This document provides information about the various departments in a garment manufacturing unit. It discusses the responsibilities and processes of key departments like merchandising, sampling, fabric store, trims and accessories store, spreading and cutting, sewing, washing, quality assurance, finishing and packaging, and maintenance. It also describes the process flow in garment manufacturing which includes steps from production order placement to shipment. Specific processes in merchandising, sampling, spreading and cutting are explained in detail.

1. INSTITUTE OF SCIENCE, TRADE &
TECHNOLOGY (ISTT).
Slide Show about Various department of
Garments Industry & Responsibility
Md:RakibulHasan. B.sc in Apparel Manufacturing & Technology.
Session:2013/2014. Email:rakibmr786@gmail.com

4. INTRODUCTION TO GARMENT MANUFACTURING
 Garment manufacturing is an assembly- oriented activity with a great range of raw
materials, product types, production volumes, supply chains, retail markets and associated
technologies.
 Companies range from small family business to multinationals.
 The clothing industry is labor intensive industry.

5. Merchandising
department
Sampling
department
Fabric store
department
Trims and
accessories store
department
Spreading &
Cutting
department
Sewing
department
Washing
department
Quality
Assurance
department
Finishing &
Packaging
department
Maintenance
Department
Finance and
Accounts
Department
HR/Admin
Department
Departments in garment manufacturing unit

6. PROCESS FLOW IN GARMENT MANUFACTURING
UNIT
Buyer- Supplier
Meeting
Production
order placed
Sampling
BOM
generation for
po
Raw material
procurement
Raw material
inspectionFabric washing
Pre production
sample
Production
Shipment
sample Finishing Packing
Shipment

8. PROCESS FLOW IN MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
Receipt of the
tech pack
BOM draft for
sampling
Pattern making
Raw material
procurement
Raw material
inspection
Proto sample
development
Getting
approval on
proto sample
Fit sample
making
Getting the fit
sample
approved
BOM draft for
production
Approval
sample
development
Order approved
for production
Getting
approvals on
size set samples
Raw material
procurement
R aw material
inspection
GPT/FPT to
conform to
standards
Approval on pre
production
sample
Order file
transferred to
the production
department
Follow up with
the production
department
Send shipment
samples to the
buyer
Follow up with
the production
department till
delivery

9. RESPONSIBILITIES OF A MERCHANDISER
Merchandiser
Internal & external communication
Sampling
Preparing internal order sheets
Accessories & trims
Preparing purchase orders
Getting approvals on lab dips and bit looms
Advising and assisting production and quality department
Mediating production and quality departments
Helping documentation
Taking responsibility for inspections
Giving shipping instructions and following shipment
Source: http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/36/3516/merchandising-in-an-apparel-industry1.

11. RESPONSIBILITIES OF SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
 Getting clarifications about style details from merchandiser.
 Checking pattern’s workability.
 Preparation of different samples and getting the buyer’s approval.
 Informing quality related problems, encountered during preparing samples, to QC.
 Minimizing operations and consumption.

12. TYPES OF SAMPLE PREPARED
• This is the first sample which is made for any style by most of the buyer.
• Design development is either done by buyer or factory
• The main purpose is to take the decision to proceed with the same line or not.
Design development
• Fit sample is made and send to conform the fit of the garment on live models or on dummy and
for approval of construction details.
• The fabric used for fit sample production is the actual fabric which is going to be used for bulk
production or sample yardage fabric is used.
Fit sample
• In order to promote the new style in the market normally buyer asks for photo shoot sample.
• Buyer uses this photo for marketing purpose either on catalogue or various media like, print, TV
or websites to see the response of the consumer.
Photo shoot sample
• The main purpose of salesman sample is to collect the order from the retailers.
• In Sales man sample actual accessory, actual fabric is used or sample yardage need to be used.
• This sample also very important stage of sampling as the sales of buyer depends upon this sample
presentation, look, feel of fabric is important.
Sales man / Marketing
/Showroom sample

13. TYPES OF SAMPLE PREPARED
• The main purpose of size set sample is to check the factory's capability to make the
sample in all sizes
• 1-2 samples (or quantity specified by buyer) of each size need to send to buyer.
Size set sample
• The main purpose of GPT is to perform the physical and chemical testing on garment to
ensure the performance of the garment.
• GPT Sample is sent to 3rd party inspection and results are sent to both factory as well as
buyer.
• The tests done on garments are: Shrinkage, Color Fastness, Seam performance etc.
GPT sample (Garment
Performance Test)
• PP sample is considered to be a contract between the buyer and the factory.
• It has to be made in original fabric and trims
• Washing, embroidery and printing should match to actual.
• PP Sample is the standard for production and bulk production garments should be
identical to PP sample.
• The factory can start the production of bulk garment only after the approval of
preproduction sample.
Pre- production sample
• Wash sample is made and submitted to buyer for assessment of feel and handle of fabric
after washing.
Wash sample
• The top of production is sent to the buyer as soon initial pieces are come out of sewing
line.
• In TOP sample Buyer tries to evaluate the actual manufacturing of the style.
• Buyer check whether bulk production is as per submitted sample or not.
TOP sample (Top of
Production)
• Few buyers may ask for the shipment samples which factory needs to pull form the actual
shipment and sent to buyer.
• The main purpose of this sample is to assure buyer about the actual shipment dispatch.
Shipment sample

