The document outlines the greige fabric inspection and quality control processes in textile manufacturing, emphasizing the importance of preparing fabric for dyeing and printing through pre-treatment steps such as singeing and bleaching. It details various inspection methods, types of defects, and inspection systems, including the 4-point and 10-point grading systems to assess fabric quality. Proper packing and storage practices are also highlighted to maintain fabric quality and prevent deterioration.

1. Greige Fabric Inspection and
Quality Control
Nadir Ali
Lecturer

2. The Pre-treatment Process Flowchart
The pre-treatment process is
a crucial step in textile
manufacturing, as it prepares
the fabric for dyeing and
printing. The process
involves several steps,
including singeing, desizing,
scouring, bleaching, and
mercerizing. Each of these
steps is important in ensuring
that the fabric is free from
impurities and ready for
further processing.

3. Greige Receiving and Recording
 Proper greige receiving and recording
is a critical step in the textile
manufacturing process. It involves
carefully inspecting the fabric as it
arrives, checking for any defects or
inconsistencies, and recording all
relevant information for future
reference.
 To ensure accuracy and efficiency in
this process, it's important to have a
well-trained team with clear guidelines
and procedures. Some tips for success
include having a designated receiving
area, using standardized forms for
recording information, and conducting
regular quality checks throughout the
process.

4. Greige Fabric
 Newly constructed fabric as it comes from the mill is
called as greige fabric
 The goods must pass through various processes to
make it suitable for its intended use

5. GREY ROOM OPERATIONS
Fabric inspection involves following three
processes
• Perching
• Burling
• Mending

6. GREY ROOM OPERATIONS
Perching It is a visual inspection, and it is carried out
through the inspection table which consists of a frosted glass
with lights behind and above it.
The fabric imperfections like thick places, defects, yarn
knots, stains and other flaws are marked.
Burling It is the removal of yarn knots or other imperfection
from the fabric.

7. GREY ROOM OPERATIONS
Mending is the actual repair of imperfections.
• The recent innovation by the use of laser beams.
• The imperfections like stains, holes, thick places, loose ends
and protruding threads of warp and weft are detected.
• Eliminates human error.
Sewing: After the goods have been inspected, checked and classed
in the grey room, according to quality and stamped, they are
sewn together, end to end, by sewing machines

8. • Fabric Inspection
 Principle
 Importance
 Types of Inspection
 Requirements
 Inspection Systems
• Fabric Defects
 Minor, Major and Serious
 Woven & Knitted

9. Major Defect:
A defect that, if conspicuous (clearly visible) on
the finished product, would cause the item to be a
second.
A "second" is a garment with a conspicuous defect
that affects the sale-ability or service-ability of the
item.
Minor Defect:
A defect that would not cause the product to be
termed a second either because of severity or
location.

10. WOVEN FABRIC DEFECTS
Jerk-in (major/minor) - Caused by an extra piece of filling yarn being jerked
part way into the fabric by the shuttle. The defect will appear at the selvedge
Knots (minor) - Caused by tying of yarns together.
Burl Mark (major) - extra piece of yarn is woven into the fabric
Drawbacks (major) - Caused by excessive loom tension applied by some
abnormal restriction. When the restriction is removed the excess slack is woven
into the fabric. Usually, the ends are broken
Dropped Pick (major) - Caused by the filling insertion mechanism on a
shuttle-less loom not holding the filling yarn, causing the filling yarn to be
woven without tension.

11. End Out (major) - Caused by yarn breaking and loom continuing to run with
missing end
Mixed End (major) - Yarn of a different fiber blend used on the warp frame,
resulting in a streak in the fabric
Mixed Filling (major) - Caused by bobbin of lightweight yarn or different
fiber blend used in filling. Will appear as a distinct shade/color change
Open Reed (major) - Results from a bent reed wire causing warp ends to be
held apart, exposing the filling yarn.
Slub (major/minor) - Usually caused by an extra piece of yarn that is woven
into fabric. It can also be caused by thick places in the yarn.
Often caused by fly waste being spun in yarn in the spinning process

