Work study

Production Management for the
Clothing Industry
by
Nilanthi Gamage BSc.
Brandix College of Clothing Technology

BRANDIX COLLEGE OF CLOTHING TECHNOLOGY
WHAT IS WORK MEASUREMENT
This is a process involved in issuing standard time that
is carried out under ,
.
Define level of performance .
Qualified worker ,
Specific job ,
Specific conditions ,

STANDARD MINUTE VALUE (SMV)
Is a unit of time allowed to carry out a given activity
at a defined level of performance.
The standard time , therefore, is the total time in
which an operation should be completed at
standard performance ( i.e. BSI 100).
This time will include: the work content and
allowance such as contingency allowances for delay,
relaxation allowances for personal need and basic
fatigue and machine attention allowances for
operation of machinery.

OBJECTIVES OF WORK MEASUREMENT
 To provide information for standard costing and
budgetary control.
 To check machine utilization.
 To set output targets based on performances.
 To compare alternative method.
 To form a basis for incentive schemes.

 To provide information for production planning and
control.
 To determine training requirements.
 To provide information for the recruitment of labour.

WORK MEASUREMENT TECHNIQUES
The following techniques are used in the recording of
an operation or process for work measurement
purposes.
Stop watch timing (Time study)
Predetermined Motion Time
Systems (PMTS)
General Sewing Data (GSD)
Video recording / Filming
Activity sampling

WHAT IS TIME STUDY
Time study is a work measurement technique for
recording the time of performing a certain specific job
or its elements carried out under specific condition
and for analysing the data so as to obtain the time
necessary for an operator to carry out at a defined
rate of performance.
Time study is a method of direct observation. A
trained observer watches the job and records data as
the job is being performed over a number of cycles.

TIME STUDY EQUIPMENT
The stop watch - in general, two types of watches are
used for time study.
Fly back Continuous
These watches may be used for any of the following
time scales
Seconds
Decimal minutes
Decimal hours

RATING
 Rating is a technique used to assess the speed &
effectiveness of an operator performing an activity or
group of activities.
 The rating of an operation is carried out by a
“trained” observer who is experienced in assessing
the “effectiveness” of an operator.

May take into account
Speed of movement
Effort
Effectiveness
Dexterity

HOW ACCURATE IS RATING
Rating is subjective and relies on the skill of the
observer carrying out the rating exercise and the
observer’s concept of the rate of working relative to a
standard of 100%.

ELEMENT
An element is a distinct part of a specified job
selected for convenience of observation,
Measurement and analysis.

BREAKING DOWN THE JOB INTO
ELEMENTS
 Elements should be easily identified, with definite beginnings and
endings so that, once established, they can be repeatedly recognized.
The point at which one element ends and another begins is called
break point. Breakpoints must be decided by the work study officer
when he divides the work cycle into elements.
All breakpoints can be recognized by a sound or by a change of
direction of a hand or arm.
 Elements should be as short as can be conveniently timed by a trained
observer, but should not be less than 0.10 minutes and more than 0.50
minutes.
 Manual elements should be separated from machine elements for
future use as synthetic data.
 Short elements should be next to long elements.

S tandard
M inute
V alue
SMV = Basic Time + Allowances
SMV = B.T + Allowances

BASIC TIME
The basic time for the operation is found by applying
concept of rating to relate the observed to that of a
standard place of working.

CALCULATED AS FOLLOWS
Standard Rating = 100 (BSI)
= A constant )

Rating 80 100 125 130
Observed
Time
0.25 0.20 0.16 0.15
Basic Time
= 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20
e.g.1

Rating
50
75 100 125
Observed
Time
1.2 0.8 0.6 0.5
Basic Time
= 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6
e.g. 2

TYPES OF ALLOWANCES
 Relaxation Allowances
 Personal needs
 Basic fatigue
Contingency Allowances
Machine attention allowances

RELAXATION ALLOWANCES
PERSONAL NEEDS
This allowance provides for the necessity to leave the
workplace to attend to personal needs such as
washing, going to the lavatory or fetching a drink.
Common figures are from 5 to 7 per cent of basic
time.

