CRM-Lecture-04 (Pattern & Marker Making).pptx

BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT)
Lecture: 4
Pattern & Marker Making
Prepared By:
Md. Rafiqul Islam Manik
Assistant Professor & Head
Dept. of AMM, BUFT
Course Title: Cutting Room Management
Course Code: AMM 2203

Definition of Pattern
In garment making, the word ‘pattern’ refers to a shape or
dice of different parts of a garment that is made by cutting
a piece of paper after sketching different types of
measurement of garments in it. According to this pattern,
fabric is cut and then garment is made. For industrial
production different patterns are made for different size and
a marker is made with these different patterns for a large-
scale production.
Lecture: 4

Objectives of Pattern Making
Now making a pattern has some functions. These are as
follows:
 To sketch the parts primarily according to the body on
paper.
 To make pattern for different size by increasing or
decreasing measurements.
 To make a marker for large-scale production.
 Finally to save time and money to make fast and cheaper
production.
Lecture: 4

Pattern Making Tools
 Straight Pin
 Straight Pin Holder
 Scissor
 Paper Scissor
 Fabric Scissor
 Pencil & Pen
 Ruler
 Curve Scale
 French Curve
 Hip Curve
 Hanger Hook or Ringer
 To hold patterns together for hanging on rod.
Lecture: 4

Pattern Making Tools
 Push Pin
 Scotch Tape
 Notcher
 Tracing Wheel
 Metal Weight
 Measuring Tape
 Tailor’s Chalk
Lecture: 4

Methods of Pattern Making
Pattern Drafting
It involves measurements derived from sizing systems or
accurate measurements taken from a person, model or dress to
create basic, foundation or design patterns. Measurements for
chest, waist, hip and so on, and ease allowances are marked on
paper and construction lines are drawn to complete the
pattern.
Pattern Draping
It involves the draping of a two dimensional piece of fabric
around a form, conforming to its shape, creating a three-
dimensional fabric pattern. Ease allowances for movement are
added to make the garment comfortable to wear. Advantage of
draping is that the designer can see the overall design effect of
the finished garment on the body form before the garment
piece is cut and sewn.
Lecture: 4

Pattern Grain Line
The pattern grain line is a line drawn on each pattern piece
to indicate how the pattern should align with the lengthwise
grain of the fabric. Regardless of where the grain line is
drawn on the pattern, it will always be placed on the fabric
so that the grain line parallel to the selvedge edge.
Lecture: 4

Direction of Grain Line
Vertical grain lines (lengthwise) are
drawn parallel to center for
garments cutting on straight grain.
Bias grain lines are drawn at an
angle to the center (45 degree angle
from true bias) for garments cutting.
Horizontal grain lines (horizontal)
are drawn at right angles to center
for garments cut on crosswise grain.
Lecture: 4

Grain line arrows
 Arrows placed at both ends of the grain
line indicate that the top of the pattern
may be placed in either direction along
the lengthwise grain line of the fabric
(for fabrics without special effect)
 An arrow placed at the top or the
bottom of the grain line indicate that
the pattern must be placed in one
direction only (for fabrics with special
effect)
Lecture: 4

Pattern information and Symbols
Pattern information can be placed in center of the pattern
or placed along the grain line, and on the right-side-up of
each pattern. The following information and symbols can be
used on patterns:
 Style and order number
 Grain line
 Pattern part (like: front, back, sleeve, collar, pocket etc.)
 Pocket placement
 Buttonholes
 Zipper placement
 Pattern size
 Number of pieces
Lecture: 4

Pattern information and Symbols
 Fabric identification
 Special information (like print, embroidery and their
placement etc.)
Lecture: 4

Pattern Grading
 Pattern grading is the process whereby patterns of
different sizes are produced from the original master
pattern by increasing or decreasing the measurements.
 This process can be performed manually or
automatically by a computerized system.
 Patterns are graded according to size charts which
present the sizes and the average measurements of the
population group for which the garments are
intended.
Lecture: 4

Definition of Marker
Marker is a set of patterns laid on a sheet of a paper in an
organized manner and marked according to the pattern
shapes & size to cut a lay of the fabric. So that fabric fallout
(fabric wastage) could be minimized. So, the marker is a
sheet of paper in which all patterns are marked in the best
possible arrangement.
Lecture: 4
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Objectives of marker making
There are different objectives of marker making. They are:
 By the help of marker making similar size and styles of
apparels are gained.
 For bulk production marker is essential.
 Marker making is the guide of fabric cutting.
 It helps to minimize the fabric wastages.
 It save the production time and cost
Lecture: 4

