Single Breasted Blazer Tech Pack

Spring 2013

Single Breasted Blazer
Style #1232012
- Notched lapel collar
- Front welt with flap pockets
- Princess seams on front and back
- Button closure on front and back of sleeves
Suggested Retail: $235

Claret

Wisteria
Gabardine
100% Worsted Wool

COMPETITOR RESEARCH - JACKET
SEASON: Spring 2013 DATE: Monday, January 30, 2012
GROUP NAME: Wine and Roses STYLE #: 1232012
SIZE CLASSIFICATION/ Missy / 0 - 14 TECHNICAL DESIGNER: Kara Pelletier
FABRIC NAME: Gabardine PRODUCT CATEGORY: Jackets
FIBER CONTENT: 100% Worsted Wool BRAND / LABEL: J. Crew
STYLE DESCRIPTION: Single breasted blazer with notched lapel and front flap pockets

BRAND / LABEL: J. Crew PRICE RANGE: $120 - $325
TARGET MARKET SEGMENT: Better SIZE CLASSIFICATION: Missy
COMPETING BRANDS: Tommy Hilfiger, Vince Camuto, Banana Republic
IMPORTANT TO CUSTOMER: Overall fit, Fabric Quality (mostly lined jackets), Quality garment construction (for longer wear)

PHOTO PHOTO PHOTO

BRAND / LABEL: Tommy Hilfiger BRAND / LABEL: Vince Camuto BRAND / LABEL: Banana Republic
RETAIL STORE: Macy's RETAIL STORE: Nordstrom RETAIL STORE: Banana Republic
RETAIL PRICE: $150.00 RETAIL PRICE: $165.00 RETAIL PRICE: $150.00
OTHER INFORMATION: Cotton; Lining: Polyester OTHER INFORMATION: Cotton / Spandex OTHER INFORMATION: 98% Cotton / 2% Spandex

COMPETITOR COST ANALYSIS - JACKET
SEASON: Spring 2013 DATE: 40938
SIZE CLASSIFICATION/ RANGE: Missy / 0 - 14 TECHNICAL DESIGNER: Kara Pelletier
FABRIC NAME: Gabardine PRODUCT CATEGORY: J. Crew
FIBER CONTENT: 100% Worsted Wool BRAND / LABEL: Single breasted blazer with notched lapel

BRAND / LABEL: J. Crew PRICE RANGE: $120 - $325
TARGET MARKET SEGMENT: Better SIZE CLASSIFICATION: Missy
COMPETING BRANDS: Tommy Hilfiger, Vince Camuto, Banana Republic
IMPORTANT TO CUSTOMER: Overall fit, Fabric Quality (mostly lined jackets), Quality garment construction (for longer wear)

BRAND / LABEL: Tommy Hilfiger BRAND / LABEL: Vince Camuto BRAND / LABEL: Banana Republic
RETAIL STORE: Macy's RETAIL STORE: Nordstrom RETAIL STORE: Banana Republic

RETAIL PRICE: $150.00 RETAIL PRICE: $165.00 RETAIL PRICE: $150.00
RETAIL MARKUP: 52.5% RETAIL MARKUP: 52.5% RETAIL MARKUP: 70.0%
WHOLESALE PRICE: $71.25 WHOLESALE PRICE: $78.38 WHOLESALE PRICE:
WHOLESALE MARKUP: 65% WHOLESALE MARKUP: 65% WHOLESALE MARKUP:
TOTAL COST: $24.94 TOTAL COST: $27.43 TOTAL COST: $45.00

FABRIC: $12.47 FABRIC: $13.72 FABRIC: $22.50
TRIM: $1.00 TRIM: $1.10 TRIM: $1.80
CMT / LABOR: $11.22 CMT / LABOR: $12.34 CMT / LABOR: $20.25
PACKING MATERIALS: $0.25 PACKING MATERIALS: $0.27 PACKING MATERIALS: $0.45

NOTES: NOTES: NOTES:

COST RANGE PERCENT TO TOTAL NOTES:
FABRIC: $12.47 - $22.50 50%
TRIM: $1.00 - $1.80 4%
CMT /LABOR: $11.22 - $20.25 45%
PACKING MATERIALS: $0.25 - $0.45 1%

