Mountain garden design for mgv2016

Mountain Garden Design
Kathy Zimmerman
Transylvania County Master Gardener Volunteer,
Garden Designer, Wildwood Design
2016

Mountain Gardening –
What’s Different?
Slopes
Shade
Storm water
WildlifeNative
Plants
Poor
Soil

Development in the mountains
introduces …
•
• Slopes
– Steep
– Lost vegetation
& roots
– Bare, exposed,
poor soil
• Alterations in
natural water flow
• Increased
impervious surfaces

Other Common Landscape
Problems

What is landscape design?
A. After you buy a plant, decide
where best to place it in your
yard
B. Analyze the appearance of your
yard, then decide what plants
would look good
C. Study the environmental and
aesthetic aspects of your yard,
then decide what plants will
both look good and best thrive Afteryou
buya
plant,d...
Analyze
the
appearance
..
Studytheenvironm
enta..

Which leads us to …
• Landscape Design - a process by which we
determine our goals, analyze our
environment, and identify what will grow
well, and how best to use our space and
resources …. versus …
• Plant Driven “Design” – which often starts
with impulse buying and is done without
planning, without understanding our
environment, and is too often unsuccessful

Steps in Landscape Design
• Determine Program (Requirements)
• Site Analysis
• Concept Plan
• Illustrative Design
• Planting Design

Graphical Diagramming
• Diagramming enables designer to
– investigate approaches
– communicate organization, circulation, spatial
relationships, structure and enclosure
• Diagrams work with
– Concepts – ideas, processes, events
– Objects – Physical elements varying in scale

Step One: Determine
Requirements – the “Program”
• Identify wants and needs
• How you want to use the space
• Personal interests, favorite colors, styles
• Access requirements
• Context of neighborhood
Output: List of items to be included in the
plan or considered for inclusion

Example of Program
• Create an inviting entrance area to the front of the
house. The design will incorporate the existing
‘Forest Pansy’ Redbud tree and add 4-season
interest.
• Provide for an intimate outside dining area with
easy access to kitchen. The space should
accommodate small gatherings (4-6 people).
• Include a woodland path that can be accessed
from the back yard patio as well as from the front
walkway. Be sure to include several native azaleas
and other native plant material.
• The design should provide an informal, natural
look in keeping with the mountain site.

Next Step: Site Analysis
• Perform a Site
Inventory –
– Draw the house and
yard to scale
– Draw in all
permanent or semi-
permanent fixtures
& plants based on
measurements
– This is your base plan
or map

Site Analysis Resources
• Tape Measures (30’
metal, 100’ plastic)
• Graph Paper
(1/8” or 1/4”)
• Ruler
• Tracing paper
• Compass
• Plat/Survey
• GIS printout (see
handouts for website)
• Photos

– Take pictures
• helps you see things
you might have
overlooked
• take pictures from
inside looking out
• good reminder as you
go through the design
process

Analysis
• Add notes & diagrams to show attributes and
problems with site
– show the existing plants and note the condition of
each plant
• Which plants have outlived their role?
• What plants could be moved or pruned to revitalize them?
• What plants have been shaded out by mature trees and
shrubs?
– note environmental conditions (aspect to the sun, soil
condition, shade, wetness, poor growth, frequent
pruning, etc.)
– Note aesthetic or visual problems (windows blocked,
bad view, need for privacy, etc.)
• Remember … “Everything depends on everything
else …” D. Bir

Track the Sun/shade patterns: Full sun plants
require 6 hours or more sun per day

Identify Functional Goals
• Buffer – screen visual, noise, provide privacy
• Enclosure – separate distinct use areas
• Entertainment
• Recreation
• Directing views
• Directing circulation
• Erosion control/drainage issues
• Climate control – shade, air filtration
• Increase wildlife habitats

Step Three:
Develop a Concept Plan
• Blend needs and function with ideas and creativity
• Try to create a “sense of place” - The character of the
garden that will be developed …
– Start with an overarching idea for the design - makes it more
enriching and helps move the design along
– May be based on the setting – natural, historical, …
– May be based upon a theme – color, memorial, …
– Always helps to have this sense in order to bring unity and
personalization to the landscape

