WOOD ENGINEERING.pptx

WHATISCARPENTRY:-
It is basically the trade deals with cutting, shaping
and installation of wood(specially timber) for building
and making different outfits.

CARPENTRYTOOLS
CARPENTRY
TOOLS
3. PLAING
TOOLS
2.CUTTING
TOOLS
1.MEASURING
AND MARKING
TOOLS
6.HOLDING &
MISCELLNEOUS
TOOLS
5.STRICKING
TOOLS
4. DRILLING &
BORING TOOLS

MEASURING AND
MRKING TOOLS
RULES
CARPENTER
PENCILE
STRAIGHT EDGE
TRY SQURE
MITRE SQUARE
BEVEL SQUARE
COMBINATION
SQUARE
MARKING KNIFE
GAUGES
WING COMPASS
TRAMMEL
DIVIDER
CALIPERS
SPIRIT LEVEL &
PLUMB BOB

rules
The rule or tape is used for measuring where accuracy is not an extremely critical
factor. They can be rigid or flexible, come in various lengths, and can be made of
wood, metal, cloth, fiberglass
A rule, is an instrument used in geometry, technical drawing and
engineering/building to measure distances and/or to rule straight lines.
Considerable frustration and additional expense can be avoided by checking for a
second time that the required measurement is accurately marked.
Rules may be flexible or nonflexible, but the thinner the rule, the easier it is to
measure accurately because the division marks are closer to the work.
The rule can also be used as a straight edge.

1.Put the rule flat on object and read the measurement from the rule.
2.Keep the rule at a right angle to the object.
3.Read the measurement from directly above the rule.

Carpentry
pencil :-
.
A carpenter pencil is a pencil that has a body with a rectangular or elliptical cross-
section to prevent it from rolling away. Carpenter pencils are easier to grip than
standard pencils, because they have a larger surface area. The non-round core allows
thick or thin lines to be drawn by rotating the pencil

TRY SQUARE:-
A try square is a woodworking or a metalworking tool used for marking and measuring
a piece of wood. The square refers to the tool's primary use of measuring the accuracy of
a right angle (90 degrees); to try a surface is to check its straightness or correspondence to an
adjoining surface. "Try square" is so called because it is used to "try" the squareness.
A piece of wood that is rectangular, flat, and has all edges (faces, sides, and ends) 90 degrees
is called four square. A board is often milled four square in preparation for using it in building
furniture. A traditional try square has a broad blade made of steel that is riveted to a wooden
handle or "stock". The inside of the wooden stock usually has a brass strip fixed to it to
reduce wear. Some blades also have graduations for measurement. Modern try squares may
be all-metal, with stocks that are either die-cast or extruded.

Miter square :-
An instrument with straight edges that are set at a 45° angle or that are adjustable,
used for marking the angles of a miter joint.

Bevel square:-
A sliding T bevel, also known as a bevel gauge or false square
is an adjustable gauge for setting and transferring angles.
The handle is usually made of wood or plastic and is
connected to a metal blade with a thumbscrew or wing nut.
The blade pivots and can be locked at any angle by loosening
or tightening the thumbscrew.
The bevel can be used to duplicate an existing angle, or set
to a desired angle by using it with any number of other
measuring tools (such as a protractor, or framing square).

COMBINATIONSQUARE:-
Measuring angles — A combination square can reliably measure 90° and 45° angles. The 45° angle is
used commonly in creating miter joints.
Determining flatness — When working with wood the first step is to designate a reference surface on
a board which is known as the face side. The rest of the workpiece is measured from the face side.
Measuring the center of a circular bar or dowel. The rule is assembled through the center of the
center square, the two cast iron legs of the center square are then placed against the outside of the
bar (dowel) allowing a center line to be scribed alongside the ruler. Perform this action at two
locations and the intersecting lines will approximate the center of the bar (dowel).
Protractor head allows angles to be set and measured between the base and ruler.
A rudimentary level for approximating level surfaces is incorporated in the protractor and also the 45°
holder.
By moving and setting the head, it can be used as a depth gauge or to transfer dimensions.
Marking the work surface; with the included Scribe Point stored in a drilled hole in the Square Base.
It is used to find the center of the round jobs.
In woodworking, the starting raw material is neither flat nor square, however, the end product such
as a table must be flat and have corners and legs which are square.
In metalworking, it is useful for a wide variety of layout and setup tasks. When used correctly, a fairly
high degree of precision can be achieved. One use would be setting large items at the required angle
in machine vises, where the long reach of the rule and firm, heavy base aid the process.

MARKING KNIFE:-
A marking knife (striking knife) is a woodworking layout tool.
It is used to scribe a line to be followed by a hand
saw or chisel when making woodworking joints and other
operations.
Marking knives have a steel blade which is sharpened to a
knife edge, but only on one side of the blade - the other side
of the blade is kept straight so as to follow a ruler or straight-
edge. The purpose of the knife edge is to sever fibres as the
marking knife is drawn over them.
This produces a very accurate line which aids in making
accurate cuts with the saw or chisel. The blade is of tool
steel with a hardwood or plastic handle.
These instruments are generally used when laying out across
the grain. They are avoided when laying out with the grain as
the blade tends to follow the fibres, resulting in inaccurate
lines. The scratch awl is preferred for long grain layout.[1]

GAUGES :-
measuring gauges:-
Gauges are used to mark lines parallel to the edge of a piece of wood.
*It consist of a small stem sliding in a stock.
*The stem carries one or more steel marking points or cutting knife.
*The stock is set to be in a desire distance from the steel point and fixed by the
thumb screw.
GAUGE
CUTTING GAUGE
MARKING GAUGE
MORTISE GAUGE
MARKING GAUGES

WINGCOMPASS:-
Wing Compass are composed of two
finely pointed steel legs which are set
to the desired position & held by a set
screw and quadrant.
They are specially used when stepping
off a numbers of equal spaces,
marking of circle and arcs.
Also used when scribing parallel lines
to straight or curved work.

