Industrial attachment of cotton club bd ltd

INDUSTRIAL TRAINING
Course Code: Tex -4036
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT OF COTTON CLUB (BD) LTD.

PART-A
INTRODUCTION
Bangladesh is one of the leading readymade garments exporters of the world. Every year Bangladesh exports more than one third of the total garments requirement of the RMG market of the world. Every year Bangladesh earns more than 76% of its foreign currency from this sector .That is why the study of garments technology does deserve well practical practice. So our university provides 6 weeks industrial training in a RMG factory. As a student of garment technology I have completed this industrial training in COTTON CLUB (BD) LTD From garments making to decorating garments with embroidery is a truly Exclusive fashion house that deals with lots of stuff like fabric quality, garments quality, dyeing quality, washing quality. The Garments Division has the capability to offer a complete product range for the 100% export to EU & USA market. The vision of the Garment Division is to become the preferred partner for sourcing high quality value added garments from Bangladesh. With an urge to developing local human resource, the Garments Division has the potential to make an important contribution to the nation’s growing RMG export sector to make it more competitive

Chapter One
Training Background
This chapter begins with explaining the purpose of the report; followed by its scope and limitations. It ends by mentioning the students’ responsibilities in training program and institution partnership with the company.
Background Training Program
After successfully completing the B.Sc. in Textile Engineering course from Primeasia University, every student have to take part in 42 days Industrial Attachment Training Program. For this training program the students are divided into several groups and the groups of students are sent to the large and famous Textile Industries for practical training.
Purpose
The Industrial Attachment program fulfills part of the requirement in pursuing the degree of Bachelor of Applied Science (B.Sc in Textile Engineering) in Primeasia University. This report serves to summaries the activities and experiences gained with Cotton Club (BD) Ltd.
Scope and Limitations
During the industrial attachment training, we, a group of two students of Primeasia University & other University were involved in training through the whole factory. This report will only cover parts of the project, which were done by the students. The experience gained during the attachment had helped the students to fulfill the objectives of the attachment. However, due to unforeseen circumstances, the commencement of the attachment was delayed. This resulted in a shortage of time for the completion of the project. Therefore, this report will be limited to the stages of implementation prior to the date of reporting. Further work and research that done after the date of reporting is not described fully in this report. The emphasis of this report will be on the research done by the students, in addition to the experience that they gained during the attachment. Frequent references will be made with regards to these concepts.
Students’ Responsibilities
With the four years education in the institution students gain much theoretical knowledge. For the fulfillment of B.sc in Textile Engineering course the Industrial Attachment Training program plays a vital role. It gives the students a lot of practical knowledge and introduces with the factory environment. In this training program the students has much responsibilities. They have to learn about all the process going on in the factory, all the machineries used, faults and remedies in the different sections, administrations, utilities, costing of the products. Finally students have to make a report on whole training program.
Institution Partnerships
Cotton Club (BD) Ltd has an extensive network of relationships with selected departments in leading academic institutions in Bangladesh, and invests considerable resources to support them. They are important to Primeasia University because it shares with the academic community a concern to foster innovative research, and to develop the skills and experience of the people involved in its generation and transfer. Over the past 10 years CCL has built up a portfolio of programs to encourage collaboration with universities across a broad spectrum of mutually beneficial activities. Every year CCL hosts the students of PAU who work as internee to gain industrial experience for their academic qualifications. It is hoped that this relationship will be increased day by day.

Chapter Two
Company Details
This chapter will give a brief introduction on the history of Cotton Club (BD) Ltd., the attached company, Factory profile, No. of Employers and workers, their responsibilities, Organogram of different sections of the factory and Head office, types of production and marketing, etc.

History of Cotton Club Ltd
Cotton Club Ltd established in the year 2006, the quality standards and is engaged in manufacturing of all kinds of knitted garments. Under the profound guidance of their mentor Haji Abdul Majid Mondol (Chairman of Mondol Group, established in 1991), their company has gained an immense success and has earned goodwill with twenty years of experience in the garments industries. The Chairman is guiding their team with his wide experience and skill. Their product is made using top quality yarn that is procured from reliable sources across world. They make use of world class in-house infrastructure and modern machines as well as simple hand tools that helps in producing high quality fabric in large volumes and varieties. They are dedicated to offer timely delivery of goods and services at affordable prices.
Mission
Cotton Club Ltd. mission is to enrich the quality of life of people through responsible application of knowledge, skills and technology. Cotton Club Ltd. is committed to the pursuit of excellence through world- class products, innovative processes and empowered employees to provide the highest level of satisfaction to its customers.
Vision
Cotton Club (BD) Ltd will endeavor to attain a position of leadership in each category of its businesses.
Values Strong work force that ensures quality finished fabric.
Major Competitor
Cotton Club ltd company is a fully export oriented company so they have face both local and international competition locally. There are many company compete with the Cotton Club ltd company those are India, Pakistan, Koria, Thailand, China and in locally beximco, DBL Group, Anlima Group, Jalima Group, Square Textile, Robin Tex ,ACS Textile.etc.

General Information of Factory:
Board of Directors of Cotton Club (BD) Ltd.

Man Power
Cotton Club (BD) Ltd. Staffs of all section’s

8
Cotton Club (BD) Ltd. Workers of all section:
Total Manpower of Cotton Club (BD) Ltd.
Cotton Clout (BD) Ltd. Staffs of all section’s

9
Cotton Clout (BD) Ltd. Workers of all section:
Total Manpower of Cotton Clout (BD) Ltd
Grand Total:

10
Organogram of all division:
Organogram of Head Office:

11
ORGANOGRAM OF ADMIN AND PRODUCTION:

12
ORGANOGRAM OF GARMENTS DIVISION:

13
ORGANOGRAM OF DYEING DIVISION:

14
ORGANOGRAM OF KNITTING DIVISION:

15
Duties and Responsibilities of Different Working Personnel:

18
Machine Details in all sections:
Knitting Machines:
Dyeing Machines:

19
Sewing, Cutting and Finishing Machines:

20
Embroidery and Printing Machinery:
Power/ Utility:
Production Related Information:

21
Buyer and Exporting Country:
Certificate Gain:
Bank Details:

22
Sister Concerns of Mondol Group:
Tropical Knit Composite Ltd.

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PART-B
CHAPTER-1
KNITTING SECTION
This chapter begins with the fundamentals of knitting, then it goes with
different types of fabrics produced in the Cotton Club and machines used
for preparation of those and specification, manufacturing country and uses.
Here different knitting terms, notation of fabric with cam arrangement are
briefly discussed. This chapter ends with the faults of knitting and their
remedie
Definition of Knitting Technology:
Weaving and knitting is different for the interlacing techniques of yarn. In weaving it needs warp
and weft yarn for produce woven fabric but in knitting, fabrics are produced from a series of yarn
in warp or weft directions. Knitting techniques can be defined as follow.
The processes in which fabrics are produced by set of connect loops from a series of yarns in
warp or weft direction is defined as knitting. Different knitting machines are use to perform this
techniques.
Types of Knitted Fabrics:
Mainly two types of knitted fabrics are produced. They are as follow:
Warp knitted fabrics:
In a warp knitted structure, each loop in the horizontal direction is made from different thread and
the number of thread used to produce such a fabric is at least equal to the numbers of loops in
horizontal row.
Weft knitted fabrics:
A horizontal row of loops can be made using one thread runs in horizontal direction. The fabric
structure is different from one from another. Weft knitted fabrics are widely use.

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Knitted Fabrics Produced in Cotton Club (BD) Ltd.:
The following types of fabrics are generally produced in Cotton Club.
1. Single Jersey
a) Plain Single Jersey
b) Single Jersey with Lycra
c) Single Lacoste
d) Double Lacoste
e) Single Pique
f) Double Pique
g) Polo Pique
h) French Terry
i) Terry with Lycra
j) Fleece
k) Fleece with Lycra
2. Double Jersey
a) Rib Fabric
b) Interlock Fabric
c) Collar and Cuff

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Different Types Knitted Fabric:

26
Process Flow Chart of Knitting:
Fabric manufacturing methods are divided into three types; they are as weaving, knitting and
non-weaving. Yarns use to produce different types of fabric. Knitted fabrics are one of them.
Knitting technology is one of the interesting methods for producing knitted fabrics. Knitted fabrics
are produced as the following flow chart.
Yarn in cone form
↓
Feeding the yarn cone in the creel
↓
Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip tape positive arrangement and tension device
↓
Knitting
↓
Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting
↓
Inspection
↓
Numbering
Knitted fabrics have world wide popularity. Different designed knitted fabrics are produced by this
above techniques.
Classification of Knitting Machine:
Knitting machines are use to produce knit fabric. Knitted fabrics are produced by the interlocking
of one or more yarns through a series of loops by the use of hooked needle. Knitted fabrics are
differing from one to another depending on their fabric design. Specific fabrics are produced from
specific knitting machine.
Knitting machines are classified as follows:
A. Weft Knitting Machine
1. Flat Bar Knitting Machine
a) Flat Bed
b) V-Bed
c) Single Bed
d) Unidirectional
2. Straight Bar Knitting Machine
a) Single Needle
b) Double Needle
3. Circular Knitting machine
a) Revolving Cylinder; Sinker Top or Open Top Single Jersey Knitting Machine
b) Revolving Cylinder; Cylinder and Dial Double Jersey Knitting Machine
4. Circular Bearded Single
a) Sinker Wheel Knitting Machine
b) Loop Wheel Knitting Machine
B. Warp Knitting Machine
a) Rachel Knitting Machine
b) Tricot Knitting Machine
In modern times knit fabrics have a large verity. Verities type of knit fabrics is the demand of
modern time. Such types of fabrics are produced in the knitting mill.

