JANUARY 2016 / 3rd Anniversary Issue

www.textilevaluechain.com
TE TILEX
VALUE CHAIN
January 2016 | Volume 4 | Issue 1| Pages 52
Registered with Registrar of Newspapers under | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707
Postal Registration No. MNE/346/2015-17 published on 5th of every month,TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at Mumbai
Patrika Channel Sorting Office,Pantnagar- 75, posting date 17/18 of month
3
rd
World Economic Report
Wedding Muhrat 2016
CoverStory:ApparelValueChain
Market Report : Co on, Synthe c Yarn, Garment
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January 2016www.textilevaluechain.com
EDITORIAL
Ms. Jigna Shah
Editor & Publisher
All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of
any of the content from this issue is prohibited
without explicit written permission of the
publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure
and present factual and accurate information.
The views expressed in the articles published in
this magazine are that of the respective authors
and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile
Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely
errors that might occur or any steps taken
based in the information provided herewith.
Registered Office
Innovative Media and Information Co.
189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar,
Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai 400075.
Maharashtra, INDIA.
Tel : +91-22-21026386
Cell: +91-9769442239
Email: info@textilevaluechain.com
tvcmedia2012@gmail.com
Web: www.textilevaluechain.com
Owner, Publisher, Printer &
Editor
Ms. Jigna Shah
Printed & Processed by her at,
Impression Graphics,
Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate,
Andheri Kurla Road,
Sakinaka, Andheri (East),
Mumbai 400072,
Maharashtra, India.
Celebrating 3rd Anniversary
W
e are glad to share that we have completed 3 years of our publication, started its 4th year. In year
2012 we have started with Quarterly issue, from year 2015 we launched Monthly issue. We are
thankful to all our advertisers, subscribers, editors, column writers, exhibition organizers, gov-
ernment officials, association, well- wishers and all industry contributors for being supported as
a guide, mentor & afriend. Journey was not easy, but your acceptance made us feel that we are part of this industry
since many years..!!!
Every business changed its dynamic due to revolution in internet, smart phone, search engine, mobile applica-
tions, social media and many more. New communication, distribution channel, innovative marketing tactics made
business more competitive to world. Global supplier and customer are now no more new to the market. Both of
them well connected, travelled, informed and made comfortable business.
Textiles/ Apparel/Fashion industry isincepted since man realized that they should cover their body with some
beautiful, creative piece of element, which we call as Clothes or Garment. Our primary need: Roti, Kapda, Makan.
As per human body dynamics, food is necessityto live and breathe in the world. Makan is for one stable address
in earth. Kapda/ clothes need to be wornto cover body, which can be worn till torn/ washed out. Well informed
human being wants best food, education, investment for quality life, so these are now the priority need whereas
Apparel & jewelry is Secondary need now days.
We are all part of secondary need industry ie Textile & Apparel. We all expect miracle will happen by TUFS, GST,
Excise duty etc.
Apparel Value Chain is now no more from fabric to retail, but sourcing right raw material (fiber/ yarn) to sell to
Fashion/ Retail channel. Strategic selectionof raw material/ market is a major challenge for all apparel manufactur-
ers today. Fibers categories as a branded ( Liva, Lenzing, etc) and commodity fibers like banana, viscose, cotton
etc. changing the industry from grass root level. New channel of marketing/ distribution like online, footpath
hawkers, home based women business changed dynamics / market of the industry. On other extreme level Bol-
lywood / Television industry growing which demands more fashionable/ theme based unique designers. Industry
needs Domestic garment manufacturer, Global brands to enthuse youth, Costume designers for occasional wear
and glamour industry.
Being a part of industry, we wish to grow this industry together & make Indian industry /economy to the new
niche with our competitive edge..!!! Your valuable suggestions, feedback is required to improvement of industry,
we will voice your thoughts and reach to macro level.
Wish you all fruitful and satisfied New Year 2016 & wish you live meaningful life ahead.

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EDITORIAL TEAM
Editor & Publisher
Ms. Jigna Shah
Editorial Advisor
Shri V.Y. Tamhane
Consulting Editor
Mr. Avinash Mayekar
Graphic Designer
Mr. Anant A. Jogale
INDUSTRY
Mr. Devchand Chheda
City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group)
Mr. Manohar Samuel
President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries
Dr. M. K. Talukdar
VP, Kusumgar Corporates
Mr. Shailendra Pandey
VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon
Mr. Ajay Sharma
GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group)
EDUCATION / RESEARCH
Mr. B.V. Doctor
HOD knitting, SASMIRA
Dr. Ela Dedhia
Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College
Dr. Mangesh D. Teli
Professor, Dean ICT
Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay
Principal Scientist & Head MPD
Dr. Rajan Nachane
Retired Scientist, CIRCOT
CONSULTANT / ASSOCIATION
Mr. Shivram Krishnan
Senior Textile Advisor
Mr. G. Benerjee
Management & Industrial Consultant
Mr. Uttam Jain
Director PDEXCIL; VP of Hindustan Chamber of Commerce
Mr. Shiv Kanodia
Sec General, Bharat Merchant Chamber
Mr. N.D. Mhatre
Dy. Director, ITAMMA
January 2016 ISSUE
CONTENT
Advertiser Index
8- Feedback Corner
11- Government News
COVER STORY : Apparel Value Chain
12- Looking Smart : 2016 going on 17 by Mr. Vishnu Govind
13- Significance of Digital Media marketing in success of
e-commerce business by Mr.RushinVadhani
14- Journey of Costume designer in Bollywood industry
by Mrs.AnjuTulshyan
15- Garment Industry Recruitment trends 2016
by Mr.Saurabh Agarwal
ARTICLES
17- Industrialisation in Africa by Mr.ArvindSinha
25- Development in reactive dyes by two College Professors
27- Study of physiochemical analysis of effluent and in vitro study of
decolourisation of congo red acidic dye by bacterial species
by Textile Committee staff
SHOW REPORTS
19- ITMACH BHIWANDI 2015
20- YFA Delhi 2015
21- Indian Navy and ITTA seminar cum exhibition
22- Birla Liva Protégé 2015
23- ICAC meeting
COMPANY PROFILE
33- Rajdhani
34- Staflex
MARKET REPORT
16- Surat Market
18- Garment Report
35- Cotton Report
38- Synthetic Yarn Report
40- Wedding Muhrat 2016
48- World Economic Report
41- Show Calendar
Back page : Raymond
Front inside :Boalamo
Back inside :RSWM
3- Narain Synthetics
5- Staflex
7- SGS Innovation
9- Rabatex
10- BSL Suiting
31- Monza
32- Rajdhani
43- Dynamic looms
44- Texfair 2016
45-VoraAssociate
&Temtech 2016
46- Technotex 2016
47- Sanjay Plastic

