COSMOS stands for Cosmetics Organic and Natural Standard. Sets certification requirements for organic and natural cosmetics products in Europe. The standard is recognized globally by the cosmetics industry.

1. Review of Guidelines for herbal cosmetics by private
bodies like COSMOS with respect to Foaming Agents
Under the guidance of,
Dr. S. Janaki Devi
Presented by
Divya Pushp
VP21PHAR0100004

2. CONTENTS
• Introduction of COSMOS
• Objectives of COSMOS
• Documents of COSMOS
• Origin and processing of ingredients
• Composition of total product
• Storage, manufacturing and packaging
• Environmental management
• Labelling and communication
• Certification
• What are Foaming Agents?
• Requirements of Foaming Agents
• Classification of Foaming Agents
• Pharmaceutical and Cosmetic Applications of Foaming Agents
• Examples of Foaming Agents used in Cosmetics
• Herbal Cosmetic Products Examples according to COSMOS
• Conclusion

3. INTRODUCTION
• COSMOS stands for Cosmetics Organic and Natural Standard.
• Sets certification requirements for organic and natural cosmetics products
in Europe.
• The standard is recognized globally by the cosmetics industry.
• The five cosmos members are:
• BDIH (Germany)
• Cosmebio & Ecocert Greenlife SAS (France)
• ICEA (Italy)
• Soil Association (Great Britain)

4. OBJECTIVES OF COSMOS
• The cosmos-standard applies to cosmetic products that are marketed as
organic or natural. Its guiding principles are to:
• Promote the use of products from organic agriculture, and respect
biodiversity.
• Use natural resources, and respect the environment.
• Use processing and manufacturing that are clean and respectful of human
health and the environment.
• Integrate and develop the concept of “Green Chemistry”.
Documents involved in COSMOS
1. COSMOS-standard
2. COSMOS Technical Guide- which contains additional interpretation and
explanation related to COSMOS standard.
3. COSMOS Labelling Guide
4. COSMOS Control Manual – Certification and Accreditation Requirements.

5. • This standard applies to cosmetic products
marketed as organic or natural and cosmetic
ingredients with organic content. To be certified
these products must comply with the defined
criteria on:
1. Origin and processing of ingredients
2. Composition of total product
3. Storage, manufacturing and packaging
4. Environmental management
5. Labelling and communication
6. Certification.

6. ORIGIN AND PROCESSING OF INGREDIENTS
According to COSMOS standards, the ingredients of a cosmetic product
are classified in five categories:
 Water
 Minerals and ingredients of mineral origin
 Physically processed agro-ingredients
 Chemically processed agro-ingredients
 Other ingredients.
1. Water (Solvent)-
The water used must comply with hygienic standards (CFU<100/ml).
Type of water used- potable water, spring water, water obtained by
osmosis, distilled water and sea water.
Other solvents- ethyl alcohol, glycerine, vegetable oils, honey,
supercritical CO2.
Water/solvent may be treated with the physical processes allowed in
Appendix I.

7. 2. Minerals and ingredients of mineral origin-
Minerals may be used as long as they are obtained without intentional
chemical modification and preferably from environment.
Ingredients of mineral origin may be used only if they are listed in
Appendix IV.

8. 3. Physically processed agro-ingredients
Included if any physically processed product of plant, animal, or microbial
origin that complies with the conditions below.
• Only primary raw materials of plants, animals or microbial origin that have
been extracted using the physical processes allowed in Appendix I.
• Only primary raw materials that respect the requirements of the
Convention of International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and
Flora (CITES) are allowed.
It is forbidden to use:
• Plants, plants materials and microorganisms that have been genetically
modified.
• Primary raw materials extracted from living or slaughtered animals.
It is allowed to use ingredients of animal origin as long as:
• They are produced by animals but are not a part of the animal.
• They do not entail the death of the animal concerned, and
• They have been obtained using only the processes listed in Appendix I.

