Milady Ch 20 Chemical Services

1. MILADY
CHEMICAL
TEXTURE SERVICES
Perms. Relaxers. Hair Structure. Chemistry. pH. Steps & Precautions
.

3. (continues)
DAY 1- History, Consult, Structure
DAY 2- Chemistry, Types, Relaxers
DAY 3- Relaxers & Review

4. (continues)
• Chemical texture services allow you to
offer clients options to change the
texture of their hair and explore the
fashionable world of hairstyling.
• Knowing how to perform these services
accurately, safely, and professionally will
help build a trusting and loyal clientele
• Builds confidence with other Chemical
services
• Chemical services are the most lucrative
and repetitive with many retail products
specific to hair’s texture and condition.
• A thorough understanding of chemistry
allows you to choose correct chemical &
strength while maintaining safety and
integrity of the hair

5. • What used to take 4-
6 hours now only
take 20 Min to
process
• We now use
Chemical reactions
VS Electrical
reactions
• Highly caustic soda
heated to 212
degrees was replaced
with ATG & body
heat
• Sodium Hydroxide
• Cow Urine-
Amm/Sulfur
• Less chemical burns
&hair loss
THEN + NOW

6. 1901-1910
Karl/Charles Nessler Ralph Evans, Everett McDonough
( machine less perm/ Over night
perm)
1930s
1938-
Arnold Willat
Cold wave
( precursor to modern perm )

7. D. E. P. T. H.
HAIR & SCALP
ANALYSIS
E
N
S
I
T
Y
L
A
S
C
I
T
Y
O
R
O
S
I
T
Y
E
X
T
U
R
E
I
S
T
O
R
Y

8. • Permanent waving
• Relaxing
• Curl re-forming/ Jheri Curl
CHEMICAL TEXTURE SERVICES

9. STRUCTURE OF THE HAIR SHAFT
3 main layers of the hair shaft

10. How Chemical Services Affect the Structure of Hair
• Cuticle – tough outer layer of hair; surrounds the
inner layers and protects hair from damage
(continues)
CourtesyofP&GBeautyfromJohnGrey's,TheWorldof
HairCare.
CourtesyofP&GBeautyfromJohnGrey's,TheWorldof
HairCare.

11. STRUCTURES OF THE HAIR SHAFT
Closed,
healthy, low
pH
Slightly raised, any
change in pH ( water,
chemicals, products)
Damaged, open
Chemicals, heat
environment
CUTICLE
Hydrophilic; translucent

12. STRUCTURES OF THE HAIR SHAFT-
CUTICLE
4-8. 9-13. Up to 18

13. STRUCTURES OF THE HAIR SHAFT
CORTEX
• Melanin
• 90 % weight
• Chemical
changes
• Protein in
cortex provides
elasticity
Cuticle scales are attached to the cortex- CROSS SECTION

14. STRUCTURES OF THE HAIR SHAFT
Fine and or blond hair may
not have one; not involved
in salon services.
Full, fragmented, missing
MEDULLA

15. pH – POTENTIAL HYDROGEN & IONIZATION
7 is NEUTRAL
Water
CLOSES CUTICLE OPENS CUTICLE
Measures the acidity & alkalinity of a product ( strength )
Have to have water to be measured on pH scale
CATION-
positive +
HYDROGEN
ANION-
Negative -
HYDROXIDE

16. LOGARITHMIC- Change in 10 fold
, ,
7.0-9.6
Thio- free
Ammonia Free
Acid Balanced
6.5-7
Low pH
4.5-7
True Acid
9.0-9.6
Exothermic
Alkaline/Cold
1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
• 1 Change in
Number
represents
multiples of 10
• pH Scale allows
you to
understand the
true strength of
the product
compared to the
hair
Ammonia & Relaxers are 100 million times more alkaline than hair

17. • Amino acids – compounds made of carbon, oxygen,
hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur
• Peptide (end) bonds – chemical bonds that join amino
acids together end-to-end in long chains to form
polypeptide chains (continues)
Building Blocks of Hair

18. CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF HAIR
Keratin protein makes up about 97% of the hairs structure;
made up of AMINO ACIDS that are made up of ELEMENTS-
Different combinations of elements make up the Amino Acids
51% 21% 6% 17% 5%
Makes up human hair and is also found in skin & nails

