Industrial attachment of Sadma fashion wear ltd

Industrial Training Report Sadma adma Fashion Wear Ltd.
Southeast University 1 | P a g e
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INDUSTRIAL TRAINING
Course Code: Tex -4036
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT OF Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd.

CHAPTER ONE
Company Profile

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1.1. Company Profile at a glance
1.
Factory
: Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd.
2.
Factory Address
: Mouchak, Kaliakoir, Gazipur, Bangladesh. Phone: 88-02-9298027-8, 88-02-9298048.
3.
Head Office
: Oriental Plaza, house # 3, Flat # B1, Road # 4,
Block # F, Banani, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Phone : 88-02-8834825, 88-02-9871911, Fax # 88-02-9870502
commerce@sadmafashion.com / commerce.sf@gmail.com
4.
Chairman
: Md. Lokman Hossain
Mobile : 01713-038619,01713-245582
5.
Managing Director
: Md. Nasir Uddin Mobile : 01713-245588 nasir@sadmafashion.com / nasir.sf@gmail.com
6.
Director
: Jahir Uddin Mamun
Mobile : 01713-085117
mamun@sadmafashion.com / mamun.sf@gmail.com
7.
Contact Person
: 1. Md. Al-Amin
General Manager, Garments
Mobile : 01713-245585
garments@sadmafashion.com / garments.sf@gmail.com
2. Roushan Zamir Rony
General Manager, Dyeing
Mobile : 01912-201117 , 01713-245593 dyeing@sadmafashion.com , dyeing.sf@gmail.com
3. Md. Masudur Rahman General Manager, Knitting Mobile : 01711676758

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knitting@sadmafashion.com
8. Year of Establishment : 07.01.2002
9. Paid Up Capital : 40, 000, 00. 00
10. EPB Registration : 4224
11. Bank : SOCIAL ISLAMI BANK LIMITED.
Foreign Exchange Branch, Motijheel C/A, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
TEL: 9571254 FAX: 9571100
Factory A/C NO: 13300009963
Bank Swift No: SOIVBDDHFEX
12. Product Mix : Single jersey plain fabric, Pique, Single lacoste, 1x1 rib,
2x2 rib, Plain interlock
13. Main Product : T-shirt, Polo shirt and different types of Men’s, Lady’s
& Kid’s wear in varies kinds of knit fabric.
1.2. Office Staff
A large team of Technical personnel are directly working, assisting the workers & Coordinating pattern, cutting, sewing, quality & finishing-packing. About 200 people are working as a Supervisor, Line chief, Floor in-charge, Section Manager.
1.3. Quality Policy
Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. is totally committed to provide quality products that always meet the needs and expectations of customers for reliability, safety, and economy and on- time delivery of shipments. To achieve this objective, Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. provides all the necessary resources to ensure a well-equipped and adequately trained, and experienced manpower to take proper care of customer requirements. Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. Emphasized that quality is the shared responsibility of its entire staff. The

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company ensures that all personnel are familiar with, and work to the company’s work practices as well in conformity with the legal and other obligatory requirements and are determined to comply with the requirements of Buyer’s expectation e.g. code of conduct, social compliance and continually improve its production and Quality Assurance Department. To manufacture quality products and Customer satisfaction is the company’s goal.
1.4. Welfare Facilities
 Induction of workers welfare committee aimed at improving workers morale, job satisfaction & attendance.
 Canteen facilities.
 Subsidized lunch for staff.
 Free snacks for workers.
 Full time free of medical service provide by a professional doctor.
 Provision for day care center for workers children, annual picnic.
 Cultural function.
 Each floor has sufficient number of washroom.
 Each floor has sufficient lighting to facilitate production.
 A large dining hall is in the factory including pure drinking water & well sitting arrangement.
 Maternity leave & benefit for female workers are provided as per labor law.
1.5. Compliance
Factory are obeying and maintaining international and local law’s, Human rights, Social compliance, Labor law and other rules and instruction by related department of Government.
1.6. Recruitment policy
 No child labor in this factory.
 No gender discrimination in recruitment procedure.
 There is no force labor.

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1.7. Different Departments
 Knitting
 Dyeing
 Finishing
 Garments
 Utility
 Maintenance
 Quality Assurance
 Planning
 Research & Development
 Admin
 HR & Compliance
1.8. Present Buyers
 C & A (Germany)
 Zellers (Canada)
 George (U.K)
 Sears (Canada)
 Sainsbury (U.K)
 Diplomat Fashion (U.S.A)
 Matalan (U.K)
 Artextyl (U.S.A / France)
 S F G (Australia)
 Xios (U.S.A)
 Vayla (U.S.A)
 Walmart (U.S.A)
 Emporio Junior(Italy)
 Pierre Cardin (Italy)
 Carrefour Import Sas (France)

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Primeasia University 6 | P a g e

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1.9. Certification
ISO 9001:2008, WRAP.
Member: Bangladesh Garments Manufactures & Exporters Association (BGMEA)

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1.10. Production Capacity
Production Capacity Knitting : 12000 Kgs Per Day Production Capacity Dyeing & Finishing : 8000 Kgs Per Day Production Capacity Garments : 20000 Pcs. Per Day Production lead time : 45-90 Days
1.11.
Production Area
Knitting space
: 5000 sq. feet
Dyeing space
: 34000 sq. feet
Finishing Goods & Store
: 5500 sq. feet
2nd Floor
: 5500 sq. feet
3rd Floor
: 6500 sq. feet
4th Floor
: 6500 sq. feet
5th Floor
: 6500 sq. feet
6th Floor
: 6500 sq. feet
Other space
Total space
: 2000 sq. feet
: 77000 sq. feet

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1.12. Man power Management
Organogram of Knitting section
General Manager
Production Manager
Store In charge Supervisor Quality In charge
Operator
Helper

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Organogram of Dyeing & Finishing section
GM
DGM
PM
SPO Batch In ccharge
Finishing In
charge
Lab In
charge
PO APO
Supervisor
Sewing man
Turning m/c
Operator
Sewing man
Squeeze
Operator
Lab
Technician
Q.C. Technician
Operator
Helper
Dryer
Operator
Helper
Helper
Compactor
Operator

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Factory Building

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CHAPTER TWO
Knitting Section

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2.1. Process Definition
Knitting is a method by which thread or yarn may be turned into cloth or other fine crafts. Knitting consists of consecutive loops, called stitch. As each row progresses, a new loop is pulled through an existing loop. The active stitches are held on a needle until another loop can be passed through them. This process eventually results in final product, often a garment.
2.2. Raw Materials for Knitting
1. Yarn
2. Lycra
2.3. Source of Raw Material
- Saiham cotton mills ltd.
- Shamsuddin spinning
- Matam spinning
- A T &T spinning
- N.Z. spinning
- PHP spinning
- Zubayer spinning
- Square Yarns ltd.
- Maksons spinning
- Rising spinning
- Anwar Mannan Textile
- J.K. spinning
- The Delta spinning
- R.K. spinning
- Jamuna spinning
- Shiria spinning
- Tara spinning
- Karim spinning
- Paradise spinning
- Out pace spinning
- Silver line composite
- GPI Textiles, India
- BKM, Indonesia
- Hysoung, Vietnum etc.

