Industrial attachment of APS group ltd

1
Industrial Attachment-2014
INDUSTRIAL TRAINING
Course Code: Tex -4036
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT OF APS GROUP LTD.

2
Introduction
Industrial Attachment is the first step to professional life of a student. Especially of technical side it’s an indispensable part of study a practically running processing technology of an industrial unit for a student. In our University, processing machines are not in continuous running condition. So it would only provide demonstration of mechanical features & processing technology of the material in accomplishment of the theory there of but not of the situational variables to achieve practical knowledge. Six weeks industrial attachment program in a dying mill was arranged for us this type of attachment program enabled us to avoid the gap between theory & its applicability the mill practice the incumbent was deeded to APS Group (Dyeing Unit).
In the field of ever changing moderns fashion work. APS Group (Dyeing Unit). considers its prime mission to every new test. Which & demand of customers from around the World & all strains human culture DGL acts on the basis premise that fashion is an exploration in to the images people seek to convey about themselves & the way they live.
We have prepared this report as required in competition of my attachment course in regarding guideline given by the university authority which will lead to a strong guideline and milestone for our future carrier.

3
Table of Content
Chapter Description Page no Chapter-1 Over View of the Factory 5-17
Chapter-2
Raw Materials
18-24 Chapter-3 Knitting section 25-41
Chapter-4
Laboratory section
42-46 Chapter-5 Batch section 47-53
Chapter-6
Dyeing Section
54-76 Chapter-7 Water Treatment Plant “WTP” 77-79
Chapter-8
Finishing Section
80-95 Chapter-9 Quality Control 96-105
Chapter-10
Description of ETP
106-108 Chapter-11 Garments 109-115
Chapter-12
Maintenance
116-118 Chapter-13 Store & Inventory control 119-121
Chapter-14
Social & Environmental information
122-127

4
CHAPTER: 1
“Over View of the Factory”

5
Address: Pubail, Gazipur, Sadar, Gazipur

6
AT A GLANCE
APS Group (Dyeing Unit)
100% Export Oriented Composite Knitwear Factory
Address: Pubail, Gazipur, Sadar, Gazipur
Tel: +88-02-9815028, www.aps-group.org
Head Office - Pubail, Gazipur, Sadar, Gazipur
Tel: +88-02-9815028
Factory - Pubail, Gazipur, Sadar, Gazipur
Nature of project - 100% Export Oriented Composite Knitwear Factory
Bank - Bangladesh Shilpa Bank, Head Office, Dhaka.
Management - 1. Md. Alfaz Managing Director/Chairman
Contact Person - 1. Engr. Md. Rashedul Islam (Babu), General Manager (Fac.)
Mobile: 01713454160
 -2. Md. Rezaul Karim (Babu) Manager (Dyeing & Finishing)
Mobile: 01718218497
 3. Md. Bellal Uddin Manager (Knitting)
 4. Md. Musa Kalim (Manager Finishing)

7
Composition of Factory
The Enterprise have been organized in the following manner:
APS Group (Dyeing Unit) Unit : Fabrics Knitting
APS Group (Dyeing Unit) Unit : Fabrics Dyeing
Year of Establishment : January, 2000
Location:
Our Head office is located at a posh area called Uttara while the factory is located in an industrial area
at Pubail, Gazipur which is only 2.2 Km.
Production Capacity and Facilities :
1) Knitting Division :
Area : 10,000 sft.
Man Power : 46
Production
Capacity :
6000
Kgs/day
List of
machinery : As below

8
a)
Type of
Machine Circular Knitting Machineries
Sl.No. Dia Gauge
Qty of
feeder Brand/Origin Fabrics
No of
Machine
1 21"
20+24
63
Jiunn
long/Taiwan
Single Jersey
2
2 23" 69 3
3 25" 75
Single
Jersey/Pique
3
4 28" 84 2
5 30" 90 2
6 36" 108 1
7 34" 18+24 68
Rib/Interlock
1
8 40" 18+24 80 1
Equipped With Lycra Attachment Total 15
b)
Type of
Machine
Flat Knitting Machineries (Specially Collar &
Cuffs)
Sl.No. Length Gauge Colour Brand/Origin
No of
Machine
1 52"
14 6 Jy-Leh/Taiwan
2
2 68" 1

9
2) Dyeing Division :
Area : 25,200 sft.
Man Power : 195
Production Capacity : 10890
Kgs/day
List of Machinery : As below
a)
Type of
Machine
: Dyeing
Machineries
Sl.No. Origin / Brand Description of Machine Capacity in
KG
No. Of
Machine
1 AK / Taiwan AK brand high
temperature & high
pressure Dyeing
machine ( Model 2007)
500 2
2 250 1
3 100 1
c)
Type of
Machine : Fabrics Inspection Machineries
Sl.No. Model Origin Brand No of Machine
1 HCTIM Taiwan Hsing Cheng 1

10
4 50 1
5 600 2
6 800 2
7 Atmoispheric Dyeing
Machine
30 1
8 25 1
9 15 1
10
FONGS/China Atmoispheric Dyeing
Machine
1200 1
Total 5470 13
b) Type of Machine : Finishing Machineries
Sl.No. Brand Origin Description
of Machine
No. Of
Machine
1 Corino Italy Squeezer for
Tubler
Knitted
Fabric
2
2 LK Taiwan 4- Chamber
Tensionless
Dryer
1
3 FAB-CON USA Computerized
Compactor
1
4 Tube-Tex USA Computerized
Compactor
1
5 Hsing Cheng Taiwan Over Turning
Machine
1
c) Type of Machine : Laboratory Machineries
The Factory is equipped with a most modern set up of brand new & latest Model Laboratory

11
and quality
control machine.
Sl.No. Description of
Machine
Brand Origin No.Of
Machine
1 Infra-Red
Laboratory Dyeing
Machine-12pot
Labtec Taiwan 1
2 Spectrophotometer Loepfe Switzerland 1
3 European Washers James.H Heal UK &
Switzerland
1
4 Sartorious Portable
Digital Balances
1
5 Verivide Colour
Assessment
Cabinet
1
6 Crockmeters 1
7 Prespiration
Machine
1
FABRICS BRUSHING UNIT
01 Fabrics brushing Machines:
Per Machine 24 Roller; Made
in Taiwan Ar Tex For S/J Light
Brush, Fleece One side Brush
& polar fleece-bith sides
brushed.
2
Sets
1. We Have 2 set brushing
Machines We are able to
raise/brushing for one side
or both side brush.
Capacity: 6000 Kg per day
with standard quality.