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Profile of Knitting Machines of Cotton Club (BD) Ltd.
Circular Machine (Single Jersey)
Sl.No Machine
Descriptio
n
M/C
Dia
Gauge Truck
No
Attach Feeder Qty Brand Origin
1 SINGLE
JERSEY
18‖ 24 4 LYCRA 54 1 JIUNNLONG TAIWAN
2 SINGLE
JERSEY
3 SINGLE
JERSEY
4 SINGLE
JERSEY
5 SINGLE
JERSEY
6 SINGLE
JERSEY
7 SINGLE
JERSEY
8 SINGLE
JERSEY
9 SINGLE
JERSEY
10 SINGLE
JERSEY
11 SINGLE
JERSEY
12 SINGLE
JERSEY
13 SINGLE
JERSEY
14 SINGLE
JERSEY
15 SINGLE
JERSEY
16 SINGLE
JERSEY
17 SINGLE
JERSEY
Sl.No Machin
e
Descrip
tion
M/C Dia Gauge Truck
No
1 SINGLE
JERSEY
30‖
OPEN
24 4 LYCRA 90 1 TAYU CHINA
2 SINGLE
JERSEY
32‖
OPEN
3 SINGLE
JERSEY
34‖
OPEN
4 SINGLE
JERSEY
36‖
OPEN
5 SINGLE
JERSEY
38‖
OPEN

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Sl.No Machine
Descriptio
n
M/C
Dia
Gauge Truck
No
1 SINGLE
JERSEY
19‖ 24 4 LYCRA 57 1 FUKAHARA JAPAN
2 SINGLE
JERSEY
3 SINGLE
JERSEY
4 SINGLE
JERSEY
5 SINGLE
JERSEY
6 SINGLE
JERSEY
Circular Machine (Rib/Interlock)
Sl.No Machine
Description
M/C
Dia
Gauge Truck
No
1 RIB/INTERLOCK 24‖ 18/22 4 LYCRA 48 1 JIUNNLONG TAIWAN

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Different Parts of Knitting Machine & Functions of Machine Parts
Knitting machines are mainly two types; they are circular knitting machine and flat bed knitting
machine. This two types are hugely use in knitting machine. A knitting machine is composed of
lots of parts. Every parts of a machine are important for run the machine smoothly. Every part
has a specific function during operation.
Different knitting machine parts and their functions are given below:
1. Creel: Creel is called the holder of cone. Cone is placed in a creel for feeding the yarn to the
feeder.
2. Feeder: Yarn is feed through the feeder. No of feeder is depends on the design of the fabric.
3. VDQ Pulley: G.S.M of the knit fabric is controlled by VDQ pulley. VDQ pulley is used for
controlling the stitch length of the fabric.
4. Guide: Guide is called the supporting element. Guide is used to guide the yarn.
5. Sensor: Sensor is an automatic controlling system. When a yarn pass through this sensor
than if any yarn break down or any problem occur than it automatically stop by this sensoring
system.
6. Cylinder: Cylinder is the main parts of a knitting machine. Adjustment of a cylinder is
important. Cylinder carries needle, sinker, cam and many more.
7. Spreader: Spreader is used to spread the knitted fabric before take up roller. Knit fabrics may
be tube or open type. Spreader is adjusted as need.
8. Fixation Feeder: This type of feeder is used in electrical auto striper knitting machine to feed
the yarn at specific finger.

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9. Rethom: Rethom is used in electrical auto stripper knitting machine.
10. Needle:
of knitted loops but all of them can be grouped in three main needle types:
In Cotton Club (BD) Ltd., Latch Needles are used for construction of weft knitted fabrics.
Main Parts of Latch Needle:
a) Hook
b) Latch
c) Rivet
d) Butt
e) Stem

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11. Needle Bed:
The needles are disposed in the slots of needle beds which can be flat or circular (dial and
cylinder). A flat needle bed consists of a steel plate with grooves. In the grooves the latch
needles are inserted in such a way that their butts protrude above the plate of the steel plate.
In a cylinder needle bed the knitting needles are placed between the tricks inserted in cuts along
the cylinder surface generated.
12. Cam:
Cam is the second primary element. The cams are the mechanical devices which convert the
rotary drive into a suitable reciprocating action for the needles or other elements.
Types of Cam:
Cams used in knitting machine are of three types:

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Function of Knitting Cam:
individual or seriatim movement in the tricks of latch needle weft knitting machines as the butts
pass through the stationary cam system (revolving cylinder machines)
upon machine design, are fixed, exchangeable or adjustable.
13. Sinker:
the hook side between adjoining needles.
Function of Sinkers:
It may perform one or more of the following functions depending on the machine knitting action
and consequent sinker shape and movement.
a) Loop formation
b) Holding-down
c) Knocking-over
14. Air Gun:
possible to attach the needle when machine running

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Knitting Action of Latch Needle Circular Knitting Machine:
Knitting actions are:
a) Rest position,
b) Clearing position,
c) Yarn receiving,
d) Cast off or knock over stitch formation.
e) Stitch Formation
Considerable Points for Producing Knit Fabrics
Knit fabrics are the fashion of new age. Various designed fabrics are produced in knitting
machine. Knitting flow chart should follow during operation. During production processes
following machine parameters are considered.
rpm (revolution per minute)

34
Considerable points to produce knit fabrics:
Generally knit fabric production runs according to the order of buyer. When a buyer orders for
fabric, they mention some points related to production and end product quality. Before production
of knitted fabrics, these factors are needed to consider. Those are as follow:
a) Type of fabric or design of fabric: Knitted fabrics are various in design. When a buyer order
for a product they give a sample or give the specification of the end product. Different designed
fabrics are produced by changing the cam setting, needle setting and size of loop shape.
b) Finished G.S.M: It is technical term that indicates the weight of the fabric per square meter. In
knitting section grey fabrics are produced but the programmer should make his program for
getting the finished G.S.M after dyeing. Some points are considered while setting grey G.S.M;
they are enzyme level, color and suided or non suided. G.S.M of the fabric is controlled by the
following way:
bric can be changed. If pulley moves
towards the positive directive then the G.S.M is decrease and in the reverse direction G.S.M will
increase. This also depends on the machine type.
c) Yarn Count: Yarn count differ on the finished G.S.M. Higher the yarn count higher the G.S.M
of the fabric. Sometimes spandex or lycra is used with the cotton in that‘s case yarn count of
cotton select with the combination of lycra.
d) Type of yarn: Different types of yarn are used for knit production. Cotton yarns may be
combed or carded. Also synthetic fiber like lycra is used with cotton for some special case. All
depends on the buyer requirement.
e) Diameter of fabric: Diameter of the fabric is another factor. Fabric may be open diameter or
tube diameter. Anyhow grey dia. will be selected with response of finished dia. of the fabric.
f) Stitch length and color depth: If the depth of color of the fabric is high then loop length
should be higher because in case of fabric with higher loop length is less compact. In dark shade
dye take up% is high so G.S.M is adjusted then. Similarly in case of light shade loop length
should be relatively smaller. Stitch length varies depending on yarn count and shade of the
fabric. If stitch length is not fixed with respond to finished G.S.M then knitting faults appear.
GSM (Gram Square Meter):
Measurement of GSM:
GSM is a very important parameter for specified a certain quality of knitted fabric. The production
of knitted fabric is calculated in weight. The GSM cutter is very popular and easy usable GSM
testing instrument used in most knitted factory. But the construction of this cutter is very simple. It
is circular disk of 100 square cm area with sharp blade attached to its edge. So 100 square cm of
fabric can easily cut by it and weighted at the electric balance to get GSM reading.
GSM=(CPI X WPI X SL(mm)/Ne) X 0.9158
Here,
CPI = Course per Inch
WPI = Wales per Inch
SL =Stitch Length
Ne =Count
Stitch length:
In the process sequence, yarn count is the first but in the order of overall importance. Stitch
length has the most influence. GSM control means control the stitch length of the knitted fabric.

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Larger stitch length/loop length produces lower GSM & smaller stitch length/loop length has
higher GSM
i.e., stitch length = Course length/ Total no of needle
Machine Gauge:
A term giving a notational indication of the no. of needles per unit length along a needle bed or
needle bar of a knitting machine in current practice, a common unit length of one English inch
(25.4mm) is used for all types of warp and weft knitting machine.
Selection of machine gauge depends upon yarn diameter. Yarn diameter depends upon the
following:
Knitting Calculation:
Production of a knitting machine:
Production= (RPM x No. of Feeder x No. of Needle x SL x Effc. x 60 x 8) / (10 x 2.54 x 36 x 840
x 2.2046 x Count ) kg
Formula for GSM Calculation:
GSM = s x l x Tex /100
GSM= s x l x 590 / Ne
Where S= Wales per cm x Course per cm= wpc x cpc
l = loop length in mm

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Some Knitted Fabric Stitch Notation, Cam Arrangement
Fabric Name: Single Lacost
1. Stitch Notation:
Fig. Looping diagram
2. Cam arrangement & Needle arrangement:
i) Using two track cams:
ii) Using three truck cams:
iii) Using four truck
cams:
Fig.- Cam arrangement Fig.- Needle arrangement
Fabric Name: Double Lacost
1. Stitch Notation:
stitch
K = Knit cam
T = Tuck cam
1 = 1 Butt
Needle
2 = 2 Butt
Needle
3 = 3 Butt
Needle
4 = 4 Butt
Needle
K= Knit stitch
= Tuck stitch
K = Knit cam
T = Tuck cam
▲ ▲ ▲ T ▲
▲ T ▲ ▲ ▲ 1
2
1
2
3
▲ ▲ ▲ T ▲
▲ T ▲ ▲ ▲
▲ ▲ ▲ T ▲
1
2
3
4
▲ ▲ ▲ T ▲
▲ T ▲ ▲ ▲
▲ ▲ ▲ T ▲
▲ T ▲ ▲ ▲
1=1 Butt Needle
2=2 Butt Needle
3=3 Butt Needle
4=4 Butt Needle
▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ T T

37
1
2
iii) Using four truck cams:
Fig.- Cam arrangement
Fig.- Needle arrangement
Fabric Name: Single Jersey
1. Stitch Notation:
iii) Using four truck cams:s
Fig.- Cam arrangement
Fig.- Needle arrangement
▲ T T ▲ ▲ ▲
▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ T T
▲ T T ▲ ▲ ▲
▲ T T ▲ ▲ ▲
1
2
1
2
3
4
▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ T T
▲ T T ▲ ▲ ▲
▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ T T
▲ T T ▲ ▲ ▲
1 = 1 Butt Needle
2 = 2 Butt Needle
3 = 3 Butt Needle
4 = 4 Butt Needle
X= knit stitch
K= knit cam
▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲
▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲
1
2
1
2
3
▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲
▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲
▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲
▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲
▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲
▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲
▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲
1
2
3
4

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Feature of Flat Knitting Machine
 Flat knitting machine has two stationary needle beds.
 Latch needles are used.
 Angular cam of a bi-directional cam system is used.
 The cam system is attached to the underside of a carriage, which with its selected yarn
carriers.
 The carriage traverses in a reciprocating manner across the machine width.
 There is a separate cam system for each needle bed.
 The two cam systems are linked together by a bridge, which passes across from one
needle bed to the other.
 Normally machine gauge is 3 to 18 needles per inch and machine width up to 79 inches.
Machine in Flat Knitting Section
Company Name : Round Star International Co.
Number of Machine : 21
Stopper : 15
Feeder : 06
Needle : 1906
Different Parts of Flat Knitting Machine:
1. Carriage
2. Beds
3. Take down Roller

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4. Programming Parts
Flat/V-Bed Knitting Action
V-BED LOOP IN REST
POSITION
BOTH LOOP CLEAR THE LATCH NEW YARN ARE
RECEIVED
BOTH LOOPS ARE CAST-OFF AS NEW STITCH
Increasing Production in Knitting Floor
Knit fabrics are produced from circular knitting machine or flat bed knitting machine. Circular
knitting machines are two types, they are single jersey or double jersey knitting machine. This
two type‘s machine has different cam arrangement settings, which is responsible for design
production.
Anyhow, production of knit fabrics depends on various factors. By developing the following
factors we can increase the production of knit fabrics.
1. Machine Speed: Production per hour depends on the speed of the machine. Higher the
machine rpm, faster the movement of needle which increase the production. But we should make
sure that, this higher speed will not impose excess tension on yarn. Excess tension on yarn can
increase the breakage of yarn which is not desired.

