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1. Head Shape. Techniques. Tools.
HAIRCUTTING

2. AGENDA KEY POINTS
• The WHY
• Reference points
• Lines & Angles
• Elevation
• Finger angle/Cutting angle
• Guides/ Overdirection
• Tools
• Safety
• Consultation
• Techniques: 1 length, layers,
graduation
• 0 Degree- Blunt cut- Horizontal
• 0 Degree – Blunt cut- Diagonal
Forward
• Graduation
• Long Layers
• Uniform Layers
• Combination Cut
• Men’s/ Clipper Cut
Theory Hands-On

3. • Haircutting is a basic, foundational skill that all other hair
design is built
• An art form that allows you to shape, design and cut hair
into endless designs
• Foundational skills set you up to understand and perform
the principles of haircutting
• Understanding reference points & bone structure allow for
customizable cuts for your guest
• Having a thorough understanding of the rules allows you to
break them, building confidence in your self and with your
guest
• Great revenue in haircutting; becoming skilled instills trust
between you and your guest
WHY STUDY HAIRCUTTING?

4. REFERENCE POINTS- Areas on the head where it changes shape
• Bone structure changes from
person to person
• Hair reacts/responds differently
at the reference points
• CROWN- Growth patterns
• SIDES- Change in hairline &
size/shape of ears
• FRONT/NAPE- Density
changes, shape of skull changes

5. LINES, SECTIONS & ANGLES- Determines shape & technique
2 types of line in haircutting
Lines are a thin continuous mark
Extends for infinity
3 types of STRAIGHT LINE
Determines what technique you will use :
1 length, graduation, layer

6. • LINE- Horizontal
• 1 Length, 0 degrees, Blunt cut
• Creates width
• Creates weight line
• Draws eye side to side
• Maintains same direction
• Ideal for fine hair & or low density
LINES, SECTIONS & ANGLES- Determines shape & technique

7. • LINE- Vertical
• Layers, graduation
• Removes weight
• Creates length and or height
• Draws eye up & down; elongates shape & face
• Maintains same direction
• Ideal for dense,coarse hair, high density, round face; creates
narrow shape
LINES, SECTIONS & ANGLES- Determines shape & technique

8. • LINE- Diagonal
• Mostly seen in Graduation; 1 lengths, layers
• Builds weight
• Create emphasis/ focal point
• Draws eye to certain area of style
• Maintains same direction
• Ideal for all hair types, low & medium density
• Minimize or enhance facial shape
LINES, SECTIONS & ANGLES- Determines shape & technique

9. • LINE- Curved • Used to soften and or blend
• Can be full or partial circle
• Move in a circular pattern
• Face frame, Fringe, Blending layers
LINES, SECTIONS & ANGLES- Determines shape & technique

10. ELEVATION- Determines Technique
• Angle the hair is held from the head
• Elevation decides technique:
1Length ( Blunt ), Layers, Graduation
• Describes in degrees
• Between 0 and 180
• Below 90 builds weight
• Above 90 removes weight
• Be aware curl pattern & how much
hair shrinks as it dries

11. ELEVATION- Determines Technique
CUTTING LINE- Angle/Elevation used in your technique
Finger position, Finger angle, Cutting angle, Section angle
BUILDS WEIGHT REMOVES WEIGHT BUILDS WEIGHT/EMPHASIS

12. HAND POSTIONS FOR CUTTING ANGLES
-LAYERS
-1 LENGTH (BLUNT); GRADUATIONS
-GRADUATION; LAYERS

13. GUIDELINES- Below Parietal Ridge is EXTERIOR; Above is INTERIOR
STATIONARY-
All hair come to same point;
over direction can be used
TRAVELING/MOBILE-
Small section of guide moves to each
section through out the cut

14. OVERDIRECTION- Forward & Backward
• Combing hair away from natural falling
position
• Graduations, layers & 1 lengths ( Blunt )
• Backwards: maintains length in the front
• Forwards: maintains length in the back

15. HAIRCUTTING TOOLS
BLUNT/HEAVY OR CHOPPY LINE WISPY, SOFT LINE

16. HAIRCUTTING TOOLS
1. Clippers
2. Trimmers/Edgers
3. Sectioning clips
4. Wide-tooth comb
5. Tail comb
6. Barber comb
7. Cutting/Styling comb
1.
2. 3.
4.
5.
6.
7.

