The document discusses marking out tools used in carpentry and joinery. It describes various measuring tools like folding rules, retractable tape measures, and steel rules. Marking tools are also examined, including try squares, sliding bevels, combination squares, marking gauges, and cutting gauges. The aims are to introduce learners to marking out tools, have them list three types, state how to check accuracy, and list storage methods. Steps for marking a mortice using a mortice gauge are outlined.

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Unit 115: Produce woodworking joints
Marking out tools

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Aims and objectives
Aim:
Introduce learners to marking out tools.
Objectives:
• List at least three types of marking out tools.
• State how to check for accuracy in marking out tools.
• List at least one method of storing marking out tools.

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Categories
Marking tools are grouped into the following categories:
• Measuring tools
• Marking out tools
• Cutting tools
• Dressing tools
• Drilling and boring tools
• Plumbing and levelling tools
• Clamps and holding devices

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Measuring tools
Folding rules are used in the joiner’s shop or on site.
They are:
• 1m long when unfolded
• Made of wood or plastic
• Can show both metric and imperial units

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Measuring tools
Retractable steel tape measures (spring tapes).
Available in a variety of lengths, eg 3m, 5m,15m, 25m.
Useful for setting out large areas or marking long lengths of
timber and other materials.
Have a hook at right angles at the start of the tape to hold over
the edge of the material. On better tapes, this should slide, so
that it is out of the way when not measuring from an edge.

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Measuring tools
Metal steel rules
Often referred to as bar rules.
Used for fine, accurate measurement work.
Generally 300mm or 600mm long.
Can also serve as a short straight edge for marking out.
The rule can also be used on its edge for greater accuracy.

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Try square
Tri-squares are used to mark and test angles at 90° and to
check that surfaces are at right angles to each other.
They should be regularly checked for accuracy. To do this,
place the square against any straight-edged spare timber
and mark a line at right angles. Turn the square over and
draw another line from the same point. If the tool is
accurate, the two lines will be on top of each other.

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Sliding bevel
The sliding bevel is an adjustable try square, used for
marking and testing angles other than 90°.
When in use, the blade is set at the required angle then
locked by either a thumbscrew or set screw in the stock.

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Combination square
This does the job of a try
square, mitre square and
spirit level all in one.
It is used for checking right
angles and 45° angles, and
also that items are level.
It has an adjustable blade for
drawing parallel lines.

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Set mitre
The set mitre is sometimes incorrectly known as a mitre
square (how can a mitre be square?), and can only be
used to mark 45° angles.
It is rarely purchased nowadays as the combination square
can do the job of this and a try square.

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Marking tools
Marking gauge
The marking gauge consists of a hardwood stock and
stem, a pin and thumb screw. Better quality tools have
brass inlays to reduce wear on contact surfaces. The
distance between the stock and pin can be set either using
a rule or, if being used to find the centre of a piece of
timber, by the following method:

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Marking tools
Combination gauge
A combination gauge is very similar to a mortice gauge, but
with an additional pin on the opposite side of the stem so
that it can be used as a marking gauge.

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Marking tools
Cutting gauge
A cutting gauge is the same as a marking gauge except
that instead of a pin it has a cutting knife and a wedge to
hold it in place. It is used if a parallel gauge line is required
across the grain, eg when marking out dovetails. The knife
severs the fibres of the grain leaving a clean cut. A marking
gauge would pull the fibres of the grain up, leaving an
unacceptable finish.

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Marking a mortice
Determine the position of the mortice – usually near the
centre of the timber section, but can be moved if required.
The closer to the centre the mortice is, the stronger the
joint.
On smaller stock, the mortice is usually 1/3 the thickness of
the timber, but will be dictated by the size of mortice chisel
available.
The mortice gauge will be set to the chisel size – ‘12mm’
chisels can vary in actual size and may be between 11mm
and 13mm.

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Marking a mortice

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Marking a mortice
The following step-by-step guide shows you how to find the
centre of a timber section.
Step 2: Place on the
timber and make
two holes.
Step 1: Set the mortice
gauge to the chisel
size.

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Marking a mortice
Step 3: Turn the timber
over and repeat. If the
holes fall in the same
place, the mortice will be in
the centre.
Step 4: If the holes do not
line up, adjust the gauge to
fall between the holes you
have made and the gauge
will be in the centre.

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Marking a mortice
When gauging, roll the pins into the timber at one end of
the mortice/tenon, push or pull the gauge from the other
end until the pins fall into the two holes.
This automatically stops the gauge lines from ‘overrunning’
the joint, damaging the inside face and showing after it is
assembled.

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Marking a mortice
Step 1: Mark the mortice. Always
mark out from the face.
Step 2: Make a hole at the end of the
line you are going to mark, then gauge
into the hole.

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Aims and objectives
Aim:
Introduce learners to marking out tools.
Objectives:
• List at least three types of marking out tools.
• State how to check for accuracy in marking out tools.
• List at least one method of storing marking out tools.

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Any questions?