2. Syllabus
- Fabric Spreading Section
- Fabric Cutting Section
- Interlining
- Application of Computer in Apparel Manufacturing
3. Objects of FabricSpreading
Tocut garments in bulk and saving in fabric.
Tosavecutting time by cutting many plies at atime.
Toensureevery ply plain and flat.
Toreduce manufacturing cost by cutting in proper way by ensuringpro per fabric spreading.
Correctly aligned asto length and width
At correcttension
4. Requirementsof SpreadingProcess
Alignment offabric piles.
Fabric must beflat.
Elimination offabric flaws.
Correct plydirection.
Correct plytension.
Elimination ofstatic electricity.
Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting.
Avoidance of distortion in spread
Matching checksor stripes .
Easyseparate of the cut lay into bundles.
6. BasedontheConstruction
Straight Lay
Eachply of the fabric isspread in full length as
per the length of the marker.
Stepped Lay
Eachply of the fabric is not spread in full
length, that means they are arranged insteps
7. BasedontheDirectionofSpreading
All faceup/down
This type of lay is suitable for wide and open
face side of each ply of the fabric is placed
either of the top side or bottom side
Face to Face
The front side of the ply of the fabric is placed
face to face in pairs and for making the lay
Zig Zag Lay
Fabric spreading starts from one end asper the
marker length and reach the other end and
withoutcutting fabric end
9. ManualMethod
By Hand: Fabric roll is spreadedon the table by two laborers according to the
length & width of marker. Sometimes it is done by entering arod which is made
by wood or metal in the center paper table which is present in the center of the
fabric roll.
By Hook: In this processthe top of the table on which the fabric is spreaded is
set at 10º angle perpendicularly.The hook which placed on the upper face of the
table is 15cmlong and the hook is joined with one end of selvedge of the fabric.
Spreading truck with the help of operator: There is aspreading truck on the
one end of the spreading table in which the fabric roll is placed.Then the truck
is operated by hand from one end to the other end of the table & with the same
time the fabric is open out from the fabric roll and the fabric is spreaded
according to the length and width.
10. Mechanicalmethod
Semi automatic: Semi automatic
machine is working almost similar to
Hand process with spreading track
process becausethis methodsworking
technique and working prouder are
same but this process are working by
electric motor
11. Advantage of semi automatic……
The maximum fabric width which can be handled is normally 2m although extra wide machines are capable
of handling up to 3m.
Auto ply cutting device here.
Auto plies counting arrangements.
Auto catcher to hold the ends of the ply.
Auto fabric tensioning device.
Auto fabric leveling device,
Photo electric guide for selvedge alignment.
Fabric fault detector.
A platform is provided on which operator stands.
Maximum weight of the fabric roll can be 80kg to 675kg.
Maximum height of spread is 25cm.
Maximum spread speed 100m/min.
It has also rolled turning arrangement.
Auto loading and unloading device.
It is very useful.
12. disadvantage
• More time is required here.
• It has needed higher labor cost.
• It cannot be possible to make desired fabric spreading technique by using
this method.
• There is no sensor in the spreading head.
• Any kinds of fabric cannot be spread here.
13. Mechanicalmethod
Full automatic :Full automatic
fabric spreading machine is the
improvement of semi-automatic
spreadingmachine.There arealot
of advantages of this machine to
make fabric lay. Because,this
spreading machine is operated by
controlling with the help of micro
processor androbot.
14. advantages
High production is achieved by mechanical method.
Arrangements available for counting number of plies.
Cutting devices available at the end of each ply.
Auto leveler available to flat the fabric.
Photo-cells available for selvedge alignment.
Speed controller available to ensure uniform tension.
Grinding wheel available with the cutter.
Fabric loading and unloading device available for nonstop spreading.
A platform is available for the operator by which he/she can sit or stand during spreading.
Low labor cost.
Suitable for large scale apparel industry.
15. Splice
• During the fabric spreading process,if the fault detector machinegets
anyfault or damageon the fabric then the fabric must be cut by
width and start spreading from the edge of fabric alreadyspreadby
overlapping.Thiskind of overlappingiscalledsplice.
• Therearetwo types of splice:
Straight lineSplice.
InterlockSplice.
