textile testing in fabric rizwan

Created By – Rizwan Rajik Qureshi

Project Report
On
Submitted by
Mr. Rizwan Rajik Qureshi
(Bachelor of Textile Science, 3rd Year)
Under the Guidance of
Mrs. Snehal Rohadkar
BACHELOR OF TEXTILE SCIENCE
MAHALAXMI JAGDAMBA COLLAGE OF LIBRARY & INFORMATION SCEINCE
RASHTRASANT TUKDOJI MAHARAJ NAGPUR UNVIVERSITY,
NAGPUR.2018-2019
File
N
otC
opy

Is a record of dissertation work
Carried out by
Submitted in the partial fulfilment of requirement
For the degree of Bachelor of Textile Science
Of R.T.M. Nagpur university.
MAHALAXMI JAGDAMBA COLLAGE OF LIBRARY & INFORMATION SCEINCE
RASHTRASANT TUKDOJI MAHARAJ NAGPUR UNVIVERSITY,
NAGPUR.2018-2019
Mrs. Snehal Rohadkar
Guide
Mrs. Rakshta Mankar
Principal
Mrs. Meghna Polkat
Head of
Department
File
N
otC
opy

Preface
Textile fabrics are manufactured for many different end uses, each of
which has different performance requirements. The chemical and physical
structures of textile fabric determine how it will perform, and ultimately
whether it is acceptable for a particular use. Fabric testing plays a crucial role
in gauging product quality, ensuring regulatory compliance and assessing the
performance of textile materials. It provides information about the physical
or structural, chemical and performance properties of the fabrics.
As consumers become more aware and more demanding of
products, the number of tests required for textile materials has grown. As a
result the testing of fabrics is increasingly varied, in constant ﬂux and full of
the unprecedented challenges of globalization. With the onset of new types
of fabrics for the apparel industry and of technical textiles for functional
applications, and with the increasing number of innovations taking place in
the garment sector, fabric testing procedures have undergone tremendous
changes and there is a need to understand all the procedures before a
testing system is adapted to investigate the performance of fabrics.
File
N
otC
opy

Acknowledgements
It was golden opportunity for these project and each step is a learning
process of one life. Each opportunity that we get adds something to
our personality. I take this opportunity to express my profound
gratitude towards every who helped me through the making of this
project.
To being with I must acknowledge the wholehearted support I
received from Mrs. Snehal Rohadkar.
I am also thankful to Principle Rakshta Mankar Madam for their
valuable guidance. Mahalaxmi Jagdamba Mahavidhylaya Nagpur.
I would like to express my sincere thanks to Mr. Aashish Sharma Sir
(HR) RAYMOND LTD. who was my trainer in Charge here. My outmost
thanks to all the staff members for their valuable support,
encouragement, guidance and suggestion during the Project
I would also like to thanks Mr. Raghvendra mujumdar sir (HOD of
Quality control) RAYMOND LTD. for imparted a necessary guidance
and Knowledge for the fulfilment of the project completion.
Finally I thank to all my friends and each and every member for their
unfailing, valuable suggestion, support & assistance.
Bachelor of Textile Science - Final Year
Mahalaxmi Jagdamba Mahavidhylaya
collage, Nagpur
File
N
otC
opy

Abstract
Fabric testing plays a crucial role in gauging product quality,
assuring regulatory compliance and assessing the performance
of textile materials. It provides information about the physical
or structural properties and the performance properties of the
fabrics. Today more and more countries and markets have a
stake in the treatment and testing of fabric. As consumers
become more aware and more demanding of products, the
number of tests required for textile fabrics has grown. As a
result the testing of fabrics is increasingly varied, in constant
flux and full of the unprecedented challenges of globalization.
This introductory chapter describes the importance, scope,
current status and future trends in fabric testing.
Key words: scope of fabric testing, importance of fabric
testing, future of fabric testing, standards for tests.
File
N
otC
opy

