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The Importance of Standards Innovation & Entrepreneurship in the Fashion Industry Presented by Christopher Nathan

Christopher Nathan talks about entrepreneurship and innovation in the local fashion industry.

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The Importance of Standards
Innovation & Entrepreneurship in
the Fashion Industry
Presented by Christopher Nathan
The Importance of Standards Innovation & Entrepreneurship in the Fashion Industry Presented by Christopher Nathan
Vision Fashion 2020 was coined in 2005 as part of the
CVI Fashion Industry Development proposal which
was presented to the Ministry of Trade & Industry.
Vision Fashion has three overarching Goals:
 To Establish Port-of-Spain as the region’s fashion
capital by the year 2020
 To develop the Caribbean into a respected, reputable
global fashion centre
 To establish a successful Caribbean Fashion Brand
Given the possibility that automation can replace labour
throughout production processes in the global fashion and
garment manufacturing industry
Will Trinidad &Tobago be ready to enjoy these cost & process
efficiencies and be able to manufacture high quality fashion
products at competitive levels? Or are we forced to focus on
small scale customized niche markets only and outsource all
large orders to foreign garment manufacturers in Colombia,
China, Turkey, the D.R. and other high technology
manufacturing zones?
Christopher Anthony Nathan
Chairman TTBS Specifications Committee for Garment Quality/
Fashion Education & Industry Management Consultant
Trinidad & Tobago enjoys many competitive
advantages in the region:
 Strategic Location: Gateway to the Americas
 Affordable Energy
 Long Distinguished reputation as a garment
manufacturing centre. Circa 1920
 Vast creative pool
 Skillful Craftsmanship
 Tech-savvy highly educated population
The Importance of Standards Innovation & Entrepreneurship in the Fashion Industry Presented by Christopher Nathan

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The Importance of Standards Innovation & Entrepreneurship in the Fashion Industry Presented by Christopher Nathan

  • 1. The Importance of Standards Innovation & Entrepreneurship in the Fashion Industry Presented by Christopher Nathan
  • 3. Vision Fashion 2020 was coined in 2005 as part of the CVI Fashion Industry Development proposal which was presented to the Ministry of Trade & Industry. Vision Fashion has three overarching Goals:  To Establish Port-of-Spain as the region’s fashion capital by the year 2020  To develop the Caribbean into a respected, reputable global fashion centre  To establish a successful Caribbean Fashion Brand
  • 4. Given the possibility that automation can replace labour throughout production processes in the global fashion and garment manufacturing industry Will Trinidad &Tobago be ready to enjoy these cost & process efficiencies and be able to manufacture high quality fashion products at competitive levels? Or are we forced to focus on small scale customized niche markets only and outsource all large orders to foreign garment manufacturers in Colombia, China, Turkey, the D.R. and other high technology manufacturing zones? Christopher Anthony Nathan Chairman TTBS Specifications Committee for Garment Quality/ Fashion Education & Industry Management Consultant
  • 5. Trinidad & Tobago enjoys many competitive advantages in the region:  Strategic Location: Gateway to the Americas  Affordable Energy  Long Distinguished reputation as a garment manufacturing centre. Circa 1920  Vast creative pool  Skillful Craftsmanship  Tech-savvy highly educated population
  • 7.  A Standard is a document that provides requirements, specifications, guideline and characteristics that can be used by organizations and individuals consistently to ensure that materials (inputs) finished products(outputs) production processes and services are fit for their purpose  The development of Trinidad & Tobago National Standards is based on internationally accepted guidelines and criteria; to date over 500 national standards have been declared. The TTBS is a member of the International Organization for Standardization ISO  The Geneva based organization is the world’s largest developer of voluntary international standard, founded in 1947 ISO has published over 19 000 international standards covering various aspects of technology, innovation and business activities over a wide range of industries.