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2.4. Classification of Knitting section
Knitting section is divided into two parts-
1. Circular knitting section.
2. Fabric inspection section.
2.4.1. Circular Knitting section
There are two types of machines available in this area-
1. Single jersey and
2. Double jersey.
2.4.2. Machine description of circular Knitting section
SL. No.
Machine
Brand
Origin
Machine
Diameter
Gauge
Feeder
Quantity
1
S/J
Runshan
China
20”
24
60
3 set
2
S/J
Runshan
China
22”
24
66
2 set
3
S/J
Runshan
China
18”
24
54
2 set
4
S/J
Runshan
Chine
19”
24
57
2 set
5
S/J
Runshan
Chine
21”
24
63
2 set
6
D/J
Fukahama
Taiwan
40”
18
84
1 set
7
S/J
Fukahama
Taiwan
26”
24
78
1 set
8
S/J
Zentex
Singapore
30”
24
90
1 set
9
S/J
Fukahama
Taiwan
32”
24
96
1 set
10
S/J
Fukahama
Taiwan
24”
24
72
1 set
11
S/J
Masa
Taiwan
34”
20
102
1 set
12
S/J
Masa
Taiwan
32”
20
96
1 set
13
S/J
Lisky
Taiwan
21”
24
63
1 set
14
S/J
Lisky
Taiwan
25”
24
75
1 set
15
S/J
Lisky
Taiwan
19”
24
57
1 set
16
S/J
Masa
Taiwan
38”
24
114
1 set
17
S/J
Masa
Taiwan
36”
20
108
1 set
18
S/J
Boshuo
China
40”
24
120
1 set
19
S/J
Boshuo
China
38”
24
114
1 set
20
D/J
Lisky
Taiwan
40”
24
84
1 set
21
S/J
Lisky
Taiwan
28”
24
84
1 set
22
S/J
Boshuo
China
36”
24
108
2 set
23
S/J
Boshuo
China
34”
24
102
2 set
24
S/J
Yong cheng
Taiwan
26”
24
78
2 set
25
S/J
Yong cheng
Taiwan
30”
24
90
2 set
26
S/J
Yong cheng
Taiwan
24”
24
72
2 set
27
S/J
Zentex
Singapore
20”
24
60
2 set
28
S/J
Bushuo
China
25”
24
74
1 set

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2.5. Fabric Inspection section
There is one machine in cloth inspection section. Specification of this machine is given below:
Machine name
Perfect fabric check machine
Manufacturer
Seven Star Engineering
Country
Bangladesh
Year of manufacturing
2008
2.6. Production Process
2.6.1. Process Flow chart of Knitting in Sadma
Sample fabric Design analysis Machine selection
Setting the machine for the specific design
Yarn in cone form
Feeding the yarn cone in the creel
Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip-tape positive feeding arrangement and tension devices
Knitting

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Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting
Inspection
Numbering
2.6.2. Description of Production Process
In every mill, a sequence is maintained in production processing. It is also followed in this mill. The process sequences are in list below:
1) Firstly, knitting manager gets a production shit from the merchandiser as accordance as consumer requirements then he informs or orders production officer about it.
2) Production officer informs technical in charge and knows about machine in which the production will be running.
3) Technical in charge calls for leader of mechanical fitter troops, they two take decision about machine for production considering machine condition, production capacity, maintenance complexity, etc.
4) Production officer with experienced mechanical fitter adjusts required stitch length and grey GSM for required final GSM.
5) Supervisor checks daily production regularity and make operator conscious about finishing task due time.
6) Operators operate machine in high attention as if there were no faults in the fabrics. If he thinks or sure about any fabric fault, then he calls for the mechanical fitters in duty. Mechanical fitter then fixes it if he can or he informs technical in charge. Then he comes in spot.
7) After required production and final inspection in 4-point system, they sent in dyeing section.

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0
/
ourse /
C
o. o
PM 
Cours
2.7. Production Parameter
1. Machine Diameter
2. Machine rpm (revolution per minute)
3. No. of feeds or feeders in use
4. Machine Gauge
5. Count of yarn
6. Required time (M/C running time)
7. Machine running efficiency
2.8. Relationship between Knitting Parameters
1. GSM increase with the increase of stitch length.
2. If stitch length increase then fabric width increase and WPI decrease.
3. If machine gauge increase then fabric width decrease.
4. If yarn count increase (courser) then fabric width increase.
5. If shrinkage increases then fabric width decrease but GSM and WPI increase.
6. For finer gauge, finer count yarn should use.
7. Grey GSM should be less than finish GSM.
2.9. Production Calculation
A. Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency
 RPM No. of Feeder No. of Needle  SL(mm)
3527.80 Yarn count
B. Production/shift in meter
 Course / min .
 R
C. Fabric width in meter
e cm
N
f Feeder  60 8
cm  1 0
 Efficiency
 Total no. of wales
Wales / cm 100
 Total no. of Needles used in k nitting
Wales / cm 100

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2.10. Considerable Points to produce knitted fabric
When buyers order for fabric then they mention some points related to production and quality. Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to consider. These includes-
- Type of Fabric or design of Fabric.
- Finished G.S.M.
- Yarn count.
- Types of yarn (combed or carded).
- Diameter of the fabric.
- Stitch length.
- Color depth.
2.11. G S M
It is a technical term that indicates the weight of the fabric per square meter. Points considered while setting grey GSM:
- Level
- Enzyme Color
- Suited or non- suited
Changing of GSM:
- Major control by VDQ pulley.
- Minor control by stitch length adjustment.
- Altering the position of the tension pulley changes the G.S.M. of the fabric. If pulley moves towards the positive direction then the G.S.M. will decrease. And in the reverse direction G.S.M will increase.
2.12. Factors should change in case of Fabric Design
- Cam setting
- Set of needle
- Size of loop shape
2.13. Effect of Stitch length on color depth
If the depth of color of the fabric is high loop length should be higher because in case of fabric with higher loop length is less compact. In dark shade dye take up% is high so GSM is adjusted then. Similarly in case of light shade loop length should be relatively smaller.

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2.14. Responsibilities of a Production Officer
 Monitor and control shift wise production, plant utilization, waste generation etc. implement correct work methods and maintain all records related to production.
 Responsible for systematic planning and execution of production programs.
 Adequate control over process in order to achieve quality of product & better waste management.
 Monitor shift wise production, utilization etc. and take corrective action for any shortfall.
 Maintain all the procedure of his department and shall incorporate amendments as and when required in procedure.
 Responsibilities for monitoring the performance of manpower under him and identification of training needs.
2.15. Methods of Increasing Production
By the following methods the production of knitted fabric can be increased –
1. By increasing m/c speed: Higher the m/c speed faster the movement of needle and ultimately production will be increased. But it has to make sure that excess tension is not imposed on yarn because of this high speed.
2. By increasing the number of feeder: If the number of feeder is increased in the circumference of cylinder, then the number of courses will be increased in one revolution at a time.
3. By using machine of higher gauge: The more the machine gauge, the more the production . So by using machine of higher gauge production can be increased.
4. By imposing automation in the m/c: a) Quick starting & stopping for efficient driving system. b) Automatic m/c lubrication system for smoother operation. c) Photo electric fabric fault detector.
5. By imposing other developments: a) Using creel-feeding system. b) Applying yarn supply through plastic tube that eliminates the possibilities of yarn damage. C) Using yarn feed control device.
2.16. Faults and Their Causes in Knitting
1. Hole
Causes:

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• Holes are the results of yarn breakage or yarn cracks.
• During loop formation the yarn breaks in the rejoin of the needle hook.
• If the yarn count is not correct on regarding structure, gauge, course and density.
• Badly knot or splicing.
• Yarn feeder badly set. Remedies:
• Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as uniform.
• Use proper count of yarn.
• Correctly set of yarn feeder.
• Knot should be given properly.
2. Needle Mark
Causes:
• When a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the fabrics.
• If a needle or needle hook is slightly bends then needle mark comes on the fabrics. Remedies:
• Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch.
3. Sinker Mark
Causes:
• When sinker corrode due to abrasion then some times can not hold a new loop as a result sinker mark comes.
• If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes. Remedies:
• Sinker should be changed
4. Star
Causes:

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• Yarn tension variation during production.
• Buckling of the needle latch.
• Low G.S.M fabric production. Remedies:
• Maintain same Yarn tension during production.
• Use good conditioned needles.
5. Drop Stitches
Causes:
• Defective needle.
• If yarn is not properly fed during loop formation i.e. not properly laid on to the needle hook.
• Take-down mechanism too loose.
• Insufficient yarn tension.
• Badly set yarn feeder. Remedies:
• Needle should be straight & well.
• Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation.
• Correct take up of the fabric & correct fabric tension.
• Yarn tension should be properly.
6. Oil stain
Causes:
• When oil lick through the needle trick then it pass on the fabrics and make a line.
Remedies:
• Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics.
• Well maintenance as well as proper oiling.