STIFFNESS TESTER
37 - 41
MOISTURE
MANAGEMENT
59 - 63
SEAM SLIPPAGE
16 -20
FASTNESS TO RUBBING
21 – 25
GSM CUTTER
26 - 31
THICKNESS TESTER
32 - 36
OBJECTIVE OF TESTING
4 - 6
PILLING TESTER
42 - 47
TEARING STRENGTH
48 - 53
COLOUR FASTNESS
54 - 58
CREASE RECOVERY
64 - 67
CONCLUSION
68 - 69
INTRODUCTION
1 - 3
SAMPLING
7 - 9
FABRIC TESTING FOR
INNOVATION AND
COMMERCIAL NEEDS
10 - 11
SCOPE OF FABRIC
TESTING
12 - 15
Contents
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 1
INTRODUCTION
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 2
1. Introduction
Testing of textiles refers to numerous procedures for assessing myriad fibre,
yarn and fabric characteristics such as fibre strength and fineness, yarn linear
density and twist and fabric weight, thickness, strength, abrasion resistance,
colour fastness, wrinkle resistance and stiffness. It is the application of
engineering knowledge and science to the measurement of the properties
and characteristics of, and the conditions affecting, textile materials. It
involves the use of techniques, tools, instruments and machines in the
laboratory for the evaluation of the properties of the textiles (Grover and
Hamby, 1960). Textile testing has become more important in recent years as
a result of the new demands placed upon the products of textile
manufacturers. Advances in textile technology, combined with the rise in the
number of knowledgeable consumers with firm demands for specific
performance behavior, have made it essential that the properties of a
material must be well understood and must be maintained over a long
period of time (Slater, 1993). An understanding of the principles of these
procedures, a certain degree of skill in carrying them out and the expertise
to interpret reported results are important steps in developing the ability to
correlate structure with performance.
The main reasons for testing of textiles are control of product, control of raw
materials, process control and analytical information. Testing is actually a
two-way process, in which the incoming raw materials that will be needed
to manufacture the company’s products will be scrutinized to ensure that
they meet the specifications. That is, any manufacturing problems will be
minimized while also ensuring that the textile item thus made will not result
in problems for the customers; namely, that the item being manufactured is
a quality product (Adanur et al., 1995).
Testing is also important in order to control the manufacturing process and
cost. In the textile industry, it is very important to use testing to control the
manufacturing process for cost and other reasons. The importance of testing
cannot be disregarded for product satisfaction and control of manufacturing
cost. There are additional reasons such as customer relations, reputation,
employee satisfaction and sales. Proper testing programmers are a very
important ingredient of the efficient manufacturing business. Testing
informs us whether the product will be saleable or not (McCullough, 1978).
1. Introduction
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 3
Quick response and just-in-time delivery have become increasingly
important as textile suppliers and purchasers like to shorten the supply-side
pipeline. Quality considerations, mandated by the International
Organization for Standardization (ISO), have forced suppliers to update
testing methods, explore opportunities for more rapid testing and develop
entirely new test methods. One of the most compelling reasons for the rise
of rapid testing of textile products is the increasing globalization of the
textile industry (Mock, 2000). Materials for an individual garment or fabric
are often sourced today from a variety of suppliers, literally from around the
globe. This necessitates the testing procedures to be highly competitive and
accurate to analyze the textile product’s characteristics to meet a particular
end use. The test procedures today need to be more objective than
subjective. Instrumentation may definitely help in this regard. A key issue in
modern testing is to understand the complexity of the instruments and their
working principles and finally to interpret the results in a systematic and
scientific way.
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 4
OBJECTIVE OF TESTING
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 5
2. Objective of Testing
Reasons for Textile Testing:
Checking the quality and suitability of raw material and selection of
material.
Monitoring of production i.e. process control.
Assessment of final product, whether the quality is acceptable or not,
(how will be the yarn performance in weaving? etc).
Investigation of faulty materials (analysis of customer complaint,
identification of fault in machine etc.).
Product development and research.
Specification testing: Specifications are formed and the materials are
tested to prove whether they fall within the limits allowed in the
specification (e.g. specified by a customer).
Standardization of Testing:
Requirements of results
(A) Explicit (how they will perform or how they meet the specification).
(B) Implicit (variability of results obtained either from time to time, operator by
operator or lab to lab).
The lack of reproducibility of results of material may be due to:
a) Variation in the material
It can be solved through,
By proper sampling
Use of suitable statistical methods to analyse the results
b) Variation due to test methods
Due to operator (care in mounting of specimen, adherence to the test procedures,
etc.)
Specimen size
Atmospheric condition
2. Objective of Testing
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 6
Type of test equipment
Test condition – speed, pressure, etc.
To minimize these variation standard test methods are followed
Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) – India
British Standards (BS) – Britain
American Society for Testing of Materials (ASTM) - USA
Deutsches Institut fur Normung (DIN) – Germany Standards Institute
TERMS RELATED TO TEXTILE EVALUATION
A) QUALITY: International Organization for Standardization (ISO)
“Ensemble of properties and characteristics of a product or a service which confer on it
the capacity to satisfy expressed or implicit requirements” - “suitable for use” or “fitness
for use”.
B) TESTING
A means of determining the capability of an item to meet specified requirements by
subjecting the item to a set of physical, chemical, environmental or operating actions,
and conditions.
C) INSPECTION
Activities such as measuring, examining, testing, one or more characteristics of a
product or service, and comparing these with specified requirements to determine
conformity (end breakage study in R/F, looms, fabric inspection etc).
D) QUALITY CONTROL
The operational technique and activities used to fulfill requirements of quality D = f (B, C
…)
E) STATISTICAL QUALITY CONTROL (SQC)
The application of statistical technique to the control of quality.
F) QUALITY ASSURANCE (QA)
All those planned or systematic actions necessary to provide adequate confidence that a
product or service will satisfy given requirement for quality. (Control of vendors for
supply of raw material, Chemicals etc., time management, e.g. idle time of m/c)
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 7
SAMPLING
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 8
3. SAMPLING
Sampling:
It is not possible or desirable to test all the raw material or all the final output
from a production process because of time and cost constraints.
Many tests are destructive so that there would not be any material left after it
had been tested. Because of this, representative samples of the material are
tested.
Terms used in sampling:
Consignment:
This is the quantity of material delivered at the same time. Each consignment may
consist of one or several lots.
Test lot or batch:
This consists of all the containers of a textile material of one defined type and quality,
delivered to one customer according to one dispatch note. The material is presumed to
be uniform so that this is the whole of the material whose properties are to be
characterised by one set of tests. It can be considered to be equivalent to the statistical
population.
Laboratory sample:
This is the material that will be used as a basis for carrying out the measurement in the
laboratory. This is derived by appropriate random sampling methods from the test lot.
Test specimen:
This is the one that is actually used for the individual measurement and is derived from
the laboratory sample. Normally, measurements are made from several test specimens.
Package:
Elementary units (which can be unwound) within each container in the consignment.
They might be bump top, hanks, skeins, bobbins, cones or other support on to which
have been wound tow, top, sliver, roving or yarn.
Container or case:
A shipping unit identified on the dispatch note, usually a carton, box, bale or other
container which may or may not contain packages.
TYPES OF SAMPLE:
RANDOM SAMPLE:
3. SAMPLING
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 9
In this type of sample every individual in the population has an equal chance of being
included in it. It is free from bias, therefore truly representative of the population.
NUMERICAL SAMPLE:
A sample in which the proportion by number of, say, long, medium, and short fibers
would be the same in sample as in the population.
BIASED SAMPLE:
When the selection of an individual is influenced by factors other than chance, a sample
ceases to be truly representative of the bulk and a biased sample results.
Causes of bias in sampling:
Bias due to physical characteristics:
Longer fibers always have a greater chance of being selected.
Position relative to the person:
Lab assistant may pick bobbins from top layer of a case of yarn (whether to save himself
the task of digging down into the case or because he has never been told otherwise, we
do not know), but the bobbin chosen will be biased due to their position.
Subconscious bias:
Person selecting cones will pick the best looking ones free from ridges, cubwebbed ends,
etc., without thinking about it.
FABRIC SAMPLING:
Fabric samples from warp and weft are taken separately.
Warp direction should be marked before it is cut out.
No two specimens should contain same warp or weft threads.
Samples should not be from within 50mm of selvedge.
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 10
Fabric testing for innovation
and commercial needs
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 11
4. Fabric testing for innovation and
commercial needs
Textile fabrics are manufactured for many different end uses, each of
which has different performance requirements. The chemical and
physical structures of textile fabric determine how it will perform, and
ultimately whether it is acceptable for a particular use. Fabric testing
plays a crucial role in gauging product quality, assuring regulatory
compliance and assessing the performance of textile materials. It
provides information about the physical or structural properties and
the performance properties of the fabrics.
Physical properties include those that characterize the physical
structure of the fabric and tests that measure these properties are
sometimes called characterization tests. Physical properties include
fabric thickness, width, weight and the number of yarns per unit fabric
area (i.e. fabric count). Performance properties are those properties
that typically represent the fabric’s response to some type of force,
exposure or treatment. These include properties such as strength,
abrasion resistance, pilling and colour fastness. Performance
properties are mostly influenced by their physical properties.
Although performance properties are often the primary factors in
product development, aesthetic properties are equally important
such as the way a fabric feels or drapes in design and development
decisions. In some cases, trade-offs occur between performance
characteristics and aesthetics, while in others, decisions based on
aesthetic factors can also enhance product performance (Collier and
Epps, 1999).
• Protective garments (e.g. ballistic and stab resistant fabrics, UV
Protective wear)
• Functional fabrics (e.g. photochromic textiles)
• Textiles for acoustic applications (e.g. in automotive)
• Smart and electronic textiles (e.g. fabric sensors and actuators).
4. Fabric testing for innovation and
commercial needs
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 12
SCOPE OF FABRIC TESTING
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 13
Scope of fabric
testing
Physical
testing
Chemical
testing
Biological
testing
visual
examination
Physiological
testing
Intelligence
testing
5. SCOPE OF FABRIC TESTING
The performance of a fabric is ultimately related to the end-use conditions of a material. The
physical, chemical, physiological and biological influences on fabrics affect their end-use
performance (Saville, 1999). Although all agents affect textile performance at the fibre, yarn
and fabric levels, emphasis is generally given to fabrics since they represent the largest class
of textile structures in a variety of applications.
Thus, a fabric is usually the most complex and representative form of a textile structure that
is subjected to these agents and influences in most end uses. Testing of fabrics and quality