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2. Number of Feeder: If the number of feeder increases in the circumference of cylinder, then
the number of courses will be increased in one revolution at a time. This is responsible for
increasing the production.
3. Machine Gauge: Machine gauge also effect the production of knit fabric. Machine gauge vary
depending on the type of machine and Manufacturers Company. Higher gauge machine gives
higher production.
4. Automation System: By imposing automation in the machine, production can be increased.
Following automation can be added for higher production.
n system for smooth operation
5. By imposing other developments: Following development can increase the production.
6. Creel feeding system can increase the production.
7. Applying yarn supply through plastic tube that eliminates the possibilities of yarn damage.
8. By using yarn feed control device.
In modern time different advanced facilities added to the machine features, which will facilities
the more production.
Knit Fabric Faults, Causes and Ways of Remedies
Knit fabric is produced from loop formation. So it needs to be careful during production. Different
types of faults could be found in knit fabric, which could be the cause of fabric rejection. If we can
find out the defects of fabric during production, than we can take steps to remove it from the next
knitting production process.
In practical; following knitting faults could be found in the knit fabric. Some knitting faults and their
remedies are given bellow:
Hole Mark
Causes:
Needle Mark
Causes:
needle marks come along the fabrics.
Star
Causes:

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Sinker Mark
Causes:
sinker mark comes.
Drop Stitches
Causes:
loose of take down mechanism.
Oil Stain
Cause:
Rush Stain
Cause:
.
Pin Hole
Cause:
Grease Stain
Causes:
Cloth Fall Out
Cause:
Cloth fall out can occur after a drop stitch especially when an empty needle with an empty needle
with close latch runs into the yarn feeder and remove the yarn out of the hook of the following
needles.
Barre
Causes:
different micro near value of fiber content in yarn.
fibers have similar characteristics.

42
n draw frame different similar classes sliver is mixed and make one sliver.
Yarn Contamination
Causes:
Fly Dust
Cause:
In knitting section too much lint or short fiber is flying to and fro that are created from yarn due to
low twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere or attached to the fabric surface tightly
during knit fabric manufacturing.
Yarn Faults
Causes:
Different yarn faults also are cause for knitting faults.
Now, if we want to remove these knitting faults we should be aware before yarn selection and
during knitting of fabric. Knitting machine conditions should be perfect. Needle, Sinker, Feeder
and other equipments, which is used, should be fault free.
So, Management related person should be aware about the causes of knitting faults and try to
reduce the knitting faults.

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CHAPTER-2
DYEING SECTION
This chapter deals with the dyeing floor of the Cotton Club (BD) Ltd. It
begins with the machine specification of dyeing floor and then is followed by
the name of the dyes and chemical used, uses of the different chemicals,
dyeing procedure of different types of fabric with different types of dyestuff.
In this chapter the main faults and remedies of dyeing are briefly explained.
Batch Preparation:
Objectives of Batching:
–
batch as less as possible for same shade.
Batch Management:
Primarily batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above criteria under consideration.
Batch section in charge receives this primary batch plan from dyeing manager. Some time
planning is adjusted according to m/c condition or emergency.

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Process sequence of Batch preparation :

45
Machines Used in Dyeing section:
Turning machine :
Manufacturer Dong Nam Industrial Co., Ltd., Korea
Feature: 1. The Machine is used to reverse the knitted face to back and back to face. 2. The
Machine has capacity blower pipe, fabric turning pipe, roller and folding parts. 3. Process of
fabric turning.
Air Turning Machine:
Model : DNAT-400
Width : Roller 400 mm
Machine Space : Over All = W1100 × L5600 × H1410
Set-Up = W2100 × L7600 ×H1510
Production Capacity : 7~10 Ton/22h/Day
General Structure : Induction Pipe Parts
Frame & Fan Parts
Roller & Plaiting Part
Spare Parts : Tool Box = 1set
Electric Capacity : 11.75kw
Fan Motor = 11kw × 1
Roller Motor = 0.75kw × 1
Air Consumption : 35mm-Lq
PACK'CBM : 5.3 CBM
G/R Weight : 1.4ts
W/C Total 2 Case No.1 Body Parts 3.9 cbm, G/R 1.0ts
(W1300 ×L1800 × H1660)
No.2 Pipe Parst 1.4 cbm, G/R 0.4ts
(W500 × L5200 × H530)
Dyeing Machines:
The dyeing section of Cotton Club (BD) Ltd. Has 14 Dyeing machine. Three of them are sample
dyeing machine and the rest are for bulk production. Machine specification of the machines is
given bellow.
Sample Dyeing Machine:
No. Of Machine : 3 Sets
Name of Machine : ECL-S Medium batch yarn dyeing machine
Manufacturer : Flying Yang, China
Model : ECL-S-15
Nominal Capacity : 8-15Kg
Total Power : 7.7 Kw

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Dimension : 2450mm×1050mm×2060mm
Machine Details:
Factory Serial No.
1
Manufacturer : Dilmenler, Turkey
M/c Type : DMS 25 Sample
Dyeing Machine
M/c Capacity : 25 Kg
Maxm Working Temp. : 1360C
Liquid Ratio : 1:6-1:8
Maxm Working
Pressure
: 25 Bar
Maxm Surface Temp. : 1400C
External Tank Capacity : 15 Lt (Chemical) + 15
Lt (Dye)
Water Capacity : 15 L
Factory Serial No. : 2
M/c Type : DMS 50 Sample
Dyeing Machine
Maxm Working
Pressure
: 25 Bar
Lt (Dye)
Water Capacity : 35 Lt
M/c Type : DMS 150Sample
Dyeing Machine
Maxm Working
Pressure
: 25 Bar
External Tank Capacity : 100 Lt (Chemical) +
100 Lt (Dye)
M/c Type : DMS 600 HT Jumbo
Dyeing Machine
Maxm Working
Pressure
: 25 Bar

47
Dyeing Machine
Liquid Ratio : 1:6
Maxm Working
Pressure
: 25 Bar
600 Lt (Dye)
Dyeing Machine
Liquid Ratio : 1:6
Maxm Working
Pressure
: 25 Bar
External Tank Capacity : 800 Lt (Chemical) +800
Lt (Dye)
Dyeing Machine
Liquid Ratio : 1:6
Maxm Working Pressure : 25 Bar
Lt (Dye)
Factory Serial No. : 8 (A)
Dyeing Machine
Liquid Ratio : 1:6
Maxm Working : 25 Bar

48
Pressure
300 Lt (Dye)
Factory Serial No. : 8 (B)
Dyeing Machine
Liquid Ratio : 1:6
Lt (Dye)
Factory Serial No. : 9 (A)
Dyeing Machine
Liquid Ratio : 1:6
Lt (Dye)
Factory Serial No. : 9 (B)
Dyeing Machine
Liquid Ratio : 1:6
Lt (Dye)

49
Main Parts of The M/C:
Main Tank:
Main tank is the largest part of the dyeing machine. This is the main dye bath which contains the
dye liquor & the fabric. The size of the tank depends on the capacity of the machine. Liquor &
fabric circulates in the main tank during dyeing process. There may have different number of
nozzle connected to main tank according to the machine capacity.

50
Reserve Tank/P.T:
This tank is mainly used for storage of hot water that will be used for the dyeing of fabric. The
temperature of water in the P.T. tank is maximum 800C. By using this hot water in the machine
during dyeing there is a reduction of time for heating the water in the main tank which results in
the reduction of total dyeing time.
Dosing Tank/Additional Tank/Mixing Tank:
The dyes, chemicals & auxiliaries used in dyeing are passed to the main tank from additional
tank. There may one or two mixing tank. At first, the dye or chemicals are mixed in the additional
tank then it is injected or dosed in the main tank depends on the requirements.
Heat Exchanger:
During the different stage of dyeing (also pre-treatment, after-treatment), there is a need of
increasing or decreasing the temperature of dye liquor gradually. We cannot use liquor of
required final temperature directly because there may be possibilities of thermal shocking of the
fabric. So, the temperature should be increased or decreased in a controlled manner. This
controlling is done by heat exchanger. Actually it is an indirect heater. During the circulation of
dye bath liquor, the liquor passes through the heat exchanger.

51
Mechanism of Heat Exchanger:
1. Heat-exchanger consists of no. of tubes surrounded by a shell body.
2. Two fluids of different temperature flow through the heat exchanger. The fluids can be either
gas or liquid on either the shell side or the tube side.
3. One flows through the tube other flows through the shell.
4. The temperature of the two fluid is different, so transfer of heat occurs from one fluid to
another through shell.
5. The fluids which flow through the tubes come in and pass out from the heat-exchanger on the
same side. On the other hand the fluid used in shell comes in and pass out from the different
side of the shell.
Liquor addition system from mixing tank to main tank:
There are mainly two system of adding liquor from dosing tank to main tank. They are:
1. Injecting
2. Dosing
Injecting:
Injecting means to directly pass the liquor from dosing tank to main tank without any time
required i.e. to inject the liquor from dosing tank to main tank.
Dosing:
Dosing is of two types. They are:
1. Linear dosing
2. Progressive dosing
Linear Dosing:
To pass the liquor from dosing tank to main tank in a time equally. As for example if we want to
pass 60g/l liquor in 30 minutes in linear dosing then we will have to pass 2g/l per minute

52
Progressive Dosing:
Progressive dosing is to pass the liquor from dosing tank to main tank at an equal increasing
rate. It is always expressed in percentage. In fakir apparels ltd. 70% progressive dosing is used.
Name of Chemical and Auxiliaries Used:

54
Name of Dyestuff Used in Cotton Club:

56
Pre Treatment Process for Knitted Fabric:
Scouring:
The process of removing natural as well as added impurities of essentially hydrophobic character
as completely as possible & leave the fabric in a highly absorptive condition without undergoing
physical and chemical damage significantly and also make the goods suitable for removing the
natural coloring matter in the subsequent during the subsequent bleaching process is called
scouring.
Reaction of Scouring
Bleaching:
Definition:
Bleaching is the chemical process by which natural color is destroyed mainly from cotton
fabrics.
There are three types of bleaching. They are-
2O2 bleaching
Reaction of Bleaching:
In the presence of alkali the following equilibrium is set up
Per hydroxyl ion (HO2-) is the active bleaching agent.