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It gives me great pleasure to
know that TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN
magazine has completed its suc-
cessful 3 years and going to produce
Anniversary Issue in January-2016.
We are very proud to be associated
with TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN since its inception. The en-
lightened team of Editorial & Managing committee have
come out with many innovative and new ideas in the past
few months.
All the articles and ideas, expressed by your eminent
writers are worth appreciating. New ideas remain critical
in debating and determining the future of how the tex-
tile industry should grow and work in future. The textile
industry is one of the key sectors which generates sub-
stantial revenue and employment. The Indian Textile
industry has immense potential towards nation building
and the textile industry fits into the definition of “Make
in India“launched by the Central Government. The cover
pages, printing quality and all the advertisements pub-
lished in your magazine are really attractive and “Show
Calendar” & “Events Overview” published are really ben-
eficial & informative.
I suggest that a detailed data analysis on national
& international textile markets may be incorporated
in your magazine related toYarn, wool & cotton, silk
trends,updates on textile dyes &chemicals, textile auto-
mation etc. Also you may include articles regardingyour
visit reports to major textile plants in India and day-to-day
problems they are facing in the industry related to Govt.
approvals, energy, manpower, labour issues, various govt.
taxes etc. and the best practises they are following which
will be very beneficial to all the textile manufacturers and
the textile industry.
I take this opportunity to extend my compliments to
the Editor & Publisher, Ms.Jigna Shah and the entire team
for their vision and hard work in their mission of textile
endeavours and wish them a bright future.
Personally always like the technical paper pub-
lished in Textile Value Chain magazine. These are quite
related to concern & issues in textile downstream as
well as new technical publication. The magazine is also
support to linked to textile leaders and current events
up date. Textile business trend analysis & future fore-
cast may be incorporate in publication.
I like the concept of integrating entire textile indus-
try in terms of textile value chain. topics and content of
magazine is interesting, quite knowledgeable. To know
supply side information, this magazine gives good infor-
mation.
Our suggestion is we need to know more on de-
mand side, means Market requirement, what market
really wants? This study and report is important to all
value chain contributors in the chain. Suggest to start
demand column in issue.
.
Mr. Sushil Hada
Research Scientist
TRADC, Birla Cellulose
Mr. Suresh Kotak,
Chairman,
Kotak Commodity Services Ltd
Mr. Harish Kumar Chatterjee
Vice President Manufacturing
Raymond Ltd.
’’
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FEED BACK CORNER
Contact Details:
C/1, Sai Shrushti,1st Floor, Opp ICICI Bank,Link Road, Chiku Wadi,Borivali (West) Mumbai – 400092
Phone No: 022-28988944/45/46 |Fax No : 022-28988947
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Balwantrai Hemchand Shah & Co
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(Export Quality Linens,Woven’s, Hosiery Fabrics Manufacturer and Supplier)
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11January 2016 www.textilevaluechain.com
Cabinet approves Amended
Technology Upgradation Fund
Scheme for Textiles industry
Amended scheme to boost ‘Make in
India’ in textile sector: to generate invest-
ment of one lakh crore rupees and create
over 30 lakh jobs
The Cabinet Committee on Economic
Affairs, chaired by the Prime Minister Shri
Narendra Modi has approved the introduc-
tion of “Amended Technology Upgradation
Fund Scheme (ATUFS)” in place of the ex-
isting Revised Restructured Technology
Upgradation Fund Scheme (RR-TUFS),for
technology upgradation of the textiles in-
dustry, with effect from the date of notifica-
tion of the scheme.
The new scheme specifically targets:
a. Employment generation and export by
encouraging apparel and garment indus-
try, which will provide employment to
women in particular and increase India’s
share inglobal exports.
b.Promotion of Technical Textiles, a sunrise
sector, for export and employment
c. Promoting conversion of existing looms
to better technology looms for improve-
ment in quality and productivity
d. Encouraging better quality in processing
industry and checking need for import of
fabrics by the garment sector.
The amended scheme would give a
boost to “Make in India” in the textiles sec-
tor; it is expected to attract investment to
the tune of one lakh crore rupees, and cre-
ate over 30 lakh jobs.
A budget provision of Rs.17,822 crore
has been approved, of which Rs. 12,671
crore is for committed liabilities under the
ongoing scheme, and Rs. 5,151 crore is for
new cases under ATUFS.
All cases pending with the Office of Tex-
tile Commissioner which are complete in all
respects, shall be provided assistance under
the ongoing scheme and the new scheme
will be given prospective effect.
Office of Textile Commissioner (TXC) is
being reorganised; its offices shall be set up
in each state. Officers of the TXC shall be
closely associated with entrepreneurs for
setting up the industry, including process-
ing proposals under the new scheme, veri-
fying assets created jointly with the bankers
and maintaining close liaison with the State
Government agencies.
The implementation of the scheme
would be executed and monitored online
under iTUFS, launched in April, 2015.
Under the new scheme, there will be
two broad categories:
i. Apparel, Garment and Technical Textiles,
where 15 percent subsidy would be pro-
vided on capital investment, subject to a
ceiling of 30 crore rupees for entrepre-
neurs over a period of five years.
ii. Remaining sub-sectors would be eligible
for subsidy at a rate of 10 percent, sub-
ject to a ceiling of Rs.20 crore on similar
lines.
Inauguration of ‘SHRESTHKRI-
TI’ and Launch of ‘Cottage Pre-
mium’ Collection by Secretary
(Textiles)
In an endeavor to promote Indian Hand-
icraft products and to showcase the rich
heritage of India , CCIC has organized an Ex-
hibition cum Sale of exclusive handcrafted
creations by National Awardees in its show-
room at Janpath, New Delhi from 19th Janu-
ary 2016 to 31st January 2016.
The exhibition was inaugurated today
by Ms. Rashmi Verma, Secretary, Ministry of
Textiles, at CCIC showroom, Janpath, New
Delhi.
Synonym with its name ‘SHRESTHKRITI’
the exhibition showcases unique artifacts,
paintings, Wooden Panels, Antique Oil
Lamps, Brass handicrafts, Marble Artefacts,
Painted Wooden Artefacts , Dhokra ,Pot-
tery, Papier machie, sarees ,shawls, and
home linen.
The highlight of the exhibition was the
launch of “COTTAGE PREMIUM”- An ex-
quisite collection of highly exclusive and
very limited collection of handicraft and
handloom products for the connoisseur of
crafts. Showcosing works of Master Craft-
spersons, Shilpgurus and National Award
Winning Artisans, besides a few handpicked
masterpieces. The limited Cottage Premium
Collection is available initially only in CCIC
Emporium of Jawahar Vyapar Bhawan,
Janpath, New Delhi. Cottage Premium Col-
lection is an ode to India’s hoary crafts and
weaving traditions. Each product is a marvel
and proves a worthy edition to the premium
collection.
This exhibition is yet another step in the
series of special displays being organised
by CCIC to encourage the craftpersons and
present their creations to the discerning
buyers from all parts of the globe.
The exhibition is open to general public
from January 19th to 31st, 2016, and the vis-
iting hours will be 10.00am to 7.00pm daily.
Handloom Items registered un-
der the Geographical Indications
of Goods (Registration and Pro-
tection), Act, 1999.
48 important and traditional handloom
products are registered under the Geo-
graphical Indications of Goods (Registration
and Protection), Act, 1999.
The authorized officers of the central
and state governments are instructed from
time to time to pay special attention to the
complaints on faking of G.I. registered han-
dlooms products.
Recently, Ministry of Textiles has re-
ceived complaints from various handloom
associations/unions that duplicate versions
of their famous G.I. registered handloom
products are being manufactured by the
mechanized sector of the textiles and are
sold in the market by some textile market-
ing companies in the names of G.I. regis-
tered handloom products. This is hamper-
ing the niche market of these handloom
products affecting their goodwill adversely
and shrinking their market value due to en-
croachment on their registered geographi-
cal indications.
Registered users of G.I. registered
products have rights under the provisions
of the Geographical Indications of Goods
(Registration and Protection), Act, 1999 to
approach respective police authorities to
safeguard their interests against such illegal
manufacturing/marketing of G.I. registered
handloom products.
Recently, an FIR was filed on 17.12.2015
in the Pochampally Police Station, Telanga-
na by the authorized users of the G.I. reg-
istered handloom products of pochampally
ikat sarees against the sellers/manufactur-
ers for selling/manufacturing duplicate G.I.
registered produc 9
GOVERNMENT NEWS

12
What you wear tells a lot about yourself, it reflects your person-
ality, your mood, your attitude, your standing in society- to put it
in simple words, it reflects your lifestyle, to use a term that is used
commonly in fashion marketing.Your clothes tend to speak about
the sort of life you lead, and of the value systems and culture that
are prevalent in the times you live in. Fashion keeps changing and
therefore as we enter a new year, I thought it is a good idea to
touch upon in the first article of the year, how it has evolved over
centuries and also cover some key elements that may influence
fashion trends going forward.
Wearing clothes is one habit, well, one of the many, that
distinguish human beings from other forms of life. It involves three
aspects, availability of textile or other basic material, some tech-
nology that helps convert it into something that can be worn, and
then, a human need for doing the same- a need strong enough to
make us do all these- something that has evolved tremendously
over the years. Along with food and shelter, clothing is a basic need-
it is this need of mankind to self-preserve and protect itself from
the elements that has led to the origin of clothing. Anthropological
studies lead us to believe that clothing most probably originated
when people started using animal skin and vegetation to protect
themselves from the elements- like cold, heat, rain and other furies
of nature. This may also have naturally led to other needs like pres-
tige, embellishments, distinction etc. as the need to stand out from
one another emerged.
Right through the evolution of mankind, we have seen gar-
ments being used as a means to show distinctions in social stand-
ing of people. People of higher ranks tend to wear more ornate
clothing to stand out from the common man. For the nobility, their
garments were lot more complicated and demonstrated their su-
periority with decorations on what they wear. This may be consid-
ered as indicative of clothing being seen as a ‘lifestyle product’ that
tells which social rank you belong to and therefore what quality of
life your are expected to lead. Depending on cultural, meteoro-
logical and other such considerations, different parts of the world
saw clothing evolve differently and this element of status symbol
would have manifested accordingly in different ways in different
geographies. With the world getting increasingly inter-connected
in recent times we witnessed a convergence in ways of dressing in
different parts of the world.
This led to the emergence of another parameter in fashion
choices of people- attitude. This is a rather evolved metric in com-
parison with some of the earlier ones as they are supposed to
represent the state of mind of the person wearing them. In fact,
today, there are dress codes that are seen as appropriate for dif-
ferent professions and industries. What you expect your lawyer to
wear might be different from what you expect your gym instructor
to wear, and is that the same as what you expect an Advertising
Creative Director to wear? Also, for each person, there are appro-
priate clothing codes that you tend to adhere to for different activi-
ties- like wearing to office, or weekend drive with family, or for a
wedding in the family. Fashion Marketing, today, has become a lot
more complex. One company in the business of fashion can have
multiple brands- one for each lifestyle, or life stage, or even the
same brand can have different extensions for different usage occa-
sions. It is not just about a shirt or a trouser anymore, it is, rather,
about the complete ensemble that you are seen in, that includes
apparel, footwear and other accessories, each one important
in terms of providing that little bit of extra detail. This is acrucial
part of how the business of fashion is managed now.Also, while
aesthetics is one part W lifestyle evolution without looking at the
impact of technology in it?
Let us now focus our attention on to our own country. We all
agree that in India, mobile phones and internet connectivity have
changed the way we live, in the last couple of decades, not that the
story is different in other parts of the world. Still, compared to oth-
er emerging economies like Brazil and China, quality and reach of
Internet access in lower in India. However, infrastructural improve-
ments are fast addressing this issue-like better 3G/4G coverage and
the boom in the use of Smart Phones. India has a young popula-
tion with a median age considerably lower than markets like China,
US, UK etc. We have a generation that is tech-savvy and gadget
friendly!
India is a market that has accepted Smart Phones well. Most
of the increasing Internet usage here is attributed to the growth in
the sale of these phones in this market. In fact, Whatsapp and Fa-
cebook represent a new way of life for many of us in this country in
a manner that cuts beyond demographics and social standing. The
fast adaptation to the Smart Phone way of living has led to industry
experts’ predictions that India will be quick to accept Smart Weara-
ble Products. In the fast-paced way of life that is getting more com-
plicated and technology dependent by the day, it is expected that
products you wear on your body can replace ones that you need
to put in your pocket. Makes sense, right? Health and Wellness is
a megatrend and this is one area where Smart Watches and Bands
have already started making an impact. You can wear them on your
body and they help track vital body functions as well as extent of
body workout and other such indices. There are brands that have
already made a mark in this space, some of them are specialists in
Smart Wearables, while some are technology giants and some are
Sportswear brands. As proof of growing cultural relevance of these
products, their grey market replicas are also beginning to be found.
Other aspects of modern life where wearables could make a mark
include security devlces that help you track you location as well as
devices that blend with an active, adventurous lifestyle.
Wearable Technology, though already making an impact, is only
in its infancy. Big electronic giants are making huge investments
into that space and are expected to come with new products that
Looking Smart: 2016 Going On 17
COVER STORY
Shri Vishnu Govind
Independent Brand Consultant
Business Director - Thinkkloud