DESIGN SHEET WITH CAD'S
SEASON: Spring 2013 DATE: Monday, March 12, 2012
SIZE CLASSIFICATION / RANGE: Missy / 0 ‐ 14 TECHNICAL DESIGNER: Kara Pelletier

MAIN FABRIC DETAILS

FABRIC NAME: Gabardine FIBER CONTENT: 100% Worsted Wool
THREAD COUNT: 112x80 COLOR APPLICATION: Piece Dye
FABRIC WEIGHT: 5.9 oz/yd² GARMENT PLACEMENT: Shell
FABRIC MILL, REF/ART # & COUNTRY: N/A

FABRIC 2 DETAILS

FABRIC NAME: Satin FIBER CONTENT: 100% Silk
THREAD COUNT: 330x120 COLOR APPLICATION: Piece Dye
FABRIC WEIGHT: 4.1 oz/yd² GARMENT PLACEMENT: Lining
FABRIC MILL, REF/ART # & COUNTRY: N/A

FABRIC & TRIM PLACEMENT ‐ FRONT

FABRIC & TRIM PLACEMENT ‐ BACK

FABRIC & TRIM PLACEMENT ‐ INSIDE

LABEL PLACEMENT & PACKAGING

ESTIMATED BILL OF MATERIALS - JACKET
SIZE CLASSIFICATION / RANGE: Missy / 0 - 14 TECHNICAL DESIGNER: #REF!
FABRIC NAME: Gabardine PRODUCT CATEGORY: #REF!
FIBER CONTENT: 100% Worsted Wool BRAND / LABEL: #REF!

SIZE / WIDTH APPROXIMATE COST
COLOR COMBO FABRIC /ITEM PLACEMENT ON GARMENT COLOR / WEIGHT QUANTITY RANGE
Claret Gabardine Self Claret TPX 19-1656 60" 1 3/4 yd $12.47 - $22.50
Satin Lining Rosé TPX 13-1906 45" 1 7/8 yd
Interfacing Collar, Placket, Facing White 20" 4 yd

Claret Buttons Center Front Claret Enamel 38L 3 4%
Buttons Back Sleeve Claret Enamel 24L 6
Brand Label Center Back 1
Care/Content Label Side Seam 1
Size Label Center Back 1
Country of Origin Label Center Back 1
Thread Allover DTM T60 160 yd

JACKET SAMPLE SPECIFICATION WORKSHEET
SIZE CLASSIFICATION / RANGE: Missy / 0 - 14 TECHNICAL DESIGNER: Kara Pelletier
POINT OF MEASUREMENT SAMPLE SKETCHES
MEASUREMENTS ARE: Flat / Inches SIZE: 8 FRONT
POM # Description Similar Sample Measurement Requested Measurement
1 Length from HPS 23 5/8 27
10 Chest Width (1" below armhole) 19 19
13 Across Shoulder 15 3/4 15 3/4
20 Waist Width (14" from HPS) 17 3/8 16 3/4
27 Bottom Opening Width 20 1/4 20
36 Sleeve Length (from top of AH) 19 25
43 Armhole Width - Curved 9 7/8 9 7/8
49 Muscle Width (1" below AH) 7 7
53 Sleeve Opening Width 5 7/8 5
Front Neck Drop (HPS to middle of top
60 button) 11 3/4 15
63 Neck Width (HPS to HPS) 7 7
156 Shoulder Slope 2 2

BACK

JACKET POM PLACEMENT SKETCH - FRONT

JACKET POM PLACEMENT SKETCH - BACK

ESTIMATED PATTERN CARD - JACKET
SEASON: Spring 2013 DATE: Monday, February 06, 2012