Concept Diagram
Bubble diagrams help to
organize the space and
provide a way to let ideas
flow
•Use trace paper over the
site plan
•Develop a pattern relating
the house to structure and
views; helps keep
proportion so everything
hangs together

Section & Perspective Drawings
•Rough section
drawings will help
offer a dimensional
view – can use photos
with trace paper to try
out ideas

Now think Design & Plants …
• Now it’s time to flesh out the concept,
taking it from the general to the specific
with stepwise refinement
• Address the program and resolve the
problems identified during site analysis
• Follow design principles for a satisfactory
new garden design

Design Elements in a Small
Garden
• Balance/Symmetry
• Proportion/Scale
• Unity
– Contrast/Texture/Color
– Focalization
– Repetition/Rhythm/Transition

Balance
… brings visual equilibrium creating a sense of ease

Overgrown
Shrubbery Affects
Balance

Slopes and
Empty Walls
Can Affect
Balance

Symmetry Provides Balance
- Identical images on either side of axis
- Gives sense of order, serenity & formality

Asymmetry Can Still Have Balance
-Blending of different elements with visual weight equal
across image
- For example, 1 large object balanced by several smaller or
can achieve this visually through texture and materials that
reflect subordination or dominence

Scale and
Proportion
• Important in small space
• Scale in a garden relates
human form to the
objects
• Proportion relates to
size relationships of
parts within a whole –
the objects within the
composition
From Notanothergardeningblog.wordpress.com

Look at
Proportion of
Plants to House

Scale – Relationship to People

Walkway and Perennials add Human Scale

• This will help you
organize the space
• Helps achieve intimacy
and maintain scale
Think in Terms of
Outside “Rooms”

Unity
• Synthesizing of elements
into a harmonious whole
• Unifying concept
• Repetition of elements,
color, shape, line
• Unity – bringing order and
harmony to composition
so that it all fits together

Variety
• Contrast – brings
visual relief to a
composition
• Tension - opposing
elements provide
drama
• Differences provides
interest and meaning
within a unified
context
• Shape
• Texture
• Color
• Weight
• Lines & curves

Coarse Texture
- Dominates – will draw the eye
- Usually put towards back

Fine Texture
- Recedes from view, so best appreciated from closer

Medium Texture
- Most plants
- Used in contrast with coarse
and fine textured plants

Where does the eye go?
A. Tree
B. Chartreuse Perennial
C. Rock Walkway
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Where Does the Eye Go?
A. Variegated Shrub
B. Oakleaf Hydrangea
C. Blue Flowers
V
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Texture –
Essential for the winter
garden

Which scene is more interesting?
A B
100%
0% A. Picture A
B. Picture B

Plant Combinations –
Contrast in Color, Texture, Form, Light, …

How to we create a
balance between Variety
and Unity?
• Choose a theme or
sense of place to
tie it all together
• Select plants and
materials that
create repetition,
rhythm and
transition
• Place plants so that
there is a focal
point

Focal Points
• Emphasis/Focalization
– draws the eye,
moves you forward –
can be influenced by
size, color, location,
lighting

Focal Points
• One per “room”
or at least one per
season per room
• Weeping plants
good to use
because of
contrast –
wouldn’t want
multiple

Select One Plant as Focal Point
other plants & materials to complement

Specimen Plants as Focal Points

Focal Points Need not be Plants

Repetition
• Strong unifying element
• Might be with skeleton of evergreens
• Mass of same plant
• Repeating color or texture

Repetition using same plant …

Repetition for Unity
Using Color …

Repetition …
Using Materials

Does this work?
A. Yes
B. No
Yes
No

Rhythm & Transition
• Rhythm - Reinforcing concept such as
stepping stones, row of columns or tree
trunks, repeated plant, or form
• Transition – relates contrasting elements,
softens contrasting materials through linear
elements, paths, walls, edges, etc.

Symmetry,
Rhythm,
Repetition,
Line,
Edge,
Focalization,
Transition,
Scale,
Enclosure

Asymmetry,
Balance,
Focalization,
Unity,
Line,
Repetition,
Transition,
Enclosure,
Proportion,
Scale,
Contrast

Identify Functional Goals
 Buffer – screen visual, noise, provide privacy
 Enclosure – separate distinct use areas
 Entertainment
 Recreation
 Directing views
 Directing circulation
 Erosion control/drainage issues
 Climate control – shade, air filtration
 Increase wildlife habitats

Where Does the Water Go in My
Yard?
• To solve stormwater
problems in your yard,
begin by observing
your yard during a
rainfall event.
• Notice where water is
flowing from, and
where it is going.