COVER STORY
are integrated to the broader array of interactive digital networks.
So can we assume that clothing and Smart Gadgets are two parallel
streams of wearables, or can we expect them to converge? How
about wearing a ring that flashes when someone sends you a text
message? A small innovation that helps you give that ‘me-time’ to
yourself from your mobile phone, isn’t it? Or how about receiving a
notification when you misplace your sunglasses? Or a piece of jew-
ellery that tells you where you left your wallet?
So over centuries, we have seen that clothing has been about
functional benefits and pleasing looks. It is aninter-play between
these two co-ordinates that have shaped sartorial preferences of
mankind over the years. With fashion businesses constantly ex-
panding the boundaries of possibilities, there are researches that
indicate that Smart Clothing will one day compete with Smart
Watches and Fitness Bands to become the biggest wearable cat-
egory in future. In the era of wearable technology, Smart Fashion
could well become the new meeting point of functionality and aes-
thetics, when the clothes and accessories that you wear provide a
level of functionality that goes beyond the obvious.
With technology companies constantly innovating and compet-
ing amongst themselves to come out with products to raise the bar
in their respective categories in a culture of one-upmanship, we can
expect fast adaptation of newer technologies in the fashion world
also. This development could become a new growth curve in the
fashion space; when functionality meets aesthetics in a scenario
in which fashion design is not just about how it looks, but equally
about how it works! 9
“Significance of Digital Media Marketing in
success of E-commerce business”
In today’s competitive business world where every marketer is
striving to market the product & establish brand equity has become
a challenge.Conventional marketing tools are more or less being
used by all marketers targeting same segment of customers.
Moreover the level playing field is not only restricted to com-
pete with top 4 or 5 national brands in the category but also com-
pete with international & local brands which are striving hard to
gain increasing market share.
Marketers are compelled to have better understanding of cus-
tomers, enrich value chain &explore new marketing channels.Mar-
keting activities have moved beyond ATL & BTL activities to new
tools of digital media.
Digital revolution is significantly growing year on year because
of advanced social media platforms , electronic gadgets at afforda-
ble prices , availability of broadband services & customer interface
with products & brands.
Digital marketing refers to target, measure and interactive mar-
keting of products or services using digital technologies to reach
and convert leads into customers and retain them. Absolute focus
is to promote brands, build preference and increase sales through
various digital marketing techniques. The strategy is for extensive
selection of service, product and brand marketing tactics, which
mainly use the Internet as a core promotional medium, in addition
to mobile and traditional TV and radio.
Digital marketing activities are search engine optimization
(SEO), search engine marketing (SEM), content marketing, influ-
encer, content automation, campaign marketing, and e-commerce
marketing, social media marketing, social media optimization, e-
mail direct marketing, display advertising, e–books, optical disks
and games, and any other form of digital media. It also extends to
non-Internet channels that provide digital media, such as mobile
phones (SMSand MMS), callback and on-hold mobile ring tones.
The fundamental concept in digital marketing is based on customer
centric approach.
Digital marketers examine things like what is being viewed, how
often and for how long, sales conversions, what content works and
doesn’t work, etc. While the Internet is, perhaps, the channel most
closely associated with digital marketing, others include wireless
text messaging, mobile instant messaging, mobile apps, podcasts,
electronic billboards, digital television and radio channels, etc.
The thumb rule in digital marketing is to know customers well
but also understand community of customers in given product
segments & virtual intelligence of their buying behavior. Market-
ers need a consolidated view of customer preferences and expec-
tations across all channels. These channels are web, social media,
mobile, direct mail, point of sale, online sellers etc. Marketers can
use this information to create and anticipate constant, coordinated
customer experiences that will move customers along in the buy-
ing cycle. The deeper the insight into customer behaviorand prefer-
ences will help marketers to engage them in lucrative interactions.
Though digital marketing and its associated channels are
important,complete exclusion of traditional channelscannot be
ruled out.
Digital marketing comes with certain challenges:
yy Explosion of digital channels: Consumers use multiple digital
channels and a variety of devices that use different set of rules,
specifications and interfaces and they interact with those devic-
es in different ways and for different purposes. Hence market-
ers need to be alert and vigilant in keeping up with customer’s
choices.
yy Digital marketing intensifies competition: Digital channels are
Shri Rushin H.Vadhani
AGM – Market Research & Product Development
Welspun Syntex Ltd

14
relatively cheap, compared with traditional media, making
them within reach of practically every business of every size. As
a result, it has intensified competition in all business spheres. It
is difficult to capture consumers’ attention.
yy Exploding data volumes: Consumers leave behind a huge trail
of data in digital channels. Hence it’s extremely difficult to lay
hands on all that data, as well as to find the right data within
exploding data volumes that can help marketers make the right
decisions.
E-commerce retailers like flipkart,amazon,e-bay,PayTm,shopclu
es,snapdeal,make my trip ,book my show,myntra , jabong ,zomato
& many more are using digital media tools to promote & grow their
business to higher volumes.
Their business model are based on virtual intelligence & digital
media.
In recent times, India has witnessed growth in e-commerce
business & availability of product lines across demographics.
E-commerce has a standout year in 2015 , where it grew in size
from $ 5 billion to $ 8 billion touching every aspect of our life. In-
creased use of digital media is helping existing & new companies
to increase number of more users thus building economy of scales.
According to googlesurvey , approximately 50 million users
transacted during 2015 due to availability of smartphoneselectronic
gadgets ,broadband services & convenient linkages to payment
gateways.
E-commerce is getting deeper from B-towns to rural areas &
strategizing business with more aggression thus creating boom in
retail business beyond expectation.
With the emergence of the internet ,digital marketing and
improvements in mobile technology, organizations are taking ad-
vantage of the worldwide consumer market by using Ecommerce
Integration. It will play a larger role in maximizing business revenue
& improve work efficiency in years to come.
References :
1. www.digitalmarketingtraining.co.in
2. www.wikipedia.org
3. www.economictimes.com
4. Economic Times Newspaper dated14’Jan’15
5. http://drvidyahattangadi.com
6. Google images 9
India is a country having an ancient clothing design tradition, yet
an emerging fashion industry. Before 1980s, a handful of designers
existed but the late 80’s and the 90’s witnessed growth. This was
the result of increasing exposure to global fashion and the econom-
ic boom after the economic liberalization of the Indian economy.
Post-independence the focus was on revival of traditional textile
and design, leading to the rise of “ethnic-chic”. History of clothing
in India, dates back to the ancient times, where we could see the
traditional Indian clothing with regional variations, in the form of
a sari, ghagra-choli or dhoti, which remained popular till early dec-
ades of post-independence. Then came the time where we could
see a decline which was soon followed by a period of revival, where
various organizations were involved in reviving traditional Indian
techniques, in weaving, printing, dyeing or embroidery, including
ikat, patola (double-ikat), bandhani (tie & dye) and shisha (mirror
embroidery). Bollywood movies have the calibre to create new and
exclusive fashion statements. The costume Designers have a big
role to play as we can see since ancient times.
Bhanu Athaiya’s eventful journey of designing the costumes in
the Indian Film began with Jab Pyar Kisi Se Hota Hai (1961), Satyam
Shivam Sundaram (1978), Lagaan (2001) and Swades (2004) etc. It
is Bhanu Athaiya who dressed actress sadhana in tight-fitting sal-
war kameez setting a fashion trend that lasted well into the 1970’s.
Athaiya pays particular attention to character’s dressing and the
historical settings of the film. This accounts to the critical acclaim
that she has won such period dramas as ‘Sahib Biwi Aur Gulam’ ,
Journey of costumes Designers in the
Bollywood Industry
Mrs. Anju Tulshyan (Assistant Professor)
Co-author Ms. Disha Zatakia (Undergraduate student)
Department of Textiles & Apparel Designing
S.V.T. College of Home Science (Autonomous) S.N.D.T Women’s University
Juhu, Mumbai -400049
COVER STORY

’Reshma Aur Shera’ and ‘Gandhi’. Her costumes for Gulzar’s ‘Lekin’
made her won National Film Award for Best costume Designer in
the year 1990.
Anna Singh has designed costumes for over 900 films and has
been working since 1998.With 25 years experience working in the
industry, Anna Singh began her career in 1989 working on the Sal-
man Khan starrer Maine Pyar Kiya. Since then the designer has
gone on to work on 998 films including Khalnayak (1993); 1942:
A Love Story (1994); Hum Apke Hai Kaun (1994); Bombay (1995);
Border (1997); Refugee (2000); Khakee (2004); Omkara (2006) and
Once Upon A Time In Mumbai (2010). Singh has also gained a place
in the Guinness Book of World Records for her contribution to In-
dian cinema. Notable achievement for Singh include winning two
National Awards for her work in Taj Mahal and Umrao Jaan as well
as receiving the Rajiv Gandhi Excellence Award for her contribution
to fashion design and research on the movie Mission Kashmir.
Manish Malhotra At the age of 25, Manish Malhotra forayed
into Bollywood by designing for Juhi Chawla in Swarg. Today, his
name is synonymous with style in Hindi films. He revolutionized the
fashion scene in Bollywood by envisioning a ‘look’ for the charac-
ter. His tenure as a costume-designer has seen him clothe most of
the leading actresses in the film industry from Sridevi, Urmila Ma-
tondkar, Karishma Kapoor, Kajol, Raveena Tandon, Manisha Koira-
la, Madhuri Dixit, Twinkle Khanna, Shilpa Shetty, Kareena Kapoor,
to Aishwarya Rai, Rani Mukherjee and Preity Zinta.. His popularity
soared during this period when he was exclusively asked to design
clothes for Michael Jackson for his appearance during the Bolly-
wood Awards held in New York.
Sabyasachi Mukherjee styles differ from those of the other
fashion designers in the industry. He prefers odd, irregular cuts and
lengths of clothes. He designed for stars in the movies Black, Paa,
Guzarish and Ravan.
Neeta Lulla is also a well known fashion designer of Bollywood.
Neeta has also received acclaim both in India and overseas. Lulla’s
been in the Indian fashion industry for decades and has designed
costumes for some of Bollywood’s most iconic films like ‘Jodha Ak-
bar’. She’s known for her traditional Indian clothing including sa-
rees and shararas, but she also designs modern, sleek Indian cloth-
ing. Neeta Lulla is a big brand when it comes to bridal trousseau.
She also won the National Award for her striking collections and
contribution to the Indian fashion world.
Role of a Costume Designer In bollywood : A Costume designer
createsthelookofeachcharacterbydesigningclothesandaccesso-
ries the actors will wear during a performance. Depending on their
style and complexity, costumes may be made, bought, revamped
out of existing stock or rented. Their designs need to faithfully re-
flect the personalities of the characters in the script. The shapes,
colours and textures that a costume designer chooses, makes an
immediate and powerful visual statement to the audience. Creative
collaboration among the costume designer, the director and the
set and lighting designers ensures that the costumes are smoothly
integrated into the production as a whole.
Costume designers begin their work by reading the script to be
produced. If the production is set in a specific historical era, the
fashions of this period will need to be researched. To stimulate the
flow of ideas at the first meeting with the director and the design,
the costume designer may want to present a few rough costume
sketches.This is also an appropriate time to check with the direc-
tor on the exact number of characters needing costumes, as any
non-speaking characters the director plans to include may not have
been listed in the script.
It is the costume designer’s responsibility to draw up the cos-
tume plot. The costume plot is a list or chart that shows which
characters appear in each scene, what they are wearing and their
overall movement throughout the play.When the director and pro-
duction team have approved the costume designer’s preliminary
sketches, she or he can draw up the final costume designs. The final
designs are done in full colour. They show the style, silhouette, tex-
tures, accessories and unique features of each costume.
Bollywood is one of the most influencing forces behind the lat-
est fashion. Young girls and boys follow Bollywood fashion trends
blindly. They follow trends set by their favourite Bollywood actor
and actresses. Bollywood clothing is accepted in everyday’s life-
style. Bollywood fashion guides young generation to know the
fashion and what’s in demand. Whether it’s a wedding, special af-
fair or any other kind of occasion that demands elegant Asian fash-
ion, Bollywood fashion can be seen everywhere making its huge
presence.
References
1. http://www.ukessays.com/essays/film-studies/role-and-importance-of-a-
costume-designer-film-studies-essay.php
2. http://ijsrm.in/v2-i1/3%20ijsrm.pdf
3. http://www.jagranjosh.com/current-affairs/bhanu-athaiya-first-indian-
to-win-oscar-decided-to-return-her-trophy-1355550026-1
4. http://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/creative-class/creative-
class-anaita-shroff-adajania-stylist
5. http://www.metromela.com/designers/neeta-lulla-with-ethnic-anarkali-
suits/
6. http://bollyspice.com/59081/100-years-of-bollywood-iconic-costumes-
by-ana-singh
7. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anna_Singh 9
Garment Industry Recruitment Trends 2016
Introduction
India’s Garment Industry isa well-organized enterprise and is
among the best in the world. It constitutes of designers, manu-
facturers, exporters, suppliers, stockists, and wholesalers. Indian
Garment Industry has carved out a niche in the global markets and
earned a reputation for its durability, quality and beauty. Today’s
changing consumer preferences - buying branded apparel and fash-
ion accessories, major boom in retail industry, people shopping at
COVER STORY
Shri Saurabh Agarwal