12
Factory Information
Factory Type : 100% Export Oriented Knit Composite
Industry.
Year of establishment : 2000
Investor : Mr. Shihab Uddin
Location : Pubail, Gazipur.
Annual turnover : Tk. 10, 00, 00,000 to 12, 00, 00,000
Certification & awards : ISO 9001:2000 & WRAP
Production capacity : Knitting : 15.5 tons/day (Average)
Dyeing : 15.5 ton/day (Average)
Sewing : 100000 pcs/day (Average)
Main Production : Basic T-Shirt, Tank top, Long Sleeve, T-Shirt,
Polo Shirt, Shorts, Pajama, Set, Ladies ,Kids Knitwear&
all kinds of knit garments & Knit fabrics.

13
BASIC LAY-OUT OF THE FACTORY
7
1
4 3 2
9
10
11
12
13
8
1
6
5
Entry

14
1. Security office
2. Mosque
3. Store
4. Knitting section
5. Finishing (Gr. Floor)+ Knitting (2nd Floor)+ Garment
section (3rd -7th Floor)
6. Fabric dyeing & finishing section
7. Yarn dyeing section
8. Garments section
9. Garments section
10.Maintenance Building
11.Water Treatment Plant (WPT)
12.Human Resources Department (HRD)
13.Generator House

15
Man Power Management in APS Group (Dyeing Unit) Textile Ltd.
Knitting section
Dyeing & Finishing Section
AGM
PM
Store In charge Knitting Master Supervisor
Fitter man
Operator
Fitter man
Operator
GM
DGM
PM
SPO Batch
Incharge
Finishing
Incharge
Lab
Incharge
PO
APO
Supervisor
Sr. Operator
Operator
Astt. Operator
Sewing man
Helper
Turning m/c
Operator
Helper
Sewing man
Squeeze
Operator
Dryer
Operator
Compactor
Operator
Helper
Lab
Technician
Q.C.
Technician

16
Section-wise manpower
Department Manpower
Knitting 300
Dyeing & Finishing, Lab & QC Yarn Fabric
309 405
Garments 3325
Power, Boiler, Utility & Maintenance 173
Inventory 15
Administration 54
Security 135
Others 590
Total 5306

17
Chapter- 2
“Raw Materials”

18
Raw material
Raw material is a unique substance in any production oriented textile industry. It plays a vital role in
continuous production and for high quality fabric.
Types of Raw Materials:
1. Yarn
2. Grey Fabric
3. Dyes
4. Chemical
Raw Materials Sources and Costs:
1. Yarn:
PARTY NAME YARN CATEGORY RATE $ (KG) RATE (Tk. /
KG)
QUANTITY (KGS)
Shameem Spinning 20s/1 CVC 2.70 158 400.00
Padma Textile Mills 30s/1 CVC 3.00 175 3628.80
Square Textile Mills 24s/1 Comd 2.95 172 850.00
Square Textile Mills 12s/1 Kard 2.05 120 500.00
Prime Composite Mills 32s/1 Comd 2.95 172 2550.00
Pacific Textile Mills ltd. 20s/1 Kard 2.58 151 2000.00
Luksme Textile Mills ltd. 26s/1 Kard 2.62 153 2000.00
Mosharaf Textile Mills ltd. 30s/1 Kard 2.62 153 3250.00
Prime Composite Mills 32S/1 Comd 2.95 172 22500.00
PHP Textile Mills ltd. 24S/1 Comd 3.02 176 10000.00
Badsha Textile Mills ltd. 34S/1 Comd 3.25 190 20000.00
Shamsuddin Spinning 24S/1 Comd 3.00 175 6700.00
Shamsuddin Spinning 26S/1 Comd 3.00 175 4350.00

19
Tara Textile Mills ltd. 20S/1 Comd 3.00 175 1500.00
Israq Textile Mills ltd. 30s/1 Kard 2.55 149 661.84
Shamsuddin Spinning 30s/1 Comd 3.05 178 1150.00
Shamsuddin Spinning 26s/1 Comd 3.00 175 1800.00
Prime Composite mills 20s/1 Kard 2.40 140 1400.00
Prime Composite mills 24s/1 Comd 2.85 166 1900.00
Hanif Spinning Mills 28s/1 Comd 3.05 178 3800.00
2. Grey Fabrics:
Following types of grey fabrics are dyed-
 Single jersey
 Double jersey
 Single jersey with lycra
 Interlock
 Single Lacoste
 Double Lacoste
 Rib
 Lycra rib
 1 x 1 rib & others
 Collar & cuff
 Polyester fabrics
 Single Pique
 Double Pique
 Terry Fillece
 Filleece

20
Sources:
The required grey fabric is produce in the industry
3. Chemicals:
Chemicals Rate per kg
01. Soda ash light 13
02. Caustic Soda 30
03. Common salt 7
04. Glauber Salt 9
05. H2O2 28
06. Acetic Acid 12
07. Oxalic Acid 44
08. Bleaching Powder 22
09. Hydrose 48
10. Leuphore BMB 520
11. Uvtex BHT 309
12. Uvtex BHV 289
13. Uvtex BAM 310
14. Syno White 4BK 340
15. Uvtex BFE 919
16. Albatex FFC 344
17. CHTE nt. K50 249
18. Invadine Lun 136
19. Feloson NOF 174
20. Invadine DA 180
21. Invatex CS 74
22. Cibacel DBC 107

