Its garment production processes

1. Dilawar Shaikh

3. Garment manufacturing is an assembly- oriented activity with a great
range of raw materials, product types, production volumes, supply
chains, retail markets and associated technologies.
Companies range from small family business to multinationals.
The clothing industry is labour intensive industry.

4. Merchandising
department
Sampling
department
Fabric store
department
Trims and
accessories store
department
Spreading &
Cutting
department
Sewing
department
Washing
department
Quality
Assurance
department
Finishing &
Packaging
department
Maintenance
Department
Finance and
Accounts
Department
HR/Admin
Department
Departments in garment manufacturing unit

5. Buyer- Supplier
Meeting
Production
order placed
Sampling
generation for
Purchase Order
Raw material
procurement
Raw material
inspection
Fabric washing
Pre production
sample
Production
Shipment
sample Finishing Packing
Shipment

7. Receipt of the
techpack
sampling Pattern making
Raw material
procurement
Raw material
inspection
Proto sample
development
Getting
approval on
proto sample
Fit sample
making
Getting the fit
sample
approved
BOM draft for
production
Approval
sample
development
Order approved
for production
Getting
approvals on
size set samples
Raw material
procurement
R aw material
inspection
GPT/FPT to
conform to
standards
Approval on pre
production
sample
Order file
transferred to
the production
department
Follow up with
the production
department
Send shipment
samples to the
buyer
Follow up with
the production
department till
delivery

8. Merchandiser
Internal & external communication
Sampling
Preparing internal order sheets
Accessories & trims
Preparing purchase orders
Getting approvals on lab dips and bit looms
Advising and assisting production and quality department
Mediating production and quality departments
Helping documentation
Taking responsibility for inspections
Giving shipping instructions and following shipment
Source: http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/36/3516/merchandising-in-an-apparel-industry1.

10.  Getting clarifications about style details from merchandiser.
 Checking pattern’s workability.
 Preparation of different samples and getting the buyer’s approval.
 Informing quality related problems, encountered during preparing samples, to QC.
 Minimizing operations and consumption.

11. • This is the first sample which is made for any style by most of the buyer.
• Design development is either done by buyer or factory
• The main purpose is to take the decision to proceed with the same line or not.
Design development
• Proto sample is developed at very initial stage and normally order is confirmed to the factory based
on proto sample .
• Proto sample is the rough interpretation of the enquiry done to acquaint the tailors with the style.
• It is usually done on the substitute fabrics, and using accessories, what is available and then
checked on the dress form.
• The buyer may make the necessary changes pertaining to the fit, the drape, the style details etc.
Proto sample
• Fit sample is made and send to conform the fit of the garment on live models or on dummy and
for approval of construction details.
• The fabric used for fit sample production is the actual fabric which is going to be used for bulk
production or sample yardage fabric is used.
Fit sample
• In order to promote the new style in the market normally buyer asks for photo shoot sample.
• Buyer uses this photo for marketing purpose either on catalogue or various media like, print, TV
or websites to see the response of the consumer.
Photo shoot sample
• The main purpose of salesman sample is to collect the order from the retailers.
• In Sales man sample actual accessory, actual fabric is used or sample yardage need to be used.
• This sample also very important stage of sampling as the sales of buyer depends upon this sample
presentation, look, feel of fabric is important.
Sales man / Marketing
/Showroom sample
Source: http://www.textiletoday.com.bd/magazine/609

