Effective ways to improve productivity in garment production include: 1. Conducting motion studies and correcting faulty motions to reduce operation cycle times and improve labor productivity up to 100%. 2. Checking hourly operator capacity to keep operators productive and identify ways to reduce cycle times. 3. Using the best possible line layouts to reduce transportation time and improve line productivity.

1. Effective Ways to Improve Productivity in Garment
Production
-- By Sunjib Anwar

2. Effective Ways to Improve Productivity in
Garment Production
When I look into the processes and operations during my
visit to Production Floor, I find improvement potential is
there in every area. Initially, we may not be able to find and
measure potential areas. Still we can improve productivity
by applying some of the following steps.
I have highlighted few effective ways where we can focus
and start working on improving productivity. To get
excellent result we may need external recommendation
and support but without the external help we can surely get
measurable improvement once we start our journey.

3. Conducting motion study and correcting faulty motions:
There is a saying “Even best can be improved”. Prepare a check list for good
methods and movements. At time of motion study observe operator’s
movement and compare with our checklist. If we found wrong movements is
used by operator or unnecessarily extra movement is present in the operation
cycle correct it. If needed deskill operator. By doing this we can reduce
operation cycle time and can improve labor productivity up to 100%* in
individual operations (*in 20% of the total operations as per Pareto’s 80-20
Principle).

4. Hourly operator capacity check:
Employ work study personnel (presently we don’t have) and start checking
operator capacity hourly or bi-hourly. Compare actual operator’s hourly
production with their capacity. If production is less then question them why?
It helps in two ways – first, when operator’s capacity is checked at regular
interval they will be under pressure. Secondly, work study personnel start
thinking on methods how cycle time can be reduced. Using the capacity
data, you can move ahead in balancing the line.

5. Conduct R&D for the garment:
A non-value added (NVA) process but having a strong
Research and Development (R&D) team in the factory brings lot
of benefits. R&D can be taken as preparation stage for the bulk
production. This department does sample production and look
into potentially critical operations, plan for requirement of special
equipment, advice changes in terms of construction without
changing styling. E.g. if an operation contains some raw
stitches, which doesn’t affect the final look of the garment, then
that operation can be avoided if possible to save time. They
plan for skill requirement for the operations. As a result
production runs without any break or with less no of breaks. As
it reduces the chance of break in production for unnecessary
reasons, line productivity doesn’t come down.

6. Use best possible line layout:
Line layout means placing of machines and centre table (trolley with wheel) as
per style requirement. The main purpose of choosing a better layout is to
reduce transportation time in the line as much as possible. A stable line is not a
good idea if you produce multiple products in a same line. A straight assembly
line with centre table at left side is good for a product that has no preparatory
work and individual operation SAM is nearby the pitch time. When a style
includes lot of preparatory work (for garment parts), it is better to make garment
parts in sections and assemble them later. If possible use overhead
transportation system.

7. Scientific work station layout:
The workstation layout defines from where an operator will pick up work (garment
components) and where she will dispose stitched garment. A scientific layout is
defined as minimum reach for picking up and dispose of components. Every
components and tools (trimmer) must be kept within operator reach. During
workstation designing, engineering must follow key principles.
 Components to be worked on should be positioned as near to the needle as possible.
 Direction of the components where it positioned on the table or track should be such
way that during moving component to the needle point does not need to turn it.
 Placing of work at the same plane of the machine table so that operator can easily slide
it to needle point.
The purpose of designing a good workstation layout is to minimize the material
handling time as much as possible. Thus we can reduce operation cycle time.
Secondary benefit of good workstation is operators can work at same pace without
fatigue. When designing a workstation layout don’t forget to consider ergonomics.