Trammel:-
The trammel is a form of beam compass, with a wooden beam to take in work that is
beyond the scope of compass.

Divider:-
Divider are the tool which both and are sharpened in niddle point fashion for dividing
out centres.
It’s a type of indirect measuring instrument.

CALIPER:-
Calipers are used for measuring outside and inside diameter etc., especially
where the sectional measurements can’t be taken.

CUTTING TOOLS
SAWS
RIP SAW
BOW SAW
COPING SAW
COMPASS SAW
PAD OR KEYHOLE
SAW
CROSS CUT SAW
PANEL SAW
TENON OR BACK
SAW
DOVETAIL SAW
CHISELS
FIRMER CHISELS
BEVEL EDGE
FIRMER CHISELS
PARING CHISELS
MORTISE CHISELS
GOUGES
FIRMER GOUGES
SCRIBING
GOUGES

SAWS:-
A saw is a hand tool used to cut pieces of material
into different shapes.
It is powered solely by human effort and does not
require batteries or an electrical power supply.
There are many different types of saw. Each have
their own particular set of characteristics

TENON(or)BACKSAW:-
THESE TYPE OF SAWS HAVE GENERALLY PEGGED TEETH SAW IN NATURE.

DOVETAILSAW:-
Dovetail saws are very similar to tenon saws, except that they tend to have a thinner
blade with more teeth per inch.
Application
Dovetail saws are used for applications that require small, very precise cuts or
when an extremely neat finish is required

BOWSAW:-
A bow saw is characterised by a bow-shaped frame and a long straight blade.
Because of the hollow metal frame, bow saws tend to be reasonably lightweight.
Application
Bow saws are designed for cutting green wood such as tree branches and shrubs, or sawing logs to size.
They are most commonly used for applications where speed is more important than a neat finish.
When cutting tree branches, you should ensure that there is sufficient room around the branch you want to cut, to allow for the relatively large frame of
the bow saw.
Characteristics
Blade
A bow saw has a long straight blade which can be removed from the frame. It is designed to cut quickly and roughly through tree branches and shrubs.
There are two types of blade found on bow saws:
1. Peg tooth blades
A peg tooth blade is designed to cut dry, hard wood as opposed to wet wood.
The teeth on a peg tooth blade are triangular, and arranged in groups of 3, with a larger gap between each group.
2. Peg & raker tooth blades
A peg and raker tooth blade is designed to cut through wet wood as opposed to dry wood.
This type of blade has groups of 4 triangular teeth followed by 1 ‘raker’ tooth which looks like a regular tooth split in two and splayed outwards.
The triangular-shaped teeth slice through the wood and the ‘rakers’ as they are known, chip the wood out.
When sawing through wet or green wood, the chippings can clog up the saw’s teeth. A peg and raker tooth blade has larger, deeper gullets on either side of
the rakers which carry the waste wood out of the cut efficiently.
Cutting stroke
The teeth on a bow saw blade are not all angled in one direction like on some other types of saws. This is because a bow saw is designed to cut on the push
and pull stroke.
Please note:How this is done mayvary depending on themake and model. Onemethodis shown below:
TeethPer Inch (TPI)
Peg tooth blades tendtohave 6 to8 teethper inch.
Peg and rakerblades tendtohave 4 to 6teethper inch.

COMPASSSAW
A compass saw (also called a keyhole saw) has a long tapered blade and a curved handle.

PLANES
JACK PLANE
ROUTER
SPOKESHAVE
PLOUGH
PLANE
REBATE
PLANE
SMOOTHING
PLANE
TRYING
PLANE

A hand plane is a tool for shaping wood using muscle power to force the cutting blade over
the wood surface. Some rotary power planers are motorized power tools used for the same
types of larger tasks, but are unsuitable for fine scale planing where a miniature hand plane is
used.
When powered by electricity to the breadth of a board or panel, the tool may be called a
thickness planer or planer which are designed to shape, flatten, and finish larger boards or
surfaces.
Generally all planes are used to flatten, reduce the thickness of, and impart a smooth surface
to a rough piece of lumber or timber. Planing is also used to produce horizontal, vertical, or
inclined flat surfaces on workpieces usually too large for shaping, where the integrity of the
whole requires the same smooth surface. Special types of planes are designed to cut joints or
decorative mouldings.
Hand planes are generally the combination of a cutting edge, such as a sharpened metal
plate, attached to a firm body, that when moved over a wood surface, take up relatively
uniform shavings, by nature of the body riding on the 'high spots' in the wood, and also by
providing a relatively constant angle to the cutting edge, render the planed surface very
smooth. A cutter which extends below the bottom surface, or sole, of the plane slices off
shavings of wood.
A large, flat sole on a plane guides the cutter to remove only the highest parts of an
imperfect surface, until, after several passes, the surface is flat and smooth. When used for
flattening, bench planes with longer soles are preferred for boards with longer longitudinal
dimensions.
A longer sole registers against a greater portion of the board's face or edge surface which
leads to a more consistently flat surface or straighter edge.
Conversely, using a smaller plane allows for more localized low or high spots to remain.