16
department and discount stores, shopping malls, with rising dis-
posable incomes, government policy focused on fast-track textile
export growth, and ambitious goals have created several invest-
ment opportunities in India.
Growth
The Indian textiles industry is set for strong growth, buoyed by
strong domestic consumption as well as export demand.
The most significant change in the Indian textiles industry has
been the advent of man-made fibres (MMF). India has successfully
placed its innovative range of MMF textiles in almost all the coun-
tries across the globe.
Recruitment Trends
Recruitment is an ever evolving industry, especially with the
growth of technology and social media. The way that candidates
are sourced, jobs are advertised and businesses develop their em-
ployer brands are all things that have been adapting over the years.
Whereas job boards are still going strong, like in previous years;
social media is on the rise and is now central to recruitment pro-
cesses all over the world.
Recruitment Trends I Garment Industry
As the overall textile industry is most legendary industry and
till today most of textile manufacturer use classical way to recruit
the talent they want by the way more of reference or through well-
known consultant. But the big players like Vardhman Group, LNJ
Bhilwara Group, Alok Industries and many other have taken route
of modern recruitment trends.
The SME garment manufactures as they face stiff competi-
tion due to large numbers each of the garment manufactures are
forced to work on small margin and hence focus is on how to be
effective cost wise while recruiting professionals for their enter-
prise. They would rather use traditional method of reference point
recruitment or through small job consultant who can serve them at
low cost sacrificing on the quality of the skills
This need to be addressed by educating them the importance
of recruiting the right candidate through modern means of recruit-
ment that is social media and through professional talent acquisi-
tion companies. 9
TUFS
Central government declared new TUFS policy in which notifi-
cation is about remaining TUFS subsidy funds. But this notification
is not clear to many of the industry people. Embroidery machines
subsidy is not clear, surat industry planning many big investment
in embroidery segment, they are not very happy. Surat’s weav-
ing , embroidery, processing segments have more than 1000 cases
pending from 2-3 years. Surat industry have made one committee
by chamber, for subsidy, data will be collected and will be present-
ed in front of textile commissioner.
Central Government declared 17822 crore of fund ( 12671 crore
for old cases and 5151 crore for new cases). But with previous UID
number and subsidy there is no clarification given. New UID num-
ber will be generated or not, which segment how many subsidy
requested, cases pending etc. all will be discussed with the textile
commissioner. A-TUFS capital subsidy reduced to 10-15 %, here they
have given limitation for investment.
PROMISSORY NOTE
To reduce the cheating and bankruptcy of Surat grey fabric
manufacture, weavers association decided to start the Promissory
note. Promissory note means a letter prepared during fabric sales.
In surat, past years many cheating cases have been seen, last
year more than 30 companies are bankrupted. Many weavers,
small traders suffered losses due to this. Traders’ bankruptcy af-
fects the weavers most. Due to lack of strong documents weavers
can’t take any legal action towards traders and dealers. FOSTA sup-
ports weavers, so last meeting they discussed regarding promisso-
ry note and new regulations will be implemented for new business,
this not have revenue stamp with duly sign and stamp of weavers,
traders and grey fabric distributors. Even traders’ photo ID, address
also will be taken.
SYNTHETIC YARN PRICES DOWN BY 15%
Synthetic city Surat, synthetic yarn prices are lowest. Interna-
tional market crude oil prices and yarn basic raw material prices
fluctuation resulted in low price in yarn. In a year, process and roto
based yarns prices reduced to 10-15%. At beginning of the year Bar-
rel price is USD 48, yarn price in May 2015 gone to USD 62.51. Yarn
raw material perazailin, PTA, MEG prices are reduced, so yarn prices
are reduced. On 31st October, 2015 yarn basic raw material PTA / kg
is RS. 45.25, now it’s Rs. 41. Same way MEG was at Rs. 44.34 / Kg,
now it’s Rs. 39/ Kg, FGPET was at Rs. 62 / Kg now it’s Rs. 56/ Kg. So
reducing trends of raw material prices are making market gloomy.
Spinners give Rs. 3 to 4 discounts, still no new purchase. Now spin-
ners, texurisers are making yarns as per demand only.
YARN PRICE IN SURAT
PER BARREL CRUDE OIL PRICE IN USD
Surat report
QUALITY NOW PRICE / KG 1 YEAR BEFORE PRICE / KG
80 Crimp Rs. 91-93 Rs. 106-107
90 Crimp Rs. 90-92 Rs. 104-105
100 Crimp Rs. 89-90 Rs. 103-104
80/72 Roto Rs. 94-96 Rs. 108-109
MONTH CRUDE OIL (USD)
May 2015 62.51
June 2015 61.30
July 2015 54.43
August 2015 45.72
September 2015 46.29
October 2015 46.96
November 2015 43.13
December 2015 37.40
January 2016 30.32
COVER STORY

There is a long road ahead for Africa to emulate East Asia
The great steel roofs of Nigeria’s textile mills are an impressive
sight, occupying block after block in the northern city of Kano. Yet
from the ground a very different picture emerges. Entire estates sit
eerily empty in what was once the country’s industrial heartland. A
handful of indigo-dye pits and the odd leather tannery constitute
what little is left of a manufacturing business that was booming
just a couple of decades ago. The collapse of Nigeria’s textile indus-
try, which has gone from employing more than 350,000 people to
fewer than a tenth as many, reflects a wider problem of deindustri-
alisation across Africa that has occurred during a decade of rapid
growth driven by high commodity prices.
Over the past 15 years sub-Saharan African economies have
expanded at an average rate of about 5% a year, enough to have
doubled output over the period. They were helped largely by a
commodities boom that was caused, in part, by rapid urbanisation
in China. As China’s economy has slowed, the prices of many com-
modities mined in Africa have slumped again. Copper, for instance,
now sells for about half as much as it did at its peak. This, in turn, is
hitting Africa’s growth: the IMF reckons it will slip to under 4% this
year, leading many to fret that a harmful old pattern of commodity-
driven boom and bust in Africa is about to repeat itself. One of the
main reasons to worry is that Africa’s manufacturing industry has
largely missed out on the boom.
The figures are stark. The UN’s Economic Commission says
reckons that from 1980 to 2013 the African manufacturing sector’s
contribution to the continent’s total economy actually declined
from 12% to 11%, leaving it with the smallest share of any developing
region. Moreover, in most countries in sub-Saharan Africa, manu-
facturing’s share of output has fallen during the past 25 years. A
comparison of Africa and Asia is striking. In Africa manufacturing
provides just over 6% of all jobs, a figure that barely changed over
more than three decades to 2008. In Asia the figure grew from 11%
to 16% over the same period.
To be sure, many countries de-industrialise as they grow richer
(growth in service-based parts of the economy, such as entertain-
ment, helps shrink manufacturing’s slice of the total). But many Af-
rican countries are de-industrialising while they are still poor, rais-
ing the worrying prospect that they will miss out on the chance to
grow rich by shifting workers from farms to higher-paying factory
jobs.
Premature deindustrialisation is not just happening in Africa—
other developing countries are also seeing the growth of factories
slowing, partly because technology is reducing the demand for
low-skilled workers. Manufacturing has become less labour inten-
sive across the board. That means that it is hard, and getting hard-
er, for African firms to create jobs in the same numbers that Asian
ones did from the 1970s onwards.
Yet deindustrialisation appears to be hitting African countries
particularly hard. This is partly because weak infrastructure drives
up the costs of making things. The African Development Bank
found in 2010 that electricity, a large cost for most manufacturers,
costs three times more on average in Africa than it does even in
South Asia. Poor roads and congested ports also drive up the cost
of moving raw materials about and shipping out finished goods.
Africa’s second disadvantage is, perversely, its bounty of natu-
ral riches. Booming commodity prices over the past decade brought
with them the “Dutch disease”: economies benefiting from in-
creased exports of oil and the like tend to see their exchange rates
driven up, which then makes it cheaper to import goods such as
cars and fridges, and harder to produce and export locally manu-
factured goods.
Africa’s final snag is its geography. East Asia’s string of suc-
cesses happened under the “flying geese” model of development,
where a “lead” country creates a slipstream for others to follow.
This happened first in the 1970s, when Japan moved labour-inten-
sive manufacturing to Taiwan and South Korea. But Africa seems
to have missed the flock. Africa leads leading goose like Japan.
Light manufacturing is leaving China for neighbouring Bangladesh,
Vietnam, Thailand & Indonesia rather than distant Africa, despite its
promise of plentiful cheap labour. And in the coming century Africa
will find it difficult to grow through that route.
Yet some African countries are bucking the trend. Ethiopia’s
manufacturing has grown by an average of over 10% a year in 2006-
14, from a very low base, partly because it has courted foreign
investors. We approached Holland’s horticultural firms, China’s
textile and leather firms and Turkey’s garment firms. Now we’re
bringing in German and Swiss pharmaceuticals.
Leading Economist feels that Ethiopia’s relative success has
come from its focused policy. Poor countries often find it hard to
decide whether to spread their new infrastructure widely or to fo-
cus on the most promising areas. Rather than electrify the whole
country, Ethiopia has concentrated on providing power and trans-
port links to its industrial parks. It also seems wise to bring in firms
with links to industries that already exist there. Domestic firms
learn from being in the same value chain as the foreign firm. Firms
buying from local suppliers tend to raise local quality by sending
managers and technicians to them. This helps them to produce
more sophisticated goods.
Ethiopia is not alone. Tanzania, where manufacturing output
has grown 7.5% annually from 1997-2012, is wooing Chinese and Sin-
gaporean clothing firms and started building its first mega port and
industrial park last month.
Nonetheless, factories are not creating nearly enough jobs for
the millions of young people moving into cities each year. Most
of them end up in part-time employment in low-productivity busi-
Industrialisation in Africa
GLOBAL FOCUS
Mr. Arvind Sinha
CEO & President
M/s. Business Advisors Group
arpsinha09@gmail.com
lionasinha@gmail.com

