The document provides information on growing vegetables in the cool season. It recommends planting cool season crops like lettuce, broccoli and cabbage in early spring and late summer/fall to harvest through early summer and into winter. It provides details on planting dates and durations for various cool season vegetables and covers considerations like watering and fertilization to maximize harvest.

2. Good soil is the backbone of a
healthy, productive vegetable
gardening
Good soil = drains well but also
can hold water and nutrients and
support beneficial microorganisms
Sand = cannot not hold water or
nutrients!
What’s missing? ORGANIC
MATTER!

3. Organic matter improves all soils!
Cultivate at least 6”- 8” deep with
a tiller or just a shovel.
Add each year
25%-50% by volume
Example: if tilling 8” deep, 2”-4”
of compost should be
incorporated into soil

4. Green Manures
Grown on site and tilled in green
(mow first)
E.g. Cowpeas, soybeans, millet –
summer; oats, hairy vetch,
crimson clover – fall & winter
Till in before seed set!
Crimson Clover

5. Cover Crops
Grown in empty spaces to prevent
soil erosion and keep nutrients in
soil
Very similar to green manures –
not incorporated green
Sometimes not incorporated at all
– cover crop is killed and
vegetables are planted into debris
Want to grow cover crop or green
manure in each area of garden at
least once per year
Millet

10. What to grow and how
much
When to plant
Crop rotation

11. What will grow in our climate
What you will use/need (eat
fresh, can/pickle, sale, share)
How much will you use?
Use yield information and
personal needs to decide
how much to plant
Always better to start small!

12. Seed
Some vegetables are sown directly
into the garden to grow in place
These typically grow from large
seed and fast to grow (eg.
cucumbers), or do not like to be
transplanted (root crops)
Transplants
Other vegetables are planted in the
garden as small plants, called
transplants
Slower growing plants or plants with
smaller seed

13. Seed Sown Direct
 Radish
 Rutabaga
 Turnips
 Mustard
 Carrots
 Garden Peas
 Beans and Field Peas
 Peanuts
 Sweet Corn
 Potatoes
As Transplants
 Tomatoes
 Peppers
 Eggplants
 Broccoli
 Cauliflower
 Cabbage
 Collards
 Kale
 Sweet Potatoes
 Okra

14. Lettuce and Spinach
 Can be planted as single plants or
sown direct as ‘bed’ – common
method for Mesclun mixes
Cucumbers, Squash, Zucchini,
Pumpkins, Melons
 Large, fast growing seed, easy to
start in small pots, ready to transplant
in 2-3 weeks
Onion and Garlic
Planted from ‘cloves’ and ‘sets’ =
small bulbs. Onion can also be
grown from seed.

15. Open Pollinated
‘Heirloom’ varieties – can save own seed and
varieties will come true to type
Hybrid
Result of a cross between 2 or more parents –
saved seed do not come true
Usually more uniform, more vigorous, more
disease resistant
F1 Hybrid
Specific type of hybrid – first generation
Usually much more expensive!

16. When to plant depends
on what you are growing:
Cool Season crops
grow fall – spring
e.g. lettuce, broccoli, cabbage, onions
Warm Season crops
grow spring (after frost) – fall
e.g. corn, melons, squash, peppers,
tomatoes

17. Problem: plant all plants at one time = all are ready
for harvest at the same time!
Solution: Successive Plantings
Stagger plantings so have new plants coming into
production every couple of weeks
Extends harvest season

18. How often to plant depends on
how quickly crops grow:
Quick maturing crops
Mature in 30-60 days
Make successive plantings every 7-14 days for
continuous harvest
Lettuce, radish, mustard
Moderate and Long season crops
Mature in 60 – 100 days
Make successive plantings 2-3 weeks apart
Melons, tomatoes, peppers, broccoli, collards

19. Early Spring: Feb, Early March
Plant cool season crops outside to
harvest through early summer (June)
Spring: April, May
Plant warm season crops
outside to produce through summer
(usually finish by August)
Late Summer: Aug, Sept
Plant quick maturing warm season crops to harvest
through first frost
Plant cool season crops
Quick maturing, half hardy – harvest in fall through Dec.
Long season, hardy – stand through winter