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7. Rust stain
Causes:
• If any rust on the machine parts. Remedies:
• If any rust on the machine parts then fix it.
• Proper maintenance as well as proper oiling.
8. Pin hole
Causes:
• Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the fabric. Remedies:
• Change the needle.
9. Cloth fall- out
Causes:
• Cloth fall- out can occur after a drop stitch especially when an empty needle with an empty needle with closed latch runs into the yarn feeder and remove the yarn out of the hook of the following needles.
Remedies:
• Make sure all the latches of needle are closed with feeding yarn after a drop stitch.
10. Fly dust:
Causes:
• In knitting section too much lint is flying to and fro that are created from yarn due to low twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere or attaches to the fabric surface tightly during knit fabric production.
Remedies:
• Blowing air for cleaning the different parts after a certain period of time.
• By cleaning the floor continuously.

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• By using suction system for cleaning too much lint on the floor.
• Over all ensure that lint does not attach to the fabric.
11. Yarn contamination
Causes:
• If yarn contains foreign matters then it remains in the fabric even after finishing,
• If lot or count mixing occurs. Remedies:
• By avoiding lot & count mixing.
• Fault less spinning.
12. Yarn Faults:
• Neps.
• Slubs.
• Yarn count variations.
• Thick/Thin place in yarn.
• Hairiness.
• Dead Fiber.
2.17. Fabric Inspection system
Before batching the fabric is required to check. In this section fabric is check out. In this industry
4-point system is used for inspection. By using this system-
 The defects are identified in the roll and marked by red arrows
 Individually the length of defect is measured and record
 Then measure penalty point
2.18. Different Fabric GSM and Their Yarn Count
S/J without lycra –

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Fabric G.S.M
Yarn Count
110 - 120
40s – 36 s
120 - 130
36s – 32s
130 - 140
32s – 28s
140 - 150
28s
150 - 160
26s
170 - 210
24s
Rib without lycra –
Fabric G.S.M
Yarn Count
180 - 190
36s – 32s
190 - 200
30s
200 - 215
28s
215 - 230
26s
230 - 250
24s
250 - 300
24s
Interlock without lycra –
Fabric G.S.M
Yarn Count
200 - 220
34s
220 - 230
32s
230 - 250
30s
250 - 300
26s
Lacoste without lycra –
Fabric G.S.M
Yarn Count
180 - 190
30s
190 - 210
28s
210 - 230
26s
230 – 250
26s
40D Lycra Rib –

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Fabric G.S.M
Yarn Count
230 - 240
32s
240 - 250
30s
250 - 280
26s
280 - 300
24s
40D Lycra S/J –
Fabric G.S.M
Yarn Count
180 - 190
34s
190 - 210
32s
210 - 220
30s
220 – 240
28s
240 - 250
26s
2.19. Different parts of Knitting Machine
Sl. No.
Name of the Parts
Function
01
Creel
All the side of machine, it holds
the yarn package
02
Tube
Yarn is drawn through this for
security and avoiding mixing waste.
03
Positive feeder
Wind the yarn from package and
send to needle for reducing tension
04
Toothed belt
All the feeders are driven by it.
05
VDQ pulley
Change the stitch length .So the
G.S.M is maintained.
06
Thread guide
Supply yarn to needle from very
short distance.
07
Needle
Main part of the machine, it helps
to form loop.
08
Needle bed
It can be cylinder or dial which
holds the needle
09
Cam
Direct the needle, sinker to form
different kinds of loops.
10
Needle detector
It can detect the needle breakage,
jumping etc.
11
Take up roller
Draw the formed fabric at
downwards.
12
Pressure roller
Press the fabric with take up

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roller.
13
Batch roller
Wind the fabric into its surface to
form roll.
14
Blower
Removes the dirts, flocks from
the machine
15
Air nozzle
Clean the needle, sinker trick
plate etc.
16
Lubricating parts
Lubricate the cam, sinker, needle
and other gearings
2.20. Images of Machines and Machine parts
Circular Knitting Machine
Dust remover fan Meter

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VDQ Pulley Cam
Positive Feeder Yarn guide
Needle Sinker

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Take up roller Creel
Fabric Inspection Machine
2.21. Quality Assurance
After collecting fabric rolls from different machines, these fabrics need to inspect thoroughly by the quality inspectors to assure required quality before dyeing.
Some points are needed to maintain for higher Quality fabric. These are-
1) Brought good quality yarn.
2) Machines are oiled and greased accordingly.
3) G.S.M, Stitch length, Tensions are controlled accurately.

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4) Machines are cleaned every shift and servicing is done after a month.
5) Grey Fabrics are checked by 4 point grading system. Grading Procedure-
a) All open defects or major defects counted with 4 points per defect. b) Surface defects over 9 inch length counted with 4 points per defect. c) Surface defects 6 to 9 inches length counted with 3 points per defect. d) Surface defects 3 to 6 inches length counted with 2 points per defect.
e) Surface defects up to 3 inches length counted with one point per defect. Running defects, such as tucks, needle lines, barrie, crack marks, are judgment defects.
Equipment used for measuring quality-
1) Inspection m/c.
2) Electronic balance
3) GSM cutter.
4) Measuring tape.
5) Scissors.
6) Indication sticker.

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2.22. Design Analysis

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2.23. Sample Representation
Single jersey
Rib
Interlock
Single lacoste

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2.24. Layout Plan of Knitting Floor
1 2 3
6
8 8 8
8 8 8
9
1= GM Office; 2= PM office; 3= PO & other staffs; 4= Inspection machine; 5= Weighting M/C;
6= Compressor; 7= Table; 8= Circular knitting m/c; 9= Store; 10= Washroom

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CHAPTER THREE
Batching Section

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3.1. Batching
Batching is the process to get ready the fabrics that should be dyed and processed for a Particular lot of a Particular order.
Primarily Batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above criteria under consideration. Batch section’s in charge receives this primary batch plan from dyeing Manager. Sometime Planning is adjusted according to m/c condition.
3.2. Batch Process Follow-Up
Grey Fabric Inspection
Batching Fabric Turning Stitch the fabric Storing for dyeing
3.3. General Instructions for the Final Inspection
a. All pieces will be graded on the base of 40 points per 100 linear yards Mapping will be done on each piece to insure proper grading. Do not count more than 4 points per one yard.
b. All defects must be recorded and marked in final inspection and an accurate account of points made to insure proper grading.
c. All fabric must meet specifications.
d. At the end of each piece of fabric, the inspector will add up total points and decide whether the piece can be shipped as first quality or not, reworked, placed in lower quality, or cut and
upgraded for shipment. Fifteen yards or more can be shipped as first quality.
e. The quality control supervisor must approve the grading of all quality levels and check the lower quality.
f. Major or unsightly defects in the first and last yard of a roll or piece will be cut. All defects of one yard length or more will be cut out of the piece. Defects within the first 2 inches or the last 2 inches of a piece will not be cut out or counted in the grading.