15. Functions of the fabric store department
 Receive the fabric as per BOM
 Fabric inspection (four point system)
 Conduct fabric test (e.g. Shrinkage, color fastness etc.)
 Issue to the production department as per the requirement

16. FABRIC AUDIT PROCEDURE
 10% random inspection for sampling or lining or net
fabric.
 Inspection for production order fabric as per buyer’s
requirement.
 Perform GSM cutting.
 Perform shrinkage test.
 Check the fabric for the bowing or skewing.
 Check fabric roll for the defects.
 Allocate points to the defects.

18. Functions of the trims and accessories department
 To receive incoming material.
 To check material for attribute & variables.
 To arrange the incoming material in allocated racks.
 To issue trims as per BOM for sampling and production & other
material as per requirement.
 To maintain a record of incoming & outgoing material.

20. Spreading and cutting flow process
Planning Spreading Cutting
Preparation for
sewing

21. Planning
Spreading
Cutting
Preparation
for sewing
Spreads
Markers
Production
Manual
Machine
Machine
Manual
Ticketing
Bundles
Spreading and cutting flow process

22. Planning
Spreads Markers Production

23. CUT ORDER PLANNING
It translates customer orders into cutting orders
 minimize total production costs
 meet deadlines
 seek most effective use of labor, equipment, fabric and space

24. RESPONSIBILITIES OF CUT ORDER PLANNING
 Examining incoming orders and piece goods width and availability
 Determining volume, size ratios, and sectioning procedures for marker making
 Determining whether file markers are available or new ones are needed
 Developing specifications for optimum marker making and fabric utilization
 Determine most effective use of spreading and cutting equipment and personnel
 Issuing orders for marker making, spreading and cutting

25. Cutting orders
leads to
Marker planning Lay planning

26. MARKER PLANNING
 The results of cut order planning are cutting orders that direct marker planning and cut
planning.
 The purpose of marker planning is to determine the most efficient combination of sizes
and shades for each order and to produce the best fabric yield and equipment utilization.
 One cutting order may require several markers to achieve optimum efficiency.
 A lay is a stack of fabric plies that have been prepared for cutting.
 Lay planning is the basis of managing cutting room labor and table space.
 Spreading and cutting schedules are affected by:
 table length,
 type of equipment,
 spread length,
 spreading time and
 cutting time.

27. Marker
 is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for a specific style and the sizes
to be cut from a single spread.
Marker making
 is the process of determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a specified
style, fabric, and distribution of sizes (requires time, skill and concentration)

28. MARKER MAKING
 Marker making is a critical step in the manufacturing process.
 By retaining strict control over this critical step, they keep the fabric consumption as
low as possible.
 It also ensures that the issues that affect quality will be given proper attention. These
include placing patterns on grain, keeping patterns paired, and attending to details
such as drill holes and notches.
 Depending on the relative efficiency of each marker produced, the company may save
or waste thousands of dollars a year.
Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, “Pre-Assembly Processes – The Cutting Room Marking, Spreading, Cutting and
Bundling”, The Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product Development Approach, May 2005

29. Markers types:
 Blocks or Sections
 Blocked or sectioned markers contain all of the
pattern pieces for one style in one or two sizes.
 Continuous
 Continuous markers contain all the pattern
pieces for all sizes included in a single cutting.
MARKER MAKING
Block or section marker
Continuous marker

30. MARKER MAKING
Markers types:
 Open marker
 Marker made with full pattern pieces.
 Closed marker
 Marker made with half garment parts pieces for laying along the folds of the tube (tubular knit).
Closed marker

31. Marker making
Manually produced
Computerized marker
making (CAD)

32. Manual marker
 Created on marker paper or directly on fabric ply
 Tracing by pencil or tailor’s chalk.
 Time consuming.
 Subject to errors. (pattern overlap, grain line, poor line definition, omission of pcs.)
 Accuracy depends on individual’s skill.
MARKER MAKING

33.  Accurate
 Shortest response time.
 Direct or digitized.
 Manipulate images to determine best utilization. No overlapping/no omissions
 Parameters (style #,size, etc.) for markers are entered into the computer.
 Can be printed/recalled/modified.
 Criteria can be set by technician. Can be used to determine fabric requirement.
Computerised marker
Marker making

