Knitting is the second most popular fabric formation technique where a continuous yarn is looped to form a fabric. There are two main types - weft and warp knitting. Weft knitting forms loops that run horizontally across the fabric width while warp knitting forms loops that run vertically along the fabric length. Knitting has several advantages over weaving like stretchability, softness, and moisture absorption. Pakistan's knitting exports make up a small share of the global and regional markets. The document defines various knitting terminology and examines properties and applications of knitted fabrics.

1. Lecture 7 (Knitting Introduction)

2. Knitting
o Second most popular technique
of fabric formation
o Fabric formation by inter-
looping of yarns
o Straight continuous length
of yarn is bent into loops
and
o those loops are interlooped
for fabric formation
o Continuous length of yarn is
converted vertically into
intermeshed loop either by
hand or machine
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3. Interlooping
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4. Knitting Status
o Knitted fabrics
o World Exports : US$ 33.6 billion
o Pakistan exports: US$ 35.9 million
o Pakistan Share: 0.11 %
o Knitted apparel
o World exports: US$ 237.7 billion
o Pakistan exports: US$ 2.4 billion
o Bangladesh exports: US$ 14.35 billion
o Vietnam exports: US$ 9.5 billion
o Pakistan Share: 1.01 %
o China No. 1; Bangladesh No. 2; Vietnam No. 5;
Pakistan No. 19
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5. Knitting Status of Pakistan
o 12,000 knitting machines
o The main export destinations are
o European,
o American and
o UAE markets.
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6. Major Knitting Industry
6
Interloop
Hosiery
Masood Textiles
Hasni Textiles
Globe Textiles
Three Star
Hosiery
Anwar Textiles
Leisure
Knitwear

7. Knitting Status (Imports & Exports)
7
• 2010-2011 to 2011-2012
Import of knitwear
and embroidery
machines
Export of Knitwear
(Hosiery)
14%
3%

8. Yarn Share
8
• 2010-2011 to 2011-2012
70 %
Cotton
30 %
Synthetic
Knitwear

9. Knitting Major Exports Apparel
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Major Exports
Men's &
ladies T-
shirts
Night shirts
for ladies
Men's
pyjama
Sportswear
Jogging suit
Boxer sets

10. Technical Textile (Knitting)
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11. BASIC TERMINOLOGIES
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12. Loop
o Basic unit of knitted
structure
o Three Parts
o A head (H)
o 2 side limbs or legs (L).
o A foot (F), at the base
of each leg
o Yarn passes through
the head of the loop
formed at the
previous knitting
cycle.
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13. o Open loop
o The open loop is one in
which loop forming
yarn does not cross at
bottom of loop.
o Closed loop
o In closed loop, legs of
loop cross so loop
closing takes place
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Loop Types

14. 14
Courses
• A horizontal row of loops
across the width of flat
fabric
• Series of loops, connected
horizontally (Feet to Feet)
• Courses per unit length is
course density,
• measured in cpi (course/inch)
or cpcm(course/cm)
Wales
• A vertical column of
loops along the length
of fabric
• Series of loops
intermeshing vertically
(Head to Head)
• Wales per unit length
is wale density,
• measured in
wpi(wales/inch) or
wpcm(wales/cm)

15. o Face loop
o In face loop legs of
new loop pass over
the head of old loop
o (Legs are appeared)
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New Loop
Old Loop
New Loop
Old Loop
o Back loop
o In back loop head of
old loop pass over the
legs of new loop
o (Head and Feet are
appeared)
Loop Types

16. 16
Technical Face
• The side of the
knitted fabric consist
of Face Knit Loops
Technical Back
• The side of knitted
fabric consist of
Back Knit Loops

17. o Technical Upright
o A knitted fabric is technically upright when
its courses run horizontally and its wales run
vertically,
o with the heads of the needle loops facing
towards the top of the fabric
o and the course knitted first situated at the
bottom of the fabric.
Welt
Secure edge of knitted fabric or garment made
during/after knitting process
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18. o Stitch length
o length of the yarn in the knitted loop.
o measured in millimetre
o control properties of knitted fabrics
o generally longer the stitch length, the
more open and lighter the fabric.
o Stitch density
o Total number of loops in a given area.
o Is the product of Courses and Wales per
unit length
o measured in units of loops per square
centimetre or loops per square inch.
o CPC x WPC = Loops/Sq. cm
o CPI x WPI = Loops/Sq. in
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19. Knitting
o First hand knitting machine was developed
in 5th century.
o Actual Knitting machine was made in 1589
by Willian Lee.
Needle
o Instrument used for intermeshing of loops
Gauge
o Number of needles per unit length of
knitting machine is called gauge
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20. CLASSIFICATION
On the basis of direction of movement of
yarn w.r.t to the direction of fabric
formation
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21. 21
Knitted
Fabrics
Weft Knitted
Single jersy
Double jersy
Purl
Rib
Interlock
Warp Knitted
Tricot
Milanese
Simplex
Raschel
Ketten Raschel
Corchet
Weft Insertion
warp

