Configuration of spreading systems used in apparel industry textile learner

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Configuration of Spreading Systems Used in Apparel Industry
CONFIGURATION OF SPREADING SYSTEMS USED IN APPAREL INDUSTRY
Sadia Alam
KCC Women's College (Affiliated by Khulna University)
Khulna, Bangladesh
Email: sadia.jui93@gmail.com
1.1 Fabric Spreading:
Fabric spreading means smooth lying out of fabrics as per marker direction. Fabric spreading is the preparatory
process for cutting. In this processing no. of plies up to 300 is possible in one lay. This is a preparatory operation
for cutting and consists of laying plies of cloth one on top of the other in a predetermined direction and relationship
between the right and wrong sides of the cloth. The composition of each spread i.e. the number of plies of each
color is obtained from the cut order plan. Number of plies depends on:
Capacity of the cutting machine1.
Volume of production2.
Type of fabric itself (rough or slippery)3.
Thickness of fabric4.
Fig: Fabric spreading
1.2. Types of Fabric Spreading: The spreads can be of two basic types:
1. Flat spreads- all plies are of the same length.
2. Stepped spreads- this as the name suggests, is built up in steps, with all the plies in one step
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having the same length. A stepped spread is generally used when the quantities to be cut precludes
the use of a flat spread. The cut order plan details the colors and ply lengths for a stepped spread, if
it is needed.
1.3. Spreading Quality Specification:
Spreading quality must be measured with respect to the following factors:1.
Ply alignment: length and width2.
Ply tension: stretch, slack edge3.
Grain alignment: bowing4.
Splicing: waste and precision;5.
Damage placement: economy of placement;6.
Surface direction; and7.
Static electricity8.
1.4. Fabric Spreading Objective:
The objective of spreading is given below---
To place a number of plies of fabric under the marker according to the planning process.1.
In the color required2.
Correctly aligned as to length and width3.
At correct tension4.
1.5. General Fabric Spreading System:
Before spreading some parameters must be keep in mind--
Mark the Splice Zone on the Spreading Table1.
Use Paper for the first ply in case the table surface is rough or when fine fabrics are being spread2.
Identify the defects noticed in the fabric by means of sticker3.
Use lubricated paper for separating layer4.
To prevent scorching in the natural fibers (coarse fabrics).5.
To prevent fusing in the synthetic fabrics.6.
Ensure that decided number of ply count and height of the spread is achieved.7.
1.6. How to spread:
Pull the fabric to far end position
Position the fabric at the far end (with our without weight or pins)
Align the ply (width on one side
Cut the ply after each la
Repeat this process from until the entire roll is spread
Check ply count
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Fig: Spreading layering the fabrics
1.7. Spreading layering the fabrics:
Fabric spreading is very important part of the production process because it is basic for obtaining a high quality final
product. Spreading is the process of unwinding large rolls of fabric onto long, wide tables in preparation for cutting
each piece of a garment. The number of layers of fabric is dictated by the number of garments desired and the
fabric thickness. Fabric Spreading Machines are used for bulk production.
1.8. Spreading or Laying:
Spreading is the process of unwinding large rolls of fabric onto long, wide tables in preparation for cutting each
piece of a garment. The number of layers of fabric is dictated by the number of garments desired and the fabric
thickness. Spreading can be done by hand or machine. Depending upon the fabric and cutting technology, up to 200
layers of fabric may be cut at one time. Fabrics that are more difficult to handle are generally cut in thinner stacks.
Spreading and cutting is smooth laying out of
fabric in superimposed layers or piles of
specified length. The cutting marker is laid on
the topmost layer. The maximum cutting width
is the usable fabric width minus selvedge or
needle marks caused by stencil marks. Fabric
utilization is the amount of fabric actually
utilized in the marker as the percentage of the
total fabric area.
1.9. Types of Lay Plan:
Half Garment Lay includes only half of the
garment pieces for example one side left
or right. Generally used for tubular
fabrics.
1.
Whole Garment Lay includes garment
pieces, left and right sides. Generally used for Open width fabrics.
2.
Single Size Lay is used using all garment pieces of one single size. Disadvantageous as the consumption of
fabric is higher.
3.
