sample production on paper and the desired fabric. The fabric sample or Strike-off is a small piece of the fabric which is printed with the ordered design. These samples are then sent to the buyer for further approval, after which the confirmation is done. If confirmed, the designs are sent to the printing department for bulk printing, if not, the sampling procedure is repeated with the variations or requirements demanded by the buyer until confirmation. Each design needs to be separated into different layers according to the colors to be used and the design pattern. Designs are separated or made on 2D graphic CAD systems like Photoshop, Corel Draw and Illustrator. These are separated through the color channels and are made in different layers of colors. Each separated layer is used to print only one color which is the part of the design. These layers are marked accordingly with unique numbers or alphabets in accordance to the sequence to be followed while printing; generally the sequence follows from dark to light colors. The design layer sizes are according to the size of the print design or the repeats in the design. The number of layers to be generated depends on the design pattern and shapes. Every layer is then printed separately on transparent sheets with black ink for engraving. Smaller prints with one repeat size of the design are printed for Strike-off sample and larger prints with multiple repeats are made for production. The design studio also decides which printing technique to be used for printing procedure for particular order, either Rotary or Flat bed. This decision is made on the basis of the design structure, size, complication, and order quantity. The design is then made accordingly with compliance to flat bed or rotary screen print machine.
  • 18. Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur 17 Flow Chart Buyer Marketing/HQ Design Studio Design Development Sample Production Sample Engraving Strike-Off Approval Production Engraving Printing If Approved If Not Approved
  • 19. Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur 18 PROCESSING
  • 20. Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur 19 Flow Chart Grieg Fabric Mercerization Singeing White BaseDye Base Open Width Bleach Stenter Dyeing Washing Stenter + Batching Printing Rope Form Ageing Finishing Sanforising
  • 21. Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur 20 Morarjee Textiles pulls its fabric through a series of processing operations to make it print ready & according to customer demand. These operations help to make the Morarjee’s speciality Guthra Voile. This process flow follows step-wise operations from Greig fabric to final product. Singeing- The Greig fabric is singed before further processing. Singeing makes the fabric quality even finer and improves its texture. Singeing results in clear print patterns, improved fabric surface, & prevents premature pilling of fabrics. Mercerization- It is one of the most important of all cotton finishes. This imparts luster to the cotton, increases its strength by nearly 25% and improves dye affinity, producing brighter shades than unmercerized cotton. It also enhances the hand as well as uses less dye to achieve the same depth of shade. The finish consists of treating the material while under tension with cold, concentrated sodium hydroxide solution. Bleaching- Bleaching is used to whiten the fabrics. It removes natural pigment and vegetable impurities or any other coloring material from natural fibers. It gives a bright white color to the fabric which is important to attain before dyeing or printing to give bright shades of color to the fabric. Bleaching agent used here is generally Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2). Two types of bleaching methods are used in Morarjee textiles namely Open width bleaching and Rope form bleaching. Open Width Bleaching- This bleaching process uses Jiggers (Jumbo Jigger, Yamuna Jigger, Atmospheric Jigger). Fabrics that needs to be dyed before printing or dyed for end use are bleached using this method because this method protects the fabric from getting wrinkles which can damage the dye effects Rope form bleaching- This method bleaches the fabric in a rope form. It uses Kier, Jet dyeing machine & Soft flow machine. This is used fir the fabrics which have to be printed on white base or have to be packed in white form itself; because this machine can put wrinkles in the fabric which do not cause any effect in printing. Stenter- The bleached fabric is then passed through stenter which helps fix its width and dries the fabric as well. The fabric is passed through water before passing through stenter and it also dries through he heated chambers of the stenter. Dyeing- Dried fabric from stenter is then took for the dyeing process. Morarjee uses Reactive dyes for dyeing the fabric. This industry uses Jiggers, Jumbo Jiggers, Yamuna Jiggers & Atmospheric jiggers for dyeing with cold or hot brand dyes. It also uses Pad Silicate dyeing method on Kuster padder. After padding, the fabric roll is kept under rotation for 12 hrs. for the dyeing process to complete. Ageing- The dyed fabric is then sent in the ager for fixation or curing of the dye.
  • 22. Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur 21 Washing- Aged fabric is then washed with water to remove the excess dyed molecules on the surface using a jigger. Printing- The washed fabric is the either sent directly for finishing or to the printing department for making prints depending on the order. Printing process uses rotary and flat bed screen printing method for making prints. The equipments used for printing are Zimmer-Austria(Rotary), Ichinose(Flat-Bed), M-Tex(Rotary), & Buser(Flat-Bed). The prints are made by discharge printing & Pigment Printing depending upon the sharpness and the print quality. Finishing- The printed fabric is the sent for finishing, where two major finishes are applied namely Soft finish & Stiff finish. These finishes are applied using jiggers or Primatex. These finishes are applied depeding upon the end use or as per the order. The finished fabric is then also Sanforised which improves its shrinkage resistivity and and fabric drape & handle.