57
Dye Used in Cotton Club (BD) Ltd.:
In Cotton Club there are two types of dyes are used.
1. Reactive dye
2. Disperse dye
2.9.1 Reactive Dye:
The dye which reacts with the fibers chemically and makes covalent bond with the fibers &
become an integral part of it is called reactive dyes. Reactive dyes contain reactive group. In a
reactive dye a chromospheres contains a substituent that is activated and allowed to directly
react to the surface of the substrate. Reactive dyes have good fastness properties owing to the
bonding that occurs during dyeing. Reactive dyes are most commonly used in dyeing of cellulose
like cotton or flax, but also wool is dye able with reactive dyes.
The four different components of the dye:
the expected
effect of improving the solubility, since reactive dyes must be in solution for application to fibers.
This means that reactive dyes are not unlike acid dyes in nature.
-reactive group. Frequently the bridging
group is an amino, -NH-, group. This is usually for convenience rather than for any specific
purpose.
-reactive group is the only part of the molecule able to react with the fiber.
Reaction Mechanism of reactive dye:
A cellulose polymer has hydroxy functional groups, and it is these that the reactive dyes utilize as
nucleophiles. Under alkali conditions, the cellulose-OH groups are encouraged to deprotonate to
give cellulose-O- groups. These can then attack electron-poor regions of the fiber-reactive group,
and perform either aromatic nucleophilic substitution to aromatics or nucleophilic addition to
alkenes
D-SO2-C2H4-OSO3Na + OH-Cell D-SO2-C2H4-O-Cell + NaHSO3
Here,
D=Dye part
Cell=Cellulose polymer
A reactive dye may be represented by:
D-B-Y-X
Where,
D= Chromospheres of dye part
B= Bridge (It‘s a part of dye molecules) e.g. NH-, -NR group
Y= Reactive group bearing part (It can be a heterocyclic ring)
X= Reactive atom or group (It can be the halogen group or activated vinyl group)
E.g., -CH=CH2
Disperse dye:
Disperse dyes have low solubility in water, but they can interact with the polyester chains by
forming dispersed particles. Their main use is the dyeing of polyesters, and they find minor use
dyeing cellulose acetates and polyamides. The general structure of disperse dyes is small,
planar and non-ionic, with attached polar functional groups like -NO2 and -CN. The shape makes
it easier for the dye to slide between the tightly-packed polymer chains, and the polar groups
improve the water solubility, improve the dipolar bonding between dye and polymer and affect

58
the color of the dye. However, their small size means that disperse dyes are quite volatile, and
tend to sublime out of the polymer at sufficiently high temperatures.
Steps of Dyeing:
For Reactive Dye:
fixed dye, electrolyte and alkali from material.
For Disperse Dye:
rs into the fiber.
s region becomes
Crystalline).
Dyeing Process with Reactive Dyes :
Knit dyeing is near similar as yarn dyeing process but there is some difference in quality
measurement. Generally all types of single jersey, double jersey and their derivatives are dyed
by the following ways. The process may be slightly different due to shade variation viz., dark
shade, and light shade.
Here, a discontinuous dyeing process by hot brand reactive dyes is given which is use in the
Cotton Club. But the dyeing sequence and chemical brand can be different depending on the
choice of the manufacturer. Also, some steps of dyeing can be removed or some steps can be
added for better dyeing efficiency. Different dyeing parameter is also important to get better
dyeing efficiency.
Dyeing Curve

59
For Polyester Dyeing:
Polyester fabric dyeing is done by the disperse dyes. Disperse dyes are water insoluble; for this
reason dispersing agent is used for make it soluble in the water. We can see the polyester yarn
dyeing process for getting more information.
Curve
Common Faults And Their Remedies In Knit Dyeing
1. Crack, rope & crease marks:
Causes:
Poor opening of the fabric rope

60
Shock cooling of synthetic material
Incorrect process procedure
Higher fabric speed
Remedies:
Pre-Heat setting
Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
Reducing the m/c load
Higher liquor ratio
Running at a slightly higher nozzle pressure
2. Fabric distortion and increase in width:
Causes:
Too high material speed
Low liquor ratio
Remedies:
By decreasing both nozzle pressure & winch speed
3. Pilling:
Causes:
Too high mechanical stress on the surface of the fabric
Excess speed during processing
Excess foam formation in the dye bath
Remedies:
By using of a suitable chemical lubricant
By using antifoaming agent
By turn reversing the Fabric before dyeing
4. Running problem:
A. Ballooning:
Causes:
Seam joining with too densely sewn
Remedies:
By cutting a vertical slit of 10-15 cm in length for escaping the air.
B. Intensive foaming:
Causes:
Pumping a mixture of air and water
Remedies:
By using antifoaming agent
5. Uneven dyeing:
Causes:
Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring, bleaching & mercerizing)
Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibres
Quick addition of dyes and chemicals
Lack of control of dyeing m/c
Remedies:
By ensuring even pretreatment

61
By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibres
By slow addition of dyes and chemicals
Proper controlling of dyeing m/c
6. Shade variation (Batch to batch):
Batch to batch shade variation is common in exhaust dyeing which is not completely avoidable.
Even though, to ensure a consistent batch to batch production of shade the following matters
should be controlled carefully-
Use standard dyes and chemicals
Maintain the same liquor ratio
7. Dye spot:
Causes:
Improper mixing of dyestuff in the solution, in right amount of water, at the temperature.
Remedies:
We should pass the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh strainer when
adding it to the chemical tank, so that the large un-dissolved particles are removed.
8. Patchy dyeing:
Causes:
Uneven heat in the machine.
Improper impregnation of dye liquor due to the low wetting property of the fabric.
Dye migration during intermediate dyeing.
Remedies:
By proper pretreatment.
By adding extra wetting agent.
Heat should be same throughout the dye liquor.
9. Specky dyeing:
Causes:
Excessive foam in the dye bath.
Fall of water droplets on fabric surface before or after dyeing.
In sufficient after treatment.
Remedies:
By using antifoaming agent.
Sufficient after treatment.
By using a good wetting agent in the dye bath.
10. Roll to roll variation or Meter to Meter variation:
Causes:
Poor migration property of dyes.
Improper dyes solubility.
Hardness of water.
Faulty m/c speed, etc
Remedies:
Use standard dyes and chemicals.
Proper m/c speed.
Use of soft water
11. Crease mark:
Causes:
Poor opening of the fabric rope
Shock cooling of synthetic material

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If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal
Due to high speed m/c running
Remedies:
Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.
Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
Reducing the m/c load
Higher liquor ratio
Improper Dissolving of dye particle in bath.
12. Softener Mark:
Causes:
Improper mixing of the Softener.
Improper running time of the fabric during application of softener.
Entanglement of the fabric during application of softener.
CHAPTER-3
DYEING FINISHING
Finishing is the final steps of wet processing technology. A textile products either it is dyed or
printed it needs to add some finishing feathers before marketing. By applying different finishing
techniques a product becomes more comfortable to use. So finishing should be easier to apply.
Dyeing/Printing + Finishing = RMG/Marketing
The making of marketable and consumer useable textiles is not completed after fabric
production, dyeing or printing operation. Fabrics usually still need to undergo additional steps
known as Finishing. Finishing is the final processing before the fabric is cut into apparel or made
into any articles of textiles. Finishing is what improves attractiveness and makes fabrics suitable
for use. There are different types of finishing operation. Some make fabric stiffer, some make
softener, some make fabric water repellent or water proof, some make shrink-resistant or fire-proof
etc.
Classification of Finishes:
Textile finishes are classified in different ways.
The most classifications are:
a. Aesthetic finishes: This type of finishes make change or modify the appearance of the fabric
or hand/drape properties of the fabrics.
b. Functional finishes: This type of finishes changes the internal performance properties of the
fabric.
Finishes also classifies as follows:
a. Mechanical finishes: This type of finishes also called as dry finishes. This type of finishes
involves specific physical treatment to a fabric surface to cause a change in fabric appearance.
b. Chemical finishes/Wet finishes: This type of finishes usually applied to fabric by padding
followed by curing or drying.
Finishes also can be classified by their degree of performance as follows:
a. Permanent finishes: It involves a chemical change in fiber structure and do not change
throughout the life of a fabric.

63
b. Durable finishes: Usually last throughout the life of a fabric, effectiveness becomes
diminished after each cleaning and near the end of normal use life of the fabrics, the finishing is
nearly removed.
c. Semi-durable finishes: Usually last several launderings or dry cleanings and many are
removal in home laundering or dry cleaning.
d. Temporary finishes: Removed or substantionaly diminished the first time an article is
laundered or dry cleaning.
Objectives of finishing:
Followings are the objectives of finishing:
To improve attractiveness of the fabric.
To increase the life time or durability of the fabric.
To meet up specific requirement of the fabric for achieve the final goal.
Finishing plays an important role in the modern age. Everyone likes to wear finished products
with some special types of finishing. Finishing of the fabric depends on the requirement of the
buyer. Different types of finishing machine are use in finishing operation.
Process Sequence of Finishing Machineries:
Finishing machineries are used for applying various types of finishes to the fabric or textile
materials. All the finishing sequence is not same. Finishing sequence depends on the material
types. Say, dyed yarn finishing process or garments finishing process is not similar as knit fabric
finishing process. Although, finishing sequence of open form and tubular fabric form is not
similar.
After dyeing, knit fabric is required to finish. During dyeing all knit fabrics are dyed in tubular
form. Knit fabrics are finished in open or tubular form according to the buyer‘s requirement.
Process Sequence of Finishing for knitted Jersey Fabric in cotton club is as
follows:

64
Machines Used in Finishing Section
Slitter Machine
Slitter machine is used for tubular knit fabric to make it in open form. In open form fabric finishing
line; slitter machine is used after hydro-extractor, de-watering and drying machine.
Slitting is a process that is applied for cutting the tubular fabric through the intended break Wales
line on lengthwise direction prior to stenter processing. During slitting, it is required to be aware
about the cutting line otherwise, fabric faults can be occurred there.

65
Stenter Machine:
Stenter is used for open form fabric. After passing the open compactor, fabric enter into the
stenter. Cotton fabric shrinks widthwise and weft distorted due to bleaching and dyeing process.
De-Watering Machine
In knit fabric finishing process; de-watering machine is used after passing the hydro-extractor
machine. After hydro-extracting of the fabric, remaining water is removed by the de-watering
process. During de-watering process additional chemical is used for soften the fabric. Different
types of operational parameter are controlled during de-watering process.

