VII Encuentro de Empresarios de la Moda y Marcas de Prestigio
       Apuntar al crecimiento: innovación y creatividad




...
agenda
history of innovation in the fashion industry

current technological innovations

the promise of technology crossin...
fashion has
always been more
about
        art than strategy

        creativity than innovation

        connections than...
history of fashion
Tennis star Rene Lacoste,                    Cristóbal Balenciaga                     Yves St. Laurent ...
history of fashion
                                                                            Benetton International Hold...
history of fashion


1993   1995   1997   2000   2003   2005
history of fashion




                  Human Survival
   Redefinition
where will innovation
be coming from? and
how disruptive will
they be?                                              smart ...
what needs to happen?

Wearable                                    Clothes that are made
                                 ...
it’s where Tom Ford
meets Steve Jobs

              +
current research directions

Non-emissive   Soft          Intimate       Memory Rich
Display        Computation   Technolo...
making smart textiles real

•   Progress of ‘smart’ textiles from concept to practical applications
    will require the d...
what are smart textiles
Embedded Computing Textiles

Moisture Management Textiles

Electrical Conductivity Textiles
      ...
where Karl Lagerfeld
meets Bill Gates

          +
smart fashion – the
concept of second skin
Modern science gradually encroached upon the world of clothing by
combining wit...
fashion meets technology - a new
way to sensing the world
It’s time to radically rethink the concept of
what an intelligen...
wearable technology
in the future
applications
                                     Technology
               Technology is a
                              ...
convergence
                                    Advanced
                                    Functionalities



Personal
 ...
the next killer apps?
                                    Military and Law
Personal           Personal                    ...
the next killer apps?
Medical and
Health




                                                           real time personal...
the next killer apps?
Extreme
Sports




                                                           performance           ...
the next killer apps?
Military and Law
Enforcement




                                            the helmet is the     f...
the next killer apps?
Personal
Entertainment
and
Communications




                                        a fabric keybo...
the next killer apps?
Personal                                                Extreme
Expression                          ...
cool ideas
digital fabric
                               As with all clothes, smart garment
                              ...
cool ideas
invisible speakers
          To hear the audio, just press fingertips to
          forehead and you can hear th...
cool ideas
self-ironing dress
        Need to find an iron before
        your big cocktail party? Here
        is a dress...
cool ideas
smart crystals
          Swarovski SMS chandelier - this high-
          tech chandelier that accepts SMS
     ...
cool ideas
biometric handbag
        Design graduate Louise Wilson, frustrated having
        her own handbag pick pockete...
cool facts
smart fashion
According to the Gartner Group, 60 % of the
population in developed countries are likely to own a...
new functionalities
fashion as ......
•    … as a user interface
•    … as sensors
•    … as products
•    ... as filters
...
social awareness in
wearable computing
Improve social interaction via real-time feedback (today)
   “Stop hitting on her!”...
vision for the future
•   Socially perceptive wearable devices as fashion accessories
•    Mass adoption of smart clothing...
so much for the future…..


back to the fashion and
luxury good industry today
value drivers of the fashion and
luxury goods industry today

•   Portfolio management – strategic focus

•   Emerging mar...
value drivers of the fashion and
luxury goods industry today
Portfolio Management

                                       ...
value drivers of the fashion and
luxury goods industry today
Emerging Markets
                   •   A study by Merrill Ly...
value drivers of the fashion and
luxury goods industry today
Channel Optimization


        Sales per SQM 2003/2004
60000
...
value drivers of the fashion and
luxury goods industry today

•   Channel optimization
                                   ...
takeaways
Technology will eventually transform the
fashion and luxury goods industry – it will solve
many of today’s indus...
takeaways
The role of wearable technology - how it can be
deployed to create market ready products. There
is an awareness ...
takeaways
Broader issues – what is needed to explore in
relation to wearable technology including but not
restricted to: a...
takeaways
What is going to change – future fashion will be
defined more by function not only how they look
and the way how...
Danke
Gracias
Merci                                Idris Mootee




Thank you
Grazie
Arigatou-Gozaimasita

               ...
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Fashion and Innovation Keynote - Madras