21
23. Sarbid LDR 150
24. Mcropan DPE 126
25. Cibapon R 150
26. Ctobalance NSR 189
27. Rucozen RES 118
28. Tinofix FRd 150
29. Lily XXL powder 40
30. Rewan Acp 145
31. Cibatex ECO 150
32. Invatex CRA 200
33. Heptole EMG 114
34. Cibafluide C 89
35. Biovin 109 181
36. Tinozym 44L 569
37. Beizym ULBD 347
38. Invatex PC 97
39. Invatex AC 117
40. Catalar BF 324
4. Dyes:
Dyes Rate per kg
01. Solazol Black sp GRI 300
02. Reactofix Red ME4BL 262
03. Cottofix Red ME4BL 262
04. Reactofix Orange ME2RL 294
05. Reactofix N.ME2GL 354

22
06. Reactive Yellow H4GL 500
07. Reactive Deep Black N 200
08. Cottofix Black B 141
09. Reactive Blue R(SP) 950
10. Remazol Red RR 1080
11. Remazol Yellow RR 746
12. Remazol Blue RR 908
13. Remazol Blue BB NEW 2280
14. Remazol T. Blue G 344
15. Remazol B Yellow 3GL 1167
16. Remazol Red RGD 725
17. Cibacron Red FN2BL 1488
18. Cibacron Red FB 918
19. Cibacron Red FN3G 1018
20. Cibacron Red WB 542
21. Cibacron Blue FNR 1488
22. Cibacron Blue FGFN 1540
23. Cibacron Navy WB 323
24. Drimarin Yellow CL2RL 510
25. Drimarin Red CL5B 494
26. Drimarin Violet K2RL 1600
27. Drimarin Navy CLB 743
28. Drimarin Blue CT2R 1647
29. Bezaktrive Yellow S3R 516
30. Bezaktrive Yellow SLF 975
31. Bezaktrive Yellow V GL 1321

23
32. Diss Yellow F5GL 400
33. Diss Red BF 600
34. Diss Blue FRL 1100
35. Diss Navy 2GL 300
36. Diss Black EXNSF 300
37. Terasil Black WNS 300
38. Terasil Red FB 600
39. Terasil Red WFS 600
40. Terasil Red W4BS 600
Remarks:
The APS Group (Dyeing Unit). Ltd uses best quality raw materials. It produces fabrics from best quality
yarn. They uses the best quality dyes like REMAZOL, REACTRON, REACTIVE, TERACIL etc. During the time
of using dyestuff they give importance upon the quality of dyes than the price of the dyes and chemicals.

24
CHAPTER: 3
“KNITTING SECTION”

25
Machine Description of Knitting Section:
M/C
S/L
M/C
Dia
M/C
Gauge
M/C
Model
No. Of
Feeder
No. Of
Needle
M/C
Spec
Brand Origin
1 30” Rib-18
Int-24
XR2B/CE 60 1692 Rib/Inte
rlock
PAI LUNG TAIWAN
2 28” 24 KS3B-W/
A/CE
84 2112 S/J PAI LUNG TAIWAN
3 28” 24 KS3B-W/
A/CE
4 32” 24 KS3B-W/
A/CE
End products of Circular Knitting Machine:
Single Jersey M/C:
S/J Plain
Single Lacoste
Double Lacoste
Single pique
Double pique
Mini jacquard
Terry
Interlock M/C:
Interlock pique
Eyelet fabric
Mash fabric
Honeycomb fabric
Face/Back rib

26
Rib M/C:
1*1 Rib fabric
2*2 Rib fabric
Separation fabric
Honeycomb
End products of Flat Bed Knitting Machine:
Tripping
Plain
Emboss
Considerable points to produce knitted fabrics:
When a buyer orders for fabric then they mention some points related to production and quality.
Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to consider. Those are as follows-
- Type of Fabric or design of Fabric.
- Finished G.S.M.
- Yarn count
- Types of yarn (combed or carded)
- Diameter of the fabric.
- Stitch length
- Color depth.

27
Name & Picture of Knitting Machine in APS knitwear Textile
Ltd.
Machine Name Number of machine Production per
shift(kg)
S/J Machine (Mayer &
Cie)
10 3 Ton.
S/J Machine (Pai-lung) 08 2.3 Ton.
Rib Machine (Mayer &
Cie)
03 1.2 Ton.
Rib Machine (Pai-lung) 05 1.6 Ton.
Interlock Machine(Mayer
& Cie)
04 1.6 Ton.
Interlock Machine (Pai-lung)
05 1.5 Ton.

28
Fig: PAI LUNG Knitting Machine

29
Fig: FUKAHARA Knitting Machine

30
Fig: Mayer & Cie knitting machine

31
Knitting Production and Raw Materials:
Methods of increasing production:
By the following methods the production of knitted fabric can be increased –
By increasing m/c speed:
Higher the m/c speed faster the movement of needle and ultimately production will
be increased but it has to make sure that excess tension is not imposed on yarn
because of this high speed.
By increasing the number of feeder:
If the number of feeder is increased in the circumference of cylinder, then the
number of courses will be increased in one revolution at a time.
By using machine of higher gauge:
The more the machine gauge, the more the production is. So by using machine of
higher gauge production can be increased.
By imposing other developments:
 Using creel-feeding system
 Applying yarn supply through plastic tube that eliminates the possibilities of
yarn damage
 Using yarn feed control device
 Using auto lint removal.

32
Production calculation:
A. Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency:
Yarncount
RPM No of Feeder No of Needle SL mm

  

3527.80
. . ( )
B. Production/shift in meter:
/ 100
. 60 12
/
/min.

   


Course cm
RPM No of Feeder Efficiency
Course cm
Course
C. Fabric width in meter:
/ 100
.
/ 100
.




