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2014 2-4-07 denim apparel manufacturing

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2014 2-4-07 denim apparel manufacturing

  1. 1. Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTex) 1 ON The assignment On Modern Processes of Denim Apparel Manufacturing s
  2. 2. Subject: Advanced Apparel Manufacturing Subject Code: 551 Topics: Modern Processes of Denim Apparel Manufacturing Submitted To : Dr. Md. Mashiur Rahman Khan Head of the Dept. of AME Submitted By : Rishad Ahmed ID: 2014-2-4-007
  3. 3.  Denim is a kind of a clothing which is noted for their strength and comfort. They have been worn by sailors and gold miners as sturdy work pants, by the young as a statement of their generation, and by the fashionable, who are conscious of the prestige conveyed by designer names.  Denim cloth itself has an unusual history. The name comes from serge de Nimes, or the serge of Nimes, France. Originally, it was strong material made from wool. By the 1700s, it was made from wool and cotton.
  4. 4.  Yarn Manufacturing  Yarn Dyeing  Weaving  Fabric mercerization  Cutting and sewing  Washing  Finishing Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTex) 4
  5. 5. Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTex) 5 Generally denim garments are made from cotton fabric extracted from coarser count cotton yarn. But in recent trend, polymerized yarn such as spandex or polyesters are also using to give stretch and comfort to wearer. Denim yarn composition may be either 100% cotton or 98% cotton+ 2% spandex..
  6. 6. Denim fabric mainly Yarn dyed fabric where only warp yarns are dyed with vat dye where Indigo is used as dye. With the process of oxidization using airflow indigo set in yarn to give its blue cast. Also sulfur dyes and disperse dyes are used.  denim is usually dyed with chemically synthesized indigo before being woven. Large balls of yarn, called ball warps, are dipped in the indigo mixture several times so that the dye covers the yarn in layers. (These many layers of indigo dye explain why blue jeans fade slightly with each washing.) it is known that a small amount of sulfur is often used to stabilize the top or bottom layers of indigo dye.  The dyed yarn is then slashed; that is, it is coated with sizing (starchy substances) to make the threads stronger and stiffer. Once this operation is complete, the yarn threads are ready to weave with un dyed weft yarn threads. Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTex) 6
  7. 7. Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTex) 7
  8. 8.  The yarn is weave on large mechanical looms. Denim is not 100 percent blue, as the blue dyed threads forming the warp (long, vertical threads) are combined with white threads forming the weft (shorter, horizontal threads). As denim is warp faced twill fabric it shows indigo in face & white in back weft  Denim fabric is about 10-13 oz depending upon coarseness of fabric Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTex) 8
  9. 9.  RHT Twill LHT Twill Warp & Weft Facing Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTex) 9
  10. 10. Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTex) 10  At this point the denim fabric is ready for finishing, a term referring to a variety of treatments applied to cloth after it is woven. With denim, finishing is usually fairly simple. The cloth is brushed to remove loose threads and lint, and the denim is usually skewed in a way that will prevent it from twisting when it is made into clothing. The denim may then be sanforized, or preshrunk. Preshrunk denim should shrink no more than three percent after three washings.
  11. 11. Once the desired design is selected, patterns from the design are cut from heavy paper or cardboard. The pieces of denim are then cut with high speed cutting machines from stacks 100 layers thick. Excluding rivets, buttons, and zippers, a pair of blue jeans contains about ten different pieces, from the pockets to the leg panels to the waistband and belt loops. Automatic cutting tools using CAD is used to increase marker efficiency Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTex) 11
  12. 12. FLAT LOCK MACHINE:  Brand : JUKI, Brother,  Group : Chain stitch  Needle used : UY-128  Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20 & 21  SPM: 2500-6000  Adjustment : Thread tension, needle, presser foot, stitch density, looper etc. OVERLOCK MACHINE:  Name : Industrial overlock m/c.  Group : Chain stitch  Types : 3, 4 & 5 threads  Brand : JUKI, Brother, Sunstar  SPM : 6500-8500  Needle no : 1 needle, 2 loopers (3); 2 needles, 2 loopers (4); & 2 needles, 3 loopers (5)  Needle used : DCX1  Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20 & 21 BAR TACK MACHINE:  Name : Industrial bar tack machine  Brand : JUKI, Pegasus  Group : Lock Stitch  SPM : 3000-3500  Needle no : 1 needle  Needle name : DPX5  Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20 & 21 BUTTON HOLE MACHINE:  Name : Industrial Button Holing Brand : JUKI, Brother  Group : Lock stitch  SPM : 3000-3600  Needle used : DPX5  Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20 & 21 BUTTON ATTACHING MACHINE:  Name : Industrial Button Attaching machine  Brand : JUKI, Brother  Group: Chain stitch  SPM : 1200-1500  Needle no: 1  Needle use: TQX1  Needle size: 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20 & 21  Adjustment: Thread tension, needle & button Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTex) 12
