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AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201
1
A
REPORT
on
SUMMER TRAINING
on
Study on Garment inspection system and Testing process of garments and
dyeing process
Duration: -
Submitted to:
FACULTY OF ENGINEERING & TECHNOLOGY
RAJASTHAN TECHNICAL UNIVERSITY, KOTA
for
The Partial Fulfilment of the Requirements for Degree of Bachelor of
Technology in
(TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY)
BY: AKSHAY SEN
Under the guidance and supervision of
Mr. Prakash khude
MLV TEXTILE & ENGINEERING COLLEGE BHILWARA(Raj.)
(An Autonomous Engineering College of the Rajasthan Govt.)
2020-2021
AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201
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Acknowledgement
It gives me a great sense of pleasure to present the report of B. TECH
project undertaken during B. TECH 4rd year. Project Study on garment
inspection system testing of garments and dyeing process
I own special debt of gratitude to Mr. PRAKASH KUDE department
of textile technology, MLVTECH, BHILWARA for this constant
support and guidance throughout the course of my work. His sincerity
thoroughness and perseverance have been constant sources of
inspiration for us. It is only his cognizant effort that my endeavors have
been light of the day.
I also take the opportunity to acknowledge the contribution of
DHIRENDRA SHARMA (principal sir), MLVTECH, and
BHILWARA for his full support and assistance during the project
work.
BY: -
AKSHAY SEN
AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201
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Abstract
The inspection that is done for controlling the quality of garments is mainly meant to examine
in bare eyes. Checking of the fabrics of garments, sewing, button, thread, zipper, measurements
of garments etc. with the standard process is called the inspection. In each section of a garments
industry, there are arrangements for inspection. The main purpose of inspection is to identify
the faults at the earliest possible steps for production of garments and earlier the defects will
be detected lesser will be the wastage of time and money.
Fabric testing and garment inspection plays a crucial role in gauging product quality, assuring
regulatory compliance and assessing the performance of textile materials. It provides
information about the physical or structural properties and the performance properties of the
fabrics. Inspection Identify faults of fabric for manufacturing process Today more and more
countries and markets have a stake in the treatment and testing of fabric. As consumers become
more aware and more demanding of products, the number of tests required for textile fabrics
has grown. As a result, the testing of fabrics is increasingly varied, in constant flux and full of
the unprecedented challenges of globalization. This introductory chapter describes the
importance, scope, current status and future trends in fabric testing. Key words: scope of fabric
testing, importance of fabric testing, future of fabric testing, standards for tests
Garment dyeing are the process of dyeing fully fashioned garments (such as pants, t-shirts,
jeans, sweaters, dresses, bathrobes, casual jackets, shirts, hosieries) subsequent to
manufacturing, as opposed to the conventional method of manufacturing garments from pre-
dyed fabrics. Interlining is a very important in apparel manufacturing. Interlining is one kind
of accessories that is used between the two layers of fabric in a garment. To keep the different
component or part of apparel in a desired shape, a kind of fabric is used between the two plies
of fabric by sewing or fusing is called interlining. Due to cost savings and fashion trends,
garment dyeing has been gaining importance and popularity in the past years and will continue
to do so in the future. Key Words: Garment dyeing, woven fabric, interlining, sewing, fusing,
coating.
AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201
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INDEX
S.NO. CONTENT PAGE
NUMBER
1 Acknowledgement 2
2 Abstract 3
3 Introduction 5
4 Garment inspection 5
5 AQL 6
6 4-point inspection system 8
7 10-point system 9
8 Dallas System and Traffic Light System 10
9 Graniteville "78" system 11
10 7 QC Tools in Apparel Industry 12
11 Testing of garments 13
12
13
fabric defects
garments dyeing process
25
26
14 Textile product labelling 29
15 Brand labels of cloths 31
16 CONCLUSION 32
17 REFRENCES 33
AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201
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Introduction
The inspection that is done for controlling the quality of garments is mainly meant to examine
in bare eyes. Checking of the fabrics of garments, sewing, button, thread, zipper, measurements
of garments etc. with the standard process is called the inspection. In each section of a garments
industry, there are arrangements for inspection. The main purpose of inspection is to identify
the faults at the earliest possible steps for production of garments and earlier the defects will
be detected lesser will be the wastage of time and money.
The aim of garment inspection is to visually inspect articles at random from a delivery in order
to verify their general conformity and appearance with instruction/description and/or sample
received. There are different types of inspection following by inspectors as requirement of
consumers.
There are different types of inspection following by inspectors as requirement of consumers
What is quality control?
The method of checking, analysing, verification and controlling the desired or expected
quality parameters of the garments is said to be quality control.
Garment inspection:-
Inspection can be defined, in the apparel industry, as the visual examination or review of raw
materials (such as fabric, Buttons, Zippers, Sewing threads, Trims, etc), partially finished
components of the garments and completely finished garments in relation to some standards,
specifications or requirements, as well as measuring the garments if they meet the required
measurements.
AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201
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Pre-Production check: -This is done before production starts. Where then is a final
verification of the material used; style, cut and workmanship of the garment or pre-production
sample as per the customer Requirements.
Initial production check: -This is done at the start of production where a first batch of
garments is inspected; to distinguish possible discrepancies/variation and to allow from the
necessary corrections to be made bulk production. The inspection is a preliminary stage
covering mainly style and general appearance, workmanship, measurements, quality of fabrics,
components, weight, colour and/or printing.
During production check: -This is done during production to ensure initial
discrepancies/variations have been rectified. This inspection is in fact the follow -up of the
initial production check and is generally carried out a few days after the initial inspection,
especially if discrepancies have been detected at that time.
Final Random Inspection: - This is carried out when the production of the total quantity of
an order or partial delivery is completed. A sample lot will be selected from the order and a
percentage of the garments will be inspected; this percentage usually being stipulated by the
buyer. The AQL sampling inspection may be applied or another inspection system designed by
the buyer.
AQL
Inspection Methods: -
Single sampling plan – Normal inspection
Assurance as AQL 2.5% and a lot of 1,200 garments and the sample size is 80 garments. If the
number of defective garments found is 5 the total lot is “Acceptable” suppose if the garments
found is 6, the total lot is “Reject/Re-Check”.
Double sampling plan – normal inspection
Assurance an AQL 4.0% and lot size is 1,200 garments and the sample size is 80 garments. If
the number of defective garments found is 7, the total lot is “Acceptable” suppose if the
defective garments found are 8, the total lot is “Reject/Re-check”. Today most of the customer
demand for high-quality products at low prices.
So, we should maintain the quality from the beginning stage of the production then only the
final product with reach the consumer with right quality and we can get the order continuously
from our customers. The garment manufacturers inspect their products continuously by
designated responsible inspectors then only the right quality product will reach the consumers.
AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201
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Acceptable Quality Level in the Apparel Industry
Acceptable quality level can be classified into 3 different criteria, namely critical, major and
minor defects and are used by importers to set the maximum number of defective units, beyond
which a batch will be rejected. For example, importers will sate ‘I want no more than 2.5%
defective items in total of the entire over quantity, on average over several production runs
with the supplier.’
The quality level tool is usually used during the final outgoing inspections when the products
are ready to be shipped out and are done on a sampling basis. It is crucial to understand that
the acceptable quality level should not be used as a measure for preventing quality issues of
defects. Relying on final inspections to identify any defective products or quality issues will
result in major delays in production and will be a waste of time and money. It is almost
impossible to eliminate defective products completely. They occur in virtually every batch and
can occur even after manufacturers have checked individual products since visual inspections
aren't 100% full proof. Therefore, it’s important to ensure that your raw materials are up to the
standard and quality of the type of quality products you expect to produce. If your raw materials
are substandard, to begin with, you’ll risk experiencing significant quality issues during the
final stages of production. Having control over the quality of your raw materials will reduce
quality risks by up to 70%.
For example, we have a shipment of 120 pieces. If we want to do the 2.5 AQL inspection. First of all,
we need to specify the lot size for that quantity. From the table we find that the lot size is 91 – 150
named code – F. So, the sample size will be 20 pieces and have to pick 20 pieces to check.
Now, look at the 2.5 AQL column to see the acceptance and rejection criteria. After checking if we find
1-piece defective items this lot will accept for shipment and if we find 2 or more defective items this
lot will reject for shipment.
1. Critical defects: Garment must be 100% accurate. (There is no range, and critical defects are
entirely unacceptable.)
2. Major defects: Normally 2.5% (products would be considered unacceptable by end users)
3. Minor defects: Normally 4% (product slightly doesn’t meet specifications, but end user won’t
mind it.)
4. Slight defects: Normally 6.5% (defect is only recognizable internally)
AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201
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4 Point System
Four Point System: -
Most of the apparel industry prefer Four Point rating system for determining fabric quality, and it is
certified by the American Society for Quality Control (ASQC) as well as the American Apparel
Manufacturers (AAMA). The 4-Point System assigns 1, 2, 3 and 4 penalty points according to the
size, quality, and significance of the defect. No more than 4 penalty points is assigned for any single
flaw. A defect can be measured either length or width direction; the system remains the same. Only
major errors are considered. No penalty points are assigned to minor defects.
Defect Classification
Whenever errors are recognized during fabric inspection under 4 points system and defect must be
assigned a number of points depending on the severity or length.
Inches (˝) (mm) Points
From 0 > 3″ length/width Up to 75mm 1 point
From 3.1″ > 6″ length/width 75mm > 150mm 2 points
From 6.1″ > 9″ length/width 150mm > 230mm 3 points
More than 9″ length/width More than 230mm 4 points
The formula to compute penalty points per 100 square yards is given by= (Total points scored in the
roll * 3600) / Fabric width in inches * Total yards inspected
Example: A fabric roll 150 yards long and 56“ wide contains following defects.
6 defects up to 3“length
4 defects from 3“to 6“length
2 defects from 6“to 9“length
1 defect over 9“length
1 hole over 1“
6 x 1
4 X 2
2 X 3
1 X 4
1 X 4
6 points
8 points
6 points
4 points
4 points
Total defect points 28 Points
Therefore,
Points/square yards
= (28 X 3600)/(56 X 150)
= 12 points
the total defect points in each 100 square yards being below 40, this roll of fabric may be accepted. If
defects point above 40 in 100 square yds, then fabric will be rejected. It may be mentioned here that the
limit or level of acceptability of fabric is ascertained by the buyer & seller of the fabric. How much the
difference in length & in width in the fabric's rolls will be accepted also depends on the written contract
between buyer & seller of the fabric.
Holes and openings (the largest dimension)
1“or less 2
Over 1“ 4
AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201
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10 Points System
For production of high-quality garments, need high quality piece goods. It is an universal
truth. When a sewing factory receives fabric from the mill, it is difficult to conduct a full
100% inspection of the fabric. So then minimum 10% inspection of all piece goods prior to
spreading the fabric. There are several methods of fabric inspection in garments industry. Ten
Points system is one of them.
The 10-point method is a point per fault system, which gives a measurable guide to quality
grading per roll. In 1955s “Ten Points” piece goods evaluation was adapted by the Textile
Distributors and National Federation of Textiles. The system assigns penalty points to each
defect as per following guideline. the length of the fabric. If the points exceed the length of
fabric in a roll, then it is considered ‘seconds’ and may be rejected. Suppose if the fabric roll
having a length of 50 yards is inspected in a ten-point system and the total penalty points are
less than 50. Then the fabric roll was considered good
Under the Ten-Point System, a piece is graded a "first" if the total penalty points do not exceed
the total yardage of the piece. A piece is graded a "second" if the total penalty points exceed
the total yardage of the piece.
For example: A fabric roll of size 120 yards x 46 inch is inspected and the following defects are found:
Since, the defect points (97 points) < fabric yardage (120 yards), this fabric roll is of ‘first’ grade.
AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201
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Dallas System
This system was developed in 1970s specifically for knits. It was approved by Dallas
Manufacturers Association. According to this system, if any defect was found on a finished
garment, the garment would then be termed as a "second". For fabrics, this system defines a
second as "more than one defect per ten linear yards, calculated to the nearest ten yards". For
example, one piece 60 yards long would be allowed to have six defects.
Traffic Light System
like other quality inspection tools, the traffic light inspection system is widely used in garment
quality inspection. This system is used to stop producing defect at the source. This is a random
inspection system. Traffic light system is more effective in controlling shop floor quality than
other quality tools because of its visual communication
the formats used for displaying as well as recording audit report. The format is very simple to
use and to understand. The format is printed on a slightly thick A4 sheet and hanged on the
sewing machine. In this system quality auditor visit operator’s workplace 4 times in a day
(considering 8 hours shift day) and inspects stitched garments and fill circles with colour
according to the inspection result. In the initial stage when this format had been introduced by
JC Penny for their supplier, they instructed to inspect 7 pieces from the stitch garments and if
auditor found any defective piece respective circle to be filled by RED color. If red color is
marked on the inspection sheet, all stitched pieces must be checked by an auditor. And operator
needs to be explained about the quality expected from him/her and how to get that expected
quality. In some case, operators need more practice to get right quality pieces.
The sample size is reduced as a quality auditor does not get 7 pieces at a time of inspection at
most of the workstations. This happens due to low work in process (WIP) in between two
workstations. Standard Sample Size: 5 pieces. Garment Inspection to be done after every two
hours.
(Garments inspection m/c)
AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201
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Graniteville "78" system
This system was introduced in 1975 for the field of fabric grading. The system divides defects
into major and minor types. The major defect is one, which is very obvious and leads the goods
to second quality. The minor defect is one, which may or may not have caused garment to
second, depending on its location in the end use item.