48 TOTAL NUMBER OF PATTERN PIECES TO CUT SKETCH
QTY PATTERN PIECE FABRIC MATCHING/NAP FRONT
2 Front 100% Worsted Wool Gabardine
2 Side Front 100% Worsted Wool Gabardine
2 Back 100% Worsted Wool Gabardine
2 Side Back 100% Worsted Wool Gabardine
2 Upper Sleeve 100% Worsted Wool Gabardine
2 Under Sleeve 100% Worsted Wool Gabardine
2 Front Facing/Lapel 100% Worsted Wool Gabardine
1 Upper Collar 100% Worsted Wool Gabardine
1 Under Collar 100% Worsted Wool Gabardine
1 Collar Stand 100% Worsted Wool Gabardine
1 Collar Stand Facing 100% Worsted Wool Gabardine
2 Pocket Flap 100% Worsted Wool Gabardine
2 Pocket Flap Facing 100% Worsted Wool Gabardine
2 Pocket Welt 100% Worsted Wool Gabardine
2 Pocket Facing 100% Worsted Wool Gabardine BACK
LINING
2 Front 100% Polyester Satin Lining
2 Side Front 100% Polyester Satin Lining
2 Back 100% Polyester Satin Lining
2 Side Back 100% Polyester Satin Lining
2 Upper Sleeve 100% Polyester Satin Lining
2 Under Sleeve 100% Polyester Satin Lining
4 Pocket Bag 100% Polyester Satin Lining
INTERFACING
2 Front Facing/Lapel Polyester
1 Upper Collar Polyester
1 Under Collar Polyester
1 Collar Stand Polyester
1 Collar Stand Facing Polyester

ESTIMATED CONSTRUCTION CALLOUTS - JACKET
TOTAL ESTIMATED COST FOR GARMENT MAKE: $16.56
LOCATION/DESCRIPTION CONSTRUCTION/SEAM FINISH/TOP STITCH SPI EST. COST SKETCH
Front Panel Make 3 Welt Buttonholes 14-16 $0.27

Front Princess Seam Join Front & Side Front with SN Lockstitch 14-16 $0.50

Set Single Welt Pocket, Pocket Flap, Pocket
Single Welt Front Pocket 14-16 $2.00
Facing and Pocket Bag
Join Pocket Flap and Flap Facing with SN
8-10 $0.60
Lockstitch
Pocket Flap
1/4" Top Stitching 8-10 $0.30

ESTIMATED COST SUBTOTAL: $3.67
Back Princess Seam Join Back & Side Back with SN Lockstitch 14-16 $0.50

Center Back Seam Join Backs with SN Lockstitch 14-16 $0.40

Sideseam Join Front & Back with SN Lockstitch 14-16 $0.50

Shoulder Seam Join Front & Back with SN Lockstitch 14-16 $0.30



Front Make Lapel Dart with SN Lockstitch 14-16 $0.20

Front Facing Make Lapel Dart with SN Lockstitch 14-16 $0.20

Join Front & Front Facing/Lapel with SN
Front 14-16 $0.50
Lockstitch
Join Upper & Under Collars with SN Lockstitch 14-16 $0.25

Join Collar Stand Facing to Upper Collar with
Collar 14-16 $0.15
SN Lockstitch
Join Collar Stand & Under Collar with SN
14-16 $0.15
Lockstitch
$1.45
ESTIMATED COST SUBTOTAL:
Set Collar to Front, Lapel and Back with SN
14-16 $0.55
Lockstitch
Collar
1/4" SN Top Stitch 8-10 $0.40

Join Upper & Under Sleeves with SN Lockstitch
Back Sleeve Seam 14-16 $0.80
and Make Vent
Front Sleeve Seam Join Upper & Under Sleeves with SN Lockstitch 14-16 $0.80

Armhole Set Sleeve to Armhole with SN Lockstitch 14-16 $0.60

Sleeve Vent Make 3 Welt Buttonholes per Sleeve 14-16 $0.54



Join Front & Front Side Linings with SN
Front Princess Seam 14-16 $0.50
Lockstitch
Join Back Linings with SN Lockstitch and Set
Center Back Seam 14-16 $0.40
Inverted Pleat at CB Seam
Back Princess Seam Join Back & Side Linings with SN Lockstitch 14-16 $0.50

Sideseam Join Front & Back Linings with SN Lockstitch 14-16 $0.50

Shoulder Seam Join Front & Back Linings with SN Lockstitch 14-16 $0.30

Join Sleeve & Back Sleeve Linings with SN
Back Sleeve Seam 14-16 $0.80
Lockstitch
Join Sleeve & Front Sleeve Linings with SN
Front Sleeve Seam 14-16 $0.80
Lockstitch
Armhole Set Sleeve Lining with SN Lockstitch 14-16 $0.60