66
Compactor
Compactor machines are two types. They are-
1. Tubular compactor
2. Open compactor
Tubular compactor is used after hydro-extractor, de-watering and dryer. By the compactor
machine, compacting is done for control the shrinkage of the fabric. Here, different types of off
line quality of the fabric are measured.
Open compactor is used for compacting the open form fabric. Here, slitting machine is used for
open the fabric from the tubular form.
Drying Machine
In textile finishing unit; dryer uses for dry the knit, woven fabrics and dyed yarn. But the drying
process and drying mechanism of yarn and fabrics is different from one to another. In dryer,
drying and curing is done as per required.

67
1. Drying: The main functions of a textile dryer is to dry the textile fabrics. Drying is defined as a
process where the liquid portion of the solution is evaporated from the fabric.
2. Curing: Curing can be defined as a process following addition of a finish to the textile fabrics,
in which materials are heated for a certain time in elevated temperature to effect a chemical
reaction. This curing operation is most common in finishing of the printed goods.
CHAPTER-4
GARMENTS MAKING SEQUENCE
Stepwise garments manufacturing sequence on industrial basis is
given below:
Design / Sketch
↓
Pattern Design
↓
Sample Making
↓
Production Pattern
↓
Grading
↓
Marker Making
↓
Spreading
↓
Cutting
↓

68
Sorting/Bundling
↓
Sewing/Assembling
↓
Inspection
↓
Pressing/ Finishing
↓
Final Inspection
↓
Packing
↓
Send to buyer /Despatch
Descriptions above these processes are given below:
Design/Sketch:
For the production of knit garments, or woven garments a sketch of a particular garment
including its design features is essential to produce on paper so that after manufacturing of that
garment could be verified or checked whether could be done manually or with the help of
computer.
Pattern Design:
Hard paper copy of each component of the garment of exact dimension of each component is
called pattern. The patterns also include seam allowance, trimming allowance, dirts, and pleats,
ease allowance, any special design etc affairs. Pattern design could also be done manually or
with the help of computer.
Sample Making:
The patterns are used to cut the fabric. Then the garment components in fabric form are used to
sew/assemble the garment. Sample garment manufacturing is to be done by a very efficient and
technically sound person.
Production Pattern:
The patterns of the approved sample garment are used for making production pattern. During
production pattern making, sometimes it may be necessary to modify patterns design if buyer or
appropriate authority suggests any minor modification.
Grading:
Normally for large scale garments production of any style needs different sizes to produce from a
set of particular size of patterns, the patterns of different sizes are produced by using grade rule
which is called grading.
Marker Making:
All the pattern pieces for all the required sizes are arranged n the paper in such a way so that
maximum number of garments could be produced with minimum fabric wastag4e. Markers are
made for 6, 12, 18, 24 etc. pieces. Marker is also useful to estimate fabric consumption
calculations.

69
Spreading:
It is the process of arranging fabrics on the spreading table as per length and width of the marker
in stack form. Normally height of the lay/fabric is limited upto maximum six inches high. But 4
inch to 5 inch height of the lay is safe.
Fabric Cutting:
On the fabric lay/spread the marker paper is placed carefully and accurately, and pinned with the
fabric to avoid unwanted movement or displacement of the marker paper. Normally straight knife
cutting machine is used to cut out the garment component as per exact dimension of each
patterns in stack form, care must be taken to avoid cutting defects.
Sorting/ Bundling:
After cutting the entire fabric lay, all the garments components in stack form is shorted out as per
size and color. To avoid mistake in sorting, it is better to use code number on each pattern.
Sewing or Assembling:
It is the most important department/ section of a garment manufacturing industry. Sewing
machines of different types are arranged as a vertical line to assemble the garments. Sequence
of types of sewing machine arrangement depends on sequence of assembling operations.
Number of sewing machine per line varies from 20 nos to 60 nos depending on the style of the
ga4rmnet to be produce. Production pr line pr hour also varies from 100 to 150 pieces depending
on specific circumstances. Number of sewing machine.
Inspection:
Each and every garment after sewing passes through the inspection table/ point, where the
garments are thoroughly and carefully checked to detect/find any defect if present in the
garment. The defects may be for example variation of measurement, sewing defect, fabric
defects, spots etc. if the defect is possible to overcome, then the garment is sent to the
respective person for correction. If the defect is not correction able, then the garment is
separated as wastage.
Pressing/ Finishing:
After passing through the inspection table, each garment is normally ironed/ pressed to remove
unwanted crease and to improve the smoothness, so that the garments looks nice to the
customer. Folding of the garment is also done here for poly packing of the garments as per
required dimension.
Final Inspection:
It is the last stage of inspection f the manufactured garments on behalf of the garment
manufacturing organization, to detect any defective garments before packing.
Packing:
After final inspection, the garments are poly-packed, dozen-wise, color wise, size ratio wise,
bundled and packed in the cartoon. The cartoon is marked with important information in printed
form which is seen from outside the cartoon easily.
Despatch:

70
The cartoons of the manufactured garments are delivered or placed in the dispatch department
or finished products go down, from where the garments lot is delivered for shipment.
CHAPTER-5
STORE OR INVENTORY SYSTEM
Inventory:
Inventory is the stock of any item or resources used in an Organization.
Fabric storage:
Supplied Grey fabrics are first subjected to the 4 point inspection system and fabric allowance
point is 28 per 100 yards. only those goods are stored here which are passed from the quality
control department. And defected fabric are back to the supplier.
The types of fabric defect are check in 4 point inspection system.
- Oil spot
- Missing yarn

71
- Dye defect
- Hole
- Color yarn
- Drop pick
- Net
- Knot
- Broken yarn
- Slub yarn
- Color shading
FABRIC STORE
4- Point inspection system:
Defects (length wise): Penalty point:
1. 0-3 inch……………………………1
2. 3-6 inch……………………………2
3. 6-9 inch……………………………3
4. 9 inch & above…………………....4
5. Any hole& miss pick……………...4
Example: Suppose inspected fabric length=100 yds, fabric width=50 inch, and following faults are
found.
Faults length No of faults
0-3 inch 3
3-6 inch 5

72
6-9 inch 3
9 inch & above 2
We know,
Points/100 yds= Total penalty points*100*36
Fabric length*Fabric width
13 36
Points /100 yds = ────×100×────
100 50
= 09.36 Per 100 sq/yds
Fabric inventory:
Various types of fabric and accessories such as sewing tread, button, interlining, zippers, label
etc are stored in central room. Here also machine sparse parts and stationary are stored in store
room.
The flow sequence of fabric inventory is given below:
Received the fabric
Pre-inspection
Physical inventory
Make the swatch card
Prepare blanket shade
Shade segregation
Issue fabric to cutting room.
Fabric is separated and stored according to lot number.
Accessories inventory:
Flow sequence of accessories inventory is given below
Import receive
Physical inventory
Swatch making
Swatch approval from buyer

73
Register/Record the entry
Supply to sub store according to demand
Issue to bulk production
Accessories inventory item:
Hanger sizer: Identify the size of the garment by hanger
Label: Labels are the most important trimmings by which customer easily, know about the
product. Here two types of label are available:
1. Main label: It contains the name of buyer and country. Ex. Wal-Mart, USA etc
2. Sub label:
i. Size label: It contains the size of the garment
ii. Care label: It contains care construction. Different types of care label are given
below.
a. Washing code
b. Bleaching code
c. Ironing code
d. Dry cleaning code
e. Drying code
iii. Cost label: It contains the cost of garments.
iv. Composition: It contains fiber composition of the fabric. Ex 65% cotton,
35%polyester.
Sewing thread:
Different types of sewing treads are available in store room. Such as
 60/3 (100% polyester)
 50/3 (core spun yarn)
 40/3 (100% polyester)
 20/3 (100% cotton) etc
Button:
Many types of button are available in store room. Some examples of button are given below.
 Horn button
 Purl button
 Shank button
 Snap button
 Coconut button
 Chalk button
Amount determination of button:
There are two systems of determination the amount of amount. These are given below.
1. 1G.G =12GRS
2. Each cartoon contain 750 gross
1 gross =144 pcs
750 gross =144×750=108000 pcs
Toggle:

74
Special type of accessories used in jacket, bags etc. To reduce and increase the length and also
for better fitting, it is used.
Interlining:
Types of interlining are available in store room are given below.
o Dot fuse.
o Paper fuse.
o T.C interlining.
o Woven fabric fuse.
o Non fuse etc.
Packing section:
Various types of packing accessories are available in store room such as polybag,
packing board, tissue paper, hanger, scotch tape, gum tape, carton etc.
Flow sequence of packing section is given below:
Make shipping mark according to P/O, PDM sheet
Approve from buyer
Carton measurement confirm from Q.C dept
Sample make (carton)
Re-approved from buyer
Ensure net and gross weight
Go to bulk production
Complete the carton with garment
Cartons are made according to buyer instruction and length wise it contains the buyer name,
widthwise it contain the measurement, net & gross weight. Carton contain the information are
printed by screen print style.
Quality for Inventory/Storage:
Fabrics or other Raw Materials and Accessories should be safe from the following:
1. Soiling,
2. Mechanical damage,
3. Environmental damage due to temp. & R.H% which may cause dimensional changes,
4. Fungal Attack,
5. Fadding due to light exposure,
6. Damage during Handling.

75
CHAPTER-6
SAMPLE, PATTERN, MARKER
Flow sequence of sample section is given below:
Receive developed sheet from buyer
Develop the sample
Send the sample to buyer for approval
Approval of sample/comments about the sample (if necessary)
Send pre-production sample to buyer
Start bulk production
Types of sample produce by COTTON CLUB (BD) LTDaccording to buyer
demand:
There is various type of sample those are given below:
1. Original sample:
This type of sample made of original fabric and accessories according to buyer sketch and
measurement.
2. Proto/ Develop sample:
Here measurement is very important but need not to match the fabric and accessories.
3. Seal sample:
Seal sample is approved by the buyer with tag.
4. Size set:
All sizes of sample are produced such as S, M, L, XL, etc, and send to buyer.
5. Wash sample:
Shade of wash sample must be matched with original sample after washing. It also determined
by grey scale.
6.Pre-production sample:
First garment of bulk production is called pre- production sample.