JACK PLANES
These “jack of all trades” owe their nickname to their general-purpose utility.
Also called fore planes, Jack Planes often are used to flatten rough sock and
bring it closer to final size. But they also can be useful for smoothing and
jointing, depending on the size of the workpiece.
The No. 5 Jack Plane is 2-1⁄2" wide and 14" long, with a 2" wide blade. The
No. 5-1⁄2 Jack Plane is 15" long and 3" wide, with a 2-3⁄8" wide blade and a
bit more heft. The blade is set with the bevel facing down.
The Low Angle Jack Plane is a hybrid design that is lighter than a conventional
bench plane, easier to set up and easier to push. There’s no chip breaker, and
the hefty blade is set bevel-up at 12°, providing maximum support of the
cutting edge and a low angle of attack for a shearing cut and less chatter on
difficult grain. The mouth opening is easy to adjust.

SMOOTHING PLANES
Smoothing planes are relatively short and wide and are ideal for
smoothing the wood for final finishing – hence the name. Often
the last planes used on a wood surface, they are capable of
producing a finish that equals or surpasses that left by
sandpaper. They also work well for trimming parts.
The No. 4 Smoothing Plane is arguably the most commonly
used bench plane and a good starter plane for those new to
woodworking. With a 2" wide blade, it is heavy enough to
produce a smooth cut but not so heavy that it is tiring to use.
The No. 4-1⁄2 Smoothing Plane is slightly longer and wider. Its
wider blade allows the user to plane a surface with fewer cuts,
and its slightly greater heft helps keep the cut smooth.

TRYING PLANES:-
The long sole of the No. 7
long – can span high spots on uneven stock,
allowing it to trim off the peaks with progressive cuts to
gradually flatten the edges of a workpiece. Also are known
as try planes, jointing planes are a specialized tool geared
toward woodworkers who mill a fair amount of stock by
hand.
In practice, any bench plane can be used to joint an edge
straight so long as the board is no more than three times the
length of the sole.

REBATE PLANES:-
The rebate plane is one of a group of planes, including the shoulder plane,
bullnose plane and carriage makers plane, in which the blade protrudes by a
very small amount - usually less than half a millimetre - from the sides of the
plane body on both sides. The blade is very slightly wider than the body of the
plane. The reason for the slight protrusion of the blade is so that the plane body
does not bind on the side of the cut, which would result in the side wall of the
rabbet not being perpendicular to the bottom.
Rebate planes are intended for long grain cutting and are generally set up to
remove large amounts of material quickly. The mouth is set quite coarsely to
allow large chips to be removed.
There are a few variations of this plane, including the duplex rebate plane,
which has two locations for the blade: one in the middle of the body for normal
cutting and one at the front to allow cutting into corners. In the latter mode,
the duplex rebate plane is similar to a bullnose plane.
The rebate plane commonly has a depth stop and a fence, which allows the
width and depth of the rabbet to be gauged. They also are commonly equipped
with a spur, which is designed to score the wood as the rabbet is cut, giving a
cleaner corner. This is particularly valuable when working across the grain.

This Veritas small plow plane is ideal for quickly cutting grooves and rabbets, such as on
drawer and box bottoms and cabinet backs, and in frame and panel construction.
The 168 mm (6-5/8 inch) long fence registers solidly to the workpiece and is through-
drilled to accommodate the addition of a wooden fence extension. The fence can be
recessed to allow blade to cut rabbets. An excellent (and quieter) alternative for work
often performed with a router.
Comes with 1/4 inch (6.35 mm) A2 steel blade!

SPOKESHAVES
Spokeshaves are ideal for shaping curved sections of wheel
spokes, chair spindles, cabriole legs, canoe paddles and
more. They're available with a flat face (for cutting outside
curves) or with a curved face (for shaping inside curves).
Honing typically is required before use, and the
spokeshaves have thumbscrews for adjusting the cutter.

ROUTER PLANE
A router plane is a plane used for smoothing out sunken
panels, and more generally for all depressions below the
general surface of the pattern.
It planes the bottoms of recesses to a uniform depth and can
work into corners that otherwise can only be reached with a
chisel.
Nowadays, it is largely supplanted by the electrical router
and shaper, but retains limited application.

STRIKING
TOOLS
BALL-PIN
HAMMER
MALLET
HAMMER
CLAW HAMMER
WARRINGTON
HAMMER

STRICKING TOOLS:-
A striking tool is a very basic hand tool consisting of a weighted head attached to a handle.
In certain instances, a striking tool is the only tool required. However, in most forcible entry situations, the striking tool is used in
conjunction with another tool to effect entry. As common as they are, striking tools are dangerous when improperly used, carried, or
maintained. Striking tools can crush fingers, toes, and other body parts. Improperly maintained striking surfaces may cause chips or
splinters of metal to fly into the air. Proper eye protection must be used when using striking tools