18
nesses such as groceries or restaurants, which are limited by the
tiny domestic economy; Africa generates only 2% of the world’s de-
mand. To grow fast, African countries need to shift workers into
more productive industries. Their governments need to provide
the infrastructure and the incentives for manufacturing firms to set
up. Without determined action, they risk another lost decade as the
commodity bust deepens.
However, Africa particularly Nigeria, Tanzania & Ethiopia are
facing boom of start ups. Many individual enterprises has come
up and are focusing on small manufacturing facilities, innovations
which are helping them. Today Social Media is a great help to pro-
mote them worldwide. Many Industries such as garmenting par-
ticularly leather and high value shirts are getting manufactured and
going all over the world.
Chinese investment in Africa is becoming a real blessing and
there is a possibility in the long run China will help industrialisation
in Africa. 9
Generally Hindu festival starts from Janmashtami ends with
Diwali, Isalm’s Ramadan & Eid & Christian’s Christmas. All the fes-
tive season failed in year 2015 for garment & fabric manufacturer/
traders. Heavy winter prone area- northern region of India, which
is mostly cater by Ludhiana market is also in distress due to warm
winter not cool winter.
Almost every manufacturer loaded with unsold inventories,
saving in grace. Fabric prices are now comfortable to garment man-
ufacturer. Fabric business is in distress. Fabric prices are on decline.
In February 2016, lot of discount sales will be seen in market. There
are two main season for garment business. One is Festive season
like Dassera/ Diwali/Ramadan. Other season is month of March/
April/ May, where people go for holiday, they buy clothes changing
their attire. June is slimmest season, as expenses done on holidays,
school fees, school requirements (uniform business is on growth
in this season)
Many new entrants in the industry. As this industry do not re-
quired any special technology, anyone can start business/ produc-
tion with only 6 machines and sell with different channels (Home
based/ Online/ Ladies Entrepreneurs etc). New entrant also got
entry into retail stores/outlets too, succumb to unfair demand of
retail/ wholesale stores. Online business disturbing retail business.
Maximum business gone to Footpath / pavement hawkers. More
than 30-35% business is with pavement hawkers. Good brand, good
quality products they sell.They compete with stores with no over-
heads, no publicity, not taxes to pay, only expenses is daily “Hafta”.
Slowly new marketing channel is entering to market, which will be
dangerous in long term. Big manufacturer sell to organised retail
stores as to give their brand a boost. For the Matter of credit and
payment by big retail stores, garment manufacturer are reluctant
to talk about.
• Payment default: CMAI formed committee under leadership of
kirtibhai , which taking many great pains to see that menace is
reduced. The prevalent practice is as far as Bombay industrial
estate concern, near entrance or lift, gala owners List who have
defaulted in that industrial estate (not made payment more
than 6, 9 , 12 months) have been kept. This information updated
every month and this also available CMAI website. This is Cau-
tions List for the fabric suppliers, retailers, distributors. But still
few supply to listed owners due to lull and dullness in the mar-
ket.
• Online was a craze, but manufacture are not clear whether its
decline or going to stay. Manufacturer has mix experience with
online selling, as return policy make their distribution cost high-
er this gives them a wafer thin margin. MRP price quotation is
totally deceptive. Discounts on MRP(Maximum Retail Price), no
one knows real MRP.
• Big brands style copied so fast and duplicate brand available
in the market. Levis accessory like button, label and zipper will
get in Rs.30-40. It’s easy to copy and sell. Today made up (fake)
brands are on growth. This brands not available in big store but
local stores are keeping them. All brands copied this fake brands
big factor against consumer.
• Brand is not having their own manufacturing unit affect the
brand long term. As fake brand and local brand manufacturer
make the same fabric in same factory, so there is practically no
difference between branded and non branded garments. Only
marketing, packaging, services given by branded garments wins
over non branded.
• Weight and measurement harassment for Packaging, size, open
piece are low now. Everyone is waiting for titan judgement for
weight and measurement case. This gives relief, positivity and
confidence in the garment market. Industry hoping to dissolve
this problem permanently.
• Industry keenly looking forward GST will be applicable which will
reduce lot of headache and paper work of manufacture. CMAI
is fighting for % of GST, it should be 10-15% only. Entire country
waiting for GST.
• Export: As Indian festive season fail, almost same way Christmas
was not good for garment exporter. The main reason is slow
off take in EEC countries (Europeans country, though USA is not
that bad not as good as past. In past EU fashion season runs
like Pantone PALE PINK in in fashion, all should have pale pink
one garment in their wardrobe. But now European has more
Indian mindset, they spend more on primary product category
like food, education, saving etc. Garment is secondary category
purchase after food.
• Though Bangladesh not able to sustain its growth, china prices
slightly on higher side, maximum benefits gone to Vietman.
They are very aggressive & have competitive price. Home mar-
ket in china is now growing so not export surplus.
• Make in India is theory, but all manufacturers wants their manu-
facturing factory in china specially in Toys, school stationary cat-
egory.
• Bangladesh common man is poor, government problem, fastest
growing economy is Vietnam.
Global brands wants to enter 135 crore population country ie In-
dia, biggest market. 9
Garment Report
GLOBAL FOCUS
By - Shri Shanti bhai Shah
Founder of CMAI Committee Member

The growing prominence of government policies and the
marked growth of the textile industry over the last few years made
way for a positive business platform at ITMACH Bhiwandi. Owing
to the radiance and as an answer to the evolving business environ-
ment, ITMACH Bhiwandi is back with a bang this year and open to
visitors from 17th-19th December 2015.
The show opened with a renewed vigour and optimism this
year at Bhiwandi today. ITMACH Bhiwandi 2015 aims to stand true
to its reputation once again and has set the stage for investment
and newer opportunities right on the first day.
The visitors flow peaked by noon and by the end of the day it
signals to a steady start of the exhibition. The exhibitors reported
a good bank of queries right at day one. “We were not really ex-
pecting much considering the venue being in Bhiwandi. However,
we have to say we entertained a series of positive queries today,”
informed an excited R. Anbazhahan, Managing Director, Reiniger
Welker. When asked about the quality of the queries, he further
added, “Compared to what we expected, when people call us to
say that they are visiting the exhibition to see our machines work-
ing live and then leave a query for us. We eagerly wait to readdress
the queries post the exhibition. These queries are definitely qualita-
tive business responses.”
Following the overwhelming response of 2014, Bhiwandi has
mapped several success stories so far. A shift from shuttle to shut-
tleless looms, an opening for the processing industry etc. ITMACH
Bhiwandi 2015 closely follows on this path to success. The show
was inaugurated by Tushar Chowdhury, Mayor, Bhiwandi and Su-
mit P Patil, Corporator, BNCMC today at Bhiwandi. The honourable
chief guests were immensely vocal about the positive develop-
ments taking place at Bhiwandi. “ITMACH Bhiwandi is pioneering
developments within the textile sector. The machines on display
demonstrate a worldview. The industry here definitely takes an
effort to go and fetch improved machinery from the world over,
but bringing them back home and that too solely for a cluster is
definitely a commendable work,” commented Tushar Chowdhury.
“ITMACH Bhiwandi understands the importance of firsthand
experience and our effort has always been to get the international
developments of the textile industry closer to home. Promoting
the development of textile clusters in Western India has always
been our priority and ITMACH is just a stepping stone of our efforts.
Uplifting the textile clusters and bringing them face to face with
the bigger developments of the industry, proved beneficial the last
year. This year is a renewed effort for the same,” remarks an enthu-
siastic Arvind Semlani, Director, ITMACH India.
Visitors on the first day were definitely a proof of the growing
success of the show over the years. Visitors from Malegaon, Surat,
Ichalkaranji, Kolhapur, Belgaum, Tarapur, and Bhiwandi dropped in
to meet the technology providers. “The show is set on a smooth
step by step progress. And it is certainly an interesting feeling to
come and interact with the industry and have such quality business
discussions here at Bhiwandi,” spoke a happy Manchhalal K Jain,
Director, Shree Daksh Jyot Silk Mills, Bhiwandi.
ITMACH Bhiwandi is growing from strength to strength on the
path of progress and meeting its aim to bring technology closer to
customers. 9
A Steady Start To The 2nd Edition of ITMACH
Bhiwandi
POST SHOW REPORT

