The document discusses various defects that can occur during fabric manufacturing and inspection. It notes that fabric defects result from issues during the manufacturing process like machine faults, yarn problems, or improper finishing. Automated fabric inspection systems are growing in importance for the textile industry as most defects are still found manually. The document reviews several studies on different techniques for automated fabric inspection including texture analysis, neural networks, and Gabor filtering.

1. [Year] School Year

2. nowadays the textile industry is very concerned with quality. it is desirable to produce the highest quality goods in the
shortest period of time possible. fabric, being a widely used material in daily life, is manufactured with textile fibers.
textile fibers can be made of natural element such as cotton or wool; or a composite of different elements such as wool
and nylon or polyester. fabric defect detection or inspection is a process identifying and locating defects. a fabric defect is
a result of the manufacturing process. in particular defects result from machine faults, yarn problems, poor finishing,
excessive stretching etc [1]. due to these defects the price of the fabric is reduced by 45% -65% . in general, inspection of
these defects can be done in the various stages of production life cycle. early detection of these defects is helpful to
reduce the fabric wastage. currently, much of the fabric inspection is done manually and only 70% of the fabric defects are
being detected by most highly trained fabric inspectors. there is a grooving realization and need for automated fabric
inspection systems in the textile industry [2]. many new studies and techniques are introduced for automatic fabric
inspection, like fabric inspection using local linear transforms, edge detection, cross-correlation, morphological
operations, bi-level thresholding and using neural networks. [3] proposed the texture analysis technique with artificial
neural networks. this research specifically focuses on applying texture analysis methods on the images of three types of
fabrics. the classification of fabric defects is done by using ann. classifier. heraldic [4] describe the some easily computable
textural features for mage classification. the automated defect detection in uniform textured materials is proposed by
selecting the Gabor filter parameters [5].another method to detect the texture defects was based on the sub-band
decomposition of gray level images through wavelet filters and extraction of the co-occurrence features from the sub-
band images

3. Review of literature

4. Objective
Primary objective
•Reducing DHU in sewing line
Secondary objective
•Detect the cause of sewing defects.
•To analyze the defects by focusing on- man , machine
, material , method.
•To analyze reasons for rework

5. methodology
• Working within sewing department and inspection departments.
• Examination of occurrence of various sewing defects
• Collection of these defects through :
cause and effect diagram analysis.
brainstorming method
• Determining critical defects and reasons for their occurrence
• Implementation of proposed methods for controlling these sewing
defects
• Data collection and chart development
• Result analysis

6. Scope
• Reduction in occurrence of defects.
• Reduction in rework in sewing.
• Reduction in rework cost.
• Reduction in shipment delay.
• increase in efficiency levels
• Improvement in work accuracy.
• QUALITY improvement.

7. Mostly observed sewing defects:
• Open seam
• Broken stitch
• Skipped stitch
• Puckering
• Cut and damage
• Missing parts
• Uneven and wavy stitching
• Measurements incorrect
• Wrong positioning of labels
• Improperly attachment of
labels
• Uneven necklines
• front and back panels at
different heights
• Imposition button holes
• Uneven SPI
• Loose stitch
• Wrong overlocking
• Unfinished hemlines

8. 1.Puckering
2. Open seam
3.Skipped stitch
4.Loose stitch
5.Uneven SPI
6. Concise stitch
7.Broken stitch
8.Stains
Machine defects

9. 1.Missing components
2.Uneven stitch
3.Wrong label
4.Neck imbalanced
5.Measurement out
6.Front /back panels imbalanced
7.Improperly attached buttons
8.Wavy stitch
Man defects

10. 1.Open seam
2.Broken stitch
3.Puckering
4.Skipped stitch
5.Overlocking
6.Cut and damage
7.Interlocking
8.Peacock
Man + machine defects
(combined)

11. Broken stitch Puckering
Cut and damage Missing components
Material + method defects

12. DEFECTS REASONS
1. PUCKERING 1. High pressure of PRESSER FOOT (machine)
2. Thread with bad lubricity (material)
3. Excessive thread tension (machine)
4. Throat plate needle hole unfit for needle size (machine)
2. SKIPPED STITCH 1. Thread tension too loose(machine)
2. Needle blunt(material)
3. Hook/ lopper point damaged (machine)
3. BROKEN STITCH 1. Thread tension too tight (machine)
2. Excessive needle heat (machine)
3. Poor thread quality (material)
4. Burrs on thread guiding elements (machine)
4. OPEN SEAM 1. Wrong SPI-Stitch per inch (machine)
2. Improper handling (man)
3. Irregular seam width (man)

13. DEFECTS TYPE REASONS
5. LOOSE STITCH 1. Thread guides and bobbin unclean (machine)
2. High tension on top thread (machine)
6. WRONG LABEL 1. Carelessness of operator (man)
7. UNEVEN SPI 1. Throat plate adjusted incorrectly (machine)
2. Feed dogs clogged with lint (machine)
8. CUT AND DAMAGE 1. Improper machine setting (machine)
2. Improper handling of material by operator (man)
3. Folder settings (machine)
9. MEASUREMENT OUT 1. Operator’s carelessness (man)
2. Variation of seam allowances on cut panels (man)
10. MISSING COMPONENTS 1. Operator’s carelessness (man)
2. Throwing of bundles from operator to operator (man)
3. Missing while re-bundling (method)
4. Improper instructions (man)