19. Makes up
C.O.H.N.S;
Interactions
make
everything!!

22. 18 amino
acids that
make up
keratin
Groups of Elements;
Responsible for ALL
changes that take
place in the hair

23. CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF HAIR
KERATIN PROTEINS are made up
long chains of AMINO ACIDS that are
joined together end to end like pop beads
Most prevalent
AMINO
ACIDS in hair
Amino acids
used to make
proteinAMINO ACIDS make
the protein KERATIN
CREATED BY SULFUR
ATOMS
( DISULFIDE BOND )

24. CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF HAIR
AMINO ACIDS LINK
TOGETHER
POLYPEPTIDE CHAINS are
made up of AMINO ACIDS that
are COVALENTLY bonded like
beads on a string
This covalent bond holds the
AMINO ACIDS together & is
called a PEPTIDE BOND or
END BOND
POLYPEPTIDE
CHAIN

25. ACID (+)
AMINE TAIL ( -)
PEPTIDE/ END BOND
POLYPEPTIDE
CHAIN
HOW HAIR FORMS

26. SIDE BONDS OF THE CORTEX
CORTEX/
CORTICAL
CELLS
Millions of
polypeptide
chains
SALT
DISULFIDE
HYDROGEN
SIDE BONDS give the hair its
strength and elasticity
Apart of all styling &
chemical services
These
POLYPEPTIDE
CHAINS link
together

27. Polypeptide
chains
twisting
Weakest;
simplest atom
Weak; ionic;
sodium & chlorine
Strongest; chemical
Covalent

28. Strongest; chemical
Covalent
Non Essential AminoNon Essential Amino
CYSTINE
oxidation of cysteine
4% of protein; accounts for
90% of hairs strength
All permanent changes
happen to the cystine link
Every 4 turns

29. VS.

30. HAIR STRUCTURE- Bonds in the hair
HYDROGEN- STYLING
BOND
Physical bond
Broken & reformed with
styling
SALT- PH BOND
Physical bond
Broken by change
in PH
DISULFIDE – CHEMICAL
Chemical bond
Broken by a chemical change
Strongest
Permanently changed

31. SIDE BONDS OF THE CORTEX
HYDROGEN
• HYDROGEN BONDS are a weak, physical
bond that is easily broken by water or heat
• Accounts for 1/3 of hairs strength
• Weakest but most abundant
STYLING
BOND

32. SIDE BONDS OF THE CORTEX
SALT
PRODUCT
BOND
• SALT BONDS are a weak, temporary bond that can be
broken by change in pH
• 1/3 hairs strength

33. SIDE BONDS OF THE CORTEX
DISULFIDE
CHEMICAL
BOND
• DISULFIDE BONDS are a
strong, chemical bond
• Joins 2 sulfur atoms from the
CYSTEINE amino acid
• Forms a covalent bond
• Strongest but fewest in the
hair
• 1/3 hairs strength
• Broken by chemical change
like perming/ relaxing
• LANTHIONINE BONDS
are made when hydroxide
relaxers break then convert
disulfide bonds, when rinsed
• Lanthionine is 1 SULFUR
ATOM; Disulfide is 2

34. CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF HAIR
KERATIN PROTEINS are long coiled
POLYPEPTIDE CHAINS made of amino
acids
50 amino acids make a protein that starts to
spiral called a HELIX
The spirals intertwine with each other to form
a HELIX COIL
HELIX
COIL
POLYPEPTIDE
CHAINS

35. MICRO-
FIBRIL
7 – fine
8 – medium
9- coarse

36. MACRO-
FIBRILS
( CORTEX)
100s micro fibrils

37. Perms are a 2 step process
PHYSICAL- breaks Hydrogen & Salt Bonds CHEMICAL- breaks Disulfide Bonds

38. RODS
Types, diameter, length
CURL EXAMPLE
SPIRAL/FLEXI ROD
12 inches long
CONCAVE/ STRAIGHT
LENGTH/DIAMETER
LOOP/SPIRAL
Size/Shape determines size/shape of curl.
Wrapped AT LEAST 2 ½ times for a full curl

39. End Papers- Protect porous ends, controls subsection,
prevents fish hooks
• 1 top 1 on bottom
• Most control
• Great for long hair &
layers
• 1 on top
• Least control
• Best for 1
LENGTHS
• 1 folded in half
• Horizontally or
Vertically
• Be careful of pinching
ends
DOUBLE
FLAT
BOOKEND SINGLE
FLAT

40. Sectioning for a Perm
• Panels – size, shape, and
direction of panels vary based
on type of wrapping pattern
and type and
size of tool.
• Base sections – subsections of
a panel based on size of tool.