20. Do not grow same crop or crop
from same family in same spot
year after year
Rotate areas crops are grown
Reduces pest problems
Insects, diseases, and weeds
Must know which plants are
related to plan rotation

21. Brassicas (Mustard Family):
Broccoli, Brussel Sprouts, Cauliflower,
Cabbage, Collards, Kale, Mustard,
Radish, Turnips, Rutabaga, Kohlrabi
Cucurbits (Squash Family):
Cucumbers, Squash, Zucchini,
Winter Squash, Pumpkins, Cantaloupe,
Watermelons

22. Solanaceous (Nightshade Family)
Tomatoes, Peppers, Eggplant,
Potatoes
Legumes (Bean Family)
Garden peas, peanuts, green beans,
lima beans, southern peas
Alliums (Onion Family)
Onions, garlic, leeks, scallions

23. Vegetables with no
close relatives:
Lettuce, endive
Sweet Corn
Sweet Potato
Okra
Carrots (related to dill, fennel,
parsley)
Spinach
Swiss Chard and Beets

24. Divide growing area into separate spaces
Example, if have 4 raised beds, come up with
a 4 year plan
Must consider different seasons
Designate cool season and warm season
crops for each bed

25. Year 1 Year 2
Tomatoes,
Peppers,
Egglplants -
summer
Potatoes -
winter
Tomatoes,
Peppers,
Egglplants -
summer
Potatoes -
winter
Squash,
Cucumbers,
Melons -
summer
Green manure -
winter
Squash,
Cucumbers,
Melons –
summer
Green Manure
- Winter
Corn –
summer
Spinach,
Lettuce -
Fall
Corn –
summer
Spinach,
Lettuce -
Fall
Beans –
summer
Brassicas
– fall and
winter
Beans –
summer
Brassicas
– fall and
winter
1 2 1
23 34
4

26. Let’s Discuss:
Nutrition, Watering
and Fertilization

27. Always start with soil
sampling!
Base rates on soil test results and
recommendations for crop
Terms:
Pre-plant – incorporated into soil
before planting
Side-dress – applied to
surface of soil after
crops planted

28. • Most vegetables grow best at a
pH of 6.0 to 6.5
• IF pH is lower than 6.0, Lime
should be tilled into the soil
• Dolomitic lime supplies Calcium
and Magnesium, and raises pH
• Blossom End Rot: melons,
peppers, tomatoes =
low calcium

29. Fertilizers are usually needed to supply some
of the nutrients plants need
Both organic and synthetic fertilizers are
available
Synthetic fertilizers usually have higher
concentrations of nutrients
Organic fertilizers are better for the soil
(encourage microorganisms) and are less likely
to cause water pollution

30. Slow release fertilizers
 Release nutrients over an extended period of time
 Work great but are more expensive
 Highly recommended in sandy soils
 Coated fertilizers like Osmocote and organic fertilizers
Soluble Fertilizers
 Applied as granules but dissolve readily in water
 10-10-10
Liquid Fertilizers
 e.g. Manure Tea, Fish Emulsion, Miracle Grow
 Only provide a quick feed, only good for a fast boost

31. For both organic and synthetic
fertilizers, analysis (nutrient
content) must be stated on bag.
E.g. 32-10-10
Numbers are percentages
(32%)
Always represent Nitrogen,
Phosphorus and Potassium,
always in that order

32. Nitrogen (N) 10 – 10 - 10
Green leafy growth
Quick growing, leafy crops need more
Lettuce, spinach, cabbage
Too much can cause plants to shed
flowers and not set fruit (tomatoes, beans
especially)
Leaches readily – slow release forms
better

33. Nitrogen (N) 10 – 10 - 10
Deficiency symptom: yellowing,
starts on lower leaves and works
way up the plant
Plants stunted, fail to grow
If soil is well prepared and plants
are watered but fail to grow,
Nitrogen deficiency is a likely
cause
Apply soluble form of N for quick
boost= manure tea, fish
emulsion, Miracle Grow type
synthetic fertilizers