14. DEFECTS TYPE REASONS
11. NECK UNBALANCED 1. Wrong measurements (man)
2. Material handling (man)
12. CONCISE STITCH
13. WAVY STITCH 1. Lack of concentration of operator (man)
2. Improper handling of material (man)
14. OVERLOCKING AND INTERLOCKING 1. Operator’s carelessness (man)
2. Poor thread quality (material)
3. Machine setting (machine)

15. DEFECT ANALYSIS
OBSERVING DIFFERENT STYLES
Style- 22984
BASED ON INSPECTION OF 100 PIECES
Fabric type- DEFECTS DESCRIPTION DEFECT NUMBER
1. PUCKERING Gathering of fabric at some points. 15
2. OPEN STITCH Present at the bottom of waist 20
3. CUT AND DAMAGE Damaged fabric causing hole in the fabric 5
4. BROKEN STITCH Damaged stitch around stitch line 35
5. LOOSE STITCH Can easily be ripped due to improper stitch 10
6. WRONG LABEL 1. Labels were not attached according to
the size of the garment.
2. Labels were not properly secured by
stitching.
3. Labels were attached to wrong side.
20
7. STAINS Yellow oil spots were present 86
8. MISSING PARTS Strings were missing at waist 32
9. WAVY STITCH Seam was not straight 16
10.SKIPPED STITCH Irregular stitch around stitch line 38

16. STYLE-18205/18802
FABRIC TYPE-
STYLE TYPE-
DEFECT TYPE DESCRIPTION DETECTED
DEFECT NUMBER
1. PICO Open at some points.
Got breakage of thread easily
Fabric is not properly picked up leaving it
un-pico.
76
2. CUT AND DAMAGE Fabric near embroidery portions is
damaged due to small and big cuts
88
3. BROKEN STITCH On neckline 36
4. OPEN SEAM On neckline 27
5. SKIPPED STITCH On neckline 12
6. MISSING PARTS String missing on waist level 19
8. HEMLINE Must not be circular
Was twisted
Front and back of different lenghts
25
9. MARGIN DEFECT
10. WRONG LABEL Not properly attached 29
11. STAIN Oil spots 7
12. IMPROPER NECKLINE Not in proper desired shape 6
13. IMPROPER SHOULDERS Must be straight, not inclined 10

17. STYLE-22900
STYLE TYPE-
FABRIC TYPE-
DEFECT TYPE DESCRIPTION DETECTED
DEFECT
NUMBER
1. WRONG LABEL Was attached to wrong side
Wash care label was applied reversed
Bar code –upside applied
100
25
2. CUT AND DAMAGE Near embroidery sections 27
3. STAINS On fabric surface 5
4. BUTTON AND
BUTTON HOLE
Buttons not properly secured
Button holes not at marked positions
39
20
5. BROKEN STITCH On placket, collar, hem
6. SKIPPED STITCH On placket, collar, hem Max=90
7. UNEVEN STITCH On loops on sleeves
8. WRONG FRONT Inside portion stitched as appeared part 10
9.MEASUREMENT OUT Placket lenght 6
10.MISSING PARTS Sleeve strings, buttons 27
11. IMPROPER
OVERLOCKING
Cut and opened at some parts 67

18. STYLE – 22982
STYLE TYPE-
FABRIC TYPE-
DEFECT TYPE DESCRIPTION DETECTED
DEFECT
NUMBER
1. CUT AND DAMAGE Lace posses cuts at some parts
Gathers
25
50
2.PICO Damaged due to cut 12
3. BROKEN STITCH On gatherings 20
4. HEM Improper interlocking 16
5. LOOP Improperly secured , open 12
6.MISSING PARTS loops 7
7. WAVY STITCH On gathers 57
8. OPEN SEAM On gathers , neckline , on lace 77
9.IMPROPER GATHERING
EFFECT
Some portions have open seams
At some parts ,gathers went flat (no
gathering effect)
30
10. WRONG LABEL Size labels attached wrong 25

19. STYLE NO-22992
STYLE TYPE-
FABRIC TYPE
DEFECT TYPE DESCRIPTION DETECTED
DEFECT
NUMBER
1. BROKEN SEAM 6
2. OPEN SEAM Wherever finishing is required 9
3. SKIPPED STITCH (sleeves, loops , hem, neckline) 4
4. MISSING PARTS Buttons were missing on sleeves
Inside sleeve strings were missing
21
5. PUCKERING On fabric surface 4
6. WRONG LABELS Wash care labels (reversed) 5
7. HEM Folded 2
8. CUT AND DAMAGE Near button holes on placket 7
9. BUTTON AND BUTTON
HOLE
Button holes shifted from their
actual positions
Buttons not properly secured
10
33
10.WAVY STITCH On loops and strings 18