BASIC FATIGUE
This allowance, always a constant, is given to take
account of the energy expended while carrying
out work and to alleviate monotony.
A common figure is 4 percent of basic time.
Relaxation for sitting jobs 7.5%
Relaxation for standing jobs 9.5%

CONTINGENCY ALLOWANCES
A contingency allowance is a small allowance of time
which may be included in a standard time to meet
legitimate and expected items of work or delays, the
precise measurement of which is uneconomical
because of their infrequent or irregular occurrence.
Contingency 2%

MACHINE DELAY ALLOWANCES
These are applied to the total basic times for those
elements which are concerned with the operation of
machinery.
Common used as follows
Single needle Lockstitch 9%
Twin needle Lockstitch 14%
Double Needle Chainstitch 10%

Three thread overlock 7%
Four thread overlock 9%
Five thread overlock 11%
Multi Needle 10.5%
Other 5%

P re
D etermined
M otion PMTS
T ime
S ystems

PMTS
PMTS being a methods analysis technique whereby
time standards are produced as a by - product of
engineered or observed working methods.

OR IN OTHER WORDS,
Predetermined motion Time System is a work
measurement technique where by times established
for basic human motions (classified according to the
nature of the motion and the conditions under which
it is made) are used to build up the times for a job at
a defined level of performance.

WORK MEASUREMENT
The technique of work measurement PMTS
Direct work measurement Indirect work measurement
Requires observation Can use visualisation
Time study Synthetic times
possible stop watch error use coded data from time
studies
subjectivity of rating derived from elements

ADVANTAGES OVER STOP WATCH TIME
STUDY
 Can be used before production starts.
 Eliminate the need for a stop watch.
 Eliminate the need for rating.
 Realistic time standards-even with relatively
inexperienced operators.
 Permit measurement of element of work which are
too short with the stop watch.
 Possible to study and evaluate a number of different
methods without involving an operator.

DISADVANTAGES
 The analyst must be familiar with the methods of
garment construction.
 Cost of the system.

MTM - METHOD TIME MEASUREMENT
Is a generic term for a family of pre-determined
motion time systems.
MTM developed in 1946 and data published based on
film analysis of many 1000’s of industrial operations,
performance rated by teams of observers

MTM - 1
 MTM 1 was developed in 1948.
 The MTM - 1 data card contains over 350 values,
many of which are below 7 TMU’S.
 TMU - TIME MEASUREMENT UNIT
100000 TMU = 1 Hour
1667 TMU = 1 Minute
28 TMU = 1 Second

PRINCIPLE MOTIONS
Reach
Grasp
Release
Move
Position

MTM - 2
 MTM 2 was developed in 1965.
 It contains 39 values.
 Principle Motion
Reach
Grasp Get
Release
Move
Position Put

PMTS DATA LEVELS : BASIC MOTIONS
1st level
(MTM1)
2nd level
(MTM2)
3rd level
(MTM3)
Higher level
Handling
GET
Release
Reach
Grasp
PUT
Move
position
Combinati
ons give
sample &
complex
elements.

GSD
GENERAL SEWING DATA
GSD is a technique for methods analysis and the setting
of time standards for needle trade work.

ACTIVITY SAMPLING
Activity sampling is a method of finding the
percentage of the productive time and idle time of
the machines in a specific production area.