  • 23. Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur 22 PRINTING SECTION
  • 24. Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur 23 PRINTING The process of applying colours to fabric in definite patterns or designs. Various colours applied to the fabric in sharply defined patterns. Also referred to as localised dyeing. METHODS OF PRINTING:  Screen Printing (Flat bed and Rotary)  Roller Printing PRINTING STYLES:  Direct Printing  Reactive print, Pigment print  Discharge Printing  Pigment Discharge print PROCESS FOR REACTIVE PRINT
  • 25. Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur 24 PROCESS FOR PIGMENT PRINT PROCESS FOR PIGMENT DISCHARGE PRINT CHEMICALS INVOLVED IN THE COMPOSITION OF PASTE Reactive paste  H2O  Sodium hexa Meta phosphate (0.5%, sequestering agent)  Print medium, Sodium Alginate (2%)  Thickener, CP-20/MTRT (2%)  Hygroscopic agent – UREA (10%) (FOR VISCOSE - Extra addition of 10% urea)  Mild oxidising agent, resist salt (1.5%)  Fixing agent alkali, Sodium bicarbonate (3.5%)  Glycerine (only for viscose)  For dark medium – 4%  For light medium – 2%
  • 26. Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur 25 Pigment paste  H2O  Binder (10-20%)  Crosslinking polymer  SL-1100 (2-5%)  Softener - FX-500  Rheology modifier (0.5-1.5%)  Fixing agent, LF (1-2%)  Ammonia – 1-2%  TEA – 1%  Discharge agent (10-20%)  Pidiprint 160 -3.5-5% PREPARATION OF SCREEN The screen preparation is carried out in the engraving department. Two types of screens are prepared:  Flat-bed screen  Rotary screen Flatbed Screen preparation:- The polyester bolting cloth is used for making the screen. The polyester bolting cloth stretched on the aluminium frame and stick at the side of the frame. Then solution of bluecoat 828 and thinner is applied on the screen after drying the screen, the screen exposing on exposing machine which print the design on the screen, the screen expose with the ultra violet light for hardening. After that the washing, checking, touching and final checking is done and screen is ready for printing. Rotary Screen preparation:- The thin nickel sheet is used for making the screen. Then solution of photo emulsion is applied on the screen after drying the screen, the screen exposing on exposing machine which expose the design on the screen. After that washing, checking, touching is done and screen is kept in the oven for 2 hrs. At 210°c for hardening. After that the end ring is fitted at both side of the screen and screen ready for printing.
  • 27. Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur 26 MACHINE SPECIFICATION ROTARY PRINTING MACHINE: Manufacture - Stomac Manufacturing year-1984 No.of colour-13 Function depend on-pneumatic pressure Printing width-1850cm Max speed-70mpm Screen used-nickel metal Printing blade-stainless steel Blanket width-2060mm Blanket lenth-16.5 metre Printing- warp wise Designing repeat-fix 64.2cm No.of dryer cylinder-4 Production capacity-6000-7000 mt BUSER FLAT BED PRINTING MACHINE: Manufacture - T.manikelal Manufacturing year-1980 No.of colour-10 Function depend on – hydraulic pressure Printing width-1575cm Max speed-7-8mpm Screen used-polyester bolting cloth Printing blade-rubber Blanket width-2000mm Blanket lenth-50.8mtr Printing- weft wise Designing repeat-variable upto3000mm No.of dryer cylinder-1
  • 28. Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur 27 ICHINOSE FLAT BED PRINTING MACHINE: Manufacture - Ichinose Manufacturing year-2006 No. of colour-12 Function depend on - pneumatic pressure Printing width-2100cm Max speed-10-18mpm Screen used-polyester bolting clot Printing blade-rubber Blanket width-2400mm Blanket lenth-61.5mtr Printing- weft wise Designing repeat-variable upto3040mm No.of dryer cylinder-1 ZIMMER PRINTING MACHINE: Manufacture- Zimmer Australia Manufacturing year-2011 No.of colour-08 Function depend on - pneumatic pressure Printing width-1950mm Max speed-100mpm Screen used-nickel metal Printing blade-magnetic rod Blanket width-2110mm Blanket lenth-18mtr Printing- weft wise Designing repeat-64.2-101.8cm No.of dryer cylinder-3
  • 29. Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur 28 TESTING
  • 30. Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur 29 OBJECTIVE OF TESTING:  Checking the quality and stability of raw material and selection of material  Monitoring of production i.e. process control  Assessment of final product, whether the quality is acceptable or not, (how will the yarn perform while weaving etc.?)  Investigation of faulty materials (analysis of customer complaint, identification of faults in machine etc.)  Product development and research.  Specification testing: specifications are formed and the materials are tested to prove whether they fall within the limits allowed in the specification (e.g. Specified by a customer) In Morarjee Textiles ltd. There are various services provided for quality control testing. Broad range of testing facilities are available for finished product, materials or components based on defined standards, regulation and customer requirements. Testing is done at different stages of product.  