Milady Ch 11

1. MILADY
PROPERTIES
OF HAIR & SCALP
Structure. Growth. Disorders & Diseases

2. "YOU CAN'T CONTROL
EVERYTHING. YOUR HAIR
WAS PUT ON YOUR
HEAD TO REMIND YOU
OF THAT."

3. AGENDA TUESDAY-Intro; Structure of hair root
WEDNESDAY- Pats of hair/keratinization
THURSDAY-Chemical composition of hair
FRIDAY-Melanin, wave pattern, hair growth
TUESDAY- Myths; hair loss
WEDNESDAY- Alopecia
THURSDAY- Disorders of hair & scalp
FRIDAY- Parasites; hair loss treatments

4. • There are 100 trillion cells but only 10 trillion are
human!
• Most the other 90 trillion are bacteria, parasites & fungi
• - Demodex Folliculorum lives in human hair follicles-
up to 25 mites in 1 hair follicle!

5. CROWNING GLORY is the importance of
hair, how good we feel when our hair looks
great and just a how distressing a bad hair
day can be
• Hair stylists play an important role in
many people's lives
• All hair services need a understanding
of the growth, structure & composition
of hair
• What creates natural color & texture
leads to successful chemical services
• Identifying scalp conditions

6. DISCOVER THE STRUCTURE OF HAIR
• Study of hair, it's disease & care. Derived from Greek
words TRICHOS ( hair ) & OLOGY ( study of )
• Part of the integumentary system; largest & fastest
growing organ

7. 20 in body; 18 related to hair. Body produces 11 of 20, rest
must come from diet

8. AMINO ACIDS
ESSENTIAL NON-ESSENTIAL
Building blocks of hair
20/ 18 hair related/ 11 of those made by
body/ remaining from diet

9. DISCOVER THE STRUCTURE OF HAIR
Hair we see is divided into 2 main parts
HAIR ROOT- below
the surface of the
epidermis
HAIR SHAFT-
projects above
the epidermis

10. 5 MAIN STRUCTURES OF
THE HAIR ROOT
NEED TO KNOW!!!!!!
• Hair follicle
• Hair bulb
• Dermal papilla
• Arrector pili muscle
• Sebaceous ( oil ) gland
STRUCTURES OF THE HAIR ROOT

11. HAIR FOLLICLE is a tube like
depression in the skin/scalp
that contains the root
• All over the body except for the
palms & soles
• Extends down from epidermis to
dermis
• Surrounds dermal papilla
• More than one hair can grow out
of a single follicle
STRUCTURES OF THE HAIR ROOT

12. HAIR BULB- lowest area;
thickened club shape that forms
lower part of hair root; fits over
and covers dermal papilla
DERMAL PAPILLA- Small, cone
shaped elevation at base of hair
follicle that fits into hair bulb;
has blood & nerve supply that
provides nutrients for growth;
Known as the Mother of the hair
Dermal papilla
STRUCTURES OF THE HAIR ROOT

13. REVIEW- Tuesday
• What does Crowning glory mean?
• Why do we need an understanding of the
hair make up?
• What does Trichology mean?
• What body system is hair apart of?
• How many amino acids does our body
produce?
• The 2 main parts of the hair that we see
are what?
• Give me a fact about the hair follicle
• What is the dermal papillae responsible
for?

14. STRUCTURES OF THE HAIR ROOT
ARRECTOR PILI MUSCLE- small,
involuntary muscles fibers at the
base of the hair follicle; fear or
cold allows them to contract
making hair stand up (
goosebumps )
SEBACEOUS GLANDS- oil glands
of skin that are connected to hair
follicle; secrete oily substance
called SEBUM that lubricates the
hair & skin

15. STRUCTURES OF THE HAIR SHAFT
3 main layers of the hair shaft

16. STRUCTURES OF THE HAIR SHAFT
Closed, healthy,
low pH
Slightly raised, any
change in pH ( water,
chemicals, products)
Damaged, open
Chemicals, heat
environment
-CUTICLE
Hydrophilic; translucent

