The document summarizes a study that monitored the flow control and water quality performance of a residential low impact development (LID) project in Washington state. Key findings from the monitoring include: 1) The project met forested duration standards for flow control in areas with bioretention, 2) Total and dissolved metals levels at the point of compliance were very low, 3) Modeling showed the project would continue to meet standards if the lined bioretention area was included. The study demonstrated the LID applications were effective at flow control and water quality treatment.
This document summarizes a case study that analyzed the effects of sea-level rise on saltwater intrusion near a coastal well field in southeastern Florida using a variable-density groundwater flow and transport model. The model was calibrated over 105 years and showed that well withdrawals were the dominant cause of initial saltwater intrusion, which sea-level rise exacerbated. Sensitivity simulations using the calibrated model and projected sea-level rise scenarios found drinking water standards would be exceeded 10 to 21 years earlier than without sea-level rise. The study contributes to understanding how sea-level rise impacts saltwater intrusion in a populated low-lying coastal aquifer system like southeast Florida that is susceptible to effects.
1) The document analyzes Quaternary faults and sedimentary basin fill in the inner continental borderland of southern California.
2) It correlates sedimentary layers regionally to dated rocks in a core, resolving controversies about fault continuity and activity.
3) Results show the San Mateo-Carlsbad fault marks a transition from transpression to transtension, with average 0.44mm/year slip to the south-southwest at 162-177 degrees. Lower estimated slip rates suggest lower seismic hazard than previous studies.
This is a pdf. due to file size we are not able to upload the PowerPoint presentation you can email info@thecccw.org.uk for a copy which includes video clips
The Record of Sea Level Change From Satellite Measurements: What Have We Lea...dallasmasters
2005 American Geophysical Union Bowie Lecture: The Record of Sea Level Change From Satellite Measurements: What Have We Learned? presented by Professor R. Steven Nerem of the University of Colorado at Boulder.
Climate changes impact on coastal regionsMakeOil Green
Coasts will face increasing risks from climate change through this century. Impacts include more frequent flooding, erosion, ecosystem loss, and damage from storms. These risks disproportionately threaten dense, low-lying coastal populations. While adaptation is challenging, a combination of protection, accommodation, and retreat strategies can reduce risks. However, sea level rise will continue for centuries, potentially questioning the viability of some coastal settlements without mitigation to limit long-term rise.
The document summarizes a study that monitored the flow control and water quality performance of a residential low impact development (LID) project in Washington state. Key findings from the monitoring include: 1) The project met forested duration standards for flow control in areas with bioretention, 2) Total and dissolved metals levels at the point of compliance were very low, 3) Modeling showed the project would continue to meet standards if the lined bioretention area was included. The study demonstrated the LID applications were effective at flow control and water quality treatment.
This document summarizes a case study that analyzed the effects of sea-level rise on saltwater intrusion near a coastal well field in southeastern Florida using a variable-density groundwater flow and transport model. The model was calibrated over 105 years and showed that well withdrawals were the dominant cause of initial saltwater intrusion, which sea-level rise exacerbated. Sensitivity simulations using the calibrated model and projected sea-level rise scenarios found drinking water standards would be exceeded 10 to 21 years earlier than without sea-level rise. The study contributes to understanding how sea-level rise impacts saltwater intrusion in a populated low-lying coastal aquifer system like southeast Florida that is susceptible to effects.
1) The document analyzes Quaternary faults and sedimentary basin fill in the inner continental borderland of southern California.
2) It correlates sedimentary layers regionally to dated rocks in a core, resolving controversies about fault continuity and activity.
3) Results show the San Mateo-Carlsbad fault marks a transition from transpression to transtension, with average 0.44mm/year slip to the south-southwest at 162-177 degrees. Lower estimated slip rates suggest lower seismic hazard than previous studies.
This is a pdf. due to file size we are not able to upload the PowerPoint presentation you can email info@thecccw.org.uk for a copy which includes video clips
The Record of Sea Level Change From Satellite Measurements: What Have We Lea...dallasmasters
2005 American Geophysical Union Bowie Lecture: The Record of Sea Level Change From Satellite Measurements: What Have We Learned? presented by Professor R. Steven Nerem of the University of Colorado at Boulder.
Climate changes impact on coastal regionsMakeOil Green
Coasts will face increasing risks from climate change through this century. Impacts include more frequent flooding, erosion, ecosystem loss, and damage from storms. These risks disproportionately threaten dense, low-lying coastal populations. While adaptation is challenging, a combination of protection, accommodation, and retreat strategies can reduce risks. However, sea level rise will continue for centuries, potentially questioning the viability of some coastal settlements without mitigation to limit long-term rise.
1. Sea level rise is driven by thermal expansion of oceans, melting of land ice such as glaciers and ice sheets, and changes to land water storage.
2. Past rates of sea level rise have varied over time, with the 20th century rise likely the fastest in the past 2700 years.
3. Future projections estimate a rise between 0.5 to over 1 meter by 2100 depending on emissions scenario, with a long term commitment of 1-3 meters of rise for sustained warming over millennia.
Diana Allen, SFU - Water Science Research: Challenges and Success Stories in ...BC Water Science Symposium
The document discusses several case studies of water science research projects in BC that aimed to further the understanding of groundwater systems and highlight both the successes and challenges of knowledge translation. It provides details on projects focused on the Grand Forks, Gulf Islands, and Okanagan Basin regions that developed conceptual models, conducted vulnerability analyses, and assessed potential climate change impacts. However, the document notes that while some academic research has informed policy, often the findings are not effectively communicated to decision makers.
