This document discusses different types of sewing threads, their properties, and uses. It covers the following key points: 1. Sewing threads are classified as cotton threads or synthetic threads, with cotton having good strength but low extensibility, and synthetics having high strength and adjustable extensibility. 2. Important properties of sewing threads include sewability, tensile strength, abrasion resistance, resistance to high temperatures, and colorfastness. 3. Thread ticket numbers indicate the thread thickness - cotton is based on single yarn count while metric is based on single yarn count and number of plies. 4. Different types of sewing threads are used for various end uses like ready-made

1. Sewing threads and its
properties
By
k. chandran, Ts[p], IHTTKerala.

2. Sewing threads- classification
• 1.cotton threads
• 2.synthetic threads

3. Cotton threads
Soft spun
mercerised
glazed

4. Synthetic threads
• 1.staple spun----1.pure fibre component
• 2.blended yarn
3.core spun yarn.
• 2.filament yarn---1.flat filaments
• 2.multi filaments
• 3.texturised multifilament's

5. Properties of sewing threads
Cotton threads Synthetic threads
Good strength High strength
Low extensibility High adjustable
extensibility
Low shrinkage Very low shrinkage
Do not melt Melt at 250*c
Good abrasion
resistance
High abrasion resistance
Color fastness-fair Colorfastness-very good

6. Quality parameters of sewing
threads
• 1.sewability –it is the ability of the thread
to produce a seam with a minimum
number of breakages and damage to the
thread and the fabric during sewing.
• It is measured as continuous stitches per
breakages in related with stitch speed.

7. Thread performance
• Thread must ensure satisfactory
performance in the seam. It is expressed
by seam efficiency index [SEI].
• seam tensile strength
• SEI= ------------------------------ x 100
• fabric tensile strength

8. Tensile strength
• Thread must be capable of withstanding
the shock loading. That means it has to
bear several kinetic/ lateral movements
during sewing.

9. Abrasion resistance
• For example each length of thread in a lockstitch
seam sewn at 10 stitches per inch passes
through the needle eye about 40 times at a high
speed before being set in the seam.
• Frictional properties should be uniform so that
equal length of thread are pulled forward for
each stitch and each stitch pull is equally tight.
• It is observed that 20-30%thread breakages are
during this movement through the needle eye.
• Therefore uniformity, smooth surface ,less
hairiness, and less friction has to be ensured in
sewing thread.

10. Resistance to higher temperature
• As sewing is done in high speed which
causes needle temperature to rise even
upto 300*c due to friction the thread
should withstand this.
• Low thermal shrinkage and adequate
extensibility are required properties of
good sewing thread.

11. Balanced structure
• It is resultant of twist setting during thread
manufacturing.

12. Properties related with colour
• Sewing thread used should be of uniformly
dyed and matched with required shade.
• Colour fastness should also be tested at
required level.

13. Different types of sewing thread
available in market.
Type of thread Ticket number
1. Spun polyester 05,07,10,20,25,40,
50,60,70,80,100,
120,150,180.
2. Cotton soft threads 02,10,20,30,40,50,
60.
3. Mercerized cotton 10,12,30,40,50,60.
4. Polished/glazed threads 02,07,08,10,12,18,
24,30.
5. Handicraft threads 000,008,12,16,20,2
4,40,50.

14. 6. Core spun threads
Polyester/cotton
15,25,35,36,50,75.
7. Continuous nylon
filament
05,10,15,20,30,40,
60,90.
8. Continuous polyester
filament
120,180.

15. What is ticket number ?
• Basically ticket number is based on the
fineness of the input single yarn. the
amount of count of finished thread will not
depend only on its single input count and
ply but also on type of colour, finishes
applied, and other process sequences it is
subjected to. Therefore the industry
wanted to differentiate their thread by
giving ticket nos.

16. Ticket no's are in two systems
• 1. cotton ticket no’s are
• single yarn count in NE x 3
• no’s of ply
• 2.metric ticket no’s are
• single yarn count in NM x 3
• no’s of ply.

17. Type of threads and their ticket
numbers for different uses
End use. Type of thread Ticket number
1. RMG-shirt,
blouse, light
fabrics
100%spun
polyester
Cotton soft.
80,90
50,60.
2. trousers 100%spun
polyester
70
3. jeans ---do-------
Cotton gm
Polyester/cotton
core spun.
20,25.
10,30.
25,36,50,75.

18. 4. Retailers threads 100%spun
polyester
70,80,90.
5. Shirt/light
fabrics/trousers
Cotton soft/
gm
40,50,60.
6. Woollen suits ---- do ---- 10,20,30,40.
7. Small bag
stitching
Cotton soft 10.
8. upholstery Cotton soft 30.

19. 9. Hosiery threads Cotton soft 40,60.
10
.
Embroidery threads,
crochet ,tatting, etc..
Cotton gm 25 [12/31]
20 [6/24]
40 [6/40].
11
.
Machine embroidery
threads
---- do ----&
Rayon's
50
120 dx2
12 Zippers stitching Continuous
polyester
filament
120,180.

20. Major brands in sewing threads
Coats viyella vardhman Modi threads
astra tora Modi arrow
ameto
epic hammer Modi synth
moon
supersheen panda ultracord
gun spectrum
spade superseam