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g. Open defects on the back of fabric such as drops, runs and hanging picks are to be included in the grading of fabric.
h. Pieces can be connected together, once each piece must be the same shade.
i. All defects such as runs that extend more than a yard in length will be cut out.
j. Fabric up to 70 inches will be allowed a bow of not more than 1 inch and a Bias of not more than 2 inches.
k. Defects within one inch of the fabric edge will not be counted except on tubular fabrics. All defects will be counted in tubular goods.
3.4. Object of Batching
 To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source.
 Turn the grey fabric if require.
 To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria- a) Order sheet (Received from buyer)
b) Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark)
c) M/C capacity d) M/C available
e) Type of fabrics(100% cotton, PE, PC, CVC)
f) Emergency
 To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.
3.5. Proper Batching Criteria
 To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c.
 To minimize the washing time or preparation time & m/c stoppage time.
 To keep the no. of batch as less as possible for same shade.
 To use a particular m/c for dyeing same shade.
3.6. Machine in Batch Section
No. of Machine : 01
Machine Name : Air turning m/c
Origin : Bangladesh

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CHAPTER FOUR
Lab Dip Section

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4.1. Lab Dip Development
Lab Dip Development means the sample is to be dyed according to buyer’s requirements (similar shade and so on). Depending on lab dip development sample dyeing and bulk production dyeing planning is done.
4.2. Objective of Lab Lip Development
The main objectives of lab dip are as follows-
 To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing.
 To compare dyed sample with swatch by light Box.
 To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing.
 Finally approved Lab Dip(Grade: A B C)
4.3. Development of Lab Dip in Sadma
Receiving standard swatch Spectrophotometer reading Recipe start up software
Start up recipe given
Manual dispersion (pipetting) Pot dyeing
Unload

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Normal wash Acid wash Hot wash Cold wash
Drying
4.4. Preparation and Storage of Stock Dyes and Chemicals
Preparation of Concentration of stock dye solution -
Normally 0.1%, 0.5%, 1%, 1.5% and 2% stock solution of dyes are prepared in beakers for daily use.
Preparation of Concentration of stock chemical solution -
Similarly 25% salt and 25% soda stock solutions are prepared in beakers for daily use.
4.5. Dyes and Chemicals Measuring Formula for Lab
The amount of dye solution (ml) is calculated as follow - Amount of dye soln (ml) =

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Example –
In recipe, Fabric wt. = 5gm
Shade % = 2%
[ If used 0. 5 % stock soln of dyes ] then , Amount of dye soln (ml) = = 20 ml .
The amount of chemical soln (ml) is measured as follow - Amount of chemical soln (ml) =
Example –
In recipe, Fabric wt. = 5 gm
Salt = 20 g/l
M: L = 1 : 10
[ If taken 25 % stock soln of salt ] then ,
Amount of chemical soln (ml) = = 4 ml
4.6. Color Measurement of Standard sample
Color measurement is mainly done for the purpose of shade matching as perfectly as possible. Shade matching of the produced sample with the standard one is compulsory. Color measurement can be done by two methods –
Manual Method: In manual method, the standard sample’s color is measured by comparing it with previously produced samples of different tri-chromatic color combination. The sample with which the color of the standard matched, that sample’s color recipe is being taken for shade

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matching .This method’s accuracy completely depends on the vision of the person related to it
but person must be needed gather experience about color matching.
Instrumental method: The instrumental method is more reliable if it is operated accurately to do the work of color measurement. “Spectrophotometer” (Data color) interfaced with a PC is used for shade matching .This instrument works with the principle of reflectance measurement of light at different wave length. When the standard sample is being subjected under spectrophotometer, then the instrument suggest a recipe with required tri-chromatic colors within the tolerance limit of color difference. In this way, color measurement of the standard sample is carried out for the purpose of shade matching.
4.7. Procedure of Lab Dip (For 100% cotton Fabric)
1) Fabric weight is measured by electric balance.
2) Calculate the recipe.
3) Keep the fabric in the pot.
4) Then required amount of dyes, water, salt, soda and other chemicals are taken to the pot by pipeting .
5) Start the program for dyeing. The dyeing time and temperature depend on types of dyes being used.
Program – 1: For light shade
Fixed temp. = 600° C Time = 60 min.
Program – 2: For dark shade
Fixed temp. = 800° C Time = 60 min.
6) After finished the dyeing time then cold wash is done for two times.
7) Acid wash for neutralization.
8) Then soaping by required soap solution for 10 min. at 950° C.
9) Cold wash then drying the lab dip and compare with the standard.

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CHAPTER FIVE
Dyeing & Finishing Section

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5.1. Dyeing
Dyeing is the process of imparting colors to a textile material in loose fiber, yarn, cloth or garment form by treatment with a dye.
5.1.1. Raw Materials For Dyeing
The raw materials used in dyeing are-
1. Grey Fabric: Single jersey, Interlock, Lacoste, Rib, Lycra rib, 1 x 1 rib & others.
2. Dyes and Chemicals.
5.1.2. Machine Description of Dyeing & Finishing Section
Sl No
Description
Capacity
No. of
M/C
Brand
Origin
1
High pressure Dyeing
M/C
1050 Kg
1
Delmenler
Turkey
2
Atmospheric soft
flow Dyeing M/C
750 Kg
1
Fongs
China
3
Atmospheric soft
flow Dyeing M/C
500 Kg
2
Fongs
China
4
Atmospheric soft
flow Dyeing M/C
250 Kg
1
Fongs
China
5
M/C
600 Kg
1
Woo yang
Korea
6
M/C
350 Kg
1
Woo yang
Korea
7
High pressure sample
Dyeing M/C
30 Kg
1
Son-tech
China
8
Sample Dyeing M/C
100 Kg
1
Classic
Bangladesh
9
Sample Dyeing M/C
20 Kg
1
Classic
Bangladesh
10
Sample Dyeing M/C
30 Kg
1
Classic
Bangladesh
11
Stenter
10-12
Ton
2
Ehwha
Glotech
Korea
12
Compactor with pin
chain
10 Ton
1
Bianco
Italy
13
Slitting
12 Ton
1
Bianco
Italy
14
Back sewing
6 Ton
1
China
15
Squeezer
8 Ton
2
Dongnam
Korea
16
Tensionless Dryer
M/C
8 Ton
1
Alkan
Turkey

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17
Compactor
8 Ton
1
Fabcon
U S A
18
Calender
8 Ton
1
Dongnam
Korea
19
Lab M/C
2
Son-tech
China
20
Grey inspection M/C
3 Ton
1
Glory
China
21
Industrial washing
M/C
50 Kg
1
Glory
China
22
Tumble Dryer
150
2
Glory
China
23
Hydro Extractor
50
1
Glory
China
24
Gas Generator
480 KW
1
MWM
U S A
25
Compressor
10 Bar
1
Boge
Germany
26
Compressor
11 Bar
1
Kaeser
Germany
27
Compressor
35 Bar
1
Dalgakiran
Turkey
28
Boiler
10 Ton
1
Dealim Royal
Korea
29
Gas Generator
1 MW
1
MWM
Germany
30
Dyeing M/C
1500 Kg
1
Texlink
China
31
M/C
500 Kg
1
Dongnam
China
5.1.3. Stages required completing a whole Dyeing Process
 Pretreatment (Scouring & Bleaching)
 Neutral
 Enzyme (If required)
 Dye bath/Leveling bath (with Salt, Soda)
 After treatment
5.1.4. Amount of different Ingredients used in different stages
PRETREATMENT
Ingredient
Quantity
Wetting agent
1.2 g/l
Anti-creasing agent
1.0 g/l
Sequestering agent
1.0 g/l
Caustic
2.5 g/l
Stabilizer
0.5 g/l
Hydrogen per oxide
(H2O2)
3.0 g/l
NEUTRALIZATION
Acetic acid
1 g/l
DYEING
Leveling agent
2 g/l