34. MARKER MAKING
Area of patterns in the marker plan X 100%
Total area of the marker plan
 It is determined for fabric utilization
 Minimum waste
Marker Efficiency
Factors affecting marker efficiency
 Fabric characteristics (fabric width, length of design repeat etc.)
 Shape of Pattern pieces (large pieces – less flexibility)
 Grain requirements

35. SPREADING
 Spreading is the processes of superimposing lengths of fabric on a spreading table cutting
table or specially designed surface in preparation for the cutting process
 Spread or lay is the total amount of fabric prepared for a single marker
Requirement of spreading
 Shade sorting of cloth pieces
 Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability
 Alignment of plies
 Correct ply tension
 Elimination of fabric faults
 Avoidance of distortion in the spread
Spreading equipment
 Spreading surfaces ( table, pin
table, vacuum table)
 Spreading machines

36. Spreading equipment
 Spreading surfaces ( table, pin table, vacuum table)
 Spreading machines
SPREADING

37. Spreading
Manual Machine

38. MANUAL SPREADING
 In manual spreading, fabric is drawn from
its package which, if it is a roll, may be
supported by a frame and carried along the
table where the end is secured by weights
or by clamps.
 The operators work back from the end,
aligning the edges and ensuring that there
is no tension and that there are no
wrinkles.

39. MACHINE SPREADING
 Spreading machines carry the piece of fabric from end to
end of the spread, dispensing one ply at a time on the
spread.
 Spreading machines may include:
 A motor to drive
 A platform on which the operator rides
 A ply cutting device with automatic catcher to hold the ends of ply in
place
 A ply counter
 An alignment shifter actuated by photo electric edge guides
 A turntable
 A direct drive on the fabric support, synchronized with the speed of
travel, to reduce or eliminate tension in the fabric being spread.

40. Spreading Mode
Nap one way & face
one way spreading
Nap either way &
face to face
spreading
Nap one-way face to
face spreading
Nap either way &
face one way
spreading

41. SPREADING
Spreading Mode: Nap one way & face one way spreading
 Most common spreading method that can also be done manually.
 Fabric roll is kept on a roller stand and fabric end is being pulled by two spreading
operators (thus unwinding fabric from freely rotating roll) walking along both sides of
cutting table.
 While using machine, the lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine carries
the rolls along table thus unwinding and spreading the fabric in the process.
 Every layer has to start from same end thus spreading machine has to come back to
starting position without spreading the fabric. This return movement of spreading
machine is called as “dead heading”
Face one way Nap one
way
Source: Prabir Jana, “Spreading & Cutting of Apparel Products”, 2005

42. SPREADING
Spreading Mode: Nap either way & face to face spreading
 The quickest spreading method while using spreading machine.
 Difficult to achieve manually.
 The machine carry the fabric roll while the end is being held in place by catcher,
at layer end fabric is not cut just folded and held by another catcher while the
fabric is being laid by the machine during it’s return movement also.
Face to
face
Nap either
way
Source: Prabir Jana, “Spreading & Cutting of Apparel Products”, 2005

43. SPREADING
Spreading Mode: Nap one-way face to face spreading
 Most time consuming method of spreading.
 The lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine carries the rolls along table
thus unwinding and spreading the fabric in the process.
 At layer end the fabric is being cut, turntable rotate the fabric roll by 180 degree and
return back to starting position without.
 Now from the starting end the second layer is being laid face to face.
Face to
face
Nap one
way
Source: Prabir Jana, “Spreading & Cutting of Apparel Products”, 2005

44. SPREADING
Spreading Mode: Nap either way & face one way spreading
 The lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine carries the rolls along table
thus unwinding and spreading the fabric in the process.
 At layer end the fabric is being cut, turntable rotate the fabric roll by 180 degree and
start spreading the second layer from the opposite end face one way. There is no dead
heading by the machine in this spreading mode.
Nap either
way
Face one way
Source: Prabir Jana, “Spreading & Cutting of Apparel Products”, 2005

45.  Labour cost
 Fabric waste
 Splicing loss
 End loss
 Width loss
Spreading costs
SPREADING

47. Cutting
Cutting
Manual
Scissors
Machine
Portable cutting
knives
Straight
knife
Round
knife
Stationary
cutters
Band
knife
Die
cutting
Servo
cutting
Plasma
cutting
Water jet
cutting
Laser
cutting
Position
markers
Notchers
Drills and
thread
markers

48. CUTTING
Scissors

49. Straight knife
Power system
Cutting blade
Blade guard
Handle
Up and down movement
Sharpening
Base plateRound knife
One way thrust as the circular
blade makes contact with the
fabric
CUTTING
Portable cutting knives