41. ON BASE HALF ON
BASE
OFF BASE
BASE PLACEMENT-
stay consistent & remember shape of the head
Angle at which hair is held from head, determines volume
Most volume Medium volume Least volume

42. Base Direction
The angle at which the tool is positioned and
the directional wrap pattern
DIRECTIONAL PATTERN; Be aware of
NATURAL GROWTH PATTERNS ( EXCESS STRESS )

43. Wrapping Patterns- Base
• Base control - 2 Aspects:
1. Size of base in relation to diameter of tool
2. Position of tool in relation to the base
(continues)

44. Wrapping Techniques
• Croquignole – hair wrapped from ends to scalp in
overlapping concentric layers
(continues)

45. • Spiral – hair wrapped at an angle to form a coil (like
the grip of a tennis racket); UNIFORM curl
Wrapping Techniques (continued)

46. Wrapping Patterns
• Double-rod
wrap
Piggy back
(continues)
• Basic wrap
Straight set

47. Wrapping Patterns
(continues)
• Weave• Curvature

48. • Bricklay permanent wrap
Wrapping Patterns continued)

49. Wrapping Patterns continued)

50. Partial Perms
• Used when the entire head is not permed
– Hair long on top, but short and close on sides
– Some hair too short to wrap on rods
– Sleek crown and curly perimeter desired
– Volume desired in certain areas only
– Transition using a weave technique from curly section to
straight

51. Perms for Men
• Many men are looking for added texture, fullness, style, and low
maintenance that only a perm can provide.
• Perms look fuller, make straight or coarse hair more manageable,
and help control stubborn cowlicks.
• Techniques are the same for men and women.

52. Chemistry of Permanent Waving
• Alkaline solutions
soften and swell the
hair and open the
cuticle.
• Acid solutions result
in far less swelling
of the hair than
alkaline solutions.

53. CHEMISTRY- How perms work
Reduction Reaction; Also known as REDOX
• Comes from the Waving Lotion
• Is responsible for breaking the
DISULFIDE bond by adding
hydrogen( in Waving Lotion )
• Electron Capacity is responsible
FOR ALL REDUCTIONS
Hydrogen
Reduction Reaction means adding hydrogen or oxygen

54. Reduction Reaction
• Waving lotion adds Hydrogen- this substance
is also known as a REDUCING AGENT
• Adding Hydrogen REDUCES the sulfur
atoms that make the Disulfide bond
• Different types and amounts of REDUCING
AGENTS determine strength of perm
CHEMISTRY- How perms work

55. REDUCING AGENTS
CHEMISTRY- How perms work
• Thio compounds: Mercaptan/ Thiol- Hydrogen & Sulfur joined
together
• Strength of solutions: determined by concentration/ amount of thio
( amount of hydrogen & sulfur atoms )
• Thioglycolic acid: Perm Salt; Colorless liquid; CAUSES
REDUCTION in perm solutions; breaks cross links; Allows keratin
to move freely
• Ammonium thioglycolate (ATG): main ingredient in alkaline
perms; Free ammonia that causes swelling
• Perm pH: second factor in solution strength

56. REDUCING AGENTS
CHEMISTRY- How perms work
• THIOGLYCOLIC ACID – Adds
HYDROGEN;
• Acid is lower pH so you need
• AMMONIUM THIOGLYGOLATE ( ATG )
swells the hair and open cuticle so ACID
can break the Disulfide Bonds-
THIO/THIOL
AMMONIA