Monitoring the Effectiveness of Erosion Control Efforts on Kahoolawe, Hawaiicorrin
This document summarizes a USGS study monitoring erosion on the island of Kaho'olawe, Hawaii. The study aims to assess the effectiveness of restoration efforts in reducing erosion by periodically measuring soil erosion at locations undergoing restoration and comparing them to non-restored areas. Preliminary results after one year found that the erosion rate in restoration areas was statistically lower than in non-restored areas, though more monitoring is still needed as the effects of restoration are expected to increase over time as plants grow. Rills showed extremes of erosion and deposition but similar average changes as interfluves. Erosion was also high in hummocks.
This document discusses using GPS vertical positioning to monitor groundwater storage changes. It begins by explaining that groundwater mining is a global problem, and that extracting groundwater causes the land surface to rise as the total water storage decreases. It then discusses how GPS networks can detect these vertical position changes at the sub-centimeter level on a daily basis, allowing monitoring of seasonal water changes. Finally, it notes that long-term groundwater pumping can lead to both reversible and irreversible subsidence exceeding several meters, and provides examples from California's Central Valley.
This document discusses methods for characterizing groundwater storage, including traditional well measurements and satellite-based GRACE observations. It defines terrestrial water storage as all water on the land surface, and explains that groundwater often dominates variations in storage. Wells measure groundwater levels, with changes indicating replenishment or depletion over time. GRACE satellites detect changes in mass distribution and associated gravity field variations to infer changes in total water storage, including groundwater, at coarse spatial scales. The document provides examples of using both approaches to monitor groundwater in key aquifers.
Sea Level Change and Coastal Hazards in WashingtonSheila Wilson
This document summarizes information about sea level rise in Washington state. It discusses observed trends showing rising sea levels and projected increases ranging from 11 to 38 inches by 2100 depending on greenhouse gas emission scenarios. Regional variations exist due to factors like vertical land movement. Sea level rise increases risks of flooding, erosion, and habitat loss. Near-term challenges include more extreme high tides and storm surges that can impact coastal populations, infrastructure and resources even before permanent inundation occurs. Regional and local efforts are underway to address these risks through climate preparedness planning.
Sea Level Changes as recorded in nature itselfIJERA Editor
This document summarizes research on sea level changes as recorded through field observations and geological records. It makes three key points:
1) Sea level has risen about 120 meters since the last glacial maximum and the rise has occurred through oscillations, not steadily. The maximum rate of sea level rise was about 10 mm/yr as the last ice age ended.
2) Sea level records from locations around the world show oscillations continuing throughout the Holocene and up to the present, contradicting claims of a steady rise recently.
3) Present rates of sea level rise are between 0-2 mm/yr based on tide gauge data and estimates of land movement. Claims of much higher rises are not supported by field evidence
This document discusses ephemeral gully erosion, which refers to temporary gullies that form in agricultural fields during rainfall events and are later erased through tillage. It provides details on ephemeral gullies, including that they frequently occur in natural drainage depressions and remove soil to the depth of the tillage layer. The document also notes that ephemeral gully erosion accounts for a large portion of watershed sediment and that improved models are needed to better understand and address it. It goes on to describe the development and use of an ephemeral gully erosion model to analyze erosion rates within a specific watershed and assist outreach to local landowners.
ARMF 2014 Employment of Proactive Mitigation Strategies in Combination with R...Janna Ellis Kepley
Proactive mitigation strategies like Everglades restoration are needed to counteract sea level rise in Florida in the long run. Reactive barriers will still be necessary in the short term to protect against coastal damage from storms and flooding. A combination of proactive and reactive strategies is recommended, including continuing Everglades restoration projects and updating infrastructure, while also maintaining some reactive barriers. Everglades restoration provides significant economic benefits compared to costs and helps mitigate effects of sea level rise like saltwater intrusion.
This document analyzes the teleconnections between climate indices, sea surface temperature (SST), and vegetation productivity in the Sahel as measured by NDVI from 1982-2007. It finds significant correlations between climate indices like ENSO, NAO, PDO, and IOD and NDVI across the Sahel, though the strength of correlations varies between western, central, and eastern regions. Pixel-level correlations between global SST anomalies and NDVI also show an east-west gradient, with stronger associations in western Sahel. Warmer Mediterranean SSTs correlate with higher NDVI in central Sahel, while cooler eastern Pacific and warmer eastern Atlantic SSTs correlate with higher NDVI in western Sahel.
IAHR 2015 - Predicting long waves and their coastal impacts, Roelvink, Unesco...Deltares
1. The document discusses modeling long waves and their coastal impacts using the XBeach model.
2. XBeach is an open source model that can resolve both short waves and long infragravity waves in the time domain to model processes like dune erosion, overwash, and inundation.
3. The document provides several examples of validation studies comparing XBeach predictions of wave properties and morphological change to field observations for different coastal environments including beaches, barrier islands, coral reefs and tidal inlets.
Jason Winner, Conservation GIS Manager for Scenic Hudson presents on the new Sea Level Rise Mapper.
