This document lists various finishing faults that can occur in fabrics and their potential causes and remedies. Some common faults include wet squeezer marks from excessive pressure, GSM variation from inconsistent process parameters, bowing from uneven tension, skewing from improper feeding, shrinkage from high tension, overcompaction from excessive shoe pressure or overfeeding, unwanted marks from contact with dirty machinery, decolorized patches from chemical spills, pinholes from pins holding fabric, pilling from short fibers separating from yarns, water spots from wet fabric not drying quickly enough, and torn selvages from excessive tension. The remedies suggested aim to correct the specific causes, such as using a hydroextractor instead of squeezer rolls, ensuring consistent processing
Terry fabric is a knitted fabric with ring yarn or terry covering at one or both sides. It belongs to one of the fancy knitted fabrics. Terry fabric is characterized by soft touch, thick texture, excellent water absorption and heat retention. Terry fabric can be divided into single-sided and double-sided terry loop fabrics. The terry can form pattern effect on the knitting surface distributed according to some certain rules. Terry fabric after shearing or other process can be turned into fleece fabric or velvet fabric.
Terry fabric is a knitted fabric with ring yarn or terry covering at one or both sides. It belongs to one of the fancy knitted fabrics. Terry fabric is characterized by soft touch, thick texture, excellent water absorption and heat retention. Terry fabric can be divided into single-sided and double-sided terry loop fabrics. The terry can form pattern effect on the knitting surface distributed according to some certain rules. Terry fabric after shearing or other process can be turned into fleece fabric or velvet fabric.
Knowing the basics of raw material, yarn production process and the other factors influencing quality will put the sourcing manager at the same eye level as a spinner /supplier when negotiating quality issues.
As a consequence this puts the sourcing manager in the position to pay the right price for the corresponding quality level.
This kind of know-how supports a retailer enormously in his efforts to establish a reliable supply chain which is based on mutual understanding.
Knowing the basics of raw material, yarn production process and the other factors influencing quality will put the sourcing manager at the same eye level as a spinner /supplier when negotiating quality issues.
As a consequence this puts the sourcing manager in the position to pay the right price for the corresponding quality level.
This kind of know-how supports a retailer enormously in his efforts to establish a reliable supply chain which is based on mutual understanding.
Fabrics and sewing defects of woven apparel By Engr. Aqs Zilanisaranzilani
In the textile industry, woven fabric is produced by interlacing warp and weft yarn. Faulty woven fabrics hamper the total quality of woven garments such as shirts, pants, trousers, jackets etc.
In order to get the correct appearance and good performance of seams, various considering factors, such as, stitch, seam, feed system, needle, thread, etc. Have to be correctly selected and adjusted. The sewing defects or problems that may arise during sewing, sewing defects such as Problems of stitch formation, Puckering problems, and Fabric defects along the sewing line etc.
It’s My think As a textile engineer-
We should know about the Fabrics and sewing defects of woven apparel produced during woven apparel fabric manufacturing. As its importance, this presentation has shown those Fabrics and sewing defects of woven apparel with their images, Causes and Remedies.
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1. Finishing Faults and their remedies
1.Wet squeezer marks
Causes
These marks are caused due to excessive pressure of the squeezer rolls on the wet fabric.
Remedies
a). Use the padding mangle only for the application of the softener.
b). Use a hydro extractor (centrifuge) for the extraction to avoid the squeezer roll marks.
c).After extraction open the fabric manually to prevent crease marks in the damp fabric
2.GSM Variation
Causes
Roll to roll variation in the process parameters of the fabric like overfeed and widthwise stretching of the dyed
fabric on the stenter, calender and compactor machines.
Remedies
Make sure that all the fabric rolls in a lot are processed under the same process parameters.
3.Bowing
Causes
Uneven distribution of tension across the fabric width while dyeing or finishing the fabric.
Remedies
Bowing can be corrected by reprocessing the fabric by feeding it from the opposite end.
4.Skewing
Causes
Improper feeding of the fabric while compacting.
Remedies
Use a drop needle line as a reference line to keep the grain lines straight while feeding the fabric slowly on the
compactor machines.
5.Shrinkage
Causes
Shrinkage is primarily due to high tension during the knitting, dyeing and the finishing processes.
Remedies
Allow the fabric to relax properly before it is cut out.
Give maximum overfeed to the fabric during the processing on the stenter and compactor machines. 125
2. 6.OverCompaction
Causes
a. Excess shoe pressure.
b. Excess overfeed (compaction) given to fabric with respect to potential shrinkage.
Remedies
a. Potential shrinkage test.
b. Correct setting of machine.
c. Re-compaction with lesser over-feed.
7.Fabricwidthvariation
Causes
If the stretched width is vary from roll to roll while feeding the fabric in the stenter and compactor.
Remedies
The stretched width of the fabric should remain constant for each roll during finishing in the stenter and in the
compactor.
8.Unwanted markson fabric:
Oily stains with dust adhered to surface which makes the stains more prominent and difficult to remove, due to
contact with oil or grease covered exposed machine parts, careless handling could be another cause.
9.Decolorized patch on fabric:Caused due to
Chemical spillage on fabric.
Localized excess bleaching.
Localized excess enzyme wash.
Can be result into weakening of the fabric.
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3. 10.Pinholes :
Holes along selvage caused by pins holding fabric while it processes through tenter frame.
Major defect if pin holes extend into body of fabric far enough to be visible in the finished product.
11.SanforizePucker:
Results from uneven wetting out on sanforize.
Usually caused by defective spray heads.
Fabric will appear wavy or puckering when spread on cutting table.
Difficult to detect during inspection on inspection machine with fabric under roller tension.
12.Pilling:
Pilling is a common fabric defect occurring on knitted and woven fabrics.
In producing a yarn, long fibers tightly-twisted produce a serviceable yarn. When short stable fibers are mixed
into the yarn the result is a yarn that will not hold together. The short staple fibers will separate from the yarn
and curl up in a ball, forming what is referred to as a pill.
Pilling is accentuated by the friction of normal wear, washing and routine dry cleaning.
13.WaterSpots :
Usually caused by wet fabric being allowed to remain too long before drying; color migrates leaving blotchy
spots.
14.SelvageTorn :
Usually caused by excessive tension while processing through tenter frames.
15.Cutsor Nicks :
Caused by indifferent handling of scissors. snips or mechanical trimmers.
16.Seam Tears:
Frequently caused by the turning equipment used toreverse garments in finishing.
17.Soil:
Caused by oil, grease or dirt. Often times originating from a dirty work area or machinery not properly
cleaned
4. 18.Streaks:
Markings caused by some types of turn boards or defectively finished trimming.
19.InadequatePressing :
Caused by excessive heat or pressure resulting in poor pleating, fullness or twisting of a seam on garment
surface.
21.Pressing ProducingShineon Fabric:
Usually caused by excessive heat or incorrect type of pressing surface.
22.Loose Threads :
Loose threads will get wound on guide rollers forming ridgesin the processing machines and cause creases at
these places.
Also loose threads can cause problems of Dye /Print transfer in a padding / Printing application
23.Askewed or Bias:
Condition where filling yarns are not square with wrap yarns on woven fabrics or where courses are not
square with wale lines on knits.
24.Folding Defects :
Garment not Folded to Specifications
Garment not Folded with proper Materials:
Cardboard, tissue or other specified packaging materials omitted
Garments not Buttoned, Flys not