6706 l2u214 powerpoint_3

Level 2 Diploma in Bench Joinery
© 2013 City and Guilds of London Institute. All rights reserved. 1 of 14
PowerPointpresentation
Tools
Unit 214: Manufacture bench joinery products

Learning outcomes
• 1.4 Identify tools and their purpose for manufacturing bench
joinery products
• 3.4 Select and maintain tools for bench joinery products
• 4.2 Select assembly tools for bench joinery products

Objectives
The following slides cover planes and chisels used in bench joinery.
There is a section on planning face side and edge as well as
sharpening and different types of sharpening stones.
Over the next few slides we will be seeing, identifying and discussing
the tools needed for Bench joinery
We will further discuss the maintenance and sharpening of those tools.
And the tools required to assemble bench joinery products

Which Tools and Why?
Hand Planes 1,2,3,4,4 ½,
Smoothing 5, 5 ½ ,6,7,8.
No 1, 5” ½ Long No 1 Blade No 3, 8” long No 4, 9” long No 4 ½ 10” long
No 5 Jack 14” long No 5 ¼ Junior jack / Jack 11 ½” long No 6 Fore 18” long
No 7 Jointer 22” long
No 8 Try / Jointer 24” long

Parts of a bench plane

Other planes you will possibly have to use
Block plane Plough plane Spokeshave
Compass plane
Bull nose plane Side rebate plane

Planing sawn timber process
Step 1
Look at the timber and select the face most
free from defects and place this face up in
the vice. A jack plane is used to remove
saw marks and produce a clean flat face.
This is checked with the edge of the plane,
or straight edge, as shown.

Step 2
Use winding sticks to ensure the
timber face is not twisted. Plane
diagonally to remove the high spots
if required followed by a few more
shavings taken parallel to the edge
of the timber.

Step 3
Once this is complete use a
standard reference mark to show
the face (this should point to the
best edge and is known as the face
mark).

Step 4
Place the timber in the vice with the planed
edge facing out and the best edge pointing up.
Plane the edge until it is straight and square to
the face, which is checked using a straight
edge and try square.

Step 5
When correct, apply the remaining reference
mark (known as the face edge mark).

Step 6
Next, the timber is gauged to
width (94mm) using a marking
gauge. Place timber in vice and
plane down to the gauge line. Be
careful to check the timber on all
faces to ensure that the gauge
line is being kept to.

Step 7
Lastly, gauge timber to thickness
(32mm), place in vice and plane
down to gauge line.

Chisels you will come across and use
Bevelled Edge
Sizes, ⅛ ¼, ⅜,½,⅝,¾,⅞,1”, 1¼”, 1½”, 1¾” 2”
Mortice, ⅛ ¼, ⅜,½,⅝,¾,⅞,1”
Firmer / Registered ⅛ ¼,⅜,½,⅝,¾,⅞,1”1¼”

Specialist Chisels you will come across
Internal gouge
Spoon
Carving chisel
Wood turning

Chisels
Chisels have two main uses:
• Cutting and shaping timber when a plane can’t be used
• Cutting joints
There are lots of types of chisels available, each designed to be used for a
specific purpose. Chisels are measured by the width of the blade, from 2mm up
to 50mm. The most popular sizes are between 3mm and 25mm.
Chisel handles can be wooden or plastic and can be attached to the blade in a
number of ways included the tapered square tang, socket and circular section
tang. Most modern chisels have strong plastic handles, but hand chisels used
for paring usually have boxwood or ash handles.

Bevel edge chisels
• Back of blade is bevelled for cutting in acute corners
• Lightweight and suitable for paring
• Can have wooden or plastic handles
• Take care if using with a mallet to avoid breaking the blade.

Firmer chisel square edge
• Used for general bench and site work
• Stronger blade than bevel edge chisel
• Used for paring or cutting joints
• Can withstand light blows from a mallet, but be careful
• Wooden handles may split due to repeated blows from a mallet
• Grinding angle is 25°and sharpening angle is 30°
• Front edge should always be straight and square to the blade

Registered chisel
• The registered chisel is another version of the firmer chisel
• The blade is thicker than that of a firmer chisel
• Often has a ferrule at both ends of the handle to make it stronger
• Ideal for use with a mallet
• Some registered chisels have a leather washer fitted to absorb
blows from a mallet.

Gouge
• A gouge is a chisel with a curved cutting edge
• Used to cut contoured or curved work
• The two main types of gouge are the firmer gouge (out canelled),
and the scribing gouge (in canelled)
• Firmer gouges are ground on the outside and are used for
scooping out, it is sometimes called a carving gouge
• Scribing gouges are ground on the inside and are used for contour
work, where hollow or concave curves are needed. It can be used to
fit and scribe joints of moulded timber in doors and windwos
Scribing gougeFirmer gouge

Mortice chisel
• Used for cutting mortices or slots which form part of a joint
• Strong, to withstand heavy mallet blows
• Blade thickness prevents twisting in the mortice or slot
• Can have a plastic or wooden handles and sometimes a leather
washer is included to absorb the mallet strike

Sharpening gouges
• The curved blades of gouges means they are difficult to grind and
sharpen
• Firmer gouges should be ground on a flat-faced grindstone using a
rocking motion, to snsure the outside edge is ground evenly
• Scribing gouges are sharpened using a conical grinding stone.
• Both gouges can be sharpened with a slip stone.
Sharpening the inside edge of a scribing
gouge

Sharpening plane and chisels
• There are two distinct angles to be used when sharpening a plane
blade
• The grinding angle is 25°and will form the basis for a sharp edge
• The honing angle is 30°and is used on the tip of the blade to give a
sharp edge.

Types of sharpening stone
Oil stone
Diamond stone
Slip stone

Any questions?

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