The document discusses the art of garment pattern grading. There are two main grading systems - two dimensional grading which only increases size along width and height, and three dimensional grading which also increases or decreases pattern suppression in key areas like bust to shoulder. Three dimensional grading is best for close fitting garments. There are different techniques for grading patterns manually including the draft grade and track grade. The goal of grading is to efficiently produce accurate patterns in multiple sizes.

1. The art of garment pattern
grading.
R.S.BALAKUMAR.
FACULTY.
SFDA/HINDUSTAN UNIVERSITY

2. • Grading in the apparel manufacturing industry
is well known as the art of proportionally
increasing or decreasing a given size pattern
part from one size to another, retaining
everything true to its original form.
• The grading network for a block pattern is also
the basic network for the components which
have been developed from the block pattern.

3. • There are many techniques involved in the grading
of garment pattern but they all have one common
principle- the basic grade.
• Grading system can be classified in to the
following two broad systems:
• 1. Track Shift System or Two dimensional grading.
• 2. Draft Grade System or Three dimensional
grading.

4. Two-dimensional system:
• Two dimensional grading systems only grades a
pattern for girth and height and its application is
therefore limited to loose or semi drape
garments because it retains the stock size
suppression throughout the size range.
• This system is more apt to a very loose fitting
garment such as a shirt or blouse with a limited
range to say, 10-12-14, may be safely graded
using a two dimensional system.

5. Three dimensional system:
• This system not only increases a pattern for size
but it also increases or decreases suppression in
the following areas:
• • 1.Bust to shoulder.
• • 2.Hip to Waist.
• • 3.Elbow to wrist.

6. • Three dimensional grading is the optimum system
and should be used whenever possible,
• particularly when grading close fitting or skin-
tight garments and garments that progress in size
from 10 to 22.
• The most important garment area is the bust to
shoulder suppression quantity.
• A good working knowledge of pattern cutting is
required to use a three-dimensional grading
system.

7. Types of Garment:
• There are two main categories, they are:
• • Close or skin-tight fitting garments
• • Loose or semi drape garments.
• The closer the garment fit, the more important it is to
select a sophisticated garment grading system which
adjusts the garment with the garment suppression.
• If the garment fit is loose the value of adjusting the
garment suppression decreases and a two dimensional
system becomes more advisable.

8. Number of sizes:
• This may depend a little on whether a
garment is close or loose-fitting, but it mainly
refers to a situation where the company or
firm only offers a limited number of sizes, the
complexity of the grading system, etc.

9. Number of sizes:
• This may depend a little on whether a
garment is close or loose-fitting, but it mainly
refers to a situation where the company or
firm only offers a limited number of sizes, the
complexity of the grading system,
• Grading Techniques:
• • The draft or multi size (Nested) grade.
• • The track or single size grade.

10. The Draft Grade:
• This term applies when the pattern is returned to its original
block form or when the increment is applied to the actual
pattern draft.
• This results in the entire size range being super imposed one on
top of another and can also be described by the term 'Nested' or
'Tracked'.
• The individual pieces of pattern for each size are then picked or
traced off onto card.
• A draft grade can be either two or three dimensional.
• The three dimensional draft grade is considered to be the
ultimate method for applying grade increments.

11. The Track Grade:
• This term is used when grade increments are
applied to individual pieces of pattern by moving
the base pattern pieces along with the
predetermined tracks.
• Making the pattern section by section and thus
altering its size.
• This system is usually two dimensional but can be
adapted to a three dimensional system with
difficulty.

12. steps for manual grading:
• 1. To prepare for grading.
• 2. Grading the pattern,
• 3. Check the pattern grading measurements
• 4. Completing the pattern.

13. The tools required for grading
• 1. Parallel rules
• 2. Awl
• 3. Carpenters pencil
• 4. Proportional divider
• 5. French curve
• 6. Arm hole curve
• 7. Tailors square
• 8. Notch maker
• 9. Grade ruler
• 10. Measuring tape
• 11. Colour sketch pen or pencils

14. Size intervals:
• A sizing system is a pre-determined size
interval i.e.
• the major girth difference between each size.
• The variation in the size is in the order of plus
or minus 2cm then the logical size interval
would be 4cm.
• Practically, intervals smaller than 4cm result
into more used sizes of the range.

15. Size charts:
• There are two types of size charts in normal use.
• 1. Body measurements:
• This type of chart provides the human body measurements
for each size and these measurements are used as a basis
for constructing a pattern with the requisite amounts of
ease.
• 2. Garment measurements:-
• This chart gives the details of the finished measurements,
specification for each size and is used for pattern grading
purpose.
• A size is a combination of measurements and each
combination is designated by a symbol which is a common
code between the apparel manufacturer and the consumer.

16. The 'X ' AXIS and 'Y'AXIS:
• The x -axis for body
• y-axis for body and skirt grades would be a line
on, or parallel to the center back or center
front.
• This is always true, if straight y-axis is a line on,
or parallel to a major girth line such as the
bust, waist, or hip.

17. The different types of grading
• manual grading,
• machine grading, and
• computerized grading are still used.
• The practice of garment grading is mainly
concerned with efficiently producing dimensionally
accurate patterns.
• In order to do this, some basic rules must be
always observed.
• There is no hard and fast rule as how to actually
produce the sets of graded patterns and the choice
of working method is also dependent on an
individual's accuracy and convenience.

18. •THANK YOU