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Dyes
Salt
10 g/l
Soda ash
2 g/l
AFTER TREAMENT
Acetic acid
1 g/l
Soaping agent
1 g/l
SOFTENING
Acetic acid
0.5 g/l
Softener
1 g/l
5.1.5. Dyes Used in Sadma
Brand Name
Origin
Remazol
India
Remazole Yellow -RR
Remazole Blue-RR
Remazole Brill Blue-R Special
Remazole turquoise Blue G
Remazole Orange-RR
Synozole
Korea
Synozole Yellow K3RS
Synozole Red K3BS
Synozole Nave Blue KBF
Synozole Blue KBR
Dychufix
China
Dychufix Yellow 3RXF
Dychufix Yellow 4 GL
Dychufix Black BHC
Dychufix Orange 2RXF
Dychufix Black FWN

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Disperse
China
Desperse Yellow-4G
Desperse Blue 562 RL
Desperse Blue 60 BGF
Desperse navy Blue ECOG
Desperse Black ECOG
Dis-Orange –HF
Dis-Red -HF
Dis-Black-HF
Dis Navy Blue HF
Dis-Blue-HF
Dis-Yellow-HF
Corazole
India
Cor-Red RD
Cor-Blue-RD
Cor-Orange-RD
Cor-Traquise Blue –G
Cor-Bri-Blue-R-Sp
Cor-Bri –Blue-BB
5.1.6. Process Description for Cotton fabric Dyeing
1. Required amount of water was taken into the machine
2. The fabric was loaded and run for 5-10 minutes at normal temperature
3. BOS, FE,CF,H-53 (Scouring Chemicals) were added at a time for 5 minutes
4. Caustic was added at normal temperature for 5 minutes
5. Temperature increased at 60° C
6. Hydrogen per Oxide(H2O2)was added for 5 minutes
7. Temperature increased at 95°C and continue for 1 hour
8. Sample check
9. Cold wash at 40°C for 5-10 minutes
10.Hot wash at 95°C for 5-10 minutes
11.Required amount of water was loaded
12.Acetic acid was added
13.Temperature increased at 80°C for 15-20 minutes

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14.Cold wash at 40°C and drain
15.Water filled and Acetic acid was added
16.PH check at 4.5
17.Leveling agent at 60°C for 5-10 minutes
18.Salt at 60°C for 5-10 minutes
19.Run time 10 minutes
20.Dyes at 60°C for 30 minutes
21.Run time 10 minutes
22.Check the sample
23.Soda ash at 60 for 40 minutes
24.Run time 10 minute
25.Check the sample
26.Color steam
27.B D (Bathe Drain)
28.Wash
29.Hot wash
30.Acetic Acid treatment
31.Run for 20 min
32.Then unload the garments
5.1.7. Common Dyeing Faults
1. Uneven dyeing:
Causes:
- Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring & bleaching).
- Improper color dosing
- Using dyes of high fixation property
- Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers
- Lack of control on dyeing m/c
Remedies:
- By ensuring even pretreatment
- By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers
- Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals
- Proper controlling of dyeing m/c
2. Batch to Batch Shade variation:
Causes:
- Fluctuation of Temperature
- Improper dosing time of dyes & chemicals
- Batch to batch weight variation of dyes and chemicals
- Dyes lot variation
- Improper reel speed, pump speed, liquor ratio
- Improper pretreatment
Remedies:

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- Use standard dyes and chemicals
- Maintain the same liquor ratio
- Follow the standard pretreatment procedure
- Maintain the same dyeing cycle
- Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of the Shade.
- Make sure that the operators add the right bulk chemicals at the same time and temperature in the process.
- The pH, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water should check daily
3. Crease mark:
Causes:
- Poor opening of the fabric rope
- Shock cooling of synthetic material
- If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal
- Due to high speed m/c running
Remedies:
- maintaining proper reel speed & pump speed
- Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
- Reducing the m/c load
- Higher liquor ratio
5. Dye spot:
Causes:
- Improper Dissolving of dye particle in bath
- Improper Dissolving of caustic soda particle in bath
Remedies:
- By proper dissolving of dyes & chemicals
- By passing the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh strainer, so that the large un-dissolved particles are removed
6. Softener Mark:
Causes:
- Improper mixing of the Softener
- Improper running time of the fabric during application of softener
- Entanglement of the fabric during application of softener
Remedies:
- Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed
- Proper Mixing of the softener before addition
- Prevent the entanglement of the fabric during application of softener
5.2. Finishing
The making of a marketable and consumer usable textile is not completed after fabric production
dyeing or printing operation. Fabrics usually still need to undergo an additional processing known as finishing, which is the final processing before the fabric is cut into apparel or made

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into any articles of textiles. Finishing is what improves attractiveness and makes fabrics suitable for their intended end use.
5.2.1. Objective of Finishing
- Improving the appearance like Luster, whiteness etc.
- Improving the feel, this depends on the handle of the material and its softness, suppleness, fullness, etc.
- Wearing qualities, no soiling, anti-crease, anti-shrink, comfort etc.
- Special properties required for particular uses water proofing, flame proofing etc.
- Covering the faults on the original cloth.
- Increasing the weight of the cloth.
5.2.2. Types of Finishing
Finishing is done in two ways-
1. Open Finish
2. Tube Finish
a. The machines that are used for open line are given bellow –
 Slitting and Dewatering machine
 Stenter machine
 Compactor machine
b. The machines that are used for tube line are given bellow –
 Dewatering machine
 Dryer
 Compactor machine
5.2.3. Flow-chart of Finishing
Finishing
Open Finish Tube Finish
Slitting and Dewatering Squeezing Stentering Drying Inspection Compacting
Delivery Inspection
Delivery

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5.3. Images of the Machines in Dyeing & Finishing Unit
Dyeing Machine

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Slitting Machine
Tensionless Dryer

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Stenter Machine
Squeezer Machine Compactor Machine

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CHAPTER SIX
Garments Section

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6.1. Garment Machinery & Equipment
SL.
No.
Machine Name
Brand
Total
Siruba
Precious
Juki
Brother
Pegasus
Yamata
Fuye
1
Plain Machine
110
10
21
22
163
2
Overlock Machine
137
19
18
1
175
3
Flat lock Machine
(Flat bed)
17
3
12
1
33
4
Flat lock Machine
(Cylinder)
45
2
2
4
53
5
F/L double chain
stitch
1
1
6
Bar tacking
2
2
7
Flat lock zigzag
1
1
8
F/L PMD (Kansan)
2
9
Feed of the arm
2
2
10
Button Hole machine
1
2
3
11
Button stitch
machine
1
2
3
12
PRN tulking
machine
2
13
Plain machine zigzag
1
14
Fusing press
machine
1
15
Snub Button
4
16
Rib cutter machine
(normal/Auto)
6
17
Heat transparent
machine
2
18
Re Cone machine
1
19
P/P Belt
1
20
Cloth cutting
machine
6
21
Needle ditector
machine
1
22
Steam iron
25
23
Steam Boiler
1
24
Thread sucking
machine
1
Total
490

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6.2. Flow-chart of Garment Manufacturing
Garment design and sketch with measurement sheet
Working Pattern Sample making Approved sample Pattern grading Marker making Fabric Spreading Fabric cutting
Garment assembling (sewing) Inspection
Finishing Final inspection Shipment

