This document provides information about weaving and woven fabrics. It defines weaving as a method of fabric production that interlaces two sets of yarns at right angles. It describes the basic components of woven fabrics as the warp yarns that run lengthwise and the weft or filling yarns that run perpendicular. It also explains various weaving patterns like plain weave, basket weave, twill weave, and satin weave as well as the characteristics of fabrics produced with each pattern. Finally, it provides examples of specific woven fabric types that use each weaving technique.

1. Course- BDFT/BFT
Semester- II
Subject-Textile Manufacturing Techniques
Unit- I
Topic- Weaving & Woven Fabric

2. Weaving
 Weaving is a method of fabric production in
which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are
interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or
cloth.

3.  Process Flow Chart of Textile
Manufacturing
Spinning
↓
Weaving
↓
Dyeing +Printing+ Finishing
↓
Garments Manufacturing

4. Woven Fabric
• Woven fabrics are composed of two sets of yarns,
the warp and the weft.
• Cloth is created by weaving the warp and the weft
over and under one another. The manner in which
the warp and weft are woven over and under one
another determines the weave of the fabric.

5. woven fabrics
made with two or more sets of yarns interlaced at
right angles
warp yarns—yarns in lengthwise direction (ends)
filling yarns—yarns in crosswise direction (weft)

6. common characteristics
• many different interlacing patterns give interest
and texture to fabric
• yarns can be raveled from adjacent sides
• fabrics have grain
• fabrics are relatively stable, with little stretch in
warp or filling

7. Warp & Weft
 The warp yarns run the
length of the fabric.
 The weft yarns, also called
the fill, run perpendicular
to the warp yarns
Image-1

8. Image-2

9. Image-3

10. characteristics of woven fabrics
grain—geometry or position of warp yarns relative to
filling yarns
•on-grain fabric has lengthwise grain parallel to warp
yarns & crosswise grain parallel to filling yarns
•off-grain fabrics create problems in production & use
—do not drape properly or hang evenly and printed
designs are not straight

11. Image-4

12. characteristics of woven fabrics
fabric count—
•number of warp and filling yarns per square inch
•indication of quality—higher count, better quality
balance—
•ratio of warp yarns to filling yarns in fabric
•balanced fabric 1:1
selvage—
•lengthwise self-edge of a fabric
•formed differently on different looms

13. characteristics of woven fabrics
fabric width—
•loom determines fabric width
•Hand woven—narrow (27-36 inches)
•commercial—exceed 60 inches
•consumer market—45-60 inches or 54-60
fabric weight
•describes how much a given area or length of fabric
weighs

14. naming & diagramming woven fabrics
fabric names are based on:
•fabric structure
•fabric weight
•yarn type
•yarn balance
•finishes

15. Image-5

16. 1. plain weave
•simplest of the three basic weaves
•formed by yarns at right angles passing alternately
over and under each other
•least expensive weave to produce
•no technical face or back unless printed
general characteristics:
•tend to wrinkle easily
•less absorbent than other weaves
•raveling less of a problem
•yarn type greatly influences
these characteristics
CREATE A PLAIN WEAVE

17. balanced plain weave
•simplest plain weave
•warp & filling yarns are same size & same distance
apart
•wider range of end uses than fabrics of any other
weave
•most widely used type of woven fabric
•can be made in any weight

18. Example of Plain Weave
 lightweight sheer—georgette, chiffon, voile, organdy, organza
 lightweight opaque—lawn, batiste, China silk, challis
 medium-weight—percale (calico, chintz, cretonne, polished
cotton, glazed chintz) muslin, flannelette, outing flannel,
gingham, chambray, madras, pongee, honan, ripstop nylon,
ripstop taffeta, true crepe
 heavyweight—weaver’s cloth, homespun, crash, butcher cloth,
burlap, hessian, osnaburg, flannel, tweed

19. unbalanced plain weave
•significantly more yarns in one direction than the
other
•creates rib—ridges of varying size depending upon
number & size of yarns

20. 2. basket weave
•made with two or more adjacent warps and two or more
fillings
•interlacing pattern similar to plain—two or more yarns follow
same parallel path
•most common are 2x2 or 4x4
•variations include 2x1 and 2x3
fabrics that have a basket weave:
• dimity
• oxford cloth
• sailcloth
• duck
• canvas
• hopsacking
• monk’s cloth

21. 3. twill weave
•each warp or filling yarn floats across two or more filling or
warp yarns with a progression of inter lacings by one to the
right or the left
•forms a distinct diagonal line or wale
•can be made on a simple loom
•have technical face & back—face has most pronounced wale
•softer, more pliable & recover
better from wrinkles

22. even-sided twill weave
•expose an equal amount of warp and filling yarn on
each side of fabric
•reversible
•even-sided twill weave fabrics:
• foulard or surah
• serge
• twill flannel
• sharkskin
• herringbone

23. warp-faced twill weave
•have predominance of warp yarns on face
•stronger & more resistant to abrasion & piling
•warp-faced twill weave fabrics:
• lining twill
• denim
• jean
• drill
• covert
• chino
• gabardine
• cavalry twill
• fancy twill

24. 4. satin weave
•each warp floats over four filling yarns and interlaces with the
5th
filling yarn with a progression of inter lacings by two to the
right or the left
•can be produced on simple loom
•lustrous because of long floats on surface
•yarns can be packed very closely together
•face & back look significantly different
•high count gives strength, durability, body, firmness, wind
repellency
CREATE A SATIN WEAVE

25. satin weave
satin weave fabrics—
•satin—warp faced (warp floats cover surface),
filament yarns
•crepe-back satin—crepe yarns give softness & drape
ability
•sateen—spun yarns, come in filling sateen & warp
sateen

26. References
1. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Warp_and_woo
f#mediaviewer/File:Warp_and_weft.jpg
2. http://www.pilikula.com/handloom.html
3. http://www.quiltviews.com/don
%E2%80%99t-let-your-selvage-languish
4. http://www.sewnews.com/blogs/sewing/pag
e/2/
5. http://www.gutenberg.org/files/21534/21534
-h/21534-h.htm

27. Thank you