76
7.Add sample:
For advertising of the product buyer want this type of sample.
8.Sales man sample:
To supply the new product in different showroom, buyer wants this sample.
9.Photo sample:
Only photograph of the product is send to buyer.
10. Shipment/ Reference sample:
After completion the shipment of the garment some garment are kept in sample room which are
known as shipment or reference sample.
11. Pre-line sample:
This type of sample is collected from anyone line during production.
12. Lab-test sample:
Sample is tested by third party or buyer‘s nominated lab.
Pattern making:
After receiving an order in most cases buyer gives them a complete pattern and they make
sample according to given pattern. But in some cases they prepare the pattern by own when
buyer don not give any pattern.
Marker making:
Marker is a thin paper which contains all the pattern pieces of a garment. It is made just before
cutting and its purpose is to minimize the wastages. The width of a marker is equal to the width
of the fabric and it should not be greater than the width of the fabric i.e. the width of the marker is
kept less than or equal to the width of the Fabric.
The pattern pieces should be placed very carefully in such a way that it will obviously minimize
wastages.
Objects of marker making:
- To reduce cost;
- To improve the quality of the garments;
- To reduce the cutting time;
- To facilitate large scale production.

77
Possibilities of marker making:
Generally there are two methods by which marker can be made –
MANUAL METHOD:
The man performs it by himself using his hands. It is a conventional system and requires more
time. Manually two types of marker are made –
1. Full size marker:
Full size marker is made for production purpose.
2. Miniature type marker:
Miniature type marker is sometime made and its purposes are to plan or schedule and learn or
study i.e. for planning and learning purposes.
COMPUTERIZED METHOD:
Now the commonly used system of marker making is computerized method. In this system, a
man performs it by himself using computer software (CAD and CAM) and it requires considerably
less time than manual system. Two types of marker are generally made using computerized
system –
1. Full size marker:
Using ‗Digitalizing Board‘ the pattern pieces are input into the computer. Computer uses software
and a marker paper is printed out that will be used in the production.
2. Miniature type marker:
Only for learning, practicing, and planning purposes this type of marker is printed from the
computer.
Computerized system is also two types –
Interactive:
Manually it is done by using computer. Generally a computer operator can do it and requires less
time.
Automatic:
The pattern pieces are replaced on to the marker by programming. A high technician can do so
and it requires more time.

78
Factors considered during marker making:
The important factors considered during marker making are –
Nature of the Fabric:
The fabric may be either symmetric or asymmetric. Thus the nature of the fabric should be
considered during marker making.
Lay planning of patterns:
Improper lay planning of patterns may create more wastage. Thus it should be taken under
consideration.
Alignment of the pattern pieces according to the grain line:
It is also another important factor that must be considered. The warp direction of a fabric is very
much important for a garment and the grain line indicates the warp or wale direction.
Requirements of cutting:
Before placing the pattern pieces on to the marker or during marker making the cutting
allowances are considered where necessary and where is not. It may produce more wastage and
may reduce the dimensions of patterns.
Production planning:
Different types and sizes if garments manufacturing may un at a time in an industry. So during
marker making it should be considered.
Size of marker:
During marker making we have to think about the table size, length of the fabric, etc.
Marker Efficiency:
The ratio between the total areas of the pattern pieces to the total area of the maker paper is
technically termed as Marker Efficiency. It is expressed in percentage. If it is denoted by the
symbol ή then –
Marker Efficiency (ή) = (Total areas of the pattern pieces/Total area of the
Marker paper) * 100

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The factors which influence the Marker Efficiency –
 Manufacturers of the marker;
 Size of pattern pieces;
 Length of the marker;
 Pattern Engineering;
 Nature of the fabric;
 Method of marker making;
 Marker width;
 Kinds or design of garments.
Constraint of Marker making:
The hinders of marker making are –
Grain Line:
Grain line is a more effective constraint of marker making. Because of grain line sometimes it is
tough to place the pattern pieces on to the marker, even though it is possible the wastage
become higher.
Design of Garments:
Sometimes the designs and repeats of the fabric are regarded as constraints of marker making.
The patterns may miss the designs or may overlap the designs.
Nature of the Fabric:
Nature of the fabric may sometimes be regarded as a constraint of marker making. Nature of the
fabric includes symmetric and asymmetric.
Cutting Accuracy:
Accurate cutting may be one of the constraints of marker making.
Production Planning:
Production planning includes rate of production, types of garments, sizes of garments, etc.

80
Fabric wastages inside and outside of the marker:
Inside wastage:
That wastage that is obtained from the inter-spaces of the pattern pieces in the marker paper. It
depends on the efficiency of the marker maker and on the size of the patterns as well.
OUTSIDE WASTAGE:
Besides the inside wastages, some fabric is wasted outside of the marker –
Ends of the ply losses:
Generally each ply of the fabric losses up to 4 cm at both sides (Two sides * 2 cm).
End of fabric losses:
The length of fabric may sometimes not cover the ply, it may finish its end at less than 5 yards
(cut piece). This piece of fabric goes through wastage and is called end of fabric losses.
Selvedge losses:
Generally selvedge losses are 2% to 3%.
Purchase losses:
Sometimes losses may arise from purchase. Wrong consumption calculation may cause huge
wastage.
Computerized marker making system:
To get the optimum efficiency of markers as well as to minimize fabric wastage they done marker
by computerized marker making system (VEITH). It has the digitizer by which the patterns are
make grade and with the help of the software as well get output as marker with the plotter. The
VEITH system is discussed in below.
Description of CAD system is given below
In Cotton Club Winda CAD machine is used for pattern making, pattern grading and marker
making.

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PLOTTER MACHINE
Procedure of CAD section:
 In CAD section at first the pattern put on the digitizer to take clear image of the pattern part
inside the CPU.
 After making all required size patterns using the software pattern parts are aligned in the
mini marker. Then it is sent to CPU of CAM
section for approval and checking the length &
width of marker and pattern parts alignment.
 After getting approval from CAM section then
printer is used to print out the whole real
marker then this marker as well as mini
marker are provided to the CAM section
for cutting the fabric.
Working sequence 0f CAD section:
Receiving of pattern parts

Taking the image of pattern in CPU by Digitizer

Moderizing of all pattern parts by the software

Aligning all size pattern parts in the marker by the software

Completing the marker

Taking approval from CAM section

Bringing out the marker through plotter.
COMPUTERIZED MARKER MAKING
Sequence of operation for each product:
Order Collection
Development sample
Produce pre production sample

82
Sample approved
Pattern making
Marker making
Fabric spreading
Cutting
Sewin
Inspection
Packing
Then delivery or shipment

83
CHAPTER-7
CUTTING SECTION
Flow Chart of Cutting section:
Receive the Fabric
Fabric Inspection
Relaxation
Fabric Spreading
Manual Automatic
Marker Making
Manual CAD
Placing the Marker Paper on the Lay
Cutting
Manual cutting Automatic
cutting
Numbering
Bundle Card
Bundling According to Card Number
Quality (Panel Check)
Replacing

84
Solid
printing/Embroidery
Quality Check
M a t c h i n g
Size Wise Arrange/ cutting Number
Bundling
Rib/Piping/Cuff
Master Bundling
Sewing Input
Spreading
Spreading means the smooth laying out of the fabric in superimposed layers of specific length.
The cutting marker paper is laid in the top of the fabric layer. The usable width of the fabric
constraints the maximum width of the marker paper. During spreading number of the plies should
be not more than three hundreds but it depends on the thickness of the fabric and the height of
the cutting knife.
For example: if the thickness of the fabric is higher than the number of plies mentioned above
would not valid and in case of straight knife cutting instrument the maximum lay height should be
70% of the blade height.
Ideal Lay height for cutting
Fabric weight Woven Knits
Heavy Weight 4-5" 5-4"
Med Weight 3-4" 3-3.5"
Light Weight 2.5-3" 2-2.25"

85
Requirements of fabric spreading:
Spreading must achieve a number of specific objectives:
1. Alignment of fabric plies
2. Correct ply tension
3. Elimination of fabric faults
4. Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability
5. Elimination of static electricity
6. Avoidance of fusion of plies
7. Avoidance of distortion in spread
8. Easy separation of the cut lay into bundles
9. Fabric must be flat
10. Matching checks or strips.
Spreading system in factory
 Manual spreader group : 4 group
 Gerber Spreader : 3 pcs
Fabric Spreading
Cutting:
The definition of cutting is very complex. In garments industries fabric is cut from lay and
spreading with accuracy and properly which is termed as fabric cutting.
Marker outline is used to cut the fabric. Fabric cutting is very important as if something is cut in
wrong way, cannot be rectified.

86
Methods of Fabric
Cutting
Fabric cutting methods are as
follows:
Manual Method
 Scissor
 Straight knife
 Band knife
 Round knife
 Die cutting
 Notcher ,and
 Drill etc.
Computerized Method
 Straight knife cutting (GERBER Cutter)
 Water jet cutting
 Laser beam cutting, and
 Plasma torch cutting etc.
Cutting Section:
 Straight knife cutting machine :16 pcs
 Cutting table : 6pcs
Mainly two methods of manual cutting are used in factory
 Scissor
 Straight knife
Features of Scissor
 It is the first and oldest method of fabric cutting.
 This is used for cutting one or two plies of fabric.
 It can be cut the fabric accurately by proper caring.
 Separate systems are available to cut the fabric from left to right or right to left.
 Most of the fabrics can be cut by scissor. But it needs more time to cut the fabric
and contains high cost.
 For these reasons there is limited use of hand operated scissor.
 Hand operated scissor are available in tailoring and household purpose to cut the
fabric.
Straight knife cutting machine
Machine name : K.M company cloth cutting m/c
Model : K.M KS_AUV
Producer : made by K.M cutting m/c co, JAPAN
Typ : Heavy duty industrial cloth cutting m/c self
sharpening
Dimension : 8 inch width * 11 inch length * 24 inch height
Weight : 33.5 lb
Current : A.C (3.3/2.6 amps)

87
Speeds : 3000/3600
Machine parts
- Base plate
- Terminal block
- Plug
- Clamp washer
- Pressure foot
- Blade Straight knife cutting machine
- Sharpener pulley
- Pulley spring
- On/off switch
Features of Straight knife cutting
machine
 Possible to cut pattern pieces directly from
the fabric lays
 Could be used to cut for higher depth of
fabric
 High cutting speed
 Sharp and heavy corners can be cut
 Blade could be sharpened by attaching
grinding facilities
 Blade height 10 to 33 cm
 Blade stroke 2.5 to 4.5 cm
 Special attachment such as sew edge or
serrated edge can be provided for heavy fabric such as canvas or denim.
Advantages of straight knife
 Comparatively cheap and can be transferred easily from one place to another.
 Higher lay of height can be cut very easily.
 Round corners can be cut more precisely then even round knife.
 Production speed is very good as up to 10 heights can be cut at a time.
 Garment components can be directly separated from fabric lays.
 Fabric can be cut from any angle.
Disadvantages of straight knife
 Sometimes deflection may occur due to the weight of the motor.
 Knife deflection is high in risk, when lay height is too high
 Sometimes accident may happen.
Computerized Straight knife cutting (GERBER Cutter)
Fabric Height 7.2 cm 2.83 in
Throughout put-average 8m/min 315 in/min
Cutting Speed 30.5 m/min 1200 in/min
Head acceleration 2.4m/sec² 1/4g
Table Weight 4511 kg 9947 lbs
Control power 3 wire 200V-240V, 1 PH,50-60Hz
Table Vacuum 380/440V, 50/60 Hz
Average Energy Consumption 17KWh to 20KWh