SUITABLE APPLICATIONS
 To observe several employees using few observers
 To assess the proportion of time spent on particular
activity
 To assess the proportion of idle, ineffective or waiting
time
 To assess machine breakdown time
 To observe the situation over a long period, which would
be uneconomical with continuos observation

Date: 10/02/99 Observer:XY Study No: Pilot Study
Time: 10:50 Am. Line: 02
Number of Total Percentage
Observations: 25
Machine running IIII 5 5/25*100 = 20
MachineObtain part IIII I 6 6/25*100 = 24
idleing Folding part I 1 1/25*100 = 4
Align part II 2 2/25*100 = 8
Match to M/C foot II 2 2/25*100 = 8
Cut thread II 2 2/25*100 = 8
Bundle handling I 1 1/25*100 = 4
Out of work place
Idling I 1 1/25*100 = 4
Talking II 2 2/25*100 = 8
Waiting for work I 1 1/25*100 = 4
M/C breakdown II 2 2/25*100 = 8
Others 0 0

FINDING OF THE STUDY
Activity No. of observations percentage
Sewing 1024 16%
Parts handling 2944 46%
Bundle handling 320 5%
Out of workplace 256 4%
Idling and talking 512 8%
Waiting for work 640 10%
M/c breakdown 384 6%
Others
Total productive time
Total non productive time
320
6400
4288
2112
5%
67%
33%

FINDINGS OF THE STUDY
If there are 600 machine operators are working at 8
hours, then total non productive time per day
600 X 8 X 60 X = 95040 minutes.
100
33

FINDINGS OF THE STUDY
If you can reduce the non productive time by 10%
reducing the waiting time, idling and talking and
machine breakdown time,
then you can save = 600 X 8 X 60 X
= 28800 minutes
If the average SMV of a garment is 20 minutes
Then you can produce extra =
=1440 pcs per day.
100
10
20
28800

PRODUCTION
AND
EFFICIENCY CALCULATIONS

PRODUCTION CALCULATIONS
TARGET
(Individual)
e .g . - 1
SMV of the operation = 0.50
Target
= 120 PCS
If she/he does another operation with SMV of 0.35
Then her/his
target
= 71 pcs from each operation

LINE TARGET
LINE TARGET =
Actual Minutes = No. of M/c Operators X work hrs.X
60 X Efficiency X Present%

LINE TARGET
e.g.
No. of operators = 54
Working hours = 9.50
Efficiency = 85%
Absenteeism rate = 5%
Total M/c SMV = 28.50
LINE TARGET
=
= 872 gmts. 28.50
0.95X0.85X60X9.50X54

EFFICIENCY & PERFORMANCE
CALCULATIONS
EFFICIENCY
(Of Individual)
Earned Minutes = No. of produced pieces x
SMV of that activity
Available Minutes = Work Minutes

INDIVIDUAL EFFICIENCY
e.g
An operator worked for 8 hours on an activity of
having a SMV of 0.55. She produced 682 pieces of
that activity. What was her efficiency?
Efficiency
= 78.15 %

INDIVIDUAL EFFICIENCY
e.g.
An operator worked for 9 hours on activity of having
SMVs of 1.21 & 0.80. She produced 195 & 250 of
those activities respectively. What was her efficiency?
Efficiency
= 80.66 %

LINE EFFICIENCY
Line Efficiency =
Total
Earned = No of produced Gmts. X SMV of that Gmt.
Minutes
Total
Available = No. of operators x Work Minutes.
Minutes

LINE EFFICIENCY
e.g. - 5
A unit of 24 operators produced 400 Gmts. SMV of
garment is 20.10. Assume a working day has 480
Minutes. What was the line efficiency?
Total earned minutes = 400 X 20.10 = 8040
Total available minutes = 24 X 480 = 11520
line efficiency =
= 69.79 %
100
11520
8040
X

FACTORY EFFICIENCY
Factory efficiency = 100
factoryainminutesavailableTotal
factoryainminutesearnedTotal
X

FACTORY EFFICIENCY
e.g. 6
There are 4 line in a pants manufacturing factory and they
work 8 hours. Following data has been taken in one particular
day.
Line no No. of
operators
Total
SMV
No. of
produced
pieces
Total
earned
minutes
Total
available
minutes
Efficie
ncy
01 54 49.50 351 17375 25920 67%
02 48 34.60 559 19341 23040 84%
03 50 38.40 500 19200 24000 80%
04 49 30.00 353 10590 23520 45%
Average 69 %
Total 66506 96480
Factory efficiency = = 68.9%100
96480
66506
X