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6.3. Description of Process Sequences
6.3.1. Garments design, Sketch and Measurement sheet
Garments design, sketch and measurement sheet is given by the buyer to the sellers. Buyers make a design of required garments with sketch having all the required accessories and trimmings. They also provide a measurement sheet of different sizes. All these including name as merchandising details sheet. After getting these requirements pattern master makes a pattern for sample making of different sizes. In these there are also manufacturing details with the help of all required accessories and trimmings.
6.3.2. Pattern
The individual part of a garment which is shaped by a hard paper like drawing sheet is called pattern. It is classified into 2 types as follows-
I. Working pattern: The pattern which is used to make sample garment is called working or master pattern.
II. Production pattern: The pattern which is used for bulk production is called production
pattern.
Pattern grading: After developing pattern, pattern master decreases or increases master pattern stepwise, it is called pattern grading. Like this-
S ↔M↔L↔XL
Before making a sample pattern making according to sketch and measurement or directly from sample is very important. The construction of pattern is done by two methods like-
I. Manual construction of pattern
II. Computer aided construction of pattern
In Sadma Fashion Wear, they use manual methods of construction of pattern.
During manual or computer aided construction of pattern the pattern draft is developed by calculation based on the following instructions-
 Actual body size
 Size charts or sample
 Grading increment
 Easy allowances
On pattern the following instructions must be marked-
 Name of the pattern

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 Style
 Size
 Grain direction
 CFL & CBL
 Seam allowances
 Balance mark
The following tools and equipment are used for pattern construction-
 Working surface
 Paper
 Pencils
 Eraser
 Marker pen
 French curves
 Compass
 Set square
 Scissors
 Measuring tape
 Rubber, scale, scotch tape etc.
6.3.3. Sample Garment
The patterns are used to cut the fabric. Then the garment components in fabric form are used to sew the garment. Sample garment manufacturing is to be done by very efficient and technically sound person.
- To make sample garment for buyer approval.
- To make pattern sets for bulk production when needed.
6.3.4. Production pattern
The patterns of the approved sample garment are used for making production pattern. During production pattern making, sometimes patterns design may be modified if buyer or authority suggests any minor modification.
6.3.5. Grading
Normally for large scale of production of any style needs different sizes to produce from asset of particular size of patterns, the patterns of different sizes are produced by using grade rule which is called grading.

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6.3.6. Marker Making
Marker is defined as a large thin paper which contents all required patterns pieces of different sizes for a particular style of apparels.
Marker is made by following steps-
 Pattern are placed onto a large thin sheet
 Then marked by pen around the pattern
 First place big part & small part are placed at the end position
 Finally found a marker
Marker is made of fulfill the following objects:
- To get similarities among the apparel
- To save times
- To minimized fabric wastage
- To reduce cost
Marker is made by two methods as follows-
1. Manual method
2. Computerized method
Depending on making of marker it has the following types as follows-
 One way marker
 Two way marker
 Interactive marker
 Auto marker
 Paper marker
 Fabric marker
 Whole garment marker
 Single size marker
 Multi size marker
During marker making the following points should be checked-
- Pattern direction
- Pattern alignment
- Parts missing
- Mismatched checks or stripes
- Overlapping

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- Marker too width than fabric
- Poor line marking
- Double line marking
- Pattern to pattern distance
- Notches and drills marks are omitted
6.3.7. Fabric spreading
Fabric spreading means the smooth laying out of fabric with respect to marker length and width which is specified. When spreading is done the following basic requirements maintained-
- Alignment of plies
- Correct or uniform ply tension
- Smooth surface of fabric
- Static electricity is not formed during spreading
- Fusion free for synthetic fabric
- Matching of stripe or check
- Distortion free of plies
There are two methods used for spreading-
1. Manual method
2. Mechanical method
In Sadma they use manual method of spreading. Problems may occur during spreading:
- Misalignment of plies
- Mismatching checks or stripes
- Wrong direction of plies
- Incorrect tension of plies
- Fabric relaxation
- Narrow width fabric
- Shaded fabrics
6.3.8. Fabric Cutting
On the spread fabric the marker is placed carefully and accurately and pined with the fabric to avoid unwanted movement or displacement of the marker paper. Normally straight knife cutting machine is used to cut the garment component as per exact dimension of each patterns , care must be taken to avoid cutting defects.
During cutting of fabric the following flow chart is followed-

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Fabric spreading Place marker Cutting
Sorting
Numbering & 100%checking
Bundling according to size
Input to sewing sector
6.3.9. Sewing /Assembling
Sewing is defined as an operation by an operator through a m/c named sewing m/c which used sewing thread to sew the fabric by forming stitch in the way of interloping, interlacing of sewing thread.
To sew a fabric by sewing m/c needle along with sewing thread is used. So to sew a fabric needle, sewing thread are important elements.
6.4. Sewing Problems
There are various types of sewing problems found in sewing floor. Among these problems the following are the main –
1. Problem of formation: It has four types as follows -
1. Supplied stitch
Causes:
• Loop size of needle is small
• Bent needle
• Tension variation of looper and needle thread
2. Staggered stitch (Stitch line is not parallel with seam line) Causes:
• Bent needle

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• Wrong needle point
•Improper needle adjust
3. Unbalanced stitch (If bobbin thread does not work, it produces hole &
forms this stitch) Causes:
• Incorrect tension of sewing thread
• Incorrect passage of thread through guide
• Insufficient lubrication
4. Frequent thread breakage
Causes:
 Improper unwinding
 Higher thread tension
 Excess heating
 Lower quality thread
2. Seam pucker: It is caused for five purposes as follows-
i. Unequal stitch on fabric due to limitation of feed m/c
ii. Fabric dimensional stability due to unequal shrinkage of one ply then other for washing iii. Extension of sewing thread due to tension
iv. Sewing thread shrinkage after washing or ironing
v. Compact fabric with high EPI, PPI is caused seam puckering during sewing.
3.Fabric damage at the seam line: It is visible after washing and wear which is mainly caused for needle bending or improper selection of needle size. This is two types of fabric damage with needle as follows-
 Mechanical damage (m/c speed high)
 Needle heating damage (300-350°C)
6.5. Finishing
Finishing Flow-chart-

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Garments wash Loop cutting Thread trimming Alter checking Stitch others Button attach Ironing (In side)
Inspection (inside & outside) Batch label attach
Final ironing Joker tag attach Needle detector check Size tag attach
Hanger attach
Poly packing Cartooning Shipment
6.6. Final Inspection
For complete garment that is not in bundle form, it is recommended that statistical inspection done based on AQL
The defects may be identified in finished garments:
1. Broken ends
2. Broken picks
3. Reed marks

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4. Broken pattern
5. Thick and thin place
6. Rough surface cloth
7. Iron stain
8. Holes in the cloth
9. Shading
10 Shuttle marks
6.7. Garments Merchandising
“Merchandising” is known to the persons specially involved in garments trade. The term merchandising has been derived from merchandise. Merchandise means goods that are bought and sold. The term “Merchandising” may be defined as: Person who merchandises the goods, specifically for export purpose. Garments merchandising means buying raw materials and accessories, producing garments, maintaining required quality level and exporting the garments within schedule time. From the above definitions, we can say that a person involved in garments merchandising needs a wide range of knowledge and skill to perform his job successfully. The job itself is Technical and general as well.
6.7.1. Quality of a merchandiser
The qualities must be needed of a merchandiser are as following:
 Good English speaking & writing skill.
 Must have computer knowledge like- MS Word, MS Excel, Internet & E-mail etc.
 Proper knowledge on mathematics.
 Sound working capacity
 Always be prepared for any kind of working pressure.
 Training is needed for knowing primary knowledge about merchandising.
 Proper knowledge about garments production.
 Proper knowledge about Commerce & Banking.
 Proper knowledge about Shipping line & Airline.