20
POST SHOW REPORT
Yarn Fabric and Accessories Trade Show
2015, New Delhi, Fibres to Accessories Show,
Proves Skeptics Wrong
yy 7,477 buyers visit YFA Trade Show 2015
yy Most exhibitors pleased with participation
yy Buyers too return satisfied from YFA Trade Show 2015
Yarn Fabric and Accessories Trade Show 2015, New Delhi
proved skeptics wrong and turned out to be a major hit with both,
exhibitors as well as buyers, as a majority of suppliers at the show
expressed full satisfaction with their participation, while most of
the buyers too said they were satisfied with their visit to the first of
its kind South Asian show.
YFA Trade Show 2015, which was held over four days from Dec
14-17, 2015 at the NSIC Exhibition Centre in New Delhi saw over
7,477 buyers visiting the trade show to see innovative and value-
added fibres, yarns, fabrics and garment accessories.
The fair was inaugurated by Shri. Santosh Kumar Gangwar,
Textile Minister, Govt. of India, Gracing the event Shri. Santosh Ku-
mar Gangwar added “YFA Trade Show 2015 has done a great job
by bringing entire textile value chain ( fiber, yarns, fabric, acces-
sories ) under one roof, this fair will be very helpful in growing of
textile sector in this part of the country.” Praising the efforts of
the organizers, he said “My doors are always open for organizers
with new ideas like this for the upliftment of textile and apparel in-
dustry in India.” Using the YFA Trade Show platform, Shri. Santosh
Kumar Gangwar also announced the new textile policy that would
revealed in coming few days.
The exhibitor list included the who’s who of the Indian and
global textile industry from the textile value-chain beginning from
fibres till garment accessories included the likes of Reliance Indus-
tries, Indorama Synthetics, Asahi Kasei fibres, Amarjothi Spinning
Mills, TT Ltd, Madeira India, Garden Silk Mills and many others.
With the total count of exhibitors reaching around 100, YFA Trade
Show’s first edition (2015) was undoubtly a smashing hit.
These companies exhibited and a few even launched the most
innovative and latest developments in value-added textile products
like speciality fibres, multifunctional yarns, mélange yarns, spandex
yarn, embroidery yarn, bamboo fabrics, modal fabrics, metal gar-
ment accessories and various other garment accessories.
Sharing his wonderful experience at the show, Mr. Brijesh Jain,
Vice President, TT Ltd said, “So far, it has been good as all the visi-
tors who have visited our stall are relevant and genuine and we
have also been able to make new contacts and hope to convert
them in to business in the near future and we would definitely
come back for the next edition.”
Mr. Akshay Kumar, Sales Director at German embroidered
threads producer Madeira stated, “The response to our products
has been unexpected and has exceeded my expectations. We have
had quality buyers visiting our stall and going by the response at
this edition, we would definitely like to return next year.”
“Although the show has been held for the first time, we are
very satisfied with our presence as on the second day, we did not
have time for lunch,” Mr. Raj Kapadia, President (Sales & Business
Development), Sanathan Textiles Limited informed.
“We met many new buyers most of them who were genuine
and came from as far as Bangalore and Tirupur. Additionally, we
also met our old buyers, with whom we stand a chance of reviv-
ing business and we will return next year with a bigger stall,” Mr.
Kapadia added.
Among the visitors who visited YFA Trade Show 2015 were deci-
sion makers like Sourcing Head’s, Purchase Manager’s, Head Mer-
chandiser’s, Sales Head’s, Country Manager’s from composite mills,
spinning mills, knitters, weavers, yarn agents, importers, exporters,
buying houses, designers, retail chains, etc.
Mr. Pradeep Kumar, Sourcing head at Shree Bharat Internation-
al Pvt. Ltd. remarked, “My visit to the YFA Show was very fruitful
as I got to meet many suppliers of fabrics and garment accessories
from across India and I was also able to reconnect with a few sup-
pliers with whom we used to do business earlier.”
Mr. Vikram Jajoo, Director, Vaibhav Yarn Pvt. Ltd. Delhi and
a yarn agent of several textile companies informed, “I am a yarn
agent and I came to the YFA Show on the invite of several exhibi-
tors who are participating at the show and whom I represent. This
type of show is needed for North India as there are no other shows
of this type and it was a good experience.”
The closing ceremony and participation momentos have been
distributed by Shri. Puneet Kumar, IAS, Secretary General, AEPC. To
share his words of encouragement, Shri. Puneet Kumar personally
visited all of the stalls in the exhibition.
The organizer duo of Abhishek Sharma and Ankur Goel said,
“We thank all the participating exhibitors and visitors who visited
the show for making the first edition of YFA 2015 successful. We
had 7,477 quality buyers visiting the show, a very high number for a
first ever edition of its kind.
“We have noted all the observations made by exhibitors and
visitors and will go all-out to incorporate all these suggestions for
the 2016 edition to make it more bigger and better than the 2015
show and look back to welcoming back all participating exhibitors
and the buyers too for the next YFA Trade Show (2016) show,” they
added. 9

First Indian Navy- Itta Clothing & Footwear
Seminar Cum Exhibition Held
The Indian Technical Textile Association (ITTA) in association
with Indian Navy, supported by the Office of the Textile Commis-
sioner- Ministry of Textile organized a two day Clothing and Foot-
wear Seminar cum Exhibition at Mulla Auditorium at Navy Nagar,
Colaba Defence Station, Mumbai.
First Indian Navy- ITTA Seminar Cum Exhibition on Clothing and
Footwear was attended by more than 300 delegates from both the
Indian Navy and the Technical Textiles Industry.
The exhibition showcased the entire technical textile and Foot-
wear products developed by various manufacturers showing the
possible improvements of the different products used by the Indi-
an Navy. Some of the prominent exhibitors are- Raymond, Arvind,
Welspun, Shiva Texyarn, Venus safety, RSWM, ACCENT Inds., Euro
safety, Liberty, Mayur, Bata, etc. In addition, Indian Navy displayed
their entire range of products currently used by them.
Session I – Inaugural Session
The two day seminar was inaugurated by Vice Admiral SPS
Cheema, Flag Officer Commanding-in-Chief Western Naval Com-
mand. He said that India is known world over for its textile industry
and pointing out on the procedural difficulties faced by the services
and vendors, he emphasized that the procurement procedures are
being reviewed by the government. He added that this Seminar is
yet another effort by the Indian Navy towards achieving improve-
ment in quality of clothing and footwear. He also requested the
participants to use this opportunity to understand each other’s re-
quirements and come out with the solutions.
Dr. Kavita Gupta (IAS), Textile Commissioner, addressed the
delegates highlighting the importance of different segments of the
Technical Textile and its growth rate of in India. She also spoke in
details about the initiatives taken by government on the promotion
and growth of technical textiles. He appreciated the efforts take by
ITTA to bring together Indian Navy and the Indian Technical Textile
Industry along with the regular segments of the Textile Industry,
through the seminar and exhibition to understand and improve the
quality and supply of the products used by Indian Navy.
In his keynote address , Mr. Gautam Singhania, CMD, Raymonds
group representing the textile industry, he apprised the audience
about the developments in textile industry which can be of great
use to the armed forces and also talked on the huge scope of using
technical textiles in Indian Navy, like fire retardant, antimicrobial,
water proof, etc products.
Vice Admiral Jaywant Kode, Controller of Logistics, Ministry of
Defence (Navy) spoke in his opening address, that this seminar has
been organized to have dialogue and better interaction between
the Indian Navy and the Technical Textile Industry.
Mr. Pramod Khosla, Chairman, ITTA, welcomed the delegates
and narrated the ITTA’s contributions during the last couple of
years to the growth of various segments of Indian Technical Textile
Industry and the objective of this seminar.
Session II – “NAVAL PROCUREMENT PROCEDURES, BUDGET-
ING & ASPIRATIONS OF INDIAN NAVY AND ITTA”
The Second technical session was chaired by R Adm. Satish Ba-
jaj, VSM, ACOL. The following presentation were made during this
session.
• Requirements & aspirations of indian navy by Capt. Arvind Vad-
hera, VSM highlighted that Indian Navy is 5th largest navy in
world using 409 distinct items which include regular uniform,
Protective Clothing, Safety Footwear, Technical Textile and Ex-
treme Winter Clothing, with an annual budget of around Rs. 100
Crores.
• Procurement procedures of indian navy by Cmde. G.S. Negi
briefed about the objective of public procurement, basis of pro-
curement, the procurement process in the Indian Navy and Ten-
dering.
• Organization, capabilities and aspirations of ITTA and indus-
try by Dr. K. S. Sundraraman, Vice Chairman, ITTA & ED, Shiva
Texyarn Ltd. emphasized about the ITTA which have nearly 300
members. He highlighted the importance of technical textiles,
areas of expertise of ITTA members and the Potential Applica-
tions for the Indian Navy.
Session III – “FUNCTIONAL & REGULAR CLOTHING REQUIRE-
MENT OF INDIAN NAVY” The third session was chaired by RAdm
Sunil Anand, NM CSO P& A, HQWNC and four papers were present-
ed.
yy Innovative developments to enhance clothing options for the
Indian Navy by Dr. Vijay Ramakrishnan, HOD & Mr. Sushil Hada-
TRADC, Grasim Inds., Gujarat highlighted the capability and ex-
pertise of Textile Research and Application Development Cen-
tre and also products developed by Grasim.
yy What Technical Textile Industry can offer to Indian Navy? by
Mr. Mahesh Kudav, MD, Venus Safety & Health, Mumbai em-
phasized on the different products which can be offered to In-
dian Navy by the Indian Technical Textile Industry. He presented
the product wise list of ITTA members which showed that al-
most all kinds of technical textile products are manufactured in
India, some may in developmental stage. However, it showed
that our Industry is well equipped to cater to the needs of the
Indian Navy .
yy Protecting the Protectors – Advances in Technical Textiles by
Mr. Atanu Acharya & Mr. Arindam Dasgupta Life Protection
Solutions, DuPont, South Asia had explained about the salient
features of Protective Textiles available in India and abroad and
used by the Navy of various countries.
yy Advanced Functional clothing & Garments for Indian Navy
by Mr. Basant Lohia, MD, Tarasafe International Pvt. Ltd.,
Ahmedabad presented a hole range of fire retardant and other
multi-functional Protective Textiles produced by the Tarasafe
International and other manufacturers.
Session IV- “Footwear requirement of Indian Navy”
The fourth session was chaired by Dr. Anup Rakshit, Executive
Director, ITTA and three papers were presented.
• Scope of improvement in Regular Footwear for Indian Navy by
POST SHOW REPORT