17. STRUCTURES OF THE HAIR SHAFT- CUTICLE
4-8. 9-13. Up to 18

18. STRUCTURES OF THE HAIR SHAFT-
Cuticle scales are attached to the cortex-CROSS-SECTION
CORTEX
• Melanin
• 90 % weight
• Chemical changes
• Protein in cortex
provides elasticity

19. STRUCTURES OF THE HAIR SHAFT
Fine and or blond hair may not
have one; not involved in salon
services.
Full, fragmented, missing
-MEDULLA

20. CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF HAIR
Hair is made up of protein that grows from cells with-in the hair follicle.
When these cell form, they begin the journey up through the follicle and
mature in a process called KERATINIZATION.

21. CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF HAIR
As the cells form, they mature &
fill up with KERATIN
After filling with keratin , the cells
move upward, lose their nucleus &
die.
When hair shaft emerges from
scalp, it is completely keratinized (
no longer living )

22. CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF HAIR
As the cells form, they mature &
fill up with KERATIN
After filling with keratin , the
cells move upward, lose their
nucleus & die.
When hair shaft emerges from
scalp, it is completely keratinized
( no longer living – similar to nail
plate )
Keratinization
zone
Stem cell area
Keratinization
zone

23. REVIEW- Wednesday
• What involuntary muscle causes goose
bumps?
• Where do we NOT have sebaceous
glands?
• What do sebaceous glands secrete?
• 3 main parts to the hair?
• Some facts about the cuticle
• Some facts about the cortex
• Keratinized mean that the cells are
what?
• How is the dermal papilla responsible
for keratinization?

24. CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF HAIR
Hair is 90% protein ; made up of AMINO ACIDS that are made up of
ELEMENTS- Different combinations of elements make up the Amino Acids
51% 21% 6% 17% 5%
Makes up human hair and is also found in skin & nails

25. CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF HAIR
Proteins are made up long chains of AMINO
ACIDS that are joined together end to end
like pop beads
Most prevalent
AMINO ACIDS
in hair
Amino acids
used to make
protein
AMINO ACIDS make
the protein KERATIN

26. CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF HAIR
POLYPEPTIDE CHAINS are
made up of AMINO ACIDS
that are COVALENTLY
bonded like beads on a string
This covalent bond holds the
AMINO ACIDS together & is
called a PEPTIDE BOND or
END BOND
POLYPEPTIDE
CHAIN

27. ACID (+)
AMINE TAIL ( -)
PEPTIDE/ END BOND
POLYPEPTIDE CHAIN

28. SIDE BONDS OF THE CORTEX
CORTEX/
CORTICAL
CELLS
Millions of
polypeptide
chains SALT
DISULFIDE
HYDROGEN
SIDE BONDS give the hair its
strength and elasticity
Apart of all styling & chemical
services
These
POLYPEPTIDE
CHAINS link
together

29. CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF HAIR
PROTEINS are long coiled
POLYPEPTIDE CHAINS made of
amino acids
50 amino acids make a protein that
starts to spiral called a HELIX
The spirals intertwine with each
other to form a HELIX COIL
HELIX
COIL
POLYPEPTIDE
CHAINS

30. MICRO-
FIBRIL
7 – fine
8 – medium
9- coarse

31. MACRO-
FIBRILS
( CORTEX)
100s micro fibrils

32. SIDE BONDS OF THE CORTEX
HYDROGEN
• HYDROGEN BONDS are a weak, physical bond
that is easily broken by water or heat
• Accounts for 1/3 of hairs strength
• Weakest but most abundantSTYLING
BOND
BOND

33. SIDE BONDS OF THE CORTEX
SALT
PRODUCT
BOND
• SALT BONDS are a weak, temporary bond that can be
broken by change in pH
• 1/3 hairs strength

