Presentation by Anouk de Bakker (CNRS-Université de La Rochelle) at the XBeach X (10th Year Anniversary) Conference, during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Wednesday, 1 November 2017, Delft.
DSD-INT 2017 Infragravity Wave Modelling Over A Steep Rocky Bathymetry - DodetDeltares
Presentation by Guillaume Dodet (Université de Brest) at the XBeach X (10th Year Anniversary) Conference, during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Thursday, 2 November 2017, Delft.
DSD-INT 2017 Breaking bar migration induced by infragravity waves - MichalletDeltares
Presentation by Hervé Michallet (LEGI, CNRS, University of Grenoble-Alpes) at the XBeach X (10th Year Anniversary) Conference, during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Wednesday, 1 November 2017, Delft.
DSD-INT 2017 Wave-Induced Reef Barrier Currents, XBeach Simulation vs Field M...Deltares
Presentation by Damien Sous (Université De Toulon) at the XBeach X (10th Year Anniversary) Conference, during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Thursday, 2 November 2017, Delft.
DSD-INT 2017 Drivers of estuarine sand and mud dynamics, the example of the W...Deltares
The document summarizes a modeling study of the Weser estuary in Germany. Key points:
- A morphodynamic model of the Weser estuary was set up using Delft3D to investigate drivers of sand and mud dynamics.
- The model was validated against hydrodynamic and morphological observations, achieving good agreement.
- Model runs separated the influence of tides, wind, and waves on morphological change. Tides dominated subtidal change while waves dominated intertidal change.
- Storm conditions led to more erosion of intertidal shoals compared to average conditions with more deposition.
DSD-INT 2017 Tracking of red tide movement in Hong Kong waters - WongDeltares
Presentation by Ken T. M. Wong, University of Hong Kong (HKU), Hong Kong, at the Delft3D - User Days (Day 3: Water quality and ecology), during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Wednesday, 1 November 2017, Delft.
DSD-INT 2017 Research and decision support applications of XBeach at the USGS...Deltares
Presentation by Joe Long (U.S. Geological Survey) at the XBeach X (10th Year Anniversary) Conference, during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Wednesday, 1 November 2017, Delft.
DSD-INT 2017 Infragravity Period Oscillations In A Channel Harbor Near A Rive...Deltares
Presentation by Florian Bellafont (Université Pau & Pays de l’Adour) at the XBeach X (10th Year Anniversary) Conference, during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Friday, 3 November 2017, Delft.
DSD-INT 2017 Washover processes at the Wadden Island of Schiermonnikoog, The ...Deltares
This document discusses a study that used field data and XBeach modeling to analyze washover processes on the Wadden Island of Schiermonnikoog in the Netherlands. The study used XBeach's 1D mode to model wave, tide, and storm surge conditions, and its 2D mode to model sediment transport under different washover geometries. The modeling showed that currents dominate sediment transport during inundation, which is influenced by the pressure gradient between water levels in the North Sea and Wadden Sea. The study also found that small, frequent inundation events are important for long-term sediment transport, and that sediment transport is sensitive to the dimensions of washover openings.
DSD-INT 2017 Infragravity Wave Modelling Over A Steep Rocky Bathymetry - DodetDeltares
Presentation by Guillaume Dodet (Université de Brest) at the XBeach X (10th Year Anniversary) Conference, during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Thursday, 2 November 2017, Delft.
DSD-INT 2017 Breaking bar migration induced by infragravity waves - MichalletDeltares
Presentation by Hervé Michallet (LEGI, CNRS, University of Grenoble-Alpes) at the XBeach X (10th Year Anniversary) Conference, during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Wednesday, 1 November 2017, Delft.
DSD-INT 2017 Wave-Induced Reef Barrier Currents, XBeach Simulation vs Field M...Deltares
Presentation by Damien Sous (Université De Toulon) at the XBeach X (10th Year Anniversary) Conference, during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Thursday, 2 November 2017, Delft.
DSD-INT 2017 Drivers of estuarine sand and mud dynamics, the example of the W...Deltares
The document summarizes a modeling study of the Weser estuary in Germany. Key points:
- A morphodynamic model of the Weser estuary was set up using Delft3D to investigate drivers of sand and mud dynamics.
- The model was validated against hydrodynamic and morphological observations, achieving good agreement.
- Model runs separated the influence of tides, wind, and waves on morphological change. Tides dominated subtidal change while waves dominated intertidal change.