The following points are noteworthy in this system:
1) The principle was established in garment cutting piece, in which, the short length
defects (less than 9") will normally be removed.
2) The system tries to balance the importance of longer defects (over 9") and put less
weight on 1-10" defects such as slubs.
3) The system also suggests the viewing distance of 9 foot instead of normal 3-foot
viewing distance.
4) The system tends to eliminate very small defects from the total penalty score.
5) This is mostly recommended for use, where larger garments are to be cut with fabrics
of wider widths.
General Inspection Procedures fabric
1. Fabric inspection is done in suitable and safe environment with enough ventilation and
proper lighting.
2. Fabric passing through the inspection frame must be between 45 - 60-degree angles to
inspector and must be done on appropriate Cool White light above viewing area. Back
light can be used as and when needed.
3. Fabric speed on inspection machine must not be more than 15 yards per minute.
4. All fabric inspection must be done when 80% of good or lot is received.
5. Standard approved bulk dye lot standards for all approved lots must be available prior
to inspection.
6. Approved standard of bulk dye lot must be available before starting inspection for
assessing colour, hand, weight, construction, finish and visual appearance.
7. Shade continuity within a roll by checking shade variation between centre and selvage
and the beginning, middle and end of each roll must be evaluated and documented.
8. Textiles like knits must be evaluated for weight against standard approved weight.
9. Fabric width must be checked from selvage to selvage against standard.
10. All defects must be flagged during inspection.
AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201
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7 QC Tools in Apparel Industry
1. Histogram
2. Check Sheet (Tally Sheet)
3. Cause-and-Effect Diagram
4. Pareto Chart
5. Scatter Diagram
6. Control Chart
7. Stratification
Benefits of 7 QC Tools
▪ Improve management decision-making skills
▪ Collect, present, Identify and analyses data
▪ Implement Six Sigma
▪ Control cost of poor quality
▪ Reduce variations and improve quality
Histogram: -The histogram is also a bar chart. It is a graphical chart based on numeric value for
showing the frequency distribution of the database. People become confused among Histograms and
Bar Charts. A histogram is used for continuous data
Check Sheet (Tally Sheet):-The Check Sheet/Tally sheet is a simple document that is used for
collecting data in real-time and at the location where the data is generated. A document is typically a
blank form that is designed for the quick, easy, and efficient recording of the desired information
Cause-and-effect diagram: - A cause-and-effect diagram looks like a fish that’s why it’s
called Fishbone Diagram, also called Ishikawa diagram, herringbone diagrams or Ishikawa
diagrams, a visualization tool for categorizing the potential causes of a problem in order to
identify its root causes
Pareto Chart (80/20 Rule): - The Pareto principle (also known as the 80–20 rule, the law of
the vital few, and the principle of factor sparsity) states that, for many events, roughly 80% of
the effects come from 20% of the causes. More generally, the Pareto Principle is the
observation (not law) that most things in life are not distributed evenly.
Scatter Diagram: -The scatter diagram graphs pairs of numerical data, with one variable on
each axis, to look for a relationship between them. If the variables are correlated, the points
will fall along a line or curve. The better the correlation,
Control charts:- also known as Shewhart charts or process-behaviour charts, are a statistical
process control tool used to determine if a manufacturing or business process is in a state of
control. A control chart shows how data frequency changes
flow chart or run chart: -Stratification is a method of dividing data into, division, class, or
level that helps in deriving meaningful information to understand an existing problem.
AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201
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Testing of garments
Definition: -If you work at Garment production, you will know that garments are always
checked and inspected at various stages. The garment checking method is the steps and
methods for testing garments quality before it is distributed. Before we can make a garment,
we make use of fibres, yarns and fabric and finally the textile plays an important role in
Garment quality. That is why we need to understand the concept of Textile testing. Garment
checking method is the method of testing all what is used in making the garment. Garment
checking simply encompasses checking and testing the textile quality, the fabric, the yarn and
the fibre.
The Concept of Textile Quality: - Textile quality refers to the sum of various properties of
textiles that meet the needs of people for use or further processing
What is Fabric Testing: - Normally garment is produced from fabric. The fabric can
be woven or knitted or knit fabric, solid colour dyed, printed, check, or stripe that is finished
fabric. Before making garments from those fabrics especially for large quantities it is
called fabrics testing.
Objects of Fabrics Testing:
1. To check that the fabric conforms to fabric specification.
2. To note the effect of changes in structural details.
3. To note the effect of physical and chemical treatment, exposure to weather or
laundering or washing, etc.
4. To obtain some identification of probable performance in use.
5. To investigate the causes of failure and customers complain.
Types of Textile testing
• Fibre test: identification of fibre length, elongation and strength, etc.
• Yarn test: yarn count, strength, appearance, twist per unit length, etc.
• Fabric test: thermal properties, air permeability, thickness, shrinkage, stiffness,
elongation, width, crease resistance, number of ends and picks per unit length, weight
of fabric per unit length, etc.
GSM Cutter:
GSM means gram by square meter, and the weight of the textile which includes both knit,
woven and non-woven is the designation, as the name implies. It’s a basic tool used to cut a
tissue sample for the measurement of the gsm of the textile. The measurement of the fabric is
11.2 cm in diameter. The sample shall be measured and computed for GSM after cutting.
Working Procedure: The woven, knit, denim fabric with the GSM cutter should be cut at first.
The textiles are grosser, and fabrics are completely coarser than the tissues. We use scissors
AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201
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here to cut the tissue Maintain the weight of the tissue in the electric balance machine after
completely cutting the tissue.
Digital Fabric Testing Instrument: -
Digital Fabric Testing Instrument determines the thickness of jari, yarn, fabric, paper, and
film samples etc. accurately. In Digital Fabric Thickness Gauge, the fabric whose thickness is
to be determined is kept on a flat anvil and a circular pressure foot is pressed on to it from the
top under a standard fixed load.
How Digital Fabric Thickness Gauge Works?
1. The fabric sample that is to be measured is kept on an anvil.
2. The press foot is gently lowered on to the specimen.
3. The reading is taken to get the thickness of the specimen.
4. The mean value of all the readings of thickness determined to the nearest 0.01m is
calculated and the result is the average thickness of the sample under test.
Martindale Abrasion cum Pilling Tester: - is used to check the abrasion as well as pilling
resistance of the fabric. It consists of four testing plates on which the abrading fabrics is
attached, these four-testing table are mounted on the base plate of the instrument. There is
revolving plate, which revolves with the help of three cranks, pegs & motor.
How Martindale Abrasion cum Pilling Tester works?
1. 4 specimens of each sample can be tested in each of the specimen holder of the machine.
2. Inspect the specimens without removing them from the holders at regular intervals and
note the number of rubs when at least two threads are broken.
AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201
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3. This should be assessed independently for each specimen and the specimens removed
when they reach end point.
Average weight loss
1. Abrade two specimens to end points as in above case and then abrade further pairs of
specimens.
2. Weight all the specimens before and after abrasion and plot a graph of weight loss
against the number of rubs.
3. Draw a line through the points and determine the rate of weight loss in mg per 1000
rubs if reasonably linear.
Stiffness Tester: -Stiffness Tester is used to determine the stiffness of fabrics.
Stiffness provides a quick and accurate method of determining stiffness properties such as
flexural rigidity of most textile fabrics and other flexible materials. The principle of Cantilever
Test method is used in it.
How Stiffness Tester works?
1. The Stiffness Tester is placed on a level surface and the levels are checked with
the help of the sprit level.
2. The fabric specimen has to be cut into a size of 150 x 25 mm, with the help of
Acrylic Specimen Preparing Template.
3. The test specimen has to be placed flat on the platform of the instrument.
4. The calibrated scale is gently put on the fabric.
5. The marking on the acrylic plate of the Stiffness Tester has to be viewed in the
mirror.
6. The scale has to be then gently slide till the leading edges of the test specimen
moves away from the scale and bends down till it touches the two inclined lines.
7. Flexural rigidity and Bending modulus are then calculated using the appropriate
formula.
Water Repellency Tester: Water Repellency Tester measures the resistance of fabrics to wetting by
water. Water is used to check the water repellency of the fabric by spray test in textile testing laboratory.
Suitable for Table cloth, tapestry, flooring material fabric manufacturer or processors.
AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201
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How Water Repellency Tester Works?
1. Before testing is carried out the specimen shall be conditioned for at least 24 hours in
the standard atmosphere. Water sprayed against the taut surface of a test specimen
under controlled conditions produces a wetted pattern whose size depends on the
relative repellency of the fabric.
2. To carry out the test, first of all fasten the test specimens securely in the metal hoop of
the water repellency tester so that it represents a smooth wrinkle free surface and place
it face up on the tester.
3. Adjust the metal hoop so that the center of the spray coincides with the centre of the
metal hoop. Later pour 250 ml of distilled water at normal temperature into the funnel
and spray the whole quantity on the test specimen for a period of 25 – 30 sec.
4. Then rotate it 180°C and similarly tap again once on the point previously held to
remove any excess water drop.
5. The final step is to compare the wetting of the test specimen with a photographic rating
standard and grade it accordingly.
Impact Penetration Tester:
Water Impact Penetration Tester tests water penetration resistance of the garment fabrics. Its
aim is to test the water absorbency –resistance degree for Waterproof fabric or other material.
It is a standard procedure for determining the resistance to water penetration under uniform
static air pressure differences. The instrument can be switched between high pressure and low
pressure.
How Water Penetration Tester works?
1. Clamp one end of the specimen under 152mm spring clamp at the top of the
inclined stand.
2. A standard blotter paper 152 x 230 mm is weighed to the nearest 0.1g and inserted
beneath the test specimen.
3. Pour the distilled water into the funnel of tester and allow spraying onto the test
specimen.
4. The water should be poured into the funnel without imparting any swirling motion
of the water in the funnel.
5. Upon completion of the spraying period, the test specimen is carefully lifted, the
blotter beneath removed, and then quickly reweighed to the nearest 0.1 g.
AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201
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Shrinkage Template & Scale: -
Shrinkage Template & Scale is used for finding accurate Shrinkage in fabric and Garments.
Shrinkage Template & Scale also measures the dimensional changes in fabrics after
laundering, dry cleaning etc.
How Shrinkage Template & Scale works?
1. The marking template should be placed on the specimen to be tested, making sure that
the fabric is in flat position before marking.
2. Hold the template firm, and carefully mark the fabric through the eight slots of the
template, to ensure that it does not move.
3. Now put the fabric in the washing machine or Dry Cleaning.
4. Dry the sample as per any of the method. It can either be Line Dry or Flat Dry or Tumble
Dry.
5. To find the dimensional change read the Shrinkage/Stretch on 3 points on the Wrap
side and 3 points on Weft Side.
6. Get the mean value of wrap-wise and weft wise readings to get the Accurate Shrinkage
or Stretch.
Serviceability-A garment is considered to be serviceable when it is fit for its particular end
use. After being used for a certain length of time the garment ceases to be serviceable when it
can no longer fill its intended purpose in the was that it did when it was new. The particular
factors that reduce the service life of a garment are heavily dependent on its end use. For
instance, over- all's worn to protect clothing at work would be required to withstand a good
deal of hard usage during their lifetime but their appearance would not be considered.
1 Changes in fashion which mean that the garment is no longer worn its physical state.
2 Shrinkage or other dimensional changes of such a magnitude that the garment will no longer
fit.
Wearer trials: -The main purpose of laboratory tests is to obtain prior knowledge of the
performance of textile products in service. The assumption is made that when such tests are
carried out, there is some relationship between the results of the laboratory tests and the
performance of the items in use. In order to design laboratory testing procedures that correlate
with end use performance the conditions of actual use must be carefully analysed so that they
can be simulated as closely as possible in a controlled setting.
AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201
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Digital Pilling Tester: - is used to check the pilling resistance of the fabric. Pilling is a fabric
surface fault characterized by little pills of entangled fibres clinging to the surface. Pills are
formed during wearing or washing by the entanglement of the loose fibres, which protrude
from fabric surface. To determine the tendency to form pills, test specimens taken from the
fabric sample are rubbed against each other under controlled conditions.
How Digital Pilling Tester works?
1. The very first step is to clean the boxes thoroughly.
2. Then place four mounted test specimens in each box and close the boxes.
3. Later set the pre-set counter at 18000 with the help of the Thumb Wheel setting
provided on the Digital Counter.
4. Press the start button. The machine would stop automatically after 18000 revolutions.
5. Now, finally take the specimens and compare them with the photographic rating
standards.
Crease Recovery Tester: - determines the property of textiles to recover from creases by
measurement of the recovery angle. The specimen is first creased under specified load for fixed
time and is then transferred to the measurement device, where one end of the specimen is held
in a spring-loaded clamp and other is allowed to fall free under its own weight. Now one need
to read the scale fixed to moving clamp to know the deflection of the clamped end from the
horizontal. This angle gives the measure of the Crease Recovery.
How Crease Recovery Tester works?
1. Fold the specimen and if the surfaces of the specimen have a tendency to stick
together, place a piece of paper or aluminium foil, between the ends of specimen.
2. Place the folded specimen between the two leaves of the loading device and
immediately apply the weight.
3. Start timing device, and after 5mins quickly but smoothly remove the weight
from the first specimen.
4. Using tweezers transfer the folded specimen to the instrument’s circular
specimen holder. Insert one end of the specimen between the clamps on the
5. While the specimen is in the holder, adjust the instrument to keep the free
hanging end of the alignment with the vertical mark.