34. SIDE BONDS OF THE CORTEX
DISULFIDE
CHEMICAL
BOND
• DISULFIDE BONDS are a
strong, chemical bond
• Joins 2 sulfur atoms from
the CYSTEINE amino acid
• Forms a covalent bond
• Strongest but fewest in the
hair
• 1/3 hairs strength
• Broken by chemical change
like perming/ relaxing
• LANTHIONINE BONDS are
made when hydroxide
relaxers break then convert
disulfide bonds, when rinsed
• Lanthionine is 1 SULFUR
ATOM; Disulfide is 2

35. REVIEW- Thursday
• Hair is what percent protein?
• What are the elements in the hair?
• Protein is a long chain of?
• How are amino acids joined together?
• When polypeptide chains attract
eachother they form what bonds?
• Which is the strongest?
• Why are bonds important when it
comes to styling?
• What is a helix coil?

36. HAIR PIGMENT
MELANIN is tiny grains
of pigment in the
cortex; gives hair its
color
EUMELANIN
(oval shaped)
PHEOMELANIN
(oval & rod shaped)
NATURAL HAIR
COLOR – mixture
FINE. MEDIUM. COARSE

37. Amino
TYROZINE
Enzyme
TYROSINASE
MELANIN
MELANOCYTES

38. WAVE PATTERN Refers to the shape of the hair strand as a result of your genetics
*Can vary all over a persons head

39. HAIR TYPE & TEXTURE • Wave pattern and Texture give us 12
different hair types to choose from
TEXTURE
WAVE PATTERN
How the follicle tunnels
into the scalp
Cross section of hair

40. WAVE PATTERN varies
from strand to strand
Follicle shape
determines wave
pattern

41. EXTREMELY CURLY HAIR
Grows in long twisted
spirals; varies in shape and
thickness along strand
Coiled hair is a fine texture
with many strands winding
together
Low elasticity, fragile,
knots easily

42. HAIR GROWTH
TERMINAL HAIR – thick,
pigmented, coarse; up to
3 feet long
VELLUS HAIR- LANUGO; unpigmented, fine;
not on palms / soles; women have 55% more;
1 mm long; eyelids, forehead

43. 1/2 in. a month; 90%
is in Anagen phase at
one time; 2-6 years;
faster between 15 &
30; hair cells
produced faster than
any other cell
1-2 weeks; shrinks/ shrivels up;
detaches from dermal papilla;
less than 1 % is in Catagen
phase at 1 time
3-6 month phase of
resting; 10% of hair
is in telogen phase;
cycles will begin
again; can shed or
stay in
place;WHOLE
CYCLE repeats
every 4-5 years
20 FULL
CYCLES IN 1
LIFETIME

44. REVIEW- Friday
• Where is melanin found?
• What are the 2 types of melanin?
• How does shape of melanin effect the color?
• What are the types of wave pattern?
• Why is wave pattern important?
• Does wave pattern corelate to hair texture?
• What does cross section mean?
• What are the 2 types of hair?
• What are the 3 hair growth stages?

45. • Cowlick
• Whorl
• Hair stream
• Texture
• Porosity
• Elasticity

46. MYTHS & FACTS ABOUT HAIR GROWTH
MYTH- Shaving, clipping & cutting makes hair grow back faster,
darker & coarser
MYTH- Scalp massages increase hair growth
MYTH- Gray hair is coarser & more resistant
MYTH- Amount of curl is determined by racial background
MYTH- Cross section of hair directly relates to the amount of curl or
shape of follicle

47. UNDERSTANDING HAIR LOSS CAUSES & TREATMENTS

48. UNDERSTANDING HAIR LOSS CAUSES & TREATMENTS

49. UNDERSTANDING HAIR LOSS CAUSES & TREATMENTS
• Less physically
attractive
• Less assertive
• Less successful
• Less personally
likable

