This document provides an overview of permanent waving (perms), including the key topics of hair structure, perm chemistry, types of perms, tools used, and the perm process. It discusses how perms work on a chemical level to break and reform hair bonds, altering the hair structure. Different reducing agents determine the strength of perms by impacting how many disulfide bonds are broken. Proper sectioning and wrapping techniques are important to achieve the desired curl pattern. Understanding hair chemistry and the perm process allows stylists to choose the right perm type and strength for each client's hair.

1. pH. Hair Structure. Hair Chemistry. Perm Classifications. Tools.
TEXTURE-
PERMING

2. AGENDA KEY POINTS
• Permanent Waving Intro
• Understanding the Why
• Hair Structure
• Chemistry of Perming
• Types of Perms
• Tools
• Consultation
• Steps
• Different wraps
• Basic Perm- 9 Section
• Bricklay Perm
• Candlestick – Spiral- Perm
• Flexi Rod/ Loop circle Perm
Theory Hands-On

3. WHY UNDERSTANDING PERMS IS IMPORTANT
• Permanent Wave, Permanent, Perm
• Permanent waving is a chemical process that alters the hairs
bonds/structure
• Having a thorough understanding of how Permanent Waving
works will allow you to:
1. Choose the right perm & perm strength
2. Know what chemicals are compatible VS incompatible
3. Maintain the integrity of the hair

4. • What used to take 4-6 hours
now only take 20 Min to
process
• We now use Chemical
reactions VS Electrical
reactions
• Highly caustic soda heated to
212 degrees was replaced
with ATG & body heat
• Less chemical burns &hair
loss
THEN + NOW

5. 1. Shampoo with clarifying
2. Remove excess water; better product penetration
3. Tension
4. Mix chemicals properly
5. Apply evenly
6. Processing cap is covering whole head
7. Test curl
8. Rinse, Rinse, Rinse
9. Towel blot before Neutralizer
10.Use all Chemicals in bottles
Quick Tips at a glance

6. D. E. P. T. H.
HAIR & SCALP
ANALYSIS
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7. WAVE PATTERN
• STRAIGHT
• WAVY
• CURLY
• EXTRA CURLY
COILY
KINKY

8. 3 main layers of the hair shaft
HAIR STRUCTURE

9. Closed, healthy, low
pH
Slightly raised, any
change in pH ( water,
chemicals, products)
Damaged, open
Chemicals, heat
environment
HAIR STRUCTURE- 3 MAIN COMPONETS- CUTICLE

10. HAIR TEXTURE- Refers to diameter & cuticle layers
Choosing the right Perm
Strength based off of hair
texture:
EXAMPLE- Is it strong
enough to break through
COARSE hairs cuticle
layers ( 18 )
up to 18 9-13 4-8

11. STRUCTURES OF THE HAIR SHAFT
CORTEX
• Melanin
• 90% weight
• Chemical changes
• Protein
• Elasticity
HAIR STRUCTURE- 3 MAIN COMPONETS

12. STRUCTURES OF THE HAIR SHAFT
Fine and or blond hair may
not have one; not involved
in salon services.
Full, fragmented, missing
-MEDULLA
HAIR STRUCTURE- 3 MAIN COMPONETS

13. pH – POTENTIAL HYDROGEN & IONIZATION
CATION-
positive +
HYDROGEN
ANION-
Negative -
HYDROXIDE
7 is NEUTRAL
Water
CLOSES CUTICLE OPENS CUTICLE
Measures the acidity & alkalinity of a product ( strength )
Have to have water to be measured on pH scale

14. LOGARITHMIC- Change in 10 fold
, ,
7.0-9.6
Thio- free
Ammonia Free
Acid Balanced
6.5-7
Low pH
4.5-7
True Acid
9.0-9.6
Exothermic
Alkaline/Cold
1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
• 1 Change in Number
represents multiples
of 10
• pH Scale allows you
to understand the true
strength of the
product compared to
the hair
Ammonia & Relaxers are 100 million times more alkaline than hair

15. HAIR STRUCTURE- Elements in the hair
Inside the Cortex
PEPTIDE/END BOND
PEPTIDE/END BOND
POLYPEPTIDE CHAIN
Makes up
C.O.H.N.S;
Interactions
make
everything!!
C. O. H. N. S.
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16. HAIR STRUCTURE- Bonds in the hair
In side the Cortex
PROTEIN /KERATIN;
responsible for any
physical or chemical
changes
=
PEPTIDE/END BOND
PEPTIDE/END BOND
POLYPEPTIDE CHAIN
HELIX