Wales cm
Total no of Needlesused in knitting
Wales cm
Total no of wales

33
Process flow chart of knitting:
Yarn in cone form
↓
Feeding the yarn cone in the creel
↓
Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip-tape positive feeding arrangement and tension device
↓
Knitting
↓
Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting
↓
Inspection
↓
Numbering
Raw materials for knitting:
Type of yarn Count
Cotton 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S, 32S, 34S, 40S
Polyester 75D, 72D,100D
Spandex yarn 20D,40D, 70D
Grey Mélange (C-90% V-10%) 24S, 26S
PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton) 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S
CVC 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S

34
Some points are needed to maintain for high quality fabric:
Brought good quality yarn
Machines are oiled and greased accordingly
G.S.M, Stitch length, Tensions are controlled accurately
Machines are cleaned every shift and servicing is done after a month
Grey Fabrics are checked by 4 point grading system
Changing of GSM:
Major control by QAP pulley
Minor control by stitch length adjustment
Altering the position of the tension pulley changes the G.S.M. of the fabric.
If pulley moves towards the positive direction then the G.S.M. is decrease.
And in the reverse direction G.S.M will increase
Other m/c in Knitting Section:
Gray Inspection M/c, Brand : Uzu fabric inspection machine
Electric Balance for Fabric Weight.
Electric Balance for GSM check.
Compressor 2 pieces.
Production Parameter:
Machine Diameter;
Machine rpm (revolution per minute);
No. of feeds or feeders in use;
Machine Gauge;
Count of yarn;
Relationship between knitting parameter:
1. Stitch length increase with decrease of GSM.
2. If stitch length increase then fabric width increase and Wales per inch
decrease.
3. If machine gauge increase then fabric width decrease.
4. If yarn count increase (courser) then fabric width increase.

35
5. If shrinkage increases then fabric width decrease but GSM and Wales per inch increase.
6. For finer gauge, finer count yarn should use.
7. Gray GSM should be less than finish GSM
Considerable points to produce knitted fabrics:
When a buyer orders for fabric then they mention some points related to production and
quality. Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to consider.
Those are as follows-
Type of Fabric or design of Fabric.
Finished G.S.M.
Yarn count
Types of yarn (combed or carded)
Diameter of the fabric.
Stitch length
Color depth.
Effect of stitch length on color depth:
If the depth of color of the fabric is high loop length should be higher because in case of fabric
with higher loop length is less compact. In dark shade dye take up% is high so GSM is adjusted
then. Similarly in case of light shade loop length should be relatively smaller
Factors that should be change in case of fabric design on quality change:
a) Cam setting
b) Set of needle
c) Size of loop shape

36
Faults & Remedies of knitting fabric:
Hole Mark:
Causes:
 Holes are the results of yarn breakage or yarn cracks.
 During loop formation the yarn breaks in the rejoin of the needle hook.
 If the yarn count is not correct on regarding structure, gauge, course and
density.
 Badly knot or splicing.
 Yarn feeder badly set.
Remedies:
1.Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as uniform.
2.Use proper count of yarn.
3.Correctly set of yarn feeder.
4.Knot should be given properly.
Needle Mark:
Causes:
 When a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the fabrics.
 If a needle or needle hook is slightly bends then needle mark comes on the
fabrics.
Remedies:
 Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch.

37
Sinker Mark:
Causes:
 When sinker corrode due to abrasion then some times can not hold a new loop as a
result sinker mark comes.
 If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes.
Remedies:
 Sinker should be changed.
Star Mark:
Causes:
 Yarn tension variation during production.
 Buckling of the needle latch.
 Low G.S.M fabric production.
Remedies:
 Maintain same Yarn tension during production.
 Use good conditioned needles.
Drop Stitches:
Causes:
 Defective needle.
 If yarn is not properly fed during loop formation i.e. not properly laid on to the
needle hook.
 Take-down mechanism too loose.
 Insufficient yarn tension.
 Badly set yarn feeder.

38
Remedies:
 Needle should be straight & well.
 Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation.
 Correct take up of the fabric & correct fabric tension.
 Yarn tension should be properly.
Oil stain
Causes:
 When oil lick through the needle trick then it pass on the fabrics and make a line.
Remedies:
 Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics.
 Well maintenance as well as proper oiling.
Rust stain:
Causes:
 If any rust on the machine parts.
Remedies:
 If any rust on the machine parts then clean it.
 Proper maintenance as well as proper oiling.
Pin hole:
Causes:
 Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the fabric.
Remedies:
 Change the needle.
Grease stain:
Causes:
 Improper greasing
 Excess greasing

39
Remedies:
 Proper greasing as well as proper maintenance
Cloth fall- out:
Causes:
 Cloth fall- out can occur after a drop stitch especially when an empty needle
with an empty needle with closed latch runs into the yarn feeder and remove
the yarn out of the hook of the following needles.
Remedies:
 Make sure all the latches of needle are closed with feeding yarn after a drop
stitch.
Barre:
A fault in weft knitted fabric appearing as light or dark course wise (width
wise) stripe(s).
Causes:
 This fault comes from yarn fault.
 If different micro near value of fiber content in yarn.
 Different lusture, dye affinity of fiber content in yarn.
 During spinning different similar classes of fiber is mixed specially in carded yarn &
these fibers have similar characteristics.
 In draw fame different similar classes sliver is mixed and make one sliver.
Fly:
Causes:
 In knitting section too much lint is flying to and fro that are created from yarn due to
low twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere or attaches to the fabric surface
tightly during knit fabric production.

40
Remedies:
 Blowing air for cleaning and different parts after a certain period of time.
 By cleaning the floor continuously.
 By using ducting system for cleaning too much lint in the floor.
 Over all ensure that lint does not attach to the fabric.
Yarn contamination:
Causes:
 If yarn contains foreign fiber then it remains in the fabric even after finishing,
 If lot, count mixing occurs.
Remedies:
 By avoiding lot, count mixing.
 Fault less spinning.
Yarn Faults:
 Neps.
 Slubs.
 Yarn count.
 Thick/Thin place in yarn.
 Hairiness.