12. • The main purpose of size set sample is to check the factory's capability to make the
sample in all sizes
• 1-2 samples (or quantity specified by buyer) of each size need to send to buyer.
Size set sample
• The main purpose of GPT is to perform the physical and chemical testing on garment to
ensure the performance of the garment.
• GPT Sample is sent to 3rd party inspection and results are sent to both factory as well as
buyer.
• The tests done on garments are: Shrinkage, Color Fastness, Seam performance etc.
GPT sample (Garment
Performance Test)
• PP sample is considered to be a contract between the buyer and the factory.
• It has to be made in original fabric and trims
• Washing, embroidery and printing should match to actual.
• PP Sample is the standard for production and bulk production garments should be
identical to PP sample.
• The factory can start the production of bulk garment only after the approval of
preproduction sample.
Pre- production sample
• Wash sample is made and submitted to buyer for assessment of feel and handle of fabric
after washing.
Wash sample
• The top of production is sent to the buyer as soon initial pieces are come out of sewing
line.
• In TOP sample Buyer tries to evaluate the actual manufacturing of the style.
• Buyer check whether bulk production is as per submitted sample or not.
TOP sample (Top of
Production)
• Few buyers may ask for the shipment samples which factory needs to pull form the actual
shipment and sent to buyer.
• The main purpose of this sample is to assure buyer about the actual shipment dispatch.
Shipment sample
Source: http://www.textiletoday.com.bd/magazine/609

14. Functions of the fabric store department
 Receive the fabric as per Buyers Requirements
 Fabric inspection (four point system)
 Conduct fabric test (e.g. Shrinkage, colour fastness etc.)
 Issue to the production department as per the requirement

15.  10% random inspection for sampling or lining or net
fabric.
 Inspection for production order fabric as per buyer’s
requirement.
 Perform GSM cutting.
 Perform shrinkage test.
 Check the fabric for the bowing or skewing.
 Check fabric roll for the defects.
 Allocate points to the defects.

17. Functions of the trims and accessories department
 To receive incoming material.
 To check material for attribute & variables.
 To arrange the incoming material in allocated racks.
 To issue trims as per BOM for sampling and production & other material
as per requirement.
 To maintain a record of incoming & outgoing material.

19. Spreading and cutting flow process
Planning Spreading Cutting
Preparation for
sewing

20. Planning
Spreading
Cutting
Preparation
for sewing
Spreads
Markers
Production
Manual
Machine
Machine
Manual
Ticketing
Bundles
Spreading and cutting flow process

21. Planning
Spreads Markers Production

22. It translates customer orders into cutting orders
 minimize total production costs
 meet deadlines
 seek most effective use of labor, equipment, fabric and space

23.  Examining incoming orders and piece goods width and availability
 Determining volume, size ratios, and sectioning procedures for marker making
 Determining whether file markers are available or new ones are needed
 Developing specifications for optimum marker making and fabric utilization
 Determine most effective use of spreading and cutting equipment and personnel
 Issuing orders for marker making, spreading and cutting

24. Cutting orders
leads to
Marker planning Lay planning

25.  The results of cut order planning are cutting orders that direct marker planning and cut
planning.
 The purpose of marker planning is to determine the most efficient combination of sizes and
shades for each order and to produce the best fabric yield and equipment utilization.
 One cutting order may require several markers to achieve optimum efficiency.
 A lay is a stack of fabric plies that have been prepared for cutting.
 Lay planning is the basis of managing cutting room labor and table space.
 Spreading and cutting schedules are affected by:
 table length,
 type of equipment,
 spread length,
 spreading time and
 cutting time.

26. Marker
 is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for a specific style and the sizes
to be cut from a single spread.
Marker making
 is the process of determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a specified
style, fabric, and distribution of sizes (requires time, skill and concentration)

27.  Marker making is a critical step in the manufacturing process.
 By retaining strict control over this critical step, they keep the fabric consumption as low
as possible.
 It also ensures that the issues that affect quality will be given proper attention. These
include placing patterns on grain, keeping patterns paired, and attending to details such
as drill holes and notches.
 Depending on the relative efficiency of each marker produced, the company may save
or waste thousands of dollars a year.
Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, “Pre-Assembly Processes – The Cutting Room Marking, Spreading, Cutting and
Bundling”, The Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product Development Approach, May 2005