Conservation
Open
Drainage
Rain Gardens
Amended
Soils
Rain
Barrel
Permeable
Pavement
• How can I keep the water …
on my property?
Low Impact Development
Techniques

Possible Solutions
• Rainwater Harvesting
• Permeable Materials
• French Drains
• Swales & Level Spreaders
• Dry Streams
• Slope Management
• Rain Gardens

Rain garden principles
• Place between
stormwater source and
destination (between
house and stream, low
spots in yard, or street)
• Soil and plants filter
pollutant from water
• Infiltration slows water
to decrease flooding

Provide a dry stream bed to collect and route
water off the hill -

Step Five: Planting Design
• Choose Plants that Fit the Design
– Consider style and overall effect; designate
focal points
– Consider time element – both seasonal
change and ultimate size of plants
– Consider shape, texture, color, contrast,
repetition, rhythm, etc.

Right Plant, Right Place
• Consider environmental factors
– Sun exposure
– Moisture
– Soil condition, pH, texture
– Space to grow to ultimate expected size
• If working with existing plants - identify those that
need to be removed, moved or renewal pruned

Learn from the Natural
Landscape
• Orientation
– North – shade, part shade
Rhododendron, Sourwood,
Christmas Fern
– South – full sun, unless tree
shaded
Barren/Grasses,
Weeds/Wildflowers;
Shaded/Mountain Laurel

Cones
• Carry weight &
add stability
• Also serve as
exclamation mark!

Globes
• Add weight
• Contrast well with
spikes & fountains

Mounds
• Provide grounding
• Softer and lower in
profile than globes

Spikes
• Get attention, draws
eye
• Contrasts well with
mounds and globes

Fountains
• Tall plants, flaring
outward at top
• Vase-shaped trees
• Adds grace

Mats
• Lies low
• Ties the garden to its
site

Putting Plants Together
(John Brookes)
• Specials – specimen trees, focal points
• Skeletons – bones of garden, evergreens
• Decorative – flowering shrubs, vines, ornamental
grasses
• Pretties – herbaceous perennials, seasonal
interest
• InFills- bulbs, annuals, splash of color & interest
• Work in triangles – mass, smaller, single for
natural planting

Install the “Bones” of the Garden:
Hardscape and Evergreens

Add “Fillers” and “Pretties”

Elements to Consider for Plant
Selection & Placement
• Color
• Texture
• Scent
• Sound
• Touch
• Light
• Form
• Contrast
• Pattern
• Perspective
• Motion
• Circulation
• Change
• Aspect

Start Small – Develop Focal
Points or Vignettes

Choose Plants That
Work in All Seasons

Planting Layout Tips
• Watch out for spreaders!
• Plant in masses – odd numbers usually work best
• Group plants by their water requirements and
place those that need more water closest to the
source
• When planting natives, look to what grows
together in plant communities – they will be most
successful together
• Avoid monoculture – variety helps avoid plant
disease

Plant in
Masses –
Plant
Close
Together
Plant a
Variety –
(but repeat
the
varieties)

“Natural” Garden Design
• Imitate nature
• Plant masses or drifts of one kind of plant, gradually yielding
to another, with interspersion at borders

Hillside Layout Tips
• Break up the water with rock & plants
• Alter the slope with terraces, berms, walls
• Plant in masses
• Plant closer together than you might on
level land
• Plant a variety - different layers help to
slow down the water

A Hillside Rock Garden Uses the Slope to Advantage

Appropriate Plants for
the Mountain Garden
– Use natives where possible –
they are tolerant of the climate
variability of your site and you
won’t spread competing species
to naturalized areas; remove
invasives!
– Consider environmental factors
• Sun/shade
• Soil
• Wetness

Encourage
nature to do it’s
thing

Partial Shade – North Slope
Flame Azalea
Native Rhododendron
Mountain Hydrangea
Sourwood
Christmas Fern

Part Sun - Shrubs
St. John’s Wort
Summersweet Clethra
Virginia Sweetspire
High-bush Blueberry
Mountain Laurel

Moist Slopes –
Dog Hobble (Leucothoe)
Rhododendron

Part Shade Groundcover – No Mow Lawn
Fescue blend – Hard,
Creeping Red,
Chewings
Low Maintenance
Not good for wet site
Can plant with
wildflowers

What to do with a Sunny, Cut Slope?

