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Knitted fabrics and their properties
- 1. Chapter 9 KnittedFabrics and Their Properties Knit fragments dating back to 250 BC ◦ Compared to 9,000 years for wovens Introduced to Europe by the Arabs ◦ Did not gain popularity until around 1,000 AD
- 2. Knitting The act ofinterlooping yarn to create fabric as opposed to weaving, which is interlacing yarns to create fabric. Loop Components Loop Appearance
- 3. Knitting Industry Two mainsegments ◦ Knitted yard goods ◦ Knitted apparel Advances in computer technology ◦ Ability to respond quickly to the rapidly changing fashion industry
- 4. Knitting Machines Two basictypes of knitting machines ◦ Flat knitting machines – Fig. 9-2 p. 140 Produce flat fabric Produce both warp and weft knits
- 5. Knitting Machines ◦ Circularknitting machines – Fig. 9-3 Predominately weft knits Produce tubular fabric Faster than flat knitting machines
- 6. Knitting Machines Seamless knittingmachine ◦ Seamless garment is made from a very special state of art tube knitting machine
- 7. Categories of Knits Twomain categories ◦ Weft knits (on left) Sometimes called filling knits ◦ Warp knits (on right)
- 8. Knit v.Woven Major differencebetween knitted and woven fabrics ◦ Knitted fabrics – interlooping yarns to create fabric ◦ Woven fabrics – interlacing yarns to create fabric
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- 10. Knit v.Woven KNITS (slide1) ◦ Cheaper to produce ◦ Require higher quality yarns ◦ Yarns must be uniform so that thin spots don’t form on the fabric ◦ Looped structure = Knit fabric is less opaque provides less cover Allows for stretch + recovery as body moves Requires thicker and/or heavier yarn to provide equal cover to that of a woven Tendency to snag /run in weft knits
- 11. Knit v.Woven KNITS (slide2) ◦ Easier / quicker to change design patterns ◦ Known for comfort and ease of fit ◦ Bulky = good insulation and warmer ◦ Wrinkle recovery superior ◦ Problem with stretching out Should be folded not hung Sagging at stress points (knees, elbows) ◦ Shrink more than wovens
- 12. Knit v.Woven WOVEN ◦ Moreexpensive to produce ◦ Can use lower-quality yarns ◦ More difficult to change pattern on loom ◦ Looms use more energy/louder than knitting machines ◦ More rigid/less able to conform to body ◦ Superior resistance to wind ◦ Can be set with sharper pleats and creases ◦ Do not stretch out/can be hung ◦ Less tendency to hang ◦ Less tendency to shrink than knits
- 13. Knitting Terminology Stitch ◦ Theloop of yarn formed by the knitting process Knit ◦ Basic knitting stitch Purl ◦ Horizontal rows Wales ◦ Loops formVertical ribs/columns – parallel to selvage Gage or Gauge ◦ the density of knitting machine needles, and the number of knitting needles per inch (approx. 2.54cm). The smaller the figure, the coarser the stitch, and vice versa
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- 15. Knitting Terminology Courses ◦ Aseries of successive loops laying crosswise in the fabric Face/Back ◦ Just like a woven fabric, there is a face and a back to the knitted fabric Cut ◦ The fineness of weft knits made on a circular knitting machine The higher the gauge or cut number, the finer the fabric
- 16. Components of KnitConstruction
- 17. Variables in KnittedConstruction A great deal of variety may be created by manipulating the following: ◦ Fiber content ◦ Yarn type and twist ◦ Fabric count ◦ Coloration ◦ Finishes
- 18. 4 stitches makeus all knit fabrics
- 19. Weft Knits ◦ Canbe made by hand knitting, or a circular or flat bed machine ◦ Made with one continuous yarn that travels around the fabric on a circular knitting machine and across the fabric on a flatbed machine. ◦ Common weft knits: jersey knits rib knits, purl knits Wales on front – vertical Courses on back - horizontal
- 20. Weft knit–vertical waleson face
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- 22. Weft Knit StitchVariations Missor Float Stitch ◦ Used to create patterns or change colors ◦ Reduce the stretch of the fabric ◦ Prone to snagging Tuck Stitch ◦ Used to create pattern and textured effects ◦ Identified by open lacy areas, bubbles, puckers ◦ Reduce the stretch of the fabric Open,Transfer or Spread Stitch ◦ Fashion marks Shaped to fit during the knitting process
- 23. Weft Knit StitchVariations Open,Transferor Spread Stitch ◦ Create texture ◦ Fashion marks Occur when transfer stitches change the number and position of the yarns Shaped to fit during the knitting process ◦ Mock-fashion marks Do not shape the garment
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- 31. CommonWeft Knits Jersey knits ◦Also called single knits ◦ Economical to produce ◦ Knit stitches on front/ Purl stitches on back Rib knits ◦ Knit and purl wales alternate across width Purl knits ◦ Alternate courses of knit and purl stitches on both sides of the fabric
