This document provides information about basic sewing machines used in the garments industry. It begins by defining a sewing machine as a machine that stitches fabric and other materials together using thread. It then discusses the basic features of sewing machines, including their speed, electronic controls, and programmable sewing sequences. The document outlines the two main types of sewing machines - manually operated and electrically operated industrial machines. It proceeds to describe several specific types of sewing machines, their key specifications, and common uses. Finally, it concludes with tips for properly maintaining sewing machines.

1. Ashikur Rahman Ranok
Bgmea University of fashion &
Technology(BUFT)

2. What is Sewing Machine?
• A sewing machine is a machine used to stitch fabric
and other materials together with thread.
• A sewing machine is a machine which does all the
stitches automatically, so it's easier and quicker than
hand stitching.
• A sewing machine is a textile machine used to stitch
fabric, cards and other material together with thread.

3. 1. Basic sewing machines in garments industry are used for
numerous applications.
2. Generally available in three versions :
i. Sewing with light materials.
ii. Sewing with medium materials.
iii.Sewing with heavy materials.
3. Speed up to 6000 s.p.m with electronic controls for
acceleration.
4. Electronically controlled thread cutting, needle positioning,
back tacking mechanism through the foot pedal, foot lifting
system available in this machines.
5. Programmable sewing sequence via a micro processes for
repetitive operation.
6. A great variety of feed systems, attachments and apparatus
available to make the machine more versatile.
Features of Basic Sewing Machines

4. According to the operating system, there are two types of
sewing machines:
1. Manually operated sewing machines :
 Driven by physical energy.
 Used for domestic and tailoring purposes.
 Less production, but more laborious.
 Low cost.
1. Electrically operated or Industrial sewing machines :
 Usually driven by electric power.
 High productivity.
 Used in garments industry.
 Cost is high.
Types of Sewing Machines

5. Electrically operated/Industrial Sewing Machines
 At present there are used two types of electrically operated
sewing machines in garments industry :
o Semi-automatic electrical sewing machines.
o Computerized sewing machines.
 Most common manufacturer of electrical/industrial sewing
machines (semi-automatic) are given below:
Brand Name Made in
JUKI Japan
BROTHER Japan
SINGER England
BUTTERFLY China
SiRUBA Taiwan
 There are various types of electrically operated or Industrial
sewing machines. Among them, features of some most usable
machines are described below :

6. o No. of needle : generally 1 needle or 2 needles.
o SPM : 1500 – 5500.
o Stitch Length : 5 mm in Juki DDL 5500 Model.
o Automatic thread cutting and bobbin winding.
o Edge cutting system.
o More secured sewing.
o Most commonly used for sewing of woven
garments.
1. Lock Stitch or Plain Stitch Sewing Machine

7. Fig 1 : Lock Stitch Machine

8. o Two types : Single Chain Stitch and Double Chain
Stitch.
o No. of needle: One or more
o No. of thread : One or more
o SPM : 1800 – 6000
o Stitch Length : 1.4 mm to 4.5 mm
o Automatic thread trimmer.
o Various types of feed mechanism is adjusted to the
machine.
o Used for both woven and knitted fabrics, specially
to sew jeans or denim wears.
2. Chain Stitch Sewing Machine

9. Fig 2 : Chain Stitch Machine

10. • No. of needle: 1 or 2.
• No. of threads : 2 - 5.
• SPM : 6500 – 8500.
• Stitch Length : 4mm (maximum) and it can be
adjusted by push button.
• Stretching : Maximum 1: 0.6 and Gathering :
Maximum 1:4
• Used for sewing both woven and knitted goods, but
extensively used for knitted goods.
3. Over Lock/Over Edge Sewing Machine

11. Fig 3 : Over Lock/Over Edge Sewing Machine

12.  Special modification of lock stitch machine.
 No. of needle: 1
 No. of threads : 2
 SPM : 5500
 Stitch Length: 2 to 2.5 mm
 Stitch Width: 5 to 10 mm
 Used in edge stitching or decorative top stitching or
to fit extra component to garments, such as elastic,
tape, pipe etc.
4. Zigzag Lock Stitch Sewing Machine

13. Fig-4 : Zigzag Lock Stitch Sewing Machine

14.  No. of needle: up to 4
 No. of threads : 4 to 9
 SPM : 6000
 Stitch Density: 8 to 16 per inch
 Thread consumption of this machine is
very high. So very expensive machine.
 Used for knitted garments. But it can be
also used for woven garments.
5. Flat Lock Sewing Machine

15. Fig-5 : Flat Lock Sewing Machine

16.  No. of needle: 1
 No. of threads : 1 or 2
 SPM : 2500
 Stitch Length : 3 to 8 mm
 Stitches are not seen on the face side of the fabric.
 Curved needle is used.
 Security is high for 2 thread blind stitch machine.
 Very expensive.
 Widely used for hemming and facing attaching.
6. Blind Stitch Sewing Machine

17. Fig-6 : Blind Stitch Sewing Machine

18.  Stitch Group : Lock or Chain may be used.
 For heavy fabric, hole is cut before sewing.
 For lighter fabric, hole is cut after sewing.
 Arrangement of stitch density being
increased or reduced.
 To raise the stitch is called ‘Gimp’.
7. Button Holing Machine

19. Fig-7 : Button Holing Machine

20.  Produces lock stitch, chain stitch or hand
stitch.
 Button positioning can be automatic.
 Sewing is according to the hole in button
and may be cross or parallel.
 In fully automatic machines, button
feeding and positioning inside the button
clamp is performed by a hopper and pipe.
8. Button Attaching Machine

21. Fig-8 : Button Attaching Machine

22.  Cyclic machine of strong sewing in very short
length.
 After making tack stitch in short length (1-2cm),
cover stitch (zigzag) is made on tack stitch and the
no. of cover stitch.
 Used for sewing of belt loops, closing the ends of
button holes, for increasing strength at the ends of
the pocket.
9. Bar Tack Machine

23. Fig-9 : Bar Tack Machine

24.  Used for very fast and accurate sewing.
 Very expensive and require very efficient operator, so rarely
used in our country.
 Some examples of mostly used computerized sewing machines
are given below :
• Computer Controlled Cycle Machine with large Sewing Area.
• Cylinder Bed Machine with Automatic threads Trimming.
• 1-Needle, lock stitch unison feed machine with double capacity.
• 1-Needle, lock stitch portable Sewing machine with Automatic
thread Trimmer.
• 2-Needle, 2/3/4 thread over lock sewing machine with built-in
rolled hemming and differential feed.
• Automatic Jeans pocket setter with new automatic bobbin
winder/changer.
• 3-Needle, plain feed double loop seam machine with Tractor
type presser foot.
• High speed, lockstitch, buttonhole machine.
Computerized Sewing Machine

25. Fig-10 : Computerized Sewing Machine

26. The following maintenance points are to be considered carefully:
1. Machine should be cleaned every day.
2. Essential parts of the machine should be lubricated or oiled
regularly.
3. Needle should be adjusted carefully.
4. Needle thread, bobbin thread or looper thread should be
threaded correctly and their tension should be adjusted.
5. The pressure of pressure of pressure foot should be adjusted.
6. Stitch density should be adjusted.
7. Switching (on/off) should be proper.
8. Machine should be handled according to instruction.
9. The hand wheel should always be rotated towards the operator.
10. Bobbin thread should be wound in uniform tension.
11. During fabric feed and with drawl, the needle should be picked
at the top most position and the pressure foot is lifted.
12. One-fifth portion of bobbin should always remain empty after
winding thread.
Maintenance of Sewing Machine

27. Thanks to All