50. UNDERSTANDING HAIR LOSS CAUSES & TREATMENTS
DHT- Dihydrotestosterone
Thinning hair- antibiotics or medication
Heart disease
Diabetes
Thyroid
Chemo
High Cholesterol
Anything that effects B5 and Hemoglobin
will effect how the hair follicle thrives
( B5 regulates testosterone; Hemoglobin
transport oxygen in blood
Birth Control- suppresses Estrogen

51. UNDERSTANDING HAIR LOSS CAUSES & TREATMENTS
MEN
• Experience more negative social
& emotional effects
• More preoccupied with their
baldness
• Conceal or compensate for hair
loss
WOMEN
• Greater investment in their
appearance
• Feel anxious, helpless& less
attractive

52. REVIEW- Tuesday
• Give an example of a Growth pattern?
• Does shaving make hair grow back
thicker?
• Is grey hair more resistant?
• What else effect the curl pattern of the
hair?
• How much hair is normal to lose a day?
• What are some things hair loss can make
us feel?

53. TYPES OF ABNORMAL HAIRLOSS
Abnormal hair loss
is ALOPECIA: falls
into 3 categories
• ANDROGENIC
ALOPECIA
• ALOPECIA
ARETA
• POSTPARTUM
ALOPECIA

54. ANDROGENIC ALOPECIA

55. ALOPECIA AREATA
Autoimmune disease
causes hair follicles
to be mistakenly
attacked by your own
immune system
White blood cells stop
hair growth during
ANAGEN
Affects 5 million in
U.S

56. POSTPARTUM ALOPECIA
Temporary hair loss after
pregnancy
Generally the growth cycle
turns back to normal within 1
year after baby is delivered

57. ALOPECIA AREATA
ALOPECIA TOTALIS
Total scalp hair loss
ALOPECIA UNIVERSALIS
Complete body hair loss

58. REVIEW- Wednesday
• What is alopecia?
• What alopecia is a result of your
immune system attacking the
follicle?
• Why does postpartum hairloss
happen?
• What is the difference between
Areata and Totalis?

59. DISORDERS OF THE HAIR
CANITIES- gray hair
Congenital
Acquired
RINGED HAIR- alternating
bands of gray & pigmented hair
HYPERTRICHOSIS

60. DISORDERS OF THE HAIR
TRICHOPTILOSIS-
split ends
TRICHORRHEXIS NODOSA- knotted hair;
modular sweeping along hair shaft; breaks easy

61. DISORDERS OF THE HAIR
MONILETHRIX- beaded hair
FRAGILITAS CRINIUM –
brittle hair; splitting

62. DISORDERS OF THE SCALP
• Your skin is in a constant state of
renewal
• The outer layer is constantly being
shed & replaced
• Shed 9 lbs of dead skin a year
• Skin cells of a normal healthy scalp,
fall off as small, dry flakes without
being noticed

63. DANDRUFF- PITYRIASIS
PITYRIASIS CAPITIS SIMPLEX-
Dry, flaky, loose
PITYRIASIS STEATOIDES-
Waxy, sticky, crusty

64. FUNGAL INFECTIONS
TINEA- ringworm
TINEA CAPITIS-
ringworm of
the scalp
TINEA FAVOSA- sulfur yellow
crusts ( scutula ); odor

65. REVIEW- Thursday
• What is the technical term for grey hair?
• What is the term for vellus hair turning
into terminal hair?
• What is the technical term for split ends?
• What is beaded hair?
• What is the technical term for dandruff?
• Give an example of a fungal infection

66. PEDICULOSIS
CAPITIS-
head lice
SCABIES-
itch mite

67. HAIR LOSS TREATMENTS

68. HAIR LOSS TREATMENTS

70. REVIEW- Friday
• Give an example of a parasite?
• What are the 2 types of hair loss treatment
options?
• What is the difference between a furuncle
and a carbuncle?