34. Phosphorous (P) 10 – 10 - 10
Root, Flower and Seed/Fruit
development
Apply ONLY if soil test indicates
need!
Should be tilled in – not water
soluble
Need soil test results before
prepare soil, to know if you need to
till Phosphorous and lime into the
soil

35. Potassium (K) 10 – 10 - 10
Increases disease resistance,
cold hardiness, and drought tolerance
Also known as Potash
Improves flavor of many crops
(tomatoes, melons)
Leaches at a moderate rate
Most sandy soils need annual
application

36. Most vegetables require ~ 1” water
per week from rain or irrigation
Keep top 1’ of soil consistently moist
Soaker hoses work well
Do not wet foliage = Reduces
disease problems
Less water lost through evaporation
Place close to base of plants
Mulch will help conserve moisture

37. Beneficial!
Any biodegradable matter,
2”-4”
Grass clippings (aged): No
Herbicides!
Newspaper
Straw
Till in at end of season

38. Cool Season Crops
Fast maturing for spring and
fall
Long season, winter hardy
Moderate season for spring
and fall
Spring only crops
Warm Season Crops
Summer
Long & Short Season

40. Prefer to grow during cooler times of the year: Fall
and Spring
Tolerate some level of frost
Half-hardy: tolerate light frost, usually productive
through December
Hardy: tolerate heavy frost, can produce through
winter

41. Successive sowings for
continuous harvest:
Radish – 30 days
Mustard – 30 days
Lettuce (leaf) and mesclun –
30-50 days
Spinach – 50-60 days (hardy)
Green Onions (Scallions) – 30 days

42. Mature in 25 – 30 days, sow Sept. 1
through Nov. 1, and Feb. 1 – April 1
Hot temps, water stress can cause
strong flavor and woody texture
Harvest when 1” in diameter
Daikon: long white radish, mild flavor
 Grow like radish but takes longer to
mature

43. Only moderately frost tolerant – extend
harvest by using row cover in winter
Seed need light to germinate –
pelleted/primed seed are easier to grow
Likes constant supply of Nitrogen
and soils with good organic matter content
Grows well in containers
If bitter, store in refrigerator a
few days

44. Mature in 30-50 days, sow late
Aug. – mid Sept. and Feb -
March
Do not form dense heads
Easiest – seed mixes available
Many color variations, leaf
shapes
Can plant in rows or ‘patch’
Make successive sowings
every 2
weeks for extended
harvest

45. Romaine/Cos and
Buttercrunch/Bibb do well
Romaine mature in 50-60 days,
sow late August and Feb
Bibb types mature in 40-50
days, sow late August
Iceberg is finicky in our area

46. Arugula/Roquette
Matures in 50 days, sow direct in
garden late Aug – late Sept., Feb -
April
Pungent, spicy taste
Mesclun Mixes
Seed mixes of several types of
salad greens, may include lettuce
Grow in patches like leaf lettuce

47. Mature in 35-50 days, sow
direct in patches late August –
mid Oct., Feb - March
Sow new patch every couple
of weeks for extended harvest
Can be grown mixed together
or separate
Some turnip varieties only
produce greens – no roots
Mustard leaves
have curly edges
Turnip greens are
slightly prickly

48. Matures 30-40 days, sow
mid Sept through early
Nov., Feb - March
Very cold hardy
Need fresh seed
Grow in rows or 12” wide
beds – sow new rows every
couple of weeks

49. Broccoli – 70 – 80 days
Cauliflower (better in Fall) – 60
days
Turnips – 60 days for roots
Kohlrabi – 60 days
Look out for loopers on all
Brassicas
DiPel (B.t.) = natural
disease that only kills
caterpillars

50. Matures in 50-70 days, start seed
in early August, set out
homegrown or purchased
transplants mid August – mid
September
Half hardy – harvest through Dec.
Heavy feeder – needs consistent
nitrogen
Plant in rows, every 2 weeks
After harvest main head, side
shoots will develop