57. Makes up
C.O.H.N.S;
Interactions
make
everything!!

59. Types of Permanent Waves
(continues)

60. MOST COMMONLY USED PERMS
• Resistant, normal,
gray & white hair
• Strong true to rod
curl
• Faster processing
• Strong, tight curl
• pH 8.2-9.6
• Resistant, normal, fine
hair
• Firm, long lasting curl
• Creates heat
• pH 9-9.6
• 3 Components
• Activator has
Hydrogen Peroxide
• Tinted, 50%
highlighted
hair
• Less damage
• Softer curl
• pH 4.5-6.5

61. TYPES OF PERMS
Acid Wave:
• GMT
• Lower pH
• Less Thio
• Less Disulfide broken
• May need heat
True Acid Wave:
• 3 Components
• GMT- in activator
• pH 4.5 to 7.0
• REQUIRES heat
• “Gentle” – not a lot of
bonds broken
Acid balanced Wave:
• GMT
• pH 7.8 to 8.2
• Stronger than true
acid
• Ideal for a crisper
curl on finer hair
Acid
GLYCERYL MONOTHIOGLYCOLATE in place of ATG
Most are ENDOTHERMIC waves: activated by outside heat source;
low pH; needs heat help open cuticle
Long term exposure can lead to sensitivity or allergies for you or the guest

62. • Ammonia-free waves: main ingredient does not evaporate as
readily as ammonia; GMT or Sulfite compounds; weak, soft curl;
body wave. Little to no odor; MEA,
• Thio free: Uses CYSTEAMINE ( Amino Acid ); NOT ATG but
still a THIO compound. Lower on pH scale; Less bonds broken
• Low pH: Uses SULFITES, BISULFITES in place of
THIOGLYCOLIC ACID;
Very weak, does not provide a firm curl; body wave
TYPES OF PERMS
Aminomethylpropanol

63. Selecting Perm Type

64. REDKEN PERMS
ACID ALKALINE
ENDOTHERMIC

65. Permanent Wave Processing
• The amount of processing time
should be determined by the
strength of the solution, not
necessarily how long the perm
is processed.
• Most processing takes 5 to 10
minutes.
• Additional time allows
polypeptide chains to shift to
new configuration.

66. OVER PROCESSED VS. UNDER PROCESSED
OVER PROCESSED
• Does not mean overly
curly
• Too many disulfide
bonds were broken
• Too strong of a perm for
their canvas/history/hair
type
• Processed too long
• New growth takes a
curl, midshaft to ends
will not hold a curl
• May feel limp, mushy
or like wet cotton
UNDER
PROCESSED
• Not enough
disulfide bonds
were broken
• Too weak of a
perm solution for
hair type
• Did not leave
processing long
enough
• New growth is
straighter, midshaft
to ends is curly
• May feel hard,
coated, hard to
style

67. Preliminary Test Curls
• Correct processing time.
• Expected results from solution.
• Curl expected from rods and wrap.
• How much color will be removed from
the process if the client has color-treated
hair?
• Will the integrity of the hair be
compromised?
• Did the hair break? Is it dry? Frizzy?
• Is the client satisfied with the shape and
hold of the curl?

68. Perm Waving (Thio) Neutralization
• Thio neutralization stops
the action of the waving
solution and rebuilds the
hair into its new curly
form. It performs two
functions:
– Deactivates waving
solution
– Rebuilds broken disulfide
bonds

69. CHEMISTRY- How perms work
Reduction Reaction; Also known as REDOX
• Comes from the Neutralizer
• Is responsible for RE-
BUILDING the DISULFIDE
bond by adding OXYGEN( in
Neutralizer )
• Electron Capacity is responsible
FOR ALL REDUCTIONS
Oxygen
Reduction Reaction means adding hydrogen or oxygen
OXIDATION; Hydrogen Peroxide- 1.5 % ( 5 vol ) 3% ( 10 vol )
Oxidation can cause Haircolor to Oxidize ( get lighter )

70. NEUTRALIZER- Stops the perm; Reforms Disulfide Bonds
CHEMISTRY- How perms work
Reduction Reaction
• NEUTRALIZER adds Oxygen- this substance is also
known as a REDUCING AGENT
• Adding Oxygen REDUCES the bond of HYDROGEN &
SULFUR ( from waving lotion )
• OXYGEN & HYDROGEN join together, become water
& get rinsed from the hair
• Sulfur bonds with Sulfur again ( DISULFIDE BOND ) in
their new “S” shape