9. APPENDIX I: PHYSICAL PROCESSES ALLOWED
• ABSORPTION STANDARD
• BLEACHING
• BLENDING
• CENTRIFUGING
• EXTRACTION
• PRESSURE
• DRYING (by evaporation/natural under sun)
• DISTILLATION
• EXTRACTION (steam)
• FILTRATION and
• PURIFICATION (ultra filtration, dialysis, crystallisation)
• FREEZING
• GRINDING
• INFUSION
• LYPOPHILIZATION
• MACERATION
• PERCOLATION
• ROASTING
• CRUSHING
• STERILISATION

10. 4. Chemically processed agro-ingredients
Any chemically processed product of plant, animal, or microbial origin that satisfy the
conditions below
• Any raw materials that fulfill the requirements of the International Trade in
Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) are allowed to be used.
Chemically processed agro-ingredients may contain mineral moieties.
Note- alcohol and other by-products of fermentation are chemically processed agro-
ingredients.
It is allowed to use ingredients of animal origin as long as:
• They are produced by animals but are not a part of the animal.
• They do not entail the death of the animal concerned,
• They have been obtained using only the processes listed in Appendix II.
5. Other Ingredients
• Certain other ingredients are allowed as long as there are no effective natural
alternatives available to ensure the safety of consumers or efficacy of the product.

12. COMPOSITION OF TOTAL PRODUCT
The COSMOS standard covers two levels for finished products:
• Cosmetic products under organic certification.[Certified as COSMOS ORGANIC]
• Cosmetic products under natural certification.[Certified as COSMOS NATURAL]
1. Rules for Cosmetic Products Under Organic Certification
a) Ingredients
• At least 95% of the physically processed agro-ingredients must be organic.
• The remaining physically processed agro-ingredients must be organic if they are
listed in Appendix VI.
• The chemically processed agro-ingredients listed in Appendix VII must be organic.
b) Total Product
• At least 20% of the total product must be organic.
• By exception, for rinse-off products, non-emulsified aqueous products, and products
with at least 80% minerals or ingredients of mineral origin, at least 10% of the total
product must be organic.

13. APPENDIX VI: PHYSICALLY PROCESSED AGRO-INGRDIENTS THAT MUST
BE ORGANIC
APPENDIX VII: CHEMICALLY PROCESSED AGRO-INGREDIENTS THAT
MUST BE MADE FROM ORGANIC ORIGIN

14. 2. Rules for Cosmetic Products Under
Natural Certification
• There is no requirement to use a minimum level
of organic ingredients.
• Base formulas with no organic content (e.g.,
shampoo bases, soap bases) cannot go through
the normal Approval process.
• Instead, they must be certified under COSMOS
NATURAL certification (therefore including an
on-site inspection).

15. STORAGE, MANUFACTURING AND
PACKAGING
1. Storage
Storage areas must be clearly labelled to avoid any confusion or risk to
the integrity of the products.
2. Manufacturing
Different manufacturing processes must be separated to prevent
contamination of organic or natural ingredients.
There must be a Quality Control System which includes:
• Complete traceability of ingredients and final products
• Manufacturing procedures throughout all stages
• Ingredient and product testing, and
• Analysis, manufacturing and storage records.

16. 3. Packaging
Primary and secondary packaging components must meet the
criteria below. Accessories sold with products, such as brushes,
applicators or technical parts, do not have to comply.
a) To minimize the direct and indirect environmental impacts
of packaging during its life cycle, it is required to:
• Minimise the amount of material used.
• Maximise the amount of material that can be reused or
recycled, and
• Use materials with recycled content if possible.
b) All packaging materials used must be on the list of accepted
materials as listed in Appendix IX.

17. APPENDIX IX: PACKAGING MATERIALS

18. c) It is forbidden to use these materials in packaging:
• Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and other chlorinated plastics
• Polystyrene and other plastics containing styrene
• materials or substances that contain, have been derived from, or manufactured
using GMOs.
• part of animals or substances produced by animals (e.g. leather, silk).
d) Only the following propulsive gases may be used:
• Air
• Oxygen
• Nitrogen
• Carbon dioxide
• Argon.

