In the textile industry, woven fabric is produced by interlacing warp and weft yarn. Faulty woven fabrics hamper the total quality of woven garments such as shirts, pants, trousers, jackets etc. In order to get the correct appearance and good performance of seams, various considering factors, such as, stitch, seam, feed system, needle, thread, etc. Have to be correctly selected and adjusted. The sewing defects or problems that may arise during sewing, sewing defects such as Problems of stitch formation, Puckering problems, and Fabric defects along the sewing line etc. It’s My think As a textile engineer- We should know about the Fabrics and sewing defects of woven apparel produced during woven apparel fabric manufacturing. As its importance, this presentation has shown those Fabrics and sewing defects of woven apparel with their images, Causes and Remedies.

1. Fabrics and sewing defects of woven apparel
Assignmentsfor Presentation on
BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT)
Course Title: Advanced Apparel Manufacturing and quality control-1
Course Code- TEX-5113
Submitted by:
SARAN ZILANI
Student ID: 211-005-8111
Submitted to
Dr. Rafiqur Rashid
Assistant Professor (BUTEX).
Date of Submission: 09 December, 2021

2. Content
• Introduction.
• Definition.
• Types of defects .
• Woven fabric faults with their images , Causes and Remedies.
• Sewing defects with their images, Causes and Remedies.
• Conclusion.
Fabrics and sewing defects of woven apparel
Welcome to Presentation on:

3.  Introduction
• In the textile industry, woven fabric is produced by interlacing warp
and weft yarn. Faulty woven fabrics hamper the total quality of
woven garments such as shirts, pants, trousers, jackets etc.
• In order to get the correct appearance and good performance of
seams, various considering factors, such as, stitch, seam, feed
system, needle, thread, etc. Have to be correctly selected and
adjusted. The sewing defects or problems that may arise during
sewing, sewing defects such as Problems of stitch formation,
Puckering problems, and Fabric defects along the sewing line etc.
It’s My think As a textile engineer-
We should know about the Fabrics and sewing defects of woven
apparel produced during woven apparel fabric manufacturing. As its
importance, this presentation has shown those Fabrics and sewing
defects of woven apparel with their images, Causes and Remedies.

4. Definition:
• Weaving:
Weaving is the intersection of two sets of straight yarns, warp and weft, which
cross and interlace at right angles to each other. The lengthwise yarns are
known as warp yarns and width wise yarns are known as weft or filling yarns and
the fabric produced is known as woven fabric. The machine used for weaving
fabric is a loom. It is a complex work. A number of faults occur in fabric during
weaving process.
• Defect:
An imperfection that impairs worth or utility. Or, Want or absence of something
necessary for completeness or perfection. Or, A fault that spoils the material.
• Sewing:
Sewing is the activity of making or mending clothes or other
things using a needle and thread.

5. Types of defects:
1.Bad selvage,
2.Broken ends or warp,
3.Broken picks or weft,
4.Loose warp,
5.Loose weft or snarl,
6.Double-end,
7.Tight end,
8.Gout:,
9.Wrong end color,
10.Miss pick,
11.Double pick,
12.Weft bar,
13.Ball,
14.Hole,
15.Oil spot,
16.Tails out,
17.Temple mark,
18.Reed mark,
19.Slub,
20.A thick and thin place.
Various types of faults found in woven fabrics have mentioned below:

6.  The sewing defects can be classified in three
groups, such as:
1.Defects or Problems of stitch formation
2.Puckering problems, and
3.Fabric defects along the sewing line

7.  Woven fabric faults with their images , Causes and Remedies:
1. Bad or defective selvage:
Bad selvage in woven fabrics due to faulty weaving. Here,
the warp ends being set too far apart for the thickness of
the yarn or in the finished fabric.
Defective selvage in fabric
 If stretches or looseness is applied on
the picks yarn the bad selvedges is
occurred.
 Loose or Tight selvedge yarn in the
Beam.
Causes:
 During weaving loom operator should be
careful on the issues.
Remedies:

8. 2. Broken ends or warp:
A defect in the woven fabrics caused by a warp
yarn that was broken during weaving
or finishing.
Broken ends
Causes:
 If the yarn quality is low, breakage may
be occurred
If a warp yarn breaks and if the dropper
don’t fall on the dropper bar , then this
fault arise.
Remedies:
Operator should walk around the
machine to observe this problem.
 If the problem is in the dropper bar then,
we have to change that bar.