Fiber  Yarn  Fabric Fiber testing: third party out house testing is done for both cotton and viscose fiber. Yarn testing: yarn occupies the intermediate position in the manufacture of fabric from raw material therefore yarn result are essential both for estimating the quality of raw material and for controlling the quality of fabric produced. The important characteristics of yarn being tested are,  Yarn twist: twist is defined as the spiral decomposition of the components of yarn, which is expressed as the no. of turns per unit length e.g. tpi In Morarjee TPI tester machine is used in which 25 cm long sample is taken both the ends of the yarn is clamped and the whole yarn us untwisted according to its twist direction i.e. s twist or z twist and the no. of twist is noted down. If the twist is “z” then machine turn in clockwise and for “s” twist anticlockwise.  Yarn strength and elongation: machine used is Premier Tensomaxx 7000, the automatic tensile testing installation from Premier provides all the tensile characteristics such as breaking force, elongation, tenacity and work done. The graphical output, such as the Force Elongation Curve and the frequency distribution diagram enhance the possibilities of further analysis and interpretation. Premier Tensomaxx 7000 works on the principle of ‘CRE - constant rate of elongation’’. The yarn is automatically laid into the clamps and a load exerted till the yarn breaks. The signals generated by the movement of the jaws and from the load cells are processed to obtain various output information in the PC as well as in the printer.  Yarn evenness: machine used is classimate and premier IQ. Premier iQ is used for simultaneous measurement of yarn, roving/sliver for evenness and other properties from two independent testing towers. There is an intelligent alert prompts the user to look into specific 'exceptions' while testing slub and Fancy yarn measurement with Black board and Fabric simulation. Nep classification, foreign fiber and White PP Classification to fine tune the spinning
  • 31. Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur 30 preparatory process. Classimate works similarly as premier IQ machine but it detects every defect in the yarn and the length of defect. CLASSIMATE DETAILS: A4 Ring front zone dirty B4 Slub from ring department C4 Floating fibers, fly slub D4 More fluf in ring department E Double yarn (spinners double) A3 Neps, fluff, foreign matters, dirty drafting zone B3 Fluff in travelers unsuitable travelers bad piecing C3 Ring piecing etc D3 More fluff in ring department A2 bad condition of carding, blow room trash in yarn B2 fibers damage in process, spindle without aprons C2 Bad piecing in cans sliver entanglements etc. D2 Simplex gauge problem A1 Bad condition of carding blow room, trash in yarn B1 Fibers damage in process, spindle without aprons C1 Bad piecing in can sliver entanglement etc. D1 Floating fibers F Bad Piecing in ring, simplex back process etc G Bad Piecing in ring simplex(long thick places) H1 Mostly eccentric bobbins oc simplex and ring etc. (thin) I1 Mostly eccentric bobbins oc simplex and ring etc. (long thin) H2 Poor handling of materials during processes(thin) I2 This type of faults are produced by separation of sliver (long thin)
  • 32. Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur 31 Fabric testing: Fabric testing methods are designed as standard testing procedures with a purpose to help the textile industry monitor quality. Utilizing pre-determined testing methods for conducting tests, is the only way to maintain a consistent and level playing field in regard to the testing of textiles. The fabric tests conducted are: Physical test  Tearing strength  Tensile strength  Seam slippage  Seam strength  Fabric width  Dimension stability  Gsm Chemical test  Color fastness to rubbing  Color fastness to washing  Perspiration test
  • 33. Morarjee Textiles | Internship report | NIFT, Jodhpur 32 FABRIC INSPECTION The purpose of fabric inspection is to determine the quality and acceptability for our fabric. There are different method for inspection both RMG fabric and printed voile fabric. For printed fabric visual inspection is done. PROCESS: DESCRIPTION: Fabric plating: Open width manual layering of fabric takes place, the layer formed is of 1 yard. Cut look and inspection: visual inspection of printed fabric is done and the defected area is cut off. Roll fold: small roll of fabric is made of 30 to 60 yard according to customer’s requirement then open width fabric is rolled over paper roll with the help of roll fold machine. Shrink Packaging Machine Shrink packing: Shrink tunnels using a heated air system, it used for shrinkable films (PE POF PVC) that have been applied by L-bar sealers, sleeve wrappers, and sealing cutters. Designed for high production, the air flow technology is used to circulate the air to avoid bubbles and bumps in plastic film. Independent control systems regulate temperature, air velocity and conveyor speeds, our shrink tunnels feature carefully controlled air velocity and temperature that are maintained throughout the tunnel for optimum film shrink. The efficient heating system on each machine reduces the amount of electricity needed to run the machine, consequently reducing operating costs. Final packing process is done by packing 5 to 6 rolls of fabric in a carton and then manual repacking by plastic cover is done with all the specifications of packed material and customers details is written over it which is ready for shipment. fabric plating cut look and inspection roll fold shrink packing