16. Splice
Straight LineSplice
This type of spliceis marked by astraight line
along the width of the spreadingtable.
Interlock Splice
This type splice is marked with two straight
lines along the width which are again joined
by crosslines.
18. Types of Fabric Package
There are different types of fabric package used in apparel industry, which are pointed out in the below:
Open fabric roll,
Folded fabric roll,
Tubular knitted fabric roll,
Hanging fabric package,
Folded fabric cuttled.
1. Open fabric roll:
Open fabric package or roll is formed by the open width fabric which is used for making woven garments. In
most of the time, fabric is supplied by wrapping over a tube in garments manufacturing industry which is about
7 to 8cm diameter. Sometimes fabric rolls are varied from 75cm to 3 meters where as the length of fabric is
usually 100 meters or more. Open fabric roll package is perfect for both manual and machine spreading.
19. 2. Folded fabric roll:
Folded fabric roll or package is generally used by retail seller. Here, fabric is wrapped over
1-2cm thick and hard board where as the fabric width is 70-80cm. this type of fabric cannot
be spread by using spreading machine.
3. Tubular knitted fabric roll:
In garments manufacturing industry, Most of the knit fabrics are found in tubular form and
those are supplied in roll form. Normally tube roll have the same width as the garments
width such as polo shirt or T-shirt. Here, fabric spreading machine is used to spread fabric
from the roll or package.
4. Hanging fabric package:
It is used for both woven and knitted fabrics but especially for velvet or pile fabrics. Here,
fabrics are placed in a special type of frame according to the length and width and should
kept in hanging form so that the pile is not crushed. Manual spreading is used for this types
of fabric package.
20. Requirements of Fabric Cutting
Precision of cut
To ensure the cutting of fabric accurately according to the line drown
of the marker plan.
Clean edge
By avoiding the fraing out of yarn from the fabric edge. Cutting edge
must be smooth clean. Knife must be sharp for smooth or clean
edge. Infused edge
During fabric cutting, the friction between the fabric and blade; the
blade produces temperature in the temperature may be up to
3000c.
Support of the lay
Surface of the cutting table depends on methods of fabric cutting.
The table surface should be capable to support the lay as well as
to ensure that all the plies are cut at a time during fabric cutting.
21. TYPES OF CUTTING METHOD
Fully Manual
Handoperated scissor
Manually Operated Power Knife
Straight knife
Band knife
Round knife
Die cutting
Notcher
Drill
Computerized Methods Of Fabric Cutting
Computer controlled knife cutting
Cutting by Laser beam
Cutting by Water jet
Cutting by Plasma torch
22. HAND OPERATED SCISSOR
Features:
First & oldest method of fabric cutting
Used for cutting one or two plies of fabric
Available to cut the fabric from left to right or right to left
Canbe cut by scissor
Needs more time & contain high cost
Used in tailoring & household purpose to cut fabric
23. STRAIGHT KNIFE
Features:
The elements of straight knife consistsof:
1. An electric motor
2. Stand
3. Abase plate usually on rollers
4. Handle
5. Knife
6. Knife Guard
7. Wheel
Knife is driven by electricpower
Grinding wheel is present to sharp the knife duringcutting
Blade edge: straight edge, wave edge, saw edge, serratededge
Straight edge is mostlyused
Blade stroke 2.5 to 4.5cm
Can cut heavy fabric such as canvas &denim
24. STRAIGHT KNIFE
Working Principal:
Two kind of powers are required to operate a Straight Knife
Motor power drive the reciprocating knife
Operator power drives the knife through the lay
The motor power needed is determined by
Height of the lay
Construction of the fabric
Curvature of the line being cut
Stroke of the blade
Greater power of the motor, greater blade movement to cut the
fabric
25. STRAIGHT KNIFE
Advantage:
Comparatively cheap & transferred easily from one place to
another place
Higher lay of fabric can be cut easily
Round corner can be cut more precisely then even round
knife
Production speed is very good & fabric can be cut from any
angle
Disadvantage:
Some time deflection may occur due to the weight o the motor
Knife deflection is high in risk, when lay height is too high
Sometime accident may happen
26. BAND KNIFE
Features:
Band knife comprises a series of three or more pulleys, powered by
electric motor
Cutting knife is endless in shape & flexible
Blade is usually narrower then on a straight knife
This method m/c is stationary but fabric is moveable
This is like saw mill cutter
27. BAND KNIFE
Advantage:
Used when a higher standard of cutting accuracy is
required
Extensively used to cut very sharp corners small parts
such as collars & cuff
Used more in men’s wear than ladies wear
Intensively risk of accident is low
Possible to cut 90˚angle of thefabric
Disadvantage:
Work load is high as m/c is stationary & fabric is moveable
Not suitable for cutting large amount of garments parts
Not possible to cut fabric directly
Fabric wastage is high
Power loss is high
28. ROUND KNIFE
Features:
Element of round knife:
Base plate & Electric motor
Handle for the cutter to direct the blade
Rotating circular blade
Blade diameter varies from 6-20 cm
Blade is circular
Blade is driven by electric power
Circular knife is driven by 1000-3500 cm
29. ROUND KNIFE
Advantage:
Suitable for single ply cutting as well as multi- layers (say 20-30 layers)
Suitable for small scale cutting
Suitable gentle curve cutting
Easy to operate
Useful for cutting layer parts of a garments
Disadvantage:
Not suitable for cutting very curve lines in higher no. of lays
Not suitable for higher production
Possibility of accident is high
Difficult to cut small component
Needs skilled operator
30. DIE CUTTING
Features:
Mainly two types of die cuttings are available namely: Presses &
Clickers
Main parts of all die cutting m/c are Blade, RamHead, Die,
Motor & Operating System of Ram
Die is made by metallic strip
Most useful to cut sharp & small parts
31. DIE CUTTING
Working Principal:
Die is prepared with metal strip according to the shape of pattern
Die press generally has a cutting die just penetrates the cutting pad in order
that the fibers of the lowest ply are completely separated
For die cutting, the spreader spreads a lay to the required placement of dies
The spread is cut into sections to allow transport to the cutting pad
The gap between two dies 2-3 mmare placed when die is taken to cut
fabric lay
32. DIE CUTTING
Advantage:
Extensively used to cut sharp corners of small parts of dress
accurately
Most useful to cut at any shape or any angle
Comparatively less time required
Best method of cutting knitted fabric
Disadvantage:
Fabric loss is high due to the need of block of fabric lay
Highlabor cost
Tochange the style quickly is impossible
Difficult to cut large components of dress
33. NOTCHER CUTTING M/C
Features:
Special type of cutting m/c & used in special case
Used to cut notch in the edge of some components
The invention of notcher m/c was done to make notch
The notch can be made in U-shape or V-shape
Advantage:
Special type of cutting m/c & used in special case
Useful to cut small notch to the fabric
Most useful to make consistency in notching
Disadvantage:
Only used to make notch
Thermoplastic fiber can not cut by this m/c
Time loss
Use of the m/c is limited
34. DRILL CUTTING M/C
Features:
Needed to mark on the end of components of dresses especially
for pocket & dart setting
This m/c contains a motor, base plate, drill, & spirit level
For tightly woven fabric, making of hole by drill is permanent for
long
In hypodermic drill some color is sprayed along with the hole so
that it can easy to find the marked place
Advantage:
Needed to mark on the end of components of dresses especially for setting pocket & dart
Make the hole permanently for long time.