INDIVIDUAL PERFORMANCE
PERFORMANCE =
(of individual)
100
minutesstd.Off–minutesAvailable
minutesEarned
X

INDIVIDUAL PERFORMANCE
e.g. - 7
An operator worked for 8 hours on an activity of
having a SMV of 0.55. She produced 682 pieces of
that activity. She had 40 minutes of stoppage time
due to machine breakdown & power failure. What
was her performance?
Performance
= 85.25%

FACTORS AFFECTING OPERATOR
PERFORMANCE
 Accuracy of work measurement - correct SMV
 Proportion of training
 Operator skills and stamina
 Operator motivation
 Incentive scheme
 Availability of sufficient work
 Quality ( occurrence of rejects)

FACTORS AFFECTING OPERATOR
PERFORMANCE
 Style changes
 Method
 Equipment and work aids
 Machine condition
 Psychical and mental condition
 Wiliness of the operator

LINE PERFORMANCE
Line performance =
minutesstandardoffTotal–minutesavailableTotal
100xminutesearnedTotal

LINE PERFORMANCE
from the previous example
Line
no
No. of
operat
ors
Total
SMV
No. of
produced
pieces
Lost
time/
min.
Total
earned
minutes
Total
available
minutes
Efficienc
y
Performan
ce
01 54 49.50 351 1845 17375 25920 67% 72%
02 48 34.60 559 870 19341 23040 84% 85%
03 50 38.40 500 425 19200 24000 80% 81%
04 49 30.00 353 6212 10590 23520 45% 61%
Avg 69 % 75%
Tot 9352 66506 96480
Factory performance = = 76%
9352-96480
100X66506

INCENTIVE SCHEME
Incentive
Amount
Share of profit earned
by increasing the avg.
efficiency over
costed efficiency
Saving on earned
minutes per
Operator per day
for 1% efficiency
increase
Rs.24.00

HOW A TEAM GET QUALIFIED FOR
INCENTIVE
End line weekly average First Pass Yield
(FPY) is equal or more than 95% efficiency
Weekly average efficiency of a line
≥
Costed Weekly Avg. Efficiency +Incremental
Qualified for Incentive

QUALIFIED EFFICIENCIES & INCENTIVE
AMOUNT
No. of output
weeks
Qualified Eff.
Amount paid @
Q. Level (Rs.)
Profit earned by
increasing the avg.
efficiency over the
costed efficiency per
operator
1st week (1-6 Days) Costed Eff.+10 Rs75 Rs 240
2nd week (7-12 Days) Costed Eff.+15
Rs 110 Rs 360
3rd week & onward
(13 Days..)
Costed Eff.+20
Rs 150 Rs 480

OPERATION BREAKDOWN AND LINE
BALANCING
In this unit, we shall look in detail at operation
breakdown and production line balancing.

OPERATION BREAKDOWN
What is ‘Operation Breakdown’?
In the clothing industry, operation breakdown is the
separation of the making-up operations so that
garments can be made up quickly and cheaply using
available labour and machinery.

PURPOSES OF OPERATION
BREAKDOWN
The main purposes of operation breakdown are:
 To achieve higher productivity. The garment -making
process is separated into different operations. This
means that workers can perform different operations
according to their skills. This leads to higher productivity.
 To facilitate production line balancing. Details of
production line balancing will be discussed in section of
this unit.

 To facilitate machine / operator specialization.
Specialized machines can be used in the garment-
making process. These machines have a high
production capacity and produce high-quality goods.
 To improve the operations’ skills. Operators’ skills
will improve as a result of constant practice.

