At FashionTT's Fashion UPGRADE! Workshop, Violet Davis-Maurice provided great insight into creating garments that meet local and international standards.
2. International and local standards
provide the specifications and test
methods for the physical, mechanical,
and chemical properties of textiles, and
the sewn products and clothing made
from these textiles
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3. The textiles covered by these standards are
commonly formed by weaving or knitting and
the yarns/threads used are also covered by
standards
Where no local standard applies a
manufacturer attempting to export to a
regional or extra regional market must
comply with the requirements of the
standards that apply in the particular market
they are planning to access.
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4. These textile standards help fabric and
clothing and sewn products designers and
manufacturers in testing textiles to ensure
acceptable characteristics for appropriate
end-use.
The standards and specifications are the
criteria to ensure conformity and acceptability
in the contract between buyer and seller.
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5. Element Performance Criteria
Select Sample of Textile Sample of material/product
appropriate is confirmed
Acceptance criteria and end use
for testing of sample is
determined/confirmed
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6. ELEMENT PERFORMANCE CRITERIA
Interpret design brief Requirements of design are
interpreted
Purposes of textile product and
end user are identified
Additional Factors are determined
and applied
Materials for use in design are
determined
Design specifications are
confirmed
Initial design concepts are
interpreted from brief
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7. Garment specifications provide the numerical data and
construction instructions needed to make a garment.
Primary use of this data occurs during the flat pattern and
garment construction stages of the sample garment.
The manufacturer will need to have fabric specs and design
specs.
The design specs may include the size specs, especially since in
some designs the sizes of component parts will vary depending
on the size of the garment.
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8. The term "size spec" is short for "size
specifications".
The size spec document is occasionally
referenced to as a spec sheet/s.
This document or file is basically a guide for
the manufacturers to follow for garment
measurements and sewing techniques.
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9. The file contains garment manufacturing
specifications that help the factory produce
the garment in accordance with the buyers
requirement.
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10. The specifications are intended as a list of
instructions for a garment factory to
following in order to maintain consistency
during the bulk production of clothing and/or
fabric accessories
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11. The size spec files may also contain
information regarding the garments trim
requirements.
The spec sheet will indicate the button sizes,
twill tape lengths, zippers, waistband widths,
draw cord length etc.
Size specs, may also contain a design sketch
to help the factory view a complete rendering
of the intended garment.
The file may also include brand label and care
label requirements for the product.
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12. The size spec document includes points of
measurement as well as detailed sewing
instructions.
For example, the spec file may include a hem
measurement as well as indicate the stitching
to utilize on the hem. For example, 1" hem,
1/14" cover stitch. This instructs the factory
how to create the hem of the garment or
article.
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13. The spec sheets help assure a consistent
garment fit. A well developed spec package
may include a “how to measure” guide.
If it is not included on the spec sheet a
separate document providing clear indication
of how to manage the point of measure is
included
The "how to measure" guide is intended to
ensure that the same methods is utilized for
all measurement.
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14. Bust / Chest - Lay the garment flat and measure the garment straight
across one inch below the armhole. (note: it is important to indicate
location below the armhole or from another point so that the person
taking the measurement has a specific starting point).
Waist - Relax or extended measure from side to side along the center of
the waistband or waist seam. For extended measurements - measure as
above with elastic or knit fully extended.
Inseam - lay one entire leg flat measure from the top of the garment to
the bottom of the leg following the side seam.
All measurements should be taken with a plastic or fabric tape
measure. Generally all measurements are to be taken with the garment
laid on a flat surface with all wrinkles gently smoothed
out. Measurements should be taken with zippers or buttons fully closed
unless otherwise stated
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15. Front Length (From HPS)
Front Length (Nape to Hem)
Neck Width (Edge to Edge)
Chest / Bust (1" Below Armhole)
Across Shoulder Across Front 6" From HPS
Across Back 6" From HPS
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17. Fibre Content 60% Polyester 40% Wool
Weight 260±5 gm²(min)
Fabric Count 60x60
Bursting Strength 267N (60 lbf) min
Pilling Resistance 4-5 (min)
Abrasion Resistance 4-5 (min)
Dimensional Stability (each
direction)
Pressing and Finishing
After 5 washes
3% max shrinkage
3% max growth
Colourfastness
Laundering
Colour Change
Staining
Class 4 minimum
Crocking
Dry
Wet
Class 3- 4 min
Perspiration
Colour Change
Staining
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18. Testing techniques are selected appropriate to
analysing sample, acceptance criteria and end use
Relevant test equipment is set up and calibration
confirmed
Perform preliminary testing and analysis
Product is tested using selected testing methods, in
accordance with industry and enterprise standards
Results are analysed and interpreted and report
prepared
Results are checked against original specifications of
material/product
Acceptance criteria determined
Decision for acceptance made
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