its about garments processing

1. Pattern:
An ornamentaldesign or decorative element in fabric .Pattern
may be produced either by the construction of the fabric or
other means .for example printing, embroidery.
It is a hard paper which is made by following all the
specificationsof each and individualcomponents.
Pattern making tools:
The tools described here form a basic selection with
which most pattern cutting techniques can be achieved. The best
way to discover which of the many tools available to pattern
cutters are most appropriate and how they work is to seek advice
from pattern cutters and technicians. Each practitioner will have
their own favorite tools, gathered together during a lifetime of
experience.

2. 1. Hip curve
2. Armhole ruler
3. Pattern hooks
4. Cutting mat
5. Glue stick
6. Marker pen
7. Dress pins
8. Highlighter pen
9. Scalpel
10. Sell tape, Double side tape
11. Pattern notcher
12. Pattern hole punch
13. Measure Tape
14. Metal ruler
15. Meter ruler
16. Pattern master (new &old version)
17. Set squares
18. Grading ruler
19. Unpicker
20. Tracing wheels
21. 2H Pencil
22. Pencil sharpener &Eraser

3. 23. Pattern drill whit drill parts
24. French curves as a set
25. Tailor chalk
26. Paper/Card scissors
27. Fabric Scissors
28. Awls
29. Pattern cutting paper dot and cross
30. Pattern cutting card
Pattern making depends on:
 Personal skill
 Technical and Technological knowledge
 Sense of design analytical capability
 Experience of garments making
Pattern making steps:
1. Block pattern or basic block
a) Flat method
b) Modeling
2. Working or garments pattern

4. Standard body measurements for gents
Marker Making:
Marker making is a critical step in the garment manufacturing
process. It is made just before cutting and its purpose is to
minimize the wastages. By retaining strict control over this
critical step, they keep the fabric consumption as low as
possible. Depending on the relative efficiency of each marker
produced, the company may save or waste thousands of dollars a
year.

5. Marker making
Maker making are two types:
1. Manual marker making method and
2. Computerized marker making (CAD)
Flow Chart of Manual Marker Making
Receiving of pattern parts
↓
Created on marker paper or directly on fabric ply
↓
Tracing by pencil or tailor’s chalk.
↓
Completing the marker
Flow Chart of Computerized Marker

6. Making
Receiving of pattern parts
↓
Taking the image of pattern in CPU by digitizer
↓
Moderizing of all pattern parts by the software
↓
Aligning all size pattern parts in the marker by the software
↓
Completing the marker
Marker efficiency= (Area of the pattern in the marker plan X 100) /Total area
of the marker plan
Fabric Spreading:
Fabric spreading is a method where piles of fabric are
spread a specific length and width wise according to the
garment marker measurement. A proper fabric spreading
process in garments may effect on productivity, quality,
and cost of the production. Fabric spreading is very
important task to maintain proper shape of fabric before
cutting of garments. Now I would like to discuss about the
process of fabric spreading in the apparel industry.

7. Types of spreading:
1. Flat spreading
2. Stepped spreading
Fabric Spreading Process in Garments:
There are two methods applied in garment industry for
fabric spreading process.
1) Manual method and
2) Mechanical method.
The manual method is totally hand spreading method
therefore this process is quite slow. On the other hands,
mechanical method is two types. They are semi-automatic
and full automatic.
Fully automatic spreading machine

8. Requirements of fabric spreading:
1. Fabric Length and Weight:
During fabric spreading length and width should equal to
marker length and width.This measurementmust be
uniform before fabric cutting. Otherwise fabric wastage
may be increased or defective garment component may
be produced.
2. Fabric Tension:
The tension in fabric lay should be uniform.If the tension is
higher than small size actual size. On the other hand, if
the fabric lay be loose then it may create problem during
fabric cutting and lager size of component may be
produced than the actual size.
3. Fabric Splicing:
Another important factor of fabric spreading is fabric
splicing. Splicing should be accurate during fabric
spreading. Excess splicing may increase faulty area and
short splicing may produce faulty component. The lay of
the fabric should be maintained according to the fabric
construction and splicing methods.
4. Static Electricity:
Generally man-made fibers are may increase the charge
of electricity, which is the main reason for producing static

9. electricity in the fabric spreading process. Static electricity
should be removed by earthing or using special oil
between two layers of fabric.
5. Fabric Ply Direction:
The direction of fabric ply should be corrected. Fabric ply
direction depends on the type of fabric, Shape of the
pattern and construction of fabric. Therefore, ply direction
must be checked before laying the ply on cutting table.
Otherwise, they may create problem during the sewing
section in garments.
6. Ply Number:
Ply number is another important factor for fabric
spreading. Ply number should be counted during fabric
spreading. The higher ply number may increase vibration
between cutting knife and fabric layer and low number of
ply may reduce the fabric spreading productivity.
7. Stripe and Check Matching:
Stripe and check should be matched with every ply
of fabric. Therefore stripe and check matching are done
very carefully during fabric spreading process in garments.
Otherwise that will be created problem during the sewing
section in garments.
8. Fabric Faults removing:
There are different types of fabric faults are found in fabric
inspection section. They are such as hole, missing end,
broken end, thick end, Reedy fabric, broken pattern,
double pick, slub, snarl, thick and thin places, temple

10. marks etc. Before fabric spreading those faults must be
identified and also remove from fabric.
Different Types of Lay Used in Fabric
Spreading:
Actually fabric lays are divided into two types. Those are
mentioned in the below:
1. According to the construction,
2. According to the direction of fabric spreading.
All the above two types have discussed in the
following:
1. According to the construction:
This type of fabric lay also divided in two types such as
straight lay and stepped lay.
(a) Straight lay:
In case of straight lay, every ply is placed according to
the marker length. It is the most common and mostly
used fabric lay in readymade garments sector.
Straight Lay
(b) Stepped lay:

11. In case of stepped lay, each ply is not spread according to
the full length of marker. Different types of marker are
needed for stepped lay.
Stepped Lay
2. According to the direction of fabric spreading:
This type of fabric lay is divided into three types such as
from right to left, right to right and zigzag lay. These three
types have discussed in the below:
(a) From right to left:
This type of fabric lay is more wide and open. Fabric
always spread here in the same direction.
From Right to Left
(b) From right to right:

12. This type of fabric lay is more wide and open so that more
useful. It has needed special spreading machines to
make this type of fabric lay.
From Right to Right
(c) Zigzag lay:
In case of zigzag lay, fabric is spread without cutting from
one end to the other according to the marker length and
this is a continuous process. This type of fabric lay is more
used in garments manufacturingindustries. One problem
is here that it creates problem in asymmetric fabric.
Zigzag Lay

13. Cutting:
Cutting is one of the major process in garments
manufacturing. Here garments parts are cutting according
to the pattern. In garments cutting department, a process
flow chart have to maintained to send the right
measurement parts in the next process for making quality
garments. As its importance in garments manufacturing, a
process flow chart for garments cutting department is
presented in this article.
Garments Cutting Section

14. Process Flow Chart of Fabric Cutting
Department:
Pattern received from pattern department
↓
Cutting ratio received from merchandiser
↓
Marker making
↓
Fabric received from the store
↓
Fabric Checking
↓
Fabric Spreading
↓
Marker placing on to the lay
↓
Cutting the fabric
↓
Numbering
↓
Checking
↓
Sorting and Bundling
↓
Send to the sewing department

15. Scissor