17. PARTS OF THE SHEAR
• Finger tang allows for proper
tendon alignment
• Try to keep holes lined up with
your cuticle to first knuckle
• Adjust pivot- Too tight: too
much tension on hair & hand.
Too loose: not enough tension,
inconsistent cutting, safety
hazard
• Still blade- remains still; only
thumb moves up & down

18. HOLDING YOUR SHEARS
• Holding shears properly
Moving THUMB ONLY
• Palming shears;
Holding comb

19. HAIRCUTTING SAFETY
• Palm the shears- prevent cutting yourself,
your guest or accidently cutting hair
• Do not cut past Second Knuckle- Tension
changes
• Take care around the ears- skin is thinner
• Adjust tension of shears
• Use razor guard
• Dispose of razor blades properly
• Blood spill kit- add extra gloves & ziplock
bags

20. SHEAR MAINTENENCE
• Shears need to be cleaned after
every guest
• Wipe with towel to remove
debris & hair
• Wipe with rubbing alcohol
• Lubricate with shear oil- at least
weekly
• Have sharpened when needed
• Use Clippercide for clippers
• Lubricate clippers

21. HAIRCUTTING CONSULTATION- Communication builds wealth
• D.E.P.T.H
• Scalp analysis & bone structure
• Growth patterns
• Speak to them, not the mirror
• When was their last cut
• How often do they get it cut
• How much effort do they put in at
home
• How often are they willing to maintain
• What products do they use at home
• Lifestyle: career, hobbies etc
• Face shape
• Can their desired result even be
achieved with their texture & density
• Be honest!!
• COMMUNICATE
density. elasticity. porosity. texture. hair history

22. HAIRCUTTING CONSULTATION- Communication builds wealth
• Instead of asking “ What do you have in
mind today?” ASK “What do you want to
achieve with your hair?”
• Ask what they like about their hair
now…What has been done in the past that
they DID NOT like…..What has been
done that they DID like
• Are you – The stylist- hesitant about the
goal? Be honest
• Is length a priority? Have guest describe
& show you her desired length
• Communicate with guest if they are
making a BIG change- make sure it is not
an emotional decision
• WATCH their body language and eyes
say/react
• REPEAT back what they said

23. 1. A game plan
2. A technique and end shape
3. What tools you will be using
4. What products you will be using
to shampoo, condition and style
• Use proper draping
• REMEMBER to always record
what you did & Products you
used/recommended!!
• Decide on:
HAIRCUTTING CONSULTATION- Communication builds wealth

24. TECHNIQUES
Your technique is determined by your elevation;
how you want your end result to look:
3 Techniques but endless possibilities!!!!!
• 1 Length, Layers, Graduation
4 Basic cuts that fall within those 3 techniques:
• 0 degrees
• 45 degrees
• 90 degrees
• 180 degrees
0 Degrees; 1 LENGTH
GRADUATION
LAYERS

25. VERTICAL MAP
• Sectioning/Parting for
control
• Allows you to work on
flatter surface within the
head shape
• Shows where the head
changes shape/ rounds:
about every 2 inches
• Teaches control &
consistency
CORNERBACK
SIDE

26. TECHNIQUES- 1 LENGTH
• Also known as BLUNT and 0 Degrees
• All hair falls to the same point
• NO ELEVATION
• Stationary guide
• Can use Overdirection
• Section angle is parallel to the floor
• Creates width & volume
• Makes fine hair appear thicker
• Draws eye side to side
• Weight line is at the perimeter
• 3 basic 1 lengths: square, round & triangle ( diagonal )

27. TECHNIQUES- 1 LENGTH
• Vertical parting- 6 Sections
• Horizontal subsections
• NO elevation; 0 degrees
• Minimal tension
• Stand with your section
• Size of subsection is
determined by density
• Mindful of hairline & ears
• Stationary guide
• Moisture saturation
WEIGHT LINE- 0 degrees
WEIGHT LINE- 0 degrees

28. TECHNIQUES- TRIANGLE/ DIAGONAL FORWARD 1 LENGTH
• Vertical parting- 6 Sections
• Horizontal OR Diagonal
subsections
• NO elevation; 0 degrees
• Minimal tension
• Stand with your section
• Size of subsection is
determined by density
• Mindful of hairline & ears
• Stationary guide
• Moisture saturation

29. TECHNIQUES- GRADUATION
• Also known as Stacked, Wedge, Pageboy
• Standard elevation is 45 degrees
• Over direction is used throughout the haircut
• Creates volume and emphasis/focal point
• Weight line is where “stack” forms
• Can be stationary or traveling guide
• Below occipital is “tapered”
• Graduation can live anywhere between 1 degree &
45 degrees

30. TECHNIQUES- GRADUATION 45 DEGREES
OVER DIRECTION TO CENTER BACK
• Vertical parting- 6 Sections
• Horizontal OR Diagonal
subsections
• 45 degree elevation
• Maximum tension
• Stand with your section
• Overdirection to centerback
• Size of subsection is determined
by density
• Cross check every 3-4
subsections
• Palm to palm
• Mindful of hairline & ears
• Stationary OR traveling guide
• Moisture saturation