Meadow Plants – Full Sun
Little Bluestem, Switchgrass,
Muhley Grass
Wildflowers – Liatris, Echinacea,
Asters, Coreopsis, Goldenrod, etc.

Massed Switchgrass & Red Twig Dogwood

Non-natives:
Winter Heath, Lavender

Hillside Planting Tips
• For very steep slopes, use jute staked down
and cut holes/plant through it
• Plant from the top down so you don’t tread
on those newly planted
• Place lower maintenance plants at top of
slope, higher maintenance plants at bottom

Hillside Watering Tips
• Plant with dam or water well to retain
water (roof shingles have been suggested)
• Water in cycles to avoid runoff – check
what is absorbed – give a couple hours rest
– then repeat in cycles
• Drip hose placed at top of hill, lets water
run down hill

Traditional Groundcovers
• Juniper – ok if full sun and good drainage
• Ivy – Invasive!
• Vinca – less, but still Invasive!
• Cotoneaster – Collects leaves and gets Lacebug
• Ajuga – Spreads too easily
• Liriope – ok for a non-native
• Pachysandra – the non-native is ok, but try the
native
• Winter Creeper – this is an Invasive!

Shaded Area Groundcovers - Natives
Christmas Fern
New York Fern
Sedges
Dwarf Crested Iris
Woodland Phlox
Creeping Geranium
Native Pachysandra

Partial Shade – Northern Exposure
Native Rhododendron
Flame Azalea
Leucothoe
Silver-leaf Hydrangea

Native Ferns
Christmas Fern, New York Fern, Lady Fern, Cinnamon Fern,
Goldie’s Fern, Marginal Wood Fern, Fancy Fern, Log Fern,

Southern Highland
Reserve,
Toxaway Mountain

The “Dirty Dozen” …
of Invasive Plants
• Some of which are sold in the landscape trade
• Some that you might have in your garden
• Some that you love from your childhood
• All for which there are good alternatives!

English Ivy
• Hedera helix
• Evergreen vine that can grow to
100 feet in length
• Can invade woodlands, fields and
other upland areas
• It can grow both along the ground,
where it can displace native
understory species, and in the tree
canopy, often covering branches
and slowly killing trees
• Native to Europe and was
introduced into America by early
settlers for ornamental purposes

Instead of English Ivy
Native Pachysandra, Virginia Creeper, Native Ferns,
Partridgeberry, Sedges, Foam Flower, Creeping Phlox, Woodland
Geranium

Non-native Honeysuckles
• Lonicera fragrantissima, L. japonica,
L. maaki, L. morrowii
• Evergreen to semi-evergreen vine that
can be found either trailing or climbing
to heights of over 80 feet (or shrub
varieties)
• Vine invades a variety of habitats
including forest floors and canopies,
roadsides, wetlands, and disturbed
areas. It can girdle small saplings by
twining around them and can form
dense mats in the canopies of trees,
shading everything below
• Shrubs readily invade open woodlands,
old fields and other disturbed sites and
can spread rapidly due to the seeds
being dispersed by birds and mammals
• Shrubs introduced in the 1700’s and
vine in early 1800’s. Honeysuckle have
been planted widely throughout the
United States as an ornamental, for
erosion control, and for wildlife habitat.

Instead of Japanese Honeysuckle …
Coral Honeysuckle, Summersweet,
Spicebush, Sweetshrub

Multiflora Rose
• Rosa multiflora
• Multi-stemmed thorny,
perennial shrub that grows up
to 15 feet tall
• Forms impenetrable thickets in
pastures, fields and forest edges.
It restricts human, livestock and
wildlife movement and
displaces native vegetation.
• Native to Asia and was first
introduced to America in 1866
as rootstock for ornamental
roses. During the mid 1900s it
was widely planted as a “living
fence” for livestock control and
it has also been used for erosion
control.