  • 8. Adopting national and ISO int’l standards assures consumers that an organization’s products are  Safe  Reliable  Durable  Up to date  Of good quality  Kind to the environment
  • 9.  The revised standard will aid in the Standardization of manufacturing processes in T&T’s fashion sector  Make sure you buy a copy of the TTS 625: 2013 Standard and adopt its guidelines into your label’s operations
  • 10.  The specifications committee is now exploring the feasibility of establishing a National Sizing Standard for Trinidad & Tobago which we hope will be adopted by other Caribbean nations who have fashion industry agendas  In time to come this Sizing Standard will assist T&T apparel manufacturers to penetrate regional markets in the West Indies Central and South America
  • 11.  The National Training Agency has as part of its mandate the responsibility to develop national occupational standards of competence for various occupations in T&T  The Occupational Standard specifies what a person should know and do in order to carry out the functions of a particular job effectively
  • 12.  The National Training Agency NTA established a Lead Body in January to design an Occupational Standard for the award of a CVQ Level 2 qualification in Garment Construction  This CVQ will allow holders to work in any Caricom country in the Caribbean region
  • 14.  A World Economic Forum reports that many industry observers predict that this 4th industrial revolution (the digital era) will be centred upon developments in previously disjointed fields such as artificial intelligence AI and machine learning / Nanotechnology - 3D printing and robotics  Genetics and biotechnology are all building on and amplifying one another  Smart systems in homes, factories, farms and entire cities will help tackle problems ranging from supply chain management to climate change and ultimately affect the way we live  Gone are the days too when fashion designers would spend days creating fashion designs on sketch pads; recent innovations by Corel Draw and Adobe Photoshop/Illustrator now enable designers to create full fashion collections using CAD systems; then seamlessly print 3D versions with true colour representation for presentation to clients
  • 15. The high-technology based manufacturing wave, which is expected to span the 4th industrial revolution (2020- 2039) is fast approaching For the past 65 yrs T&T’s economy has experienced 20 year industrial development cycles:  1950s – Petroleum  1970s - Petro-chemical Birth of Pt Lisas Industrial  1990s Gas fueled by Atlantic LNG’s establishment  2020 + High Technology Manufacturing Sector (Robotics / Automated Manufacturing / Nanotechnology and Ai will revolutionize production processes)
  • 16. 4th Industrial Revolution (your customers)  Baby Boomers Born 1944 - 1963  Generation X Born 1964 - 1980  Generation Y Born 1981 - 2002  Generation Z Born from 2003 + The Digital Babies require most focus from fashion brands as they will be very hard to please. They want individuality; they demand quality products at affordable prices and lots of variety to choose from. They are tech-savvy and aware of trends in fashion capitals
  • 17.  Gen Z is the first generation for whom digital technology is a way of life; unlike Gen Y who used technology as a medium for communication and entertainment  Innovations in digital technology allows Gen Z to enjoy radical improvements in high technology design, manufacture and communications  A fashion business can now be one person and a computer / mobile device  Content for fashion businesses can be curated instantly e.g fashion blogging & eCommerce
  • 18. As the government tries to diversify Trinidad & Tobago’s economy, fashion has been identified for development:  There is a great difference between a cottage fashion industry which currently exists in Trinidad & Tobago and an industrial fashion sector  An industrial sector must be globally competitive in terms of manufacturing processes, cost efficiencies and the quality of the products created, particularly fashion products for export  Fashion Stakeholders need to pay close attention to the cutting edge and emerging technologies taking place in the manufacturing sector and get on board the digital train before we are left behind
  • 20.  Improvements in fashion design and textiles technology particularly 3D printing have impacted product development in the fashion sector  fabric designs can now be replicated in commercial yardage with the right 3D printing machines and qualified surface treatment technicians ; however they must be versed in CAD systems in order to create fabrics in large quantities for the local fashion industry SMART FABRICS Recent Innovations in the Textiles Sector Nanotextiles Electrotextiles Geotextiles
  • 22.  Innovation may not always be applied to creating new products; many amazing innovations in manufacturing processes have taken place in recent years  Fashion designers may now choose between Corel Draw, Adobe Photoshop and Illustrator software to create fashion products  CAD systems allow these sketches to be transformed into technical illustrations and Optitex Systems for CAD Pattern Design will produce accurate pattern drafts for Specification Packages/Spec Packs which can be E-mailed to your manufacturer anywhere on the planet.