1.10. Types of Lay:
1. Single Ply is a single layer of fabric generally to make samples
2. Multiple Ply is a number of fabric layers stacked on one top of other
3. Stepped Lay is multiple lay in which groups of layers have different lengths generally used for
getting best utilization and consumption of fabric.
1.11. Removing Tension in the Lay:
1. An essential element of spreading is to relax tension in the fabric during the
2. Spreading process. Should there be any significant „stretch‟ in the fabric after
3. Spreading, when the fabric is cut into parts, each part will shrink. Even 5% shrinkage is enough to
change a whole garment size
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1.12. Forms of Spreading:
1. One Way Cutting is when fabric is laid the same way up with grain or print pattern running in the
same direction. Fabric has to be cut at the end of each ply.
2. Fact to Face Cutting is when the plies are laid in pairs face to face. The grain or pattern runs in
the same direction.
3. Two Way Cutting is when plies are laid continuously from left to righ and right to left without
cutting at the end. Most Efficient method of spreading. Cannot be used with grain restrictions or one
directional printed fabric.
1.13. Presentation of Fabrics:
Presentation depends on type of materials, their application. Generally fabrics are Open width (rolled), Doubled
(wound) and Tubular (plaited)
1.6. Requirements of Spreading Process:
Alignment of plies in both length and width direction- length and width of fabric must be at least equal to
marker length and width.
Elimination of fabric defects/flaws- any faults identified on the incoming fabrics will be tagged and will be
avoided.
Correct ply direction (especially for asymmetrically printed fabrics)- all faces up, all faces down, face to face
etc.
Correct ply tension- ply tension must be uniform and as much less as possible.
Avoidance of distortion in the spread during cutting- polythene sheets are used under the bottom ply to resist
friction of the bottom ply with the base plate of the knife.
Fabrics must be flat and free from any crinkle & crease- these cause defects in garments due to variation in
dimension.
Checks and stripes should be matched.
1.14. Objectives of spreading process:
Understanding the process of fabric spreading1.
Factors affecting spreading2.
Face and nap of the fabric3.
1.15. The Spreading Process:
Spreading process and spreading mode is very important terms of garments manufacturing. Quality of garments
depends upon the spreading process and spreading mode. Manual spreading process is slower than automatic
spreading process. Quality of spreading process is depends upon operator quality.
Two aspects of spreading that affect spreading efficiency are the setup and actual layout of fabric. Setup involves
loading and threading fabric through the spreader and positioning the machine and related equipment. The actual
process of spreading involves laying out fabric in the desired number of layers. Fabric may be spread face up, face
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Fig: Fabric is flat open with the face to the inside of the roll
down, or face-to-face.
1.16. Spreading Modes:
A spreading mode is the manner in which fabric plies are laid out for cutting. The spreading mode is determined by
the fabric characteristics, quality standards of the firm, and available equipment.
Two fabric characteristics that determine the spreading mode are the direction of fabric face and the direction of the
fabric nap.
1. Direction of Fabric Nap:
A second consideration in selecting the spreading mode relates to the direction of the fabric nap. Placement of the
nap may be nap-one-way (N/OW) or nap-up-and-down (N/U/D).
2. Direction of Fabric Face
The fabric face may be positioned in two ways: face-to-face (F/F) or with all plies facing-one-way (F/O/W), face up
or face down. Face-to-face (F/F) spreading may be continuous as the spreader moves up and down the table.
1.17. Fabric Put-up and Spreading Modes:
1. Fabric Put-up; Open and Rolled
2. Fabric Put-up; Folded and Rolled 3.
Fabric Put-up; Tubular Fabric Rolled 4.
Spreading Mode; Open Fabric, Face
One Way, Nap One Way (F/O/W, N/O/W)
5. Spreading Mode; Open Fabric, Face
One Way, Nap UP and Down (F/O/W,
N/U/D) 6. Spreading Mode; Open Fabric,
Face to Face, Nap One Way (F/F, N/O/W)
7. Spreading Mode; Open Fabric, Face
to Face, Nap Up and Down (F/F, N/U/D)
8. Spreading Mode; Folded Fabric, Face
to Face, Nap One Way (F/F, N/O/W)
9. Spreading Mode; Folded Fabric, Face
to Face, Nap Up and Down (F/F, N/U/D)
1.18. The Method of Fabric Spreading:
The Method of Fabric Spreading are
describe below:
1. Manual method: This method is three types:
a. By hand
b. By hook
c. Spreading truck with the help of operator.