31. TECHNIQUES- 180 Degrees
• Also known as “Long Layers” or Shag
• 180 Degree elevation
• All subsections are OVERDIRECTED
to top ( apex )
• Subtle movement in hair style
• Reduces weight but can give body
• Let length “fall out”
• Check for “Corners”/ Blending points
• Be aware of parietal ridge, density at
hairline & fringe area

32. TECHNIQUES- LAYERS 180 DEGREES
OVERDIRECTION- 180 degrees
PARIETAL RIDGE
Density determines
how far down
sectioning goes
OVERDIRECTION- 180 degrees
• Vertical parting- 6 Sections
• Horizontal OR Vertical
subsections
• 180 degree elevation
• Maximum tension
• Overdirection at frontal bone
• Stand with your section
• Size of subsection is determined
by density
• Mindful of hairline,ears,
parietal ridge
• Let length “fall out
• Stationary guide
• Moisture saturation

33. TECHNIQUES- 90 Degrees
• Also known at “Uniform layers”
• 90 Degree elevation
• Traveling guide
• Subsections are cut with round of the
head
• Adds volume on top
• Reduces weight/ taper sides & below
Occipital

34. TECHNIQUES- LAYERS 90 DEGREES
VERTICALSUBSECTIONS
• Vertical parting- 6 Sections
• Vertical subsection
• 90 degree elevation
• Cutting with “Round of the
head”
• Stand with your section
• Size of subsection is
determined by density
• Traveling guide
• Moisture saturation

35. TECHNIQUES- 45 into 90 Degrees
• Tapered nape
• 45 degrees into 90 degrees
• Traveling guide
• Connect 45 graduation to a 90 degree
layer
• Standard for “Pixie”
• “Mature Lady” hairstyle

36. TECHNIQUES- COMBINATION CUT- 45 INTO 90
VERTICALSUBSECTIONS
• Vertical parting- 6 Sections
• Vertical & or Diagonal
subsections
• 45 degrees; 90 degrees
• Maximum tension
• Stand with your section
• Size of subsection is
determined by density
• Mindful of hairline & ears
• Traveling guide
• Moisture saturation

37. HAIRCUTTING TIPS
• Clean partings: control, consistency
• Lines & sections
• Crown & nape/ hairline
• Around the ears
• Tension/ Shrinking
• Head position
• Moisture
• Guideline
• Cross check
• Use the mirror
• Check balance
• Stand in front of you

38. • Shrinks more than straight hair
• Minimal tension
• Naturally graduates itself
• Expands more than straight hair
• May need to be styled straight
before cutting
CURLY HAIR TIPS

39. • The bang or fringe area includes the hair that lies
between the two front corners.
• Be careful how far into the head your section ends
• Be sure the hair is either damp or completely dry.
• Do not use tension, allow for the natural lift of the hair.
CUTTING FRINGE ( BANGS )

40. • Gives a softer appearance than a shear
cut.
• The razor is a great option when working
with medium hair textures.
• When working with a razor, the ends are
cut at an angle and the line is not blunt.
• This produces softer shapes with more
visible separation, or a feathered effect,
on the ends.
• Guide above fingers.
• Avoid using on fine, coarse, wiry,
curly or damaged hair.
• Always use a guard.
• Always use a new blade.
• Keep hair wet.
• Hold razor at an angle; never
force.
RAZOR CUTTING/ TEXTURIZING

41. RAZOR CUTTING/ TEXTURIZING

42. • Used to cut or thin hair.
• Blends shorter hair to longer.
• Useful in texturizing.
• Only on wet hair.
SLIDE CUTTING

43. • Hair held in place with comb.
• Shear tips remove length.
• Method used to create short tapers.
• Works best on dry hair.
• Lift hair with comb; comb acts as guide.
• Do not hold hair between fingers.
• Shears and comb move up head together.
• Strive for continual motion.
SHEAR OVER COMB

44. TEXTURIZER & RAZOR OVER COMB
TEETH OF COMB FACE DOWN
TEETH OF COMB FACE UP

45. POINT CUTTING & NOTCHING
• Remove weight but weight line remains the same
• Soften lines
• Best on dry hair
• The more DIAGONAL or HORIZTONAL the more weight removed
• Stay away from scalp area

46. POINT CUTTING & NOTCHING

47. MENS CUTTING

48. MENS CUTTING- TOOLS

49. MENS CUTTING- TECHNIQUES

50. HAIRCUTTING
What did you learn?