41
CHAPTER:4
“LABORATORY SECTION”

42
Machine Description of Dyeing Lab:
1. Name : Auto Dispenser
Brand : Robolab 240
Mfg. : Sclavos International
Origin : England.
2. Name : Sample Dyeing m/c
Brand : Datacolor (AHIBA IR)
Origin : India
Brand : Datacolor (AHIBA Nunance)
Origin : India
Brand : Datacolor (AHIBA Nunance)
Origin : India
5. Name : Sample Dyeing m/c (High Temp.)
Brand : Dexter
Mfg. : Yuan Shen Enterprise Co., Ltd.
Origin : Taiwan
6. Name : Washfast Test m/c
Brand : Washfast uni
Mfg. : Mag Engineers Ltd
Origin : India

43
Name and source:
Fabric:
1. 100 % Cotton fabric
2. CVC fabric
3. PC fabric
4. Lycra twill fabric
5. Canvas fabric
6. Poplin fabric
Dye stuff:
Generic Name Source
Bezective
Black-S-MAX
Bezema
Blue-S-FR-150%
Blue-SLF
Blue-S-MAX
Blue-S-GLD-150%
Cosmos-S-MAX
Navy-SLF
Orange-S-MAX
Red-S-2B
Red-S-2B-150%
Red-SGT
Red-SLF
Red-S-MAX
Rubine-S-MAX
Scarlet-S-2GF
Yellow-S-3R-150%

44
Yellow-SLF
Yellow-S-MAX
Yellow-V-5GL
Bluton BVBI CHT
Skaywhite BVB
Cibacron
Blue-HGN
Ciba
Brill blue-NF-G
Red-NF-R
Scarlet-NF-6G
Yelloe-F-4G
Yellow-FN-2R
Dianix
Black-CC-R
Dychufix
Blue-CC
Blue-S-BB
Blue-SE-2R
Dianix blue-ER-150
Navy-CC
Red-EFB
Rubine-CC
Turquise-CC
Yellow-E-3GE
Yellow-S-EG

45
Chemicals:
Generic Name
Ablu Ablusoft-AC-720
Ablutex-AP-750HC
Ablutex-BBV
Boiler Nalco-450
CHT Felosan-NOF
Meropan-CIT
Meropan-Red
Polyavin-3000
Saravid-VP-174
Clariant
Antioxidant-M
Destofil-LC
Diresul-Antioxidant-M-Liq
Ladiquest-1097
Sandozin-EH
Cognis
Adalin-11
Adasil-SME
Cottoclarin-114
Dyapol Dyapol-ECO
Effluent
Ferrous-Sulphate-(Feso4-7H2o)
Hydrochloric-Acid(HCL)
Lime
Polymer
Sodium-Hypo-Chloride(NaOCl)
Urea-Fertilizer

46
Chapter- 5
“Batch section”

47
Batching:
Batching is the process to get ready the fabrics that should be dyed and processed for a Particular lot
of a Particular order.
Types:
Batching
Solid Batch Ratio Batch
 Solid Batch: It is a process to get ready the same dia fabrics that should be dyed.
 Ratio Batch: It is a process to get ready the different dia fabrics that shoud be dyed.
Batch process follow-up:
Grey Fabric Inspection
Batch m/c (From back side to face side)
Batch
Fabric Turning
Stitch the fabric
Storing for dyeing

48
Grey fabric inspection:
Grey Fabric Check to Inspection Table. Tow person are checking continuously. Do have any problem find
out any Fabric Then mark as defect zone. To inform the upper position and also to take this problem
solves. Proper inspection report is not available. To attach numbering in defect fabric.
Fabric faults identification & their causes and remedies:
1. Hole Mark:
Causes:
1. Bad needle
2. Take down mechanism too tight
3. High tension on yarn
4. Badly tied knots.
Remedies:
1. Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as uniform.
2. Correctly set of yarn feeder.
3. Knot should be given properly.
2. Needle trace:
Causes:
A new needle which is tight in its trick, a worn trick a bout needle, tight latch.
Remedies:
Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch.
3. Drop Stitches:
Causes:
1. Defective needle.
2. Take-down mechanism too loose.
3. Insufficient yarn tension.
4. Badly set yarn feeder.
Remedies:

49
1. Needle should be straight & well.
2. Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation.
3. Correct take up of the fabric & correct fabric tension.
4. Yarn tension should be properly.
4. Star Mark:
Causes:
1. Yarn tension variation during production.
2. Buckling of the needle latch.
3. Low G.S.M fabric production.
Remedies:
1. Maintain same Yarn tension during production.
2. Use good conditioned needles.
5. Oil stain:
Causes:
When oil lick through the needle trick then it pass on the fabrics and make a line.
Remedies:
1. Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics.
2. Well maintenance as well as proper oiling.
6. Pin hole:
Causes:
Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the fabric.
Remedies:
Change the needle.

50
10. Yarn contamination:
Causes:
1. If yarn contains foreign fiber then it remains in the fabric even after finishing.
2. If lot, count mixing occurs.
Remedies:
By avoiding lot, count mixing.
.Purpose of Batch Section:
To receive the grey fabrics roll from knitting section or other source.
To turn out the tubular fabric in its grey stage and to safe the face side of the fabric from any type of
friction during the time of dyeing.
To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria-
-Order sheet (Receive from buyer)
-Dyeing shade (Color or white, light or Dark)
M/c available
-Type of fabrics (100% cotton, PC, CVC)
-Emergency
To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.
To keep records for every previous dyeing.
According to Rope Length Uses This Nozzle:
Rope Length(m) Nozzle
5-150 1
151-230 2
301-500 3

51
501-700 4
701-1000 6
1001-1500 10
Calculation:
Rope Length: 19690 × Fabric weight . = Result
Fabric grey G.S.M × Fabric Grey dia
To say uses this 4 nozzle then to divided by 4 this Result
Or, Dia (cm) × 2 / 100 × G.S.M = Result
1000 / Result = per kg Rope length in Meter
Say buyer requirements:
Red color:
21” 22” 23” 24” 25” 26” Rib (4%): 30”.
100.0
500.0 800.0 300.0 600.0 200.0 100.0
Total: 2600 Kg
Rib: 4% (25 Kg)
Say m/c Capacity: 630 Kg
Total Body: 2600-100=2500Kg
 Solid Batch: Body- 605 kg
Rib- 25 kg
630 kg
 Ratio Batch( 21”): 500×630
2600
= 121 kg

52
To apply the same requirements
21”=121.0
22”=144.0
23”=73.0
24”=73.0
25”=48.0
26”=24.0
Rib (30”) = 25.0
Total= 630 Kg
Rope Length:
19690 × Fabric weight .
Fabric grey G.S.M × Fabric Grey dia
= 19690×630
165×27
To say uses this 4 nozzle then to divided by 4 this Result
= 2784
4
= 696 m (Length per Nozzle)
Remarks: Batch section is well. Properly Fabric inspection report to maintained .Fabric rake is not well
any time it will crumb on the floor.