6. Finally, read and record the recovery angle from the circular scale 5 minutes
after inserting the specimen into the clamp.
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Crock meter:
Crock Meter is used to determine by abrasion process the discoloration of the teared cloth or
teared leather. This test equipment is designed to monitor the rubbing colour speed of any
textile material. The amount of color transferred from one fabric to another is determined.
The product is mostly used for textiles, such as teared, printed or coloured fabrics. The test is
performed by rubbing the sample constantly against an undyed sample. The transferred color
is then tested for a predefined gray size and the score is accordingly allocated. This test is
done on two different stages of the fabric, once in the dry state and again repeated when wet.
Working procedure:
• First, we take the sample.
• Then the material is placed on the sandpaper.
• Pinned specimen holder is employed to fixed the material.
• After that crocking (rubbing) cloth is about 3×5 cm has settled with rubbing finger
by spring clip.
• Loading unit (9 N) is applied put the finger pinned the operating handle is operated
by using of hand.
• We give 10 cycle stocks the direction of each cycle stock is 1 sec.
• The sample is then collected of gray compound.
• Cloth is collected and scale-compounded.
FABRIC FLAMMABILITY TEST: - Flammability Flameproof fabrics are absolutely
necessary for protective clothing in many industrial processes where chances of inflammable
fabrics being ignited are high. In domestic sphere many serious and tragic accidents are the
results of clothing catching fire.
The visual timing test: A fabric strip is suspended vertically and ignited from the bottom edge, then
the rate of flame spread is determined. This method is applicable for slow burning fabrics but not
for highly flammable fabric.
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45º Flame Test: - How this test works: Samples are mounted in a frame and held in a special apparatus
at an angle of 45º. A standardized flame is applied to the surface near the lower end for specified amount
of time. The flame travels up the length of the fabric to a trigger string, which drops a weight to stop
the timer when burned through. The time required for the flame travel the length of the fabric and break
the trigger string is recorded, as well as the fabric
Vertical Flame Test: - material response to heat and flame is measured and described. A test specimen
is positioned vertically above a controlled flame and exposed for a specified period of time. Following
exposure, the flame source is removed. Measurements are made on the length of time that the specimen
continues to flame and the time afterglow continues after the flame source has been removed. Char
length, or visible damage to the test specimen after application of a specified tearing force, is
determined. Notations on observations of melting and dripping are also recorded.
Method B: Fabrics made from thermoplastic materials don’t burn in a convenient manner for a
satisfactory strip test to be made. They melt, shrink, curl away from the flame. In method B the test
specimen is hung in the sheet form and the igniting flame applied at right angles to the sheet and near
to the bottom edge. The amount of damage and time taken is observed and reported.
Method C: This test is concerned with the transmission of flame across pile fabrics. To determine the
durability of any flame-resistant treatments the following tests are repeated after washing, drying
cleaning or leaching. (The lower speed of propagation of flame over wool, silk, acetate fabrics is due to
the fact that they melt and drip during burning) Recent Progress in flammability test
Horizontal Flammability Tester – Horizontal Flammability Chamber is used to test textile and
material used in vehicles horizontal burning rate when exposure to a small flame. Horizontal
Flammability Test Method includes the sample is horizontally clamped on the U-shaped bracket, and
is ignited by a predetermined small flame in the combustion chamber for 15 seconds. The flame is
ignited at one end of the sample to test the time when the flame spreads to a prescribed distance and the
distance of the flame combustion
(Vertical flame tester) (45* tester) (horizontal tester)
What is tensile strength testing?
It is referred to as a strength test where the load is applied along the direction of the test sample.
What is tensile strength of Fabric?
The tensile strength of the fabric is defined as the maximum amount of tensile stress and
tension that fabric can take before breaking.
The strip test: - is a tensile test in which the full width of the test specimen is gripped in the tensile grip
jaws of a universal testing machine. During this test, tensile force is applied on the fabric specimen until
AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201
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it ruptures. Mechanical properties to analyse include the force at rupture and the elongation (expressed
as percentage) at maximum force and/or at rupture.
A Grab test:-is a tensile test in which the centre part of the specimen width is gripped in the tensile
grip jaws. Due to the way the sample is gripped, edge effects, which may cause inaccurate data for
fabrics, are eliminated. Similar to the strip test method, tensile force is applied to the fabric specimen
until rupture and maximum force is recorded. Fabric specimens most often tested using the grab method
are woven and non-woven textile fabrics.
The tongue tear method: - is often used to measure the tear force and the tear strength of a fabric
specimen. This method, outlined by ASTM D2261, requires a specific sample preparation where the
rectangular fabric specimen is cut to form two tongues on each end which are then placed on upper and
lower grips. Once tensile force is applied, the fabric specimen will tear along the mid-line between the
tongues. Fabrics to be tested using the tongue tear method include those made from acetate, acrylic,
cotton, flax, nylon, olefin, polyester, rayon, silk, and wool.
Trapezoidal tear: - is another tear strength test that uses a specimen prepared as an isosceles trapezoid
with a small cut on one side. When testing starts and force is applied, the trapezoid tear produces tension
along a reasonably defined course such that the tear propagates across the width of the specimen. This
test method applies to most fabrics such as woven fabrics, air bag fabrics, blankets, napped, knitted,
layered, and pile fabrics
Seam strength: - Failure at a seam makes a garment unusable even though the fabric may be in good
condition. There are a number of possible causes of seam failure:
(1) The sewing thread either wears out or fails before the fabric does.
(2) The yarns making up the fabric are broken or damaged by the needle during sewing.
(3) Seam slippage occurs. Seam slippage is an inherent property of the fabric and so forms part of the
specification for fabrics which are to be made into upholstery and apparel. The other problems listed
above are specific to making-up and they depend on the sewing machine used, the sewing thread, the
sewing speed, size of sewing needle and stitch length among other factors. Similarly seam strength,
although it can be measured in the same way as fabric tensile strength, depends on too many factors to
be a useful property of a fabric.
Dimensional stability: - The dimensional stability of a fabric is a measure of the extent to which it
keeps its original dimensions subsequent to its manufacture. It is possible for the dimensions of a fabric
to increase but any change is more likely to be a decrease or shrinkage. Shrinkage is a problem that
gives rise to a large number of customer complaints. Some fabric faults such as colour loss or pilling
can degrade the appearance of a garment but still leave it usable. Other faults such as poor abrasion
resistance may appear late in the life of a garment and to some extent their appearance may be
anticipated by judging the quality of the fabric. However, dimensional change can appear early on in
the life of a garment so making a complaint more likely Fabric shrinkage can cause problems in two
main areas, either during garment manufacture or during subsequent laundering by the ultimate
customer. At various stages during garment manufacture the fabric is pressed in a steam press such as
a Hoffman press where it is subjected to steam for a short period while being held between the upper
and lower platens of the press.
WIRA steaming cylinder: -The WIRA steaming cylinder is designed to assess the shrinkage that takes
place in a commercial garment press as steam pressing is part of the normal garment making up process.
The shrinkage that takes place when a fabric is exposed to steam is classified as relaxation shrinkage
not felting or consolidation shrinkage. In the test the fabric is kept in an unconstrained state and
AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201
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subjected to dry saturated steam at atmospheric pressure. These conditions are slightly different from
those that occur in a steam press where the fabric is trapped between the upper and lower platens while
it is subjected to steam. Four warp and four weft samples are tested, each measuring 300mm X 50mm.
They are first preconditioned and then conditioned for 24 h in the standard testing atmosphere in order
that the samples always approach condition from the dry side.
Air permeability: -The air permeability of a fabric is a measure of how well it allows the passage of
air through it. The ease or otherwise of passage of air is of importance for a number of fabric end uses
such as industrial filters, tents, sailcloth's, parachutes, raincoat materials, shirting's, down proof fabrics
and airbags. Air permeability is defined as the volume of air in millilitres which is passed in one second
through 10Os mm2 of the fabric at a pressure difference of 10mm head of water. In the British Standard
test the airflow through a given area of fabric is measured at a constant pressure drop across the fabric
of 10mm head of water. The specimen is clamped over the air inlet of the apparatus with the use of
rubber gaskets and air is sucked through it by means of a pump
Thermal comfort: - The human body tries to maintain a constant core temperature of about 370 C.
The actual value varies slightly from person to person but the temperature of any one person is
maintained within narrow limits. In most climates body temperature is above that of the external
environment so that there has to be an internal source of heat in order to maintain the temperature
difference. The required heat comes from the body's metabolism, that is the necessary burning of
calories to provide power to the muscles and other internal functions. However, the body must be kept
in thermal balance
Waterproofing: -Waterproofing is very important for the outer layer of a clothing system designed to
be worn outdoors. The waterproofing of fabrics can readily be achieved by the use of synthetic polymer
coatings; however, the use of simple coatings brings with it the penalty of excess build-up of moisture
vapour above certain levels of activity. The design of clothing for comfort and protection in adverse
weather conditions is therefore a matter of compromise between the competing requirements. No one
fabric or clothing item can fulfil all the requirements,
thermal conductivity: - The transmission of heat through a fabric occurs both by conduction through
the fibre and the entrapped air and by radiation. Practical methods of test for thermal conductivity
measure the total heat transmitted by both mechanisms. The insulation value of a fabric is measured by
its thermal resistance which is the reciprocal of thermal conductivity (transmittance) and it is defined
as the ratio of the temperature difference between the two faces of the fabric to the rate of flow of heat
per unit area normal to the faces. As can be seen from this definition it is necessary to know the rate of
heat flow through a fabric in order to be able to measure its thermal resistance.
Colour change grey: -scales These scales consist of five pairs of grey coloured material numbered
from 1 to 5. Number 5 has two identical greys, number 1 grey scale shows the greatest contrast, and
numbers 2, 3 and 4 have intermediate contrasts. After appropriate treatment the specimen is compared
with the original untreated material and any loss in colour is graded with reference to the grey scale.
When there is no change in the colour of a test specimen it would be classified as '5'; if there is a change
it is then classified
Wicking test: -In this test a strip of fabric is suspended vertically with its lower edge in a reservoir of
distilled water as shown in the rate of rise of the leading edge of the water is then monitored. To detect
the position of the water line a dye can be added to the water or, in the case of dark coloured fabrics,
the conductivity of the water may be used to complete an electrical circuit. The measured height of rise
in a given time is taken as a direct indication of the wickability of the test fabric.
Adhesion Coating Testing: - Adhesion coating testing is applicable to fabrics with an adhesive coating
compound applied, forming a chemical bond between the adhesive and the fabric material. The bond
AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201
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strength that is created between the coating compound and the fabric material can be measured running
adhesion coating tests. If the adhesion is not strong enough, seam strength will decrease. If adhesion is
too strong, problems may arise as tear strength will be affected. Standards outlining the minimum
required
Puncture/Burst Testing: -Puncture testing of fabric specimens determines the strength of a material
by measuring the force required to penetrate the specimen. Contact with sharp edged objects in a real-
world scenario is simulated by the use of puncture fixtures. Puncture fixtures are often used in the tensile
direction but may also be used in the compressive direction. In order to calculate the specimen puncture
resistance, the specimen is first stretched and placed on the ring clamp mechanism of the puncture
fixture
Constant Rate of Elongation (CRE): -Constant rate of elongation tests are tests used to determine
the strength of textile materials. In constant rate of elongation tests, the specimen is extended at a
constant rate and the force is a dependent quantity.
It is possible in constant rate of elongation tests for load to decrease while elongation increases.
Constant Rate of Loading (CRL): -Constant rate of loading tests are tests used to determine the
strength of textile materials. In constant rate of loading (CRL) tests, the specimen is loaded at a
constant rate and the elongation is a dependent quantity. It is not possible in constant rate of loading
tests for load to decrease. Load must increase all the time.
CRT: Pulling one clamp at a uniform rate and the load is applied through the other clamp.
Which moves appreciably to actuate a load measuring mechanism so that the rate of increase
of either load or elongation is usually not constant.
(CRL) (CRE) (CRT)
Fabric friction: - One of these methods is shown diagrammatically in In this method a block
of mass m is pulled over a flat rigid surface which is covered with the fabric being tested. The
line connected to the block is led around a frictionless pulley and connected to an appropriate
load cell in a tensile testing machine. This can measure the force F required both to start the
block moving and also to keep it moving, thus providing the static and dynamic coefficients of
friction from the relation:
AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201
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Appearance Evaluation after Home laundering and dry-cleaning: Test method to evaluate
the overall general appearance of a garment and other textile products after repeated home
laundering and dry-cleaning.
Colorfastness to Light: Test to evaluate the colorfastness property of textiles when subject to
light exposure.
Colourfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach: Test to evaluate the colourfastness performance of
a textile fabric when subjected to the action of Non-Chlorine Bleach
Dimensional stability to dry-clean: Test to determine the dimensional stability (shrinkage or
elongation) in woven and knit fabrics when subject to commercial dry-cleaning.
Dimensional stability to Home Laundering: Test to determine the dimensional stability
(shrinkage or elongation) in woven and knit fabrics when subjected to home laundering
Fabric weight: Test to determine the weight of textile fabrics in garments generally at 70 Fare
height/21 degrees Celsius and 65% relative humidity.
Flammability: The purpose of this test is to test and rate the flammability of textiles and
discouraging the use of any dangerously flammable clothing.
Formaldehyde: Test to determine the residual presence of Formaldehyde in textile products
finished with chemicals containing formaldehyde.
Mechanical Hazard/Sharp edges: Test to evaluate clothing or toys intended for use by
infants/toddlers for any measurable risk of injury by laceration or incision.