BALL PEEN HAMMER
A ball-peen (also spelled ball-pein) hammer, also known as a machinist's hammer, is a type of peening hammer used in
metalworking. It is distinguished from a cross-peen hammer, diagonal-peen hammer, point-peen hammer, or chisel-peen
hammer by having a hemispherical head. It is commonly used as a tool for metalworking.
USES
Though the process of peening (surface hardening by impact) has become rarer in metal fabrication, the ball-peen
hammer remains useful for many tasks, such as striking punches and chisels (usually performed with the flat face of the
hammer). The peening face is useful for rounding off edges of metal pins and fasteners, such as rivets. The ball face of
the hammer can also be used to make gaskets for mating surfaces. A suitable gasket material is held over the surface
where a corresponding gasket is desired, and the operator will lightly tap around the edges of the mating surface to
perforate the gasket material.
Variants include the straight-peen, diagonal-peen, and cross-peen hammer. These hammers have a wedge-shaped head
instead of a ball-shaped head. This wedge shape spreads the metal perpendicular to the edge of the head. The straight-
peen hammer has the wedge oriented parallel to the hammer's handle, while the cross-peen hammer's wedge is oriented
perpendicular. The diagonal-peen hammer's head, as the name implies, is at a 45° angle from the handle. They are
commonly used by blacksmiths during the forging process to deliver blows for forging or to strike other forging tools.
MATERIAL:-
Ball-peen hammer heads are typically made of heat treated forged high-carbon steel or alloy steel; it is harder than the
face of a claw hammer. Softer brass heads are sometimes used.
Related soft-faced hammers have heads faced with materials such as brass, lead, tightly wound rawhide, or plastic,
although these faces are usually flat, not in a ball or wedge peen shape. These hammers usually have replaceable heads or
faces, because they will deform, wear out, or break over time. They are used to prevent damage to a struck surface, and
are graded by the weight of the head and by hardness of the striking face.

Warrington hammer:-
A Warrington hammer is made specifically for cabinetmaking. The cross peen is
used to start brads or finishing nails without the risk of damage to fingers. The
round head, with the slightly belled face, lets you drive nails flush without marring
surrounding wood.

claw hammer
A claw hammer is a tool primarily used for driving nails into, or pulling nails from, some other object.
Generally, a claw hammer is associated with woodworking but is not limited to use with wood products.
It is not suitable for heavy hammering on metal surfaces (such as in machining work), as the steel of its
head is somewhat brittle; the ball-peen hammer is more suitable for such metalwork.
Types
Classic Estwing claw hammer with leather-wrapped handle
Claw hammers can be constructed many ways but generally come in one of two forms. The first, and most
popular, type of hammer is the two piece hammer. This hammer is constructed from a forged steel head with a
hole for fixing a handle. One end is made to fit the hole in the hammer head, then a steel wedge is driven into
the wood which forces it to expand and secure the hammer head to the handle. Other handle materials include
glass fiber and even carbon fiber.
Another type of claw hammer is single-piece forged heat-treated steel where the head and handle are integral.
These hammers often have polymer grips to add to their ergonomics and decrease vibrations when the hammer
is used.
Another type of claw hammer is the framing hammer. This is an oversized claw hammer used in framing
carpentry. The larger and heavier head can decrease the number of blows required to fully insert the nail.
Framing hammers commonly have a "checkered" face, which reduces skip-off of the head if the blow is not
precisely struck on the nail. The slight indentations left on the wood by the checkered face are considered
unimportant in rough carpentry. Framing hammers also have a much straighter claw than regular claw hammers,
as the claw is designed more for prying nailed boards apart, rather than removing nails (though its claw can also
be used in that capacity).

MALLET HAMMER
A mallet is a kind of hammer, often made of rubber or sometimes wood, that is
smaller than a maul or beetle, and usually has a relatively large head. The term
is descriptive of the overall size and proportions of the tool, and not the
materials it may be made of, though most mallets have striking faces that are
softer than steel.
Mallets are used in various industries, such as upholstery work, and a variety of
other general purposes. It is a tool of preference for wood workers using chisels
with plastic, metal, or wooden handles, as they give a softened strike with a
positive drive. It is the most commonly used mallet.
Wooden mallets are usually used in carpentry to knock wooden pieces
together, or to drive dowels or chisels. A wooden mallet will not deform the
striking end of a metal tool, as most metal hammers would. It is also used to
reduce the force driving the cutting edge of a chisel, giving better control.
Hardwood mallets are also used to knock in cricket bats.

HOLDING
TOOLS
BENCH
VICE
SASH
CLAMP
HAND
SCREW
G-CLAMP
BENCH
HOLD
FAST
BENCH
STOP

HOLDING TOOLS:-
A holding device consisting of adjustable jaws that center a workpiece in a lathe or
center a tool in a drill. clamp, clinch. a device (generally used by carpenters) that
holds things firmly together. holder. a holding device.