- Storm conditions led to more erosion of intertidal shoals compared to average conditions with more deposition.
DSD-INT 2017 Tracking of red tide movement in Hong Kong waters - WongDeltares
Presentation by Ken T. M. Wong, University of Hong Kong (HKU), Hong Kong, at the Delft3D - User Days (Day 3: Water quality and ecology), during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Wednesday, 1 November 2017, Delft.
DSD-INT 2017 Research and decision support applications of XBeach at the USGS...Deltares
Presentation by Joe Long (U.S. Geological Survey) at the XBeach X (10th Year Anniversary) Conference, during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Wednesday, 1 November 2017, Delft.
DSD-INT 2017 Infragravity Period Oscillations In A Channel Harbor Near A Rive...Deltares
Presentation by Florian Bellafont (Université Pau & Pays de l’Adour) at the XBeach X (10th Year Anniversary) Conference, during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Friday, 3 November 2017, Delft.
DSD-INT 2017 Washover processes at the Wadden Island of Schiermonnikoog, The ...Deltares
This document discusses a study that used field data and XBeach modeling to analyze washover processes on the Wadden Island of Schiermonnikoog in the Netherlands. The study used XBeach's 1D mode to model wave, tide, and storm surge conditions, and its 2D mode to model sediment transport under different washover geometries. The modeling showed that currents dominate sediment transport during inundation, which is influenced by the pressure gradient between water levels in the North Sea and Wadden Sea. The study also found that small, frequent inundation events are important for long-term sediment transport, and that sediment transport is sensitive to the dimensions of washover openings.
DSD-INT 2017 Moth plant dispersion Modelling based on synoptic weather patter...Deltares
Presentation by Chris van Diemen, University of Amsterdam (UvA), Netherlands, at the Delft3D - User Days (Day 1: Hydrodynamics), during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Monday, 30 October 2017, Delft.
DSD-INT 2017 Contribution of IG waves to local runup and flooding Beach of Bi...Deltares
Presentation by Denis Morichon (Université Pau & Pays de l’Adour) at the XBeach X (10th Year Anniversary) Conference, during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Friday, 3 November 2017, Delft.
DSD-INT 2017 Morphodynamic analysis of intervention scenarios at the Belgian ...Deltares
Presentation by Gerasimos Kolokythas (Flanders Hydraulics) at the XBeach X (10th Year Anniversary) Conference, during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Wednesday, 1 November 2017, Delft.
DSD-INT 2017 Beware: Bayesian Estimation Of Wave Attack In Reef Environments ...Deltares
Presentation by Stuart G. Pearson (Deltares, TU Delft) at the XBeach X (10th Year Anniversary) Conference, during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Thursday, 2 November 2017, Delft.
DSD-INT 2017 XBeach application of coral reef-lined coasts - Van DongerenDeltares
This document summarizes research using the XBeach model to simulate wave processes on coral reef-lined coasts. Key findings include:
1) XBeach can well predict wave transformation over reefs, including separation of incident, infragravity, and very low frequency wave motions.
2) Infragravity waves are important within lagoons and near the shoreline.
3) XBeach tends to underestimate wave runup on reefs, though reef hydrodynamics are well captured.
4) Modeling of future climate change scenarios for coral islands shows that wave-induced flooding will dominate over static sea level rise effects.
This document summarizes research using the numerical model XBeach to simulate beach morphodynamic changes under storm conditions. It discusses modelling of storm-induced erosion at beaches in Australia, the UK, and reef environments. XBeach successfully reproduced beach erosion from storms and storm clusters, though recovery simulations require improvement. The model captured the complex response of the Sefton Coast in the UK to a 2013/2014 winter storm cluster, where beach recovery between closely spaced storms was minimal. Accounting for tidal effects and sediment transport processes was important for accurate modelling.
DSD-INT 2017 Biogeomorphodynamics of rivers, estuaries and their floodplains ...Deltares
Presentation by Maarten Kleinhans, University of Utrecht, Netherlands, at the Delft3D - User Days (Day 2: Sediment transport and morphology), during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Tuesday, 31 October 2017, Delft.
DSD-INT 2017 Long-term morphodynamics of muddy backbarrier basins - CanestrelliDeltares
Presentation by Alberto Canestrelli, University of Florida, USA, at the Delft3D - User Days (Day 2: Sediment transport and morphology), during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Tuesday, 31 October 2017, Delft.