Points should be considered during Marker Making (….…1)
 Lay Length of fabric must be higher than marker length
(approximately ½” -1” in each direction for cutting
allowance).
 Lay width or fabric width must be higher than marker
width (approximately ½” -1” in each direction for cutting
allowance).
 When pattern pieces are laid down on the layer of fabric,
generally the grain line is parallel to the warp direction in
the woven fabric & wale direction in knit fabric.
 All the pattern pieces of a garment should be along the
same direction when laid down on an asymmetric fabric.
Lecture: 4

Points should be considered during Marker Making (….…2)
 Length of cutting table should be considered.
 Plan for garments production should be considered.
 The nature of the fabric and garments design should be
considered.
Lecture: 4

How to make an efficient marker
We can make an efficient marker if we can follow the
following Instruction:
 Should know about the appropriate width of a marker.
 The marker starts with the large pattern pieces. Then fits
the smaller pieces in the gap of the larger pieces. Thus the
fabric wastage is minimized and efficiency is increased.
 After that the patterns are shuffled in various directions to
reduce the marker length. It also helps to increase marker
efficiency.
Lecture: 4

Constraints/Limitations of Marker Making
These jobs are not easy to increase the marker efficiency.
There are many problems behind this. There are as follows:
 The nature of the fabric
 Style of the garments
 The cutting table size
Lecture: 4

Types of Marker
(i) Types of markers based on pattern
a) Single Garment Marker: In this marker there will be only
one size garment and the quantity will be one piece.
Basically we use this kind of marker for sample
development.
b) Ratio Marker: This marker carries all kind of sizes as per
the ratio which is given by the buyer in their purchase order
sheet.
Lecture: 4

(ii) Types of Marker Based on Fabric Characteristics:
a) One Way Marker: We use this kind of marker for the
fabrics which has special effect, special designs etc. Fabric
wastage of one way marker is always higher than other
markers.
b) Selvedge Marker: We make this kind of marker when we
face the selvedge shading problems. This problem is also
known as running shade problem. In this marker every major
part of a garment is set on one side of selvedge. By the
shading part of fabric we can make the hidden parts /
components of the garments. This is not most commonly
used marker types as the production rate is very low.
Lecture: 4

(ii) Types of Marker Based on Fabric Characteristics:
c) Check Marker: For check matching we need to make
check marker. This kind of marker is made when buyer needs
check matching. Check fabric will be yarn dyed or printed
and normally check fabric has repeat. So, the marker
planner has to know the check repetition before going to
plan the marker.
d) Block Marker: We use this type of marker for normal
fabric which does not have any special characteristics or
buyer’s requirement. Usually this type of marker is more
useful. When marker making will be started, indicate the big
sizes first then small sizes.
Lecture: 4

Fabric Losses with their Classification
The marker provides the dominant control of fabric usage
minimizing the fabric loss. During the cutting process two
(02) types of fabric losses occur ………..
1. Fabric Loss in the Marker: The marking loss arises due to
the gap and the non-usable areas at places between the
pattern pieces of a marker. Marker efficiency indicates
the amount of marking loss.
2. Fabric Loss outside the Marker: The various fabric losses
outside the marker can be broadly classified into
different groups. For example; ends of ply losses, loss of
fabric in the roll, edge losses, purchase losses etc. which
are discussed below:
Lecture: 4

2. Fabric Loss outside the Marker:
a) Ends of Ply Losses: Some allowances are needed in the
end of each pieces of fabric during fabric spreading &
cutting. Usually 2” inches wastage is needed. This wastage
varies with the characteristics of the fabric. This wastage
can be reduced by proper observing and controlling carefully
the allowance of the marker according to fabric type.
b) Loss of fabric in the roll: Fabrics usually come in roll
form in garments industries. Fabric spreading is done
according to marker length. Most of the time, it is seen that
fabrics are not exact to the multiple lays. As a result some
wastage of fabric is found in every roll.
Lecture: 4

c) Edge/Selvedge Losses: In normal practice during marker
planning, the width of the marker is kept less (at least 1”-
2”) than the edge-to-edge width of the fabric. The marker is
made according to the usable width of the fabric. Let the
fabric edge-to-edge width is 100 cm, and the marker width is
3 cm less than the fabric width. The edge loss is 3%. If the
fabric edge-to-edge width is 150 cm, the loss is 2%. Thus
wider width fabrics have other benefits besides improved
marker efficiency. Great care is needed to ensure that the
allowance is not excessive.
Lecture: 4

d) Purchase Losses: Woven fabrics and some knitted fabrics
are sold by length. Each fabric piece is measured by the
fabric supplier and a ticket is attached to each piece
indicating the length for which the customer is invoiced.
When there are errors in the measurement of these lengths
they are unlikely to be in favor of the purchaser. This loss
can be reduced by inspecting the length of the incoming
fabric and reporting the fabric supplier in case of yardage
short. So, fabric should be sourced from reputed suppliers.
Lecture: 4