1. A metal-jaw vise is ready to go right out of the
box. Add wood cheeks, bolt it to your bench and
you’re ready to clamp.
2. A wood-jaw vise requires assembly. Make your
own jaws and turn a handle of any length (or buy
one).The front of the bench doubles as the upper half
of the rear jaw.
3. Hold a board on top of the bench with a vise dog.
All metal-jaw vises come with dogs. Make your own
dog hole in a wood-jaw vise.
The Wilton Vise
The Wilton Vise
● Pivoting Jaw. It’s perfect for holding tapered work. Raise up
the pivoting jaw to make a huge dog. Remove a pin, slide
off the jaw and you’ve got a standard vise.
● U-Channel Guide Bar. You can place your workpiece very
close to the screw, minimizing side-to-side racking.
The channel also protects the screw from

SASH CLAMP
Sash clamps are used to clamp work together when it is glued.
They vary in size and are normally used in pairs. The lengths are
normally from 460mm to 1370mm. The bar is made from cold
drawn mild steel and the head and slides made from malleable
iron.
This clamp is used when working on large projects such as table tops,
doors, cabinets, or sash windows. Generally, more than one has to be
used at a time to ensure that there is a strong grip on the project.
They have a long flat bar that is very heavy and a fixed jaw attached
to it. You can adjust this fixed jaw with a screw.
Additionally, they have a sliding jaw that can be moved along the
length of the clamp and then locked into position to hold the
materials in place.
They’re great for clamping together large projects and allowing the
glue to dry tight. They are a longer, more specialized form of the bar
clamp.
http://www.technologystudent.com/equip1/sash1.htm

HAND SCREW
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vBv9Q6dZzb0
A hand screw clamp is a large woodworking clamp which differs from
other types because it is mostly made out of wood, rather than metal.
Wood is a much softer material than metal, particularly iron and steel. Due
to this, the clamp is typically used for applications which involve clamping
wood, as there is less chance of the jaws marring or damaging the surface
of the workpiece.

G-CLAMP
A C-clamp or G-clamp is a type of clamp device typically used to hold a wood or metal workpiece, and often used
in, but are not limited to, carpentry and welding. Often believed that these clamps are called "C" clamps because
of their C-shaped frame, or also often called C-clamps or G-clamps because including the screw part they are
shaped like a lowercase letter g, but in fact they were originally called a carriage makers clamp, or Carriage Clamp.
* G-clamps are typically made of steel or cast iron, though smaller clamps may be made of pot metal.
A G-clamp is used by means of turning the screw through the bottom of the frame until the desired state of pressure
or release is reached. In the case that the clamp is being tightened, this is when the objects being secured are
satisfactorily secured between the flat end of the screw and the flat end of the frame. If the clamp is being loosened,
this is when a sufficient amount of force is released to allow the secured objects to be moved.
Woodworking
While a G-clamp is a useful tool for woodworking, special care should be taken when working with any woods. The
flat gripping edges of the frame, generally no larger than half an inch or a centimetre (depending on the size of the
clamp) can cause indentations and marring of the surfaces being clamped. This can be avoided by buffering between
the clamp and the timber using two pieces of scrap wood.
As each piece of scrap wood is directly in contact with the flat edges of the frame and with the items being clamped,
this allows the scrap wood to receive the damage from the clamping, while dispersing the clamping force across the
piece of scrap wood into the clamped objects. Deep-throated clamps are also available and provide greater reach for
smaller jobs.

HOLD FAST
A hold fast is an accessory used on a woodworking workbench and in blacksmithing to fix a
workpiece to the top or side of the bench while it is being worked.
A hold fast is shaped like a shepherd's hook. In use, the shank fits loosely into a hole in the top or
side of the bench and the tip of the hook is pressed against the work. The hold fast is set by
rapping the top with a mallet, which causes the shaft to wedge against the sides of the hole. It is
released by hitting the back side.
While "artisan" hold fasts continue to be made as steel castings, or forgings, modern hold fasts
are made from round mild steel bar stock using highly automated cold-working machines.
Gramercy Tools markets such hold fasts, made from cold-rolled bar stock which is slightly under
3/4" (19.05mm) dia., usually 23/32" (18.25mm), for use in the now customary 3/4" dia. bench
hold fast holes.

BENCH STOP:-
A bench hook is a workbench accessory used in
woodworking, and its purpose is to provide a stop
against which the piece of wood being worked can
be firmly held, without having to use the vice, this
saves time.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KmO6orClNtY

Drilling holes requires a tool to make the hole, called a "bit," and a tool to "force" the bit into or
through the wood. Many projects can be accomplished with bits that range in size from 1/16 inch
to ½ inch in diameter. They can be purchased separately or in sets. Larger diameter bits are also
available.
Techniques for Drilling Holes
When drilling a hole using a hand or power drill, it can be tricky to drill the hole at a right angle to the work. Drills often
have a level incorporated into the drill housing, but usually this requires good vision to read.
There are, however, several techniques that persons with low vision or no vision use which can make drilling quite
accurate. These techniques include:
Drill guides in a range of diameters are available from hardware stores or building supply centers. Placing the guide on
the surface of the work to be drilled and inserting the bit through the guide makes it possible to drill a hole straight into
the work.
If you have access to a drill press, you can make a set of drill guides yourself by drilling holes of different diameters into
small blocks of wood. These work just like the drill guides described above. If you don't have access to a drill press, you
might ask a sighted friend to make drill guides using a portable drill with a built-in level.
Tip:Over time, the guide hole in the wooden guide may become slightly enlarged, which may make it a bit more difficult
to position the drill at exactly a 90-degree angle.
Remove a square or rectangle of wood from a board, creating a right angle; then place the bit into the corner to help
align the bit.
Place a large-headed nail with the head down on the surface of the board, and align the bit with the nail by touch.
Use an empty spool of thread or sewing machine bobbin (pictured below). Mark the spot by making a "start hole" with
an awl, nail, or ice pick. Place the drill bit through the spool or bobbin and align the point of the bit with the start hole
you've created. With the drill in the "off" position, place the flat end of the spool or bobbin firmly against the surface
and hold it in place with pliers. Please note: Do not use your hands to hold the spool in place. With the drill and spool in
this position, start the drill – and your hole will be straight/perpendicular with the surface.
DRILLING:
Wooden thread spool with a drill bit
inserted
through the center hole in the spoo

