This document discusses different yarn counting systems and yarn modification. It describes three main yarn counting systems: direct, indirect, and universal/tex. The direct system measures weight per unit length, indirect measures length per unit weight, and tex is a direct system applicable to natural and synthetic yarns. It also outlines various yarn modification techniques like texturizing and novelty yarns which are made for appearance and include slub, fleck, spiral and boucle yarns.

1. YARN COUNT &YARNYARN COUNT &YARN
MODIFICATIONMODIFICATION

3. YARN COUNT/YARN SIZE/ YARNYARN COUNT/YARN SIZE/ YARN
NUMBERNUMBER
It can also be called Yarn number or Linear
Density.
The count of a yarn is a
numerical expression which
defines its Fineness

4. The different systems of expressing the yarn
number are:
Theses systems depends on the material used for
preparing the yarn are
1. DIRECT SYSTEM
2. UNIVERSAL SYSTEM OR TEX SYSTEM
3. INDIRECT SYSTEM
1. DIRECT SYSTEM
2. UNIVERSAL SYSTEM OR TEX SYSTEM
3. INDIRECT SYSTEM

5. DIRECT SYSTEM =
INDIRECT SYSTEM =
weight per unit of length of yarn
length per unit of weight of yarn

6. DIRECT SYSTEM (Denier)DIRECT SYSTEM (Denier)
The denier of the yarn is the number of
unit of weight per unit of length.
The unit of length remains constant.
This system is used for silk, jute and manmade
fibers.
The smaller the number, finer the yarn.
Denier =
Weight in Grams
Length in 9000 m

7. UNIVERSAL SYSTEM (Tex)UNIVERSAL SYSTEM (Tex)
Tex system can be used from fiber to yarn stage.
This is a direct system of yarn numbering.
It is applicable to both natural and synthetic yarns.
Tex is defined as the weight of the yarn in grams
present in 1000 m or 1 km length.
Tex= Weight in
Grams
Length in 1000 m or 1
km
Tex= Weight in
Grams
Length in 1000 m or 1
km

9. INDIRECT SYSTEM (Count)INDIRECT SYSTEM (Count)
• Count is the number of units of length per unit of
weight of yarn.
• The unit of weight remains constant.
• It is used for cotton, wool, worsted yarns and linen
etc.
• The lower the count ,the coarser the yarn.
• This system is also referred as Cotton system.
• The count of the yarn is defined as number of hanks to
a pound.

10. INDIRECT SYSTEMINDIRECT SYSTEM
Cotton count
Wool count
Worsted count
Metric count
Several indirect systems are used in practice
depending on the type of yarn produced, and the
spinning system.

11. Cotton CountCotton Count
• For cotton yarns, the “English” or “cotton”
count is used to express yarn fineness.
• The unit of length in an “English” count
system is the hank, 840 yd, and the unit of
weight is 1 lb.
No. of (840 yards) / 1 pound

14. An example of Indirect SystemAn example of Indirect System
• If 40 Hanks each containing 840 yards of the yarn
weigh 1 lb, then the yarn count is 40 and will be
expressed as “40s” where ‘s’ stands for singles.
• If yarns of different count are twisted each count
is mentioned, as for e.g. 20/30s indicates twisting
together of a single 20s yarn and single 30s yarn.

16. Woolen /Worsted CountWoolen /Worsted Count
For wool yarns, two indirect systems are
commonly used:
(i) the Woolen system, and
(ii) the Worsted system.
• In the Woolen system, the unit length (or the
hank) is 256 yards, and the unit of weight is
pound.
• In the Worsted system, the unit length (or the
hank) is 560 yards, and the unit of weight is
pound.

17. Metric SystemMetric System
"Metric" system is commonly used in
Europe.
In this system, the unit length is
kilometer, and the unit of mass is kg.

19. System Formula
Direct: weight per unit of length of yarn
Denier Weight in Grams/9000 m length
Tex Weight in Grams/1000 m length
Indirect: length per unit of weight of yarn
Cotton Count No. unit length (840 yards) / 1 pound
Wool Count No. unit length (256 yards) / 1 pound
Worsted Count No. unit length (560 yards) / 1 pound
Metric count No. unit length (1 km) / 1 kg

20. Yarn count conversion formula:

21. Fiber to Yarn Conversion System

22. Beesley BalancesBeesley Balances

23. S / J S / J
Count GSM Count GSM
22 220 30 160
24 180 30 190
24 180 30 150
24 160 30 160
26 160 30 180
26 180 34 140
26 170 34 140
28 140 40 120
28 180 40 120
28 160 40 110
28 155 50 100
30 140 50 90
30 150
Study of the relation of count and G.S.M
GSM:
GSM means the weight in gram per square meter of fabric.

