The document discusses various methods of fabric construction including weaving, looms, basic weaves like plain, twill and satin. It describes jacquard looms and how they allow for complex patterns through the use of punch cards. Specific fabric types are explained such as damask, brocade, velvet and casement cloth. Nonwoven fabrics like ultrasuede, felt and vinyl are also covered. The document provides information on determining warp and weft, fabric grain, pricing and how fabrics are sold to aid in selecting and working with various woven and nonwoven materials.

1. Fabric Construction

2. Warp and weft

3. Egyptian

4. loom:
a frame or machine for interlacing at right angles two or more
sets of threads or yarns to form a cloth

13. Dobby loom

16. Stripe warp from the back of the
loom

17. Three basic weaves
• Plain
• Twill
• Satin

18. Twill

19. Twill Plaid

20. Satin Weave
Satin fabric

21. Herringbone: a variation of a twill
weave

22. Basket Weave: a variation of plain
weave

23. Ottoman or repp weave

24. Jacquard

25. Jacquard
• Joseph Jacquard invented in 1801, Lyon
France
• Device that simplifies the process of
manufacturing complex textile patterns.
• Each design has a set of punch cards
• First key punch system
• Binary system forerunner of computers

26. Lyon

28. Jacquard cards

29. Jacquard
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-zqT7tPmVAo&feature=related

30. Inspection

31. Damask
is a reversible, flat, fabric with a satin weave in both the pattern and the
ground.

32. Damask designs

33. Damask construction

36. Imberline
A damask fabric with various colored stripes in
the warp used in upholstery, drapery.

37. Brocatelle
Stiff fabric with high relief. Warp satin in the figure.

38. Brocatelle

40. Brocade is a supplementary weft technique, that is, the
ornamental brocading is produced by a supplementary, non-
structural, weft in addition to the standard weft that holds the
warp threads together.

42. Lisere
The design is created by supplementary warp threads brought
up on the face of the fabric, leaving loose yarns on the back.

43. Lisere face and back

44. Lampas
Can be confused with a brocade. Yarns that make the design are
also part of the structure of the fabric.

45. Misc Jacquard

46. Tapestry

47. Tapestry
• A firm, heavy, stiff,
jacquard fabric made
with a multi colored
warp

52. Matelasse/Pique
a double-cloth fabric woven to create a three-
dimensional design with a puckered or quilted look.

54. Jim Thompson

55. Donghia

56. Velvet

57. Face to face method for solid
colored velvet

58. a fabric with a thick, soft pile formed of loops of the
warp thread either cut at the outer end or left uncut.

60. Panne Velvet

62. Panne Velvet

64. Cut and uncut velvet

65. All cut velvet

68. Velvet facts
• Nap, pile lays down in one direction
• Pile can be interlaced in the form of a V or W
and V is superior because more compact.
• Wears from the back to the face
• Frieze, short, fine, tight loop
• Chenille and flocking mock velvet

69. Sheers, Casement, Lace, Madras

70. Sheers

73. Casement

74. Creation
Baumann

75. Leno (triaxial weave)
open weave used for casements, which achieves extra stability
by twisting the warp yarns around each other and inserting the
weft.

76. Cloth alternating leno and plain weave

77. Lace
A fine open fabric, typically one of cotton or silk, made
by looping, twisting, or knitting thread in patterns.

79. Madras
sheer fabric with a leno weave ground and a
supplementary yarn to create pattern.

80. Woven facts
• 54” wide on average but can range from 48” up. Window fabrics can be
108”
• Sold by the running yard. D&D code. Each wholesaler has a different
minimum size order.
• A piece or bolt of fabric averages 55 yards depending on the weight of the
fabric
• The repeat size and repeat configuration contributed to the amount of
waste.
• Work with your upholsterer to determine quantities and how you want
the pattern engineered on the furniture or window treatment.
• Thread count is the number of yarns per square inch. In other words the
number of warp thread per inch and weft threads per inch added up.

81. Bolts of fabric

82. Grain

83. Woven selvage

84. Railroaded

85. Determining Warp and Weft
• If labeled, label is usually in the warp direction
• Typically stripes run in the warp direction
• Typically more threads per inch in the warp
direction
• Typically fabric has less give when pulled in
the warp direction
• Typically novelty yarns are in the weft
direction

86. Determine back and face
• Printed and embroidery fabrics are a topical
treatment
• Face weaves are tighter, shorter floats
• Back weaves are looser, longer floats
• Design looks fuzzy on the back
• Often fabrics are warped face, more threads
per inch

87. Nonwovens
• Ultrasuede
• Leather
• Knits
• Felt
• Vinyl

88. Ultrasuede
• This is a trade name
• HP created for interiors market
• Made to look and feel like suede
• It is made by needle punching fibers into a felt
backing.
• Washable with soap and water and will not
crock, pill or fray.
• Like fabric 54” wide and sold by the yard

90. Fake Fur
a knitted fabric

93. Leather

94. leather

95. Leather facts
• Has grain
– Full grain is natural
– Top grain has undergone minor corrections
– Split leather in only the center of the hide without
markings

96. Hide
• Sold by the square foot

97. Felt

98. Vinyl

99. Joseph Noble

100. Review
• Weaving is the interlacing of yarns at right angles to each
other.
• Warp yarns run vertically through the loom and are held
under tension and systematically raised allowing the weft
yarn to be inserted horizontally.
• A loom is a frame or machine for interlacing at right angles
two or more sets of threads or yarns to form a cloth.
• Know the different ways to determine the warp and weft of a
fabric.
• Dobby looms weave simple fabrics and jacquard looms weave
large complex designs.
• What is a selvage?
• Know how to determine the front and back of a fabric.

101. • The type and size of the design repeat adds to the amount of fabrics
needed for a project.
• What is the grain of a fabric?
• A railroaded fabric is one in which the design is oriented sideways to save
yardage when upholstering.
• Know what thread count means.
• How is leather sold?
• Fabric pricing. 5/10 code verses retail.
• The most common fabric width is 54” and fabrics are sold by the running
yard.
• You use sheers, casements and madras on windows or beds to filter light,
create privacy and/or insulate a room.
• How does a leno weave differ from other weaves?
• Why is it important to determine the nap of a velvet before using it for
drapery or upholstery?
• What are nonwovens and name five examples that are used in interiors.