  13. 13. Serial No Name of Operation Machine used No of Machine 1 Back Pocket Rolling 2 Needle Machine 1 2 Marking Table 3 Back Yoke Joining in Folder System Feed of the Arm m/c 1 4 Back Rise Joining Plain Stitch m/c 1 5 Back Rise Top Feed of the Arm m/c 1 6 Back Pocket Positioning on Marker Table 7 Back Pocket Joining Plain Stitch m/c 1 8 ¼” Stitch on Pocket Joining Plain Stitch m/c 1  Back part Joining: Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTex) 13
  14. 14. SL. no Name of Operation Machine used No of Machine 1 Pocket Matching 2 Ironing 3 Coin Pocket Attaching 2 Needle m/c 1 4 Label Joining Plain Stitch m/c 1 5 Coin Pocket Attaching with Front Facing Plain Stitch m/c 1 6 Number Match with Front Part 7 Coin Pocket Joining with Front Part Plain Stitch m/c 2 8 Front Pocket Rolling 2 Needle m/c 1 9 Pocket Tuck Plain Stitch m/c 1 10 Pocketing Over Lock Over Lock m/c 1 11 Single Fly Join with Top Stitch Plain Stitch m/c 1 12 Pocket ¼” Top Stitch Plain Stitch m/c 1 13 Front Pocket with Front Tucking Plain Stitch m/c 1 14 Zipper Joining 2 Needle m/c 1 15 J – Stitch 2 Needle m/c 1 16 Double Fly Joining Plain Stitch m/c 1 17 Front Rise Stitch 2 Needle m/c 1 Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTex) 14
  15. 15. SL. Name of Operation Machine used No of Machine 1 Back & Front Part Match on Table 2 In Seam Plain Stitch m/c 1 3 Top Seam on In Seam Feed of the Arm m/c 1 4 Side Seam Over Lock m/c 2 5 Hemming Plain Stitch m/c 1 6 Waist Belt Matching by Number 7 Waist Belt Sewing KANSAI 2 8 Edge Neatening of Down Part of the Waist Plain Stitch m/c 2 9 Waist Top Part Making 10 Waist Top Part Edge Neatening Plain Stitch m/c 2 11 Checking by LQC 12 Belt Loop Matching 13 Loop Tuck on Down Side of Waist Plain Stitch m/c 2 14 Loop Joining with Top Side of Waist Plain Stitch m/c 2 15 Final Inspection 16 Loop & Back Part Bar Tacking Bar Tack m/c 2 17 Side Pocket Tucking Plain Stitch m/c 1 Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTex) 15
  16. 16. Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTex) 16 MULTI- NEEDLE DOUBLE CHAIN STITCH Lock stitch m/c button sewing OVERLOCK MACHINES advanced chainstitch sewing H/S D/N LOCKSTITCH
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  18. 18.  Wet Process:  Normal Wash  Bleach Wash  Enzyme Wash  Stone Wash  Acid Wash  Stone+Enzyme Wash  Ozone wash  Caustic Wash  Dry Process:  Hand Scraping  Whiskering  P.P spray  Wrinkle(3D)  Laser  Grinding  Destroy  Tagging Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTex) 18
  19. 19. Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTex) 19
  20. 20. Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTex) 20
  21. 21.  The process of cloth making involves treating the fabric with a number of chemicals in order to produce clothing with such desirable characteristics such as durability, colorfastness, and comfort. Each step of finishing the cotton fabric (dyeing, sanforizing, etc.) produces byproducts, most of which are biodegradable.  Byproducts of denim manufacture include organic pollutants, such as Starch and dye, which can be treated through biological methods. These organic wastes may not be dumped into streams or lakes because of their high Bio chemical Oxygen demand. To decompose, such waste materials utilize so much oxygen that the life forms in the body of water would be denied the oxygen necessary for survival.  Denim manufacturers process their own wastes in compliance with all relevant government regulations. Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTex) 21
  22. 22.  Offer Sample  Sample showcase  Sample selection  Buyer’s speck sheet  Prototype pattern  Sample for approval (If ok)  Production Pattern  Bulk Production (Garment making)  Inspection  Packing Shipment Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTex) 22
  23. 23. FOUR POINT GRADING SYSTEM Size of defects Penalty 3 inches or less 1 point Over three inch but not 6 inch 2 point Over 6 inch but not 9 inch 3 point Over 9 inch 4 point Defect Pts /100 square meter = (Total penalty point * 36*100)/ (fabric width in inch *fabric length in yards) ANANTA maintains P.P to be approved at 28/lot & 24/consignment to achieve higher quality  Scope of quality control, quality assurance & testing a. Testing Lab b. Research & development(R&D)  In Apparel section, Quality Control: a) In Marker making b) In Spreading section c) In Cutting section d) In Sewing section e) In Pressing & Finishing section Fabric inspection
  24. 24. PREMIUM BUYER: C&A GAP BESTSELLER H&M ETC. MARKETING STRATEGY  I ) Market search  ii) Market development  iii) Customer’s motivation  iv) Production follow up  v) Technical assistance of customer Again  Ø To prepare cost sheet by dealing with the buyer.  Ø To take different steps by discussing with the high officials & merchandisers  Ø To maintain a regular & good relations hip between commercial officer & merchandisers  Ø To maintain a communication with the buyers and buying houses  Ø Communicate with better criteria of the products Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTex) 24
  25. 25. Respected Teacher & mates Present Here & Dr. Md. Mashiur Rahman Khan Head of the Dept. of AME , Department of Apparel manufacturing Engineering. Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTex}.
  26. 26. For your Patience Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTex) 26

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