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Fiber and yarn
The document discusses the manufacturing process of textiles from fibers to yarns to fabrics. It covers natural fibers like silk, wool, cotton and linen as well as manufactured fibers such as rayon, nylon, acrylic and polyester. The characteristics, properties and uses of each fiber are described. Yarns can be spun or filament and characteristics like fineness, twist and texture affect properties. Fiber, yarn and fabric construction all contribute to a textile's appearance and performance.
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Fiber and yarn
- 1. The Process • ManufacturingProgression – Fiber to fabric – Fiber to yarn to fabric, carpeting, trimming • Fiber, yarn construction, fabric construction all contribute to the appearance and performance of a textile.
- 2. Fibers The basic rawmaterials used in textile production are fibers, either obtained from natural sources (e.g., wool) or produced from chemical substances (e.g., nylon and polyester).
- 3. How do youidentify fiber or fabric content? • Labels • Hand • Appearance • Burn test
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- 7. Spider Silk Fabricat the Museum of Natural History
- 8. Classification of Fibers •Natural or manufactured • General chemical type such as protein, etc • Generic names, such as cotton, used on product labels • Trade names, such as antron nylon, marketing purposes
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- 10. How we describefibers • Fiber length • Texture • Hand • Elasticity • Luster • Resiliency • Strength • Flammability • Resistance to sunlight
- 11. Natural Fibers Protein • Silk •Wool • Mohair • Horsehair Mineral Asbestos Glass Cellulosic • Cotton • Flax • Jute • Hemp • Bamboo • Sisal • Coir
- 12. Protein Fibers • Silk •Wool • Mohair • Horsehair
- 13. Silk Characteristics Source • Obtainedfrom cocoon of the silk worm Appearance • Translucent • Lustrous • Only natural filament fiber Physical properties • Strong, has the tensile strength of steel Yarn types • Tram, highest grade and most common. Filaments grouped and twist. • Dupioni, two cocoons become affixed • Raw, sericin not removed • Tussah, from wild uncultivated silk worm
- 14. Silk con’t Pro • Luxurious Con •Rots when exposed to unfiltered sunlight • Moths eat • Flat fabrics that do not hide dirt
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- 31. Wool Characterics Source • Fleeceof sheep Appearance • Crimp • Scales • Low light reflection Physical properties • Resiliency • Resistant to abrasion • Resistant to soiling • Inherently flame retardant Yarn types • Woolen • Worsted
- 32. Wool con’t Pro • Inherentlyflame retardant • Resistant to wrinkling, abrasion and soiling Con • Moth eat • Rough hand • Lacks luster
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- 41. Wool and theenvironment • Maintain the animal to maintain the fiber but animal has other uses such as lanolin and food. • Renewable resource. Can shear annually
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- 43. Mohair Characteristics Source • Angoragoat Appearance • Similar to wool but more lustrous Pro • more luxurious than wool Con • More expensive than wool
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- 48. Horsehair characteristics Source • Horsestails Appearance • Individual hairs • White (can be dyed) or black Physical properties • Extremely strong and abrasion resistant Yarn type • Individual hairs, cannot be spun into continuous yarn Pro • Strong, abrasion resistant and can be washed with soap and water Con • Narrow • Hard hand • Expensive and requires expert upholstering
- 52. Sources of PlantFibers Seed –cotton Stem –Linen, ramie, jute, hemp Leaf –Sisal, coir
- 53. Cotton Characteristics Source • Obtainedfrom cotton boll Appearance • ½ to 2” long Physical properties • Strong • Lacks resiliency • Cool hand • hydrophilic Yarn types • Combed • Carded • Mercerized (finish)
- 54. Cotton con’t Pro • Plentiful,inexpensive and the most widely used fiber Con • Environmental impact through use of pesticides and water. GM crops might benefit
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- 60. Bedding and tablelinens
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- 64. Linen characteristics Source • Obtainedfrom the stem of the flax plant Appearance • Long • irregular • Looks like bamboo when viewed under a microscope • Lustrous when finished (calendared) Physical properties • Strong • Lacks resiliency Yarn types • none
- 65. Linen con’t Pro • Crisphand • Texture • No lint Con • Wrinkles • Breaks like a twig
- 71. Additional Plant Fibers Sisaland Jute
- 72. Green Plant Fibers Bambooand Hemp
- 75. Plant fibers inwall coverings
- 76. Bast and LeafFibers and the environment • More environmentally friendly than cotton – Little or no pesticides and less water – Bamboo, jute and fast growing and highly- renewable