DSD-INT 2017 Sea level rise impacts the nearshore wave climate and dune erosi...Deltares
Presentation by Renske de Winter (University of Utrecht) at the XBeach X (10th Year Anniversary) Conference, during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Friday, 3 November 2017, Delft.
DSD-INT 2017 Coupling XBeach-G And Longshore Sediment Transport To Model Stor...Deltares
Presentation by Rafael J. Bergillos (University Of Granada) at the XBeach X (10th Year Anniversary) Conference, during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Thursday, 2 November 2017, Delft.
DSD-INT 2017 XBeach Past, Present and Future _Keynote - RoelvinkDeltares
Presentation by Dano Roelvink (Deltares, IHE Delft) at the XBeach X (10th Year Anniversary) Conference, during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Wednesday, 1 November 2017, Delft.
DSD-INT 2017 Non-hydrostatic wave modelling at West Bay Harbour UK - Klein et...Deltares
Presentation by Mark Klein (Royal Haskoning DHV) at the XBeach X (10th Year Anniversary) Conference, during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Friday, 3 November 2017, Delft.
IAHR 2015 - Coastal flooding and dune breaching in the central part of the ba...Deltares
The document discusses coastal flooding and dune breaching during storm Xynthia in the Bay of Biscay. Storm Xynthia caused a storm surge over 1.5m in La Rochelle with winds up to 150km/h and minimum pressure of 969 mbar. It resulted in 47 deaths and over 2.5 billion euros in damages. Numerical models are used to hindcast the exceptional storm surge and associated flooding to better understand the processes and impacts of coastal flooding during major storms. The contribution of wave effects and dune breaching to coastal flooding are also analyzed.
DSD-INT 2017 Keynote: Coastal Inundation Hazards on Fringing Coral Reefs and ...Deltares
This document summarizes coastal inundation hazards in Pacific Islands from tropical cyclones. It describes two major inundation events from Tropical Cyclone Pam in 2015 which affected Vanuatu and Tuvalu, and Tropical Cyclone Winston in 2016 which impacted Fiji and Tonga. Maps and images show the extent of inundation and damage from these storms. The document also discusses using numerical modeling and GPU processing to predict coastal inundation and develop early warning systems to help communities prepare for and adapt to these hazards.
DSD-INT 2017 Understanding the Response to Extreme Events in a Deltaic Curvil...Deltares
This document discusses modeling the response of a deltaic, curvilinear coastline to extreme weather events. The study area contains hotspots sensitive to storm impacts. Both the hazard probability and consequences of storms are expected to increase. Coastal managers need decision support and early warning systems to estimate hazard extent and magnitude. The model successfully reproduced a 2008 storm event and showed the coast is similarly sensitive to changes in wave direction and projected sea level rise. Future work should include additional validation cases and accounting for wave asymmetry in steep environments.
DSD-INT 2018 Assessment of runup reduction potential due to coral reef restor...Deltares
Presentation by Stuart Pearson, TU Delft/Deltares, at the XBeach User Day 2018, during Delft Software Days - Edition 2018. Thursday, 15 November 2018, Delft.
IAHR 2015 - Predicting long waves and their coastal impacts, Roelvink, Unesco...Deltares
1. The document discusses modeling long waves and their coastal impacts using the XBeach model.
2. XBeach is an open source model that can resolve both short waves and long infragravity waves in the time domain to model processes like dune erosion, overwash, and inundation.
3. The document provides several examples of validation studies comparing XBeach predictions of wave properties and morphological change to field observations for different coastal environments including beaches, barrier islands, coral reefs and tidal inlets.
DSD-INT 2017 Keynote: towards using XBeach in the Dutch formal assessment of ...Deltares
This document discusses the use of the Xbeach model in the formal assessment of flood defences in the Netherlands in 2023. Currently, a 1D volume balance model called Duros+ is used, but it has limitations for certain coastal environments. Xbeach can potentially handle more complex situations like curved coastlines and structures. The challenges to using Xbeach include making it fully probabilistic, more user-friendly, continued validation, improving the wave envelope representation, and harmonizing hydraulic load calculations. Rijkswaterstaat aims to start work in 2018 to use Xbeach as the main dune erosion model by 2023, and the Ministry of Infrastructure will provide goals for the new assessment tools that year.