22. Weft Knitting
o Method of constructing the knitted fabric
where loops made from each yarn run along the
width or crosswise direction (courses) with
reference to the direction of fabric formation
during knitting, then the process of knitting is
called weft knitting
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Fabric
Formation
Yarn run in width

23. Weft knitting machine
o Flat ( gloves and fully fashioned machine )
o Circular ( socks , single and double jersey
machine)
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Circular Knitting m/c Flat Knitting m/c

24. Weft knitting machine
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Socks m/c Gloves m/c

25. Warp Knitting
o Method of constructing the knitted fabric
where loops made from each yarn run along
the length of fabric (wales), i.e. the direction
of fabric formation during knitting, the
process is called warp knitting.
o Types are
o Tricot
o Raschel
o etc
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Fabric
Formation
Yarn
run
in
length

26. Warp knitting machine
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27. Flow process
o Weft knitting
o Warp Knitting
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Weft
knitting
m/c
Yarn /
Cone
Package
Warp
knitting
m/c
Warping
/ Beam
formation
Yarn /
Cone
Package

28. WOVEN VS KNITTED
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29. 29
Weaving Knitting
Produced by interlacement of yarn Produce by interlooping of yarn
Minimum Two Sets of yarn is
required for warp and weft
Minimum one yarn is required
Sizing is required Don't require sizing
Production is lower Production is higher
Production cost is higher Production cost is less
Elasticity and stretch ability is poor Good elasticity and stretch ability
Dimensional stability is higher Dimensional stability is lower
Thick and wind resistant Cool and breathable
Holds a crease well Wrinkle resistant
More durability Less durability
Harsher Softer
less moisture absorption More moisture absorption
Less air permeability More air permeability
Lengthy processing route(singeing,
desizing, scouring , bleaching)
Less Shrinkage, Ironing is required
Short processing route( scouring,
bleaching)
More Shrinkage, Not necessary

30. Comparison of Warp and Weft Knitting
Weft Knitting Warp Knitting
Plain, Rib, Interlock and Purl Tricot, Milanese, Raschel, Simplex,
Ketten Rascehl, Crochet, Weft
insertion
Latch and Bearded Needle Compound and Bearded needle
Loops are produced along the width
of fabric
Loops are produced along the length
of fabric
Less dimensionally stable More dimensionally stable
Less speed More speed
Less wrinkle and shrinkage resistance Mores wrinkle and shrinkage
resistance
Less strength and abrasion resistance More strength and abrasion
resistance
Not necessary Each needle has its own thread
May ravel from end and easily
snagged
Do not ravel and less snagging
(Tearing)
Sweaters, T Shits, Socks, Trousers,
sports wear, Cuffs, Collars,
Waistbands
Curtains, Table Covers, Sleep
Wears, Lingerie, Geo Textiles,
Blouses, Carpets, Bandages 30

31. Warp Knitting
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• Tricot
• Raschel
• Milanese
• Simplex
• Ketten Raschel
• Crochet
Weft Insersion

32. Warp Knitting
Tricot Raschel
Compound and Bearded Needle Compound and Latch needle
Warps beams are arranged behind or
above the machine
Warps beams are arranged above
the machine
Operation can be made from front
side of machine
Operation can be made from front
and back side of machine
Finer gauge machines (7.08-15.74
N/cm)
Coarser gauge machine (2.36-12.6
N/cm)
Tricot machine use Sinker bar Raschel machine use trick plate
Angle between yarn and fabric take
up is 90 degree
Angle between yarn and fabric take
up is uo to 180 degree
Higher in speed 2800 rpm Lower in speed 1600 rpm
Continuous filament yarn is used Mostly staple yarn is used
Soft, wrinkle resistant, good
drapability
Less soft and wrinkle resistant
Machine width (201-533 cm) Machine width (191-584 cm)
One needle bar or two needle bar
Shirts, Sleep wear, Lounge wear
One needle bar or two needle bar
Veils, Laces, Nets, Carpets
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33. PROPERTIES &
APPLICATIONS
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34. Properties
o Knitted Fabric are popular for their
o Shape fitting property,
o Soft handle,
o Bulkier nature and
o High extension at low tension.
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35. 35
Clothing’s
• Vests , Sweaters and pullover Cardigan (we)
• Gloves(we), Socks(we), Tights(wa,we)
• Seamless garments (wa, we)
• Undergarments (Wa,we)
Home and furnishing
• Curtain(wa)
• Uphostery (we)
• Blanket(we)
• Terry towel (wa,we)
Technical
Medical(stocking, compression bandages)
(wa,we)
Automotive(seat upholstery, roofing, filtration,
composites)(wa,we)
Packaging and mosquito nets, filtration
(wa,we)

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