53
CHAPTER:6
“DYEING SECTION”

54
Dyeing:
Dyeing is the process of imparting colors to a textile material in loose fiber, yarn, cloth or garment form
by treatment with a dye.
Production parameters:
Particulars PH Temperature Time
Scouring bath 11.00 980C 40-50 min
Enzyme bath 4.5-5.0 500-550C 50 min
Dye bath 5.5-6.5 --- ---
Soaping bath 6.5-7.0 900C-980C 20 min
Softening bath 6.0 400C-450C 20 min
Fixing bath 5.5-6.0 450-500C 20 min
Liquor ratio:
Scouring: 1: 8
Dyeing:
Light and critical color: 1: 8
Normal and dark color: 1: 7
Turquoise Color: 1: 10
Soaping: 1: 8
Softening: 1:5 - 6

55
General Classification of dye stuff (Dyers Point of view):
Coloring matters
Dyes Pigment
Water soluble Water insoluble Vat Azoic Mineral
Vat Sulpher Disperse
Direct Acid Basic Reactive Optical whiteners

56
Pretreatment process for 100% cotton / cotton elasten
fabrics:
400C
500C caustic
70 H2O2 0C
980C
60’
20C/m
in
600C
Drain/rinse3’
800C
10’
Drain/rinse3’
500C
15’
550C
Enzyme
60’
H2O2 killer
Drain/rinse3’
Acetic acid
PH4.5-5.0
400C
600C
15’
Drain
Detergent+Anticrease+Antifoam+Stabilizer
Detergent (Demineralizer)

57
Procedure:
Scouring & Bleaching:
- Fabric to be scoured is loaded in the machine
- Required amount of water is loaded
- Washing agent/ detergent is added
- Steam pipes are on & scouring agents (i.e. Caustic soda/ Soda ash) added when the temperature
reaches at 500C
- When the temperature reaches at 600C then stabilizer is added
- When the temperature reaches at 700C then H2O2 is added
- Temperature is then raised to 980C and the process is then carried out for 60-90 mins depending
on the requirements
- Cool down the bath temperature at 600c by 20C/ min .
- The liquors are then drained
- Then hot wash at 800C and acid wash at 600-700C is done
- Salt, soda, Enzyme, BD sample check after finish this adding. and run time.
Enzyme Treatment:
- Take water in the bath at required level
- Add acetic acid, for control PH. ( PH- 4.5-5.0)
- Temperature is then raised to 500C and the process is then carried out for 15 mins
- To added H2O2 killer
- Raise the temperature at 550C then to added Enzyme .run the dye bath at 60 mins .
Demineralizer
- To added detergent at 400C.

58
Recipe for Pretreatment:
Demineralizing:
- Detergent(MD.4)- 0.1 g/l
- Detergent( MD.4) - 0.3 g/l
- Ant creasing( Anti) – 0.5 g/l
- Antifoaming ( TCT ) - 0.1 g/l
- Stabilizer (qtab IGE) – 0.6 g/l
- Oil remover( OSR) – 0.5 g/l
- Sequestering (IN.CS) – 1.0 g/l
- Caustic soda ( caustic) – 2.0 g/l
- Peroxide(H2O2) – 7.0 g/l
Neutral:
- Peroxide killer
- Acetic acid(P.2900) – 0.8 g/l
Enzyme:
- Acetic acid (P.2900) – 0.4 g/l
- Enzyme(CONC) – 0.6 g/l

59
Dyeing process for 100% cotton light, medium, is critical shade:
Procedure:
- To added leveling, Ant creasing, Sequestering, Glaubersalt, Soda ash, at 600C. Run the bath 10
mins.
- The temperature is then raised to 780C then to added Dyes by 25 mins. Run the bath 15 mins.
- To added 1/3 salt by 10 mins. Run the bath 5 mins then to added 2/3 salt by 15 mins and also run
the bath 10 mins.
- Cool down the bath temperature at 600c by 10C/ min run the bath 6 mins then to added 1/5soda
by 25 mins .Run the bath 5 mins then to added 4/5soda by 30 mins
- Run the bath 30-60 mins matches the shade percentage and drop the bath.
- Salt, soda, BD sample check after finish this adding and run time..
Recipe:
Dye bath: Dyestuff: D/F yellow EC: 1.4%
- Levelling(Splus) – 0.4 g/l D/F Red EC:1.1%
- Ant creasing(ANTI) – 0.5 g/l D/F N Blue EC:1.8%
- Sequestering(2207) – 0.5 g/l
- Glaubersalt(G.salt) – 70 g/l
- Soda ash(SODA) – 17 g/l
600C
10’
780C
25’ 15’ 10’ 5’ 15’ 10’
Dyes
Run 1/3
salt
Run 2/3
salt
Run
6’
25’ 5’ 30’ 30’-60’
1/5
soda
4/5
soda
Levelling

60
Dyeing process for Black, Navy, Red and any normal dark
shade:
Procedure:
mins.To require PH-6.5
- To added Dyes by 25 mins. Run the bath 15 mins.
- To added salt by 25 mins. Run the bath 30 mins.
- To added soda by 20 mins and also run the bath 5mins.
- To added caustic by 25 mins
- Run the bath 45 mins matches the shade percentage and drop the bath.
Recipe:
Dye bath: Dyestuff: CIBA yellow 3RS: 2.46%
- Levelling(Splus) – 0.3 g/l CIBA Red 3BS:1.0233%
- Ant creasing(ANTI) – 0.5 g/l cotto Black WNN:6.4944%
- Caustic soda(caustic) – 1.5 g/l
- Soda ash(SODA) – 5.0 g/l
600C
5’
25’ 15’ 2350’’ 20’ 5’ 25’
Dyes Run
time
salt
Run
time
soda Run
time
caustic
Levelling
PH-6.5
45’