BELL HANGER DRILL BIT
Common tools of the trade for electricians and cable installers, bell
hanger drill bits are twist drills that feature a transverse hole drilled
through the bit near the tip that enables the pulling of wire through
walls, ceilings and floors.
After penetrating the wall, a wire can be threaded through the hole
and pulled through the hole as the bit is withdrawn.
The wire in turn pulls a cable back through the wall.
Manufactured in the USA by Norseman Drill and Tool, bell hanger
bits, also known as installer bits or fishing bits, perform well in wood,
metal lathe, plaster and wallboard drilling applications.
The fluted design facilitates speedy chip removal.
With diameters ranging from 1/4" to 1/2" and overall lengths
spanning 12" to 48", AFT has got the right drill for your needs

Forstner bits are guided by the wide outside rim of the bit, unlike most drill
bits, which are guided by the tip. Because of that, they can be used along with a
drill press to drill angled holes, holes that partially overlap, and holes on the edge
of the material.
https://youtu.be/vekbloITIx4
The bit was revolutionary as it did not feature the lead screw (which Forstner
called the "gimlet-point") or the cutting lips of more conventional wood
boring bits,[clarify] and thus proved especially useful to gunsmiths and high-
end woodworkers.
The bit was unsurpassed in drilling a smooth-sided hole with a flat bottom.
It was also better than Russell Jennings twist bits for boring at an angle and
not following the grain of the wood.

A spade bit is a type of wood boring drill bit that was invented in 1968 by
the Irwin tools company. It is flat, with two sharp lips able to rapidly scoop
out material from a bore hole
These lips can sometimes have spurs at the edges, which cut around the
edge of the bore hole to make a cleaner cut.
Spade bits have a reputation for cutting rough, scrappy holes, and for
causing splintering when the bit enters and leaves a wooden workpiece. This
is known as tear out.
Some spade bits have been designed with holes in the body of the bit so
that they can pull electrical cables back through bore holes in walls (you
might be trying to connect an aerial to a TV, for example). Their shanks are
long enough for you to tie the cable to the bit using string or a piece of thin
wire.

The Irwin Brad Point Drill Bits are specially designed for precision wood
drilling, ideal for furniture and cabinet making.
The centre point is for easy start up and the spurred cutting head is
designed to reduce splintering and ensure smooth clean holes.
The body is fully hardened for maximum wear resistance. They also
have wide flutes which provide a fast, continuous flow of chips.

AUGER DRILLBITS
An auger is a drilling device, or drill bit, that usually includes a rotating helical screw blade called a
"flighting" to act as a screw conveyor to remove the drilled out material.
The rotation of the blade causes the material to move out of the hole being drilled.
An auger used for digging post holes is called an earth auger, handheld power earth drill, soil
auger, or mechanized post hole digger. This kind of auger can be a manually turned, handheld
device, or powered by an electric motor or internal-combustion engine, possibly attached to a
tractor (being provided with power by the tractor engine's power take-off as shown). Handheld
augers can also be used for making holes for garden planting.
Wood augers have a screw to pull them into the wood, as a gimlet has, and a cutting lip that slices
out the bottom of the hole. The auger bit, meant to be used in a brace, also has cutting spurs to
cut a clean circle deeper than where the lips scrape out the wood.
In construction, augers are used for special drilling rigs to dig holes, or augerating for deep
foundation piles. Another use is for piles forming a piling retaining wall, which can be constructed
in the same way as foundation piles.
Augers – either gas- or hand-powered – are used by ice fishermen to drill holes to fish through.
Drilling into maple trees to extract maple syrup is also carried out with the use of augers.

Brace & Bit Drill
Originally, carpenters and craftspeople drilled holes by hand using a "brace and bit."
The brace, which is approximately one foot long, has a chuck on one end to hold the
bit securely, and a knob (or grip) on the other end to enable the carpenter or
craftsperson to apply pressure to drive the bit into the wood.
The middle part of the brace is offset, enabling the operator to turn the brace and bit
around and around in a clockwise direction, thereby drilling the hole.
Brace with a knob/grip on one end
and a chuck on the other
Brace with a bit inserted into the chuck
Drilling a hole with a brace and bit

HINGE BORE DRILL BIT
The Faithfull The High Carbon Steel (HCS) Hinge Bore Bit is specially designed for
drilling blind holes when fitting concealed (blum) hinges in kitchen, bedroom and
bathroom cabinet doors.
Available in 2 sizes. Suitable for use on all natural woods and man-made materials
such as blockboard, melamine faced boards, chipboard and MDF.
High carbon steel (HCS) hinge bits are not recommended for repetitive work in
man-made boards. These bits should always be used with a stand-mounted drill.