Mechanical Hard/Sharp Points: Test to evaluate clothing or toys intended for use by
infants/toddlers for any measurable risk of injury by puncture or laceration.
Mechanical Hazard/Small parts: Test to evaluate clothing or toys intended for use by
infants/toddlers for any unreasonable risk of small parts choking hazard.
PH Value: Test to indicate the efficiency of washing operation after various wet treatment
either bleaching or scouring.
AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201
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Skewness in Fabric: Test to evaluate the percentage of torque in a garment, which may occur
during laundering procedures commonly used by consumers at home
Snap/De-snap: test to determine the force required to disengage snap fastness by a pull
perpendicular and parallel with the plain of the snap fastener.
Thread Count: Test to determine the number of Warp and Weft yarns or Wales/courses per
unit distance in woven or knitted fabrics respectively.
Yarn size: Test to determine the size of fineness (linear density of a yarn expressed either as
mass per unit length or length per unit mass depending upon yarn numbering system of all
types of cotton, woollen, worsted or manmade fabrics in measurable length.)
Fabric defects by name:
1. horizontal line, selvedge, broken warp and weft, loose warp and weft, snarl, double
end, tight end, float warp, wrong colour end, missing pick, double pick weft bar
,ball, hole oil spot, tail out, temple mark, reed mark, slub, thick or thin end, stain
garment, drop stitch, neps, abrasion mark, needle line, missing end,
2. Birdseye: Caused by unintentional tucking from malfunctioning needle. Usually two
small distorted stitches, side by side
3. Bowing: Usually caused by finishing. In knits the course lines lie in an arc across width
of goods. Critical on stripes or patterns and not as critical on solid colour fabrics.
4. Broken Colour Pattern: Usually caused by colour yarn out of place on frame. www.
Assignment. Point. com
5. Crease Streak: Occurs in tubular knits. Results from creased fabric passing through
squeeze rollers in the dyeing process.
6. Drop Stitches Results from malfunctioning needle or jack. Will appear as holes, or
missing stitches.
7. End Out: Occurs in Warp knit. Results from knitting machine continuing to run with
missing end
8. Hole: caused by broken needle.
9. Missing Yarn: Occurs in warp knit. Results from wrong fibre yarn (or wrong size yarn)
placed on warp. Fabric could appear as thick end or different colour if fibres have
different affinity for dye.
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GARMENT DYEING PROCESS
Garment dyeing may be defined as the application of colour to fully fashioned apparel
articles, may be in the form of garments cut and sewn either prepared or unprepared knitted
fabrics and then dyed, garments and / or components knitted from either prepared or
unprepared yarn and then dyed, garments manufactured from either prepared or unprepared
woven fabric and then dyed and mixed fabric garments i.e., woven and knitted fabrics
manufactured from prepared fabrics and then dyed
1. Advantages of Garment Dyeing
Handling of smaller lots economically
2. Enables diverse particular effects to achieved
3. Distressed hold off tin hold upward effectively imparted
4. Unsold calorie-free shades tin hold upward converted into medium too deep shades
Why Garment dyeing?
Traditionally, garments are constructed from fabrics that are pre-dyed (piece dyed) before the
actual cutting and sewing. The advantage of this process is the cost effectiveness of mass-
producing identical garments of particular colours.
Paddle dyeing machines
AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201
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A process of dyeing textiles in a machine that gently move the goods using paddles similar to
a paddle wheel on a boat. This is a slow process, but there is extremely little abrasion on the
goods. Horizontal Paddle Machines (overhead paddle machine) consist of a curved beck like
lower suction to contain the materials and the dye liquor. The goods are moved by a rotating
paddle, which extends across the width of the machine. Half immersed paddles cause the
material to move upwards and downwards throughout the liquor. The temperature can be
raised to 98o C in such system. In lateral / oval paddle machines consist of oval tank to
enhance the fluid flow and the processing the goods. In the middle of this tank is a closed
oval island. The paddle moves in a lateral direction and is not half submerged in the liquor
and the temperature can be increased up to 98o C.
HT Paddle Machines: -
work according to the principle of horizontal paddle machine, however, the temperature can
be raised up to 140o C. PES articles are preferably dyed on HT paddles. In paddle machines,
the dyeing can be carried out with 30:1 to 40:1, lower ratios reduce optimum movement of
the goods, lead to unlevel dyeing, crease formation. For gentleness, the blades of the paddle
are either curved or have rounded edges and the rotating speed of the paddle can be regulated
from 1.5 to 40 rpm. Circulation of the liquor should be strong enough to prevent goods from
sinking to the bottom. Paddle machines are suitable for dyeing articles of all substrates in all
forms of make ups. The goods are normally dyed using PP/PET bags.
Rotary Drum Dyeing Machines and Tumbler dyeing Machines
These machines work on the principle of “movement of textile material and a stationary
liquor". The rotary drum dyeing machine consists of rotating perforated cylindrical drum,
which rotates slowly inside a vessel of slightly bigger in size. The internal drum is divided
into compartments to ensure rotation of goods with the drum rotation, and the outer vessel
holds the required quantity of dye liquor. High temperature drum machines are capable of
processing the garments up to 140o Drum dyeing-centrifuging machines are also called
“multipurpose drum machines” or “multi-rapid dyeing centrifuging machines” since these
machines can perform scouring, dyeing, centrifuging and conditioning successively with
automated controls.
Features of modern rotary-dyeing equipment include the following:
1. lower liquor ratio
2. gentle movement of goods and liquor (minimizes surface abrasion)
AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201
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3. rapid heating and cooling
4. centrifugal extraction
Tumbler Dyeing Machines: -
These machines are being used for small garments either in loose form or in open mesh bags.
Design wises the tumbler dyeing machines are similar to the commercial laundering
machines.
The principle of operation is to load the material into perforated inner SS tanks, which rotates
round a horizontal shaft fixed at the back of the drum. The drum is divided into
compartments for moving the goods with rotation of drum. A variety of tumbling machines
have higher rotation speeds and can spin dry at the end of the cycle. These are similar to dry-
cleaning machines.
Rotating drum machines are more efficient and cleaner to operate than paddle machines. The
more vigorous mechanical action often promotes more shrinkage and bulking, which may be
desirable for some articles. In order to handle higher quantities and large production of
similar pieces the latest machines are provided with several automatic features and
sophistications.
Toroid Dyeing machines
In these machines the garments circulate in the liquor in a toroidal path with the aid of an
impeller situated below the perforated false bottom of the vessel. Movement of the goods
depends completely on the pumped action of the liquor. High-temperature versions of this
machine operating at 120 to 130°C were developed in the 1970s for dyeing fully-fashioned
polyester or triacetate garments. The liquor ratio of such machines is about 30:1.
Lateral / oval paddle Peddle:-These machines consist of oval tank to enhance the fluid flow
and the processing the goods. In the middle of this tank is a closed oval island. Island The
AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201
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paddle moves in a lateral direction and is not half Circulation submerged in the liquor. Dye
Bath. The temperature can be increased up to 98*
The Gyrobox dyeing machine
The machine has support in the form of a large wheel, which is divided into 12 independent non radial
compartments. The goods are placed in these compartments. The wheel runs at a moderate speed of 2-
6 rpm.The main advantage of this machine are,
1.Reduced M:L
2.Different types of garments can be dyed simultaneously .
3.Flexible loading
4.Fully automatic operation.
The MCS Readymade garment dyeing machine- The MCS Readymade garment dyeing machine
the roto dye machines are suitable for dyeing pure cotton, wool, polyester, cotton blends in the form
of T shirts, sweaters, bath rugs and accessories, socks and stockings.
Modified Pegg Toroid Whitely Garment Dyeing Machine
This is an improved version of Toroid machines; the additional features are the machine is suitable for
both atmospheric too clit per unit of measurement area dyeing. Full automation up to hydro
extraction. The pattern features, speed too performance is simplified to brand the machine to a greater
extent than versatile too gratuitous from operating problems.
Textile product labelling
A garment label is a communicator between the buyer and the product. A garment label
contains various types of information of that garment, such as buyer name, country of origin,
types of fabric, types of yarn, fabric composition, garments size, special instruction about
care, etc.
Washing and Care Instructions
AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201
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Size of cloth labels
Size of cloth
MEN'S BODY SIZING CHART*
XS S M L XL XXL
Chest 33" - 36" 36" - 39" 39" - 41" 41" - 43" 43" - 46" 46" - 49"
Waist 27" - 30" 30" - 33" 33" - 35" 36" - 38" 38" - 42" 42" - 45"
Hip 33" - 36" 36" - 39" 39" - 41" 41" - 43" 43" - 46" 46" - 49"
XL Size (Extra Large), XXL Size (Double Extra Large), XXL (Double Extra Large) XXXL (Triple Extra-large)
AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201
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Brand labels of cloths
India’s clothing market, also known as the ready-made garment market, has enjoyed a
sustainable growth of the recent decades, many top garment manufacturers in India have also
become some of the world’s leading clothing suppliers and they have achieved great success
in key areas of clothing manufacturing, exports, sales, and employment for India’s textiles
sector, as well as contributing a great deal to the country’s GDP growth in recent years.
According to data from McKinsey’s Fashion Scope, India’s clothing and garment market is
forecast to be worth over $59.3 billion in 2022, maintain its leading position as the sixth largest
clothing manufacturing country in the world.
AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201
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CONCLUSION
Testing and quality control is the essential thing in textile without which we cannot give the
performance assurance of textile product. Quality control Quality promotion Comparative
product evaluation Performing failure analysis new product development Research Checking
the quality and suitability of raw material and selection of material. Monitoring of production
i.e., process control. Assessment of final product, whether the quality is acceptable or not, (how
will be the yarn performance in weaving? etc), Investigation of faulty materials (analysis of
customer complaint, identification of fault in machine etc. Product development and
research.Though it helps to assure performance, it is necessary to do the testing and control of
quality very carefully and required skilled workers. So that quality of a manufactured textile
product can meet the standard norms and satisfy the customer’s need Quality is a relative term.
It means customer needs is to be satisfied. Quality is of prime importance in any aspect of
business. is very important work or process. Testing In response to ever-changing
governmental regulations and the ever-increasing consumer demand for high quality, soft lines
testing and textile testing help to minimize risk and protect the interest of both manufacturers
and consumers. It is important that testing is not undertaken without adding some benefit to the
final product. So various Steps of Textile & Garments manufacturing where in-process Testing,
inspection and quality control are done to avoid reproduction, reprocessing and minimize
wastage
garments manufacturers inspection the fabric stock upon arrival, Fabric inspection ensures to
minimize the rejection of cut panels or rejected garments due to fabric faults.
Cutting inspected and approved fabric ensures not only finished garment quality but also
reduces rejects, improves efficiency and timely deliveries. And appearance with
instruction/description and/or sample received. There are different types
of inspection following by inspectors as requirement of consumers. After identification of
fabric defects, a system needs to be followed to grade the defects to ascertain its acceptance or
rejection. AQL,10-point inspection ,4-Point fabric inspection system, Dallas System Traffic
Light System, Graniteville "78" system and using 7QC Tool using identify faults and any
problem of system and get a solution is mostly used in textile industry around the globe now
So the fabric inspection system is very important in manufacturing process for get desirable
quality of garments.
Garment dyeing Comparatively lower cost of production for any item of any color and shade.
Comparatively less time is required to produce and supply garments. No possibility of shade
variation within the garments. Small lots of different items could be produced at lower cost
within less time. Comparatively lower cost of production for any item of any colour and shade.
Comparatively less time is required to produce and supply garments. No possibility of shade
variation within the garments. fabric dyeing is continuing process and semi continue process
roll on fabric dyeing in same colour and same shade major different of garments dye and fabric
dye and fabric dyeing in more time-consuming process HTHP,WINCH,Jigger,beam dyeing
machine using fabric dyeing and Paddle dyeing machines HT Paddle Machines,Lateral / oval paddle
Peddle, The Gyrobox small garment dyeing m/c lots of different items could be produced at
lower cost within less time. Old garments could be re-dyed, hence becomes like new garments
Desizing, scouring, bleaching, Dyeing and finishing could be done in the same machine.
AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201
33
REFRENCES
Textileleaner:https://www.google.com/search?q=textile+learner&rlz=1C1GCEJ_enIN931IN
932&oq=te&aqs=chrome.2.69i57j69i59l3j0i131i433j0i433j0i131i433l2j0i433j0i131i433.201
2j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
NPTEL: - https://nptel.ac.in/courses/116/102/116102029/
indiatextile:-https://indiantextilejournal.com/articles/FAdetails.asp?id=4664
Slide share: - https://www.slideshare.net/ChamalJayasinghe/fabric-inspections
Book of physical testing of textile by B P saville
book of Fabric testing by jinlian HU
book of textile testing 150 Er p.rangari (IIHT CHAMPA)
principle of textile testing IIHT
Indian textile: - https://indiantextilejournal.com/articles/FAdetails.asp?id=4664
researchgatehttps://www.researchgate.net/publication/335038934_Testing_of_Fibres_Yarns
_and_Fabrics_and_Their_Recent_Developments
online clothing: https://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2017/08/the-top-30-textile-apparel-
clothing.html
textile apex: https://textileapex.blogspot.com/2015/04/advantages-of-garments-dyeing.html
textile study: - https://textilestudycenter.com/inspection-steps-in-garments-inspection/
https://www.uptons.com.au/garment-care/care-labels/
textile adviser: - https://www.textileadvisor.com/search?q=garment+dyeing+machine+
https://priveeparis.in/pages/size-chart-india
"Textile". Merriam-Webster. Archived from the original on 2011-11-09. Retrieved 2012-05-25.