19. ENVIRONMENTAL MANAGEMENT
1. Environmental management plan
• It must addresses manufacturing waste, including gaseous, liquid and solid
waste.
• It must aim to reduce, reuse, recycle waste products.
• It must follow ISO 14000 guidelines.
2. Cleaning and Hygiene
• Following disinfectants are used:
• iso-propyl alcohol
• amphoteric surfactants
• hydrogen peroxide
• mineral acids and alkalis
• formic acid
• plant-based cleaning products

20. LABELLING AND COMMUNICATION
Labelling condition products under organic certification
• Must be labelled with the signature ‘COSMOS ORGANIC’ with the seal of the COSMOS-standard AISBL
member organization.
• Must indicate the certification body on the label.
• Must indicate on the label the percentage of organic origin ingredients by weight in the total product,
as “x% organic of total.”
• Must indicate organic ingredients and those made from organic raw materials in the INCI list.
• The product must not be called “organic”, unless it is at least 95% organic.

21. Products under natural certification
• must be labelled with the signature ‘COSMOS NATURAL’ in conjunction
with the seal of the COSMOS-standard AISBL member organization.
• must indicate the certification body on the label.
• must indicate the percentage of natural origin ingredients by weight in the
total product, as “x% natural origin of total.”
• may indicate organic ingredients and those made from organic raw
materials in the INCI list.

22. CERTIFICATION AND APPROVAL OF PRODUCT LABELLING

23. FOAMING AGENT
A foaming agent is a material that facilitates the formation of foam
such as a surfactant or a blowing agent. A surfactant, when
present in small amounts, reduces surface tension of a liquid or
increases its colloidal stability by inhibiting coalescence of bubbles.
Eg. Sodium Lauryl Sulphate
FOAM
Foam is a dispersion of a gas in a liquid. Here the liquid is generally
water and the gas is generally air but it may also be an inert gas.
It’s a colloid system.

24. REQUIREMENTS OF FOAMING AGENTS
1. Generate consistent foam easily.
2. Show optimum and uniform wetting.
3. Biodegradable
4. Should be compatible with the other components.
5. It should show little or no effect on color fastness.

25. NATURAL FOAMING AGENTS
• Quillaja Saponaria (Soap Bark)
Natural foaming agent derived from the Soap Bark tree, which is native to central Chile.
• Decyl Glucoside
A gentle and mild natural surfactant which doesn’t contain any impurities. It is obtained from 100%
renewable vegetable origin and is produced by the reaction of glucose from corn starch with the fatty
alcohol decanol, which is derived from coconut.
• Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CocoBetaine)
Derived from Coconut oil, it gives a smooth silky feel to products and a good foam.
• Coco Glucoside
Natural ultra-mild and gentle surfactant derived from coconut and fruit sugars. It can be used as a
foaming agent, conditioner or emulsifier, is gentle on the skin and gives a smooth silky feel to products,
allowing them to glide over the skin.
• Sodium Cocoamphoacetate
A surfactant, foam booster and conditioning agent used in skin care products. This is an organic
compound derived from coconut oil which is very gentle on the skin, and helps products glide on
smoothly.

26. CLASSIFICATION
PHYSICAL CHEMICAL
INORGANIC ORGANIC INORGANIC ORGANIC
NITROGEN
CO2
WATER
AIR
PENTANE
HEXANE
FREON
DICHLOROMETHANE
DICHLOROETHANE
CARBONATES
BICARBONATES
NITRATES
P-TOULENESULFONYL
SEMICARBAZIDE
5-PHENYL TETRAZOLE
4,4’-OXYBIS[BENZENE SULFONYL
HYDRAZIDE]
N,N’’-DINITROSO PENTAMETHYLENE
TETRAMINE
AZODICARBONAMIDE
ISOCYANATE/WATER

27. FOAMING AGENTS IN PHARMACEUTICAL APPLICATION
1.Dermal Drug Delivery
• Ointments comprise a high viscous, non-volatile vehicle which
can be unpleasant to apply and often difficult to remove from
skin and clothing.
• Creams, ointments and gels can leave residues after application
and stain clothing. Solutions often flow away from the site of
application because of their low viscosity.
• Negative sensory attributes such as greasiness, oiliness or
tackiness can be to some degree avoided using foams as a
vehicle for drug delivery.
• There is no sticky feeling and shiny look after application.

