Simple presentation

1. STRAIGHT CONCRETE
STAIRCASE
Prepared by: Andi Rahman (07DUB14F1001)

2. DEFINITION
The straight staircase or single run stair is continuous
from one floor level to another without landings
or turns. In other words, this type of stairs does not
change in direction. It is the easiest stair to build. Below
is a diagram shown a design of straight staircase.
Straight Staircase Design

3. THESE ARE EXAMPLES OF
STRAIGHT CONCRETE
STAIRCASE DESIGNS.

7. THE TECHNICAL TERMS ASSOCIATED WITH THE DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION OF
STAIRS ARE:
TREAD: It is the upper horizontal portion of a step upon which the foot is placed while
ascending or descending.
RISER: It is the vertical portion of a step providing support to the tread.
LANDING: It is the level platform at the top or bottom of a flight between the
floors. A Landing facilitates change of direction and provides an
opportunity for taking rest during the use of the stair.
RISER: It is the vertical distance between two successive tread faces.
GOING: It is the horizontal distance between two successive riser faces.
STRINGS AND STRINGERS: These are the slopping members which support the steps in
the stairs. They run along the slope of the stairs.
NEWEL POST: A vertical member which is placed at the ends of flight to connect the ends
of the strings and hand rail.
BALUSTER: Vertical member of wood or metal, supporting the hand rail.
HAND RAIL: It is the surrounded or molded member of wood or metal following
generally the contour of the nosing line and fixed on the top of balusters.

8. NEWEL POST
STRING
BALUSTER
RISER
HAND RAIL
TREAD

9. TECHNICAL TERMS OF STAIR
DIMENSION
IRC
Maximum riser 7 ¾’’ (195 mm)
Minimum run 10” (250 mm)
Minimum headroom 6’-8” (2000 mm)
Minimum tread width 3’-0” (900 mm)
Handrail height
34” (850 mm) min.
38” (950 mm) max.
Guardrail height 36” (900 mm) min.
Basic Technical Terms of Straight Staircase Dimension Based on IRC.

12. HOW TO CONSTRUCT
STRAIGHT CONCRETE
STAIRCASE

13. Calculate the Stairs' Dimensions. Stairs consist of a riser, the vertical
face, and the tread, the part you step on. Calculate the elevation, the
height of one floor to the other. This number is the total rise to the
stairs. Measure the horizontal distance the staircase will span. Measure
the width of each step from left to right in the area where the staircase
will go.
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Vertical Surface

14. Determine the Dimensions of the Staircase's Foundation When
building concrete steps, you will need a foundation: a slab of
concrete poured to a depth of several inches below the grade level
(check local building codes). The dimensions are equal to that of the
footprint of the stairs. To calculate your necessary footprint, take the
total run for length of the slab, and total width of the stairs for the
width of the slab.
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15. Build the Form. It can be made from scrap or low-grade lumber.
The first step is to cut the side forms according to the tread and
riser calculations. This should look like the view of a staircase from
the side. They must be securely adhered to the building's foundation.
Add wooden stakes as bracing against the outward movement of the
poured concrete. Next, install the boards that will form the face of the
risers.
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16. Mix the Concrete. For a staircase, you can mix the concrete by hand,
or you can use a portable cement mixer. If you decide to mix it by
hand you should understand at the outset that building concrete steps
in your home is hard physical labor and likely not a one person job. If you
enlist in a friend's help, be prepared to owe him or her a favor - big time! If
the staircase is any larger than the short sunken living room staircase
described earlier.
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17. Pour the Concrete. Start from the bottom, and pour one step at a
time. Once you pour it, it should be spread evenly. Use a spade or a
rod to remove trapped air bubbles.5

18. Add the Finishing Touches. There are any number of finishing
methods you can use to get a smooth surface while building
concrete steps. A screed board is a piece of lumber somewhat longer
than the width of the staircase that you'll gently work front to back and
side to side to get the excess concrete off the treads. To provide a finer
finish, use a steel trowel, which is very much like a wood float, only the
finishing surface is very smooth steel which creates a smoother and less
bubbly finish.
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19. Wait and Dampen. Once you have the surfaces smoothed, keep the
concrete wet or damp for up to one week while it cures. You can do
this by covering the stairs with burlap and keeping the burlap wet, or
you can cover it tightly with plastic. Left open to the atmosphere, the
relative humidity of the concrete will drop rapidly. After a week, the
concrete will have attained its final shape, and you can remove the form
lumber. Curing will continue to take place over a period of months.
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