Sarkar, Prasanta. Garment Manufacturing: Processes,Practices and Technology
"Camera Based Visual Fabric Inspection". Apparel Resources. Retrieved 2020-12-25.
https://garmentspedia.blogspot.com/2016/05/list-of-garment-dyeing-machine.html
blog: https://sosopoetry.blogspot.com/2018/12/garment-dyeing-how-to-garment-dyeing.html?m=1
dyeing world: - http://dyeingworld1.blogspot.com/2010/01/garment-dyeing-machines.html

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Garment inspection and testing process or dyeing process

  • 1. AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201 1 A REPORT on SUMMER TRAINING on Study on Garment inspection system and Testing process of garments and dyeing process Duration: - Submitted to: FACULTY OF ENGINEERING & TECHNOLOGY RAJASTHAN TECHNICAL UNIVERSITY, KOTA for The Partial Fulfilment of the Requirements for Degree of Bachelor of Technology in (TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY) BY: AKSHAY SEN Under the guidance and supervision of Mr. Prakash khude MLV TEXTILE & ENGINEERING COLLEGE BHILWARA(Raj.) (An Autonomous Engineering College of the Rajasthan Govt.) 2020-2021
  • 2. AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201 2 Acknowledgement It gives me a great sense of pleasure to present the report of B. TECH project undertaken during B. TECH 4rd year. Project Study on garment inspection system testing of garments and dyeing process I own special debt of gratitude to Mr. PRAKASH KUDE department of textile technology, MLVTECH, BHILWARA for this constant support and guidance throughout the course of my work. His sincerity thoroughness and perseverance have been constant sources of inspiration for us. It is only his cognizant effort that my endeavors have been light of the day. I also take the opportunity to acknowledge the contribution of DHIRENDRA SHARMA (principal sir), MLVTECH, and BHILWARA for his full support and assistance during the project work. BY: - AKSHAY SEN
  • 3. AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201 3 Abstract The inspection that is done for controlling the quality of garments is mainly meant to examine in bare eyes. Checking of the fabrics of garments, sewing, button, thread, zipper, measurements of garments etc. with the standard process is called the inspection. In each section of a garments industry, there are arrangements for inspection. The main purpose of inspection is to identify the faults at the earliest possible steps for production of garments and earlier the defects will be detected lesser will be the wastage of time and money. Fabric testing and garment inspection plays a crucial role in gauging product quality, assuring regulatory compliance and assessing the performance of textile materials. It provides information about the physical or structural properties and the performance properties of the fabrics. Inspection Identify faults of fabric for manufacturing process Today more and more countries and markets have a stake in the treatment and testing of fabric. As consumers become more aware and more demanding of products, the number of tests required for textile fabrics has grown. As a result, the testing of fabrics is increasingly varied, in constant flux and full of the unprecedented challenges of globalization. This introductory chapter describes the importance, scope, current status and future trends in fabric testing. Key words: scope of fabric testing, importance of fabric testing, future of fabric testing, standards for tests Garment dyeing are the process of dyeing fully fashioned garments (such as pants, t-shirts, jeans, sweaters, dresses, bathrobes, casual jackets, shirts, hosieries) subsequent to manufacturing, as opposed to the conventional method of manufacturing garments from pre- dyed fabrics. Interlining is a very important in apparel manufacturing. Interlining is one kind of accessories that is used between the two layers of fabric in a garment. To keep the different component or part of apparel in a desired shape, a kind of fabric is used between the two plies of fabric by sewing or fusing is called interlining. Due to cost savings and fashion trends, garment dyeing has been gaining importance and popularity in the past years and will continue to do so in the future. Key Words: Garment dyeing, woven fabric, interlining, sewing, fusing, coating.
  • 4. AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201 4 INDEX S.NO. CONTENT PAGE NUMBER 1 Acknowledgement 2 2 Abstract 3 3 Introduction 5 4 Garment inspection 5 5 AQL 6 6 4-point inspection system 8 7 10-point system 9 8 Dallas System and Traffic Light System 10 9 Graniteville "78" system 11 10 7 QC Tools in Apparel Industry 12 11 Testing of garments 13 12 13 fabric defects garments dyeing process 25 26 14 Textile product labelling 29 15 Brand labels of cloths 31 16 CONCLUSION 32 17 REFRENCES 33
  • 5. AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201 5 Introduction The inspection that is done for controlling the quality of garments is mainly meant to examine in bare eyes. Checking of the fabrics of garments, sewing, button, thread, zipper, measurements of garments etc. with the standard process is called the inspection. In each section of a garments industry, there are arrangements for inspection. The main purpose of inspection is to identify the faults at the earliest possible steps for production of garments and earlier the defects will be detected lesser will be the wastage of time and money. The aim of garment inspection is to visually inspect articles at random from a delivery in order to verify their general conformity and appearance with instruction/description and/or sample received. There are different types of inspection following by inspectors as requirement of consumers. There are different types of inspection following by inspectors as requirement of consumers What is quality control? The method of checking, analysing, verification and controlling the desired or expected quality parameters of the garments is said to be quality control. Garment inspection:- Inspection can be defined, in the apparel industry, as the visual examination or review of raw materials (such as fabric, Buttons, Zippers, Sewing threads, Trims, etc), partially finished components of the garments and completely finished garments in relation to some standards, specifications or requirements, as well as measuring the garments if they meet the required measurements.
  • 6. AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201 6 Pre-Production check: -This is done before production starts. Where then is a final verification of the material used; style, cut and workmanship of the garment or pre-production sample as per the customer Requirements. Initial production check: -This is done at the start of production where a first batch of garments is inspected; to distinguish possible discrepancies/variation and to allow from the necessary corrections to be made bulk production. The inspection is a preliminary stage covering mainly style and general appearance, workmanship, measurements, quality of fabrics, components, weight, colour and/or printing. During production check: -This is done during production to ensure initial discrepancies/variations have been rectified. This inspection is in fact the follow -up of the initial production check and is generally carried out a few days after the initial inspection, especially if discrepancies have been detected at that time. Final Random Inspection: - This is carried out when the production of the total quantity of an order or partial delivery is completed. A sample lot will be selected from the order and a percentage of the garments will be inspected; this percentage usually being stipulated by the buyer. The AQL sampling inspection may be applied or another inspection system designed by the buyer. AQL Inspection Methods: - Single sampling plan – Normal inspection Assurance as AQL 2.5% and a lot of 1,200 garments and the sample size is 80 garments. If the number of defective garments found is 5 the total lot is “Acceptable” suppose if the garments found is 6, the total lot is “Reject/Re-Check”. Double sampling plan – normal inspection Assurance an AQL 4.0% and lot size is 1,200 garments and the sample size is 80 garments. If the number of defective garments found is 7, the total lot is “Acceptable” suppose if the defective garments found are 8, the total lot is “Reject/Re-check”. Today most of the customer demand for high-quality products at low prices. So, we should maintain the quality from the beginning stage of the production then only the final product with reach the consumer with right quality and we can get the order continuously from our customers. The garment manufacturers inspect their products continuously by designated responsible inspectors then only the right quality product will reach the consumers.
  • 7. AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201 7 Acceptable Quality Level in the Apparel Industry Acceptable quality level can be classified into 3 different criteria, namely critical, major and minor defects and are used by importers to set the maximum number of defective units, beyond which a batch will be rejected. For example, importers will sate ‘I want no more than 2.5% defective items in total of the entire over quantity, on average over several production runs with the supplier.’ The quality level tool is usually used during the final outgoing inspections when the products are ready to be shipped out and are done on a sampling basis. It is crucial to understand that the acceptable quality level should not be used as a measure for preventing quality issues of defects. Relying on final inspections to identify any defective products or quality issues will result in major delays in production and will be a waste of time and money. It is almost impossible to eliminate defective products completely. They occur in virtually every batch and can occur even after manufacturers have checked individual products since visual inspections aren't 100% full proof. Therefore, it’s important to ensure that your raw materials are up to the standard and quality of the type of quality products you expect to produce. If your raw materials are substandard, to begin with, you’ll risk experiencing significant quality issues during the final stages of production. Having control over the quality of your raw materials will reduce quality risks by up to 70%. For example, we have a shipment of 120 pieces. If we want to do the 2.5 AQL inspection. First of all, we need to specify the lot size for that quantity. From the table we find that the lot size is 91 – 150 named code – F. So, the sample size will be 20 pieces and have to pick 20 pieces to check. Now, look at the 2.5 AQL column to see the acceptance and rejection criteria. After checking if we find 1-piece defective items this lot will accept for shipment and if we find 2 or more defective items this lot will reject for shipment. 1. Critical defects: Garment must be 100% accurate. (There is no range, and critical defects are entirely unacceptable.) 2. Major defects: Normally 2.5% (products would be considered unacceptable by end users) 3. Minor defects: Normally 4% (product slightly doesn’t meet specifications, but end user won’t mind it.) 4. Slight defects: Normally 6.5% (defect is only recognizable internally)
  • 8. AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201 8 4 Point System Four Point System: - Most of the apparel industry prefer Four Point rating system for determining fabric quality, and it is certified by the American Society for Quality Control (ASQC) as well as the American Apparel Manufacturers (AAMA). The 4-Point System assigns 1, 2, 3 and 4 penalty points according to the size, quality, and significance of the defect. No more than 4 penalty points is assigned for any single flaw. A defect can be measured either length or width direction; the system remains the same. Only major errors are considered. No penalty points are assigned to minor defects. Defect Classification Whenever errors are recognized during fabric inspection under 4 points system and defect must be assigned a number of points depending on the severity or length. Inches (˝) (mm) Points From 0 > 3″ length/width Up to 75mm 1 point From 3.1″ > 6″ length/width 75mm > 150mm 2 points From 6.1″ > 9″ length/width 150mm > 230mm 3 points More than 9″ length/width More than 230mm 4 points The formula to compute penalty points per 100 square yards is given by= (Total points scored in the roll * 3600) / Fabric width in inches * Total yards inspected Example: A fabric roll 150 yards long and 56“ wide contains following defects. 6 defects up to 3“length 4 defects from 3“to 6“length 2 defects from 6“to 9“length 1 defect over 9“length 1 hole over 1“ 6 x 1 4 X 2 2 X 3 1 X 4 1 X 4 6 points 8 points 6 points 4 points 4 points Total defect points 28 Points Therefore, Points/square yards = (28 X 3600)/(56 X 150) = 12 points the total defect points in each 100 square yards being below 40, this roll of fabric may be accepted. If defects point above 40 in 100 square yds, then fabric will be rejected. It may be mentioned here that the limit or level of acceptability of fabric is ascertained by the buyer & seller of the fabric. How much the difference in length & in width in the fabric's rolls will be accepted also depends on the written contract between buyer & seller of the fabric. Holes and openings (the largest dimension) 1“or less 2 Over 1“ 4
  • 9. AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201 9 10 Points System For production of high-quality garments, need high quality piece goods. It is an universal truth. When a sewing factory receives fabric from the mill, it is difficult to conduct a full 100% inspection of the fabric. So then minimum 10% inspection of all piece goods prior to spreading the fabric. There are several methods of fabric inspection in garments industry. Ten Points system is one of them. The 10-point method is a point per fault system, which gives a measurable guide to quality grading per roll. In 1955s “Ten Points” piece goods evaluation was adapted by the Textile Distributors and National Federation of Textiles. The system assigns penalty points to each defect as per following guideline. the length of the fabric. If the points exceed the length of fabric in a roll, then it is considered ‘seconds’ and may be rejected. Suppose if the fabric roll having a length of 50 yards is inspected in a ten-point system and the total penalty points are less than 50. Then the fabric roll was considered good Under the Ten-Point System, a piece is graded a "first" if the total penalty points do not exceed the total yardage of the piece. A piece is graded a "second" if the total penalty points exceed the total yardage of the piece. For example: A fabric roll of size 120 yards x 46 inch is inspected and the following defects are found: Since, the defect points (97 points) < fabric yardage (120 yards), this fabric roll is of ‘first’ grade.