28. • Moreover, foams absorb and penetrate quickly without
leaving any greasy residue. That is why these vehicles can be
used on hair bearing skin; the vehicle breaks down rapidly
and reaches the St. corneum through the hair shafts.
• Foam density is approximately one tenth of the density of
conventional vehicles.
• Therefore, foams as more gentle products can be applied and
spread more easily onto large areas with negligible
mechanical shearing required than during application of
traditional vehicles.
• Foams can be easily applied to mucosal areas, to sensitive or
to highly inflamed skin, when rubbing the formulation onto
the skin may be painful or causes further inflammation.

29. 2. Vaginal and rectal Drug Delivery
• Foam vehicles offer both,convenient application and one-step
administration, within one product.
• No leak of the vehicle takes place during application.
• Moreover, the residence time of the active pharmaceutical
ingredients can be controlled through the use of bio-adhesive
polymers.
3. Nasal Drug Delivery
• There are also nasal compositions containing foaming agents such
as saponin and lecithin under development which should
moisturise the nasal cavity in treatment of rhinitis.
• Nasal foams containing non-steroidal anti-inflammatory and
analgesic agents for treatment of low back pain, arthralgia,
distorsion and tendosynovitis are also described.

30. FOAMING AGENTS IN COSMETICS
1. Shaving Creams
• Hard fine pored shaving foam helps to uphold the hair
during the shaving process. Hair mousse helps to give
the hair desirable shape and volume.
2. Foam Bath or Foam Bath Powder
• Foam formation during the application of a foam bath
or foam bath powder is only a cosmetic attribute.
• For foam baths some foam characteristics such as fast
foam generation (“flash foam”), big foam volume, good
stability of foam and slow foam drainage are especially
important.

31. 3.Shampoos
For shampoos, a good foamability of a formulation is of specific
importance.
4. Aerosol hair dying foam are also available in the market.
5. Dry aerosol foams containing zeolite can be used as dry after
shave talc foam, dry deodorant foam, dry makeup foundation
foam or dry body talc foam.
6. There are also foam compositions for application to the skin
as a barrier to skin irritants in the prevention of contact
dermatitis caused for example by sodium lauryl sulfate. Such
formulations, as e.g. a protective foam containing dimethicone
and glycerine was shown to improve chronic hand dermatitis in
individuals with previously uncontrolled dermatitis despite
continuing their regular occupation.

32. 7. Bepanthen® is a foam formulation marketed in
Germany by Roche Consumer Health Ltd containing
dexpanthenol which is used to improve the healing
process of the skin.
8. Allpresan® is a trade name for different foam
formulations used to treat dry skin conditions which
contain urea in different concentrations (5%, 10%,
15% and 18%).

33. Some examples of foaming agents used in cosmetics
Product Type Foaming Agent Concentration %
Toothpaste Sodium Lauryl Sulphate 1-2
Herbal Shampoo Sodium Laureth Sulfate 15
Shaving Creams Triethanolamine 20-30
Hair Removal Cream Sodium Lauryl Sulphate 0.02
Herbal Face Wash Sodium Lauryl Sulphate 2
Herbal Soap Sodium Lauryl Sulphate 15
Mouthwash Tween 80 12
Shower Gels Lauryl Glucoside 12

34. FOAMING AGENTS USED IN TOOTHPASTES
NAME USES CONC. %
Sorbitol Humectant 20-40
Silica Abrasive 20-40
Sodium Lauryl
Sulphate
Foaming agent 1-2
Flavor Flavouring
agent
2
Cocamidopropyl
Betaine
Foam Booster 1-2
Sodium CMC Binding Agent 2
Sodium
Saccharin
Sweetener 2
Sodium Fluoride Anticavity -