88
Compressed Air Consumption 85 liters/min @6.8 bar
Temperature 43ºC 110º Fahrenheit
Vacuum upto 760m above sea level
Noise 80 DBA
Cutting Section Quality Control:
The step by step process by which we check quality in the Cutting Section.
Quality Inspection for Marker:
 Every parts Measurement check,
 Calculate the total no. of parts of each Garments,
 Marker length & width determined.
Fabrics Roll spreading Inspection:
 Roll number,
 GSM,
 Shade number,
 No. of lays,
 Ends of Bits
Spreading Quality Control (Defects):
 Table marking,
 Ends,
 Splices or Joints,
 Leaning,
 Tension,
 Counts,
 Fabrics flaws,
 Marker placing,
During Cutting Quality Control:
 Miscut,
 Matching plies,
 Ragged Cutting,
 Notches,
 Pattern Check
100% part Checking.
Numbering
In this stage sticker is attached with all part of cutting part for shade matching. The sticker
number maintains cutting number, size number, serial number.
Prepared the bundling card
Prepare bundling card according to fabric lay report this card maintain
Date

89
Style No
Size Number
Card Serial
Quantity
Color
Lot Number
Bundling according to card No
In this stage all number parts are bundled according to serial number.
Quality Check (Panel check)
a) Oil spot
b) Dirty spot
c) Crease mark
d) Needle mark
e) Foreign yarn
f) Slub
g) Contamination
h) hole
Then same numbers of sticker are matched fold & bundl
LIMITATION OF CUTTING SECTION
1. Input problem
2. There is may be no group for any table
3. Preparing the bundle cards by writing on a piece of fabric
4. Check, variegated rib fabric lay quantity may be excess. As a result reject
percentage may be increase.
5. Fabric spreading

90
CHAPTER-8
SEWING SECTION
Sewing
The process of joining of fabrics by the use of needle and sewing thread or by other techniques
is called sewing.
Elements of sewing
 Sewing Thread,
 Needle &
 Sewing Machine
Flow Chart of Sewing Section:
Input from cutting
Initial Inspection part by part
Stitching with Process Wise Quality Check
Table Quality Check
Size Wise Garments Count
Sucker Machine
Sewing Output

91
Sewing Thread
Almost all garments produced have one component in common; the sewing thread. Whilst
sewing thread is usually a relatively a small percentage of the cost of garments, it has an
extremely significant influence on the appearance and durability of the finished product. The
production of sewing thread is an extensive and complex subject.
Sewing thread used in factory
 Cotton
 Flaming thread
 Elastic thread
 Lorex thread
Sewing Needle
A sewing needle is long slender tool with a pointed tip. The
first needles were made of bone or wood; modern ones are
manufacturing from high carbon steel wire, nickel-or gold
plated for corrosion resistance. The highest quality
embroidery needles are made of platinum. Needle size is denoted by a number on the packet.
The convention for sizing is that the length and thickness of a needle increases as the size
number decreases. For example, a size 1 needle will be thicker and longer, while a size 10 will
be shorter and finer. The action of needle has a direct effect on seam strength and garments
performances.
Function of a Needle
The functions of a sewing needle are 
 To produce a hole in the material for the thread to pass through without causing any
damage to material.
 To form a loop that will be picked up by the hook of bobbin case.
 To pass the needle thread through the loop formed by the looper mechanism on
machines other than lock stitch.
Parts of a Sewing Needle
The different parts of a needle and their functions are
mentioned below:
Butt
It is the truncated conical shape at the top end of the needle
which is needed to attach the needle with needle bar or clamp.
Shank
Shank is the upper part of the needle which locates within the
needle bar. It may be cylindrical or flat at one side.
Shoulder
Shoulder is the section intermediate between the shank and the
blade.
Blade
It is the longest portion of the needle from the shoulder to eye.
This part is responsible for the most amount of friction between
needle and fabric.
Long Groove
There is a fine slot in the needle from its shoulder to eye. The
needle thread remains at this slot when the needle penetrates
the fabric and goes up and down.

92
Short Groove
Short groove is the slot on the side of the needle towards the hook or looper. It assists in forming
the loop of needle thread.
Eye
Needle eye is a hole at the tip of the needle through which the sewing thread passes. It prevents
the sewing thread form damage during sewing.
Scarf
Scarf or clearance cut is the portion across the whole faces of the needle just above the eye. Its
purpose is to enable a closer setting of the hook or looper to the needle.
Point
It provides the best penetration of material according to its nature and the appearance that has to
be produced.
Tip
Tip is the keen extreme end of the point.
Sewing machine
Types of sewing machine
 Plain m/c (S/N)
 Double needle m/c (D/N)
 Overlock m/c
 Flat lock m/c
 Kanshai m/c
 Button hole m/c
 Button join m/c
 Bartake m/c
 Cylinder bed m/c
 Flat bed m/c
Thread use in different Machine
Machine type Thread type
Plain/ Auto plain m/c 1 needle thread
1 bobbin thread
Double needle m/c 2 needle thread
2 bobbin thread
Over lock m/c 2 needle 2 needle threads
2 looper thread
Cylinder bed m/c 3 needle thread
1 spreader thread
1 lopper thread
Flat bed m/c 3 needle thread
1 spreader thread
1 lopper thread

93
Different Sewing Machine Parts
Single needle sewing machine or plain machine
Fig: plain m/c
Machine parts:
 Thread stand
 Thread Clamp
 Thread Retainer
 Thread up lever guide
 Thread guide
 Tension disk
 Pressure screw
 Pressure bar
 Pressure feet
 Hand lifter
 Needle clamp
 Needle
 Needle Plate
 Feed dog
 SPI adjuster
 Reverse lever
 Bobbin winder
 Pulley
 Oil sight winder
 Pulley belt cover
 Leg lifter
 Foot
 Safety guide
 Motor
Fig: Over lock sewing machine

94
Machine parts:
 Thread stand
 Thread Clamp
 Thread Retainer
 Thread guide
 Tension disk
 Pressure screw
 Pressure bar
 Pressure feet
 Pressure spring
 Eye protection Glass
 Upper & Lower Looper
 Needle clamp
 Needle
 Needle Plate
 Feed dog
 SPI adjuster
 Pulley
 Oil sight window
 Leg lifter
 Safety guide
 Motor
Cylinder bed machine
Fig: Cylinder bed machine
Machine parts:
 Thread stand
 Thread Clamp
 Thread Retainer
 Thread guide
 Tension disk
 Pressure screw
 Pressure bar
 Pressure feet
 Eye protection Glass
 Looper
 Needle clamp
 Needle
 Needle Plate
 Feed dog
 SPI adjuster
 Spreader Mechanism
 Pulley
 Safety guide
 Motor

95
Flat bed sewing machine
Fig: Flat bed sewing machine
Machine parts:
 Thread stand
 Thread Clamp
 Thread Retainer
 Thread up lever guide
 Thread guide
 Tension disk
 Pressure screw
 Pressure bar
 Pressure feet
 Hand lifter
 Needle clamp
 Needle
 Needle Plate
 Feed dog
 SPI adjuster
 Reverse lever
 Bobbin winder
 Pulley
 Leg lifter
 Eye protection guide
 Looper
 Spreader mechanism
 Piping mechanism (Folder)
 Safety guide
 Motor
Different types of sewing:
Stitch Name: Single thread blind stitch
ISO Stitching Code number: 103 (Blind Stitch)
Use in process: Blind hem, belt loop etc.
Face View
Back View (Not visible on back)
Stitch Name: Lock Stitch (it is the most common stitch
Face View
Back View (bobbin thread)
Stitch Name: Double needle Lockstitch:

96
Face View
Back View (bobbin thread)
Stitch Name: Zig Zag Lockstitch
Face View
Back View
Stitch Name: Chainstitch
Face View
Back View (Looper Thread on bottom)
Stitch Name: 2 needle chainstitch
Face View
Back View (double looper thread on bottom)
Stitch Name: Two needle cover stitch
Face View
Back View (Looper thread)
Stitch Name: Three needle cover stitch
Face View
Back View
Stitch Name: Three Thread Overedge
Face View
Back View

97
Sewing Quality checking points
 Skip/Drop/Broken stitch
 Raw edge
 Size mistake
 Uneven hem
 Uneven cuff
 Uneven neck
 Uneven shoulder
 Uneven placket
 Uneven pocket
 Twisting
 Without care label
 Open tack
 Sleeve up-down
 Stripe up- down
 Open seam
 Four point up-down
 Shading etc
Sewing Line quality Check List:
1. Buyer Approved Sample & Measurement Sheet Check.
2. Sample Wise Input Check.
3. Buyer Approved Trims Card Check.
4. Buyer Approved Sample Wise Style Check.
5. All Machine Thread Tension Check.
6. Style Wise Print & Embroidery Placement Check.
7. All Process Measurement Check.
8. All Machine Oil Spot Check.
9. All Process S.P.I Check as Per Buyer Requirement.
10. Input Time Shading, Bundle Mistake & Size Mistake Check.
11. Buyer Approved Wise Contrast Color Check.
12. As per Buyer Requirement Wise Styling Check.
13. All Machine Stitch Tension Balance Properly.
Sewing Table Quality Check List:
1. Style Wise Garments Check.
2. All Process Measurement Check..
3. Front Part, Back Part, Sleeve & Thread Shading Check.
4. S.P.I Check for All Process.
5. Print/Embroidery Placement Check.
6. Main Label, Care Label, Size Label &Care Symbol Check.
7. Size Mistake Check.
8. All Process Alter Check.
9. Any Fabric Fault /Rejection Check.