The mapper is a tool for communities and stakeholders to use to create visualizations of future scenarios of sea level rise. With these maps and information, Scenic Hudson is supporting communities' efforts to develop adaptation plans by helping them to:
- create maps of the extent and impacts of inundation and flood zone expansion
- understand the locations of key built and natural resources
- create graphics that illustrate different sea level rise scenarios in specific communities or stretches of the river
- estimate the risks to infrastructure and natural resources and the likelihoods of different inundation events
- develop alternative adaptation scenarios and weigh their cost and benefits with respect to built infrastructure and natural resources
** The Sea Level Rise Mapper can be found on Scenic Hudson's website at: http://www.scenichudson.org/slr/mapper
For more information, contact Jason Winner at Scenic Hudson at (845) 473-4440 ext 223, or jwinner@scenichudson.org
This document summarizes a study analyzing the impact of aerosols on three sequential lake effect snowstorms near Lake Ontario in Upstate New York. The study found that the storm with the highest measured aerosol concentrations, English Setter, showed the greatest redistribution of snowfall inland beyond the Tug Hill Plateau. However, the impacts of aerosols were still ambiguous. Low aerosol levels during other storms still resulted in some snowfall displacement, suggesting flow patterns also influenced precipitation distribution. The document concludes that while aerosol concentrations were generally low, their role in lake effect snowfall warrants further investigation.
This document analyzes the relationship between rainfall and turbidity levels in Elliot Bay near Seattle, Washington. Cross-covariance analysis found a significant positive correlation between daily rainfall and top turbidity levels with lags of 3 days, -1 year, 25 days, and 40 days, suggesting urban runoff impacts turbidity. No significant correlation was found between rainfall and bottom turbidity levels. The results support the hypothesis of a positive correlation between rainfall and top turbidity within 3 days but are uncertain due to potential calibration issues with the turbidity sensors and complexity of turbidity drivers. More research is needed to better understand turbidity generation locations and mechanisms impacting both top and bottom turbidity in Elliot Bay.
This document summarizes an integrated surface water and groundwater model developed for the MacKay River watershed in Alberta, Canada to assess cumulative effects of oil sands operations on water resources. The model was calibrated against streamflow and groundwater level observations over a 38-year period. Key features included a 400m groundwater grid, 200m surface hydrology grid, representation of geology, climate inputs, vegetation/wetlands, and frozen ground processes. The calibrated model will be used to simulate current and future conditions to evaluate sustainability.
This document summarizes a paired watershed study evaluating ephemeral gully erosion on cultivated fields in central Kansas. Ephemeral gullies are localized areas of soil erosion formed by concentrated water flow during heavy rainfall events. The study compares erosion in two similar watersheds - Running Turkey Creek (undisturbed) and Dry Turkey Creek (disturbed with more conservation practices). Topographic index models are used to predict gully locations and lengths are measured. Results show the Compound Topographic Index model best identifies gullies, with 67% accuracy. Gully surveys find deposition occurring in no-till fields while tilled fields experience more erosion. Best management practices recommended include no-till, cover crops, and installing vegetated waterways
- Retrospective model simulations from 1987-2010 indicate that on average glacier melt represented 31% of annual discharge from the Zongo River watershed, increasing up to 90% during dry years.
- Analysis of CMIP5 climate model outputs project increases in high altitude air temperatures throughout the year, with the highest increases of 3-4 degrees in winter months by 2100.
- Initial future simulations indicate glacier melt will both increase and decrease seasonally in the near future, but decline throughout the entire year in the latter half of the 21st century as glaciers recede.
- This coupled glacio-hydrological modeling approach demonstrates potential as a tool for predicting watershed processes and uncertainties in glaciated areas under climate
DSD-INT 2017 Tracking of red tide movement in Hong Kong waters - WongDeltares
Presentation by Ken T. M. Wong, University of Hong Kong (HKU), Hong Kong, at the Delft3D - User Days (Day 3: Water quality and ecology), during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Wednesday, 1 November 2017, Delft.
East Coast MARE Ocean Lecture May 16, 2012 - Surf's Up! All About Waves at th...coseenow
The document discusses waves and coastal processes. It describes how waves form, grow, and change as they approach the shoreline. This includes wave shoaling, refraction, and breaking. It also discusses surf zone currents and sediment transport. Coastal changes occur over various timescales from storms to sea level rise. Long-term trends include shoreline erosion and accretion. Rising sea levels are projected to increase coastal flooding risks in the future.
DSD-INT 2017 Energy transfers and reflection of infragravity waves at a dissi...Deltares
Presentation by Anouk de Bakker (CNRS-Université de La Rochelle) at the XBeach X (10th Year Anniversary) Conference, during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Wednesday, 1 November 2017, Delft.
1. Sea level rise is driven by thermal expansion of oceans, melting of land ice such as glaciers and ice sheets, and changes to land water storage.
2. Past rates of sea level rise have varied over time, with the 20th century rise likely the fastest in the past 2700 years.
3. Future projections estimate a rise between 0.5 to over 1 meter by 2100 depending on emissions scenario, with a long term commitment of 1-3 meters of rise for sustained warming over millennia.
Diana Allen, SFU - Water Science Research: Challenges and Success Stories in ...BC Water Science Symposium
The document discusses several case studies of water science research projects in BC that aimed to further the understanding of groundwater systems and highlight both the successes and challenges of knowledge translation. It provides details on projects focused on the Grand Forks, Gulf Islands, and Okanagan Basin regions that developed conceptual models, conducted vulnerability analyses, and assessed potential climate change impacts. However, the document notes that while some academic research has informed policy, often the findings are not effectively communicated to decision makers.
Monitoring the Effectiveness of Erosion Control Efforts on Kahoolawe, Hawaiicorrin
This document summarizes a USGS study monitoring erosion on the island of Kaho'olawe, Hawaii. The study aims to assess the effectiveness of restoration efforts in reducing erosion by periodically measuring soil erosion at locations undergoing restoration and comparing them to non-restored areas. Preliminary results after one year found that the erosion rate in restoration areas was statistically lower than in non-restored areas, though more monitoring is still needed as the effects of restoration are expected to increase over time as plants grow. Rills showed extremes of erosion and deposition but similar average changes as interfluves. Erosion was also high in hummocks.