24. S/J Lycra
Actual count GSM
30.0266 245
30.0266 200
30.0266 200
30.0266 200
30.0266 230
30.0266 210
30.0266 210
30.0266 200
34.0266 165
34.0266 165
34.0266 190
34.0266 165
40.0266 145
40.0266 150
40.0266 150
Interlock
Count GSM
46 172
46 172
40 195
40 195
34 230
36 200
36 220
Double Lacost
Count GSM
24 220
24 220
24 220
24 220
26 220
26 160
1 X 1 Rib 1 X 1 Rib
Count GSM Count GSM
22 255 30 220
22 190 30 200
24 240 30 190
24 180 30 220
24 230 30 180
26 240 30 230
26 230 30 230
28 220 34 170
28 200 34 180
28 200 34 180
28 220 34 195
28 230
2X2 Rib
Count GSM
28 220
28 220
28 320
28.0076 300

25. Fabric Constants
Single jersey y = -3.3465x + 256.56
Single jersey lycra y = -6.6089x + 407.04
Single lacoste y = -5.695x + 340.59
Double lacoste y = -15x + 580
11 Rib y = -4.496x + 342.35
22 Rib y = 6140.4x – 171676
Interlock y = -4.3074x + 368.78
Equations at a glance

26. Yarn ModificationYarn Modification

27. Yarn processing is the first series of operation
The steps varies for different fibers
In making fiber into yarns there are two types of
processes –
1- General process- Common to many yarns.
2- Texturizing process- To obtain special textured
effect,extra bulk,stretch
or a combination of all.
(5)
Processing of
yarns

28. 2. Texturizing process imparts-
a). a permanent loop, curl or crimp to individual
filament
b). more opaque
c). have a different appearance or feel
warmth
d). more absorbent
e). non-pilling quality
f). greater durability
g). moisture absorbent

29. filament yarns—bulk yarns
methods of adding texture/bulk:
•false-twist process
•draw-texturing
•stuffer box
•air-jet
•knit-deknit

33. Single yarn
(Product of
first twisting
operation)
Ply yarn
(Product of
second twisting
operation)
Cord
(Product of
third twisting
operation)
(10)

34. 2. Novelty yarn – Made for their appearance
value.
• Irregular in size, twist and effect.
Has three basic parts-
1. The ground or foundation
2. The fancy or effect
3. The binder
That are loose and bulky give crease resistance to
fabric.
 Add interest to plain weave fabric.
 If used in one direction, usually in filling
direction.
(11)

35.  Different type of novelty yarns:-
1-Slub Yarn
-
2- Flock Yarn
3-Spiral Yarn
(12)

36. 4-Ratine Yarn
5-Boucle Yarn
6-Knot Yarn

37. 7-Core Spun Yarn
8-Metallic
Yarn
(14)
9-Chenille Yarn

39. 39
SLUB YARNSLUB YARN
A slub yarn is one in which slubs have been
deliberately created to produce the desired
discontinuity of effect.
Slubs are thick places in the yarn.

40. 40
FLECK YARNFLECK YARN
Small amounts of fibres of either different
colours or lustre or both are introduced into
the yarn.
This gives it a spotted and short streaky
appearance

41. 41
SNARL YARNSNARL YARN
It is same as loop yarns except that the
looping yarn has high twist so that the
Loop turns into a snarl

42. 42
LOOP YARNLOOP YARN
A loop yarn consists of a core with an effect
yarn wrapped around it
and overfed so as to produce almost circular
projections on its surface.
As a general rule, four yarns are involved, of
which two form the core or ‘ground’ yarns.

43. 43
BOUCLE YARNBOUCLE YARN
This is a compound yarn comprising a twisted
core with an effect yarn combined with it so
as to produce wavy projections on its surface.

44. 44
A spiral or corkscrew yarn is a plied yarn that
displays a characteristic smooth spiraling of
one component around the other.
it can be produced relatively simply on a
doubling frame or under the ring spinning
system.

45. yarn name:
boucle
yarn type:
spun
twist direction:
S
amount of twist:
low
yarn appearance:
texturized
fiber content:
100% acrylic
end uses:
bulk yarn

46. yarn name:
4-ply
yarn type:
spun
twist direction:
S
amount of twist:
medium
yarn appearance:
carded woolen
fiber content:
86% acrylic
10% wool
4% rayon
end uses:
blended yarn

47. yarn name:
hand quilting thread
yarn type:
spun & filament
twist direction:
Z
amount of twist:
high
yarn appearance:
combed
fiber content:
68% polyester (core)
32% cotton
end uses:
combination yarn

48. yarn name:
textured
yarn type:
combination
twist direction:
Z
amount of twist:
medium
yarn appearance:
texturized
fiber content:
52% acrylic
48% nylon
end uses:
blended yarn

49. yarn name:
4 ply with metallic
yarn type:
spun & monofilament
twist direction:
Z
amount of twist:
medium
yarn appearance:
combed
fiber content:
97% mercerized cotton
3% metallic filament
end uses:
combination yarn

50. On the basis Of specialOn the basis Of special
useuse
 Some special used yarns are:-
1- Sewing thread
2- Embroidery thread (25)

51. (8)