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  1. 1. VII Encuentro de Empresarios de la Moda y Marcas de Prestigio Apuntar al crecimiento: innovación y creatividad 2005 2008 2011 2014 2107 2020 Customer Experience Innovation in the Fashion and Luxury Goods Industry Closing Keynote Presentation – Madrid May 25, 2005 Idris Mootee
  2. 2. agenda history of innovation in the fashion industry current technological innovations the promise of technology crossing over with fashion emerging technologies and applications challenges of the fashion and luxury goods industry today broader issues in smart fashion
  3. 3. fashion has always been more about art than strategy creativity than innovation connections than governance
  4. 4. history of fashion Tennis star Rene Lacoste, Cristóbal Balenciaga Yves St. Laurent opens known as quot;le Crocodile,quot; introduces quot;semi-fitquot; fashion house; often manufactures a versatile new dresses with soft, round uses ethnic inspirations; tennis shirt. It features an shoulders; is the classic remains most classic embroidered crocodile, believed designer of the 1950s modern designer, heir to to be the first of a designer logo Chanel, Balenciagna to appear on a garment. 1930 1947 1954 1960 1962 1965 Influenced by rock Christian Dior Pierre Cardin music, quot;Modquot; scene reestablishes Paris as becomes first makes London major fashion center; revives designer to fashion center with fun haute couture; replaces license his name and revolutionary wartime austerity with for various clothes: bell bottoms, the glamour of the quot;New products; is first psychedelic prints, wild Lookquot; with tight waist, to create ready- colors, dresses made stiff petticoats, billowing to-wear lines of vinyl skirts
  5. 5. history of fashion Benetton International Holding moves its' headquarters in Luxembourg, and begin its' Known as Halston, Roy Claude Montana founds strategy in internationalization. Halston Frowick dominates couture house; Toscani pushes its creative limits, 1970s with pantsuits, specializes in leather an approach that cemented its sweater sets, form-fitting distinctive positioning dresses, knit wear 1970 1974 1979 1980 1985 1990 Ralph Lauren founded the Polo label in Alexander McQueen Japanese quot;schoolquot; of 1967 with the quote “A tie was the way emerges as daring new designers, including a man expressed himself. I believed designer; features cozy, Issey Miyake, Kenzo, that men were ready for something new romantic designs; favors Rei Kawakubo, Hanae and different. They didn’t want to look highly theatrical fashion Mori, enjoy major as if they worked for IBM.” shows, models parade in couture success rings of fire. Giorgio Armani Donna Karan creates men's wear launches line of line; popularizes versatile, casual knits, Italian tailoring favors black.
  6. 6. history of fashion 1993 1995 1997 2000 2003 2005
  7. 7. history of fashion Human Survival Redefinition
  8. 8. where will innovation be coming from? and how disruptive will they be? smart fashion soft computing techno moda from geek to chic reactive fashion wearable technology
  9. 9. what needs to happen? Wearable Clothes that are made from smart textiles technology is to (chemical, electronic or change the whole nanotech) with the Smart idea of how a Wearable capability to react on computer should be different solicitations such Fashion Technology as thermal, chemical, used. A computing biological or electron- device can simply magnetic Clothes that be worn, much as have certain advanced eyeglasses or functionalities fashion, and – Contained certain protection properties interact with the – Actively reacting to user based on the the external context of the environment or situation. (MIT) user’s conditions – Ability to deliver or exchange information about the users
  10. 10. it’s where Tom Ford meets Steve Jobs +
  11. 11. current research directions Non-emissive Soft Intimate Memory Rich Display Computation Technologies Fashion
  12. 12. making smart textiles real • Progress of ‘smart’ textiles from concept to practical applications will require the development of a range of new technologies. The science underlying these technologies still needs to be developed • It requires flexible electronics, which includes conducting polymers and the incorporation of sensors into textiles either directly into the fibres or by conventional textile processes such as knitting
  13. 13. what are smart textiles Embedded Computing Textiles Moisture Management Textiles Electrical Conductivity Textiles Innovation Drivers Thermal Management Textiles Nano Antibacterial Textiles Nano IR Absorbent Textiles Nano UV Protective Textiles
  14. 14. where Karl Lagerfeld meets Bill Gates +
  15. 15. smart fashion – the concept of second skin Modern science gradually encroached upon the world of clothing by combining with the surfaces that protect and personalize our bodies. Personal electronic gadgets such as cell phones and iPods, have become new forms of adornment, connecting our inner world with our surroundings and profoundly altering our relationship with the world. These powerful devices have contributed to a process of layering our personal boundaries with multiple strata of information and sensation. The concept of 'smart 'clothes is to move towards a subtler and more complex integration of technological elements – the concept of the quot;second skinquot; .
  16. 16. fashion meets technology - a new way to sensing the world It’s time to radically rethink the concept of what an intelligent lifestyle actually means. We all live it in one sense or another. Smart fashion offers exquisite design and technical solutions integrated with everyday objects. My Body My Fashion My Reachable Objects My Living Environment
  17. 17. wearable technology in the future