9. 3. Broken picks or weft:
A filling yarn that is broken in the weaving of
fabric.
Broken picks
Causes:
If the beat up motion is done before
insertion of full pick, this type of fault
may be occurred.
Remedies:
We have to reduce speed of the
machine.

10. 4. Loose warp:
This type of fault is produced in woven fabrics when
the tension of warp yarn is slow.
Loose-warp
Reasons:
If the warp yarn breakage during winding.
Remidies:
The warp tension in warping should be
equal and uniform

11. 5. Loose weft or snarl:
It is produced in woven fabrics due to
the looseness of filling yarn.
Loose weft or snarl
Causes:
 It happens due to the malfunctioning of
the programmable felling tensioner.
 Due to looseness of the filling yarn.
 The wrong alignment of Pre-winder to
fixed nozzle.
Remedies:
 The degree of the PFT have to be
perfect.
 The pressure of the main valve, relay
valve and relay nozzle should be perfect.
 The alignment of the pre-winder should
uniform and straight

12. 6. Double ends:
This kind of fault is produced in woven fabrics
when the two ends of warp sticks get together
after sizing.
Double ends
Causes:
If the receiver receive double yarn
instead of single yarn.
If the spindle don’t work properly.
It may be happens because of migratio
of a broken end to the adjacent reed spac
along with the neighboring end.
Remedies:
The spindle should be changed.

13. 7. Tight ends:
If the tension of warp yarn is more than the
other ends present in the loom then this type of
fault is produced in woven fabrics.
Tight ends
Causes:
 If the tension of a warp yarn is more than
the other ends present in the loom then
this problem arise.
 This over tension produced on warp
during warping and weaving.
Remedy:
To solve this problem we have to find these
ends and have to adjust the tension

14. Remedy:
The extra foreign matter can be pulled out with a plucker. Combing
in both direction rectifies the resultant patch.
8. Gout:
Figure 29: Gout
Causes:
 Improper loom cleaning.
 Unclean environment

15. 9. Wrong end color:
It is produced in the woven fabric due to
the wrong drawing of colored yarn.
Wrong end color
Cause:
It happens due to the wrong drawing with wrong colored yarn.
Remedies:
 Worker have to be very careful during doing the job of
drawing.
 After finding the faults we have to remove the faulty color
yarn and place a correct color yarn.

16. 10. Miss pick:
This kind of defect is produced in the woven
fabric when the operator starts a
stopped machine without picking the broken weft
from the shade.
Miss pick
Cause: If a worker start a stopped machine
without picking the broken weft from the
shed then this type of fault arise.
Remedy: We have to motivate the worker
to do job properly during time of pick
finding.

17. 11. Double pick:
It is produced in the woven fabric when the
cutter doesn’t work properly.
Double picks
Causes:
 If the receiver receive double yarn
instead of single yarn.
 If the spindle don’t work properly.
 It may be happens because of migration
of a broken end to the adjacent reed
space along with the neighboring end.
Remedies:
The spindle should be changed.

18. 12. Weft bar:
When the count of yarn varies from one cone to
another cone then a bar of weft will be appeared
in the fabric after weaving.
Weft bar
Causes: If count of yarn vary from cone to
cone or within the cone then a bar of weft
will appeared in fabric after weaving.
Remedy: To solve this problem we need to
buy yarn with uniform thickness

19. 13. Ball:
If the warp is too hairy then the reed
will create a ball in warp yarn in
between the reed and Heald shaft. If
the ball is small enough to pass
through the dent of reed then those
will form the ball in fabric.
Ball
Causes: If the warp is too much hairy .
Then the reed will create ball in warp
yarn in- between heald shaft and reed .
If the ball is small enough to pass
through the dent of reed then they will
form the ball in fabric.
Remedy: To solve this problem we
have to change the reed, or reduce the
tension of the wrap yarn

20. 14. Hole:
A fabric imperfection in which one or
several yarns are sufficiently damaged
to create an opening.
Hole
Causes:
 If we try to cut the balls of the fabric
which makes the look of the fabric poor
then it will be cut along with the warp.
This will create hole in the fabric. This
holes become bigger after the finishing
process.
 It can be happen due to the clash
between fabric and sharp edge of
machine parts.
Remedies:
 If we control the ball we can control hole.
 Worker have to careful during the
transportation of fabric from one floor to
another to avoid sharp point tingle with
fabric.