PRODUCTION LINE BALANCING
What is ‘Production Line Balancing’?
Production line balancing is the allocation of the
work to be done to the people available to do it.

PURPOSES OF PRODUCTION LINE
BALANCING
 To ensure a steady flow of work through the
production line. A balanced production line does not
have any bottlenecks. This is because since the work
flow is based on the output and capabilities of the
workers in each operation of the manufacturing
sequence. More work stations provided for
complicated work. Simple work requires fewer work
stations.

 To reduce the material handling time and
manufacturing costs. Since work flows steadily along
the production line, material handling time can be
reduced. This reduces manufacturing costs.
 To make the best use of space. A balanced
production line will give the minimum level of work
in progress (W.I.P).The smaller the level of W.I.P, the
smaller the space needed for production.

 To improve the working environment. A better working
environment is possible with a balanced production line.
This is because work is not allowed to accumulate on the
production line. The sewing room will therefore be tidier.
 To improve control of the production schedule. Reliable
data on output is easily obtained on a properly balanced
production line.
 To reduce labour turn over. A properly balanced
production line is designed so that a worker has enough
time to complete his/her work. Workers must not be
overloaded with work. Nor must they be left idle. An
incentive scheme may be implemented to reduce labour
turnover.

CYCLE TIME
The maximum time taken for the particular operation to
give the line target.
Cycle time =
e.g.
Working hours = 8
100% line target = 670
Cycle time =
= 0.72
targetline100%
minutesworking
670
608X

THEORETICAL MANNING LEVEL (TML)
Theoretical manning level required to complete the
particular operation
TML =
e.g.
SMV of a operation is 0.50
Cycle time is 0.72
TML =
= 0.69
Cycletime
SMV
72.0
50.0

BALANCING A LINE
e. g. 1
The line target is 685 garments and per day and
length of the day is 480 minutes.
cycle time =
= 0.70
685
480

Operati
on no.
Operation Machine
type
SMV TML Actual
operators
operator
01 Front panel att. 5 O/L 0.71 1.01 1 1
02 Front panel
topstitch
S/N/L/S 0.59 0.84 1 2
03 Back panel O/L 3 O/L 0.41 0.59 1 3
04 Back panel att 5 O/L 0.60 0.86 1 4
05 Back panel topstitch S/N/L/S 0.66 0.94 1 5
06 L & R back panel att S/N/L/S 0.29 0.41 1 6
07 Front & back facing
att at shoulder
S/N/L/S 0.35 0.50 6
08 Front & back facing
edge O/L
3 O/L 0.32 0.46 3
09 Size lable and main
lable tack
S/N/L/S 0.23 0.33 1 7
10 Main lable tack to
facing
S/N/L/S 0.36 0.51 7
11 Shoulder join S/N/L/S 0.37 0.62 1 8

Operatio
n no.
Operation Machine
type
SMV TML Actual
operators
operator
12 Zipper att S/N/L/S 0.57 0.81 1 9
13 Facing att to
neck
S/N/L/S 0.45 0.64 1 10
14 Neck outline S/N/L/S 0.34 0.49 10
15 Facing att to
arm hole
S/N/L/S 0.63 0.90 1 11
16 Facing att to
back
S/N/L/S 0.36 0.51 1 12
17 Side seam 5 O/L 0.44 0.62 1 13
18 Arm hole
outline
S/N/L/S 0.64 0.91 1 14
19 Facing tack
under arm
S/N/L/S 0.41 0.59 12
20 Bottom hem S/N/L/S 0.68 0.97 1 15
Total 10.05 13.51 15

BALANCING LOSS
SMV of an operation is not exact multiplication of
cycle time. So the TML less than Actual manning level
(AML). Therefore, a certain amount of idle or
inefficient time will be there. That is called balancing
loss. This is express as a percentage.
Balancing loss =
=
= 9.9%
100
)(
X
AML
TMLAML
100
15
)51.1315(
X


Q & A

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Work study

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