  • 10. AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201 10 Dallas System This system was developed in 1970s specifically for knits. It was approved by Dallas Manufacturers Association. According to this system, if any defect was found on a finished garment, the garment would then be termed as a "second". For fabrics, this system defines a second as "more than one defect per ten linear yards, calculated to the nearest ten yards". For example, one piece 60 yards long would be allowed to have six defects. Traffic Light System like other quality inspection tools, the traffic light inspection system is widely used in garment quality inspection. This system is used to stop producing defect at the source. This is a random inspection system. Traffic light system is more effective in controlling shop floor quality than other quality tools because of its visual communication the formats used for displaying as well as recording audit report. The format is very simple to use and to understand. The format is printed on a slightly thick A4 sheet and hanged on the sewing machine. In this system quality auditor visit operator’s workplace 4 times in a day (considering 8 hours shift day) and inspects stitched garments and fill circles with colour according to the inspection result. In the initial stage when this format had been introduced by JC Penny for their supplier, they instructed to inspect 7 pieces from the stitch garments and if auditor found any defective piece respective circle to be filled by RED color. If red color is marked on the inspection sheet, all stitched pieces must be checked by an auditor. And operator needs to be explained about the quality expected from him/her and how to get that expected quality. In some case, operators need more practice to get right quality pieces. The sample size is reduced as a quality auditor does not get 7 pieces at a time of inspection at most of the workstations. This happens due to low work in process (WIP) in between two workstations. Standard Sample Size: 5 pieces. Garment Inspection to be done after every two hours. (Garments inspection m/c)
  • 11. AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201 11 Graniteville "78" system This system was introduced in 1975 for the field of fabric grading. The system divides defects into major and minor types. The major defect is one, which is very obvious and leads the goods to second quality. The minor defect is one, which may or may not have caused garment to second, depending on its location in the end use item. The following points are noteworthy in this system: 1) The principle was established in garment cutting piece, in which, the short length defects (less than 9") will normally be removed. 2) The system tries to balance the importance of longer defects (over 9") and put less weight on 1-10" defects such as slubs. 3) The system also suggests the viewing distance of 9 foot instead of normal 3-foot viewing distance. 4) The system tends to eliminate very small defects from the total penalty score. 5) This is mostly recommended for use, where larger garments are to be cut with fabrics of wider widths. General Inspection Procedures fabric 1. Fabric inspection is done in suitable and safe environment with enough ventilation and proper lighting. 2. Fabric passing through the inspection frame must be between 45 - 60-degree angles to inspector and must be done on appropriate Cool White light above viewing area. Back light can be used as and when needed. 3. Fabric speed on inspection machine must not be more than 15 yards per minute. 4. All fabric inspection must be done when 80% of good or lot is received. 5. Standard approved bulk dye lot standards for all approved lots must be available prior to inspection. 6. Approved standard of bulk dye lot must be available before starting inspection for assessing colour, hand, weight, construction, finish and visual appearance. 7. Shade continuity within a roll by checking shade variation between centre and selvage and the beginning, middle and end of each roll must be evaluated and documented. 8. Textiles like knits must be evaluated for weight against standard approved weight. 9. Fabric width must be checked from selvage to selvage against standard. 10. All defects must be flagged during inspection.
  • 12. AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201 12 7 QC Tools in Apparel Industry 1. Histogram 2. Check Sheet (Tally Sheet) 3. Cause-and-Effect Diagram 4. Pareto Chart 5. Scatter Diagram 6. Control Chart 7. Stratification Benefits of 7 QC Tools ▪ Improve management decision-making skills ▪ Collect, present, Identify and analyses data ▪ Implement Six Sigma ▪ Control cost of poor quality ▪ Reduce variations and improve quality Histogram: -The histogram is also a bar chart. It is a graphical chart based on numeric value for showing the frequency distribution of the database. People become confused among Histograms and Bar Charts. A histogram is used for continuous data Check Sheet (Tally Sheet):-The Check Sheet/Tally sheet is a simple document that is used for collecting data in real-time and at the location where the data is generated. A document is typically a blank form that is designed for the quick, easy, and efficient recording of the desired information Cause-and-effect diagram: - A cause-and-effect diagram looks like a fish that’s why it’s called Fishbone Diagram, also called Ishikawa diagram, herringbone diagrams or Ishikawa diagrams, a visualization tool for categorizing the potential causes of a problem in order to identify its root causes Pareto Chart (80/20 Rule): - The Pareto principle (also known as the 80–20 rule, the law of the vital few, and the principle of factor sparsity) states that, for many events, roughly 80% of the effects come from 20% of the causes. More generally, the Pareto Principle is the observation (not law) that most things in life are not distributed evenly. Scatter Diagram: -The scatter diagram graphs pairs of numerical data, with one variable on each axis, to look for a relationship between them. If the variables are correlated, the points will fall along a line or curve. The better the correlation, Control charts:- also known as Shewhart charts or process-behaviour charts, are a statistical process control tool used to determine if a manufacturing or business process is in a state of control. A control chart shows how data frequency changes flow chart or run chart: -Stratification is a method of dividing data into, division, class, or level that helps in deriving meaningful information to understand an existing problem.
  • 13. AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201 13 Testing of garments Definition: -If you work at Garment production, you will know that garments are always checked and inspected at various stages. The garment checking method is the steps and methods for testing garments quality before it is distributed. Before we can make a garment, we make use of fibres, yarns and fabric and finally the textile plays an important role in Garment quality. That is why we need to understand the concept of Textile testing. Garment checking method is the method of testing all what is used in making the garment. Garment checking simply encompasses checking and testing the textile quality, the fabric, the yarn and the fibre. The Concept of Textile Quality: - Textile quality refers to the sum of various properties of textiles that meet the needs of people for use or further processing What is Fabric Testing: - Normally garment is produced from fabric. The fabric can be woven or knitted or knit fabric, solid colour dyed, printed, check, or stripe that is finished fabric. Before making garments from those fabrics especially for large quantities it is called fabrics testing. Objects of Fabrics Testing: 1. To check that the fabric conforms to fabric specification. 2. To note the effect of changes in structural details. 3. To note the effect of physical and chemical treatment, exposure to weather or laundering or washing, etc. 4. To obtain some identification of probable performance in use. 5. To investigate the causes of failure and customers complain. Types of Textile testing • Fibre test: identification of fibre length, elongation and strength, etc. • Yarn test: yarn count, strength, appearance, twist per unit length, etc. • Fabric test: thermal properties, air permeability, thickness, shrinkage, stiffness, elongation, width, crease resistance, number of ends and picks per unit length, weight of fabric per unit length, etc. GSM Cutter: GSM means gram by square meter, and the weight of the textile which includes both knit, woven and non-woven is the designation, as the name implies. It’s a basic tool used to cut a tissue sample for the measurement of the gsm of the textile. The measurement of the fabric is 11.2 cm in diameter. The sample shall be measured and computed for GSM after cutting. Working Procedure: The woven, knit, denim fabric with the GSM cutter should be cut at first. The textiles are grosser, and fabrics are completely coarser than the tissues. We use scissors
  • 14. AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201 14 here to cut the tissue Maintain the weight of the tissue in the electric balance machine after completely cutting the tissue. Digital Fabric Testing Instrument: - Digital Fabric Testing Instrument determines the thickness of jari, yarn, fabric, paper, and film samples etc. accurately. In Digital Fabric Thickness Gauge, the fabric whose thickness is to be determined is kept on a flat anvil and a circular pressure foot is pressed on to it from the top under a standard fixed load. How Digital Fabric Thickness Gauge Works? 1. The fabric sample that is to be measured is kept on an anvil. 2. The press foot is gently lowered on to the specimen. 3. The reading is taken to get the thickness of the specimen. 4. The mean value of all the readings of thickness determined to the nearest 0.01m is calculated and the result is the average thickness of the sample under test. Martindale Abrasion cum Pilling Tester: - is used to check the abrasion as well as pilling resistance of the fabric. It consists of four testing plates on which the abrading fabrics is attached, these four-testing table are mounted on the base plate of the instrument. There is revolving plate, which revolves with the help of three cranks, pegs & motor. How Martindale Abrasion cum Pilling Tester works? 1. 4 specimens of each sample can be tested in each of the specimen holder of the machine. 2. Inspect the specimens without removing them from the holders at regular intervals and note the number of rubs when at least two threads are broken.
  • 15. AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201 15 3. This should be assessed independently for each specimen and the specimens removed when they reach end point. Average weight loss 1. Abrade two specimens to end points as in above case and then abrade further pairs of specimens. 2. Weight all the specimens before and after abrasion and plot a graph of weight loss against the number of rubs. 3. Draw a line through the points and determine the rate of weight loss in mg per 1000 rubs if reasonably linear. Stiffness Tester: -Stiffness Tester is used to determine the stiffness of fabrics. Stiffness provides a quick and accurate method of determining stiffness properties such as flexural rigidity of most textile fabrics and other flexible materials. The principle of Cantilever Test method is used in it. How Stiffness Tester works? 1. The Stiffness Tester is placed on a level surface and the levels are checked with the help of the sprit level. 2. The fabric specimen has to be cut into a size of 150 x 25 mm, with the help of Acrylic Specimen Preparing Template. 3. The test specimen has to be placed flat on the platform of the instrument. 4. The calibrated scale is gently put on the fabric. 5. The marking on the acrylic plate of the Stiffness Tester has to be viewed in the mirror. 6. The scale has to be then gently slide till the leading edges of the test specimen moves away from the scale and bends down till it touches the two inclined lines. 7. Flexural rigidity and Bending modulus are then calculated using the appropriate formula. Water Repellency Tester: Water Repellency Tester measures the resistance of fabrics to wetting by water. Water is used to check the water repellency of the fabric by spray test in textile testing laboratory. Suitable for Table cloth, tapestry, flooring material fabric manufacturer or processors.
  • 16. AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201 16 How Water Repellency Tester Works? 1. Before testing is carried out the specimen shall be conditioned for at least 24 hours in the standard atmosphere. Water sprayed against the taut surface of a test specimen under controlled conditions produces a wetted pattern whose size depends on the relative repellency of the fabric. 2. To carry out the test, first of all fasten the test specimens securely in the metal hoop of the water repellency tester so that it represents a smooth wrinkle free surface and place it face up on the tester. 3. Adjust the metal hoop so that the center of the spray coincides with the centre of the metal hoop. Later pour 250 ml of distilled water at normal temperature into the funnel and spray the whole quantity on the test specimen for a period of 25 – 30 sec. 4. Then rotate it 180°C and similarly tap again once on the point previously held to remove any excess water drop. 5. The final step is to compare the wetting of the test specimen with a photographic rating standard and grade it accordingly. Impact Penetration Tester: Water Impact Penetration Tester tests water penetration resistance of the garment fabrics. Its aim is to test the water absorbency –resistance degree for Waterproof fabric or other material. It is a standard procedure for determining the resistance to water penetration under uniform static air pressure differences. The instrument can be switched between high pressure and low pressure. How Water Penetration Tester works? 1. Clamp one end of the specimen under 152mm spring clamp at the top of the inclined stand. 2. A standard blotter paper 152 x 230 mm is weighed to the nearest 0.1g and inserted beneath the test specimen. 3. Pour the distilled water into the funnel of tester and allow spraying onto the test specimen. 4. The water should be poured into the funnel without imparting any swirling motion of the water in the funnel. 5. Upon completion of the spraying period, the test specimen is carefully lifted, the blotter beneath removed, and then quickly reweighed to the nearest 0.1 g.
  • 17. AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201 17 Shrinkage Template & Scale: - Shrinkage Template & Scale is used for finding accurate Shrinkage in fabric and Garments. Shrinkage Template & Scale also measures the dimensional changes in fabrics after laundering, dry cleaning etc. How Shrinkage Template & Scale works? 1. The marking template should be placed on the specimen to be tested, making sure that the fabric is in flat position before marking. 2. Hold the template firm, and carefully mark the fabric through the eight slots of the template, to ensure that it does not move. 3. Now put the fabric in the washing machine or Dry Cleaning. 4. Dry the sample as per any of the method. It can either be Line Dry or Flat Dry or Tumble Dry. 5. To find the dimensional change read the Shrinkage/Stretch on 3 points on the Wrap side and 3 points on Weft Side. 6. Get the mean value of wrap-wise and weft wise readings to get the Accurate Shrinkage or Stretch. Serviceability-A garment is considered to be serviceable when it is fit for its particular end use. After being used for a certain length of time the garment ceases to be serviceable when it can no longer fill its intended purpose in the was that it did when it was new. The particular factors that reduce the service life of a garment are heavily dependent on its end use. For instance, over- all's worn to protect clothing at work would be required to withstand a good deal of hard usage during their lifetime but their appearance would not be considered. 1 Changes in fashion which mean that the garment is no longer worn its physical state. 2 Shrinkage or other dimensional changes of such a magnitude that the garment will no longer fit. Wearer trials: -The main purpose of laboratory tests is to obtain prior knowledge of the performance of textile products in service. The assumption is made that when such tests are carried out, there is some relationship between the results of the laboratory tests and the performance of the items in use. In order to design laboratory testing procedures that correlate with end use performance the conditions of actual use must be carefully analysed so that they can be simulated as closely as possible in a controlled setting.
  • 18. AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201 18 Digital Pilling Tester: - is used to check the pilling resistance of the fabric. Pilling is a fabric surface fault characterized by little pills of entangled fibres clinging to the surface. Pills are formed during wearing or washing by the entanglement of the loose fibres, which protrude from fabric surface. To determine the tendency to form pills, test specimens taken from the fabric sample are rubbed against each other under controlled conditions. How Digital Pilling Tester works? 1. The very first step is to clean the boxes thoroughly. 2. Then place four mounted test specimens in each box and close the boxes. 3. Later set the pre-set counter at 18000 with the help of the Thumb Wheel setting provided on the Digital Counter. 4. Press the start button. The machine would stop automatically after 18000 revolutions. 5. Now, finally take the specimens and compare them with the photographic rating standards. Crease Recovery Tester: - determines the property of textiles to recover from creases by measurement of the recovery angle. The specimen is first creased under specified load for fixed time and is then transferred to the measurement device, where one end of the specimen is held in a spring-loaded clamp and other is allowed to fall free under its own weight. Now one need to read the scale fixed to moving clamp to know the deflection of the clamped end from the horizontal. This angle gives the measure of the Crease Recovery. How Crease Recovery Tester works? 1. Fold the specimen and if the surfaces of the specimen have a tendency to stick together, place a piece of paper or aluminium foil, between the ends of specimen. 2. Place the folded specimen between the two leaves of the loading device and immediately apply the weight. 3. Start timing device, and after 5mins quickly but smoothly remove the weight from the first specimen. 4. Using tweezers transfer the folded specimen to the instrument’s circular specimen holder. Insert one end of the specimen between the clamps on the 5. While the specimen is in the holder, adjust the instrument to keep the free hanging end of the alignment with the vertical mark. 6. Finally, read and record the recovery angle from the circular scale 5 minutes after inserting the specimen into the clamp.