control is broad in its scope
Physical testing
The first broad class of factors that affect the performance of fabrics are physical agents and
influences. These may be further subdivided into mechanical deformation and degradation, tactile
and associated visual properties of fabrics (such as wrinkling, buckling, drape and hand) after their use
and manufacture, and their response to heat, liquids and static charge. The testing of fabrics to
mechanical deformation is very important and refers to fabrics that are subjected to variable and
complex modes of deformation. They include tensile behaviour, compression, bending or flexing,
shrinkage, abrasion resistance, frictional rubbing, torsion or twisting, and shear. Fabrics with special
features or constructions require either additional tests or modification of existing tests for
conventional fabrics to characterize adequately their mechanical and related properties. Coated
fabrics must be evaluated not only for their mechanical integrity and behaviour but also for their
bonding integrity of the coating to the fabric (Vigo, 1994). The development of new fabrics for
industrial and functional purposes has introduced a new set of physical testing procedures for these
fabrics. Conductive fabrics used in conjunction with metals for detecting electromagnetic signals
need to be tested for their electromagnetic behaviour. High performance clothing demands the
testing of parameters such as impact resistance, thermal resistance, moisture vapour transmission,
5. SCOPE OF FABRIC TESTING
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 14
etc. Comfort and aesthetic properties of speciality fabrics is another area that needs to be addressed.
Wear resistance of protective fabrics has to be considered in physical testing.
Chemical testing
Chemical and photochemical exposure of textiles may lead to yellowing or discolouration of undyed
fabrics, to fading of dyed fabrics, and/or to degradation of dyed and undyed fabrics. These adverse
results are due to depolymerization of the polymer chain in the fibre that may occur by hydrolysis,
oxidative processes and/or crosslinking. Textile fabrics have varying degrees of resistance to chemical
agents such as water and other solvents, to acids, bases and bleaches, to air pollutants and to the
photochemical action of ultraviolet light. Resistance to chemical agents is dependent on fibre type,
chemical nature of the dyes, additives, impurities, finishes present in the fibre, and to a lesser extent
on the construction and geometry of the fabric. The testing of fabrics towards the above influences is
very important in assessing the performance of the fabrics for various end uses (Jones, 1981). The
development of chemically resistant protective clothing and textile filtration media has led to test
methods relevant to these end uses.
Biological testing
Textile fabrics may be adversely affected by various microorganisms and insects. The effect of
biological agents on textile fabrics is important for enhancing their end-use performance in many
areas. Fabrics will have desirable aesthetic qualities if they can suppress odourcausing bacteria and
other types of odourcausing microorganisms. The hygienic and medical effectiveness of fabrics is
required to prevent the growth of dermatophytic fungi (those that cause skin disease), pathogenic
and potentially lethal microorganisms on fabrics and to prevent their infestation by insects. Finally,
prevention of fibre discolouration and degradation, usually by fungi and insects, prolongs the useful
life of the material. Testing of fabrics and evolution of specific test methods for the above biological
influences would help manufacturers, retailers and users of fabrics to develop strategic ways to
maintain and protect their fabrics in storage and transportation. These tests would be useful for rapid
screening of various modified and unmodified fabrics for their ability to withstand biological attack.
Visual examination
Fabrics can be evaluated for a variety of attributes to assess their performance by visual assessment
either manually (subjective assessment) or by objective evaluation techniques. Visual examination of
fabrics includes evaluating the texture, surface characteristics, dye shade variations, design details,
weave patterns, construction particulars, pilling assessment, etc.
Intelligence testing
In the last decade, research and development in smart/intelligent materials and structures have led
to the birth of a wide range of novel smart products in aerospace, transportation,
telecommunications, homes, buildings and infrastructures. Although the technology as a whole is
relatively new, some areas have reached the stage where industrial application is both feasible and
viable for textiles and clothing. Important intelligent materials at present are phase change materials,
shape memory materials, chromic materials and conductive materials. Many intelligent textiles
already feature in advanced types of clothing, principally for protection and safety and for added
fashion or convenience. The testing programmes must include the testing of these fabrics to meet the
ever growing demand for hi-tech fabrics and garments.
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 15
Physiological testing
Clothing is designed to maintain a hygienic and comfortable zone about the human body in which one
feels well, even if inner or outer influence change rapidly. The zone in which the temperature,
moisture and air circulation are properly matched is called the ‘comfort zone’. The so-called micro-
climate that prevails there is defined by definite physical and physiological conditions. There are
physiological and psychological positive comfort sensations but these tend to be more individualistic
and less frequently noticed in the wearer of the garment. Therefore, in the assessment of a fabric or
garment for a particular end use, the comfort of that product is considered to be very important.
Fabric testing therefore needs to address the comfort properties of fabrics.
Quality Control for manufacturing
The meaning of the term quality is elusive: everybody has their own idea of what is meant by it, but it
is difficult to express the idea in a concrete form. However, in order to produce a quality product,
manufacturers need to have a definition of quality which will allow them to measure how far their
products meet the requirements. Quality can be defined in two broad dimensions: perceived quality
and functional quality. The perceived quality supports the corporate image, creates interest and
generates an initial purchase. The buying is done on the basis of three basic parameters – the item
looks good, feels good and offers good value for money – whereas the functional quality is related to
the supplier and involves make, size and performance.
Textile standards:-
Standard is a prescribed required level of performance of material. These
standards are:
• NFPA: National Fire Protection Association
• ANSI: American National Standard Institute
• ISO: International organization for Standardization
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 16
SEAM SLIPPAGE
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 17
6. SEAM SLIPPAGE
Introduction:
The seam performance and quality depend on various factors such as seam strength,
seam slippage, seam puckering, seam appearance and yarn severance. Sewing
needle penetration forces and fabric deformation during sewing are effective factors
for seam performance, too. Appearance and performance of the seam are dependent
upon the quality of sewing threads and their dynamic behaviour. One essential
requirement of any thread is that it must be compatible with the needle size, various
sewing machine settings (sewing speed, thread tension) and the fabric on which it is
being sewn. Seam damage can be a serious cost problem, often showing only after
the garment has been worn. The most important parameters that have an influence
on seam damage tendency are fabric construction, chemical treatments of the fabric,
needle thickness and sewing machine settings with sewing thread. Fibre content, yarn
construction, tightness and density are important parameters for fabric construction on
seam damage. Seam damage caused by the needle penetration through the fabric
may affect its seam performance. Needle cutting or yarn severance occurs due to
stiffness of the fabric, yarn and its lack of the mobility
 Seam slippage is one of the most objectionable faults in case of woven garments and
it degrades the product quality and hampers the brand image of the manufacturer
very badly.
 Hence it is very essential to analyse various factors influencing seam slippage or seam
slippage strength for woven garment and it is also essential to establish mathematical
relationship or co-relation regression between seam slippage strength and various
processing parameters.
 Also the mechanical and structural properties of the woven fabric play an important
role in occurrence of seam slippage in garment.
 Therefore it is essential to analyse the influence various structural properties of the
fabric on seam slippage keeping the other sewing parameters unchanged.
 Seam slippage is the pulling away or separation of the fabric at the seam, causing gaps
or holes to develop. It involves warp and weft threads pulling apart, but not yarn
breakage.
Seam slippage occurs when the density of the fabrics or the construction is low, less
warp and weft per inch. Sometimes seam slippage occurs when the finished chemical,
like resin or silicon is added on the surface of the fabric. This makes the fabric yarns to
be more slippery and also reduces the tensile strength of the fabric.
6. SEAM SLIPPAGE
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 18
FACTORS AFFECTING TO SEAM SLIPPAGE
 Many factors are identified which have direct or indirect influences on
seam slippage like fabric density (picks per inch and ends per inch),
shrinkage of the fabric, SPI or stitch density, weight of the fabric, rpm of
the machine, GSM of the fabric , cover factor of the fabric etc.
 Seam slippage occurs on woven fabric, when yarns slide together along
other yarns or a line of stitching.
 Seam slippage occurs with a low stitch count, insufficient tension on
threads, or improper stitch and seam selection
 Slippage will more likely to occur in fabrics that have filament yarns, low
counts and unbalanced weave.
 Seam slippage may also be affected by stitch type and size, tension, seam
type and size, thread used for sewing and excessive use of fabric lubricant.
 Some yarns are highly twisted, smooth, and slippery making them more
prone to slippage.
 Sizing applied in manufacturing sometimes help stabilize the fabric, but
may be adversely affected by moisture and perspiration. Breakup of the
sizing will occur during the agitation necessary for dry cleaning.
 Seams may be sewn or constructed improperly with insufficient stitches
per inch.
 Very shallow seam allowances may have been used. Strain on the fabric
at the seams will allow slippage to take place.
 If the item is an extremely tight fit, excessive stress and strain occurs
during wear.
Principle
Seam slippage test – measure the fabric’s movement at the seam slippage
(Mainly for upholstery fabrics).
The fabric samples are sewn together both in the warp and weft direction.
The fabric is then pulled from both sides to 180N and then released to 5N. The opening of the
seam where the two fabric pieces are sewn is then measured.
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 19
Testing
Sample collection: Cut Random sampling Wrinkles or sharp folds
should be excluded
Sample size: 5cm of selvedge
Atmospheric condition: Temp. 22+/- 2°C. R.H% 65+/-3
Conditioning Time: condition the fabric for min. 24 hr. before testing.
Apparatus Used: Sewing machine, seam slippage Tester, Scissors,
Template (10*06 cm.)
Requirement of stitching:-
Testing Procedure: - A]:- Test specimen
1. Cut a rectangular specimen of length approximately 180mm
and width 100mm.
2. Cut three specimen with their long side parallel to warp
specimen and three specimen parallel to weft direction.
3. No two specimen shell contain same warp yarn in the warp
specimen and wet yarn in the weft specimen.
4. Mark a centreline perpendicular to the longer side.
5. Mark two lines at distance of 12mm on either side of the
centreline.
6. Fold the specimen in half by putting the two shorter edges
together and stich a seam on the marked 12mm line from the
fold.
7. Tie the thread at each end of seam cut each specimen along the
fold.
Seam slippage Tester
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 20
Result: - A seam slippage analysis result warp and weft show in table
Breaking Load 8KG
Warp 4
Weft 6
Warp
Weft
SAMPLES
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 21
FASTNESS TO RUBBING
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 22
7. FASTNESS TO RUBBING
Introduction:
A fastness is a place, such as a castle, which is considered safe because it is difficult
to reach or easy to defend against attack. This test is designed to determine the degree
of color which may be transferred from the surface of a colored fabric to a specify test
cloth for rubbing (which could be dry and Wet)
Colour fastness to rubbing is a basic test used by customers to determine the