  • 24.  The use of computer software in apparel production has opened up remarkable opportunities for innovative design, improved productivity and greater efficiency for small fashion business manufacturing  Optitex Pattern Design Software allows designers to digitize existing flat patterns and merge the pattern design data with their company’s operations management computer system
  • 25.  Optitex Systems for Pattern Design allows fashion to get to market faster, at less cost with an efficient pattern making suite that optimizes pattern drafting at every step of the product development cycle  It eliminates hundreds of manual steps in the design process  Simplify Pattern Grading with Optitex Grading Module. This allows users to adjust pattern sizes to fit the entire range of company products including complex size variations and shapes
  • 27.  To design garments and ergonomic products you need to know the anatomy of people you’re producing for  Through a deep anthropometric survey in various regions and markets on men, women and children CAD Modelling Ergonomics singled out a range of recurring Body Shapes and the Theory of Body-Shape was developed (Copyright © SIAE n° 9401846) Body Scanning technology provides an automated, anthropometric data collection system that eliminates manual intervention. From the results of automated landmarking 104 anthropometric data can be obtained. Through just 4 seconds scanning it assures precision and accuracy, providing useful data that can be used for several applications such as Semi-automated garment production
  • 28.  Client meets with designer  Based on the Brief a fashion sketch is done via CAD systems  Design is rendered (Colour / Textures / Closures / Notions and embellishments are added)  Client is scanned for measurements (Cyberware Scanner)  Body-Scan data is fed to Optitex program for a pattern draft  Laser Cutter is used to Measure – Lay up and Cut garment components  Sewists assemble garment components  Garment is fitted on Robotic Dress Form (Sized for Client)  Garment is adjusted, finished, labeled and packaged for delivery
  • 30. What is Quality???  Quality is the characteristics of a product that impact on its ability to satisfy consumer needs, wants and desires  There are many other definitions of Quality: Fitness for Use / Degree of Excellence / Exceeding Customer Expectation / Conforming to Requirements / Measurement of Satisfaction
  • 31. There are three main quality functions  Quality Assurance: This is a planned, systematic, ongoing monitoring system that provides assurances to users  Quality Control: A regulatory process through which actual quality performance is measured and compared with an established standard. Any disparity is auctioned to regulate quality  Inspection: An appraisal activity that compares product and processes with applicable standards. In a Total Quality Management organization everyone takes responsibility for inspection and the best inspection takes place at the source when the output is being made in order to correct defects in a timely manner before more inputs are applied to the product’s development. The Result – Zero Defects
  • 32. Quality or a lack thereof directly affects the profitability of all businesses  Modern customers demand high quality products and services, on time and at affordable prices. They also want new product introduction frequently  Marketing professionals are charged with the responsibility of ensuring that they accurately identify customer requirements; define and interpret these needs then convey them to the relevant departments for product design and development to begin  Once customers’ requirements are clearly determined the product must be designed accordingly however the quality of design, inputs including all materials and manufacturing processes are vital for the product to be successful in the marketplace
  • 33. Sharp Fashion Management ®  A fashion management term coined by Christopher A. Nathan  It is a cutting-edge management tool for fashion businesses to gain and retain competitive advantage in the increasingly competitive fashion market  It requires Sharp businesses to become FRO fast response organizations / adopt TQM total quality management throughout their organization’s structure  All staff from the creative director / designer to the stitcher must practice quality control and implement of a Zero Defects Policy  Sharp Fashion Businesses place customers at the top of their organization’s totem pole both internal and external customers  Sharp Fashion Businesses are technology innovators not just tech users. They embrace all the opportunities the 4th Ind. Revolution brings with it