2. Mechanical method: This method is two types:
a. Semiautomatic
b. Full automatic
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Fig: Fabric is folded on one end and both selvedges are superimposed on the other edge of the roll . Face is to the inside of each folded layer
Fig: Tubular Fabric from a circular knitting machine is rolled up. Face is to the inside of the roll, and there is a fold at each end of the roll
By Hand:
Fabric roll
is spreaded
on the table
by two
laborers
according
to the
length &
width of
marker.
Sometimes
it is done
by entering
a rod which
is made by
wood or
metal in the
center paper
table which is
present in the
center of the
fabric roll.
By Hook: In
this process the
top of the table
on which the
fabric is
spreaded is set
at 10º angle
perpendicularly.
The hook which
placed on the
upper face of
the table is
15cm long and the hook is joined with one end of selvedge of the fabric. After completing the spreading of fabric, the
top of the table is set again. The hooks are displaced and the marker is spreaded on the fabric lay.
Spreading truck with the help of operator: There is a spreading truck on the one end of the spreading table in
which the fabric roll is placed. Then the truck is operated by hand from one end to the other end of the table & with
the same time the fabric is open out from the fabric roll and the fabric is spreaded according to the length and width.
Semiautomatic: Spreading machine is run on the rails which are placed at two side of fabric spreading table
surface and operated by motor. Fabric roll is set in a predetermined place of the machine. The machine is run from
one side to the other side of table by using electrical and mechanical motion and fabric is spreaded to make lay.
Full automatic: This is the improvement of semiautomatic machine. There are so many advantages of this machine
to make fabric lay because this machine is operated by controlling with the help of robot and micro processor.
1.19. Automatic Programmable Spreading Machines:
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Fig: Spreading starts at one end of the table on each ply
Fig: Spreading starts at one end of the table. Fabric is cut at the far end, rotated 180 degrees, then spread to the beginning. The Fabric is cut and rotated 180
degrees then the process is repeated.
All the requirements of spreading process
can be fulfilled by fully automatic
spreading machines. Their features
include:
Automatic loading/unloading and
threading/rewinding device for fabric
rolls.
Automatic roll turning arrangement
for face to back lay.
Automatic leveling device for fabric
edge alignment.
Automatic cutting device (one way or
two way cutoff) at the end of a run.
Automatic tensioning device to
control fabric tension.
Automatic lay height sensing elevator.
Programmable lay length, ply height and step-laying.
Spreading seeds up to 140 m/min.
1.20. Techniques for Spreading Quality:
Removing Tension in the lay
Cutting at the Ends
Reducing fabric waste at the end
Fabric Control during Spreading
Damage Remove
Ends and Damaged Good.
Spreading is the main operation where quality can be control before cutting.
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Fig: Spreading starts at one end of the table. Fabric is cut at the far end, the roll is brought to the beginning of the table, rotated 180 degrees, then spread to
the far end again. The Fabric is cut at the far end, brought back to the beginning of the table, rotated 180 degrees then the process is repeated.
Fig: Spreading starts at one end of the table. Fabric is folded over at the far end, then spreading continues back to the beginning of the table. The Fabric is
folded over then the process is repeated.
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Fig: Folded fabric spreading starts at one end of the table. Fabric is cut at the far end, then returned to the beginning. Then the process is repeated. On the
control side of the table the Fold is superimposed one layer on the previous layer. This process is also used on tubular rolled fabric
Fig: Spreading starts at one end of the table. Fabric is spread to the far end of the table. The fabric is folded over, then spread back to the beginning. The
fabric is folded over, then the process is repeated. On the control side of the table the Fold is superimposed one layer on the previous layer. This process is
also used on tubular rolled fabric
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Fig: THE SPREADING PROCESS & SPREADING MODES OF FABRIC IN A GARMENTS FACTORY
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Configuration of spreading systems used in apparel industry textile learner

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