17. HAIR STRUCTURE- Bonds in the hair
HYDROGEN- STYLING BOND
Physical bond
Broken & reformed with styling
SALT- PH BOND
Physical bond
Broken by change in PH
DISULFIDE – CHEMICAL
Chemical bond
Broken by a chemical change
Strongest
Permanently changed

18. Perms are a 2 step process
PHYSICAL- breaks Hydrogen & Salt Bonds CHEMICAL- breaks Disulfide Bonds

19. RODS
Types, diameter, length
SPIRAL/FLEXI ROD
CONCAVE/ STRAIGHT
LENGTH/DIAMETER
LOOP/SPIRAL
Size/Shape determines size/shape of curl. Wrapped AT LEAST 2 ½ times for a full curl

20. End Papers- Protect porous ends, controls subsection, prevents fish hooks
• 1 top 1 on bottom
• Most control
• Great for long hair & layers
• 1 on top
• Least control
• Best for 1 LENGTHS
• 1 folded in half
• Horizontally or Vertically
• Becareful of pinching ends
DOUBLE
FLAT
BOOKEND
SINGLE
FLAT

21. • Panels: size, shape, and direction of
panels vary based on type of
wrapping pattern and type and size
of tool
• Base sections: subsections of a panel
based on size
of tool
SECTIONING

22. ON BASE HALF ON
BASE
OFF BASE
BASE PLACEMENT-
stay consistent & remember shape of the head
Angle at which hair is held from head, determines volume
Most volume Medium volume Least volume

23. WRAPPING
• CROQINOLE- Hair is wrapped from
ends to scalp.
• Tighter curl at bottom since hair over
laps becoming thicker on the rod
• SPIRAL/CANDLESTICK- Angle the
hair is wrapped, Long hair
• Uniform curl since hair wraps
vertically on the rod

24. WRAPPING
• FLEXI RODS/ SOFT BENDER RODS
• Spiral curl
• Foam, moldable
• LOOP RODS
• Spiral curl
• Plastic, set shape

25. CHEMISTRY- How perms work
ALKALINE
Softens and swells the hair;
opens the cuticle
ACIDIC
LESS swelling;
still opens cuticle

26. CHEMISTRY- How perms work
Reduction Reaction; Also known as REDOX
• Comes from the Waving Lotion
• Is responsible for breaking the
DISULFIDE bond by adding
hydrogen( in Waving Lotion )
• Electron Capacity is responsible
FOR ALL REDUCTIONS
Hydrogen
Reduction Reaction means adding hydrogen or oxygen

27. Reduction Reaction
• Waving lotion adds Hydrogen- this
substance is also known as a REDUCING
AGENT
• Adding Hydrogen REDUCES the sulfur
atoms that make the Disulfide bond
• Different types of REDUCING AGENTS
determine strength of perm
CHEMISTRY- How perms work

28. REDUCING AGENTS
CHEMISTRY- How perms work
• Thio compounds: Mercaptan/ Thiol; Hydrogen & Sulfur joined together
• Strength of solutions: determined by concentration of thio
( amount of hydrogen & sulfur atoms )
• Thioglycolic acid: Perm Salt; Colorless liquid; CAUSES REDUCTION in
perm solutions; breaks cross links; Allows keratin to move freely
• Ammonium thioglycolate (ATG): main ingredient in alkaline perms; Free
ammonia that causes swelling
• Perm pH: second factor in solution strength

29. REDUCING AGENTS
CHEMISTRY- How perms work
• THIOGLYCOLIC ACID – Adds HYDROGEN;
acid is lower pH so you need AMMONIUM
THIOGLYGOLATE ( ATG ) to swell the hair and
open cuticle so ACID can break the Disulfide
Bonds

30. MOST COMMONLY USED PERMS
• Resistant, normal,
gray & white hair
• Strong true to rod
curl
• Faster processing
• Strong, tight curl
• pH 8.2-9.6
• Resistant, normal,
fine hair
• Firm, long lasting
curl
• Creates heat
• pH 9-9.6
• Tinted, 50%
highlighted
hair
• Less damage
• Softer curl
• pH 4.5-6.5