quality of a coloured fabric and has been an area of concern for processors for
many years. The processor has to be aware of the required standards and relate
them to the possible limitations of what can be achieved on the finished
products.
It helps to understand the test itself, since there are few areas which are missed
by in-house laboratories which may lead to differences in results.
This test is designed to determine the amount of colour transferred from the
surface of coloured textile material to other surfaces by rubbing. It is applicable
to textile made from all fibers in the form of yarn or fabric whether dyed, printed
or otherwise coloured.
Dry Rubbing
 Use the holding clamp to mount the specimen on the baseboard of the
Crockmeter. The long direction of the specimen is parallel to the track of
rubbing. Ensure the specimen lays flat on the baseboard.
 Two tests are performed, one along the direction of the warp/length and
the other of the weft/width.
 Mount a dry rubbing cloth flat over the end of the peg on the Crockmeter
and hold it taut by means of the spring clip provided. Ensure that the
rubbing cloth is not placed on the diagonal in the direction that the peg is
moving.
 Rest the finger on the specimen, ensuring that the spring clip is not in
contact with the test specimen.
 Rub the specimen back and forth over a straight track 100mm + 8mm long
for 10 complete cycles (i.e. 10 times back and forth) at a rate of 1 second for
each cycle.
 It may be necessary to stretch some fabrics on to the base of the
Crockmeter, to prevent the fabric from rucking up.
7. FASTNESS TO RUBBING
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 23
Wet Rubbing
 Wet out a rubbing cloth with distilled/deionised water to have about 100%
pick up. A suitable method is as follows, however any method where the
rubbing cloth picks up its own mass in water is acceptable.
 It is important to understand the quality of water used here. As per
standards, Grade 3 water is a must.
 Weigh the dry rubbing cloth and then thoroughly wet out in distilled/de-
ionised water, squeeze the wet rubbing cloth between blotting paper and re-
weigh on the balance. Make adjustments as necessary by either blotting off
more water or re-wetting.
 Use the following method to calculate 100% pick up of water - original
weight of rubbing cloth x 2 (65% inAATCC method)
 Carry out the appropriate test as the procedure for dry rubbing.
 Allow the tested rubbing cloth to dry at room temperature.
There are two test methods for rubbing fastness.
1. ISO-105-X12
2. AATCC-08
In ISO-105-X12 the wet pickup of the rubbing cloth is 100% .While in AATCC-08 the wet
Pickup of the rubbing cloth is 65%.We check rubbing by Dry and Wet methods. In wet rubbing
we wet the rubbing cloth according to test method and give rating by comparing the Staining
with the gray scale.
Similarly for dry rubbing we check the rubbing with dry rubbing cloth and compare the staining
With gray scale for ratings. Color Fastness to rubbing is a main test which is always required
for every colored fabric either it is Printed or dyed.
If the color fastness to rubbing is good then its other properties like Washing fastness and
durability etc improves automatically because the rubbing is a method to check the fixation of
the color on the fabric. So if the fixation is good its washing properties will be good.
Rubbing Fastness depends on:
 Nature of the Color
 Depth of the Shade
Construction of the Fabric Nature of the color Each color either it is pigment,
Reactive ,Disperse or direct has its own fastness properties to rubbing. There are some colors
like black, Red, Burgundy ,Navy blue which have poor Color fastness properties because of
their chemical structure.
Like Black color is a carbon base color and the particle size of carbon is large than the other
colors that's why its rubbing properties are poor. Similarly red and blue are in the same case.
So to improve the color fastness we add more binder to improve the fastness properties of these
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 24
colors. It doesn't mean that we can not achieve the best results with these colors. The required
results can achieve but production cost will be increase. On the other hand the construction of
the fabric also effects the fastness properties.
Always Check
 Quality construction
 Color
 Depth of the Color
 End Use of the product
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 25
Testing
Scope: this testing is used to determine the degree of fastness to rubbing (Dry &
wet)
Sample collection: Sample is collected randomly from the fabric.
Sample size: 40 cm. full width fabric.
Atmospheric condition: temp. 22+/- 2°C. R.H% 65+/-3
Apparatus Used: Crock meter
8KG Load
The purpose of this test is to insure that textile products do not excessively
transfer of dye or print onto other surfaces such as upholstery, carpeting and
other wearing apparel through rubbing action.
SAMPLES
FABRIC DRY Wet
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 26
GSM CUTTER
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 27
8. GSM CUTTER
Introduction:
The GSM of fabric is one kind of specification of fabric which is very important for a textile
engineer for understanding and production of fabric. ‘GSM’ means ‘Gram per square meter’
that is the weight of fabric in gram per one square meter. By this we can compare the fabrics
in unit area which is heavier and which is lighter.
GSM means grams per square meter of a knit, woven or non-woven fabric. It is essential to
know the weight of the fabric before manufacturing and after getting the finished fabric. It
needs to measure the weight of the fabric to be sure about the finished weight of the fabric.
This test can be carried out in different ways but it is very easy to know the weight of the
fabric by cutting the fabric with the GSM cutter.
Objectives:
1. To determine the GSM of the given samples of fabric.
2. To compare the GSM of them.
Theory:
The weight of a fabric can be expressed in two ways, either as the ‘weight per unit
area’ or the ‘weight per unit length’; the former is self-explanatory but the latter requires
a little explanation because the weight of a unit length of fabric will obviously be
affected by its width. In woven fabric, the weight per unit length is usually referred to
as the ‘weight per running yard’. It is necessary therefore to know the agreed standard
width upon which the weight per running yard is based. Usually this width depends
upon the width of loom. Before coming the term ‘GSM’ there was another term called
‘lb/100 yards’. This expression is used by British Standard. For measuring this there
are a template and a quadrant balance. The template area is 1/100 square yards of
which each arm is 1/10 yards in length. For measuring GSM, a GSM cutter is used to
cut the fabric and weight is taken in balance. Both of these measurement and method
is equally used for both woven and knitted fabrics.
Measure the GSM of the Fabric by GSM Cutter:
It is one type of physical test of the fabric which is known as off line quality
assurance system. By the following way we can measure the weight of the fabric.
 Cut the fabric with the GSM cutter (gram per square inch).
 Weight the fabric with the electric balance.
 The cut sample is 100 sq.cm. The weight of the cut sample is multiplied by 100.
 The result is the GSM of that particular fabric.
8. GSM CUTTER
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 28
After cutting the fabric we can calculate the weight of the fabric as follow.
Suppose,
The weight of the fabric is 2.51 gm. That means the GSM of the fabric is 251. Because when
we cut the fabric with the GSM cutter then we get 1 from the 100 meter from the 1 square
meters.
GSM cutters are used to determine accurately the GSM (Grams per square
meter) of any type of fabrics.
Accessory of GSM Cutter
1. GSM Pad
2. GSM Weighing Scale
Technical Specifications:
 Diameter : 112.8 mm
 Area of Sample Cut: 100 Cm2
 Sample Cut: Up to 500 GSM
 Solid Body Design
 GSM Pad and Blade not required
 Weight of Machine: 10.2 Kg.
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 29
FEATURES
 Single Solid Machine.
 3 Metal Cutting Wheels perfectly synchronized to get precise 100cms2 cut.
 Holds complete grip on the fabric with minimal effort.
 With a smooth rotations the GSM Sample will be appart.
 Long lasting hardened metal wheels gives you smooth & long cutting life.
 Last but not least, all of the above features comes with a economical price tag.
GSM Weighing Scales
Digital GSM Scale offered are designed for delivering precise and accurate reading and is
made available with high contrast LED display option for easy handling of the system. With
these scales available in compact and space saving finish, these can be operated on adapter
and have capacity of 600 gms with least count of 0.01 gm (10 mg). The other specifications
include Pan Size of 130 mm, power of 12V 300 mA AC Adaptor, LED Digital display, In-built
battery backup, Acrylic cover and working compatibility with GSM balance.
Technical Specifications:
 Capacity : 600 gms
 Least Count : 0.01 gm (10 mg)
 Platform Size: 120 mm
 Power : 12V 300 mA AC Adaptor
 BRIGHT LED Digital Display
GSM CUTTER GSM WEIGHING SCALE
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 30
Testing
Apparatus:
1. Template
2. Quadrant balance
3. Scissor
4. GSM cutter
5. Electric balance.
Sample:
1. Finished cotton woven fabric
2. Finished cotton knitted fabric.
Atmosphere:
Temperature – 25oC and relative humidity – 67%
Standard atmosphere: temperature – 20oC and relative humidity - 65%.
M/c specification:
Name: Quadrant balance
Brand: Good brand & Co. Ltd.
Scale: 100 yards for fabric.
Working Procedure of GSM Cutter:
Taking the sample of fabric from bulk and conditioning for 4.30 to 06 hours
↓
Taking the conditioning fabric for test on the G.S.M. cutter pad so that no crease or crinkle is
formed.
↓
Cutting the fabric with G.S.M. cutter (GSM Cutter Diameter 11.2 cm)
↓
Taking the weight of the cut fabric (Length & Width 11.2 cm) in balance and multiply with
100.
↓
Get the GSM of the fabric in oz/yard²
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 31
SAMPLES
GSM gram per
Sq.m.
Sample 1
GSM weight
2.0543
GSM gram per
Sq.m.
Sample 2
GSM weight
2.0801
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 32
THICKNESS TESTER
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 33
9. THICKNESS TESTER
Introduction:
Determination of thickness of fabric samples in laboratory is usually carried out with
the help of a precision thickness gauge. In this equipment, the fabric whose thickness
is to be determined is kept on a flat anvil and a circular pressure foot is pressed on to
it from the top under a standard fixed load. The Dial Indicator directly gives the
Thickness in mm.
The principle of measurement of fabric thickness is based on
“The precise measurement of the distance between two plane parallel plates
separated by the cloth when a known pressure is applied and maintained on the
plates.”
Feature of Fabric Thickness Tester
1. Specialized equipment to determine the thickness of fabrics.
2. Latest model with modern aesthetics.
3. Maximum capacity 10mm & accuracy 0. 01mm.
4. Portable & handy to carry anywhere.
5. Smooth precision-engineered components for accurate results.
6. Analog dial for measuring thickness in millimeters.
7. Supplied with two pressure feet of different size for different type of fabrics.
8. A standard Dead weight is provided with the instruments for accurate result.
9. Supplied with calibration & inspection certificates.
Points to be considered in measuring thickness:
1. The shape and size of pressure foot: A circular foot of diameter inch is
usually used. The ratio of foot diameter and cloth thickness should not be less
than 5: 1.
2. Shape and size of Anvil: If a circular anvil is used it should be at least 2 inch
greater in diameter than the pressure foot. Where the sample is larger than
the anvil, the anvil should be surrounded with a suitable support .e.g. a
smooth plane board.
9. THICKNESS TESTER
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 34
3. Applied pressure: Recommended pressure is specified e.g. 0.1 lb/inch2 or
10.0 lb /inch2. Suitable weights may be added to pressure foot to obtain these
pressures.
4. Velocity of pressure foot: The pressure foot should be lowered slowly on
sample i.e. it needs slow and careful movement.
5. Time: The thickness is read from the dial of the instrument when the
movement of pointer has stopped.
6. Indication of thickness: A clock type dial is usually built into a thickness
tester.
Details of the Main Unit of Fabric Thickness Tester
1. Anvil.
2. Circular Pressure Foot (Dia. 10 mm).
3. Zero Setting Dial Gauge (Bezel).
4. Knob for zero setting of the Dial Gauge.
5. Dead Weight (As Per Standards).
6. Lifting Lever.
7. Grub Screw for Calibration.
8. Circular Pressure Foot (Dia. 25 mm).
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 35
Testing
Apparatus:
1. Shirley thickness tester
2. Fabric
3. Scissor
4. Scale.
M/c specification:
 Name: Shirley thickness tester
 Manufacturer: Shirley Developments Limited, Manchester.
Atmosphere:
 Testing atmosphere: Relative humidity - 65%+/-2% & Temperature - 270+/-20C.
 Present atmosphere: Relative humidity - 68% & Temperature - 290.
Specification of Fabric Thickness Tester:
 Range of measurement : 0 - 10 mm
 Least count of dial gauge : 0.01 mm
 Diameter of anvil : 60 mm
 Diameter of pressure foot (Interchangeable) : 10 mm & 25 mm
 Load on pressure foot : 78.5 g (100g/sq. cm)
 Throat depth : 22 mm
 Overall Dimensions of the Instrument : 115 (L) x 185 (W) x 180 (H) mm 4.5” (L) x 7.5”
(W) x 7” (H) Inch
 Net Weight of the Instrument : 1.9 Kg. (4.18 lbs)
Working Procedure of Fabric Thickness Tester
 The fabric sample that is to be measured is kept on an anvil.
 The press foot is gently lowered on to the specimen.
 The reading is taken to get the thickness of the specimen.
 The flat circular indenter of the micro-meter exerts the specified pressure on the fabric
sample.
 The above procedure is repeated to obtain the values of thickness at least at 3 different
locations.
 The mean value of all the readings of thickness determined to the nearest 0.01m is
calculated and the result is the average thickness of the sample under test.
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 36
(A) corner (B) corner
(E) Mid point
(D) corner (C) corner
FABRIC SAMPLE
Analysis Result:-
(A) Corner point: 0.270
(B) Corner point: 0.273
(C) Corner point: 0.278
(D) Corner point: 0.275
(E) Corner point: 0.273
SAMPLES
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 37
STIFFNESS TESTER
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 38
10. STIFFNESS TESTER
Introduction:
Stiffness is a special property of fabric. It is the tendency of fabric to keep standing
without any support. It is a key factor in the study of handle and drape of fabric.
Measure the flexural rigidity and drape characteristics of flexible materials.
Stiffness Tester the principle of cantilever bending of the specimen under its own
mass. Ideal for testing non-wovens and most fabrics, this tester conforms to existing
test standards. May also be used to evaluate films, paper, leather and other flexible
materials.
Simple to use, rugged design provides repeatable test results.
Using a hand-crank, the specimen is moved across a smooth low-friction platform at
a constant rate. As the leading edge of the specimen projects from the platform, it
bends under its own mass. The length of the overhang is measured when the
specimen’s leading edge contacts the indicator. From this measured length, the
bending length and flexural rigidity are calculated.
Rugged design includes numerous features.
A fixed indicator is inclined at an angle of 41.5° (0.724 rad) or 45° (0.785 rad) below
the plane of the platform surface, and includes a bend angle reference. The movable
specimen slide includes a leveling bubble and is operated by a precision hand crank.
The overhang scale is calibrated in both metric and English units.
Theory:
A rectangular strip of fabric, 6 in. x 1 in., is mounted on a horizontal platform in such
a way that it over change, like a cantilever, and bends downwards as shown in
figure.
10. STIFFNESS TESTER
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 39
Three specimens in warp way and three in weft are usually tested and since he relative
humidity can affect the results the test should be made in a standard testing atmosphere. The
horizontal platform of the instrument is supported by two side pieces made of plastic.
Attached to the instrument is a mirror which enables the operator to view both index lines
from a convenient position. The scale of the instrument is graduated in centimeters of
bending length and it also serves as the template for cutting the specimens to size.
Standard Features:
Metric / English unit scale Weighted, moveable specimen slide Precision hand-crank
specimen feed Adjustable leveling feet
Fixed indicator at 41.5° or 45°
Base Unit
Specimen Slide with Integrated Leveling Bubble
Operating InstructionsCE marked
Base Unit
Base Unit:
Specimen Slide with Integrated Levelling Bubble
Operating Instructions
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 40
Testing
Objectives:
To measure the stiffness of the given fabric sample.
Apparatus:
1. Stiffness Tester
2. Scissor
3. Scale
Sample:
Cotton woven fabric
Size: 6 X 1².
Atmosphere:
Temperature – 25oC and relative humidity – 67%
Standard atmosphere: temperature – 20oC and relative humidity - 65%.
M/c specification:
Name: Shirley Stiffness Tester
Procedure:
1. To carry out a test the specimen is cut to size 6 in. x 1 in. with the aid of the template.
2. Both the template and specimen are transferred to the platform with the fabric
underneath.
3. Now both are slowly pushed forward.
4. The strip of the fabric will commence to droop over the edge of the platform and the
movement of the template and the fabric is continued until the tip of the specimen viewed in
the mirror cuts both index lines.
5. The bending length can immediately be read off from the scale mark opposite a zero line
engraved on the side of the platform.
6. Each specimen is tested four times, at each end and again with the strip turned over.
7. In this way three samples are tested.
8. Finally mean values for the bending length in warp and weft directions can be calculated.
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 41
(1) (2)
SAMPLES
SAMPLE RESULT
STIFFNESS TESTER
SAMPLE (1)
Warp = 3.3
SAMPLE (2)
Weft = 3.2
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 42
PILLING TESTER
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 43
11. PILLING TESTER
Introduction:
Pilling is a condition that arises in wear due to the formation of little 'pills' of entangled fibre
clinging to the fabric surface giving it an unsightly appearance. Pills are formed by a rubbing
action on loose fibres which are present on the fabric surface. Pilling was originally a fault
found mainly in knitted woolen goods made from soft twisted yarns. The introduction of man-
made fibres into clothing has aggravated its seriousness. The explanation for this is that these
fibres are stronger than wool so that the pills remain attached to the fabric surface rather
than breaking away as would be the case with wool.
The initial effect of abrasion on the surface of a fabric is the formation of fuzz as the result of
two processes, the brushing up of free fibre ends not enclosed within the yarn structure and
the conversion of fibre loops into free fibre ends by the pulling out of one of the two ends of
the loop. Gintis and Mead consider that the fuzz formation must reach a critical height, which
is dependent on fibre characteristics, before pill formation can occur.
Pilling on Clothes
Pilling is formation of little balls of fibers (pills) on the surface of a fabric which is caused by
abrasion in wear. Pilling is the tendency of fibers to come loose from a fabric surface and form
balled particles of fiber.
Causes of Pilling:
1. Due to wear and abrasion.
2. Due to rubbing action of fabric with particular parts of garments and body.
3. Due to soft twisted yarn.
4. Due to excess short fibres.
5. Due to migration of fibres from constituent yarn in fabric.
6. Due to protruding fibre / yarn hairiness.
7. Due to heat in case of thermoplastic fibres.
Reduction OR Minimizing pilling:
1. By using high twisted yarn.
2. By brushing and cropping of the fabric surface to remove loose fibre ends.
3. By using singeing process to reduce yarn hairiness, longer fibres.
4. By using anti pilling technique.
5. By special chemical treatment such as adhesive, anti-rubbing agent.
6. By reducing migration of fibres by means of Air Jet spinning process.
7. By increasing inter-fibre friction.
8. By increasing linear density of the fibre.
9. By using a high number of threads per unit length.
11. PILLING TESTER
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 44
Testing
Sample collection: Random sampling
Sample size: 40cm full width fabric
Apparatus Used: Pilling tester, scissors, stitching M|C, sample
mounting Device.
· Metal plates 4 inch diameter and 1 inch thick
· Standard for assessing the pilling grade
Purpose and Scope: This method is intended for the determination of the
resistance of textiles of all kinds in all forms to the action of an applied resistive
force. This causes pilling in the tested fabrics.
Standard:
Pilling Standard: 3-4 gray scale matching
Pilling on Clothes fabric material
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 45
For ICI method
1) Spread the fabric evenly on the table and cut 2 specimen 1 each of the face side and
back
Side by using the template cut the sample in weft direction.
2) Give proper identification marks for face and back fabric.
3) Mark the stitching line on the each specimen.
4) Fold the specimen and stitch the folded end on the marked line.
5) Turn the sample inside out.
6) Mount the sample on the cylindrical rubber tubes.
7) Fasten the edges of the sample to the rubber tube edge using cellophane tape.
8) Put the 4 samples (1 each of face side & 1 each of back side) in the cork lined pilling
box.
9) Pre set the pilling tester for 18,000 rotation and start the pilling tester.
10) After predetermined rotation, remove the specimens and assess the pilling resistance
by
Appearance of the specimen surface and give the grading.
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 46
For Martindale method
1) Prepared sample face side & back side in square form (12.5*12.5) similarly prepared
sample in circle form for mounting in sampler holder.
2) Place face side & back side sample on std. felt fabric.
3) Mount sample in test specimen holder face side and back side followed by a foam of
circle than tight metal & fix, it in machine. In respect of face & back to back.
4) Start m/c for 1000 rubs.
5) Remove sample from machine & insert in pilling assessment cabinet match result
with STD photograph (SM50)
6) Report test result as rating from photograpgh.
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 47
SAMPLES
Sample no. 1
Sr. Face Back
Class 2 2
Civil Quality
Sample no. 1
Sr. Face Back
Class 1 1
Domestic Quality
FACE
BACK
FACE
BACK
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 48
TEARING STRENGTH
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 49
12. TEARING TESTER
Introduction:
This test method covers the measurement of the tearing strength of textile fabrics by the
tongue (single rip) procedure using a CRE-type tensile testing machine. This test measures
peak force, tearing force, and tearing strength.
How This Test Works:
Rectangular specimens are place into the CRE tester. One side of the cut end is clamped into
the upper jaw and the other is clamped into the lower jaw. The jaws move apart at a constant
rate until the fabric begins to tear. Depending on the nature of the specimen, the tearing force
will be shown as a peak or a series of peaks. The highest peaks appear to reflect the strength
of the yarns, fiber bonds, or fiber interlocks (individually or in combination) needed to
continue a tear.
Measurement of fabric tearing strength:
a. Single rip tear test / Tongue tear test:
1. Tail ‘A’ is clamped in lower jaw and ‘B’ in upper jaw.
2. Speed 50mm/min or 300mm/min.
3. The separation of jaws causes the tear to proceed through uncut part.
4. Averages of the five highest peaks are taken as tear strength.
5. Depending on the directing of testing, the tear strength of warp or
weft yarns are report
b. Double rip tear test:
1. The central one is gripped in one jaw and outer two is other jaw.
2. Two tears are simultaneously made so it is known as double rip.
12. TEARING TESTER
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 50
c. Wing rip tear test:
 It does not transfer the direction of tear. In other methods, due to
wide difference in tear strength of warp and weft the direction of tear
changes from high to low.
 During the test, the point of tearing remains substantially in line with
the Centre of the grips.
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 51
 Not suitable for loosely constructed fabrics, (fail by slippage of yarns
rather than by rupture of thread).
 Tested at CRE m/c with 100mm/min speed.
 Highest peak or mean of five peaks are taken.
d. Elmendorf tear tester:
 Pendulum type ballistic tester which measures energy loss (gf)
during tearing.
 Energy loss = tearing force x distance
 Loss of potential energy = work done.
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 52
Testing
Apparatus Used: Tearing strength Tester
Tearing Strength (Kgf.) = Reading x 64/1000
 This test is used mainly in woven fabrics because the test is
unidirectional and woven fabrics have unidirectional yarns.
• A number of tear strength test is carried out and the average is
taken to determine the tear strength.
• Tearing strength is expressed either in pounds or grams.
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 53
(WARP) BEFORE TESTING (WEFT)
(WARP) AFTER TESTING (WEFT)
Warp tearing strength = 75.1 X 64 / 1000 Weft tearing strength = 35.6 X 64 / 1000
= 4.8064 = 2.2784
SAMPLES
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 54
COLOUR FASTNESS
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 55
13. COLOUR FASTNESS
Introduction:
Color fatness to washing means, a specimen of the textile, in contact with one or two
specified adjacent fabrics, is mechanically agitated under described conditions of
time and temperature in a soap solution, then rinsed and dried. The change in color
of the specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabric are assessed with the grey
scales.
Test Titles:

 Color Fastness to Domestic and Commercial Laundering (ISO 105 C06)
 Color Fastness to Domestic and Commercial Laundering using a non-
phosphate Reference detergent incorporating a low temperature bleach
activator (ISO 105 C08)
 Color Fastness to Domestic and Commercial Laundering-Oxidative bleach
response Using a non-phosphate reference detergent incorporating a low
temperature beach Activator (ISO 105 C09)
 Colourfastness to Laundering, Home & Commercial: Accelerated. (AATCC 61)
Color fastness to washing is the common quality parameter, which is considered very
important from the point of view of consumers. This test determines the loss & change of
colour in the washing process by a consumer and the possible staining of other garments or
lighter portion that may be washed with it. This test is used to predict the performance of any
dyed or printed textile product to the common washing process using a detergent and
additives. Some of the test conditions in ISO and all the AATCC conditions are designed to
simulate the behaviour of the textile after 5 domestic or commercial launderings.
In my personal experience, in case of fastness test color fastness to washing is the first and
most important requirements of buyers. There are a number of ISO test for color fastness to
washing.
These are:
1. ISO test no-1 4. ISO test no-4
2. ISO test no-2 5. ISO test no-5
3. ISO test no-3 6. ISO 105 C06
 ISO 105 C06 A2S
 ISO 105 C06 B2S
 ISO 105 C06 C2S
13. COLOUR FASTNESS
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 56
Among them ISO 105 C06 is the first choice of maximum buyers.
Now I will discuss about those fastness test.
SDC DW Multifibre Fabric
Working Procedure:
Collecting the sample from bulk and then conditioning for 04.30 to 06 hours
↓
Making a specimen of 04 cm*10 cm in size.
↓
Sewing the specimen with multi-fibre fabric of same size at one corner.
↓
Making the solution of 4gm/litre ECE detergent & 1 gm/litre sodium perborate, (If required SKFL use
0.15 gm/litre TAED).
↓
Putting the specimen with multi-fibre fabric into the solution in Rotawash m/c
Prog.: C2S Temp.: 60OC/ 40OC Time: 30 min Still ball: 25 pcs
↓
Rinsing with hot water respectively.
↓
Squeezing with cold water of the sample is done (Hand Wash).
↓
Then drying is done at a temperature in the air not exceeding 60OC
↓
The stitching is then broken out except on one of the shorter end.
↓
Measuring the staining and color change by grey scale & make a test report.
ISO 105 C06:
Instruments:
1. Rotawash / Gyrowash,
2. Stainless Still Ball,
3. Multi-fiber fabric,
4. Grey scale,
5. Sewing machine,
6. Thermometer,
7. Color matching cabinet
Recipe:
Sodium Perborate…………..1 gm/litre
ECE Phosphate……………..4 gm/litre
Sample Preparation:
Sample Fabric………….10 cm*4 cm
Multi fiber fabric…………10 cm*4 cm
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 57
Testing
Apparatus Used: Wash fastness tester, measuring jar, balance.
TESTING PROCEDURE:
1. Cut the specimen to the size of 10 X 4 cm.
2. Cut the std. covering fabric to the same size, standard covering fabric is
selected as given in the doc. No. LAB-W-003.
3. Stitch all the 4 slides by sandwiching the test specimen between the STD
covering fabric.
TESTING:
1. Take soap solution in the ratio of 1:50 ( For 1 gm of material 50 ml of soap solution )
In the pots of wash fastness tester.
2. Set the wash fastness tester to 60⁰ C.
3. Then introduce the weighed previously prepared specimen in the pots.
4. Start the machine and run it of 30 min.
5. After 30 min. take out the specimen and wash with water, then dry in the air oven at
temp. of 50⁰ C.
6. Take out the soap solution from the wash fastness tester and compare the same
with fresh soap solution and observe for colour beading.
7. Compare the tested specimen with fresh sample and observe the colour fastness to
washing with the help of grey scale.
8. Observe for colour staining on the std. covering cloth.
For ISO 105 C06 B2S:
1. Total solution (changeable) 150 ml
2. Stainless Still Ball…………25 (for hitting)
3. Time………………………40 min
4. Temperature………………500
C
Everything is same.
For ISO 105 C06 C2S:
2. Stainless Still Ball…………25 (for hitting)
3. Time………………………40 min
4. Temperature………………600
C
Everything is same.
For ISO 105 C06 A2S:
2. Stainless Still Ball………10 (for hitting)
3. Time……………………40 min
4. Temperature……………400
C
Everything is same.
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 58
SAMPLES
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 59
MOISTURE MANAGEMENT
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 60
14. MOISTURE MANAGEMENT
Introduction:
In general, „moisture management “is understood to be the ability of a textile to absorb
gaseous or liquid humidity from the skin, to transport it from the inside of a textile to the
outer surface and to release it into the surrounding air.
To evaluate the „moisture management “of a textile one has to know about both the basic
temperature regulation of the human body, and about the properties of the textile required
by this regulation.
Temperature regulation of the human body
The human body has different ways of trying to maintain its temperature. For example, in a
cold environment, blood circulation in the arms and legs is reduced, in order to minimize heat
exchange with the surrounding atmosphere. If the body warms up, the blood circulation
increases in an attempt to release surplus heat, and we start to sweat.
During perspiration water (containing salt and other substances) is transmitted through the
pores of the skin, from which it then evaporates. Through the cold which is generated during
evaporation, the warmth surplus is consumed – in this way the body cools down again, and
its temperature is re-adjusted.
Function and problems of clothing
Clothing is supposed to protect humans – in accordance with their environment - from
cold, heat, wind and weather. If possible, it should fulfil this function without inhibiting
the evaporation of humidity caused by perspiration (good moisture management), and
thus not interfering with the temperature regulation of the body.
When we start to sweat, our body humidity is more or less absorbed by the textile we
are wearing. If the humidity remains in the fabric and is not transported to the surface
for evaporation, cooling cannot occur. The body warms up and even more sweat is
produced.
After its exercise, the body cools down and sweating ceases. However, any humidity
retained in the clothing evaporates after a while, even if the body does not need to be
cooled any more. Then we start to freeze.
Goals of optimized sportswear
In consequence of the described problems in temperature regulation, our goal in the
development of optimized sportswear is
 to make the skin feel dry
 to transport humidity to the outer surface as fast as possible
 to evaporate the humidity as quickly as possible
14. MOISTURE MANAGEMENT
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 61
DIFFERENT CONCEPTS
The term „moisture management “is often used as an advertising slogan. However, ideas
differ among textile manufacturers as to how to achieve an optimized moisture management.
In order to bring about the different effects, a suitable fibre material is used or a subsequent
finishing is applied. It is also possible to combine specialized fibres and finishings.
 Hydrophobic textiles
 Hydrophilic textiles
 Combinations of inner hydrophobic and outer hydrophilic layers
 Micro fibres,
 Special fibres
Testing
• Drying time
• Evaporation
• Absorbency
• Wicking test
 WATER DROPLET (Test method)
• A droplet of water is placed on flat fabric (face up).
• The time taken for the droplet to completely penetrate into the fabric is
recorded up to a maximum of 60 seconds.
 WICKING (Test method)
• Vertically suspend fabric samples so that
bottom is just touching water surface.
• Measure the distance travelled by the
water during a set period of time.
• Measure performance in both warp and weft
direction.
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 62
 SPREADING (Test method)
• Very simple to carry out.
• Apply 1 ml of water and measure the maximum diameter of spread after
1 minute.
 ABSORPTION (Test method)
• Circle of fabric 10 cm in
diameter
• Place on to the surface
of water in a beaker for
• 10 seconds then
accurately weigh the pick
up of water.
 DRYING TIME (Test method)
• Fabric samples are wet out
completely, hydro-extracted
and weighed accurately.
• Samples then hung vertically
and weighed every five minutes
until a constant weight is
reached this is the drying time.
 EVAPORATION (Test method)
Circle of fabric laid flat in the
bottom of a petry dish.
Weigh dish and sample before
adding 1 ml of water, reweigh and
record change in weight over 30minutes.
Calculate % water evaporated and
actual weight of water evaporated
to give graphic representation.
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 63
Drying time = 59 sec.
Water droplet SAMPLES
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 64
CREASE RECOVERY
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 65
15. CREASE RECOVERY
Introduction:
Crease is a fold in fabric introduced unintentionally at some stages of processing.
Crease or crushing of textile material is a complex effect involving tensile,
compressive, flexing and torsional stresses. Crease recovery is a fabric property which
indicates the ability of fabric to go back to its original position after creasing.
What is crease?
Crease is a fold in fabric introduced unintentionally at some stages of processing. Crease of
textile material is a complex effect involving tensile, compressive, flexing and torsional
stresses
What is crease recovery?
Crease recovery is a fabric property which indicates the ability of fabric to go back to its
Original position after creasing.
Theory:
Crease recovery is a measure of creases resistance, specified quantitatively in terms of crease
recovery angle. To measure this, the popular instrument is Shirley crease recovery tester. The
instrument consists of a circular dial which carries the clamp for holding the specimen.
Directly under the centre of the dial there is a knife edge and an index line for measuring the
recovery angle. Crease recovery is determined depending upon this recovery angle. If the
angle is 0o then recovery is zero and if the angle is 180o then recovery is full. Crease recovery
depends on the construction, twist of yarn, pressure, time etc. Usually crease recovery is more
in warp way than in weft way. This is because warp yarns are well in quality, strength, treated
with sizing, kept in more tension during weaving etc.
15. CREASE RECOVERY
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 66
Testing
Apparatus:
1. Crease recovery tester
2. Scissor
3. Glass plates
4. Steel plates
5. Weight.
Sample:
 Cotton woven fabric.
 Size: 4.4 X 1.5cm.
Atmosphere:
 Temperature – 25oC and relative humidity – 67%
 Standard atmosphere: temperature – 20oC and relative humidity - 65%.
M/c specification:
 Name: Wrinkle Recovery Tester
 Brand: TAIEI KAGAKU FEIKI Ltd., Japan
 Scale: 0o-180o.
Procedure:
1. The specimen is cut by template and carefully creased by folding in half.
2. The crease is imparted on fabric by placing it between two glass plates and adding to
500gm weight on it.
3. After 1 min the weight is removed and the creased fabric is clamped on the instrument.
4. Then it is allowed to recover from the crease. The recovery time may vary to suit
particular creases. Usually it is 1 min.
5. When crease recovers the dial of the instrument is rotated to keep the free edge of the
specimen in line with the knife edge.
6. The recovery angle is read from the engraved scale.
7. In this way 10 tests are done in warp way and 10 for weft way.
8. The mean value of recovery angle is taken and thus crease recovery is measured.
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 67
WARP WEFT WARP WEFT
1. Crease recovery angle in warp way is 49
2. Crease recovery angle in weft way is 67.5
S/n
Warp Weft
Recovery
angle Average
Recovery
angle Average
1 48
49
75
67.52 50 60
SAMPLES
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 68
CONCLUSION
File
N
otC
opy