Instead of Multiflora Rose …
Blackberry, Flowering Raspberry, Pasture rose, Swamp Rose

Mimosa
• Albizia julibrissin
• Mimosa invades any type of
disturbed habitat. It is commonly
found in old fields, stream banks,
and roadsides.
• Once established, mimosa is
difficult to remove due to the long
lived seeds and its ability to re-
sprout vigorously. Said to be one
of biggest invasive problems in the
Smokies!
introduced into the U.S. in 1745
and has been used as an
ornamental.

Princess Tree
• Paulownia tomentosa
• Deciduous tree, growing up to
60 feet in height and 2 feet in
diameter. Princess tree is easily
recognized by its opposite,
fuzzy, large (6 to 12 inches
long), heart-shaped leaves and
showy, erect, pale-violet flowers
• Invades roadsides, stream
banks, forest edges, and other
disturbed areas, but has the
ability to invade a wide variety
of places.
• Native to eastern Asia and was
first introduced into America in
the early 1800s for ornamental
purposes and as a potential
export for carving wood

Instead of Mimosa or
Princess Tree …
Serviceberry,
River Birch,
Redbud,
Sweetbay
Magnolia,
Sourwood,
Dogwood

Burning Bush
• Euonymous alata
• Deciduous shrub, up to 20 feet in
height, which invades forests
throughout the eastern United
States
• Can invade a variety of disturbed
habitats including forest edges, old
fields, and roadsides. The seeds are
readily dispersed by birds, allowing
for many long dispersal events.
Once established, it can form dense
thickets that displace native
vegetation
• Native to northeastern Asia and was
first introduced into America in the
1860s for ornamental purposes. It
currently continues to be sold and
planted as a ornamental or roadside
hedge.

Instead of Burning Bush …
Fothergilla
Virginia Sweetspire
High Bush Blueberry
Chokeberry

Japanese Spirea
• Spirea japonica
• Small, deciduous shrub (up to 6 feet
tall) that invades a variety of habitats
throughout the eastern United States
• Japanese spiraea invades a variety of
habitats including fields, forests,
stream banks, and many disturbed
areas. Once established, it can form
dense stands which displace native
vegetation and close open areas
• Native to eastern Asia and was first
introduced into the United States
around 1879 as an ornamental.

Barberry
• Berberis japonica
• Small deciduous shrub from 2
to 8 feet tall
• Japanese barberry invades a
variety of habitats from shaded
woodlands to open fields and
wetlands.
• It is very shade-tolerant and can
form dense stands which shade
out and displace native species.
The berries are readily eaten
and dispersed by birds, allowed
Japanese barberry to spread
rapidly
introduced into America in 1864
as an ornamental. It is still
widely planted for landscaping
and hedges.

Instead of Spirea or Barberry …
Summersweet, Virginia Sweetspire,
St John’s Wort, Fothergilla or
masses of native perennials

Wisteria
• Wisteria sinensis and Wisteria
floribunda
• Deciduous woody vine capable
of growing to 70 feet long
• Invasions often occur around
previous plantings. Chinese and
Japanese wisteria can displace
native vegetation and kill trees
and shrubs by girdling them.
• They have the ability to change
the structure of a forest by
killing trees and altering the
light availability to the forest
floor.
• Natives of Japan and China,
first introduced into America
around 1830 for ornamental
purposes

Instead of Chinese or Japanese
Wisteria
Crossvine, Coral Honeysuckle,
American Wisteria, Carolina Jessamine

Bradford Pear
• Pyrus calleryana
• Ornamental deciduous tree with some
non-sterile cultivars that have escaped
and are invading natural areas
throughout the eastern United States
• The “Bradford” variety of pear, which
produced sterile fruits, has been widely
planted throughout America since the
early 1900s, but recent cultivars, bred
to reduce the tendency of the tree to
split in snow or high winds, have
produced viable seeds and escaped to
invade disturbed areas.