20. LIFESTYLE
DEFECT TYPE DESCRIPTION DETECTED
DEFECT
NUMBER
1) UNEVEN STITCH 1. The stitches must be straight according to the
sample provided on yoke attached on neckline
being embroidered completely, but all the
production pieces were having uneven and
curve stitches.
2. While finishing the hem was unevenly folded
In all
pieces
In 67
pieces
2) TOP SEAM 1. There must be single stitch in case of top seam,
mostly the pieces were having double stitches on
arm hole and hem portions.
In 98
pieces
3) OVERLOCKING 1. Pieces were having unfinished over locking.
2. The width of stitches were different from sample
provided.
3. Operator’s carelessness in adjusting machine
settings.
In 80
pieces
4) LOOSE STITCH 1. Happens due to loose setting of thread resulting
in low tension .
In nearly 5
pieces

21. 23832
DEFECTS DESCRIPTION DETECTED
DEFECT
NUMBER
1)CUT AND DAMAGE Mostly appeared near over locking and
waistband
In 7 pieces
2) BROKEN STITCH In 15 pieces
3) SKIPPED STITCH Appears near hemline, neckline, waistband
and inner locking
In 10 pieces
4) LOOSE STITCH In 2 pieces
5) MISSING PARTS 1. Strings were missing on waist belt
2. Sleeve string(inside) was missing
3. Kaj (button hole) was missing
In 8 pieces
In 2-3 pieces
In 5 pieces
6) LABELS 1. Wash care label was applied reversed In 2 pieces
7) OVERLOCKING 1.At some portions the over locked stitched was
loose
2.At some places , stitch was broken and cut
In 5 pieces
In 2 pieces
8) PINCHING Due to wrong margin, operator has taken more
quantity of fabric though less was required,
causing pinching
In 2 pieces

22. Happy few
DEFECT TYPE DESCRIPTION DEFECT NUMBER
1. OPEN AND BROKEN
STITCH
Mostly on collar and cuffs In 20 pieces
2. WIDTH OF PLACKET Variation in placket width In 2 pieces
3. LABELS 1. Wash care warning labels
attached in reversed position
2. Size labels
In 2 pieces
In 2 pieces
4. MISSING PARTS 1. Strings were missing
2. Back loop was missing
In 2 pieces
In 5 pieces
5. MEASUREMENT OUT 1. Plackets on both front panels
were not of equal length
In 2 pieces
6. UNFINISHED STITCHING 1. At cuffs In 7 pieces

23. Skirt with laces
DEFECT TYPE DESCRIPTION DEFECT NO
1. CUT AND DAMAGE Laces were attached to the skirt with over
locking stitches, but these were mostly opened
and cut causing easy and damaged detachment
In 75 pieces
2. MISSING PARTS Strings were missing, designed for hanging In 88 pieces
3. RAFU In lining In nearly 11
pieces
4. OPEN STITCH On wait belt due to loose and broken stitches In 7 pieces

24. DEFECTS RECTIFICATIONS
1. PUCKERING 1. Replacement of bad quality thread with good one
2. Use of throat plate with small needle hole according to needle
3. Needle/bobbin thread readjusted
4. Reduction in foot pressure
2. SKIPPED STITCH 1. Replace needle
2. Replace hook/looper
3. Readjustment of tension
3. OPEN SEAM 1. Accurate SPI
2. Operator must be trained for proper material handling
3. Proper seam width must be maintained by operator
4.BROKEN STITCH 1. Thread tension must be adjusted
2. Spun poly thread must be used
3. Apply needle coolers
4. Polish thread guiding elements
5.WRONG LABEL 1. Operator must be careful while attaching labels
2. Operator must be trained enough to make visible right side of label
6.MEASUREMENT OUT 1. Operator must be careful while taking measurements
2. Size wise rechecking of patterns

25. DEFECTS RECTIFICATION
7.LOOSE STITCH 1. Timely cleaning of bobbin and guides
2. Maintenance of top thread tension
8. CUT AND DAMAGE 1. Thread tension must be in control
2. Machine should be properly set in order to avoid any loose settings
3. Material and machine should be properly handled
4. Operator should be trained
5. Needle setting should be proper
9.MISSING PARTS 1. During stitching , pieces should not be thrown from operator to operator.
2. Before and at the time of re-bundling piece should be counted
3. Proper instructions must be given to each operator in order to avoid any
mismatch, confusion, confusion, loss
10. FRONT AND BACK PANELS
IMBALANCED
1. Careful checking of measurements
2. Proper operator training
11. UNEVEN SPI 1. Correct adjustment of throat plate
2. Timely cleaning of throat plate
12. UNEVEN MARGIN
13. NECK IMBALANCED Proper operator training, measurement checking
14. UNEVEN AND WAVY STITCH 1. Operator must be careful while stitching
2. Operator should handle material properly

26. Inner type DEFECT TYPE DESCRIPTION DEFECT NO.
1. CONCISE STITCH 1. In
2. CUT AND DAMAGE
3. MISSING PARTS
4. OVERLOCK
5. LABEL In
6. OPEN STITCH In 9 pieces