This document summarizes research on modeling sea-level rise and wave-driven inundation on Laysan Island in the Papahānaumokuākea Marine National Monument. The research aims to estimate habitat loss on the island over the next century from sea-level rise and wave inundation. It finds that passive ("bathtub") inundation models underestimate impacts compared to wave-driven models. At 1.5 meters of sea-level rise, waves are expected to breach dunes and fill interior basins. The vulnerability of seabird species on the island varies depending on their habitat distribution and life histories. Overall, more complex wave-driven models should be used instead of passive models to better
DSD-INT 2017 Modelling net-deposition of cohesive sediments within the ETM of...Deltares
This document describes a study that used a 3D numerical model to simulate net deposition of cohesive sediments in the estuarine turbidity maximum (ETM) zone of the Weser River estuary in Germany. The model was able to reproduce observed patterns of sediment concentration in the ETM and the approximate volume of sediment deposited annually, which is similar to the volume dredged for navigation. The model results indicate a stable long-term ETM that shifts seasonally depending on river discharge. Future work could improve the model by adding more sediment fractions, incorporating waves, allowing erosion of consolidated bed sediments, and making the model fully morphodynamic.
The document discusses potential impacts of wave energy projects on surfing waves. It provides examples from studies in Cornwall, England and Orkney Islands, Scotland that used numerical modeling to show how wave energy converter (WEC) arrays can reduce wave heights both immediately behind and farther from the arrays, posing a threat to surfing conditions. Specifically, the studies found wave heights could be reduced by over 20% behind the arrays and around 10% hundreds of meters away, depending on the type and porosity of the WEC devices. Larger wave farms with many WECs or lower porosity devices that absorb more wave energy were found to have a greater potential impact on surfing waves and sedimentation near shorelines.
Modeling the Frictional Effect on the Rip Current on a Linear Depth Profileijceronline
We develop an analytical theory for the interaction between waves and currents induced by breaking waves on a depth profiles. Here we examine the effect of friction on the rip currents and so are not particularly concerned with frictionally determined rip currents. The near shore is characterized by the presence of breaking waves, and so we develop equations to be used outside the surf zone, based on small-amplitude wave theory, and another set of equations to be used inside the surf zone, based on an empirical representation of breaking waves. Suitable matching conditions are applied at the boundary between the offshore shoaling zone and the near shore surf zone. Both sets of equation are obtained by averaging the basic equations over the wave phase. Thus the qualitative solution constructed is a free vortex defined in both shoaling and surf zone where in the surf zone the free vortex is perturbed by a long shore component.
DSD-INT 2017 Moth plant dispersion Modelling based on synoptic weather patter...Deltares
Presentation by Chris van Diemen, University of Amsterdam (UvA), Netherlands, at the Delft3D - User Days (Day 1: Hydrodynamics), during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Monday, 30 October 2017, Delft.
DSD-INT 2017 Contribution of IG waves to local runup and flooding Beach of Bi...Deltares
Presentation by Denis Morichon (Université Pau & Pays de l’Adour) at the XBeach X (10th Year Anniversary) Conference, during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Friday, 3 November 2017, Delft.
DSD-INT 2017 Morphodynamic analysis of intervention scenarios at the Belgian ...Deltares
Presentation by Gerasimos Kolokythas (Flanders Hydraulics) at the XBeach X (10th Year Anniversary) Conference, during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Wednesday, 1 November 2017, Delft.
DSD-INT 2017 Beware: Bayesian Estimation Of Wave Attack In Reef Environments ...Deltares
Presentation by Stuart G. Pearson (Deltares, TU Delft) at the XBeach X (10th Year Anniversary) Conference, during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Thursday, 2 November 2017, Delft.
DSD-INT 2017 XBeach application of coral reef-lined coasts - Van DongerenDeltares
This document summarizes research using the XBeach model to simulate wave processes on coral reef-lined coasts. Key findings include:
1) XBeach can well predict wave transformation over reefs, including separation of incident, infragravity, and very low frequency wave motions.
2) Infragravity waves are important within lagoons and near the shoreline.
3) XBeach tends to underestimate wave runup on reefs, though reef hydrodynamics are well captured.
4) Modeling of future climate change scenarios for coral islands shows that wave-induced flooding will dominate over static sea level rise effects.