This document discusses using GPS vertical positioning to monitor groundwater storage changes. It begins by explaining that groundwater mining is a global problem, and that extracting groundwater causes the land surface to rise as the total water storage decreases. It then discusses how GPS networks can detect these vertical position changes at the sub-centimeter level on a daily basis, allowing monitoring of seasonal water changes. Finally, it notes that long-term groundwater pumping can lead to both reversible and irreversible subsidence exceeding several meters, and provides examples from California's Central Valley.
This document discusses methods for characterizing groundwater storage, including traditional well measurements and satellite-based GRACE observations. It defines terrestrial water storage as all water on the land surface, and explains that groundwater often dominates variations in storage. Wells measure groundwater levels, with changes indicating replenishment or depletion over time. GRACE satellites detect changes in mass distribution and associated gravity field variations to infer changes in total water storage, including groundwater, at coarse spatial scales. The document provides examples of using both approaches to monitor groundwater in key aquifers.
Sea Level Change and Coastal Hazards in WashingtonSheila Wilson
This document summarizes information about sea level rise in Washington state. It discusses observed trends showing rising sea levels and projected increases ranging from 11 to 38 inches by 2100 depending on greenhouse gas emission scenarios. Regional variations exist due to factors like vertical land movement. Sea level rise increases risks of flooding, erosion, and habitat loss. Near-term challenges include more extreme high tides and storm surges that can impact coastal populations, infrastructure and resources even before permanent inundation occurs. Regional and local efforts are underway to address these risks through climate preparedness planning.
Sea Level Changes as recorded in nature itselfIJERA Editor
This document summarizes research on sea level changes as recorded through field observations and geological records. It makes three key points:
1) Sea level has risen about 120 meters since the last glacial maximum and the rise has occurred through oscillations, not steadily. The maximum rate of sea level rise was about 10 mm/yr as the last ice age ended.
2) Sea level records from locations around the world show oscillations continuing throughout the Holocene and up to the present, contradicting claims of a steady rise recently.
3) Present rates of sea level rise are between 0-2 mm/yr based on tide gauge data and estimates of land movement. Claims of much higher rises are not supported by field evidence
This document discusses ephemeral gully erosion, which refers to temporary gullies that form in agricultural fields during rainfall events and are later erased through tillage. It provides details on ephemeral gullies, including that they frequently occur in natural drainage depressions and remove soil to the depth of the tillage layer. The document also notes that ephemeral gully erosion accounts for a large portion of watershed sediment and that improved models are needed to better understand and address it. It goes on to describe the development and use of an ephemeral gully erosion model to analyze erosion rates within a specific watershed and assist outreach to local landowners.
ARMF 2014 Employment of Proactive Mitigation Strategies in Combination with R...Janna Ellis Kepley
Proactive mitigation strategies like Everglades restoration are needed to counteract sea level rise in Florida in the long run. Reactive barriers will still be necessary in the short term to protect against coastal damage from storms and flooding. A combination of proactive and reactive strategies is recommended, including continuing Everglades restoration projects and updating infrastructure, while also maintaining some reactive barriers. Everglades restoration provides significant economic benefits compared to costs and helps mitigate effects of sea level rise like saltwater intrusion.
This document analyzes the teleconnections between climate indices, sea surface temperature (SST), and vegetation productivity in the Sahel as measured by NDVI from 1982-2007. It finds significant correlations between climate indices like ENSO, NAO, PDO, and IOD and NDVI across the Sahel, though the strength of correlations varies between western, central, and eastern regions. Pixel-level correlations between global SST anomalies and NDVI also show an east-west gradient, with stronger associations in western Sahel. Warmer Mediterranean SSTs correlate with higher NDVI in central Sahel, while cooler eastern Pacific and warmer eastern Atlantic SSTs correlate with higher NDVI in western Sahel.
IAHR 2015 - Predicting long waves and their coastal impacts, Roelvink, Unesco...Deltares
1. The document discusses modeling long waves and their coastal impacts using the XBeach model.
2. XBeach is an open source model that can resolve both short waves and long infragravity waves in the time domain to model processes like dune erosion, overwash, and inundation.
3. The document provides several examples of validation studies comparing XBeach predictions of wave properties and morphological change to field observations for different coastal environments including beaches, barrier islands, coral reefs and tidal inlets.
Jason Winner, Conservation GIS Manager for Scenic Hudson presents on the new Sea Level Rise Mapper.
The mapper is a tool for communities and stakeholders to use to create visualizations of future scenarios of sea level rise. With these maps and information, Scenic Hudson is supporting communities' efforts to develop adaptation plans by helping them to:
- create maps of the extent and impacts of inundation and flood zone expansion
- understand the locations of key built and natural resources
- create graphics that illustrate different sea level rise scenarios in specific communities or stretches of the river
- estimate the risks to infrastructure and natural resources and the likelihoods of different inundation events
- develop alternative adaptation scenarios and weigh their cost and benefits with respect to built infrastructure and natural resources
** The Sea Level Rise Mapper can be found on Scenic Hudson's website at: http://www.scenichudson.org/slr/mapper
For more information, contact Jason Winner at Scenic Hudson at (845) 473-4440 ext 223, or jwinner@scenichudson.org
This document summarizes a study analyzing the impact of aerosols on three sequential lake effect snowstorms near Lake Ontario in Upstate New York. The study found that the storm with the highest measured aerosol concentrations, English Setter, showed the greatest redistribution of snowfall inland beyond the Tug Hill Plateau. However, the impacts of aerosols were still ambiguous. Low aerosol levels during other storms still resulted in some snowfall displacement, suggesting flow patterns also influenced precipitation distribution. The document concludes that while aerosol concentrations were generally low, their role in lake effect snowfall warrants further investigation.