Self-Feed Bits
1. Welded cutting edge for extreme life in tough materials, including nail-
embedded wood
2. Replaceable screw-point tip is larger and more durable and pulls bit
fast for clean, true holes*
3. 7/16" hex impact shank reduces slipping in standard chucks and is
compatible with all 7/16" impact wrench chucks
https://www.youtube.com/w
atch?v=hPbtuuvUc18

Hand-Operated Drill
The brace and bit is seldom used now, but the same concept applies to
drilling holes by hand using a hand-operated drill driver.
The drill driver has a crank, which powers a gear mechanism, which turns
the chuck and bit.
This tool is fairly inexpensive and easy to use in tight working spaces.
Hand-operated drill driver
Drilling a hole with a hand-operated drill driver

Battery-Powered Cordless Drill Driver
Drills powered by electric motors became widely used many years ago, but
they have been replaced in recent years by battery-powered cordless drill
drivers. These battery-powered devices can also be used to drive in wood
screws.
Battery-powered cordless drill
Drilling a hole with a battery-powered cordless drill

Drill Press
Some woodworkers invest in a drill press. The press can sit on a workbench or
larger models can sit on the floor.
A steel column connects the base to the top of the press where the motor
powering the chuck which holds the bit is located.
There is a geared mechanism that the operator can use to lower or raise the bit
with a lever.
The piece to be drilled rests on a table, which is attached to the vertical column.
The advantage of a drill press is that you can drill holes exactly straight or at
preset angles.
By using a fence and stop block, you can repeatedly drill a hole in exactly the
same location.

ROUTER BITS AND SHAPES CUT
BY THEM

SOMEBASICROUTERBITUSEFORMILLING

Woodturning is the craft of using the wood lathe with hand-held
tools to cut a shape that is symmetrical around the axis of rotation.
TURNING IS THE BASIC OPERATION WHERE WE GIVE
FEED ALONG THE AXIS OF THE SPINDLE
WHILE WORKPIECE IS ROTATING ABOUT SPINDLE AXIS.

BASICWOODTURNINGHAND-TOOL
(a) (b)
(c) (d)
(e)

Spindle Roughing Gouge (SRG)
A spindle roughing gouge is used for roughing out a blank that
is held between a drive center in the headstock and a live
center in the tailstock from its original square shape to a
rounded cylinder.
It can also be used for cutting shallow coves in the spindle’s
surface. The side cutting edge of a sharp SRG where those
parts of the tool are ground flat can be used almost like a
skew to create a smooth surface on the cylinder.

Spindle Gouge
A spindle gouge, sometimes called a shallow fluted gouge, is used to
cut the detail features like concave curves or coves, convex curves or
beads, and variations of these cuts.
A spindle gouge is usually ground into a shape that looks like a “lady’s
fingernail”, where the sides of the tip area are ground back.
This makes the tool more versatile. Various bevel angles are often
ground on them, but suggest using a 35° angle to start.
A detail gouge is a variation of a spindle gouge where the main
differences are a shallower flute with longer fingernail grind with a 30°
or finer bevel angle to make the tool more versatile for cutting crisp
details.
The flute has a heavier cross section to allow a longer extension over
the tool rest while cutting. Many turners feel that these two gouges are
interchangeable.

Diamond-Shaped Parting Tool
A diamond-shaped parting tool is used to cut off waste wood and
separate parts of a turning.
It is also used with outside calipers to establish diameter dimensions
on a spindle. It can be used to cut small flat areas.
The narrow side of the tool is placed on the tool rest and the cutting
edge is presented above the centerline of the piece and is levered
upward to start the cut.
It has a diamond-shaped cross section, which reduces the tendency of
the tool to bind when cutting. It’s usually about ¾" (19 mm) wide and
⅛" (3 mm) to 3/16" (5 mm) thick.

Narrow Parting Tool
A narrow parting tool is very useful for cutting apart sections of a turned
piece box when trying to match grain since the lines will be closer to
their original configuration.
It is limited to parting off small turnings because of its short blade length.
This tool is usually 1/16" (2 mm) thick and 1 ¼" (32 mm) wide and is
shaped with a 45° angle.
Care must be taken to prevent binding on the sides as a cut is being
made.

Skew
The surface of the cylinder will be smoother when a skew is used to make
the cuts rather a spindle gouge. However, there are specific cutting
techniques that must be learned in order to use a skew successfully.
A skew has two bevels and is available in various configurations. I prefer a
¾" (19 mm) wide by ¼" (6 mm) thick skew with a slightly curved cutting
edge.
this type of skew is less aggressive and cuts shallow coves on spindles a
little easier. Skews are available with a straight cutting edge if preferred.
it is a good idea to either buy a skew with the side edges round or grind the
sharp corners off to reduce the tool’s tendency to bind on the surface of
the tool rest.
Some skews have an oval cross-section that can be useful for cutting curves
but can cause difficulty when trying to get an even surface on the cylinder.
The cutting edge is usually ground at a 45° angle to the side of the tool.