71. STEPS TO THE PERM
• Consultation- DEPTH, scalp
analysis
• Release of claims
• Double drape
• Clarify shampoo/ NO
CONDITIONER
• Towel blot, detangle
• Section hair
• Begin wrapping
• Cotton
• Perm Solution/Activator
• Test curl every 5-10 min until processed ( 20
min)
• Rinse 5-10 min. (1 min for each inch of hair)
• Towel blot
• Paper towel blot
• Air neutralize
• Cotton
• Neutralize 5 min
• Drop rods
• Rinse
• Style as desired/ DO NOT SHAMPOO for 48
hrs

72. Perm Safety Precautions
• Protect client clothing.
• Determine allergic reaction.
• Hair and scalp analysis.
• Determine extent of damage.
• Determine prior hydroxide
relaxers.
• Perform metallic salt test.
• Apply protective barrier cream.
(continues)

73. • Use as directed.
• Keep solution away from eyes
and skin.
• Always follow manufacturer’s
directions.
• Wear gloves when applying
solutions.
• Replace wet cotton or towels.
• Discard unused products.
• Shampoo and condition with
products for chemically treated
hair.
Perm Safety Precautions (continued)

74. Metallic Salts
• Not compatible with permanent waving.
• Leave a coating on the hair that may cause uneven
curls, severe discoloration, or hair breakage.
• Metallic salts are more commonly found in men’s
haircolors that are sold for home use.

75. WHY UNDERSTANDING RELAXERS IS IMPORTANT
• May also be referred to as a Perm
• Relaxer is a chemical process that alters the hairs bonds/structure straighter
“more relaxed”
• Having a thorough understanding of how Relaxing works will allow you to:
1. Choose the right relaxer strength
2. Know what chemicals are compatible VS incompatible
3. Maintain the integrity of the hair

76. Hair & Scalp analysis and proper consultation can prevent hair loss,
chemical burns, over lapping by choosing right product, application
& processing time

77. Curly Hair
• Extremely curly hair grows in long, twisted spirals or
coils.
• Cross-sections are highly elliptical; they vary in shape
and thickness along their lengths.
• The thinnest and weakest sections are located at the
twists.

78. WAVE PATTERN
• STRAIGHT
• WAVY
• CURLY
• EXTRA CURLY
COILY
KINKY
• Hair texture and Wave pattern are
extremely important
• Every bend in the hair is a weak
point
• Example: Fine extra curly is most
fragile because of cuticle layers &
bending point

79. HAIR TYPE & TEXTURE • Wave pattern and Texture give us 12
different hair types to choose from
TEXTURE
WAVE PATTERN
How the follicle tunnels
into the scalp

80. Chemical Hair Relaxers
• Chemical hair relaxing
is the process of
rearranging the basic
structure of extremely
curly hair into a straighter
or smoother form.
PhotographybyTomCarson.

81. Types of Chemical Hair Relaxers
• Ammonium thio
-No Lye
• Guanidine
hydroxide
-No Lye
• Sodium
hydroxide
-Lye

82. • Main ingredient: ammonium thioglycolate ATG- Same
ingredient as a Perm
• A Reduction Reaction/REDOX just like in a perm
• Usually have a pH above 10
• Usually have a higher concentration of ATG- More than in a
Perm
• Have a thicker viscosity
• Breaks MORE disulfide bonds then a Perm
THIO RELAXERS

83. • Examples:
• Sodium hydroxide-
oldest; most common
• Potassium hydroxide
• Lithium hydroxide
• Guanidine hydroxide
• NOT COMPATIBLE WITH THIO
• Have a pH of 13.0 or more
• Lanthionization-
NO REFORMING OF
DISULFIDE BOND
HYDROXIDE RELAXERS- Metal Based Relaxers;
HYDROXIDE ION is
active ingredient
2 Components to mix; over the
counter relaxer

84. • The neutralization used with thio relaxers is
an oxidizing agent, usually hydrogen
peroxide. The oxidation reaction caused by
the neutralizer rebuilds the disulfide bonds
that were broken by the thio relaxer.
THIO NEUTRALIZER
• Same Neutralization process as a Perm;
Rebuilds disulfide bond by REDOX