- 77. Manufactured Fibers Rayon andacetate • developed to replace parachute silk for WWI • Natural substance (cellulose) in a manufactured process Synthetics Poly, nylon, acrylic, olefin • Not possible until scientist could look into a fiber with a microscope to mimic the molecular structure. • Plastics invented from sludge, a byproduct of oil refinery
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- 80. Rayon or ViscoseCharacteristics Source • Chemically altered wood pulp Appearance • Translucent • Lustrous Physical properties • Strong • Lacks resiliency Yarn types • Filament • Spun Pro • Flexible • Soft hand • Luster Con • Weaker when wet
- 81. Synthetics Pros Durable Resistant to moths Resistantto mildew Hydrophobic Flexibility Less expensive Cons Plastic hand Static electricity Pilling Hydrophobic
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- 83. Acrylic Characteristics Source • Chemical Appearance •Soft • Light weight Physical properties • Not as strong as nylon or poly Yarn types • spun Pro • Mimics spun natural fiber yarns • Outdoor fabrics, solution dyed acrylic (Sunbrella is trade name) Con • Plastic hand • Not as resistant to abrasion as polyester and nylon
- 84. Nylon Characteristics Source • Chemical Appearance •flexible , engineered into different shapes and can be de-lustered Physical properties • Strong • Resistant to abrasion • Resilient Yarn types • Spun • Filament Pro • Resilience which makes it ideal for floor covering • Resists mildew and insects Con • Pills more than polyester • Static electricity
- 86. Olefin Characteristics Source • Chemical Appearance •flexible , engineered into different shapes Physical properties • Strong • Resilient Yarn types • Spun Pro • inexpensive • Bulky, light weight Con • Scratchy • Plastic hand • Not resistant to sunlight • Static electricity
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- 88. Polyester characteristics Source • Chemical Appearance •flexible , engineered into different shapes and can be de-lustered Physical properties • Strong • Resistant to abrasion • Resists pilling more than nylon • Highly resistant to sunlight Yarn types • Spun • Filament Pro • Resists mildew and insects • Trevira, trade name for flame retardant poly Con • Hydrophobic so difficult to clean • Static electricity
- 89. • Most widelyused manufactured fiber • Residential fabrics to save costs, commercial for performance • Non-yellowing window treatments such as sheers • Excellent resistance to sunlight • Green, Can be made from recycled plastic bottle Polyester
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- 92. Yarn Defined Any formof spun, twisted or extruded fibers, natural or manufactured, that can be used in weaving, knitting, or knotting.
- 93. Two main types spunfilament
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- 100. Two color pliedyarn
- 101. Characteristic of yarn •Fineness of yarn numerical identification. Different systems for different fibers. Synthetics denier. • Degree of twist per inch contributes to the strength and the hand. • Texture • Different spinning systems such as woolen/worsted, carded/combed
- 102. Novelty yarns • Slubyarn • Boucle • Chenille • dupioni
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- 106. Boucle yarn ina fabric
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- 113. Discuss • Manufacturing progression •How can you identify fibers in a fabric? • How important is the “hand” of a textile product? What effects the hand? • What do cotton and rayon have in common and how do they differ? • What qualities do all synthetic fibers have in common?
- 114. Discuss • What arethe challenges faced by the design profession in selecting and specifying interior textile products? • What are some of the fabric performance predictors that we have learned so far?
- 115. Review General Textiles •Definition textiles, they are made from fibers that are processed into yarn, then woven, knit, or nonwoven fabrics. • Three aspects that contribute to a textiles appearance and performance are fiber, yarn construction, fabric construction
- 116. Review Fiber • Thebasic raw materials used in textile production are fibers, either obtained from natural sources (e.g., wool) or produced from chemical substances (e.g., nylon and polyester). • Two main categories of fibers, natural and manufactured. • How can you identify fibers in a fabric? • Four classifications of fiber – Natural and manufactured – Chemical name – Generic name – Trade name • Characteristics of all of the fibers in the power point.
- 117. Review yarn • Yarn Anyform of spun, twisted or extruded fibers, natural or manufactured, that can be used in weaving, knitting, or knotting. • The difference in spun and filament yarns. Spun yarns have short fibers that have been twisted together into one continuous strand. Filament is extruded into one continuous strand. • A plied yarns are yarns made from twisting together two or more singles yarns. This is done to make a stronger more uniformed yarn. • The higher the twists per inch the stronger the yarn and the harder the hand.
Editor's Notes
- #28 Sari rug