  • 19. AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201 19 Crock meter: Crock Meter is used to determine by abrasion process the discoloration of the teared cloth or teared leather. This test equipment is designed to monitor the rubbing colour speed of any textile material. The amount of color transferred from one fabric to another is determined. The product is mostly used for textiles, such as teared, printed or coloured fabrics. The test is performed by rubbing the sample constantly against an undyed sample. The transferred color is then tested for a predefined gray size and the score is accordingly allocated. This test is done on two different stages of the fabric, once in the dry state and again repeated when wet. Working procedure: • First, we take the sample. • Then the material is placed on the sandpaper. • Pinned specimen holder is employed to fixed the material. • After that crocking (rubbing) cloth is about 3×5 cm has settled with rubbing finger by spring clip. • Loading unit (9 N) is applied put the finger pinned the operating handle is operated by using of hand. • We give 10 cycle stocks the direction of each cycle stock is 1 sec. • The sample is then collected of gray compound. • Cloth is collected and scale-compounded. FABRIC FLAMMABILITY TEST: - Flammability Flameproof fabrics are absolutely necessary for protective clothing in many industrial processes where chances of inflammable fabrics being ignited are high. In domestic sphere many serious and tragic accidents are the results of clothing catching fire. The visual timing test: A fabric strip is suspended vertically and ignited from the bottom edge, then the rate of flame spread is determined. This method is applicable for slow burning fabrics but not for highly flammable fabric.
  • 20. AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201 20 45º Flame Test: - How this test works: Samples are mounted in a frame and held in a special apparatus at an angle of 45º. A standardized flame is applied to the surface near the lower end for specified amount of time. The flame travels up the length of the fabric to a trigger string, which drops a weight to stop the timer when burned through. The time required for the flame travel the length of the fabric and break the trigger string is recorded, as well as the fabric Vertical Flame Test: - material response to heat and flame is measured and described. A test specimen is positioned vertically above a controlled flame and exposed for a specified period of time. Following exposure, the flame source is removed. Measurements are made on the length of time that the specimen continues to flame and the time afterglow continues after the flame source has been removed. Char length, or visible damage to the test specimen after application of a specified tearing force, is determined. Notations on observations of melting and dripping are also recorded. Method B: Fabrics made from thermoplastic materials don’t burn in a convenient manner for a satisfactory strip test to be made. They melt, shrink, curl away from the flame. In method B the test specimen is hung in the sheet form and the igniting flame applied at right angles to the sheet and near to the bottom edge. The amount of damage and time taken is observed and reported. Method C: This test is concerned with the transmission of flame across pile fabrics. To determine the durability of any flame-resistant treatments the following tests are repeated after washing, drying cleaning or leaching. (The lower speed of propagation of flame over wool, silk, acetate fabrics is due to the fact that they melt and drip during burning) Recent Progress in flammability test Horizontal Flammability Tester – Horizontal Flammability Chamber is used to test textile and material used in vehicles horizontal burning rate when exposure to a small flame. Horizontal Flammability Test Method includes the sample is horizontally clamped on the U-shaped bracket, and is ignited by a predetermined small flame in the combustion chamber for 15 seconds. The flame is ignited at one end of the sample to test the time when the flame spreads to a prescribed distance and the distance of the flame combustion (Vertical flame tester) (45* tester) (horizontal tester) What is tensile strength testing? It is referred to as a strength test where the load is applied along the direction of the test sample. What is tensile strength of Fabric? The tensile strength of the fabric is defined as the maximum amount of tensile stress and tension that fabric can take before breaking. The strip test: - is a tensile test in which the full width of the test specimen is gripped in the tensile grip jaws of a universal testing machine. During this test, tensile force is applied on the fabric specimen until
  • 21. AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201 21 it ruptures. Mechanical properties to analyse include the force at rupture and the elongation (expressed as percentage) at maximum force and/or at rupture. A Grab test:-is a tensile test in which the centre part of the specimen width is gripped in the tensile grip jaws. Due to the way the sample is gripped, edge effects, which may cause inaccurate data for fabrics, are eliminated. Similar to the strip test method, tensile force is applied to the fabric specimen until rupture and maximum force is recorded. Fabric specimens most often tested using the grab method are woven and non-woven textile fabrics. The tongue tear method: - is often used to measure the tear force and the tear strength of a fabric specimen. This method, outlined by ASTM D2261, requires a specific sample preparation where the rectangular fabric specimen is cut to form two tongues on each end which are then placed on upper and lower grips. Once tensile force is applied, the fabric specimen will tear along the mid-line between the tongues. Fabrics to be tested using the tongue tear method include those made from acetate, acrylic, cotton, flax, nylon, olefin, polyester, rayon, silk, and wool. Trapezoidal tear: - is another tear strength test that uses a specimen prepared as an isosceles trapezoid with a small cut on one side. When testing starts and force is applied, the trapezoid tear produces tension along a reasonably defined course such that the tear propagates across the width of the specimen. This test method applies to most fabrics such as woven fabrics, air bag fabrics, blankets, napped, knitted, layered, and pile fabrics Seam strength: - Failure at a seam makes a garment unusable even though the fabric may be in good condition. There are a number of possible causes of seam failure: (1) The sewing thread either wears out or fails before the fabric does. (2) The yarns making up the fabric are broken or damaged by the needle during sewing. (3) Seam slippage occurs. Seam slippage is an inherent property of the fabric and so forms part of the specification for fabrics which are to be made into upholstery and apparel. The other problems listed above are specific to making-up and they depend on the sewing machine used, the sewing thread, the sewing speed, size of sewing needle and stitch length among other factors. Similarly seam strength, although it can be measured in the same way as fabric tensile strength, depends on too many factors to be a useful property of a fabric. Dimensional stability: - The dimensional stability of a fabric is a measure of the extent to which it keeps its original dimensions subsequent to its manufacture. It is possible for the dimensions of a fabric to increase but any change is more likely to be a decrease or shrinkage. Shrinkage is a problem that gives rise to a large number of customer complaints. Some fabric faults such as colour loss or pilling can degrade the appearance of a garment but still leave it usable. Other faults such as poor abrasion resistance may appear late in the life of a garment and to some extent their appearance may be anticipated by judging the quality of the fabric. However, dimensional change can appear early on in the life of a garment so making a complaint more likely Fabric shrinkage can cause problems in two main areas, either during garment manufacture or during subsequent laundering by the ultimate customer. At various stages during garment manufacture the fabric is pressed in a steam press such as a Hoffman press where it is subjected to steam for a short period while being held between the upper and lower platens of the press. WIRA steaming cylinder: -The WIRA steaming cylinder is designed to assess the shrinkage that takes place in a commercial garment press as steam pressing is part of the normal garment making up process. The shrinkage that takes place when a fabric is exposed to steam is classified as relaxation shrinkage not felting or consolidation shrinkage. In the test the fabric is kept in an unconstrained state and
  • 22. AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201 22 subjected to dry saturated steam at atmospheric pressure. These conditions are slightly different from those that occur in a steam press where the fabric is trapped between the upper and lower platens while it is subjected to steam. Four warp and four weft samples are tested, each measuring 300mm X 50mm. They are first preconditioned and then conditioned for 24 h in the standard testing atmosphere in order that the samples always approach condition from the dry side. Air permeability: -The air permeability of a fabric is a measure of how well it allows the passage of air through it. The ease or otherwise of passage of air is of importance for a number of fabric end uses such as industrial filters, tents, sailcloth's, parachutes, raincoat materials, shirting's, down proof fabrics and airbags. Air permeability is defined as the volume of air in millilitres which is passed in one second through 10Os mm2 of the fabric at a pressure difference of 10mm head of water. In the British Standard test the airflow through a given area of fabric is measured at a constant pressure drop across the fabric of 10mm head of water. The specimen is clamped over the air inlet of the apparatus with the use of rubber gaskets and air is sucked through it by means of a pump Thermal comfort: - The human body tries to maintain a constant core temperature of about 370 C. The actual value varies slightly from person to person but the temperature of any one person is maintained within narrow limits. In most climates body temperature is above that of the external environment so that there has to be an internal source of heat in order to maintain the temperature difference. The required heat comes from the body's metabolism, that is the necessary burning of calories to provide power to the muscles and other internal functions. However, the body must be kept in thermal balance Waterproofing: -Waterproofing is very important for the outer layer of a clothing system designed to be worn outdoors. The waterproofing of fabrics can readily be achieved by the use of synthetic polymer coatings; however, the use of simple coatings brings with it the penalty of excess build-up of moisture vapour above certain levels of activity. The design of clothing for comfort and protection in adverse weather conditions is therefore a matter of compromise between the competing requirements. No one fabric or clothing item can fulfil all the requirements, thermal conductivity: - The transmission of heat through a fabric occurs both by conduction through the fibre and the entrapped air and by radiation. Practical methods of test for thermal conductivity measure the total heat transmitted by both mechanisms. The insulation value of a fabric is measured by its thermal resistance which is the reciprocal of thermal conductivity (transmittance) and it is defined as the ratio of the temperature difference between the two faces of the fabric to the rate of flow of heat per unit area normal to the faces. As can be seen from this definition it is necessary to know the rate of heat flow through a fabric in order to be able to measure its thermal resistance. Colour change grey: -scales These scales consist of five pairs of grey coloured material numbered from 1 to 5. Number 5 has two identical greys, number 1 grey scale shows the greatest contrast, and numbers 2, 3 and 4 have intermediate contrasts. After appropriate treatment the specimen is compared with the original untreated material and any loss in colour is graded with reference to the grey scale. When there is no change in the colour of a test specimen it would be classified as '5'; if there is a change it is then classified Wicking test: -In this test a strip of fabric is suspended vertically with its lower edge in a reservoir of distilled water as shown in the rate of rise of the leading edge of the water is then monitored. To detect the position of the water line a dye can be added to the water or, in the case of dark coloured fabrics, the conductivity of the water may be used to complete an electrical circuit. The measured height of rise in a given time is taken as a direct indication of the wickability of the test fabric. Adhesion Coating Testing: - Adhesion coating testing is applicable to fabrics with an adhesive coating compound applied, forming a chemical bond between the adhesive and the fabric material. The bond
  • 23. AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201 23 strength that is created between the coating compound and the fabric material can be measured running adhesion coating tests. If the adhesion is not strong enough, seam strength will decrease. If adhesion is too strong, problems may arise as tear strength will be affected. Standards outlining the minimum required Puncture/Burst Testing: -Puncture testing of fabric specimens determines the strength of a material by measuring the force required to penetrate the specimen. Contact with sharp edged objects in a real- world scenario is simulated by the use of puncture fixtures. Puncture fixtures are often used in the tensile direction but may also be used in the compressive direction. In order to calculate the specimen puncture resistance, the specimen is first stretched and placed on the ring clamp mechanism of the puncture fixture Constant Rate of Elongation (CRE): -Constant rate of elongation tests are tests used to determine the strength of textile materials. In constant rate of elongation tests, the specimen is extended at a constant rate and the force is a dependent quantity. It is possible in constant rate of elongation tests for load to decrease while elongation increases. Constant Rate of Loading (CRL): -Constant rate of loading tests are tests used to determine the strength of textile materials. In constant rate of loading (CRL) tests, the specimen is loaded at a constant rate and the elongation is a dependent quantity. It is not possible in constant rate of loading tests for load to decrease. Load must increase all the time. CRT: Pulling one clamp at a uniform rate and the load is applied through the other clamp. Which moves appreciably to actuate a load measuring mechanism so that the rate of increase of either load or elongation is usually not constant. (CRL) (CRE) (CRT) Fabric friction: - One of these methods is shown diagrammatically in In this method a block of mass m is pulled over a flat rigid surface which is covered with the fabric being tested. The line connected to the block is led around a frictionless pulley and connected to an appropriate load cell in a tensile testing machine. This can measure the force F required both to start the block moving and also to keep it moving, thus providing the static and dynamic coefficients of friction from the relation:
  • 24. AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201 24 Appearance Evaluation after Home laundering and dry-cleaning: Test method to evaluate the overall general appearance of a garment and other textile products after repeated home laundering and dry-cleaning. Colorfastness to Light: Test to evaluate the colorfastness property of textiles when subject to light exposure. Colourfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach: Test to evaluate the colourfastness performance of a textile fabric when subjected to the action of Non-Chlorine Bleach Dimensional stability to dry-clean: Test to determine the dimensional stability (shrinkage or elongation) in woven and knit fabrics when subject to commercial dry-cleaning. Dimensional stability to Home Laundering: Test to determine the dimensional stability (shrinkage or elongation) in woven and knit fabrics when subjected to home laundering Fabric weight: Test to determine the weight of textile fabrics in garments generally at 70 Fare height/21 degrees Celsius and 65% relative humidity. Flammability: The purpose of this test is to test and rate the flammability of textiles and discouraging the use of any dangerously flammable clothing. Formaldehyde: Test to determine the residual presence of Formaldehyde in textile products finished with chemicals containing formaldehyde. Mechanical Hazard/Sharp edges: Test to evaluate clothing or toys intended for use by infants/toddlers for any measurable risk of injury by laceration or incision. Mechanical Hard/Sharp Points: Test to evaluate clothing or toys intended for use by infants/toddlers for any measurable risk of injury by puncture or laceration. Mechanical Hazard/Small parts: Test to evaluate clothing or toys intended for use by infants/toddlers for any unreasonable risk of small parts choking hazard. PH Value: Test to indicate the efficiency of washing operation after various wet treatment either bleaching or scouring.