35. FOAMING AGENTS IN SHAMPOOS
NAME USE CONC.
%
Sodium Laureth
Sulfate
Primary Surfectant 16
Cocamidopropyl
Betaine
Cosurfectant 2
Cocamide MEA Cosurfectant 2
Glycol Distearate Pearling Agent 1.5
Guarhydroxypropylt
rimonium chloride
Conditioning agent for
wet hair
0.5
Citric Acid pH adjuster qs
Sodium Chloride Viscosity Booster qs

36. FOAMING AGENTS USED IN SHAVING CREAMS
NAME USES CONC. %
Stearic Acid Thickening Agent 10-25
Glycerin Humectant 2-10
Myristic Acid Foaming Agent 1-5
Triethanolamine Foaming agent,Emulsifier -
Perfume Odour qs

37. CERTIFIED ORGANIC SKINCARE BRANDS IN INDIA

38. Hibiscus Shampoo with Honey and Aloevera
This Ayurvedic formulation is a perfectly balanced shampoo that cleanses the scalp without removing natural oils or making
the hair dry. Infused with the goodness of Organic Hibiscus petals, nutrient-rich Aloe Vera and moisturising Honey, it
nourishes, hydrates and cleanses your hair.
Packaged in a plastic bottle which
Is recyclable.
Name Uses
Aloe Barbadensis
Juice
Sootheneing dry scalp and prevent flaking
Hibiscus rosa
sinesis flower
extract
Prevent dryness and treat hair breakage
Lauryl glucoside Foaming agent
Sodium coco
sulphate
Foaming agent
Coco glucoside Foaming,cleansing,viscosity building agent
Potassium
Sorbate, Sodium
gluconate
Preservative
Citral Flavouring agent
Linalool Imparts odour
Betaine Hair conditioning product
Aqua Solvent to dissolve ingredients

39. DIRECTIONS FOR USE
1. Take adequate amount on your palm
2. Massage it into your wet scalp and rinse it thoroughly
3. Wash your hair with a conditioner, concentrating on the length of your hair
STEP 1 STEP 2 STEP 3

40. LABELLING CONDITIONS
• Ayurvedic Formulation
• Prevents dryness & hair breakage
• Cleanses & Hydrates at the same time
• SLS/SLES free
• Suitable for All hair types
• 100% Vegetarian
• Certified 'Organic' by COSMOS, France
• Not tested on animals
• DOES NOT contain Parabens, Silicones, Lead, DEA/TEA, Phthalates, SLS/SLES, Mineral Oil, Petrolatum and Synthetic Fragrance
• Net weight of the product: 250 ml
• Best Before: Within 30 months from the date of manufacture
• Manufactured by: Vedicare Ayurveda Pvt. Ltd.
• Country of Origin: India
• Disclaimer: Above claims are based on documented properties of the ingredients in this product. Actual results may vary for each
individual.

41. Plantas Cell renewal organic face wash
Names Ingredients
Glycyrrhiza glabra Brightening agent
Lauryl glucoside Foaming agent,cleanser
Decyl glucoside Foaming agent
Glycerin Humectant
Vitis vinifera Anti-inflammatory
agent
Morus indica Increase melanin
content

42. LABELLING CONDITIONS
Plantas brings to you the purest essence of nature to make a meaningful difference
in your lives through India's 1st and only complete range of ORGANIC products
certified by ECOCERT GREENLIFE, FRANCE under COSMOS V3 standard.
COSMOS V3 is the highest global organic cosmetic standard.
This certification conforms to ORGANIC QUALITY TRACEABILITY from farm to shelf.
About the Product
This face wash enriched with antioxidant property of apple prevents cell and tissue
damage. Abundance ocalagen &c elastin in papaya helps the skin to repair & renew
the cells.
100% Natural Origin of total.
95.403% of the total ingredients are from organic farming.
COSMOS organic certified by Ecocert Greenlife according to COSMOS standard
This Product is also Free from Phthalate, Pesticide & Mineral oil
How to use: Take a pea size quantity. Apply it on wet face avoiding the eye area. Create a lather, gently massage and rinse it
off.
Store in a cool dark place away from direct sunlight.
FOR EXTERNAL USE ONLY.
Mfd by: PLANTAS INNOVATIONS (P) LTD.