Disadvantage:
Only used for making hole in the fabric especially for setting
pocket & dart
For loose woven fabric it can not make the hole permanentlyfor long time
35. COMPUTER CONTROLLED KNIFE CUTTING
Features:
This method provide the most accurate possible cutting at high speed
Marker is not necessary to put over the fabric lays during cutting
Cutting knife is oval shaped & very hard. Sharpness is also high & blade is made of
stainless steel
Cutting knife itself moves according to the direction of computer
memory
This m/c is CAM system m/c & works through CAD system
36. COMPUTER CONTROLLED KNIFE CUTTING
Advantage:
Very fast cutting operation
Very active cutting by computer controlled system
Suitable for very large scale production
Speed of can be controlled
Intensity of accident is low
No need of marker
Fabric can be cut 6-8 times than manual m
Less labor cost
Disadvantage:
Very expensive m/c
Higher maintenance cost
Skilled manpower is required
If correct disc is not loaded in the computer will be indicated
37. CUTTING BY LASER BEAM
Features:
This method, fabric is cut by a ray of light in a very fine spot using a laser
Radius of spot of light is 0.25 mm & high powerful
When the ray falls on a material, it generates heat on thematerial & cutting is done by vaporization
Fabric is cut at a speed of 13 meter per min
Cutting head is controlled by computer
Advantage:
Very fast cutting operation
Canbe cut in a proper line as the cutting head is controlled by computer
As the fabric is cut by ray off high so that no need of sharpening operation
Disadvantage:
Not suitable for cutting of multi-layer of fabric
For thermoplastic fabric the cutting edge should be fused
Very expensive cutting method
38. CUTTING BY WATER JET
Features:
This system, thin jet of water is passes through a nozzle in a very momentum
Pressure of water is 60,000 pounds per square inch
Water is worked as like as hard & sharp knife which can easily cut the fabric
A catcher in the bottom of fabric lays & it used with thesame speed & the same
direction of water jet
39. CUTTING BY WATER JET
Advantage:
Higher cutting speed
There is no need of knife to cut fabric so that no need of
sharpening operations
Better to cut hard material
Disadvantage:
Not suitable for higher depth of lay of fabric
Cutting edge of fabric is wetted by water
Sometimes water spot should be seen in the fabric
Need of filtering & deionization of water
Need of controlling the sound of jet
40. CUTTING BY PLASMA TORCH
• Features:
This system, fabric are cut by a thin through the nozzle whichis made by Argongas
One or more fabric plies can be cut
Most useful for cutting single ply of fabric
Fabrics are cut by placing in a table, the surface (85%) ofwhich must be place in a
perforated blankedplace
• Still now, this system is under research
41. CUTTING BY PLASMA TORCH
Advantage:
Automatic torch height control system
Automatic oxy-fuel gas control system
Automatic torch explosion system
Pneumatic band clamping
Standard auto-nesting package
Easily networked
Disadvantage:
Synthetic fiber not cut
Higher number of fabric lay is not cut
Need higher skill operator
Costly
42. Interlining
Interlining is a very important in apparel manufacturing. Interlining is one
kind of accessories that is used between the two layers of fabric in a garment.
To keep the different component or part of apparel in a desired shape, a kind of
fabric is used between the two ply of fabric by sewing or fusing is called
interlining.
Generally, interlinings are soft, thick, and flexible. It is made cotton, nylon,
polyester, wool and viscose. Sometimes finishing is necessary to improve its
properties i.e. shrink resist finish, crease resist finish.
43. FUNCTIONSOFINTERLINING:
To support thegarment.
To control the shape of the garment.
To control the area of the apparel.
To reinforce the components of the garment.
To make the apparel beautiful, strong and attractive.
To ensure the anticipated look, quality and effect of the fabric.
To improve garment performance.
Uses of Interlinings: Interlining is generally used in collar, cuffs, waist band,
front facing of coat, outerwear plackets, jackets, blazers etc.
44. TYPESOFINTERLINING
There are mainly two types of interlining are as follows:
Sewn interlining or non-fusible interlining.
Fusible interlining
45. NON FUSIBLEINTERLINING
The interlining which is used between two layers of fabrics directly by sewing
without heat and pressure is called non-fuse interlining.
This type of interlining is also called sewn interlining or non- fusible interlining.
For the preparation of sewn interlining a piece of fabric is treated
with starch and allowed to dry and finally sewn with main fabric.
Non fuse interlining is used for special case.
Non-fuse interlining use in “Flame Retardant” apparel.
It is used for making apparel for fire service people.
Specially used in embroidery machine.
46. Advantages of Non-fusibleInterlining:
To make flame retardant garment
Simple and easy technique.
No elaborate machine is required.
Possible to use in steel or re-rolling or highly heated
industry.
Disadvantages of Non-fusibleInterlining:
Quality is not good.
Not suitable for large production.
More time required.
High work load &labor cost.
47. FUSIBLEINTERLINING:
It is most used interlining. The interlining which is used
between two layers of fabrics by applying heat and
pressure for a certain time is called Fusible Interlining.