  • 35. Innovations in the Fashion Industry Recycled wedding dresses Coco Velvet Caribbean Fashion Company Ltd will introduce Bespoke Bridal in 2018. Brides will be able to sell their used bridal gowns to the company. CVCFC factory will utilize wear2 disassembly technology to recycle the bridal materials, remove closures, notions and all embellishments then remodel the gowns to suit the style aesthetic of new customers
  • 36. Problem Identification  Tons of used clothing is discarded annually around the planet; this causes major environmental challenges as cloth takes years to degrade. No reliable statistics are available for Trinidad & Tobago but it is estimated that over 1 M tons of discarded clothing end up in UK landfills every year  High cost of raw material for bridalwear production  Raw material for clothing manufacture will eventually run out on planet Earth so it’s Time to recycle
  • 37.  The wear2™ technology was developed through the SUSCORP project, a project co-funded by the UK's Technology Strategy Board. It is envisaged that wear2™ will become synonymous with sustainability in the textiles sector.  wear2™ is a new textile processing technology in the United Kingdom which allows garments to be selectively disassembled at end of life.  Incorporating wear2™ technology into clothing enables zips, buttons, fastenings, linings and other similar materials to be easily removed and recycled without damaging the surrounding fabric. By engineering durable garments that literally “fall apart” on command, wear2™ provides a unique means to recover pure fibre, reuse casual and corporate clothing or up cycle garments.  wear2™ technology is jointly owned, and is being developed by:  NIRI Ltd - R&D technical textile engineering (joint IP owner)  C-Tech Innovation Ltd – R&D process technology (joint IP owner)
  • 39.  Every bespoke suit starts life as a 2D length of superfine suiting cloth, transformed over time to fit the customer precisely to his requirements. Every suit is unique, made to the customer’s exact measurements (typically around thirty measures will be taken across the customer’s body), drafted into an individual paper pattern from which his chosen or ‘bespoken’ cloth is cut  The suit will then be handmade, with the cloth shrunken, stretched, pressed, stitched and structured into a perfectly form-fitting three-dimensional garment. Apprentice tailors can train for up to six years to be considered a specialist in but only in one area of bespoke tailoring: whether this is cutting a customer’s pattern or trouser making  A new pattern is created for each individual wearer. No modification or use of base patterns, as that could lead the tailor to miss some of the small nuances of the wearer’s body or slight changes over time. More than just measurements are needed to achieve this (what is the slope of the shoulder, the arch of the back, etc). No two bodies are the same. The skill sets of several different specialist craftsmen combine into every suit and an average of fifty man-hours, three intermediate fittings and some three months from commission to finished garment characterize the Savile Row bespoke process – a process that has changed little since the seventeenth century

Editor's Notes

  1. Caribbean fashion is at a cross-road; it has the potential to shift from a cottage based industry to a fully integrated, economically viable industrial sector the PoS Intl Fashion Centre initiative can be the paradigm shift that drives the sector into the digital age thus allowing Caribbean fashion products to compete in the global marketplace.
  2. It should be noted that the pursuit of a Caribbean aesthetic is a pie in the sky as far as I am concerned; In the past Caribbean Fashion was associated with batik and tye-dye garments. We are so much more than that, Instead we should be pursuing a Caribbean fashion brand. The brand must stand for a symbol of Quality…a mark of Distinction
  3. Industrial Revolutions: The first Industrial Revolution of 1784 was driven by developments in steam engines and it enabled the mechanisation of manufacturing processes using water and steam power; the 2nd in the 1870s was driven by Thomas Edison’s electrification of New York; mass-production was finally possible.
  4. Prior to the 1950s T&T’s economy was largely based on agriculture. Caroni was the major contributor to GDP
  5. These are your customers…
  6. No longer are designers slaving on a sketch pad to create a one-off garment to put in their shop in the hope that it would sell
  7. Cannon has a 4 Colour fabric printing machine for approx USD $58 000.
  8. Prepare a Process Flow Chart for your company and identify gaps and delays