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6.7.2. Duties & Responsibilities of a Merchandiser
Dealing with the buyer & convincing the buyer is the main duty of a marketing officer or merchandiser. A merchandiser also has some other duties. The main duties & responsibilities of a merchandiser are given bellow-
 To prepare cost sheet by dealing with the buyer.
 To take different steps by discussing with the high officials & merchandisers.
 To maintain a regular & good relationship between commercial officers &
merchandisers.
 To maintain communication with the buyers and buying houses.
 Communicate with better knowledge of the products.
6.7.3. Scope of a Merchandiser
 Merchandisers are the key player for generating business for any manufacturing plants/company.
 Merchandisers are responsible for making good profit for the company. Whatever the nature of business, they are always keen to increase the profit margin for the company.
 To maintain a good relationship between all the departments and to get the best output from each department is also important and merchandisers play a vital role in getting good output from each department.
 Communication skill is important to maintain an effective communication between all concerned parties. Corresponding with buyer/agent for all related work i.e. sample approval, testing, packaging, shipping.
 To act as a link between different departments of company for order processing, supplying, payment collection and other export related documents.
6.7.4. Costing/Pricing
Costing is the principal task of any merchandisers. Methods of Pricing:
1.Calculate the fixed and variable costs associated with the product.
2. Also the cost elements below need to consider during costing.
 Pricing for Fibers & Yarns
 Pricing for fabric manufacturing
 Pricing for garment manufacturing
 Cost of accessories
 Commercial cost

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 Break-even point
 Consumption of fabric and accessories with wastage percentage.
 Total cost analysis (how much does it cost to provide merchandise to end customer)
6.8. Images of Garments Section
Sewing floor
Fabric Cutting

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Folding Room
Ironing

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Packing Room
Inspection room

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CHAPTER SEVEN
Quality Control

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7.1. Quality Control
Quality control is concerned with the evaluation of test data and its application to control of the textile process, raw materials, intermediate products and final products. It is concerned not only with quality level and cost of maintaining this quality level but also concerned with the presentation of tangible values to measure quality and changes in quality. In order to control quality the consumers expectations must get priority.
7.2. Objective of quality control
 Research/analysis
 Selection of raw materials
 Process control and development
 Product testing
 Specification testing
 Quality assurance
7.3. List of equipment for quality control
 Yarn grade tester
 Electronics balance
 Spray rating tester
 Iron
 Button tester
 Lab dip dyeing m/c
 Orbiter pilling tester
 PH meter
7.4. Quality control Flow chart
Yarn receiving Sample knitting Batching
Dyeing (check shade & faults of dyeing)

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Dewatering & untwisting
Dyeing(check diameter, pretreatment, shrinkage & GSM) Compacting
Final inspection
If sample ok go for bulk production
7.5. Quality management System
1. On-line Quality Control
2. Off-line Quality Control
7.5.1. On-line Quality Control
Online quality control comprises with the raw material control, process control & finish fabric inspection.
a. Raw material control:
As the quality of product depends upon the raw material quality, quality assurance department must ensure that the best quality raw materials are used in production.
- The chemical should be with a known concentration and high degree of purity.
- The dyes and chemical should be compatible with each other.
- The fabric must be out of faults with proper absorbency, whiteness as per requirement of subsequent process.
b. Process control:
- The method chosen for process must be provided with necessary parameters.
- Temperature, pH, water level should be checked at each stage of process.
- During dyeing sample are taken and shade match with lab dip and when match, allow for bathe drop.
- If not properly match additional or topping is done until required shade come.
- After neutralization sample is collected and match with lab dip.
- Sample is collected after fixation.
- Last of all after softening sample is collected and match with lab dip.
- Each batch should be match with other batch.
- During finishing temperature, speed, overfeed should be controlled as per requirement.
- GSM, width, shrinkage should be maintain as per buyer requirement.

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c. Finish fabric inspection:
To ensure that only an acceptable quality fabric is used for producing garments and proper quality of shipment is received from the supplier.
- Store in charge will check the received fabric with reported length, color and type of fabric with the stated shipment document quality and actual order quantity.
- The finding will be recorded in inventory report and discrepancy regarding fabric type,
color and length will be notified to the factory manager.
- For in-house products quality control officer will guide all over inspection.
7.5.2. Off-line Quality Control
Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. have all the facility for off-line quality control of the materials used and processed materials. There are two types materials tested in laboratory for quality control. These are-
a. Fabric
b. Raw materials. a. Fabric testing:
All the off-line tests for finished fabrics can be grouped as follows:
1. Physical test
2. Chemical test
1. Physical test:
- Fabric inspection by 4-point system.
- GSM test
- Width of the fabric measure.
- Rubbing test
- Pilling test
- Shrinkage test
2. Chemical test
- Color fastness to water
- Color fastness to wash

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- Color fastness to rubbing
- Color fastness to perspiration
- Oxidative test
b. Raw material testing:
- Water : pH, hardness test
- Glauber salt : purity test
- Acetic Acid : Strength
- Soda ash : Strength
- Caustic soda : Strength
- Hydrogen per oxide: Strength

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CHAPTER EIGHT
Utility Section

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8.1. Utility Services
- Electricity
- Gas
- Water
- Steam
- Compressed air
8.2. Capacity & Other Technical Details
1. Electricity
Generally the factory doesn’t depend on electricity. They hardly use the government electricity. The electricity is supplied form REB. The electricity supplied in the factory about 4000 KWH monthly. But three standby power gas generators are also kept to meet the need of electricity if necessary.
Generator Specification-
Sl. No.
Brand Name
Origin
Power
1
MWM
Germany
480 KW
2
MWM
Germany
1 MW
3
MWM
Germany
1 MW
2. Gas
Gas is mainly used for producing electricity and steam production. The gas is supplied by TITAS GAS DISTRIBUTION CO. Gas consumption is 3, 00,000 – 3, 100,000 m3 monthly.
3. Water
Continuous supply of water for different section of Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. is ensured by pump.
4. Steam
Pure steam with required temperature must be produced to meet the continuous demand of steam in different sections. There are two gas boilers used for steam generation to meet the requirement of different sections.
Boiler Specification
Sl. No.
Brand Name
Origin
Capacity
1
Dealim Royal
Korea
10 Ton
2
Dealim Royal
Korea
5 Ton

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5. Compressed Air
The requirement of compressed air is fulfilled by air compressor m/c. In this m/c, natural gas is drawn by pipe through the filter above the compressor & the air is compressed. In such a case the air becomes slightly hot. Hence cold water is drawn to reduce the temperature of compressed air. While doing so, the cold water becomes slightly hot & it is transferred through outlet pipe to the overhead reservoir. There the vapors are condensed and outlets drop by drop. Then the water is let to fall slowly through the reservoir to the compressed air to obtain moist compressed air. The moist compressed air is transferred to the dryer & a slight warm compressed air is delivered to required sections of Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd.
Compressor Specification-
Sl. No.
Brand Name
Origin
Max Pressure
1
Boge
Germany
10 Bar
2
Kaeser
Germany
10 Bar
3
Kaeser
Germany
25 Bar
4
Dalgakiran
Turkey
35 Bar
8.3. Source of Utility Electricity: REB & Gas Generator Steam: Boiler
Water: Pump
Compressed air: Compressor
Gas: TITAS GAS DISTRIBUTION CO.