This document analyzes the relationship between rainfall and turbidity levels in Elliot Bay near Seattle, Washington. Cross-covariance analysis found a significant positive correlation between daily rainfall and top turbidity levels with lags of 3 days, -1 year, 25 days, and 40 days, suggesting urban runoff impacts turbidity. No significant correlation was found between rainfall and bottom turbidity levels. The results support the hypothesis of a positive correlation between rainfall and top turbidity within 3 days but are uncertain due to potential calibration issues with the turbidity sensors and complexity of turbidity drivers. More research is needed to better understand turbidity generation locations and mechanisms impacting both top and bottom turbidity in Elliot Bay.
This document summarizes an integrated surface water and groundwater model developed for the MacKay River watershed in Alberta, Canada to assess cumulative effects of oil sands operations on water resources. The model was calibrated against streamflow and groundwater level observations over a 38-year period. Key features included a 400m groundwater grid, 200m surface hydrology grid, representation of geology, climate inputs, vegetation/wetlands, and frozen ground processes. The calibrated model will be used to simulate current and future conditions to evaluate sustainability.
This document summarizes a paired watershed study evaluating ephemeral gully erosion on cultivated fields in central Kansas. Ephemeral gullies are localized areas of soil erosion formed by concentrated water flow during heavy rainfall events. The study compares erosion in two similar watersheds - Running Turkey Creek (undisturbed) and Dry Turkey Creek (disturbed with more conservation practices). Topographic index models are used to predict gully locations and lengths are measured. Results show the Compound Topographic Index model best identifies gullies, with 67% accuracy. Gully surveys find deposition occurring in no-till fields while tilled fields experience more erosion. Best management practices recommended include no-till, cover crops, and installing vegetated waterways
- Retrospective model simulations from 1987-2010 indicate that on average glacier melt represented 31% of annual discharge from the Zongo River watershed, increasing up to 90% during dry years.
- Analysis of CMIP5 climate model outputs project increases in high altitude air temperatures throughout the year, with the highest increases of 3-4 degrees in winter months by 2100.
- Initial future simulations indicate glacier melt will both increase and decrease seasonally in the near future, but decline throughout the entire year in the latter half of the 21st century as glaciers recede.
- This coupled glacio-hydrological modeling approach demonstrates potential as a tool for predicting watershed processes and uncertainties in glaciated areas under climate
DSD-INT 2017 Tracking of red tide movement in Hong Kong waters - WongDeltares
Presentation by Ken T. M. Wong, University of Hong Kong (HKU), Hong Kong, at the Delft3D - User Days (Day 3: Water quality and ecology), during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Wednesday, 1 November 2017, Delft.
East Coast MARE Ocean Lecture May 16, 2012 - Surf's Up! All About Waves at th...coseenow
The document discusses waves and coastal processes. It describes how waves form, grow, and change as they approach the shoreline. This includes wave shoaling, refraction, and breaking. It also discusses surf zone currents and sediment transport. Coastal changes occur over various timescales from storms to sea level rise. Long-term trends include shoreline erosion and accretion. Rising sea levels are projected to increase coastal flooding risks in the future.
DSD-INT 2017 Energy transfers and reflection of infragravity waves at a dissi...Deltares
Presentation by Anouk de Bakker (CNRS-Université de La Rochelle) at the XBeach X (10th Year Anniversary) Conference, during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Wednesday, 1 November 2017, Delft.
This document summarizes a thesis that studied variations in groundwater seepage lines on meso-tidal dissipative beaches. Key findings include that beachface volume is more correlated with groundwater seepage lines during low tide. Field data and video images showed decoupling of seepage lines and shorelines during tides. Numerical models could predict tidal groundwater changes and seepage line positions. The thesis concluded that beach slope, hydraulic conductivity, wave setup, and rip currents most influence seepage lines and suggested further study of their effects.
DSD-INT 2022 Hydrodynamics, connectivity and thermodynamics of a coral reef a...Deltares
Presentation by Camille Grimaldi (University of Western Australia, Australia), at the Delft3D User Days, during Delft Software Days - Edition 2022. Monday, 14 November 2022.
Sediment mobility modelling and maerl habitat dynamics in Galway Bay. Siddhi ...Stephen Flood
"Siddhi will describe work undertaken as part of her PhD to look at Sediment mobility modelling and maerl habitat dynamics in Galway Bay."
Presented at the DHI Ireland Symposium 2018.
This document summarizes a dissertation submitted for a master's degree in physical oceanography. The study analyzed beach processes, specifically surf zone currents, longshore currents, and rip currents along the Visakhapatnam coast in India. Methodologies included constructing wave refraction diagrams from deep water waves from various directions and periods, and computing resulting longshore currents and locations of rip currents. Fieldwork involved measuring longshore current velocities and directions at different stations and under various wave and tide conditions. Key findings included identification of maximum longshore currents and locations of rip currents between stations due to wave convergence.
This document provides an overview of coastal engineering processes and applications. It begins with an introduction to coastal processes, including terminology, typical coastal zones, and examples of engineering projects. It then covers topics like sediment characteristics, long-term processes like sea level rise, hydrodynamics including tides, storms, and water waves. Methods for measuring and modeling coastal responses are discussed, along with techniques for modifying shorelines like beach nourishment and hard structures. The document uses diagrams and photographs of international case studies to illustrate key concepts in coastal engineering.
Understanding Who is AT RISK - Flood extent modellingAlex Nwoko
Understanding Flood Risk Using Surface Flood Extent Modelling. This study used ArcMap and HECRAS to evaluate flood risk exposure of River Wansbeck in Morpeth, UK.