  18. 18. applications Technology Technology is a Aesthetic big show off factor Functionality Social and Networkings Performance Technology should become invisible at this point Embedded Technology
  19. 19. convergence Advanced Functionalities Personal Fashion Communications and Expressions Sports Technology Advanced Performance
  20. 20. the next killer apps? Military and Law Personal Personal Extreme Medical and Enforcement Expression Entertainment Sports Health and Communications Advanced Style Elements Bio Feedback Connectivity Protection Protection Mood Heart Rate Control Body Airflow monitoring Sexual Communication Movement Improvement Preferences Respiratory Monitoring and Availability Emergency Monitoring Smart Alert Intimate Camouflage Technology Auto SOS Response
  21. 21. the next killer apps? Medical and Health real time personal smart clothes a wearable care systems together with cost- motherboard that extend beyond effective telematics can effectively serving the can fundamentally monitor vitals such seniors e.g. change the interface as heart rate, Lifebelt (wearable between patients respiration rate, device for health and the health care ECG and body monitoring during provider s temperature. pregnancy)
  22. 22. the next killer apps? Extreme Sports performance imagine when every motorbike jacket sports jacket that fabric such as TK1 player vitals, stress with an internal offers advanced irony and Kevlar and skills level can heating mechanism protection from and fabric claims to be all be monitored, that can monitor and draw sweats away knife and bomb stored and replayed regulate body from the skin and proof that helps through a large temperatures .When trap air for warmth in minimize injuries display. Real Xbox unplug, the batteries the cold LIVE! are charged by the bike's engine
  23. 23. the next killer apps? Military and Law Enforcement the helmet is the form-fitting suit liquid body armor, massive sensors hub of the with the ability to STF is made of inside helmet give uniform, where “all blend into any equal parts the soldier three- of the action environment and polyethylene glycol dimensional audio- happens,” a tiny thermal sensors – an inert, non-toxic logical hearing and video camera in weaved into the thickening agent the ability to amplify front provides 360 fabric to control used in a variety of specific sounds. situational temperature common products awareness.
  24. 24. the next killer apps? Personal Entertainment and Communications a fabric keyboard on solar-powered display technology a fabric keyboard on a jacket or T-short panel equipped comes from optical a jacket or T-short that interfaces with jacket that keeps fiber woven into that interfaces with your mobile phone your iPod or just standard textiles your mobile phone and PDAs to send about anything else which users can and PDAs to send e-mail and send - charged-up all the download or create SMS or act as time by a hidden and display their e-mail and send remote control battery own design SMS or act as remote control
  25. 25. the next killer apps? Personal Extreme Expression Sports Plastic Optical Fiber a prototype dress a prototype dress the Luminescent consists of an inner that periodically has panels that Raincoat acrylic plastic core rearrange their periodically juxtaposes coated with cladding illuminated electricity and rearrange their of fluorinated pattern according water in a raincoat illuminated pattern polymer. Light to the noise level that. illuminates passes through the to express the time of the based on patterns length of the fiber in in an encoded form environment of rain a zigzag path – a personal code
  26. 26. cool ideas digital fabric As with all clothes, smart garment starts with the proper thread. Cotton, polyester or rayon don't have the needed properties to carry the electrical current needed for digital clothing. However, metallic yarns aren't new to the clothing industry. Silk organza is ideal for computerized clothing because it is made with two fibers that make it conducive to electricity. Photo courtesy MIT Media Lab Time-to-market: 8-12 months
  27. 27. cool ideas invisible speakers To hear the audio, just press fingertips to forehead and you can hear the sound without the use of ears. The glove is outfitted with quot;bone transducersquot; which translate sound into vibration patterns which resonate through bone. No sound at all is heard by anyone but the participant at any time. Use it to listen to music or answer phone calls. Time-to-market: 12-18 months
  28. 28. cool ideas self-ironing dress Need to find an iron before your big cocktail party? Here is a dress that is woven with titanium that react to rise in temperature and literally press itself. It will hold its form when bunched up, and flatten out when hit with a blast of hot air. Just expose the dress to a hair dryer or a warm breeze, and the ironing will be done. Time-to-market: 18-24 months
  29. 29. cool ideas smart crystals Swarovski SMS chandelier - this high- tech chandelier that accepts SMS messages from your cell phone and displays them on quot;crystal strands like a luxurious ticker tapequot;. Nadja Swarovski compares the collaboration on this project to the relationships her grandfather once had with fashion designers like Christian Dior and Coco Chanel. Time-to-market: Don’t know
  30. 30. cool ideas biometric handbag Design graduate Louise Wilson, frustrated having her own handbag pick pocketed, used biometrics technology to give handbags the type of security you would expect to surround the Crown Jewels. This anti-theft handbag works through a rechargeable battery-powered biometric reader device, which stores fingerprint details of the quot;registered owner.“ The device, which fits inside the lining of a handbag, won't unlock the bag until a fingerprint that it recognizes is touched over a scanner. Once a match has been made, a sensor flashes and bag opens. Time-to-market: 6-9 months