8. Reduce line setting time:
It have been observed that a line reaches at its pick productivity level on day 6-
7 after loading of an order. The time lost in the initial days (learning curve)
brings down the average labor productivity for whole style. Reason - lot of time
is lost during setting of the line for a new style. This reduces overall machine
productivity and line efficiency. So to maintain line productivity level we have to
work on minimizing line setting time or throughput time. To reduce the line
setting time, engineers have to study the garment thoroughly, prepare
operation bulletin with machine requirement and machine layout plan prior to
feeding cuttings to the line. Engineers need to coordinate with line supervisors
and maintenance department with their plans and requirements. This will help
supervisors and maintenance department to be pro-active in arranging required
resources.

9. Improve line balancing:
Purpose of balancing a line is to reduce operator’s idle time or maximize
operator utilization. In a balanced line work will flow smoothly and no time will
be lost in waiting for work. At time of line setting select operators for the
operation matching operator skill history and skill required. Following this
method you will select highly skilled operators for higher work content
operations. Once line is set conduct capacity study at a regular interval. Use
pitch diagram method to find bottlenecks inside the line. We have to think how
we will minimize WIP level at bottleneck operations.

10. Use work aids, attachments, guides, correct pressure foots
and folders:
These are some kinds of time saving devises that facilitate operator to perform their
work effectively with less effort. If work aids are used effectively operation cycle time
can be reduced many fold than existing cycle time. In new and small factories where
there is no experienced technical person (maintenance, IE personnel or production
manager) generally not aware about the usage and availability of work aids. So their
operators sew garment free hand. Labor productivity is comparably higher for the
factories that widely use work aids than those who do not use work aids for the similar
products. Folders and attachments are also very helpful in producing consistent
stitching quality. On the other hand work aids, guides and fixtures reduce operator’s
movement and weight lifting.

11. Continuous feeding to the sewing line:
It is not a fault of production department if they did not get
cuttings to sew. All plans and efforts towards productivity will fail
if line is not been fed continuously. “No feeding or irregular
feeding” is one of the top reasons for lower productivity in poorly
managed factory. Poor production plan, wrong selection product
mix in seasons and ineffective cutting department are the
reasons that stop continuous feeding. Once operators get the
rhythm, they should be given non-stop feeding until style
changeover to keep up the productivity. If we know there is
unavailability of cutting in near future then plan accordingly and
don’t call all operators for that duration.

12. Feed fault free and precise cutting to line:
 Stop cutting and trimming of extra fabric from cut components by operators.
If our cutter does not able to provide precise cutting s/he should be trained.
But faulty cutting don’t be fed. When operators cut fabric he performs
additional task in the operation cycle time. If in some cases trimming is
intended then that task must be included in total work content. Otherwise
we will get wrong (less) efficiency for the operator. Secondly, cuttings with
fabric defects, pattern problem are issued to sewing line. As a result line
produces defective garments. Alteration and repair work for defective
garments reduces labor productivity.

13. Training for Line supervisors:
Line supervisors are Production floor managers. So each supervisor must be
trained with fundamental management skills and communication skill. Still in
most of the supervisors in this subcontinent factories are raised from tailors.
They don’t acquire technical qualification in supervising. But their main job is
providing instruction, transferring information. For which communication skill
training is required for supervisors. Secondly, supervisor should understand the
fundamental of industrial engineering like operation bulletin, skill matrix,
workstation layout, movement, capacity study and theoretical line balancing
etc. If they understood these, they can help engineers or work study boys to
improve line performance. The above training will bring changes in managing
and controlling the lines and will improve labor productivity.

14. Training to the sewing operators:
Operators are main resources in the apparel manufacturing. They
are most valuable resource to the company. So, factory must work
on developing operator skill where required. “Training is not cost but
an investment” said by many experts. Production from an operator
depends on his skill level to the task. A low skilled operator will
consume higher resources (time) and give less output. We will find
quality related issues with low skilled and untrained operators. As the
skill level of the operators is increased through training lines output
will improve. Training does mean lot of time and money. Training
should be given only on specific tasks that will be performed by the
operator. Paul’s article “systematic training for apparel industry
operators – an introduction” is very helpful in this regard.