12. Smash (major) - Caused by a number of ruptured warp ends that have been
repaired
Soiled Filling or End (major) - Dirty, oil looking spots on the warp or filling
yarns, or on package-dyed yarn
Stop Mark (major/minor) - When the loom is stopped, the yarn elongates
under tension; when loom starts again the slackness is woven into the fabric
Thin Place (major) - Often caused by the filling yarn breaking and the loom
continuing to run until the operator notices the problem

13. •Inspection

14. PRINCIPLE
Inspection
↓
Detection of defects
↓
Feedback of these defects to appropriate
personnel
↓
Determination of causes of defects
↓
Correction of the defects

15. IMPORTANCE
• Fabric inspection is done to determine its
acceptability.
• If inspection is not done, it may result in
(a)Loss of the material
(b)Loss of time
(c) Dissatisfaction due to poor quality
(d)Poor customer return

16. Inspection
 Inspection is carried out mainly to appraise the quality of
products in terms of manufacturing defects and adherence to the
specifications and other requirements.
 Normally, the visual inspection is carried out on the fabric to
examine the occurrence of yarn defects, fabric defects,
design/colors besides specification particulars
 In the earlier days, the inspection was mainly carried out to
segregate the defective products from the good products thereby
controlling the quality of products at the exit points.

17.  In the late 80s, the concept of quality has undergone
total transformation from quality control to quality
assurance and total quality management.
 In the changed scenario, the inspection is mainly
carried out to ascertain that the products conform to
requirement and initiate suitable corrective and
preventive action if otherwise.

18. Types of Inspection
 There are two ways of doing inspection viz. 100% inspection
and sampling inspection.
 The 100% inspection is generally carried out to segregate the
products quality-wise and perform mending activity for
products having mendable defects whereas the sampling
inspection mainly focus on sentencing the lot or batch for
acceptance or otherwise based on the sample.
 This will lead to reduction in defects in the final product,
rejection level, replacement and thereby improve the quality of
the final product which results in quality image in the market

19. Requirements of Inspection
 Inspection and Mending is to be carried out on a flat table
in a well illuminated/ ventilated place.
 Inspection equipments like counting glass, a good
calibrated tape, metallic comb, clipper-plucker needle are
to be provided to the checkers

20. CHECKING OF DIMENSIONS
MEASUREMENT OF WIDTH:
 Width shall be measured at three different places of the fabric
and recorded.
 While measuring width, care should be taken
o · to remove the wrinkles/ crease gently from the fabric surface.
o · to keep the measuring tape straight across the fabric
horizontally from selvedge to selvedge.
o · to measure the width as far as possible near the centre
avoiding the ends.
o · not to stretch the fabric while measuring.

21. MEASUREMENT OF LENGTH:
 Fabric to be measured for length and actual length recorded.
 Length is measured by any of the following methods
o · By passing through metre counter fitted roller.
o · By manually clipping the fabrics in the fold measuring frame.
o · By counting the number of metre fold in case of folded
fabrics.
o Care to be taken to ensure that the folds are of one metre length
by measuring a few folds.

22. CHECKING OF CONSTRUCTIONAL
PARTICULARS
ENDS PER INCH:
 Ends per inch shall be counted at two places along the width of
the fabric and recorded.
PICKS PER INCH:
 Picks per inch shall be counted at three places along the length
of the fabric and recorded.
 Care to be taken while placing the pick glass to see that the
edges of the template should coincide with the yarn.
Ends/Picks per inch may be counted for one inch. Also the
picks should not be counted at defective places like weft bars
and cracks.

23. WEIGHT PER SQ.MTR.:
 Pieces are to be weighed and recorded. Weight per square
metre to be calculated and recorded.
CALCULATION OF WEIGHT/SQ.MTR.:
 · Weigh the individual piece under Inspection and note-down.
 · Work out the sq.mtrs. of the piece by multiplying the length
of the piece in mtrs. and width of the piece in mtrs.
 Calculate wt./sq.mtrs . as:
Weight in kgs.
---------------------------------------------------
Length in mtrs. X Width in mtrs.