Beach slopes from satellite-derived shorelines [Coast2Coast presentation]Kilian Vos
How to estimate beach slopes in the absence of in situ measurements? Here are my slides from a recent presentation at the Coast2Coast webinar (organised by @Giovanni Coco, @Kristen Splinter, @Mitchell Harley) on a new technique to estimate beach slopes using satellite-derived shorelines and a global tide model.
Beach slope data available at http://coastsat.wrl.unsw.edu.au/ and preprint at https://www.essoar.org/doi/10.1002/essoar.10502903.1.
DSD-INT - SWAN Advanced Course - 03 - Model physics in SWANDeltares
The document summarizes the physics models in the third generation wave model SWAN. It describes how SWAN models wave generation by wind, propagation, and transformation through nonlinear interactions. It also covers dissipation processes like whitecapping, depth-induced breaking, and bottom friction. Key aspects modeled include the fully spectral representation of wave energy, source terms in the action balance equation, and approximations used for nonlinear interactions like quadruplets and triads. Validation studies show the models generally perform well but have room for improvement, such as more accurate representations of whitecapping and triad interactions.
The document discusses coastal protection techniques. It begins by explaining the importance of coasts and the need for coastal protection due to erosion from storms and rising sea levels. It then describes hard and soft engineering techniques for coastal protection. Hard techniques include breakwaters, gabions, groynes, revetments, sea walls, and use rigid structures to defend coastlines. Soft techniques like beach nourishment, dune stabilization, and mangroves are more natural and sustainable approaches. The document provides details on various hard and soft techniques, their advantages and disadvantages. It concludes by discussing physical aspects of coastal protection like wave types, wave control through reflection, refraction, and breaking.
This document summarizes a study of erosion control techniques used by homeowners along the Severn River. Through interviews and site observations, the study examined a variety of structural (e.g. bulkheads, revetments) and non-structural (e.g. vegetation) techniques used to stabilize slopes. The location of each technique was mapped using GIS to analyze how factors like slope, elevation, wind exposure, and soil type relate to erosion risks and choice of mitigation approach. The study found that steeper slopes facing areas with higher wind and wave exposure were more prone to erosion. Homeowners with more financial means could implement hybrid structural-nonstructural approaches most effectively.
This document reviews over 150 years of research on characterizing breaking waves. It discusses the various parameters used to describe breaking waves, such as wave height at breaking, water depth at breaking, and seafloor slope. The definitions of when and where breaking occurs have varied between studies. Recent research has improved understanding of breaking wave vortex parameters and plunge distances. However, a universally agreed upon set of definitions for key breaking wave parameters is still needed to advance predictive capabilities and allow comparison between studies.
1) Tidal mixing was likely greater in the glacial ocean during the Last Glacial Maximum (LGM) around 20,000 years ago compared to present day due to different ocean bathymetry from large ice sheets.
2) Increased tidal mixing in climate model simulations of the LGM leads to a stronger Atlantic Meridional Overturning Circulation (AMOC) and more vigorous Antarctic Bottom Water (AABW) formation.
3) The stronger AMOC and AABW in the model simulations with increased LGM tidal mixing improves agreement with sediment core data on carbon and oxygen isotopes.
Chapter 1 introduction to coastal engineering and management strategiesMohsin Siddique
This document provides an overview of coastal engineering and beach processes. It begins with an introduction to coastal engineering and management. It then discusses coastal zone terminology and beach profile terminology. The key processes in the nearshore zone are described, including wave shoaling, breaking, refraction, diffraction, longshore and rip currents. The key components of beaches and how they respond dynamically to sea forces like waves, tides, currents, and storms are also summarized.
DSD-INT 2018 Assessment of runup reduction potential due to coral reef restor...Deltares
Presentation by Stuart Pearson, TU Delft/Deltares, at the XBeach User Day 2018, during Delft Software Days - Edition 2018. Thursday, 15 November 2018, Delft.
Modelling extreme conditions for wave overtopping at Weymouth - Oliver Way (H...Stephen Flood
2015 DHI UK & Ireland Symposium
Modelling of Extreme Conditions for Wave Overtopping at Weymouth Bay
Oliver Way (Hyder Consulting), Tuesday 21 April 2015 at 16:00 - 16:20
A wave model study of Weymouth Bay was undertaken for Weymouth and Portland Borough Council to investigate flooding in the historical centre of Weymouth which is understood to be caused by tidal and fluvial waters overtopping flood defences, groundwater rising above ground level in response to high tides and heavy rain and wave overtopping along the open coast / Esplanade. The wave modelling results in this study are used to provide input conditions to the overtopping calculations which will in turn be used as inputs to the models of overland flow to provide flood extents. MIKE 21 SW was applied to simulate extreme wave conditions with combined extreme water levels. The model domain extends from Chesil Beach in the west to Lulworth Cove in the east. Extreme water level data were supplied by the Environment Agency for Weymouth from the Coastal flood boundary conditions for UK mainland and islands report (Environment Agency, 2012). Extreme wave values were also obtained from this Environment Agency report at offshore locations on the model boundary. Extreme wave conditions were considered for three directional sectors: south west, south and south east. A joint probability approach was applied for a range of return periods and climate change epochs. Wave data were extracted at nearshore locations along the beach front of Weymouth Bay. These data were used as input conditions for wave overtopping calculations (EurOtop) at site specific points along the beach to determine overtopping discharge rates along the beach front.