Definition of Marker Efficiency
Marker efficiency means how much percentages of marker
area we can use for pattern pieces and marker efficiency
can be determined by the percentage of fabric fallout.
Fallout is the opposite of Marker efficiency. Higher the
fallout, lower the marker efficiency and vice versa.
 Increase number of garments marked will improve marker
efficiency.
 Wider width fabrics reduce the constraints on the marker
planner and more likely improve the marker efficiency.
 Ratio markers reduce the number of markers of plan.
Lecture: 4

Factors related to marker efficiency
a) Marker planner: Marker efficiency depends on
experience, honesty, sincerity and technological knowledge
of the marker planner. If he plans the marker for more than
one time, then there is possibility is there to improve marker
efficiency.
b) Size of garments: The more the number of the pattern
sizes are included, the more possibility to get more
efficiency.
c) Marker length: Higher the marker length, higher the
efficiency. It can also help to increase the production rate of
cutting room.
d) Marker width: The more the fabric width, this is easier to
plan or make marker which will increase the efficiency.
Lecture: 4

Factors related to marker efficiency
e) Fabric characteristics: Symmetrical fabrics are those
which are similar to all directions. Marker efficiency is good
in those types of fabrics. However, marker efficiency will be
less for asymmetrical fabrics.
f) Marker making method: We can generally make markers
by two methods. They are manual and computerized.
Computerized marker is more efficient when it is done
interactively with the planner. So, marker efficiency varies
from method to method.
g) Style of garments: There are some garments which have
only large patterns such as overcoat. If there is less number
of small components, the marker will be less efficient.
Lecture: 4

Methods of marker making in the garment industry
Marker making is a pre-preparation of fabric cutting during
huge amount of garments production.
There are two methods usually used for marker making in
the apparel industry. They are
1. Manual method or Traditional method
2. Computerized method or Modern method
Lecture: 4

1. Manual marker making method
In garments industry, manual market making is the oldest,
traditional and typically used method. In this processes
pattern maker make the all pattern pieces manually and
after that fabrics are spread on cutting table and set up all
pattern pieces directly onto the marker paper. Then mark by
chalk, pencil or pen. Manual methods are two types. Such
as:
a) Marker with full size pattern
b) Marker with minimized pattern
Lecture: 4

a) Marker with full size pattern
 In this method, all patterns are in full dimension according
to standard measurement.
 Hard patterns are placed on paper and then all patterns
are marked by turning different direction to minimize the
fabric usages.
 The tables, on which the markers are placed, are arranged
in such a way so that they do not tilt.
 It is suitable for minimizing the marker length.
Lecture: 4

b) Marker with minimized pattern
 Normally the patterns are made up of hard paper or plastic
sheet.
 For this method full size patterns are minimized 1/5 part
by a panto-graph.
 Marker is planned with small pattern pieces.
 When marker making is done, snaps are taken by camera.
 Planimeter is applied to examine covered area of pattern
lies in the marker.
 The marker efficiency is examined by marker area and
pattern area.
 All of the marker photograph and minimized patterns are
carefully stored.
Lecture: 4

Advantage of manual method:
 It is suitable for small production
 Investment cost is low.
Disadvantage of manual method:
 More time is required
 High labor cost
Lecture: 4

2. Computerized method:
If we have a Gerber, Lectra or Similar system, we
automatically get the marker efficiency. But in the Manual
method, you need to work it out. The information of the
patterns can be stored by different manners:
a) Digitizing system
 In this process, patterns are placed in the digitizing board.
 Every portion of the component is send to the memory of
the computer by clicking special mouse around the pieces.
 After digitizing all the patterns then the marker is made
accordingly.
Lecture: 4

b) Scanning system
 This is just like a photocopy machine. Patterns are places
on the scanning glass of that machine.
 The scanned copy of pattern enters into the memory of the
computer.
 Grading is done to make other sizes. And finally marker is
made after having all the sizes of pattern.
Lecture: 4

c) Interactive system
 In this process, all the pattern pieces are displayed in the
miniature form the top of the screen.
 There are two horizontal lines shown in the computer
indicating width of the marker and the marker man can
adjust the width as required.
 On the left side a vertical line is there which indicates the
starting of the marker and the right side remains open.
 Under the horizontal line, there are some data which
shows the marker length, marker width, marker efficiency
etc.
Lecture: 4

Advantages of Computerized System
 More suitable for large scale production than the manual
method.
 Marker efficiency is higher than manual.
 Least wastage of fabric.
 If required, print out of the marker could be got.
 Grading of the pattern could be done automatically.
 Few time consumption.
 Marker can be prepared quickly than manual.
Disadvantage of computerized system
 High investment cost
 Required skilled operator
Lecture: 4

CRM-Lecture-04 (Pattern & Marker Making).pptx

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