  • 25. AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201 25 Skewness in Fabric: Test to evaluate the percentage of torque in a garment, which may occur during laundering procedures commonly used by consumers at home Snap/De-snap: test to determine the force required to disengage snap fastness by a pull perpendicular and parallel with the plain of the snap fastener. Thread Count: Test to determine the number of Warp and Weft yarns or Wales/courses per unit distance in woven or knitted fabrics respectively. Yarn size: Test to determine the size of fineness (linear density of a yarn expressed either as mass per unit length or length per unit mass depending upon yarn numbering system of all types of cotton, woollen, worsted or manmade fabrics in measurable length.) Fabric defects by name: 1. horizontal line, selvedge, broken warp and weft, loose warp and weft, snarl, double end, tight end, float warp, wrong colour end, missing pick, double pick weft bar ,ball, hole oil spot, tail out, temple mark, reed mark, slub, thick or thin end, stain garment, drop stitch, neps, abrasion mark, needle line, missing end, 2. Birdseye: Caused by unintentional tucking from malfunctioning needle. Usually two small distorted stitches, side by side 3. Bowing: Usually caused by finishing. In knits the course lines lie in an arc across width of goods. Critical on stripes or patterns and not as critical on solid colour fabrics. 4. Broken Colour Pattern: Usually caused by colour yarn out of place on frame. www. Assignment. Point. com 5. Crease Streak: Occurs in tubular knits. Results from creased fabric passing through squeeze rollers in the dyeing process. 6. Drop Stitches Results from malfunctioning needle or jack. Will appear as holes, or missing stitches. 7. End Out: Occurs in Warp knit. Results from knitting machine continuing to run with missing end 8. Hole: caused by broken needle. 9. Missing Yarn: Occurs in warp knit. Results from wrong fibre yarn (or wrong size yarn) placed on warp. Fabric could appear as thick end or different colour if fibres have different affinity for dye.
  • 26. AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201 26 GARMENT DYEING PROCESS Garment dyeing may be defined as the application of colour to fully fashioned apparel articles, may be in the form of garments cut and sewn either prepared or unprepared knitted fabrics and then dyed, garments and / or components knitted from either prepared or unprepared yarn and then dyed, garments manufactured from either prepared or unprepared woven fabric and then dyed and mixed fabric garments i.e., woven and knitted fabrics manufactured from prepared fabrics and then dyed 1. Advantages of Garment Dyeing Handling of smaller lots economically 2. Enables diverse particular effects to achieved 3. Distressed hold off tin hold upward effectively imparted 4. Unsold calorie-free shades tin hold upward converted into medium too deep shades Why Garment dyeing? Traditionally, garments are constructed from fabrics that are pre-dyed (piece dyed) before the actual cutting and sewing. The advantage of this process is the cost effectiveness of mass- producing identical garments of particular colours. Paddle dyeing machines
  • 27. AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201 27 A process of dyeing textiles in a machine that gently move the goods using paddles similar to a paddle wheel on a boat. This is a slow process, but there is extremely little abrasion on the goods. Horizontal Paddle Machines (overhead paddle machine) consist of a curved beck like lower suction to contain the materials and the dye liquor. The goods are moved by a rotating paddle, which extends across the width of the machine. Half immersed paddles cause the material to move upwards and downwards throughout the liquor. The temperature can be raised to 98o C in such system. In lateral / oval paddle machines consist of oval tank to enhance the fluid flow and the processing the goods. In the middle of this tank is a closed oval island. The paddle moves in a lateral direction and is not half submerged in the liquor and the temperature can be increased up to 98o C. HT Paddle Machines: - work according to the principle of horizontal paddle machine, however, the temperature can be raised up to 140o C. PES articles are preferably dyed on HT paddles. In paddle machines, the dyeing can be carried out with 30:1 to 40:1, lower ratios reduce optimum movement of the goods, lead to unlevel dyeing, crease formation. For gentleness, the blades of the paddle are either curved or have rounded edges and the rotating speed of the paddle can be regulated from 1.5 to 40 rpm. Circulation of the liquor should be strong enough to prevent goods from sinking to the bottom. Paddle machines are suitable for dyeing articles of all substrates in all forms of make ups. The goods are normally dyed using PP/PET bags. Rotary Drum Dyeing Machines and Tumbler dyeing Machines These machines work on the principle of “movement of textile material and a stationary liquor". The rotary drum dyeing machine consists of rotating perforated cylindrical drum, which rotates slowly inside a vessel of slightly bigger in size. The internal drum is divided into compartments to ensure rotation of goods with the drum rotation, and the outer vessel holds the required quantity of dye liquor. High temperature drum machines are capable of processing the garments up to 140o Drum dyeing-centrifuging machines are also called “multipurpose drum machines” or “multi-rapid dyeing centrifuging machines” since these machines can perform scouring, dyeing, centrifuging and conditioning successively with automated controls. Features of modern rotary-dyeing equipment include the following: 1. lower liquor ratio 2. gentle movement of goods and liquor (minimizes surface abrasion)
  • 28. AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201 28 3. rapid heating and cooling 4. centrifugal extraction Tumbler Dyeing Machines: - These machines are being used for small garments either in loose form or in open mesh bags. Design wises the tumbler dyeing machines are similar to the commercial laundering machines. The principle of operation is to load the material into perforated inner SS tanks, which rotates round a horizontal shaft fixed at the back of the drum. The drum is divided into compartments for moving the goods with rotation of drum. A variety of tumbling machines have higher rotation speeds and can spin dry at the end of the cycle. These are similar to dry- cleaning machines. Rotating drum machines are more efficient and cleaner to operate than paddle machines. The more vigorous mechanical action often promotes more shrinkage and bulking, which may be desirable for some articles. In order to handle higher quantities and large production of similar pieces the latest machines are provided with several automatic features and sophistications. Toroid Dyeing machines In these machines the garments circulate in the liquor in a toroidal path with the aid of an impeller situated below the perforated false bottom of the vessel. Movement of the goods depends completely on the pumped action of the liquor. High-temperature versions of this machine operating at 120 to 130°C were developed in the 1970s for dyeing fully-fashioned polyester or triacetate garments. The liquor ratio of such machines is about 30:1. Lateral / oval paddle Peddle:-These machines consist of oval tank to enhance the fluid flow and the processing the goods. In the middle of this tank is a closed oval island. Island The
  • 29. AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201 29 paddle moves in a lateral direction and is not half Circulation submerged in the liquor. Dye Bath. The temperature can be increased up to 98* The Gyrobox dyeing machine The machine has support in the form of a large wheel, which is divided into 12 independent non radial compartments. The goods are placed in these compartments. The wheel runs at a moderate speed of 2- 6 rpm.The main advantage of this machine are, 1.Reduced M:L 2.Different types of garments can be dyed simultaneously . 3.Flexible loading 4.Fully automatic operation. The MCS Readymade garment dyeing machine- The MCS Readymade garment dyeing machine the roto dye machines are suitable for dyeing pure cotton, wool, polyester, cotton blends in the form of T shirts, sweaters, bath rugs and accessories, socks and stockings. Modified Pegg Toroid Whitely Garment Dyeing Machine This is an improved version of Toroid machines; the additional features are the machine is suitable for both atmospheric too clit per unit of measurement area dyeing. Full automation up to hydro extraction. The pattern features, speed too performance is simplified to brand the machine to a greater extent than versatile too gratuitous from operating problems. Textile product labelling A garment label is a communicator between the buyer and the product. A garment label contains various types of information of that garment, such as buyer name, country of origin, types of fabric, types of yarn, fabric composition, garments size, special instruction about care, etc. Washing and Care Instructions
  • 30. AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201 30 Size of cloth labels Size of cloth MEN'S BODY SIZING CHART* XS S M L XL XXL Chest 33" - 36" 36" - 39" 39" - 41" 41" - 43" 43" - 46" 46" - 49" Waist 27" - 30" 30" - 33" 33" - 35" 36" - 38" 38" - 42" 42" - 45" Hip 33" - 36" 36" - 39" 39" - 41" 41" - 43" 43" - 46" 46" - 49" XL Size (Extra Large), XXL Size (Double Extra Large), XXL (Double Extra Large) XXXL (Triple Extra-large)
  • 31. AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201 31 Brand labels of cloths India’s clothing market, also known as the ready-made garment market, has enjoyed a sustainable growth of the recent decades, many top garment manufacturers in India have also become some of the world’s leading clothing suppliers and they have achieved great success in key areas of clothing manufacturing, exports, sales, and employment for India’s textiles sector, as well as contributing a great deal to the country’s GDP growth in recent years. According to data from McKinsey’s Fashion Scope, India’s clothing and garment market is forecast to be worth over $59.3 billion in 2022, maintain its leading position as the sixth largest clothing manufacturing country in the world.
  • 32. AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201 32 CONCLUSION Testing and quality control is the essential thing in textile without which we cannot give the performance assurance of textile product. Quality control Quality promotion Comparative product evaluation Performing failure analysis new product development Research Checking the quality and suitability of raw material and selection of material. Monitoring of production i.e., process control. Assessment of final product, whether the quality is acceptable or not, (how will be the yarn performance in weaving? etc), Investigation of faulty materials (analysis of customer complaint, identification of fault in machine etc. Product development and research.Though it helps to assure performance, it is necessary to do the testing and control of quality very carefully and required skilled workers. So that quality of a manufactured textile product can meet the standard norms and satisfy the customer’s need Quality is a relative term. It means customer needs is to be satisfied. Quality is of prime importance in any aspect of business. is very important work or process. Testing In response to ever-changing governmental regulations and the ever-increasing consumer demand for high quality, soft lines testing and textile testing help to minimize risk and protect the interest of both manufacturers and consumers. It is important that testing is not undertaken without adding some benefit to the final product. So various Steps of Textile & Garments manufacturing where in-process Testing, inspection and quality control are done to avoid reproduction, reprocessing and minimize wastage garments manufacturers inspection the fabric stock upon arrival, Fabric inspection ensures to minimize the rejection of cut panels or rejected garments due to fabric faults. Cutting inspected and approved fabric ensures not only finished garment quality but also reduces rejects, improves efficiency and timely deliveries. And appearance with instruction/description and/or sample received. There are different types of inspection following by inspectors as requirement of consumers. After identification of fabric defects, a system needs to be followed to grade the defects to ascertain its acceptance or rejection. AQL,10-point inspection ,4-Point fabric inspection system, Dallas System Traffic Light System, Graniteville "78" system and using 7QC Tool using identify faults and any problem of system and get a solution is mostly used in textile industry around the globe now So the fabric inspection system is very important in manufacturing process for get desirable quality of garments. Garment dyeing Comparatively lower cost of production for any item of any color and shade. Comparatively less time is required to produce and supply garments. No possibility of shade variation within the garments. Small lots of different items could be produced at lower cost within less time. Comparatively lower cost of production for any item of any colour and shade. Comparatively less time is required to produce and supply garments. No possibility of shade variation within the garments. fabric dyeing is continuing process and semi continue process roll on fabric dyeing in same colour and same shade major different of garments dye and fabric dye and fabric dyeing in more time-consuming process HTHP,WINCH,Jigger,beam dyeing machine using fabric dyeing and Paddle dyeing machines HT Paddle Machines,Lateral / oval paddle Peddle, The Gyrobox small garment dyeing m/c lots of different items could be produced at lower cost within less time. Old garments could be re-dyed, hence becomes like new garments Desizing, scouring, bleaching, Dyeing and finishing could be done in the same machine.
  • 33. AKSHAY SEN 18EMBTT201 33 REFRENCES Textileleaner:https://www.google.com/search?q=textile+learner&rlz=1C1GCEJ_enIN931IN 932&oq=te&aqs=chrome.2.69i57j69i59l3j0i131i433j0i433j0i131i433l2j0i433j0i131i433.201 2j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 NPTEL: - https://nptel.ac.in/courses/116/102/116102029/ indiatextile:-https://indiantextilejournal.com/articles/FAdetails.asp?id=4664 Slide share: - https://www.slideshare.net/ChamalJayasinghe/fabric-inspections Book of physical testing of textile by B P saville book of Fabric testing by jinlian HU book of textile testing 150 Er p.rangari (IIHT CHAMPA) principle of textile testing IIHT Indian textile: - https://indiantextilejournal.com/articles/FAdetails.asp?id=4664 researchgatehttps://www.researchgate.net/publication/335038934_Testing_of_Fibres_Yarns _and_Fabrics_and_Their_Recent_Developments online clothing: https://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2017/08/the-top-30-textile-apparel- clothing.html textile apex: https://textileapex.blogspot.com/2015/04/advantages-of-garments-dyeing.html textile study: - https://textilestudycenter.com/inspection-steps-in-garments-inspection/ https://www.uptons.com.au/garment-care/care-labels/ textile adviser: - https://www.textileadvisor.com/search?q=garment+dyeing+machine+ https://priveeparis.in/pages/size-chart-india "Textile". Merriam-Webster. Archived from the original on 2011-11-09. Retrieved 2012-05-25. Sarkar, Prasanta. Garment Manufacturing: Processes,Practices and Technology "Camera Based Visual Fabric Inspection". Apparel Resources. Retrieved 2020-12-25. https://garmentspedia.blogspot.com/2016/05/list-of-garment-dyeing-machine.html blog: https://sosopoetry.blogspot.com/2018/12/garment-dyeing-how-to-garment-dyeing.html?m=1 dyeing world: - http://dyeingworld1.blogspot.com/2010/01/garment-dyeing-machines.html