P a g e 69
CONCLUSION
Testing and quality control is the essential thing in textile without which we
cannot give the performance assurance of textile product.
Though it helps to assure performance, it is necessary to do the testing and
control of quality very carefully and required skilled workers.
So that quality of a manufactured textile product can meet the standard
norms and satisfy the customer’s need
Quality is a relative term. It means customer needs is to be satisfied. Quality is
of prime importance in any aspect of business. Customers demand and expect
value for money. As producers of apparel there must be a constant endeavor to
produce work of good quality. To assess the quality of textile product Textile
Testing is very important work or process. Testing In response to ever-changing
governmental regulations and the ever-increasing consumer demand for high
quality, soft lines testing and textile testing help to minimize risk and protect the
interest of both manufacturers and consumers. It is important that testing is not
undertaken without adding some benefit to the final product. There are a
number of points in the production cycle where testing may be carried out to
improve the product or to prevent sub-standard merchandise progressing
further in the cycle. So various Steps of Textile & Garments manufacturing
where in-process Testing, inspection and quality control are done to avoid
reproduction, reprocessing and minimize wastage
Finally, this Project is a compilation of research works on fabric
testing by experienced researchers worldwide. I sincerely feel that a
complete project on fabric testing of this scope will help all those involved
in the fabric.
File
N
otC
opy