43. Boreal Hydra Shower and Shampoo
Name Ingredients
Aqua Solvent
Disodium cocyl glutamate Mild Surfectant
Lauryl glucoside Foaming agent
Lavandula angustifolia flower water Preservative
Betula alleghaniensis bark extract Masking and flavouring agent
Pinus banksiana bark extract Perfume
Glycerin Humectant
Jasminum officinale flower oil Prevent hair breakage
Juniperus virginiana wood oil[Cedarwood oil] Stimulate healthy growth,reduce thinning,
and slow hair loss

44. LABELLING CONDITIONS
• 98,99% Natural Origin of Total
• Natural Eco Sustainable with Borēaline® Hydra
A sustainable ingredient composed of bark extracts from a mix of four actives extracted from the
recycled bark of four Boreal tree species obtained through a circular economy process. Provides stable
and long-lasting hydration and protection.
• Shampoo & Shower
New formula based on a delicate “green” detergent with good cleansing ability – high biological
degradability – environmentally friendly – Sulphate free. Ideal for all skin and hair types; containing
Borēaline® Hydra, a powerful, sustainable hydrating complex and organic Lavender Water. It cleanses
our hair without weighing down and gives your skin moisture and a pleasant smell of essential oils.
• USE: On wet hair and skin apply sparingly, massage in and rinse off with lukewarm water. Repeat as
needed. Frequent Use. External Use only.
• COSMOS NATURAL
• RECYCLED PET BOTTLE [PACKAGING- Polyethylene terephthalate recyclable bottle]
• 250ml
• Categories: Boreal Hydra, Specialty Hair&Skin care

45. Licorice and saffron skin brightening bath bar

46. Licorice: Rich in antioxidants, organic extracts of licorice controls premature ageing &
brighten skin tone.
Royal Saffron: Saffron used in its purest form in Organic Handmade soaps comes from
the beautiful valley of Kashmir. It is also effective against acne & dehydrated skin.
Soy Butter: High in lecithin, sterolins, omega-3 fatty acids and isoflavones, it rapidly
penetrates into the skin and hydrates from within.
Olive & Coconut Oil: Rich in vitamins, keeps the skin healthy and balanced. Completely
non-greasy & ideal for all skin types.
Names Uses
Sodium cocoate Foaming agent
Sodium olivate Detergent
Sodium hydroxide Foaming agent
Vetiveria zizanoides Perfume

47. LABELLING CONDITIONS
This wonderfully moisturizing hand crafted soap with extractsof Licorice
and Saffron removes skin pigmentation and bringsan inner glow to your
complexion.
Each of the Azafran's soap will have a small variation in shapeand size as they are
handcrafted.
To make your soap last longer, keep it dry in between uses.
COSMOS Natural certified by Ecocert Greenlife according to COSMOS standard,
Paraben Free | Sulphate Free
Formulated with natural and botanical extracts and tends to change colour over
the period of time. However, the effectiveness remains the same.
Store in a cool & dry place.
Discontinue usage if irritation occurs.
For external use only,
Mfd.& Mktd, by: Azafran Innovacion Ltd.
Net weight when packed: 100 gm

48. CONCLUSION
• COSMOS stands for Cosmetics Organic and Natural Standard.Sets
certification requirements for organic and natural cosmetics products
in Europe.
• Objectives of Cosmos.
• Concentrations of foaming agents to be used in different cosmetic
products.
• Various herbal cosmetic products according to COSMOS

49. THANK YOU