24. Inspection Systems
 There are two different systems for grading the quality of
fabric, which are as follows:
SYSTEM . I (4- Point System)
 The 4-point system, also called the American Apparel
Manufacturers Association (AAMA) point grading system for
determining fabric quality, is widely used by producers of
apparel fabrics and by the Department of Defence in the United
States
 Fabric flaws or defects are assigned point values based on the
following:

25. Length of defect in fabric, either length
or width
Points allotted
Up to 3 in. (7.5 cms.) 1
Over 3 in. (7.5 cms.) up to 6 in (15 cms.) 2
Over 6 in. (15 cms.) up to 9 in. (23 cms.) 3
Over 9 in. (23 cms.) 4
Holes and openings
(largest dimension)
Points allotted
1 in. (2.5 cms.) or less 2
Over 1 in. (2.5 cms.)
4

26.  The maximum number of defect points to be counted against
any one linear yard/metre is four points.
 Overall, fabric quality is assessed on the basis of the number
of defect points per 100 sq yards/sq mtrs. of fabric.
ACCEPTABILITY CRITERIA FOR FLAWS:
 Normally fabric rolls containing up to 40 points per 100 sq yds.
and 48 points per 100 sq mtrs. are acceptable.
 However, based on the price line and end product more or less
than 40/48 points per 100 sq. yds./100 sq mtrs. respectively
may be accepted.

27. Example - 1
 A fabric roll of 120 yds. long and 48 in. wide contains the
following defects:
2 defects up to 3 in.
5 defects over 3 in. but less than 6 in.
1 defects over 6 in. but less than 9 in.
1 defect over 9 in.

28.  Points/100 sq. yds
Total points scored in the roll
= ---------------------------------------------------
Fabric width x Total yard inspected
 Answer????????????????????????????????????
??

29. 2 defects up to 3 in. 2 x 1 = 2
points
5 defects over 3 in. but less than 6 in. 5 x 2 = 10
points
1 defects over 6 in. but less than 9 in. 1 x 3 = 3
points
1 defect over 9 in. 1 x 4 = 4 points
TOTAL =19 points

30.  Therefore, Points/100 sq. yds.
Total points scored in the roll x 3600
= ---------------------------------------------------
Fabric width in inches x Total yard inspected
19 x 3600
= ---------------
48 x 120
= 11.9 defect points/100 sq. yds.
 So if the acceptance criteria is 40 points/100 sq. yds. then this
roll is acceptable.

31. SYSTEM . II (10-POINT SYSTEM)
 No linear yard of fabric is assigned more than 10
points, no matter how bad or frequent the defects are.
Acceptability criteria for flaws:
 Fabric is considered of “first” quality if the number of
defect points are less than the number of yards of
fabric inspected.
 In the case of fabrics wider than 50 in., the fabric is
considered of first quality if the total defect points do
not exceed the number of yards of fabric inspected by
10%.

32. Length of defect, Warp
defects
Points allotted
Up to1 inch 1
1 to 5 inch 3
5 to 10 inch 5
10 to 36 inch 10
Filling defect (weft defect) Points allotted
Up to 1 inch 1
1 to 5 inch 3
5 inch to half-width 5
Larger than half-width 10

33. The Fabric Inspection Machinery:
An Overview
 Fabric inspection machinery is a critical
component of textile manufacturing. It
ensures that the fabric meets the required
quality standards before it is shipped to
customers. There are different types of
fabric inspection machinery, each with its
specific functions.
 The first type is the inspection table,
which is used to inspect the fabric for any
defects or faults. The second type is the
rolling machine, which is used to roll the
fabric after inspection. The third type is
the measuring machine, which measures
the length and width of the fabric. Finally,
the packing machine is used to pack the
fabric into rolls for shipping.

34. Fabric Packing and Storage: Best Practices
 Proper fabric packing and storage is
essential for maintaining the quality
and longevity of the fabric. When
packing fabric, it is important to
ensure that it is clean and free from
any debris or contaminants.
Additionally, the fabric should be
folded neatly and stored in a cool,
dry place to prevent mold and
mildew growth.
 When storing fabric, it is important to
keep it away from direct sunlight and
heat sources, as this can cause
fading and damage to the fabric
fibers. It is also recommended to
store fabric in acid-free containers or
wrap it in acid-free paper to prevent
discoloration and deterioration over
time.

35. THANK YOU