61
Aftertrearment:
- Soaping(prowash1011) – 0.7 g/l
- Softener(5300) – 1.5%
Dyeing process for Remazol RR-series dyestuff/Normal shade:
Procedure:
mins.To require PH-6.5.
- To added Dyes by 25 mins. Run the bath 15 mins.
- To added 1/3 salt by 10 mins. Run the bath 5 mins.
- To added 2/3salt by 15 mins and also run the bath 25mins.
- To added 1/5 soda by 25 mins and run the bath 5 mins then added to 4/5 soda by 30 mins.
Recipe:
Dye bath: Dyestuff: R/M yellow 3GS: 0.4416%
- Levelling(Splus) – 0.4 g/l R/M yellowRR:0.00735%
- Ant creasing(ANTI) – 0.5 g/l R/M Blue RR:0.0084%
- Soda ash(SODA) – 5.0 g/l
600C
5’
25’ 15’ 10’ 5’ 15’ 25’ 25’ 30’ 30’-60’
Dyes 1/3
salt
2/3
salt
1/5
soda
4/5
soda
Run
time
Run
time
Run
time
Run
time
Run
time
5’
Run
Level ling
PH-6.5

62
Aftertrearment:
- Softener(5300) – 1.5%
Dyeing process for Turquoise dyestuff:
Procedure:
-
mins.
- To added Dyes by 30 mins. Run the bath20 mins.
- To added 1/3 salt by 10 mins. Run the bath 5 mins.
- To added 2/3salt by 15 mins and also run the bath 10mins.
- The temperature is then raised to 900C. Run the bath 15 mins. Cool down the bath temperature
at 600c by 10C/ mins.
- To added 1/5 soda by 25 mins and run the bath 5 mins then added to 4/5 soda by 30 mins
- Run the bath 5 mins. The temperature is then raised to 900C. Run the bath 30-60 mins matches
the shade percentage and drop the bath.
B/D Sample
30’ 20’ 10’ 5’ 15’ 10’
1.50C
/min
900C
15’
10C/
min
600C
25’ 5’ 30’
1/5
soda
4/5
soda
10’
600C Dyes Run 1/3
salt
Run 2/3
salt
Run
Levelling
5’
10C/
min
800C 30’-60’

63
Recipe:
Dye bath: Dyestuff: Rema yellow 3GL: 0.021%
- Levelling(Splus) – 0.4 g/l DRI TUR.CIB:0.16632%
- Ant creasing(ANTI) – 0.5 g/l
- Soda ash(SODA) – 10 g/l
Aftertrearment:
- Fixing agent(ECO) – 1.5%
- Softener(5300) – 1.5%
Pretreatment process for viscouse/viscose elastan Fabrics:
Procedure:
- To added Alp clean, Ant crease, Denkomsyt at 400C. The temperature is then raised to 600C. Run
the bath 45 mins. Cool down the bath temperature at 500c by 10C/ mins.
Normal hot wash:
- Dye bath running at 600C. Run the bath 10 mins. Cool down the bath temperature at 500c by 10C/
mins.
B/D Samle
400C
1.0g/
l
600C
45’
10C/
min
500C
Drain
600C
10’
10C/
min
500C
Drain
Denkomsyt
Alpclean3g/l+Anticrease
Normal hot wash

64
Ant peroxide wash:
Procedure:
- To added Acetic acid, H2O2 killer, to require PH-5.5. The temperature is then raised to 600C. Run the
bath 20 mins and to check the peroxide remaining.
- Cool down the bath temperature at 500c by 10C/ mins.
400C
PH5.5
500C
20’
10C/
min
500C
Drain
600C
10’ 10C/
min
500C
Drain
H2O2 killer
Normal hot wash
Check the peroxide remaining
Acetic acid

65
Dyeing process for viscouse Fabric:
Procedure:
- To add leveling, Ant creasing, Sequestering, at 400C. Run the bath 5 mins.
- To added Dyes by 30 mins. Run the bath10 mins.
- To added 1/10 salt by 10 mins and added to 2/10salt and also then added to 7/10 salt. Run the
bath 10 mins.
- The temperature is then raised to 600C. Run the bath 15 mins.
- To added 1/10 soda by 25 mins and run the bath 5 mins then added to 9/10 soda by 30 mins
30’ 10’ 10’ 10
’’’
10’ 10’
10C/
min
600C
15’
5’
25’
30’
1/10
soda
9/10
soda
5’
400C Dyes
Run
time
1/10
salt
2/10
salt
7/10
salt
Run
time
Levelling+Anticrease+sequestering
30’-60’
Run
time
Run
time

66
Dyeing process for White fabric:
Procedure:
- Fabric to be scoured is loaded in the machine
- Required amount of water is loaded
- Washing agent/ detergent other auxiliaries are added at 300C
- Steam pipes are on & scouring agents (i.e. Caustic soda/ Soda ash) added when the temperature
reaches at 500C
- When the temperature reaches at 600C then stabilizer is added
- When the temperature reaches at 700C then H2O2 is added
- To added OBA at 780C by 25 mins
- Temperature is then raised to 1100C and the process is then carried out for 60mins depending on
the requirements
- Cool down the bath temperature at 400c
- Then hot wash at 800C run the bath 30 mins . The liquors are then drained
- Take water in the bath at required level
- Add acetic acid, for control PH. ( PH- 4.5-5.0)
- Raise the temperature at 550C then to added Enzyme .run the dye bath at 60 mins .
300C
400-500C 600-700C
780C
1100C*60min
OBA
Drain
Auxiliaries
Caustic H2O2
Hot wash
800C
30 min
Drain
Acetic acid
PH4.5-5.0
550C
60 min
Drain
Enzyme