85. THIO RELAXERS- ONLY COMPATIBLE WITH THIO
REDOX
• Adds Hydrogen; Breaks
SOME Disulfide bonds to
smooths, straightens hair
REDOX
• Wrap hair on rollers;
Solution adds more
HYDROGEN to
break DISULFIDE
bonds; Neutralizer
adds OXYGEN to
reform
Yourtext
1.
2.
• Follow the same preparation steps as virgin hydroxide relaxers with the possible
exception of a light shampoo before a thio relaxer. DEPTH

86. • Hair is shampooed and
conditioned.
• Straightener is distributed evenly.
• Hair is processed to desired curl
reduction.
• Hair is thoroughly rinsed (10
minutes).
• Hair is conditioned and blown
dry.
• Sections are flat ironed.
• Hair is neutralized and blown dry.

88. Hydroxide Relaxers
• Examples:
– Sodium hydroxide
– Potassium hydroxide
– Lithium hydroxide
– Guanidine hydroxide
• Not compatible with
thio relaxers
• Have a pH of 13.0 or more
• Lanthionization

89. Types of Hydroxide Relaxers
• Metal hydroxide relaxers –
ionic compounds metal --
sodium (Na), potassium (K),
or lithium (Li) that is
combined with oxygen (O)
and hydrogen (H). Metal
hydroxide relaxers include
sodium hydroxide (NaOH),
potassium hydroxide (KOH),
and lithium hydroxide
(LiOH).
• The active ingredient is the
hydroxide ion.
(continues)

90. • Lye-based relaxers –
sodium hydroxide
relaxers, also known as
CAUSTIC SODA
– Oldest and most
common type of relaxers
– Same chemical used in
drain cleaners and
chemical hair
depilatories
Types of Hydroxide Relaxers (continued)
(continues)

91. • No-lye relaxers –
lithium hydroxide
and potassium
hydroxide often sold
as no-mix, no lye
relaxers
– Even though not lye,
chemistry identical
and little difference
in their
performances
Types of Hydroxide Relaxers (continued)
(continues)

92. • GUANIDINE hydroxide relaxers –
also sold as
no-lye relaxers.
– Hydroxide ion is active
ingredient.
– Require two components to be
mixed.
Types of Hydroxide Relaxers
(continues)
–Straighten hair
completely.
–Less scalp irritation;
use for sensitive scalp.
–Do not reduce hair
damage.
–More drying to hair.

93. • Low pH relaxers – ammonium sulfite and ammonium
bisulfite most commonly used.
– Compatible with thio; not compatible with hydroxide.
– Do not completely straighten extremely curly hair.
– Can be used on color-treated, damaged, or fine hair.
Types of Hydroxide Relaxers

94. Base and No-Base Relaxers
• Base – require application of base cream to protect
skin and scalp during relaxing.
• No-base – do not require protective base cream since
they already contain a base cream that melts at body
temperature; protective cream may be applied around
ears and hairline.

95. Selecting the Correct Relaxer

96. Relaxer Strengths
• Mild – formulated for fine, color-treated, or damaged
hair
• Regular – intended for normal hair texture with
medium natural curl
• Super – used for maximum strengthening on
extremely curly, coarse hair
Damage can occur if THIO or HYDROXIDE are applied to hair that
has been colored with products containing metallic salts.

97. Periodic Strand Testing
• Processing time varies
• Stretch the strand to determine if
curls are removed or you may
smooth and press the strand to the
scalp
• If the strand remains smooth,
it is sufficiently relaxed.
• If the curl returns, continue
processing.

98. Hydroxide Neutralization
• Process does not
involve oxidation or
rebuilding disulfide
bonds.
• Hair remains at a high
pH.
• Acid-balanced shampoo
or normalizing lotion is
used.