98
Sewing Defects:
 Needle damage,
 Skip stitches,
 Thread Breakages,
 Broken Stitches
 Seam Grin
 Seam Puckering
 Pleated Seam
 Wrong stitch density
 Uneven stitch density
 Staggered stitch
 Improperly formed stitches
 Minimizing slack times.
Sewing problems “factory”
 Input problem
 Shortage of skilled operator
 To achieved the overtime, they worked slowly
1. If any problem will create during production then
 Nobody will take the responsibility,
 Nobody will give the instant decision.
2. Sewing line production may be depends on incharge.
3. Needle hole- due to friction, needle eye is to large, mistake of needle selection.
4. Measurement problem- from cutting section
5. Seam pucker 
 Due to unequal tension of feed dog and pressure foot on two plies of fabric.
 Due to unequal thread tension.
 Shrinkage of either fabric or sewing thread.
6. Broken stitch 
 Due to tension variation between needle & bobbin thread.
 Tension of needle thread is more.
 Low quality sewing thread.
 Needle heating or hook heating.
 Sharp edge of throat plat, hook plate, bobbin cage, needle groove etc.
 Faulty fitting of bobbin cage.
 Sharp edge of bobbin cage, looper eyes and spring.
7. Skipped/ Slipped stitch
 If the timing between needle & looper or bobbin is not proper. Needle thread
loop is not picked up by bobbin thread loop when required.
 If the loop of needle becomes smaller in size, slipped stitch occurs.
 Unequal tension between sets of threads
 Deflection or vibration of needle.
8. Variable stitch density
 If fabric can not move forward properly due to lack of pressure of pressure
foot.
 Due to faulty feed mechanism.

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CHAPTER-9
FINISHING SECTION
Finishing Lay Out:
Flow chart of finishing section:
Garments wash
Loop cutting
Thread trimming
Alter checking
Stitch others
Button attach
Ironing (In side)
Inspection (inside & outside)
Batch label attach
Final ironing
Joker tag attach
Needle detector check
Size tag attach
Waist belt attach
Hanger attach
Poly packing
Cartooning
Shipment

100
Trims:
Trims cover all the items used in the garment except the basic fabric. There are hundreds of
items used to manufacture the garments. Proper selection of trims and its quality are very
important for styling; otherwise the garment may be rejected or returned by the customers.
Following is a part of list that covers some names of the items:
Zipper/Fastener:
Teeth : Nylon, Vislon, Metal
Color : Tape color, Teeth color
Size : #3, #5, #8, etc.
Length : As per requirement 18 cm, 72 cm
End : Close End (C/E), Open End (O/E)
Slider : One way, Reversible.
Sewing Thread:
 Shade, color fastness, etc.
 Tensile strength, Elasticity, Shrinkage, Moisture Regain, Abrasion Resistance,
etc.
 30s, 60s, 20/2, 40/9 Ne, etc.
Labels:
 Main label
 Size label
 Care label
 Content
 Price
 Patch, etc.
Button:
 Horn and
 Metal buttons are very common in use.
 ELASTIC:
 Cotton
 Polyester, etc.

101
Eyelet:
 Antique
 Matching, etc.
Velcro:
 Hook and Pile
String/Cord:
 Cotton
 Polyester, etc.
Tags:
 Price tags
 Hang tags, etc.
Polybag:
Strength, Chemical mixture, Thickness (micron/mm; 1mm = 1000 micron).
Blister Bag:
 0.05 mm in thickness;
 Loaded capacity is higher than poly bag.
Carton:
 3 ply
 5 ply
 7 ply Size (L, W, and H).
Sticker:
 Hook and Pile.
Plastic Clip
Tag pin
Scotch Tape
Hanger
Gum Tape
Etc

102
CHAPTER-10
IE DEPARTMENT
The main function of this department is to re- engineering the garment from the sampling stage
so that it would be production friendly for the production as well helps to increase the productivity
through machine layout, time and motion study.
In the sewn products industries we must continually ensure that we remain competitive and
profitable whilst also striving to improve our personal and community‘s standard of living.
Industrial Engineering Department :
 To follow up the production process
 Work process development
 SMV calculation & Line target
 Efficiency control
 Time study
 Capacity study
 Workers training
 M/c sequence lay out
 Thread consumption
 Operator Interview
Duties and Activities of A Work Study Officer:
 Style details collect
 SMV make
 Layout make
 Machine arrange
 Attend P.P meeting
 First week production plan
 Line feeding
 Work aid arrange
 Method study (innovation) & take video & record
 Time study
 Line capacity find out
 Bottle neck operation find out
 Individually follow up bottle neck operation and try To increase production
 Capacity & efficiency wise target setting & try to achieving
 Line balancing
 Motivation the worker
 Maximum time stay in production line & try to solve any kinds of production related
problem
 Monitoring the production achievement hourly & daily
 Loss time record
 Overall, try to increases the productivity.

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Layout Time standards
Work flow Hourly targets
Machinery Production checks
Standardize method Line balancing
Quality specification Training curves
Capital investment appraisal Maintain payment systems
Attachment
Sewing method specification
Method Study
The systematic recording and critical examination of existing and alternative methods of work, to
facilitate the introduction of more efficient and cost effective methods.
Workplace layout:
The layout of a workplace impacts directly on the pattern of movements and consequently time
taking to perfume and operation
When analyzing a method the following steps should be considered:
Work measurement:
There are number of different techniques that can be used to carry out work measurement within
the sewn products industries, the traditional alternative to general sewing data is time study.
The skills required are:
1. The ability, skill and experienced to read and operate a stopwatch.
2. The ability, skills and experienced to assess the rate of working (performance) of
individuals workers.
Time study:
This is the process by which we calculate the SMV (standard minute value) in ―in process
inspection‖. There are two types of SMV such as estimate SMV and garments SMV. It is done by
following formula,
Take a stop watch and take times for 10 times for a operation and finally calculate the SMV of
this operation and production per hour.
METHOD STUDY WORK MEASUREMENT

104
GLOSSARY OF TREMS
ALLOWANCES:
It is necessary to add allowances to the basic time for a task to compensate the operator for
specific conditions and circumstances encountered during a normal working period.
For example fatigue, personal needs, machine delays and emergencies.
These allowances are listed in the glossary in alphabetical order and a specimen reference table
is also set out under a separate handing
Basic Time:
The time for carrying out an element or cycle of work at standard performance rating depending
upon whichever scale is used
The formula is
Basic time
Break point:
the point at which one element of work cycle ends and the next‘s one begins. This point should
be easy to see and if possible to hear.
Cycle time:
The time taken to complete all elements of work that constitute the complete operation of work
cycle.
Production study:
In the sewn products industries it has become normal practices to record each operation cycle
performance rating and observed time. The time that the operator spends dealing with problems
ideally each problems being classified and the number of occurrences recorded, along with the
appropriate time is also recorded during the production study. This facilitates allowance checks.
Standard minute value (SMV):
The total time allowed for a job to be completed at a standard performance.
It includes the work content, relaxation, delay and contingence allowances as appropriate. It may
also include additional policy allowances.
Efficiency:
How well an individual or group performs against a predetermined standard (100%)
It is extremely difficult, arguably nearly impossible to achieve 100% efficiency using accurate
measured data, unless the same or vary similar styles run continuously year on year.
The formula is:
Line Balance:
Used to describe the mathematically calculation of outputs for a factory, line or team based upon
pre-determine levels of, production output, efficiency, attendance, operation sequences and
standard minuets values.

105
CHAPTER-11
MERCHANDISING
This chapter deals Merchandizing Department. It gives some information of
merchandizing, then it discusses about the requirement of different materials of making
garments. It ends with the recent price of different knitted fabric.
Merchandising department:
Merchandising department is the star of the department among all the working departments in
the Export concern, because Merchandising is the only department having maximum control over
the departments and total responsible for Profit and loss of the company.
After LPG (Liberalization, Privatization & Globalization) the business gets more important and
now merchandising is on its hot seats. So, it is necessary to understand the day to day
happenings of the star department.
Merchandise- means goods bought and sold; and trading of goods.
Merchandising- is an activity of selling and promoting the goods.
Merchandiser in garment industries:
In the field of marketing and services, Merchandiser is at a position of utmost importance, He is
the person who co-ordinates with various departments for a uniform business.
Objects of Merchandising
Merchandising denotes all the planned activities to execute and dispatch the merchandise on
time, taking into consideration of the 4 Rs to replenish the customer.
Right Quantity: To dispatch right quantity of product what buyer ordered.
Right Quality: It should be with right quality as accepted both parties.
Right Cost: Everybody wants more from what they are paid.
Right Time: No one wants to wait idle even in a Restaurant. Keeping delivery schedule is
mandatory.
Flow Chart of Garments Merchandizing
Buyer Correspondence & Meeting
↓
Recap Preparation
↓
Lab Dip & Yarn Dip
↓
Sample Fabric Booking
↓
Accessories for Sample
↓
Initial Sample Preparation
↓

106
Fitting Sample Preparation
↓
Photo Sample with actual specification
↓
Pre Production Sample Preparation
↓
Bulk Accessories Booking after Buyer‘s Approval
↓
Bulk Fabric Booking
↓
Size Set Sample/ Trail Cutting
↓
Production Start
Merchandising Calculation
FABRIC OR BODY CONSUMPTION:
 (Body length+ Sleeve length+ Allowance x Chest + Allowance x 2 x GSM /
10000000) x 12 x 10% (+)
= Result kg./dozen.
NB:
 BL+SL+ Allowance= 10 cm. Allowance.
 When keep the chest allowance then body width, chest width and bottom
width which is big ( cm) with ( 4 cm+) Added.
 10% overall Process Loss.
 1 dozen= 12 pcs.
BODY CONSUMPTION BY MARKER:
 Length x width x GSM x12 / 1000 / 1550 / Ratio x 12%
DIA MEASUREMENT:
 Chest or Bottom + Allowance / 2.54
=Dia / Result
NB:
 1 inch = 2.54 cm
 When I dia measurement then chest or bottom with (4-6 cm) allowance added.

107
SELF FABRIC OR RIB FABRIC NECK CONSUMPTION:
 Total Neck Length = Front neck drop + Back neck drop x 2
= Total neck length / Result.
 (Total Length + Allowance x Neck Width + Allowance x 2 x GSM /10000000) x 12 x
10%(+)
= Result kg. / Dozen.
NB:
 TL + Allowance = 2 cm
 NW + Allowance = 2 cm
 2 mean, Double part.
 10% overall process loss.
SELF OR RIB FABRIC NECK DIA MEASUREMENT:
 Neck opening or Width + Neck drop x 2 /2.54
= Result.
PANT & TROUSER OR PAJAMA CONSUMPTION:
 (Length + Allowance x dia x 2 x GSM / 10000000) x 12 x 10%(+)
= Result kg. / Dozen.
NB:
 L + Allowance # with self fabric waist minimum ( 12 cm) Allowance added.
 Without self fabric waist minimum (8 cm) Allowance added.
 Allowance minimum 15 cm added with Hip or Dia.
 DIA = Hip + Allowance / 2.54
NB:
 1 inch = 2.54 cm.

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