51. Matures in 55-65 days, start
seed in early August, set
out homegrown or
purchased transplants late
Aug – mid Sept.
Fall is the best time to grow
cauliflower! Heads are frost
sensitive
Stress will cause ‘buttoning’
Remove after harvesting

52. • Rutabaga: Mature in 90
days, sow in early to late
August
• Harvest when size of a
softball
• Kohlrabi: Mature in 45 days,
sow mid August through mid
Oct.
• Edible part is swollen stem
above soil level

53. Mature in 40-50 days, sow
late Aug. through mid Oct.
Harvest when size of
tennis ball
Can also harvest greens –
over harvest of greens
reduces root size

54. Plant late summer,
stand through winter
Brussel Sprouts – 100 days
Collards – 100 days
Kale - 50 days
Can have separate
spring and fall crops
Cabbage – 70 – 80 days
Can have separate
spring and fall crops

55. Mature in 65-90 days, sow in early
Aug. or set out transplants in late
Aug. – early Sept. Spring crop set
out Feb – early March
Consistent moisture and nutrients
results in high quality heads
Most varieties very hardy, can stay
in garden through winter
Chinese cabbage do well in fall –
less frost hardy

56. Mature in 55-75 days,
sow in early Aug. or set
out transplants in early
Sept. – early Oct. Spring
crop set out mid Feb -
March
Plant in rows, every few
weeks
Very cold hardy will
produce through winter

57. Mature in 85-110 days,
sow seed in early-mid
Aug., plant homegrown
or purchased transplants
in early – mid Sept.
Harvest in spring
Very cold hardy

58. Many are small and green! Be on the lookout!
All become moths
Organic Control
B.t. (Bacillus thuringiensis)= natural bacterial disease
that only kills caterpillars
Dipel, Worm Whipper
Spinosad – another bacterial disease
Several brands
Neem and Pyrellin – plant based
Chemical pesticides: Sevin (carbaryl),
esfenvalerate, malathion

59. • Mature in 60-90 days, can
leave fall crops in ground
through winter
• Best in well amended, sandy
soils
• Sow in place, slow to germinate
• August for fall crops
• Feb/March for spring crops
• Sow shallow, keep moist
• Pelleted seed are easier
• Shorter varieties easier

60.  Mature in 30 days, but
can stay in garden all
winter
 Sow seed in late August
or plant transplants in
Oct.
 Can have second spring
crop, sow/plant in March
 Harvest by picking leaves
 Varieties with colorful mid
ribs available

61. Mature in 45 – 55
days, sow early –
late August for fall,
mid Feb – mid March
for spring crops
Can also harvest
greens

62. Onions, Garlic, Leeks
Some do best in our area when fall planted!
Harvested in spring
Heavy feeders – like lots of organic matter
and consistent moisture and nutrients
Need good drainage

63.  Sow seed directly into gardenSow seed directly into garden
from early to late October tofrom early to late October to
harvest in April-Mayharvest in April-May
 Short Day varieties: ‘Grano’,
‘Granex’, ‘Texas Super
Sweet’
 Seed are usually more
successful and cost less than
growing from sets
 Thin in Jan to 4” apart for
larger bulbs
 Need lots of Nitrogen in
spring, but no sulfur
Onion Sets

64. Plant in Sept/Oct to harvest
in late spring
Grown from cloves
Soft Neck varieties grow
best in the south – have
stronger flavor
Elephant garlic also does
well – very large
with mild flavor

65. Sow direct in
garden or start
transplants late
August – Sept.
Plant in a shallow
trench
Fill soil in around
as leeks grow
up to
produce long white
shanks
Stays in ground all
winter, harvest late
winter-spring

66. Garden and Snap Peas
60 days
Sow lt. Jan - early Feb.
Powdery Mildew a problem on later
crops
Vine support, grow 3’-4’
Potatoes – 90 – 120 days
Start with certified seed potatoes,
Feb.
Mound soil around plants through the
growing season for more production