Set Lining Set Lining to Shell 14-16 $1.20

CF Placket Attach 3 Buttons N/A $0.15

Sleeve Placket Attach 3 Buttons per Sleeve N/A $0.30


FIRST COST SHEET

FABRICS YARDS UNIT PRICE $ AMOUNT SKETCH
100% Wool Gabardine 1.75 $12.50 $21.88
100% Silk Satin 1.875 $8.95 $16.78
Interfacing 4 $0.90 $3.60

TOTAL FABRICS $42.26
PERCENT TO TOTAL COST 60.40%
TRIMS YDS / QTY UNIT PRICE $ AMOUNT
38L Button - Enamel Shank 3 $1.24 $3.72
24L Button - Enamel Shank 6 $0.83 $4.95
Brand Label 1 $0.10 $0.10
Care/Content Label 1 $0.08 $0.08
Size Label 1 $0.08 $0.08
Country of Origin Label 1 $0.05 $0.05
Thread 160 $0.00075 $0.12

TOTAL TRIMS $9.10
CMT / LABOR $ AMOUNT
Grading $0.20
Marking $0.30
Cutting $1.20
Make Charges (Labor) $16.56

TOTAL CMT/ LABOR $18.26
PACKING MATERIALS YDS / QTY UNIT PRICE $ AMOUNT
Polybag $0.10
Hanger $0.25
TOTAL COSTS $69.97 WHOLESALE PRICE N/A
TOTAL PACKING MATERIALS $0.35 WHOLESALE MARKUP N/A RETAIL MARKUP 70.0%
PERCENT TO TOTAL COST 0.50% WHOLESALE MARGIN N/A ESTIMATED RETAIL PRICE $233.22

Comparison Chart
Original Jacket: J.Crew Modified Jacket #1: J. Crew Modified Jacket #2: Style & Co.
Target Market: Better Target Market: Better Target Market: Moderate
Retail: $233.22 Wholesale: N/A Retail: $161.71 Wholesale: N/A Retail: $117.11 Wholesale: N/A

Single-breasted blazer with notched lapel and Single-breasted blazer with notched lapel and Single-breasted blazer with notched lapel and
front flap pockets, welt button holes and silk front flap pockets, fisheye button holes and front flap pockets, fisheye button holes and
satin lining. rayon satin lining. polyester satin lining.

Fabrics: Pattern Pieces: Fabrics: Pattern Pieces: Fabrics: Pattern Pieces:
100% Wool Gabardine 26 Shell Gabardine 100% Wool Gabardine 26 Shell Gabardine 100% Wool Gabardine 26 Shell Gabardine
100% Silk Satin Lining 16 Satin Lining 100% Rayon Satin Lining 16 Satin Lining 100% Poly Satin Lining 16 Satin Lining
100% Poly Interfacing 6 Interfacing 100% Poly Interfacing 6 Interfacing 100% Poly Interfacing 6 Interfacing
Trims: Construction Details:
38L Enamel Shank Buttons Fully Lined Trims: Construction Details: Trims: Construction Details:
24L Enamel Shank Buttons Princess Seams 38L Enamel Shank Buttons Fully Lined 38L 4-Hole Buttons Fully Lined
Welt Buttonholes 24L 4-Hole Buttons Princess Seams 24L 4-Hole Buttons Princess Seams
Welt Buttonholes Fisheye Buttonholes

SKETCHES SKETCHES SKETCHES

Original Jacket Brand J. Crew Modified Jacket Brand 1 J.Crew Modified Jacket Brand 2 Style & Co.
Target Market Segment Better Target Market Segment Better Target Market Segment Moderate
FABRICS YARDS UNIT PRICE $ AMOUNT REVISED FABRICS YARDS UNIT PRICE $ AMOUNT REVISED FABRICS YARDS UNIT PRICE $ AMOUNT
100% Wool Gabardine 1.75 $12.50 $21.88 100% Wool Gabardine 1.75 $8.00 $14.00 100% Wool Gabardine 1.75 $5.00 $8.75
100% Silk Satin 1.875 $8.95 $16.78 100% Rayon Satin 1.875 $3.50 $6.56 100% Polyester Satin 1.875 $1.50 $2.81
Interfacing 4 $0.90 $3.60 Interfacing 4 $0.90 $3.60 Interfacing 4 $0.90 $3.60