Fusible interlining is used for all kinds of apparel.
Also it is used in “Ready to wear” and “Bespoke garment”. It is
verypopular.
48. Advantages of Fusible Interlining:
Application process is very easy.
It has high productivity.
Fusing time isless.
It is cheap.
Performance is verygood.
Disadvantagesof Fusible Interlining:
High temperature isrequired.
Special care is needed during attaching interlining.
49. Requirement of Fusing
Fusible interlining contains the below properties:
1.Here, the fusing is done by using perfect temperature so that there is no hampering
of fabric color.
2.The maximum temperature of fusing should not be more than 175°
3.The minimum temperature of this interlining should not be less than 110°
4.The minimum temperature should be applied during fusing otherwise it will create problem in
the bonding between garments fabric and interlining during washing or end using of garments.
5.The bond of fusible interlining should not be opened or hampered due to washing or
dry cleaning.
6.After completing this type of interlining it should contain the stiffness and drape properties
of garments.
7.The color of fusible interlining must be white or transparent, but it can be different in color
according to the fusing requirements.
8.This type of interlining should be done as that the color of garment cannot be changed due to
the color of interlining.
9.The interlining should not be toxic to the human body during the end use of garments.
50. TYPESOFFUSIBLEINTERLINING:
On the basis of resin coating and its properties fusible
interlining can be classified as follows:
i. Polyethylene coated interlining
ii. Polyamide coated interlining
iii. PVC coated interlining
iv. Polyester coated interlining
v. Polypropylene coated interlining
vi. PVAcoated interlining
51. PolyethyleneCoated Interlining:
Polyethylene is used asresin coating.
The effect of varying the density of the
resin is to give a greater resistance to
dry cleaning solvents and a higher
softening pointwith increasing density.
This type of interlining is used in collar,
cuff of shirt.
The fabric attached with this type of
interlining can be washed inwater.
52. Polyamide Coated Interlining:
Polyamide is used as resin
coating.
Poly-amides
widely used
are very
in dry
cleanable garments.
High temperature fusing
is done for the garments,
which are washed with
water at 60ºc.
53. PVC Coated Interlining:
Poly vinyl chloride isused as resincoating
This type is suitable for both dry cleanable and washable
garments.
PVC coated interlining
is widely
making the
used for
coat type
garments.
54. Polyester Coated Interlining:
Polyester is used as resin coating
Polyester resins are used in dry
cleanable and washable garments
because polyester is less water
absorbent than polyamide.
It can be used as in all types of
garments
This is called idealinterlining
Available in market but costly in
price
55. Polypropylene Coated Interlining
Polypropylene coated
interlining. The resin is
similar to the properties
of polyethylene coated
interning
Comparatively high
temperature fusing is
done.
The fabric attached with
this interlining can be
washed with water
56. PVACoatedInterlining
PVAcoated interlining. Poly vinyl acetate is used
as resin coating
PVA coated interlining is not dry cleanable and it
has limited washability
Low temperature and pressure is required.
Basically it is used between the leather and fur
materials.
The resin is normally in the form of a continuous
plasticized coating on the base fabric.
This type is rarely used in garments industry
57. Conditions of Fusing
• Temperature: There is a limited range of temperatures that are
effective for each type of resin. Too high a temperature causes the
resin to become too viscous, which could result in the resin being
forced through to the right side of the cloth
• Time: Time is the only time element of any value during the fusing
process is when the top cloth and fusible are under pressure in the
heating zone of the machine.This time cycle for a particular fusible is
determined by :
• Whether the fusible has a high –or low melt resin.
• If a high or heavy substrate is being used.
• The nature of the top cloth being used, thick or thin, dense or open.
58. • Pressure: When the resin is viscous, the pressure is applied to the
top cloth and fusible assembly to ensure that :
• Full contact is made between the top cloth and fusible.
• Heat transfer is at the optimum level.
• There is an even penetration of the viscous resin into the fibers of the top
cloth.
• Cooling: Enforced cooling is used so that the fused assemblies can
be handled immediately after fusing. Cooling can be induced by
various systems. Including water-cooled plates, compressed air
circulation, and vacuum.
59. Available computer technologies
Examples of computer systems used in the textile and apparel
industry include:
Computer Aided Administration (CAA) – computers are used for
marketing, sales order processing and stock control.