This document summarizes research using the numerical model XBeach to simulate beach morphodynamic changes under storm conditions. It discusses modelling of storm-induced erosion at beaches in Australia, the UK, and reef environments. XBeach successfully reproduced beach erosion from storms and storm clusters, though recovery simulations require improvement. The model captured the complex response of the Sefton Coast in the UK to a 2013/2014 winter storm cluster, where beach recovery between closely spaced storms was minimal. Accounting for tidal effects and sediment transport processes was important for accurate modelling.
DSD-INT 2017 Biogeomorphodynamics of rivers, estuaries and their floodplains ...Deltares
Presentation by Maarten Kleinhans, University of Utrecht, Netherlands, at the Delft3D - User Days (Day 2: Sediment transport and morphology), during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Tuesday, 31 October 2017, Delft.
DSD-INT 2017 Long-term morphodynamics of muddy backbarrier basins - CanestrelliDeltares
Presentation by Alberto Canestrelli, University of Florida, USA, at the Delft3D - User Days (Day 2: Sediment transport and morphology), during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Tuesday, 31 October 2017, Delft.
DSD-INT 2017 Sea level rise impacts the nearshore wave climate and dune erosi...Deltares
Presentation by Renske de Winter (University of Utrecht) at the XBeach X (10th Year Anniversary) Conference, during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Friday, 3 November 2017, Delft.
DSD-INT 2017 Coupling XBeach-G And Longshore Sediment Transport To Model Stor...Deltares
Presentation by Rafael J. Bergillos (University Of Granada) at the XBeach X (10th Year Anniversary) Conference, during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Thursday, 2 November 2017, Delft.
DSD-INT 2017 XBeach Past, Present and Future _Keynote - RoelvinkDeltares
Presentation by Dano Roelvink (Deltares, IHE Delft) at the XBeach X (10th Year Anniversary) Conference, during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Wednesday, 1 November 2017, Delft.
DSD-INT 2017 Non-hydrostatic wave modelling at West Bay Harbour UK - Klein et...Deltares
Presentation by Mark Klein (Royal Haskoning DHV) at the XBeach X (10th Year Anniversary) Conference, during Delft Software Days - Edition 2017. Friday, 3 November 2017, Delft.
IAHR 2015 - Coastal flooding and dune breaching in the central part of the ba...Deltares
The document discusses coastal flooding and dune breaching during storm Xynthia in the Bay of Biscay. Storm Xynthia caused a storm surge over 1.5m in La Rochelle with winds up to 150km/h and minimum pressure of 969 mbar. It resulted in 47 deaths and over 2.5 billion euros in damages. Numerical models are used to hindcast the exceptional storm surge and associated flooding to better understand the processes and impacts of coastal flooding during major storms. The contribution of wave effects and dune breaching to coastal flooding are also analyzed.
DSD-INT 2017 Keynote: Coastal Inundation Hazards on Fringing Coral Reefs and ...Deltares
This document summarizes coastal inundation hazards in Pacific Islands from tropical cyclones. It describes two major inundation events from Tropical Cyclone Pam in 2015 which affected Vanuatu and Tuvalu, and Tropical Cyclone Winston in 2016 which impacted Fiji and Tonga. Maps and images show the extent of inundation and damage from these storms. The document also discusses using numerical modeling and GPU processing to predict coastal inundation and develop early warning systems to help communities prepare for and adapt to these hazards.
DSD-INT 2017 Understanding the Response to Extreme Events in a Deltaic Curvil...Deltares
This document discusses modeling the response of a deltaic, curvilinear coastline to extreme weather events. The study area contains hotspots sensitive to storm impacts. Both the hazard probability and consequences of storms are expected to increase. Coastal managers need decision support and early warning systems to estimate hazard extent and magnitude. The model successfully reproduced a 2008 storm event and showed the coast is similarly sensitive to changes in wave direction and projected sea level rise. Future work should include additional validation cases and accounting for wave asymmetry in steep environments.
DSD-INT 2018 Assessment of runup reduction potential due to coral reef restor...Deltares
Presentation by Stuart Pearson, TU Delft/Deltares, at the XBeach User Day 2018, during Delft Software Days - Edition 2018. Thursday, 15 November 2018, Delft.
IAHR 2015 - Predicting long waves and their coastal impacts, Roelvink, Unesco...Deltares
1. The document discusses modeling long waves and their coastal impacts using the XBeach model.
2. XBeach is an open source model that can resolve both short waves and long infragravity waves in the time domain to model processes like dune erosion, overwash, and inundation.
