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textile internship
- 1. Textile Internship Jaya ShreeTextiles, Hooghly Made by: Saima Jafari (MUM13AP13) Mentored by: Mr. Nitin Uttam Salve
- 2. Introduction • Jaya shreetextiles is under Aditya Birla Nuvo’s textile division • Largest manufacturer of linen fabric in India • Product range- suiting, shirting and dress materials • Linen is sold under Brand name “Linen Club” • Linen is a textile material made from the bast fibres of the flax plant. • It absorbs moisture and dries more quickly than cotton. • Linen is most suitable for summer apparel
- 3. Process flow oflinen fabric manufacture BALE OPENING CONDITIONING MANUAL SEGREGATION HACKLING DRAWING ROVING BOILING OR BLEACHING WET SPINNING DRYING WINDING YARN DYEING SECTIONAL WARPING YARN DRAWING WEAVING PIECE DYEING FABRIC PROCESSING INSPECTION AND QUALITY CONTROL PACKAGING
- 4. GODOWN • Fibre Procurement:Belgium, France • Bales- Round (100 kg) and square (200kg) • Bale Opening • Manual segregation in bunch of 100g • Suction mechanism in perforated tables • Tag of quality is attached
- 5. Hackling • m/c model-JAMES MACKIE & SONS LTD • 1 hour- 4320 bunches • Consists of a leather lattice • 3 types of pins: thick, medium and fine • Linen system and tow system Gill Box • Re-combing of flax slivers • Providing crimps • Draft= input/output
- 6. Drawing • Make: JamesMackie • Passing hackled slivers through wooden and steel rollers • Delivery drums are color coded • Row of 6 draw frames • Removal of thick and thin places from hackled slivers • 3 or 4 carriage system Roving • Gives a false twist to drawn slivers • Roves are wound on bobbins • A chain lifts the platform for even winding of roves • Production/shift: 1.2 tonnes • The same procedure is followed for both line and tow
- 7. Boiling/ Bleaching • Boiling:for dark colors and natural color of linen • Bleaching: for white and lighter shades • M/c model: Loris belline • Time: 5-7 hours • Capacity: 1200 kg • Water-intensive process • 10% strength loss • Steam & air pressure: 7kg • Wetting agent: Albaflow CIR • De-aerating agent: Betaform KS • Contaben gel (to break rove) • A small tank is connected with main tank for checking purpose • pH can be checked to control bleaching
- 8. Spinning • Wet spinning •M/c name: Spinning ring frame (PM- 88 L5) • RPM: 4000 • No. of machines: 26 • People working: 40 • Heads: 56 • Color coding for rings and bobbins • Thick and thin places cannot be eliminated • A lever below the frame to stop spinning • Doffers make the new setting once the production is over • Radio Frequency drying
- 9. Winding • M/c used:Schlafhorst Autoconer • Production: 3 tonnes/day (500m/min) • Package weight: 1-1.5kg • Robotic arm lifts on breakage, splicing happens • Throws away bobbins to the conveyer belt below on finding neps • Three alarm lights- Red, green and yellow • Inspection 5-6% • The broken rags are used in making currency paper
- 10. Dye recipe prediction:DATACOLOR • Spectrophotometer • Autolab • Solution maker • Ahiba nuance • Colour matching machine • 14 recipes can be tested at one time • Colour matching is done in 4 different types of light • Control helps them to detect which dye has expired
- 11. Yarn dyeing (package) •Dyes for linen: Reactive & Vat • SNOW: Super white, full bleach • Wetting agent: ALBAFLOW CIR • Salt, soda ash, acetic acid • Vat dyeing is preferred at the night time • Total machines: 25 of capacities 25kg and 420 kg • M/c model: Loris Bellini HTHP • Overhead conveyer system HTHP Package dyeing machine
- 12. What is cuppingand Delave effect? Cupping: Rounding the corners of cheeses during Vat dyeing to increase penetration Delave effect: Dye penetrates less at the intersection of yarns, creatind patchy effect in fabric
- 13. Warping • PPC dept.gives the Job card • Creeling is done from top to bottom and front to back • Sectional warping m/c: Prashant gamatex • Single end warping m/c: Suzuki Warper Ltd. • The shape of the barrel is non-uniform to avoid slippage of warp sheet
- 14. Gating and knotting •Knotting machine • Knots two warp sheets together • Makes 320 knots per minute • Done when pattern is same, color can be changed • An operator has to monitor it Gating is done when design pattern changes Drawing in through heald eye, reed dent and drop wires
- 15. Weaving • Total looms:142 (rapier and projectile) • Make: Sulzer and Picanol • Primary motions: Shedding, Picking, Beating up • Secondary motions: Taking up, letting off • Humidifiers are used in linen weaving • 4 weft cones can be mounted • Jacquard for selvedge • Cycle of jacquard has to match with loom • Three rows of drop wire • The dropped drop wire can be located with motion of hands • Three alarm lights: red, green and yellow • Laser safety device
- 16. Singeing-cum-quenching • Gas singeing •M/c used: Osthoff senge • A chamber with quenching and desizing solution • Flame can be: Tangential, On the roll, On the fabric • Temp.= 1200 C- 1400 C • An overlock m/c joins rolls • Prebrushed to raise fibres • Suction to remove ash • Post brush to remove ash
- 17. Continuous Bleaching Range(CBR)-CORINO MACCHINE • Total 8 chambers • Peroxide, caustic, stabilizers, wetting agent, de-aerating agents, bioenzymes • Piece dyeing in jigger machines • Dwelling • Stentering on Harish stenter • Width indicators • Temp.= 200-250 C
- 18. Inspection • Grey fabricinspection: American 4 point system • Grading is done • Lot movement card contains quality, shade, customer, NS No., Job card no., etc. • Spinning defects: Unbleached yarn, yarn change and pattas • Weaving defect: Chira, chappa, jhiri • Processing defects: Dagee, crease, white patches Sanforizing: Zero Zero oneThree bowl calendering (having metal & seam detectors)
- 19. Testing • USTER TENSORAPID •Principle – constant rate of extension CRE • WRAP REEL • Length measurement for determination of yarn count Other tests: • Flammability test • Tearing and tensile strength test • Color fastness tests • Shrinkage test
- 20. Effluent Treatment Plant(ETP) 1. Collection Tank 2. Primary Clarifier 3. UASB 4. Diffused aeration tank 5. Gas holder 6. Primary and secondary settling tanks 7. Gravity tank 8. Discharge to drain • BOD=25-30, COD=225-250 • Acceptable TSS (total suspended solids)= 100 mg/l • Acceptable pH= 7.5-9
- 21. BIBLIOGRAPHY • Wikipedia • Jayashreetextiles official website www.jayashree- abnl.com • Quality control department of Jayashree textiles • Handbook on testing of Jayashree textiles • Information from powerpoint presentations and word documents from quality department of Jayashree textiles • Information collected from the industry