StarterSetof Toolsfor Bowl/FaceplateTurning
A spindle roughing gouge must never be used for faceplate turning. Using a SRG
to rough out a bowl blank may result in a serious catch that could break the
handle tang of the tool off when the square corners of the gouges cutting edge
catch on the blank. The result could be a serious injury to the turner. It can also
break off large splinters of wood that can become dangerous spears as they fly
away from the spinning workpiece.
There are basically four tools that can be added to the starter set for a new
turner who is planning on doing bowl/faceplate turning as well as spindle turning.
These tools are:
(a) Bowl gouge – ½" (13 mm) shaft size
(b) Round-nose scraper – ¾" (19 mm) wide by ¼" (6 mm) thick
(c) Square-end scraper – ¾" (19 mm) wide by ¼" (6 mm) thick
(d) Side-radius scraper – 1" (25 mm) wide by ⅜" (10 mm) thick

Scrapers
At first it will be difficult for a new turner to prevent leaving tool marks and
rings on the bowl surfaces. Scrapers are generally used to remove these
tool marks.
Grind the bevel angle on my scrapers to about 60°. Since all scrapers
cut with a burr that is created on the cutting edge when they are
sharpened, they must be kept sharp. The burr only lasts a very short
time.
Scrapers are presented to the wood surface at just below the centerline
of the blank, with the handle held higher than the tool tip.
This creates a “reverse rake,” which produces a scraping action rather
than a cutting action. By holding the cutting edge at about a 30° angle
from the tool rest surface, slice-like shavings are created rather than
dust. This results in a very smooth cut. This technique will take a little
practice to perfect, but it is worth the effort.
Scrapers need to be quite sturdy as they will extend farther beyond the
tool rest as they are being used. I suggest they be at least ¾" (19 mm)
wide by ¼" (6 mm) thick. The tip should have a bevel angle of about 60°.

Round-Nose Scraper
The round-nose scraper is used to remove the tool marks on the inside
surface of the bowl. This scraper can also be used to remove the little nub
that often appears right at the center point of the inside of the bowl.

Side Radius Scraper
One of the most useful tools in the bowl/faceplate turning tool kit is a side-
radius scraper.
It can be very helpful for creating a smooth flowing curve on the inside
surface of the bowl from the center of the bottom to the inside edge of the rim.
This tool has to be very robust; suggest it be at least 1" (25 mm) wide by ⅜"
(10 mm) thick.
This scraper has a rounded tip that extends back along one side to allow a
longer cutting surface that yields a more even and continuous scraping cut
from the center to the rim on the inside of the bowl.

Square-End Scraper
The square-end scraper is used to remove the tool marks from the
outside surface of the bowl by using the reverse rake technique
and scraping the wood directly at a 90° angle.
The handle of the scraper will have to be continuously moved or a
flat spot will appear on the surface.

Bowl Gouge
A bowl gouge is generally used to form both the inside and the outside surfaces of a bowl or platter. It can be used to cut deeper coves when
turning spindles. The base side of the bowl blank is fastened to a faceplate with screws and the bowl surfaces are shaped with a bowl gouge. It is
important to leave enough thickness at the base to allow the removal of the wood where the screw holes were made. After the inside of the bowl is
completed and finished, it is removed from the faceplate and a scrap piece of wood is mounted to make a jam chuck onto which the bowl is
reverse-mounted with a tight fit. The bowl gouge is then use to complete the bottom and refine the base.
Suggest a ½" (13 mm) bowl gouge for this work. It has a sufficiently rigid shaft that will reduce vibration as it reaches over the tool rest into the
bottom of the bowl.
Prefer a “fingernail” grind on my bowl gouge with a bevel angle of about 60°. If the nose of the gouge is ground much shallower than that, it will be
hard to shape the bottom of the bowl without having a catch. A lot of turners have a second bowl gouge with the tip ground somewhat straighter
across with a steeper grind to allow easier access to turn the bottom of a bowl.
The decision to buy a second bowl gouge can be made later.
The bowl gouge is probably the most used tool in a turner’s tool kit. It is also the tool that has the most variations in the shape and grind
configuration of all woodturning tools.

CARPENTRYJOINTS:-
HALVING JOINTS
MORTISE AND TENON JOINTS
BRIDLE JOINTS
BUTT OR RUBBED JOINTS
DOWEL JOINTS
TOUNGE AND GROOVE JOINT
DOVETAIL JOINT

HALVINGJOINTS
A halved joint is a woodworking joint in which the two members are joined
by removing material from each at the point of intersection so that they
overlap. The halved joint is differentiated from the lap joint in that the
members are joined on edge, rather than on the flat.
The simple halved joint is created by cutting a slot in opposite edges of the
members to be joined so that they slip together.
Most commonly, the amount of material removed is equal to half the width
of the members being joined, although this depends on the relative
dimensions of the members.
This joint is relatively weak and prone to splitting, due to the lack of
shoulders which would otherwise prevent twisting.
When extra strength is required, a strengthened version of the joint is
called for. This involves a more elaborate cut out which incorporates
shoulders to prevent twisting of the joint.
Applications
•Partitions in trays and drawers
•Construction of torsion boxes
Halved joints can be cut by the following methods:
•Hand saw and chisel
•circular saw with multiple passes (depending on width and depth)
•dado set in a single pass
•electric router using a straight or rebate bit
•spindle moulder
•Laser cutter

MORTISEANDTENONJOINTS
A mortise (or mortice) and tenon joint connects two pieces of wood or of
other material. Woodworkers around the world have used it for thousands
of years to join pieces of wood, mainly when the adjoining pieces connect
at right angles.
In its most basic form, a mortise and tenon joint is both simple and strong.
There are many variations of this type of joint, but the basic mortise and
tenon comprises two components:
1.the mortise hole, and
2.the tenon tongue.
Types
Mortise
A mortise is a cavity cut into a timber to receive a tenon.
Tenon
A tenon is a projection on the end of a timber for insertion into a mortise.

WOOD ENGINEERING.pptx

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