28. Markers types:
 Blocks or Sections
 Blocked or sectioned markers contain all of the
pattern pieces for one style in one or two sizes.
 Continuous
 Continuous markers contain all the pattern
pieces for all sizes included in a single cutting.
Block or section marker
Continuous marker

29. Markers types:
 Open marker
 Marker made with full pattern pieces.
 Closed marker
 Marker made with half garment parts pieces for laying along the folds of the tube (tubular knit).
Closed marker

30. Marker making
Manually produced
Computerized marker
making (CAD)

31. Manual marker
 Created on marker paper or directly on fabric ply
 Tracing by pencil or tailor’s chalk.
 Time consuming.
 Subject to errors. (pattern overlap, grain line, poor line definition, omission of pcs.)
 Accuracy depends on individual’s skill.

32.  Accurate
 Shortest response time.
 Direct or digitized.
 Manipulate images to determine best utilization. No overlapping/no omissions
 Parameters (style #,size, etc.) for markers are entered into the computer.
 Can be printed/recalled/modified.
 Criteria can be set by technician. Can be used to determine fabric requirement.
Computerised marker
Marker making

33. Marker mode : Nap/ One/ Way
 The Nap/ One/ Way marker (abbreviated N/O/W) is
made with every pattern placed with the “down”
direction of the pattern in the same direction.
 This mode is necessary for fabrics that are
asymmetric.
 All patterns are placed on-grain, and in the “down”
direction, which is usually toward the left edge
(starting point where the legend is written).
 The Nap/One/ Way marker is the highest quality but
least efficient of the three nap directions for a
marker.
Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, “Pre-Assembly Processes – The Cutting Room Marking, Spreading, Cutting and
Bundling”, The Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product Development Approach, May 2005

34. Marker mode : Nap/ Either/ Way
 The Nap/ Either/ Way marker (abbreviated N/E/W) is
made where there is no restriction of which way the
pattern are oriented.
 The patterns may be oriented either “down” or “up”,
placed wherever they fit best, only making sure that
the patterns are on-grain.
 The Nap/ Either/ Way marker is usually the most
efficient mode yielding the highest fabric utilization.
Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, “Pre-Assembly Processes – The Cutting Room Marking, Spreading, Cutting and
Bundling”, The Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product Development Approach, May 2005

35. Marker mode : Nap/ Up/& Down
 The Nap/ Up/& Down marker (abbreviated
N/U/D) is more efficient than the Nap/ One/ Way
marker, but not as efficient as the Nap/ Either/
Way marker.
 In order to get a better fit between the patterns,
alternating sizes of patterns are oriented in
opposite directions.
 This method is yields moderately good fabric
utilization, and good quality.
Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, “Pre-Assembly Processes – The Cutting Room Marking, Spreading, Cutting and
Bundling”, The Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product Development Approach, May 2005

36. Area of patterns in the marker plan X 100%
Total area of the marker plan
 It is determined for fabric utilization
 Minimum waste
Marker Efficiency
Factors affecting marker efficiency
 Fabric characteristics (fabric width, length of design repeat etc.)
 Shape of Pattern pieces (large pieces – less flexibility)
 Grain requirements

37.  Spreading is the processes of superimposing lengths of fabric on a spreading table cutting
table or specially designed surface in preparation for the cutting process
 Spread or lay is the total amount of fabric prepared for a single marker
Requirement of spreading
 Shade sorting of cloth pieces
 Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability
 Alignment of plies
 Correct ply tension
 Elimination of fabric faults
 Avoidance of distortion in the spread
Spreading equipment
 Spreading surfaces ( table, pin
table, vacuum table)
 Spreading machines

38. Spreading equipment
 Spreading surfaces ( table, pin table, vacuum table)
 Spreading machines

39. Spreading
Manual Machine

40.  In manual spreading, fabric is drawn from
its package which, if it is a roll, may be
supported by a frame and carried along the
table where the end is secured by weights
or by clamps.
 The operators work back from the end,
aligning the edges and ensuring that there
is no tension and that there are no
wrinkles.

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