- 32. Characteristics of JerseyKnits Stretch crosswise and lengthwise ◦ Stretches more in the crosswise Tend to run or ladder if stitch breaks Produced under tension ◦ Fabric less stable and curls when cut Special finishes ◦ Counteract curling and improve stability
- 33. End Uses ofJersey Knits Sheets Sweaters T-shirts Men’s underwear Dresses Hosiery
- 34. Jersey KnitVariations (pg142-143) Fleece #101 Intarsia Jacquard knits #97 Knitted terry #102 Knitted velour #111 Lisle Plaited knits Silver-pile knits
- 35. Characteristics of RibKnits Swatch #100 Reversible More elastic than jersey knits More stretch crosswise than lengthwise Edges do not curl Running and laddering still a problem More expensive to produce
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- 37. End Uses ofRib Knits Collars Necklines Cuffs Bottom edges of sweaters Knit hats Men’s hosiery
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- 39. 2x2 rib knit–faceor back
- 40. 1x1 rib knit–faceor back
- 41. Rib KnitVariations Double knits#104 & #105 ◦ Sometimes called double jerseys ◦ Thicker than jersey knits ◦ Two-way stretch ◦ Very stable – will not ladder ◦ Apparel and Upholstery used Interlock knits #103 ◦ Specialized 1x1 rib knit ◦ More stable and smoother than regular rib knits ◦ Will ladder ◦ Underwear, blouses and dresses
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- 43. Purl Knits Produced onlinks and links machines ◦ Slowest of the knitting machines ◦ More expensive Good stretch in all direction ◦ Stretches out of shape easily Crosswise stretch less than a jersey knit Thicker than jersey knits Does not curl
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- 45. End Uses forPurl Knits Infant and children’s wear Sweaters Scarves
- 46. Warp Knits –see Fig. 9-8 Second major category of knit fabrics Characterized by vertical loops More resistant to laddering than weft knits Usually done on flat knitting machine ◦ Two main types of warp knitting machine (name = machine and fabric name) Tricot #106 Raschel #107 Minor warp knit – Simplex
- 47. Characteristics of TricotKnits Good elasticity Best of warp knits Inexpensive and quick to produce Curls along crosswise edge Good air and water permeability Soft Crease resistant Good drapeability
- 48. End Uses forTricot Knits Lingerie Nightwear Blouses Dresses Used as a backing fabric in multi- component structures Limited interior uses because of high elongation
- 49. Tricot KnitVariations Brushed tricot Satintricot Tricot-net fabrics Tricot upholstery Tulle
- 50. Raschel Knits Swatch #107 Similarto Tricot Knits Greater diversity in design Differences between Raschel and Tricot Knits ◦ Raschel has: More texture Open spaces Made from heavier yarns
- 51. Diagram of SimpleRaschel Crochet Knit
- 52. Variations and EndUses of Raschel Knits Warp knitted Fine laces and nets Heavy carpets Thermal underwear with a waffle effect Power-net fabrics for swimsuits and foundations Heavy blankets May resemble hand crocheted fabrics
- 53. Weft Insertion Knits Insertionwarp knits: ◦ Extra yarns may be inserted in the warp or in the filling direction of warp yarns InlayYarns: ◦ If yarns are inserted in warp direction Power-net fabric: ◦ Raschel knit with inlaid spandex yarns.
- 54. Weft Insertion Characteristics FabricAppearance ◦ Extra set of yarns laid in ◦ Typically novelty yarns ◦ Other yarns may be laid in to add strength or stretch Help add warmth or strength Can be single or double knit May also be warp knit
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- 56. Care and Performance DimensionalStability = poor ◦ Stretch contributes to comfort but also to poor dimensional stability ◦ Prone to shrinkage, stretching, and distortion ◦ Finishes Shrinkage control Heat setting of synthetics Resin finishes Air drying and dry cleaning and help minimize shrinkage Pilling
- 57. Care and Performance Pilling ◦Made from fibers and yarns that are likely to pill – wool and synthetic fibers Snagging ◦ Looped structure of knit fabric increases the possibility that snags occur If yarn has not been broken it is possible to work back into the fabric
- 58. Handling in garmentconstruction Pattern ◦ Seam allowances vary on patterns, the 1/4" (6 mm) seam allowance is the easiest to use. Layout ◦ Knits have shading and pattern pieces should be cut in one direction and be placed with the greatest degree of stretch around the body. Marking and Cutting ◦ Use weights to hold pattern pieces in place.A rotary cutter works very well with knits, just be sure to use a matt to protect your cutting table.
- 59. Handling in garmentconstruction Lining ◦ Interfacing is used to reinforce closures, add shaping to collars, cuffs and plackets and stabilize areas such as shoulder seams and some necklines.The best interfacing is a 100% polyester fusible lightweight knit interfacing. Stitching ◦ Sew the seam using an overlock stitch.This stitch sews and overcast in one step. It is not necessary to stretch the fabric while sewing as stretch is built in. Fasteners