  31. 31. cool facts smart fashion According to the Gartner Group, 60 % of the population in developed countries are likely to own a communicating garment by 2010, so don't be too surprised if in a matter of years, the mobile phone logo craze is dead as a dodo while everyone will be downloading the latest graphics for their always- What are you online jacket. downloading to your jacket today?
  32. 32. new functionalities fashion as ...... • … as a user interface • … as sensors • … as products • ... as filters • ….as personal assistant • …as memory storage device that extend into…….
  33. 33. social awareness in wearable computing Improve social interaction via real-time feedback (today) “Stop hitting on her!” Propagate social context for a distance-separated group (not-too-distant future) “Its Friday night, lets see which one of my friends on my network” Mathematically model human behavior (distant future) Issac Asimov’s vision of Psychohistory. Made possible with pervasive, enabling hardware capabilities and machine-learning algorithms
  34. 34. vision for the future • Socially perceptive wearable devices as fashion accessories • Mass adoption of smart clothing that understand the users group context and are capable of giving feedback or annotation • Towards socially intelligent wearable networks in many different forms • Extending social intelligence by adding a dimension of social network information – ‘plugging in’ people into relevant events (sports etc.) • Extensive work to be done on applying mathematical modeling and machine-learning techniques and making them accurate and robust • Consideration of relevant issues like privacy, trust and sharing of contextual information, is your jacket getting too ‘smart’?
  35. 35. so much for the future….. back to the fashion and luxury good industry today
  36. 36. value drivers of the fashion and luxury goods industry today • Portfolio management – strategic focus • Emerging markets – land grabs • Channel optimization – retail transformation • Dealing with counterfeit – technological solution • Push advanced functionality – technological innovation • Technology-enabled creativity – design innovation
  37. 37. value drivers of the fashion and luxury goods industry today Portfolio Management • Portfolio management – strategic focus LVMH Brands EBIT (2004) vs. diversification Euro (m) Sales EBIT EBIT margin • Star performers usually contribute average 42% of total profits LV 3056 1301 45% • It is rare for any holding company to have Fendi 211 -30 -14% more than one star Donna Karan 265 0 0% • Gucci Group (PPR) 8 out of the 10 Other 830 -32 -4% brands were losing money in 2004
  38. 38. value drivers of the fashion and luxury goods industry today Emerging Markets • A study by Merrill Lynch has shown that China and Japan will dominate more than half of the luxury fashion market in 10 years' time. Thereby the two Far East superpowers will surpass Europe and the US. • Merrill Lynch revealed that China currently has an 11% stake in the EUR82 billion luxury fashion market. By the time 2014 rolls around this market will have grown to EUR133 billion, and China will have a 30% stake in it. This will leave Japan in second place with 21%, with Europe and the US following in third and fourth place with 20% and 17%.
  39. 39. value drivers of the fashion and luxury goods industry today Channel Optimization Sales per SQM 2003/2004 60000 50000 • Channel optimization – retail transformation 40000 • Transform a franchise to retail makes 30000 economic sense since it allows capturing 20000 additional gross profit 10000 • Technology allows the creation of virtual Euro LV Hermes Dior Gucci Others customer experience and new channel
  40. 40. value drivers of the fashion and luxury goods industry today • Channel optimization Business Solution will come from • Dealing with counterfeit Creativity, • Push advanced functionality Technological Innovation • Technology-enabled creativity
  41. 41. takeaways Technology will eventually transform the fashion and luxury goods industry – it will solve many of today’s industry's challenges including channel economics, counterfeit while advanced functionalities will drive ‘growth’ and create new product categories.
  42. 42. takeaways The role of wearable technology - how it can be deployed to create market ready products. There is an awareness that our understanding of interaction models is lacking when it comes to 'wearable. How a 'wearer' uses fashion and how the surrounding environment and infrastructure can be harnessed is a subject that needs to be explored. That’s Customer Experience Innovation!
  43. 43. takeaways Broader issues – what is needed to explore in relation to wearable technology including but not restricted to: aesthetics and design, function, creativity versus market forces; the desires, needs and realities of wearable technologies; technology and culture; simplicity and sustainability; design for wearability; wearable as ‘theatre’ and wearable as emotional ‘tools’. That’s Customer Experience Innovation!
  44. 44. takeaways What is going to change – future fashion will be defined more by function not only how they look and the way how fashion is “experienced” will gradually change. Certain pieces of the garment will support the “server” of the clothes and the Internet will play a key channel for sales. Apparel manufacturing will become modular much the PC business. The designers can still design clothes without understanding the technology. That’s Customer Experience Innovation!
  45. 45. Danke Gracias Merci Idris Mootee Thank you Grazie Arigatou-Gozaimasita www.blastradius.com www.highintensitymarketing.com

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