3. The document provides several examples of validation studies comparing XBeach predictions of wave properties and morphological change to field observations for different coastal environments including beaches, barrier islands, coral reefs and tidal inlets.
DSD-INT 2017 Keynote: towards using XBeach in the Dutch formal assessment of ...Deltares
This document discusses the use of the Xbeach model in the formal assessment of flood defences in the Netherlands in 2023. Currently, a 1D volume balance model called Duros+ is used, but it has limitations for certain coastal environments. Xbeach can potentially handle more complex situations like curved coastlines and structures. The challenges to using Xbeach include making it fully probabilistic, more user-friendly, continued validation, improving the wave envelope representation, and harmonizing hydraulic load calculations. Rijkswaterstaat aims to start work in 2018 to use Xbeach as the main dune erosion model by 2023, and the Ministry of Infrastructure will provide goals for the new assessment tools that year.
This document summarizes research on modeling sea-level rise and wave-driven inundation on Laysan Island in the Papahānaumokuākea Marine National Monument. The research aims to estimate habitat loss on the island over the next century from sea-level rise and wave inundation. It finds that passive ("bathtub") inundation models underestimate impacts compared to wave-driven models. At 1.5 meters of sea-level rise, waves are expected to breach dunes and fill interior basins. The vulnerability of seabird species on the island varies depending on their habitat distribution and life histories. Overall, more complex wave-driven models should be used instead of passive models to better
DSD-INT 2017 Modelling net-deposition of cohesive sediments within the ETM of...Deltares
This document describes a study that used a 3D numerical model to simulate net deposition of cohesive sediments in the estuarine turbidity maximum (ETM) zone of the Weser River estuary in Germany. The model was able to reproduce observed patterns of sediment concentration in the ETM and the approximate volume of sediment deposited annually, which is similar to the volume dredged for navigation. The model results indicate a stable long-term ETM that shifts seasonally depending on river discharge. Future work could improve the model by adding more sediment fractions, incorporating waves, allowing erosion of consolidated bed sediments, and making the model fully morphodynamic.
The document discusses potential impacts of wave energy projects on surfing waves. It provides examples from studies in Cornwall, England and Orkney Islands, Scotland that used numerical modeling to show how wave energy converter (WEC) arrays can reduce wave heights both immediately behind and farther from the arrays, posing a threat to surfing conditions. Specifically, the studies found wave heights could be reduced by over 20% behind the arrays and around 10% hundreds of meters away, depending on the type and porosity of the WEC devices. Larger wave farms with many WECs or lower porosity devices that absorb more wave energy were found to have a greater potential impact on surfing waves and sedimentation near shorelines.
Modeling the Frictional Effect on the Rip Current on a Linear Depth Profileijceronline
We develop an analytical theory for the interaction between waves and currents induced by breaking waves on a depth profiles. Here we examine the effect of friction on the rip currents and so are not particularly concerned with frictionally determined rip currents. The near shore is characterized by the presence of breaking waves, and so we develop equations to be used outside the surf zone, based on small-amplitude wave theory, and another set of equations to be used inside the surf zone, based on an empirical representation of breaking waves. Suitable matching conditions are applied at the boundary between the offshore shoaling zone and the near shore surf zone. Both sets of equation are obtained by averaging the basic equations over the wave phase. Thus the qualitative solution constructed is a free vortex defined in both shoaling and surf zone where in the surf zone the free vortex is perturbed by a long shore component.
This is a slide collection made for educational purposes as part of the EU Leonardo pilot project 1860 Alter ECO in 1999.
Authors: Johannes Falnes and Jørgen Hals Todalshaug
Wave-Current Interaction Model on an Exponential Profileijceronline
We develop a model that approximates the exponential depth, which exhibits the behavior of linear depth particularly in the surf zone. The main effect of the present exponential depth is found in the shoaling zone, where the depth remains finite. The basic description and the outcome is essentially rip currents where in the surf zone the wave behavior is the same as found in the linear depth case. In the shoaling zone the present exponential depth exhibits the hypergeometric functions.