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CHAPTER NINE
Maintenance Section

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9.1. Maintenance
Maintenance of machinery is very essential mechanical effort for achieving smooth running of different machines. Maintenance is a process by which equipment is looked after in such a way that trouble free services and increased machine life can be ensured and specific product quality required by the customers is achieved. On time maintenance increase m/c lifetime & ensures trouble free services.
9.2. Types of Maintenance
Two types of maintenance are done in Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd.-
1. Break down Maintenance: a) Mechanical maintenance b) Electrical maintenance
2. Routine Maintenance: a) Mechanical maintenance
b) Electrical maintenance
1. Break down maintenance: Break down maintenance is done instantly when problem arises in machine. In this case, repairs are made after the equipment is out of order and it cannot perform its normal functions.
2. Routine maintenance: After a particular period of operation, the machines are cleaned & reordered, that is routine or schedule maintenance. The maintenance department does it once in a month. Schedule maintenance varies, time in time & also depends on situation according to types of machines, because maintenance is directly related to production. Most of the time, all the screws, nuts, bolts & levers are checked, lubrication is also done. Workers inform about the problem areas of the machines. Depending on their information maintenance is done. Maintenance engineer analyze the records and take steps according to requirement.
Maintenance is a necessary task in any industry. But the degree and interval of maintenance is dependent upon the age of the machineries. The Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. has relatively new machineries, which are very modern. Due to this reason a relatively less amount of maintenance is needed to be carried out. Nevertheless, routine maintenance of the machineries is carried out –
1. Daily Work
2. Weekly Work
3. Monthly Work

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9.3. Maintenance Procedure (Mechanical)
9.3.1. Dyeing Machine
Sl. No
Item needed to be checked & Serviced
01
Compressed air system Checking
02
Steam System checking
03
All motor/pump sound and temperature
checking
04
Water system checking
05
Oil level(Pump/gear box) checking
06
All belts tight/Adjusting
07
Gear oil checking/
08
All bearings cleaning
09
Checking all control panels
10
Lubrication of all motors bearings
9.3.2. Gas Boiler
Sl. No
1
Checking of water level glass
2
Checking of F.W system and handiness
3
Checking of auto operation of pumps
4
Checking and cleaning of photo-cells
5
Checking of control
6
7
All cable terminal adjusting
8
Lubrication of all motor bearings
9.3.3. Gas Generator
Sl.No
1
Lub. oil level checking
2
Cooling water system checking
3
Better water level checking
4
All belt tight/Adjusting

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5
Panel board cleaning
6
All bearing greasing
7
All cable terminal adjusting
8
Cleaning and maintenance of PHE and CT
9.3.4. Compactor, Dryer
SL. No
1
Comp: air system Checking
2
All motor/pump sound and temperature
checking
3
Steam and cond. System checking
4
Filter cleaning and thermo oil checking
5
All belt tight/Adjusting
6
All bearings cleaning
7
8
Lubrication of all motors bearing
9.3.5. Knitting Machine
Sl. No
Item Needed to be checked & Serviced
1
Dial/Cylinder rotation checking
2
Roller rotation checking
3
Cam setting and oiling
4
Needle breakage checking
5
Sensor checking
6
Motor checking
7
Belt adjusting
9.3.6. Maintenance Tools & Equipment
Sl. No.
Maintenance tools/equipment
Functions
1.
Adjustable wrench
Used for setting nut & bolts
2.
Pipe Spanner
For pipe fitting
3.
Spanner
Fixed Spanner for nut & bolts
4.
Socket spanner
Handle system for nut & bolt
fitting
5.
Hammer
To apply load where required

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6.
Screw driver
To release any screw
7.
Punch
Used to fit any worn out shaft
8.
Lock opener
To open the clip of bearing
9.
Hack saw
To cut any metallic thing
10.
Outside calipers
To measure outside dia
11.
Inside calipers
To measure inside dia
12.
Slide calipers
To measure very small dia
13.
Vernier scale
To measure very small dia
14.
Chain ton
To lift heavy load
15.
Welding machine
To join metallic parts
16.
Grinding machine
To make the smooth fabrics
17.
Tester
To test electric circuit
18.
Pliers
To grip anything & cut
anything
19.
Voltmeter
To measure voltage
20.
Steel tape
To measure length, width &
height

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CHAPTER TEN
Effluent Treatment Plant

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10.1. Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP)
Effluent is the stream of excess chemical liquor which is extracted from an industry after using in original operation. For example, The excess dye liquor which is extracted from textile industry after dyeing from different processes are treated with various chemicals to remove or neutralize the toxic materials before discharging to environment (e.g. ground water) . This is called effluent treatment.
10.2. Objective of ETP
The main objective of ETP are mentioned below-
 To remove coloring matter.
 To control pH
 To maintain proper value of BOD (Biological Oxygen Demand),COD(Chemical Oxygen
Demand)
 To reduce TDS(Total Dissolved Solid) amount.
10.3. Capacity of ETP at Sadma
Treatment capacity = 125 m³/hour
Daily treatment capacity = 3000 m³/day
10.4. Flow-chart of ETP
Waste water
↓
Collection tank / equalization tank
↓
Pumping water
↓
Clarifier settles off
↓
Bio-tower tank (pH check)
↓
Pumping
↓
Aeration tank
↓
Lamallah (Secondary Clarifier)
↓
Dispose to environment

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10.5. Function of ETP
1. Screening unit: Firstly liquid waste is passed through the screening unit to separate the coarser particle.
2. Equalization unit: In this unit hot liquid waste is kept to cool.
3. Primary clarifier: In this unit liquid waste is treated with Sodium Hypo Chloride, Poly Aluminum Chloride and polyelectrolyte. So that sludge is separated through the coagulation and flocculation. Sludge is passed to Sludge processing unit. pH can be controlled by adding concentrated hydrochloric acid in between coagulation processes.
4. Aeration unit: After sludge separation in primary clarifier the liquid waste is passed to aeration unit for biological treatments. In aeration unit organic waste is introduced into a reactor where the bacteria culture carries out the conversion of organic matter to Carbon Di Oxide and Water.
It should be noted that urea and Diamonium phosphate (DAP) are generally used as nutrients in aeration tank.
5. Sludge processing unit: After biological treatment the sludge is passed to sludge processing unit. Special care should be given for sludge management. The sludge can be filled into the three layer polythene bags and can be used for low land filling purpose. Experts and scientists recently introduced a concept of brick making by sludge. Though it requires further studies regarding this purpose.
6. Secondary Clarifier: After biological treatment the liquid waste is passed to the secondary clarifier. In secondary clarifier the upper layer of the liquid waste remains stationary. The liquid waste is passed from the lower level of the secondary clarifier so that remaining dissolved solids are separated as sludge.
7. Disinfection unit: The treated liquid waste passed to this unit and treated with sodium hypochlorite to kill remaining microorganism in liquid waste.
10.6. Chemicals Used in ETP
1. Lime
2. Polyester
3. Ferrous Sulphate
4. Urea

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10.7. Waste water Analysis
A typical textile unit is expected to generate various types of waste-water differing in magnitude and quality at the stages shown below-
Sl. No.
Wet processing stages
Waste-water type
01
Desizing
High TSS, High BOD, pH
02
Scouring
High TSS, High BOD, High
TDS, High alkalinity, High temperature
03
Bleaching and mercerization
High TSS, High BOD,
Alkaline waste-water.
04
Dyeing, printing, Finishing
Waste dye, High TSS, High
BOD
10.8. Maintenance of ETP
The workers of the ETP check various valves, pipe line daily. The bearings are lubricated on daily basis and weakly basis. If any kinds of parts are damaged, the E.T.P department notices to the maintenance department for new one. In a short time the maintenance department manages all problems because of running smoothly of the ETP.

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Conclusion
Technical education & its adoption in practical field we involved. Inextricably without the implementation of the knowledge gathered in technical education its success bound to suffer. Therefore these six weeks long industrial training helped us to accomplish the gap between the theoretical & practical knowledge by providing an element idea about industrial environment, processing machines, tools, equipment, production system & maintenance, administration & management system. We tried our best to gather all necessary information, but it is true that within this short period it is quite impossible to achieve 100% success. But as a whole this industrial training was a satisfactory one. Again we would like to thank the authority of Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. as well as our honorable teachers for their altruistic help & advice. So we think this industrial training has prepared us for the expected destiny of our life.

Industrial attachment of Sadma fashion wear ltd

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