99. Hydroxide Relaxer
• Virgin application
• Retouch application
• Texturizing service
• Using base cream, protective cream, and normalizing products
• Neutralizing shampoo

100. Relaxer Safety Precautions
• Do thorough hair analysis and consultation.
• Examine the scalp for abrasions.
• Keep accurate and detailed client records.
• Have client sign a release statement.
• Do not apply hydroxide over thio.
• Do not apply thio over hydroxide.
• Do not relax hair treated with metallic dye.
• Do not relax overly damaged hair.
(continues)

101. • Do not shampoo prior to hydroxide relaxer.
• Make sure hair and scalp are dry.
• Apply protective base cream.
• Wear gloves.
• Protect client’s eyes.
• Flush eyes if solution touches.
• Do not allow product to touch ears, scalp, or skin.
Relaxer Safety Precautions
(continues)

102. • Perform periodic strand tests.
• Avoid scratching scalp.
• Do not overlap relaxer on hair strand.
• Adjust strength for fine/damaged hair.
• Do not remove more than 80 percent of curl.
• Thoroughly rinse relaxer from hair.
• Use normalizing lotion.
Relaxer Safety Precautions (continued)
(continues)

103. • Use neutralizing shampoo with color indicator to confirm
restored pH.
• Use conditioner and wide-tooth comb to eliminate excessive
stretching when combing tangles.
• Do not use hot irons or excessive heat on chemically relaxed hair.
Relaxer Safety Precautions (continued)

104. Keratin Straightening Treatments
• Contain silicone polymers and formalin, which release formaldehyde gas
when heated to high temperatures.
• Need proper VENTILATION system
• Do not break bonds; treatment applied, hair blown dry, and flat iron set at
450°F is used on narrow sections to polymerize a coating on the hair.
• Eliminate up to 95 percent of frizz and curl.
• Last three to five months.

105. Steps to Keratin Straightening
• Perform consultation
• Pre-conditioning – equalize
porosity
(continues)
• Permanent color/highlights –
use mild to regular shampoo.
• Toners or demigloss –
perform three to five days
after keratin treatment.

106. Steps to Keratin Straightening
(continues)
Home-care maintenance – CRITICAL for first 3 days
Hair may not be shampooed for three days (72 hours) after the
service.
• Avoid getting any moisture into hair for 72 hours.
• The client should wear his or her hair down, and should not use
pins, clips, ponytail holders, or sunglasses to hold the hair back.
• The hair must remain in a straight position for 72 hours to
maintain its new straightness.

109. Curl Re-Forming
• A thio-based chemical service that reformats curly and wavy hair
into looser and larger curls and waves.
• Reformation occurs by wrapping the hair on rods.
• Soft curl permanents use ATG (ammonium thioglycolate) and
oxidation neutralizers
just as thio permanent waves do.

110. Safety
Precautions
for Hair
Relaxing
and
Curl Re-
Forming
(continues)
PERFORM A
THOROUGH
HAIR ANALYSIS
AND CLIENT
CONSULTATION
PRIOR TO THE
SERVICE.
EXAMINE THE
SCALP FOR
ABRASIONS.
RECORDS OF
SERVICES &
OUTCOMES
RELEASE OF
CLAIMS.
HYDROXIDE
RELAXER IS
NOT
COMPATIBLE
WITH THIO

111. Safety Precautions (continued)
(continues)
Do not apply a thio
relaxer or soft curl
perm on hair that has
been previously treated
with a hydroxide
relaxer.
Do not chemically relax
hair that has been
treated with a metallic
dye.
Do not relax overly
damaged hair.
Do not shampoo the
client prior to the
application of a
hydroxide relaxer.
The client’s hair and
scalp must be
completely dry and free
from perspiration prior
to the application of a
hydroxide relaxer.

112. (continues)
Apply a protective base cream to avoid scalp irritation.Apply
Wear gloves during the relaxer application.Wear
If any solution accidentally gets into the client’s eye, flush the eye immediately with
cool water, and refer the client to a doctor.Flush
Do not allow chemical relaxers to accidentally come into contact with the client’s
ears, scalp, or skin.Do not allow
Perform periodic strand tests during the service to monitor the pace of curl
removal.Perform
Safety Precautions (continued)

113. Safety Precautions (continued)
Avoid scratching the
scalp with your comb or
fingernails.
When performing a hair
relaxer service, be sure
not to overlap onto
previously relaxed hair.
Apply to new growth
only.
Thoroughly rinse the
chemical relaxer from
the hair.
Follow manufacturer’s
instructions closely
when applying a
chemical relaxer.
Use a neutralizing
shampoo to guarantee
that the hair and scalp
have been restored to
their normal pH.

114. REVIEW!!!!!