The document discusses pore pressure conditions in brittle translational rockslides. It finds that these rockslides often have complex hydrostratigraphy with multiple water tables and confined pressures separated by sliding planes. Pore pressures are influenced by the ratio of recharge rate to surface layer conductivity. Clayey shear bands reduce conductivity and can create large negative pore pressure zones or strong pressure gradients. Pore pressure transients from lake level variations or recharge can show phase shifts when passing through low permeability layers. Significant knowledge gaps remain regarding saturation-suction relationships in fractured rock slopes.
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2. 23 februari 2018
The stage
Incident wave groups
Outgoing
free long wave
OFLW
Run up
Overwash
Flooding
Set up, S-S, IG, VLF wavesWave breaking
Reef flat
Island
Reef slope
Reef edge
Shoreline
3. Reef slope
• Wave shoaling follows mild-slope theory (Lowe et al., 2005a;
Monismith et al., 2015) even though
• waves are steep and asymmetrical
• bottom slope is steep and complex
• Improvements can be made using higher-order theories but
probably minor contribution
• Research need is wave dissipation due to high friction
• Effect of offshore wave directionality and spreading
• Data: bathy & rugosity hard to obtain in situ, remote sensing an
option
23 februari 2018
N
4. Reef edge – wave breaking
Field observations
• Violent dissipation of S-S (0.04-0.2 Hz) energy in plunging breakers
• Transformation to IG (0.005-0.04 Hz) and VLF (0.001-0.005 Hz) bands.
• On rough complex reefs dissipation by bottom friction > wave breaking
(Rogers, Monismith). Consequences for setup
Model results:
• Surprisingly good results for bulk Hm0 with simple models using a
constant γ
• γ ranges 0.6-1.1 and trends positively with beach slope but is a free
parameter
• Details of wave breaking not captured by simple models:
• Consequences for wave-induced forcing
• Detailed measurements in lab (Buckley et al., 2014)
• Need for detailed measurements in the field
23 februari 2018
5. Reef Edge - IG wave generation
• S-S energy transformation to IG
wave band
• IG waves generated by
breakpoint mechanism
• Numerical experiment on
contribution of offshore bound
wave and surfzone (breakpoint)
forced waves
• Surfzone generation only: no
difference in H_IG on reef
• Offshore generation only: 70%
reduction of H_IG
23 februari 2018
Full
Surfzone generated
Offshore bound wave
crossshorecrossshorecrossshore
time
6. Reef edge – IG energy balance
• Largely balance between flux, radiation stress input and bottom friction
dissipation
• large ε = IG wave bore dissipation?
23 februari 2018
Do IG waves
become so
large as to
dissipate and
break on the
reef edge?
Energybalanceterms
7. Reef flat – water levels
• Tides
• Astronomic tides are well understood. Unknowns: effect of (macro)
tidal variation on waves and bottom friction transformation in case of
macro-tides.
• Surge
• Driven by inverse barometric effect. Only important in case of “direct
hit”, wind-driven set up smaller due to lack of continental shelf.
• Wave-induced setup
• Proportional to breaking wave height
• Inversely proportional to water depth (Becker et al 2013) -> smaller
depth -> larger rad stress term -> larger setup
• Models underestimate setup levels due to incomplete forcing
• Resonance
• See next slides
23 februari 2018
Setup almost linearly
dependent on wave
height and inversely
proportional to tide
level
8. Narrow reef flats (<400m) – S-S and IG waves
• S-S wave heights display tidal control
• High tide: shoreline wave climate
dominated by S-S waves
• IG waves not tidally controlled and
driven by offshore forcing
• Low tide: runup elevation determined by
set-up.
23 februari 2018
Tide level (m)
HS-S
HIG
η
Beet
ham,
JGR
2015
9. Wide reef flats (> 400 m) – S-S and IG waves
• IG waves dominate spectrum on inner reef flat
• IG dissipation due to bottom friction, tidal control
• S-S wave dissipation by breaking and bottom friction
23 februari 2018
Offshoretoonshore
• Fairly well predicted
• Friction is important
• Need characterization
of coral species in terms
of roughness
coefficients
• Or direct simulation of
two-layer flow.
10. IG wave response on narrow and wide reefs
• Analytical model extending breakpoint forcing to IG band predicts
shoreline IG wave height (Becker et al 2015)
• Response controlled by
23 februari 2018
Smoother/narrower/deeper Rougher/wider/shallower
Hf is
reef-
face
wave
height
11. Reef flat - friction
• Friction factors much larger than on sandy beaches (by factor 100)
• Fw ~ 0.2 (Lowe) – 2! (Monismith)
• Fc ~ 0.02 – 0.1, so order smaller.
• Fc decreases with increasing depth (Pomeroy et al 2012)
• Fc decreases with decreasing frequency (Lowe et al, 2005a)
• Fc and fw expected to decrease with declining reef health.
• How to translate props of coral reefs species to spatially varying
friction fields?
• More physical: account for porosity of reefs (in-canopy model)?
23 februari 2018
12. In canopy model validation on Buckley Labdata (rough elements)
• Small modification to S-S wave
height transformation
• Much better transformation of IG
relative to
• Reference (smooth bed)
• Calibrated (rough bed, cf
tuninng)
• Overprediction of setup.
23 februari 2018
𝐻𝑟𝑚𝑠 = 0.06
13. Underestimation of set up
• Reasonable agreement on set
up for Demirbilek case (mild
foreshore slope) after tuning
• Underestimation of set up on
steeper foreshore slopes
(Buckley case) relative to
theoretical momentum balance
linear theory
• Need roller model to transfer
momentum upward and
shoreward.