31. TYPES OF PERMS
Acid Wave:
• GMT
• Lower pH
• Less Thio
• Less Disulfide broken
• May need heat
True Acid Wave:
• GMT
• pH 4.5 to 7.0
• REQUIRES heat
• “Gentle” – not a lot of bonds
broken
Acid balanced Wave:
• GMT
• pH 7.8 to 8.2
• Stronger than true
acid
• Ideal for a crisper curl
on finer hair
Acid
GLYCERYL MONOTHIOGLYCOLATE in place of ATG
Most are Endothermic waves: activated by outside heat source; low pH; needs heat help open cuticle
EXOTHERMIC

32. • Ammonia-free waves: main ingredient does not evaporate as readily as ammonia;
GMT or Sulfite compounds; weak, soft curl; body wave. Little to no odor
• Thio free: Uses CYSTEAMINE ( Amino Acid ); NOT ATG but still a THIO
compound. Lower on pH scale; Less bonds broken
• Low pH: Uses SULFITES, BISULFITES in place of THIOGLYCOLIC ACID;
Very weak, does not provide a firm curl; body wave
TYPES OF PERMS

33. Reference your Milady book

34. REDKEN PERMS
ACID ALKALINE
ONLY ONE WITH
ATG
ENDOTHERMIC

35. CHEMISTRY- How perms work
Reduction Reaction; Also known as REDOX
• Comes from the Neutralizer
• Is responsible for RE-BUILDING
the DISULFIDE bond by adding
OXYGEN( in Neutralizer )
• Electron Capacity is responsible
FOR ALL REDUCTIONS
Oxygen
Reduction Reaction means adding hydrogen or oxygen

36. NEUTRALIZER- Stops the perm; Reforms Disulfide Bonds
CHEMISTRY- How perms work
Reduction Reaction
• NEUTRALIZER adds Oxygen- this substance is also
known as a REDUCING AGENT
• Adding Oxygen REDUCES the bond of HYDROGEN &
SULFUR ( from waving lotion )
• OXYGEN & HYDROGEN join together, become water &
get rinsed from the hair
• Sulfur bonds with Sulfur again ( DISULFIDE BOND ) in
their new “S” shape

37. OVER PROCESSED VS. UNDER PROCESSED
OVER PROCESSED
• Does not mean overly curly
• Too many disulfide bonds were
broken
• Too strong of a perm for their
canvas/history/hair type
• Processed too long
• New growth takes a curl,
midshaft to ends will not hold a
curl
• May feel limp, mushy or like wet
cotton
UNDER PROCESSED
• Not enough disulfide
bonds were broken
• Too weak of a perm
solution for hair type
• Did not leave processing
long enough
• New growth is straighter,
midshaft to ends is curly
• May feel hard, coated,
hard to style

38. SECTIONING FOR WRAPPING
STRAIGHT SET
BASIC WRAP
BRICKLAY WRAP
SPIRAL
CANDLESTICK

39. BRICKLAY PATTERN
SECTIONING FOR WRAPPING
ROD
• Helps prevents splits &
demarcation lines
• Best for shorter styles
• Best on fine hair
• Begin in front
• Wrapped horizontally1
32
4
5 6
9
9
5
4
2 1
7
9 78
STRAIGHT SET/BASIC
• Most common
• All hair types
• Best of short to medium length
• 9 sections
• Wrapped horizontally

40. SECTIONING FOR WRAPPING
SPIRAL/ CANDLESTICK
• Best on long hair
• Subsections are as WIDE at
circumference of rod
• Subsections are wrapped vertically
at an angle
• Begin in nape
• Section “horseshoe” up head; as
wide at circumference of rod
SUBSECTIONS & SECTIONS
BASED OFF THIS SIZE

41. STEPS TO THE PERM
• Consultation- DEPTH, scalp analysis
• Release of claims
• Double drape
• Clarify shampoo/ NO CONDITIONER
• Towel blot, detangle
• Section hair
• Begin wrapping
• Cotton
• Perm Solution/Activator
• Test curl every 5-10 min until processed ( 20 min)
• Rinse 5-10 min. (1 min for each inch of hair)
• Towel blot
• Paper towel blot
• Air neutralize
• Cotton
• Neutralize 5 min
• Drop rods
• Rinse
• Style as desired/ DO NOT SHAMPOO for 48 hrs

42. pH. Hair Structure. Hair Chemistry. Perm Classifications. Tools.
TEXTURE-
PERMING
What did you learn?