Computer Aided Design (CAD) – computers are used for
developing designs, pattern making, pattern grading, marker
production and lay planning.
Computer Aided Manufacture (CAM) – computers are used for
store design, lay planning and cutting, sewing and pressing.
Computer Integrated Manufacture (CIM) – a system that uses
computers at every stage of planning, design and manufacture.
Electronic Point-of-Sale (EPOS) – a computerised system that
speeds up sales transactions and monitors stock levels.
60. Lets take a
close look of
CAD and
CAM
CAD ( Computer Aided Design):
-to aid the product design from conceptualization
to documentation
- creation
- modification
-analysis
-optimization
CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing):
-planning
-manufacturing
- control
61. Applications of Computer in Apparel
Manufacturing
Modern Computer
Technologies
Designing
3D Prototyping
Spreading
Cutting
Industrial Engineering
Selling
64. 3D Prototyping in Sampling……
• Conventional sampling method has been shifted towards a change and now-a-
days 3D Prototyping is used in sampling section using 3D CAD software.
• 3D CAD is the communication bridge between the buyer & the designer as buyer
is allowed to give immediate feedback.
• Apparel industry is benefited as less time is required for sampling approval.
• No need of Color sample and Size set sample in terms of 3D prototyping.
65. CAM for Spreading and Cutting Section
Fullyautomatic Cutting Machine:
Therearealot of advantages of this machine to make
fabric lay. Because,this spreading machine is operated by
controlling with the help of micro processorandrobot.
66. Continue…..
Computerized Methods Of Fabric Cutting
Computer controlled knife cutting
Cutting by Laser beam
Cutting by Waterjet
Cutting by Plasmatorch
67. Computer in Industrial Engineering
Department…..
•Used for recording day to day reports.
•Used in Unit Production system.
•Used for workplace Layout Designs.
•Used for different calculations.
68. Computer in Selling
Electronic Point-of-Sale (EPOS) – a computerized system that monitors
warehouse and retail stock levels.
Retailing shops in worlds most recognized fashion cities use 3D body
Scanning for attracting consumers towards new fashion products and giving
immediate feedback to the manufacturing industries either to go for the
bulk production or not for that style.
69. CIM (Computer Integrated
Manufacturing)
• A system that uses computers at every stage of planning, design and
manufacture.
• Transferring information between various sections of the industry such
as between Production floor, Sampling section, Accounting, Human
Resource department, Merchandising department or so on.
70. Introducing with available facilities of some
specific software
Lectra and
Diamino
• Used in cutting
patterns for
clothing.
• Grading
• Used for marker
making
71. Optitex
• 1. O/DEV
• APPLICATION:
• For 2D design and 3D visualization modules in a
single platform to create, tailor and digitize patterns.
• 2. O/PRO
• APPLICATION: Contains tools for product
development such as marker making, cut plan and
automatic nesting.
• 3. O/SEL
• APPLICATION: Used in solutions for sales and
marketing, such as using 3D images for viewing and
buying collections.
• The current module is the OPTITEX Digital
Collection, an online app to view full 3D collections.
72. Gerber
Technology
OMEGA CP 6.0
• Design and production software. It is used to
take design ideas through to high-quality output
using cut-vinyl or digital imaging.
• EDGE FXTM
• Thermal Printer for printingdesigns.
ART-Path &Auto-Curve
• Used in flatbed cutting system
73. 3D body
scanning
technology
• Leaser Scanning
• White light scanning
• Image processing scanning
• Milimeter-wave rader
• Digital tape measurment
74. Laser
scanning
• Leaser to project on to human body one or more
thin & sharp stripes simultaneously
• Light sensor acquires the scans & by applying
simple geometrical rules the surface of human is
measured
• The leaser scanner unit which is composed of the
leaser ,the optical system & light sensor is
moved across the human body is digitize to
surface
75. Benefits of Computerized
Technologies…..
• Reduction of processing time.
• Reduction of manpower required.
• Increase flexibility.
• Increase Product Quality.
• Maintaining Buyer Lead time.
• Innovating newer design.
• Rapid Information Transfer.
• Increase Buyer Morale.