This document discusses wave diffraction in coastal engineering. It introduces the group members studying this topic and provides background on coastal areas and the different types of wave deformations that can occur, including refraction, diffraction, reflection, and breaking waves. It then focuses on the theory of diffraction, explaining what causes it and defining the diffraction coefficient. It provides diagrams of diffraction behind obstacles and gaps. The document also gives the methodology for calculating diffraction wave heights using charts and provides an example problem. It concludes that diffraction occurs when wave energy is transferred behind barriers due to changes in wave height across crests.
East Coast MARE Ocean Lecture May 16, 2012 - Surf's Up! All About Waves at th...coseenow
The document discusses waves and coastal processes. It describes how waves form, grow, and change as they approach the shoreline. This includes wave shoaling, refraction, and breaking. It also discusses surf zone currents and sediment transport. Coastal changes occur over various timescales from storms to sea level rise. Long-term trends include shoreline erosion and accretion. Rising sea levels are projected to increase coastal flooding risks in the future.
This document provides an overview of coastal engineering processes and applications. It begins with an introduction to coastal processes, including terminology, typical coastal zones, and examples of engineering projects. It then covers topics like sediment characteristics, long-term processes like sea level rise, hydrodynamics including tides, storms, and water waves. Methods for measuring and modeling coastal responses are discussed, along with techniques for modifying shorelines like beach nourishment and hard structures. The document uses diagrams and photographs of international case studies to illustrate key concepts in coastal engineering.
The document discusses how the upcoming SWOT mission will improve our understanding of ocean mesoscale and submesoscale dynamics. Current altimetry observations only partially resolve processes below 150km in scale. SWOT will have 1km resolution, allowing it to observe ocean eddies and fronts as small as 10km. This high-resolution data will improve knowledge of ocean stirring, mixing and vertical exchanges that are important for climate.
Waves undergo several transformations as they propagate towards shore:
- Refraction causes waves to change direction as their speed changes in varying water depths, bending towards parallel to depth contours. This is governed by Snell's law.
- Shoaling causes waves to increase in height as their speed decreases in shallower water, to conserve shoreward energy flux. Wave height is related to the refraction and shoaling coefficients.
- Breaking occurs once waves steepen enough, dissipating energy. Types of breakers depend on the relative beach slope and wave steepness via the Iribarren number. Common breaking criteria include the Miche steepness limit and breaker height/depth indices.
Adequacy Check of Existing Crest Level of Sea Facing Coastal Polders by the E...IOSR Journals
The coastal embankment system has been gradually built during the last 40 years. The embankments
were originally designed to increase agricultural production by preventing salt water intrusion not to protect
against cyclonic storms. The alignment of the embankments did not consider the changing conditions in
bathymetry of the sea and thalweg migration of the rivers and therefore many embankments are located under
tidal water level and have severe toe and slope erosion problems during the monsoon season. The crest level
and embankment cross sections have not optimized the protection of hinterland and the embankment itself and
therefore the embankments typically only provide protection for the cyclones with 5-12 year return periods and
the designed crest level of the sea facing coastal polder equal to the sum of normal maximum recorded water
stage plus 1.50m. In this study to estimate the design crest level and side slope for sea facing embankment have
been established based on maximum storm surge level, wave run-up for cyclonic wave, freeboard allowing 5
l/m/s overtopping ,potential climate change impact and land subsidence. Statistical analysis of surge level and
wave run-up is carried out using Extreme Value Analysis (EVA) in MIKE Zero.
Tidal energy is produced by the surge of ocean waters during the rise and fall of tides. Tidal energy is a renewable source of energy.
During the 20th century, engineers developed ways to use tidal movement to generate electricity in areas where there is a significant tidal range—the difference in area between high tide and low tide. All methods use special generators to convert tidal energy into electricity.
Tidal energy production is still in its infancy. The amount of power produced so far has been small. There are very few commercial-sized tidal power plants operating in the world. The first was located in La Rance, France. The largest facility is the Sihwa Lake Tidal Power Station in South Korea. The United States has no tidal plants and only a few sites where tidal energy could be produced at a reasonable price. China, France, England, Canada, and Russia have much more potential to use this type of energy.
In the United States, there are legal concerns about underwater land ownership and environmental impact. Investors are not enthusiastic about tidal energy because there is not a strong guarantee that it will make money or benefit consumers. Engineers are working to improve the technology of tidal energy generators to increase the amount of energy they produce, to decrease their impact on the environment, and to find a way to earn a profit for energy companies.
Tidal Energy Generators
There are currently three different ways to get tidal energy: tidal streams, barrages, and tidal lagoons.