Reference
http://cstri.res.in/?page_id=20
https://www.google.co.in/search?q=fabric+testing+notes+in+pdf&oq=fabric+testing+notes+in+pdf&aqs
=chrome..69i57j0.30176j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
https://textilestudycenter.com/textile-books-free-donwload/
http://textilelearner.blogspot.in/2012/09/textile-testing-quality-control-ttqc.html
http://nptel.ac.in/courses/116102029/61
http://nptel.ac.in/downloads/116102029/nptel.ac.in/downloads/116102029/
http://textilelearner.blogspot.in/2013/01/color-fastness-to-wash-iso-105-c06.html
https://textilelearner.blogspot.in/2012/02/determination-of-fabric-crease-recovery.html
http://textilelearner.blogspot.in/2011/08/color-fastness-to-rubbing-rubbing_1201.html
http://textilelearner.blogspot.in/2012/05/gsm-cutter-working-procedure-of-gsm.html
http://textilelearner.blogspot.in/2012/02/determination-of-gsm-gram-per-square.html
http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/7497/moisture-management-of-textiles
https://sdlatlas.com/products/mmt-moisture-management-tester#product-video
https://textilelearner.blogspot.in/2015/12/pilling-on-clothes-causes-and-reduction.html
http://textilelearner.blogspot.in/2012/02/fabric-stiffness-testing-determination.html
https://textilelearner.blogspot.in/2012/04/fabric-thickness-tester-working.html
http://nptel.ac.in/courses/116102029/45
http://textilelearner.blogspot.in/2012/02/what-is-pilling-formation-on-fabric.html
https://app.box.com/folder/0/search?query=%5Bembeddoc+url%3D%E2%80%9Dhttps%3A%2F%2Fapp.
box.com%2Fs%2Fnlhif0m8jjhmkjtyo45fd2mz06lnuccv%E2%80%9D+download%3D%E2%80%9Dall%E2%
80%9D+viewer%3D%E2%80%9Dbox%E2%80%9D+boxtheme%3D%E2%80%9Ddark%E2%80%9D%5D&ty
pes=&updatedTime=&owners=&itemSize=0&updatedTimeFrom=&updatedTimeTo=&tags=&resinSessio
nID=2c250bb159d7a648ab81f9
File
N
otC
opy

textile testing in fabric rizwan

Recommended

Recommended

More Related Content

What's hot

What's hot (20)

Similar to textile testing in fabric rizwan

Similar to textile testing in fabric rizwan (20)

More from Multi Addiction

More from Multi Addiction (13)

Recently uploaded

Recently uploaded (20)

textile testing in fabric rizwan