15. Setting individual operator target:
Instead of giving equal target to all operators working in a line, give individual
target as per operators skill level and capacity. Set an achievable target for
each operator so that they would try to reach the target. This will help
improving operator’s individual efficiency. Use tricks for increasing target step
by step. Take care of the operators who are under target. They may need skill
training.

16. Eliminate loss time and off-standard time:
Utilize operator’s time as much as we can. There is on better alternative way
than just stopping operators sitting idle to improve operator productivity. Non
productive time such as waiting for work, machine breakdown, power failure
and repair work kill your productivity. Start eliminating non-productive time as
much as possible. To start work on this point we have to track off-standard or
non-productive time data according to different categories. Once we have the
analysis and Pareto of non-productive time you can think and plan on reducing
it.

17. Real time Production Floor data tracking system:
For the continuous improvement and prompt action on
failure we need information from the Production floor as
fast as possible. Important information needed such as
hourly production, line balancing, WIP, tracking bundles
and quality performance of the line. If corrective action
is not been taken early problem may increase as time
goes.

18. Using auto trimmer sewing machine (UBT):
Just think how many pieces an operator is producing in a day?
Each time an operator trims thread using a trimmer or scissors
consume time minimum 50 TMU or 2 Seconds (approx). A
rough estimate, in a day operator will lose about 20 minutes just
in thread cutting. In an operation of 0.5 SAM, operator can make
40 extra pieces. Even machine without auto trimmer consumes
more sewing thread. Those who use heavy (half kilogram
weight) scissor may start using hand trimmer.

19. Installing better equipment:
A low performing machine is not acceptable where some of good machines
are idle in the same building. Use the best of resources. If machines or
equipment don’t perform well operator motivation goes down. Repetitive
breakdown of machines increase the loss time and bring down overall line
efficiency and labor productivity. On the other hand where shorter seams
are being stitched, most of the time spent in thread trimming for taking out
work from the needle, normal lock stitch sewing machine are used.

20. Inline quality inspection at regular interval:
 Traffic light system is the most effective inspection
tool to reduce defect generation at source. Less
number of defective seam is made less the time will
be lost in repairing it. Inline checking system will
alert operators in concentrating their job. It also
helps in other way. May be at the start of the style
an operator not understood the specification, an
interaction with quality inspector will make an
operator clear about the quality requirement. Poorly
managed factory loses productivity up to 10% due to
repair and reject as mentioned by Dr. Bheda in his
article “Productivity in Apparel Manufacturing”.

21. Operator motivation:
Operator’s will is the most crucial part in productivity improvement. If they are
motivated, they will put enough efforts on the work. Employee motivation
generally depends on various factors like work culture, HR policies, bonus on
extra effort or achieving target. In garment manufacturing operator’s motivation
come through extra money. Operator motivation can be improve by sharing
certain percentage of you profit made from operator’s extra effort.

22. Plan for operator’s Incentive scheme:
Paul Collyer, British expert says “In British factories, in a non
incentive environment factory can reach up to 80% efficiency
level and if manager expect more than that they had to provide
incentive to operators as well as to the supporting team”. If we
look into Asian factories, in a non incentive environment factories
find it is very difficult to reach up to 40% efficiency. You can see
the potential efficiency that can be converted in money.

23. Incentives:
We need to understand that employees come for work in our
organization for money. Initially we may think that an incentive
scheme may reduce your profit. But in real it works in opposite
direction, provided that incentive system is fair for the workers
and has been implemented intelligently. I have seen factories
(during my Indonesia visit on behalf of Wal*Mart) where
operator efficiency reaches up to 76% from 45% after
implementation of incentive scheme. An incentive scheme will
give lot of other benefits in return as a byproduct. An incentive
scheme designed with multiple parameters may bring discipline
on the Production Floor. As operators give extra effort to the
work, efficiency as well as productivity of the operator increases.