Instead of Bradford Pear …
Serviceberry, Dogwood, Fringe Tree,
Arrowwood Viburnum

Tree of Heaven
• Ailanthus altissima
• Rapidly growing small tree but
can reach up to 80 feet in height
and 6 feet in diameter
• It is extremely tolerant of poor
soil conditions and has been
known to grow even in cement
cracks.
• It cannot grow in shaded
conditions but thrives in
disturbed forests or edges.
Dense clonal thickets displace
native species and can rapidly
take over fields and meadows.
• Native to Asia, was first
introduced into America in 1748
by a Pennsylvania gardener. It
was widely planted in cities
because of its ability to grow in
poor conditions

Instead of Tree of Heaven
Box Elder, Ash, Black Walnut,
Smooth Sumac

Japanese Silver Grass
• Miscanthus sinensis
• a tall (up to 10 feet), densely-
bunched grass that invades forest
edges, old fields, and other
disturbed areas throughout the
United States
• It escapes from ornamental
plantings where it forms large
clumps along disturbed areas
displacing native vegetation.
• The grass is also extremely
flammable and increases fire risks
of invaded areas.
• Native to Asia and was introduced
into the United States for
ornamental purposes.

Instead of Miscanthus
Switchgrass, Little Blue Stem, Muhly Grass

Privet
• Ligustrum lucidum, L. japonicum
and L. sinense
• Thick, semi-evergreen shrub to 30
feet in height
• It commonly forms dense thickets
in the fields or in the understory of
forests.
• It shades and out competes many
native species and, once
established, is very difficult to
remove.
• Introduced into the United States
in the early 1800s. It is commonly
used as an ornamental shrub and
for hedgerows

Instead of Privet …
Winterberry Holly
Possomhaw Viburnum
Chokeberry
Inkberry Holly

Some other plants of concern …
• Periwinkle (Vinca major, minor)
• Japanese Stilt Grass
(Microstegium vimineum)
• Oriental bittersweet (Celastrus
orbiculata)
• Butterfly Bush (Buddleia –
straight species)
• Spreading Euonymous
(Euonymus fortunei)
• Heavenly Bamboo (Nandina)

Rehabilitation and Restoration
• Replace invasive plants you have removed
with non-invasive, and if possible, native
plants, in order to:
– Control erosion
– Fill space so invasives don’t return

Replacement Plant Material
• Know your plants’ identities and habits
• Buy nursery-propagated plant material and know
the identity of the plants you install
• Learn about native plants and match them with
site conditions
• Use plants that occur together in natural habitats
• Beware of the “Trojan Horse” – if it sounds too
good to be true, it probably is

New Plant Selection
• Choose drought-resistant plants to lower your
maintenance costs
• Choose plants with ultimate size in mind – consider the
many dwarf evergreens
• Consider selection for seasonal interest and color – not
just spring and summer flower, and fall color, but berries,
interesting bark, seed heads, etc.
• Use natives where possible – they are more drought
resistant and you won’t spread competing species to
naturalized areas; remove invasives!
• If deer are a problem – your selection will be limited!

In Summary
• A successful garden design relies on getting
a good handle on your requirements and
performing a thorough site analysis
• Garden design is an iterative process – it
relies on principles of all good design
• Planting design relies on these principles as
well – most importantly keep it simple and
use the right plant/right place

Design Principles Review
• Garden and planting design relies on principles of all good
design:
– Keep the garden elements in Balance
– Keep Scale and Proportion in mind; think rooms, each
with an appropriately sized Focal Point
– Keep it simple – look for Unifying elements such as
Repetition, Rhythm and Transition
– Provide Contrast through color, texture and all season
interest

Some questions to ask about
your garden …
• Is there a strong focal point, or is everything
about equal in weight?
– If the latter, consider adding a specimen plant,
a beautiful outdoor sculpture, or a showy
container planting
• Is the garden too busy with color or texture?
– Move plants around to create more unity, or
add a few repeating plants

More questions …
• Is there adequate contrast?
– Maybe adding perennials would bring more
depth through varying textures
• Are the plants in proportion to the house?
Are the plants a livable scale?
– If you have overgrown plants, consider
removing them and replace them with
varieties that won’t overwhelm

Enjoy
your
garden …
Give fools their
gold, and knaves
their power;
let fortune’s
bubbles rise and
fall.
Who sows a field,
or trains a flower,
or plants a tree,
is more than all
…”
John Greenleaf
Whittier

Mountain garden design for mgv2016

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