21. 15. Oil spot or stain:
Discoloration on a local area of a substrate that may be
resistant to removal by laundering or dry cleaning. It occurs
during spinning, weaving, or finishing. It is also often seen in
the woven fabric. It is also produced in woven fabric if too much
oiling has been done on the loom parts.
Oil spot
Causes:
 Due to carelessness of the maintenance
workers and the machine operatives, oil
spills over parts which come in contact with
the fabrics and stains are produced.
 Oil spot on the fabrics are caused by too
much oiling on loom parts from other
sources.
Remedies:
 By applying stain remover
 This stains can be removed by scouring.

22. 16. Tails out:
This kind of fault is produced in woven fabric if the
cutter doesn’t work properly.
Tails out
Cause:
If the cutter don’t work properly then this
kind faults arise.
Remedy:
To solve this problem either we have
change the degree of cutter or we have to
change the cutter blade

23. 17. Temple mark:
If the placement of the ring in the temple bar is
wrong or the pressure of the temple to the
fabrics is too high then this type of fault is
produced.
Temple mark
Cause:
If the placement of ring in the temple bar is
wrong or the pressure of temple to the
fabric is too high.
Remedy:
The setting of temple should be perfect.
And the bristle should be sharp and easy
going

24. 18. Reed mark:
In woven fabric, a crack between the groups
of warp ends either continuous or at intervals.
It’s maybe caused by the wrong drawing-in of
the warp or damage to the reed wires.
Reed mark in woven fabric
Causes:
A crack between groups of warp ends,
either continuous or at intervals, which
can happen due to improper spacing of
dents.
 If the dent of the reed is damaged then
we will have this kind of faults.
Remedy:
The reed have to be changed

25. 19. Slub:
If the yarn contains an unexpected slub in it then that
slub will appear in the fabric as a fault.
Slub
Causes: If the yarn contain unexpected
slub in it, then those slub will be appeared
in the fabric as a fault.
Remedy: The quality controller have to be
very careful about the quality of the yarn

26. 20. Thick and thin place:
Fabric defect in which fabric count varies more than a specified percentage from
the intended count. If the thick or thin place is more than one inch (2.54cm) wide
then it is considered a major defect in fabric grading.
A thick and thin place
Causes: This can happen due to not removing of spinners double, not piecing the end properly by
removing the lapped materials, accumulation of fluff in condensers, cradles and in the necks of the
top rollers.
Remedy: The yarn have to be checked by QC during the time of procurement to avoid these faults

27.  Sewing defects with their images, Causes and Remedies.
1.Defects or Problems of stitch formation
Looped stitches are usually caused by improper
tension. If the loop is on the upper side, it may be
corrected by loosening the top tension or by tightening
the lower tension. If the loop is on the under side, it is
usually best corrected by adjusting the upper tension.

28. 2. Puckering problems:
The major causes of puckering recognized by it
include: differential fabric stretch, differential fabric
dimensional instability, extension and shrinkage in
the sewing thread, structural jamming, and
mismatched patterns.
Reduce the tension applied to the thread
while it is being wound onto the lock stitch
bobbin. Set the needle thread tension to be
as light as possible while achieving a
balanced stitch at the same time. This will
reduce the amount of puckering while the
thread is stretched and improve the
sewability.

29. 3.Fabric defects along the sewing line
During of fabrics, fabric yarn damage or yarn
breaking along the sewing line is an unacceptable
defect. This type of sewing defects happen mainly
due to the needles, specially, if the sewing is done
with stanted, bunt or damages needles, then
fabric may be damaged. During sewing of fabric,
if the fabric is damaged, then strength of the
sewing will be weak, if the fabric damage is on a
large scale, then there also be fabric tearing along
the sewing line may occur
For remedies it Should be used better quality thread.

30.  Conclusion:
Though majority of the fabric faults occurred in the weaving section and sewing
faults occurred in the apparel section, all the other processes are also very
important to get the excellent quality faultless fabric and apparel. To minimizes
the value loss due to variety of defect occurring in the fabric , a manufacturer
should try to minimize fabric defect from every processing steps. An automated
defect detection and identification system can enhances the product quality and
results in improved productivity to meet both customer demands and to reduce
the costs associated with off quality. We also found the fabric and sewing faults
with its remedies in woven apparel. This assignment is very essential in our job
life.