• Roller models are not
commonly included in phase
resolving models
23 februari 2018
14. Reef flat – VLF motions (Gawehn et al, 2016)
Resonant waves at high
water level and low
peak frequencies
Standing waves at
intermediate to high
water levels
Progressive-growing at
intermediate water
levels
Progressive-dissipative at
low water levels.
23 februari 2018
Progressive-Dissipative
Progressive-Growing
StandingResonant
3.5% 31%
28.5%
37%
Gawehn et al. JGR 2016
DEPTH
Frequency
15. Reef flat - currents
• Wave breaking generates a radiation stress gradient which is
balanced in part by a pressure gradient
• In the case of a low bottom frictional resistance, a cross-shore flow
can be generated (from advective terms)
• Friction is thus the controlling factor
23 februari 2018
• Outstanding questions:
• Some obs on fringing reefs, few on atolls
• What effect does 2D current field have
on wave attack on beaches?
16. Island - runup
• Wave run-up composed of
• Mean component (surge, tide, wave setup)
• Oscillatory component (IG and S-S)
• Contributions vary according to forcing and reef params
• Wave runup measurements on reefs are scarce
• (Becker, Beetham, Cheriton), flotsam lines (Shimozono)
• Wave runup under predicted by models
• Wave overtopping
• Not systematically measured
23 februari 2018
Runup larger for narrower
reefs and steeper beach
slopes
17. Runup contribution per frequency band
21
Runup trends reflect field and laboratory observations
(a) (b) (c) (d)
(e) (f) (g)
Pearson et al JGR 2017
IG dominant on narrow reefs
Consistent with Shimozono, not with Beetham?
18. Shimozono vs. Beetham
23 februari 2018
IG dominant in
absolute sense.
S-S relatively
more important
with decreasing
width
Narrow reef:
S-S larger in
absolute sense
for higher water
levels.
19. Runup characteristics as f(width, beach slope)
23 februari 2018
Narrow reef: IG and S-S with reef flat and beach resonances, large number of runup events
Wide reef & steep beach: n-l steepening, IG bores, fewer runups but large damages
Wide reef & mild beach: breaking dissipation, fewer and more gradual runups, less damages
Shimozono et al, JGR 2015
20. Runup and overtopping trends per coastal orientation
23 februari 2018
Large change for
previously sheltered
reef
Decrease in
overtopping:
due to
topography?
Shope et al., 2016
21. Island/coast - flooding
• Flooding on Roi Namur due to
• Two wave events with large wave heights and large wave
periods
• Spring high tides
Causing
• Skewed IG waves and
• energetic VLF wave heights.
• But also one anomalous wave event
• Moderate offshore wave height but spring tide
• Wave event seen propagating over the reef flat
• Phasing of wave components important?
23 februari 2018
Cheriton et al, 2016
22. Application: Ebeye, RMI
23 februari 2018
Giardino and Nederhoff, World Bank report
• On small islands
2D shock-
capturing models
suffice
• Missing/under-
researched
processes:
• Groundwater
infiltration
• Lagoon flooding
• Larger coasts:
• Reduced physics
flood solvers
23. 23 februari 2018
Roi-Namur: waves matter
Time (years) ->
RCP8.5+iceRCP8.5RCP4.5
NO WAVES, JUST SLR
Wave-induced flooding will cause significant impacts decades before static
SLR+tide will.
Storlazzi et al. 2018 submitted
WITH WAVES
24. Round up: knowledge needs
• Reef edge
• Energy balance, IG “bore
dissipation” term
• Better description of forcing: roller
model
• Relative contributions of dissipation
by bottom friction and breaking
• (consequences for setup and
circulation)
• Reef flat
• Macro-tidal effect on waves and
circulation
• Characterization of coral species in
roughness field or replacement by
porosity.
• 2D circulation and effect on wave
propagation
• Trigger parameters for resonance
(predictability)
23 februari 2018
• Island coasts
• Runup dynamics (S-S/IG/VLF,
relative magnitude & phasing,
directions and spreading)
• Morphodynamic coupled
response due to change in
forcing
• SLR, wave angle, dir.
spreading -> erosion and
overtopping
• Underprediction of setup and
wave runup.
• Flooding on lagoon side ->
triggers.
• Interaction ground water/surface
water
• Reduced complexity flood
solvers
25. Round up: data gaps -> needs
• Bathymetry
• Shoaling zone through remote sensing
• Porosity of reef structures
• Topography
• Elevation of islands and coasts through remote sensing, LIDAR, Laser
• Hope for better SRTM?
• Wave breaking
• Field observations of breaking process. How??
• Circulation
• 2D current fields on alongshore varying bathymetries
• Runup and overwash
• Observations (long term and high resolution): sensor
strings/drones/video?
• Flooding
• Time variation of flood extents, depths
• Ground water/aquifer interactions.
23 februari 2018
Editor's Notes
Insert schematic by Lowe 2005 or 2007.
Insert figures from Lashley and Buckley
Figure from pomeroy 2012.
Figure from van dongeren 2013.
Lashley and buckley
(Hearn, 1999; Lowe et al., 2009; Lugo‐Fernandez et al., 1998; Péquignet
et al., 2011; Pomeroy et al., 2012).
beetham
Péquignet et al. (2009), Pomeroy et al. (2012),
(Jaramillo and Pawlak, 2011; Nelson, 1996; Nunes and Pawlak, 2008)
Reference = smooth
Calibrated = calibrated with cf, without canopy model
+ = incoming
- = outgoing
Buckley 2014 Ocean Dynamics, Buckley 2015 JPO
Cheriton paper. Movie Gawehn
Lowe et al 2009, lowe 2010, symonds and black 2001.
Consistent with Becker 2016. IG increases with narrower, smoother, deeper.