67. Mound soil – all potatoes develop between ‘seed’
and soil level

68. From last frost
until first frost

69. Cannot tolerate frost
Need warm (70’s – 80’s) temps to grow well,
and warm soil temperatures
Soil warms up slower than air
Hot temperatures will reduce production (mid
90’s and above)
Will usually see drop in production after a
heat wave

70. Cucumbers – 40-50 days
Summer Squash and Zucchini
– 40 - 50 days
Very productive – 1-2 plants
enough!
Plant up to cotyledons or sow
direct

71. Seed leaves, first
leaves to emerge
Look different than
‘true’ leaves
Turn yellow and shrivel
up a few weeks after
coming up
Plant cukes, squash,
melons, pumpkins up
to the cotyledons for
healthier plants
www.istockphoto.com
Cotyledon
True Leaf
Plant up to
here

72. Downy Mildew –
cucumbers
Effects pickling
cucumbers worse
Late crops often
wiped out – very
prevalent by mid
summer
No way for
homeowners to treat

73. Squash Vine Borer
– squash and
zucchini
Plant as early as
possible
Rotate!!!
Cover plants with row
cover when adults
active

74. Plant April – May
Need lots of space
In blocks of at least 3-4
rows
Wind pollinated
Each silk = kernel
Lots of Nitrogen (slow
release)
Stagger plantings every 2
weeks
Tassels
Silks

75. Sugary Varieties (SU1)
Traditional – sugars break down
quickly
Silver Queen, Seneca Chief
Sugary Enhanced (Se)
Higher levels of sugar
Bodacious, Legend
Super-sweet Varieties (sh2)
More sugar than SU1 and does
not break down rapidly
Serendipity

76. Beans - Lima, Butter, Green
Inoculate seed with nitrogen
fixing bacteria
Butter/Lima beans don’t
produce in hot weather
Bush and pole varieties
Southern Peas
Field Peas, Black Eye Peas
Need warm soils
Peanuts
Peanut Plant

77. Disease problems are
challenging
Disease resistance
 V - Verticillium
 F - Fusarium
 N - Nematodes
 TSW – Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus
Many foliar diseases
 Follow good cultural practices – fungicides may
be necessary, especially by mid-late summer
Other diseases are soil born – live in soil
 Rotate crops
 Consider growing in large containers

78. Determinate – mature crop all at
once
Indeterminate – successive crops
Large Fruited
 ‘Better Boy’ – V,F,N, indeterminate
 ‘Celebrity’ – V,F,N
Paste Tomatoes (Roma or Pear)
 For cooking and canning
Cherry Tomatoes
 Easiest!, most are indeterminate
 Best type for beginners!

79. Heirlooms
Flavor but no disease
resistance
Open pollinated
‘German Johnson’,
‘Brandywine’, ‘Cherokee
Purple’, ‘Mortgage Saver’

80. Bell Peppers and Hot
Peppers
Generally easy
Hot peppers have good
drought resistance
Very productive when
fertilized
Eggplant
Wait to plant when really
warm
Fall crops do well, plant mid
summer

81. Need lots of space
Buy certified slips (cuttings)
Keep watered first few days
Mulch well
‘Beauregard’, ‘Jewell’, ‘Puerto Rico’
Cure to increase sugar content
Harvest (don’t wash), store in garage or
shed (80°) with damp burlap over top
Deer love sweet potato vines!

82. • Wait till really
warm to plant
• Nematodes
common problem
• Rotate crops
• Incorporate
organic matter
• Tall plants with
spines, related to
cotton
Root Knot Nematodes

83. Wait until really warm to plant
N-P-K important
Cantaloupe
Prefer drier conditions
Watermelons
Consistent moisture
Seedless varieties are more finicky
‘Crimson Sweet’, ‘Jubilee’ - reliable

84. Heavy Feeders
Start early to avoid vine
borer
But soil needs to be warm
Gourds (ornamental) are
easiest
Pumpkin and winter squash
often require fungicide
sprays to control foliar
diseases

85. • Asparagus
• Need soil high in organic
matter
• Mulch with compost
• Plant crowns in early spring
• Wait 2 years to harvest
• Keep moist, afternoon
shade okay
• Harvest spears in spring
• Male varieties more
productive