22
Mr. Shammi Bansal, Managing Driector, Liberty Shoes Ltd. high-
lighted the range of regular footwear product used by Indian
Navy and the possibilities of further development by using bet-
ter raw material and different technologies. He also narrated
the products developed by Liberty.
• Advanced Technology for Safety Footwear used by Indian Navy
and other countries by Mr. SK Neogi, Technical Director, Mayur
Leather products Ltd., Jaipur spoke on risk factors, like oil, wa-
ter, fire resistance, etc, which are to be considered for produc-
tion of the safety footwear. He added that a range of textile
components like Micro-fibre fabric, technical textiles, etc.
• Modernization of Accoutrements- “Badges and insignia “ by
Prof. Shakti Sagar Katre had highlighted the importance of
Badges and insignia on the uniforms of Indian Navy and the
work done by NIFT on solving certain quality issues of these
products. 9
POST SHOW REPORT
GrasimIndustriesLtd,AdityaBirlaGroupAnnounced
the First Edition of Liva Protégé 2015
Liva Protégé 2015, a pan India designer hunt for recognizing
India’s future stars in the field of fashion, takes pride in announc-
ing that after covering over 12 cities, top 50 fashion institutes and
touching more than a hundred students across India, it has reached
the final leg of the journey – the Grand Finale showcased the work
of its Top 12 finalists on 23rd December, 2015 in Mumbai.
The annual, pan-India hunt for the brightest fashion designers
in India, was open to final year students of select colleges. The com-
petition gives them chance to showcase their talent and get men-
tored by some of the biggest names in the industry.
The winner of Liva Protege gets an opportunity to work with
the prestigious in house design team of online fashion e com-
merce venture of Aditya Birla Group –ABOF.com (All About Fash-
ion) OR an opportunity to have upto 5 of his/her designs sold onw-
ww.abof.com besides a cash prize of INR2,00,000. The First runner
up gets an opportunity to have upto 3 of his/her designs sold on
www.abof.com and a cash prize of INR 1,00,000 . The Second run-
ner up will win a cash prize of INR50,000.
Liva Protégé is powered by Liva – a new-age fabric, from the
house of Birla Cellulose, designed to infuse incredible fluidity into
garments. It aims to tap into the great Indian talent pool and en-
sure that promising fashion designers in India get their rightful
place under the sun, and help India keep shining across the global
fashion landscape.
According to Mr. Manohar Samuel President Marketing, “As
one of the largest textile and fashion conglomerates in the country
we believe that Indian fashion landscape is extremely dynamic and
its talent pool rich and diverse. Liva is a new age natural fabric and
has been accepted well by the textile value chain. Liva Protégé is
our endeavour to bridge the gap and reach the budding fashion
designer fraternity. Our journey so far has been exciting, we are
overwhelmed with the creativity of the young talent. Clearly, the
future of Indian fashion is in competent hands.
In the first edition – Liva Protégé 2015 celebrated upcoming
trend and style to recognise innovation and breakthrough tal-
ent on a national scale. The finalists belonged to India’s top fash-
ion schools, namely, NIFT, Pearl, BD Somani, NID and Raffles. The
shortlisted designers represented a range of unique styles and tal-
ents with each of them having their own masterpieces that were
showcased yesterday.
The finalists showcased their collections through a fashion
show to an elite panel of judges which includes Actor Soha Ali
Khan, leading Fashion Designer Narendra Kumar, eminent fashion
photographer Prasad Naik, Editor of India edition of Cosmopolitan
magazine Nandini Bhalla and Founder and Chairperson of Svatan-
tra Micro Finance Ms Ananyashree Birla. Also present was the el-
egant Mrs. Rajashree Birla with her daughter in law, Mrs. Neerja
Birla. Cutting for a frame worthy family photo, the three generation
of ladies from the Birla family were all smiles.
The winner was Mr. Riturana Deori from Ahmedabad, the 1st
runner up was Mr. Nitin Gupta from Ahmedabad and the second
runner up was Ms. Sagarika Joshi from Bangalore. The winners
were selected based on aesthetics, design, fluidity and functional-
ity of creations. The fashion presentation was choreographed by
Shy Kalra. 9

International Cotton Advisory Committee
Statementofthe74thPlenaryMeeting“From
Farm to Fabric: The Many Faces of Cotton”
1 The International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC) met
in Mumbai, India, from December 7 to 11, 2015 for its 74th Plenary
Meeting since the establishment of the Committee in 1939. The
meeting was attended by 398 persons, including representatives
from 28 Members, 9 international organizations and 13 nonmem-
ber countries.
2 Cotton production falls below demand. The Secretariat
reported that, after five consecutive seasons of excess supply,
overall production had fallen below the estimated consumption in
the 2015/16 season. World stocks remain at very high levels. Inter-
national prices remain weak. Cotton demand continues to expand
at a slow rate as a result of sluggish world economic growth and
strong competition from synthetic fibers, especially polyester.
3 Government support measures reach record levels. In its
report on government support to cotton, the Secretariat estimated
that assistance reached US$10.4 billion in 2014/15, the highest level
since data began to be compiled in 1997/98. Large stocks accumu-
lated as a result of government intervention from 2011/12 to 2014/15
would remain the key factor in determining the fundamentals of
the cotton market for the foreseeable future.
4 Promotion of demand for cotton requires a multifaceted
approach. In order to improve the prospects for cotton, the Com-
mittee endorsed the recommendations received from the Private
Sector Advisory Panel, including:
• Members should ensure that fiber-content labels on textile
products be more visible, in order to allow consumers to make
informed choices and also promote transparency in the supply
chain;
• The Secretariat should conduct a study on the economic factors
underlying the growth of polyester production and demand,
thus enabling Members to better understand the dynamics of
competition among fibers; and
• Members should continue to approach the cotton sector in a
holistic manner, by implementing measures to encourage an
increased diversification of the uses of cotton, including com-
posites and technical textiles, and a wider use of cotton by-
products throughout the value chain, to add value to the sector.
5. Need for measures to facilitate international trade. The
Committee endorsed the recommendation received from the Pri-
vate Sector Advisory Panel (PSAP) regarding the need to standard-
ize phytosanitary certificates and recommended that the Secre-
tariat work with Members to raise awareness of this issue within
the World Trade Organization. The PSAP also noted that require-
ments for fumigation of cotton varied widely among countries and
instructed the Secretariat to obtain further information on possible
ways in which to reduce such differences.
6. Enforcement of arbitration awards must be improved in
order to promote the economic sustainability of the world cotton
trade. The Committee was informed that, although contractual dis-
putes had decreased in the last year, improvements are required in
the enforcement of arbitration awards. All members of the Com-
mittee are signatories of the 1958 Convention on the Recognition
and Enforcement of Foreign Arbitral Awards (commonly known
as the New York Convention), but claimants are often unable to
get their awards enforced. This was having a negative impact on
cotton trade and consumption. Members were reminded of their
obligations to ensure full compliance with the terms of the New
York Convention. Suggestions included ensuring judges are trained
in the application of foreign arbitral awards and making sure that
duly constituted commercial courts have the necessary expertise
for achieving settlement in a timely and efficient manner.
7. ICAC Members urge progress in negotiations at the
World Trade Organization. A representative of the World Trade Or-
ganization presented a summary of the current situation regarding
cotton in that body. The ICAC reaffirmed its support for a multilat-
eral trading system under the aegis of the WTO. WTO members had
committed themselves to treat cotton “ambitiously, expeditious-
ly and specifically”. The 10th Ministerial Conference of the WTO,
which will be held in Nairobi in December 2015, constituted a key
opportunity to demonstrate concrete progress in the removal of
government measures that distort the production and trade of cot-
ton.
8. Sustainability indicators begin to be tested. The Commit-
tee received a report from its Expert Panel on the Social, Environ-
mental and Economic Performance of Cotton Production (SEEP)
that highlighted field testing of the indicators and framework con-
tained in the joint ICAC/FAO publication “Measuring sustainability
in cotton farming systems: Towards a guidance framework”. The
Committee commended this work and recommended that the
SEEP Panel continue to coordinate and monitor the testing of the
indicators and guidance framework. The framework, however,
should remain a tool to be adapted to the reality of each country.
The Committee also noted the increasing use of Life Cycle Assess-
ment-based tools to assess the performance of cotton and that of
other raw materials (such as man-made fibers and wool) used in
the textile and apparel supply chain. A need exists to evaluate how
these tools are being used, as well as their potential impact on cot-
ton farmers and on the cotton supply chain.
9. Sustainability grows in importance for retailers and
consumers. The Committee appreciated a panel discussion on the
views on cotton of retailers, which revealed that the fashion and
home textile sectors have ambitious goals in terms of sustainable
sourcing. Their customers increasingly demand information about
the sustainability of the products they purchase. Concerns about
sustainability, including transparency and traceability, will become
more relevant over time.
10. Reduction in use of insecticides. During the Technical
Seminar on “Elimination of Insecticides from Cotton Production: Is
this Possible?”, the Committee received expert reports. Some ex-
perts expressed confidence that cotton can be successfully grown
without insecticides; other experts stated that it was not yet pos-
sible and noted the importance of Integrated Pest Management
POST EVENT REPORT