% TO TOTAL COST 60% TOTAL FABRICS $42.26 % TO TOTAL COST 50% TOTAL FABRICS $24.16 % TO TOTAL COST 43% TOTAL FABRICS $15.16
TRIMS YDS / QTY UNIT PRICE $ AMOUNT REVISED TRIMS YDS / QTY UNIT PRICE $ AMOUNT REVISED TRIMS YDS / QTY UNIT PRICE $ AMOUNT
38L Button - Enamel Shank 3 $1.24 $3.72 38L Button - Enamel Shank 3 $1.24 $3.72 38L Button - 4-hole 3 $0.20 $0.60
24L Button - Enamel Shank 6 $0.83 $4.95 24L Button - 4-Hole 6 $0.27 $1.59 24L Button - 4-hole 6 $0.10 $0.60
Brand Label 1 $0.10 $0.10 Brand Label 1 $0.10 $0.10 Brand Label 1 $0.10 $0.10
Care/Content Label 1 $0.08 $0.08 Care/Content Label 1 $0.08 $0.08 Care/Content Label 1 $0.08 $0.08
Size Label 1 $0.08 $0.08 Size Label 1 $0.08 $0.08 Size Label 1 $0.08 $0.08
Country of Origin Label 1 $0.05 $0.05 Country of Origin Label 1 $0.05 $0.05 Country of Origin Label 1 $0.05 $0.05
Thread 160 $0.00075 $0.12 Thread 160 $0.00075 $0.12 Thread 160 $0.00075 $0.12

% TO TOTAL COST 13% TOTAL TRIMS $9.10 % TO TOTAL COST 12% TOTAL TRIMS $5.74 % TO TOTAL COST 5% TOTAL TRIMS $1.63
CMT / LABOR $ AMOUNT REVISED CMT / LABOR $ AMOUNT REVISED CMT / LABOR $ AMOUNT
Grading (sizes 0-12, 7 total sizes) $0.20 Grading (sizes 0-12, 7 total sizes) $0.20 Grading (sizes 6-14, 5 total sizes) $0.15
Marking (48 pattern pieces - 2-way cut) $0.30 Marking (48 pattern pieces - 2-way cut) $0.30 Marking (48 pattern pieces - 2-way cut) $0.30
Cutting (48 pattern pieces - 2-way cut) $1.20 Cutting (48 pattern pieces - 2-way cut) $1.20 Cutting (48 pattern pieces - 2-way cut) $1.20
Make Charges (Labor) $16.56 Make Charges (Labor) $16.56 Make Charges (Labor) $16.50
% TO TOTAL COST 26% TOTAL LABOR $18.26 % TO TOTAL COST 38% TOTAL LABOR $18.26 % TO TOTAL COST 52% TOTAL LABOR $18.15
PACKING MATERIALS $ AMOUNT REVISED PACKING MATERIALS $ AMOUNT REVISED PACKING MATERIALS $ AMOUNT
Polybag $0.10 Polybag $0.10 Polybag $0.04
Hanger $0.25 Hanger $0.25 Hanger $0.15

% TO TOTAL COST 1% TOTAL PACKING $0.35 % TO TOTAL COST 1% TOTAL PACKING $0.35 % TO TOTAL COST 1% TOTAL PACKING $0.19
TOTAL COSTS $69.97 REVISED TOTAL COSTS $48.51 REVISED TOTAL COSTS $35.13
WHOLESALE MARKUP N/A REVISED WHOLESALE MARKUP N/A REVISED WHOLESALE MARKUP N/A
WHOLESALE PRICE N/A REVISED WHOLESALE PRICE N/A REVISED WHOLESALE PRICE N/A
WHOLE SALE MARGIN N/A REVISED WHOLE SALE MARGIN N/A REVISED WHOLE SALE MARGIN N/A
RETAIL MARKUP 70.0% REVISED RETAIL MARKUP 70.0% REVISED RETAIL MARKUP 70.0%
ESTIMATED RETAIL PRICE $233.22 REVISED ESTIMATED RETAIL PRICE $161.71 REVISED ESTIMATED RETAIL PRICE $117.11

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