For most tidal energy generators, turbines are placed in tidal streams. A tidal stream is a fast-flowing body of water created by tides. A turbine is a machine that takes energy from a flow of fluid. That fluid can be air (wind) or liquid (water). Because water is much more dense than air, tidal energy is more powerful than wind energy. Unlike wind, tides are predictable and stable. Where tidal generators are used, they produce a steady, reliable stream of electricity.
Placing turbines in tidal streams is complex, because the machines are large and disrupt the tide they are trying to harness. The environmental impact could be severe, depending on the size of the turbine and the site of the tidal stream. Turbines are most effective in shallow water. This produces more energy and allows ships to navigate around the turbines. A tidal generator's turbine blades also turn slowly, which helps marine life avoid getting caught in the system.
The world's first tidal power station was constructed in 2007 at Strangford Lough in Northern Ireland. The turbines are placed in a narrow strait between the Strangford Lough inlet and the Irish Sea. The tide can move at 4 meters (13 feet) per second across the strait.
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DSD-INT 2017 Energy transfers and reflection of infragravity waves at a dissipative beach under extreme storm conditions - De Bakker
1. Energy transfers and reflection of
infragravity waves at a dissipative beach
under extreme storm conditions
Xavier Bertin, Anouk de Bakker, Teddy
Chataigner and Thomas Guérin
UMR 7266 LIENSs, CNRS/Université de La Rochelle, 2 rue Olympe de
Gouges, 17000 La Rochelle France
E-mail: xbertin@univ-lr.fr
2. On gently sloping beaches: generated by groups of short waves
Infragravity wave period = 20-200 s
Bound-wave mechanism
3. Study area
Semi-diurnal tides, ranging from 1.5 to 5.5 m
Wave regime dominated by Hs ~1.5 m, Tp= 8-12s, Dir = 260-290°
Winter storms can produce offshore Hs > 10 m and Tp > 20 s
4. Why are we studying this beach?
Dissipative beach, 2D-uniform Large shoreline retreat
Development of massive IG waves?
5. The field experiment in February 2017
30/01/2017 to 09/02/2017 01/02/2017 to 03/02/2017
6. XBeach simulations (Roelvink et al., 2009)
XBeach surfbeat mode used in 2DH, using a curvilinear grid with ∆x = 5-25 m
XBeach was forced by measured water levels at the ADCP and time series of
directional wave spectra computed with a regional application of WWIII
7. Very energetic offshore wave conditions
Frequency (Hz)
Wave periods (s)
Wave height (m)
Water depth (m)
Waveheight(m)
11. Can XBeach reproduce such large IG waves?
Measured Hm0 (m) Measured Hm0 (m)
ModeledHm0(m)
ModeledHm0(m)
Short waves Infragravity waves
12. Why such large IG waves?
First, very energetic incident short waves (Hm0~6 m, Tp~22 s).
Presence of a phase lag between the wave energy envelop and the bound wave.
Waterlevel(m)
13. Why such large IG waves?
XBeach captures phase lag between the wave energy envelop and the bound wave.
15. XBeachObservations
Subharmonic IG waves: interactions IG/IG?
Shift towards higher frequencies:
interactions between incident and reflected
IG waves?
Energy transfers in frequency
16. Reflection of IG waves
Strong tidal modulation of IG wave reflection, well captured by XBeach.
Strong and unexpected reflection, related to subharmonic IG waves?
17. Conclusions and perspectives:
We collected an exceptional dataset at the SW of Oléron Island,
showing some of the largest IG waves ever recorded.
Such massive IG waves are reasonably captured by XBeach, and are
related to the presence of a phase lag between the BW and the WEE
over a large distance.
Due to the development of very low frequency IG waves, the reflection
is quite high for a dissipative beach, and is tidally modulated.
Perspectives: subsequent data analysis (Radon Transform, bispectra,
etc…) and XBeach modeling to further analyse these mechanisms.
Across the surfzone, IG waves develop super- and sub-harmonics,
with an energy shift towards higher frequencies.
18. Thanks for your attention!
Xavier Bertin, Anouk de Bakker, Teddy
Chataigner et Thomas Guérin
UMR 7266 LIENSs, CNRS/Université de La Rochelle, 2 rue Olympe de
Gouges, 17000 La Rochelle France
E-mail: xbertin@univ-lr.fr