24
(IPM). Encouraging statistics were presented on reduced insecti-
cide use, especially through IPM techniques, in many countries. It
was observed that cotton has a much higher yield potential in cer-
tain cases than is currently realized. Improved cotton varieties are
important, but the interaction between variety and management is
vital for realizing optimum yields. While the role of biotechnology
approaches will continue to expand in the future, breeding will not
lose its significance. Molecular marker-assisted breeding is being
adopted and the genetic engineering of photosynthesis has great
potential for improving yields on the physiology side. Insecticide
use may lead to various consequential results, including: increased
use of insecticides due to resistance; reduced reliance on natural
biological control; emergence of new pests. A system approach is
needed that encourages the use of ecological options. Many non-
chemical insect control options, including biological management,
are available that are simple and easy to apply, but which must be
used on an area-wide basis.
11. Climate change is affecting cotton production. Several
countries reported that weather patterns are becoming increasing-
ly unstable as a result of climate change, with consequent impacts
on cotton production. Members welcomed the news that the Sec-
retariat had commissioned a special study on climate change and
cotton production in modern farming systems. It was noted that
measures to increase soil organic matter can help maintain long-
term soil fertility, while at the same time contributing to climate
change adaptation and mitigation. Members further noted that a
positive outcome at the Paris Climate Change Conference would
be a desirable step to attenuate the ongoing effects of climate
change.
12. Additional research into mechanized harvesters for
smallholders was required. A session on mechanized harvesters
for use in small landholdings revealed that commercially viable
machines are in advanced stages of development in some coun-
tries but not yet widely available. The Committee noted that the
decrease in availability of rural labor means that further investiga-
tion into practical solutions, such as mechanical harvesting, was
required.
13. Amendments to statutes enable the accession of the Eu-
ropean Union. The Steering Committee approved amendments to
the Rules and Regulations of the ICAC that will enable the acces-
sion of the European Union as a single member. During the first se-
mester of 2016, the Standing Committee will negotiate transitional
arrangements and deal with other outstanding issues with the EU,
in order to enable accession of the same at the beginning of the
2016/17 fiscal year. ICAC members expressed their satisfaction with
the possibility of EU membership, which would strengthen their or-
ganization.
14. Improved statistics are crucial for better decision-mak-
ing. A breakout session on the collection, compilation, analysis and
dissemination of cotton statistics generated a wide-ranging discus-
sion of ways in which to improve their reliability and availability.
Government and the official data will remain the primary source of
data on the overall performance of cotton. Accurate and timely sta-
tistics are vital for informed decision-making.
15. Topic of the 2016 Technical Seminar. ICAC members ap-
proved the recommendation of the Committee on Cotton Produc-
tion Research that the 2016 Technical Seminar should be dedicated
to the topic of “Emerging Pests in Cotton and their Control”.
16. World Cotton Research Conference. The Committee re-
ceived a report on preparations for the 6th World Cotton Research
Conference (WCRC-6), which will be held in Brazil in the city of
Goiânia, Goiás, from May 2 to 6, 2016. Registration and abstract
submission are now open and additional information on the Con-
ference is available at www.wcrc¬6.com. The WCRC-6 will be or-
ganized under the auspices of the International Cotton Research-
ers Association (ICRA), with major support from the ICAC.
17. Next meetings. The 75th Plenary Meeting will be held
in Islamabad, Pakistan, from October 31 to November 4, 2016. The
76th Plenary Meeting will be held in Mozambique
18. Appreciation for the hospitality of India. The Commit-
tee thanked the people, the Organizing Committee and the Gov-
ernment of India for their hospitality in serving as host of the 74th
Plenary Meeting. Delegates complimented the hosts on their warm
reception and the quality of the venue provided for the Plenary
Meeting.9
BEGINNING STOCKS
WORLD TOTAL 9.362 10.222 15.258 18.038 20.111 22.02
CHINA 2.688 2.087 6.181 9.607 12.088 12.85
USA 0.642 0.566 0.729 0.903 0.651 0.98
PRODUCTION
WORLD TOTAL 25.453 27.844 26.718 26.277 26.238 23.15
INDIA 5.865 6.239 6.205 6.770 6.507 6.27
CHINA 6.400 7.400 7.300 6.929 6.480 5.26
USA 3.942 3.391 3.770 2.811 3.553 2.90
PAKISTAN 1.948 2.311 2.002 2.076 2.305 1.90
BRAZIL 1.960 1.877 1.310 1.734 1.551 1.48
UZBEKISTAN 0.910 0.880 1.000 0.940 0.885 0.86
OTHERS 4.429 5.746 5.131 5.018 4.957 4.50
CONSUMPTION
WORLD TOTAL 24.611 22.782 23.559 23.883 24.224 24.36
CHINA 9.580 8.635 8.290 7.517 7.517 7.33
INDIA 4.472 4.231 4.762 5.186 5.359 5.52
PAKISTAN 2.170 2.121 2.216 2.476 2.497 2.25
EAST ASIA 1.833 1.780 2.139 2.312 2.533 2.74
EUROPE & TURKEY 1.550 1.498 1.565 1.615 1.584 1.65
BRAZIL 0.958 0.897 0.910 0.862 0.797 0.80
USA 0.849 0.718 0.762 0.773 0.778 0.81
CIS 0.577 0.545 0.581 0.614 0.602 0.60
OTHERS 2.621 2.357 2.335 2.528 2.557 2.68
EXPORTS
WORLD TOTAL 7.690 9.828 9.986 8.991 7.705 7.36
USA 3.130 2.526 2.836 2.293 2.449 2.23
INDIA 1.085 2.159 1.685 2.014 0.914 1.01
AUSTRALIA 0.545 1.010 1.305 1.037 0.521 0.54
BRAZIL 0.435 1.043 0.938 0.485 0.851 0.77
CFA ZONE 0.476 0.597 0.829 0.974 0.885 1.02
UZBEKISTAN 0.600 0.550 0.653 0.650 0.594 0.53
IMPORTS
WORLD TOTAL 7.749 9.784 9.606 8.670 7.605 7.36
CHINA 2.609 5.342 4.426 3.075 1.804 1.21
EAST ASIA 1.826 1.997 2.355 2.355 2.631 2.79
EUROPE & TURKEY 0.973 0.725 0.833 1.082 1.010 1.01
BANGLADESH 0.843 0.680 0.631 0.967 0.964 1.04
PAKISTAN 0.314 0.190 0.411 0.247 0.198 0.25
TRADE IMBALANCE 1/ 0.058 -0.044 -0.380 -0.321 -0.100 0.00
STOCKS ADJUSTMENT 2/ -0.041 0.018 0.001 0.000 0.000 0.00
ENDING STOCKS
WORLD TOTAL 10.222 15.258 18.038 20.111 22.024 20.81
CHINA 2.087 6.181 9.607 12.088 12.850 11.98
USA 0.566 0.729 0.903 0.651 0.980 0.85
ENDING STOCKS/MILL USE (%)
WORLD-LESS-CHINA 3/ 54 64 55 49 55 52
CHINA 4/ 22 72 116 161 171 164
COTLOOK A INDEX 5/ 164 100 88 91 71
ICAC SUPPLY AND DISTRIBUTION OF COTTON
December 9, 2015
POST EVENT REPORT

Developments in reactive dyes
TECHNICAL ARTICLE
Abstract
Reactive dyes are well known for their light and pale
shades. Several environmental problems are associated with re-
active dyeing such as higher alkalinity, colored effluent and large
amount of electrolytes. Various efforts had been done to solve this
problem such as - (a) modification of the dye to increase the fixa-
tion by enhancing the reactivity (Multifunctional reactive dyes-ho-
mobifuctional & hetro bifunctional reactive dyes). (b) Modification
of the dye to increase the substantives, so that electrolyte require-
ment is cut down - highly substantive or low salt reactive dyes. (c)
Modification of the cellulose substrate- cationisation of cellulosic
materials.
Key words- Reactive dyes, Fixation , Electrolyte, Bifunctional
1.Procian T dyes:
ICI introduced the procaine T-dyes, a range of liquid reactive
dyes, based on phosphoric acid reactive group. Fixation of these
dyes takes under acidic dyeing conditions in the presence of car-
bodiimide at about 2000C. Acid and neutral fixing reactive dyes are
important for polyester cotton blends and their consumption will
increase. Studies on the stability of the dye fiber bond of Procian
T dyes demonstrated that this class of reactive dyes have dye fiber
stabilities in the range as those of other major classes of reactive
dyes. However large quantities of fixative are necessary. The rate
of fixation agent to the dyes is of the order of 50:1 or more. Procian
T dyes do not hydrolyze and at the end of the dyeing process retain
their capacity for fixation. The disappointing fixation achieved un-
der even the best conditions recommended is thought to be due to
unfavorable competition from the carbodiimide side reaction. It is
ironic that the fixation of non hydrolysable reactive dyes should be
no better than that of regular reactive dyes due to the same basic
problem in the former case relating to the fixation agent and in the
latter to the dye itself. High fixation values can be obtained by us-
ing solvents and cyanamide at 1600C.
2. Reactive cationic dyes:
These dyeing properties of reactive cationic dyes on blended
fabrics. Fiber reactive polymethine cationic dyes containing N- chlo-
roacetyl group. After a long silence in this area, reactive cationic
dyes have been evaluated on wool and in the context of salt free
dyeing of cotton cellulose. In the recent years, in the context of de-
velopment of a salt free dyeing procedure for cellulose materials,
cationic dyes containing a reactive unit have been studied. The prin-
ciple behind this is that the cationic dyes do not need an electrolyte
during exhaustion of the dye as against the anionic dyes.
3. Cibacron C dyes,
Mainly produced for pad-batch and continuous dyes are
the bifunctional reactive dyes, having monofluorotriazine reactive
group linked to the vinyl sulphone group, by an aliphatic bridge
between the two groups. While Sum fix Supra bifunctional reac-
tive dyes are mainly for exhaust dyeing, the Cibacron C dyes are de-
signed mainly for pad-batch and continuous dyeing. Due to higher
cost and technological constraints to produce the required reactive
system, these dyes are not being developed in India.
3. Sumafix Supra dyes, marketed by Sumitomo of Japan, are
heterobifunctional reactive dyes having a vinyl sulphone and mon-
ochlorotriazine groups. These dyes known for their high degree of
exhaustion and fixation, good reproducibility and leveling proper-
ties. These are also temperature-insensitive between 500-600C.
The dyes are distinguished by medium substantively in primary ex-
haustion phase and high degree of exhaustion and fixation after
addition of alkali. These dyes have advantages owing to the vinyl
sulphone group, owing to the synergistic effect of the combination
of the vinyl sulphone group with a monoclorotriazine group. The
main advantages of these dyes are as under-
1- High degree of exhaustion and fixation
2- Good reproducibility
3- Good leveling properties
High fastness to perspiration, light, chlorinated water and per-
oxide washing etc.
One of the most characteristic dyeing properties of these dyes
is its temperature-insensitive dyeing behavior between 500 and
800C, as they show very little change in color yield between this
range of temperature. Due to this property, they display an excel-
lent practical performance when the temperature in the dye bath
is not completely uniform, particularly in winch dyeing machines.
The various application methods, fastness properties and ad-
vantages of these dyes have been described.
These dyes have become popular in USA, Europe, Japan and
many of the Asian countries except India. Due to high import duty,
it is virtually impossible to import these dyes but a few of the dye-
stuff manufacturers like Jaysynth, Atlas and Chemiequip have de-
velop and produced in India this type of bifunctional reactive dyes
having vinyl sulphone and monoclorotrizine groups.
However so far no manufacturer has been successful to intro-
duce these dyes in the Indian textile market. The main reasons for
this can be attributed as follows-
1.Higher color cost of these dyes to produce the same color
strength, compared to other reactive dyes. However many color
combinations shades are also economical when produced from
these dyes. Moreover the higher dye cost can well be compensated
by high fastness properties and good reproducibility.
2.Dyestuff manufacturers have no complete range of these
dyes, particularly brilliant blues, to produce a variety of combina-
tion shades normally required by the textile processor.
One of the important aspects from the manufacturers point
of view is that, though synthetically it is easy to introduce these
two
Mr. T. Malik, Mr. S Barhanpurkar
shri Vaishnav Institute of Technology Indore
Mr. S Rajput, Mr. A Bhargava,
Textile Technology Institute, Kanpur U.P.

JANUARY 2016 / 3rd Anniversary Issue

JANUARY 2016 / 3rd Anniversary Issue

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JANUARY 2016 / 3rd Anniversary Issue