67
Recipe:
Demineralizing:
-Detergent(MD.4)- 0.1 g/l
-Detergent( MD.4) - 0.3 g/l
- Ant creasing( Anti) – 0.5 g/l
- Antifoaming ( TCT ) - 0.1 g/l
- Stabilizer (qtab IGE) – 0.6 g/l
- Oil remover( OSR) – 0.5 g/l
- Sequestering (IN.CS) – 1.0 g/l
- Caustic soda ( caustic) – 2.0 g/l
- Peroxide(H2O2) – 7.0 g/l
Neutral:
-Peroxide killer
Enzyme:
- Acetic acid (P.2900) – 0.4 g/l
- Enzyme(CONC) – 0.6 g/l
Dyestuff:
4BK:0.4 g/l
Aftertrearment:
- Softener (color) 5300:1.0%
- Softener(White) FPG – 0.5%
Washing for colored fabrics:
- The colored fabrics to be washed is loaded in the machine
- Required amount of water is taken
- PCLF (detergents) added & washing continued at 800C for 20 mins
- Cold washing
BD Sample

68
Re-dyeing:
When shade is not matched then fabric is treated again in dyeing machine for shade matching is known
as re-dyeing.
Generally, re-dyeing is done if the shade is deeper than the target shade. It may occur when the fabrics
absorb one or two colors more or less. One re-dyeing process is described below.
- Drain the let off solution
- Hot wash at 700-800C
- Acid wash at 600-700C(600 for light shade & 700 for deep shade).
- Soda ash washes at 900-1000C for 60mins to reduce the depth of shade.
- Acid wash at 600C.
- Addition to required dyestuffs.
- Salt addition.
- Soda ash addition.
Other operations are same as previous described dyeing operations
MACHINE DESCRIPTION
DYEING FLOOR
Dyeing Machines:
The APS Group There are 17dyeing machines. Among them 10 machines are in the 2nd floor and 7
machines are in the 1st floor. Among second floor, 2 SLAVOCH sample dyeing machines, 8 DILMENLER and
among them 1st dyeing floor 4 THIES, 2 Dilmenler and 1 AYTC production is dyeing machines. We worked
on the first floor. The description and specifications of the machine are given below-
Machine Type 01
Name of the machine : Sample Dyeing Machine
Brand Name : Fongs
Manufacturer : Fong’s National Engineering (SHENZHENE) Co. LTD.
Capacity : 25 Kg
Year of manufacturing: 2002
Hydraulics Test Pressure: 650
Winch motor – 1
Pump motor – 1

69
Stirring motor – None
Machine Type 02
Name of the machine: Winch Dyeing Machine
Brand Name : Thies (No. of machines: 4)
Manufacturer : Germany.
Capacity : 150,200,400,400, Kg
Maximum operating temp: 1400C
Maximum operating pressure: 3.5 bar
Machine Type 03
Name of the machine: H.T. Dyeing Machine
No. of machine : 10
Brand Name : DILMENLER
Manufacturer : Turkey
Capacity : 150,150,150,350,350,700,1050,1050,1500,1500 Kg.
Maximum operating temp : 1450C
Maximum operating pressure: 3 bar
No of nozzle : 1- 4
Machine Type 04
Name of the machine: ATYC Dyeing Machine
No. of machine : 01
Brand Name : ATYC
Manufacturer : TERRASSA
Capacity : 900 Kg
Maximum operating temp – 1350C
Maximum operating pressure – 3.5 bar (6 bar max.)

70
Operation process:
a. Preparation:
1.Turn on power on main panel
2.Open valve for cooling water of main pump
3.Check stream, water & air
+ Steam pressure: 5 – 6 kg/cm2 G
+ Water pressure: 1.2 – 2 kg/cm2 G
+ Air pressure : 5 – 7 kg/cm2 G
1. Adjustment of feeding valve as per production item & capacity
b. Putting fabric into the machine:
1. Select water supply level
2. Supply water automatically by pushing ‘turn on’ button and stop by ‘turn off’ button.
3. Take up edge of fabric to fabric gate through guide of the reel
4. Put edge of fabric to nozzle
5. Start main pump and put whole fabric with adjusting feeding by valve up to remaining 2 -3
meters fabric end
6. Stop main pump and pull up 2 -3 meters of fabric edge by stick
7. Joint both ends of fabric
8. Start main pump & reel to circulate whole fabric and adjust torque of speed
9. Make sure if fabric circulation is normal, then close the door of the gate, (Check again reel speed)
c. Operation:
1. Close the door
2. In-put the pattern on programme controller
3. Mix dyeing stuff & chemical in dyeing-mixing tank and pour it with using pouring pump by
adjusting feeding valve, after poring, feeding valve shall be closed
4. Switch ‘run’ on programme setting device
5. Automatic operation
1) Select the switch of water supply to ‘automatic’ on main panel
2) Push the button of automatic operation, and then automatically operation will go
through heating, holding, cooling, washing as per programming. Put ‘stop’ button when
finishing buzzer will ring
3) Open the door and take out fabric

71
Caution:
1.Before operation:
(1) Check the power (Voltage/hz) wrong Voltage / Hz will cause to brake motor, meter etc
(2) Check air pressure
(3) Clean inside of tube before dyeing
(4) Set the meter correctly as per dyeing method
(5) Check every valves
2.Starting operation:
(6) Check closing the door perfectly
(7) Set pressure below 1 kg / cm3 by watching pressure meter
(8) Do not start pump when tube is empty
(9) Put definitely cooling water before starting operation because pump & reel is made for
cool water
2. During operation
(1) Check if meter is working correctly during operation
(2) Check if any strange vibration
(3) Check if any strange sound of pumping
(4) Check if pressure in the tube is too high
(5) Check if temperature in the tube meet programming
(6) Start pump when feeding steam & cooling water
(7) Check if reel is working correct under high temperature & high pressure
3. Nozzle installation
Set nozzle base into nozzle-casing and install nozzle by turning it clock wise.
After install nozzle, turn it one round by anti-clock wise to make 2 mm gap. The gap on nozzle shall be
adjusted by kind of fabric
4. After operation:
(1) Before opening the door, check if air pressure of inside the tube is 0 kg/cm2 and
temperature of inside the tube is between 800-900C if the pressure is still remained or
temperature is more than 800C, it is very dangerous to open the door
(2) Temperature inside the tube shall be under 800C for manual draining
(3) Turn off the power after operation and close the valve

72
5. Maintenance:
(1) Keep cleaning seal packing of the door and surface to touch the packing to be prevented
from dust and hurting
(2) Keep electric portion, pump and control panel not to be wet by water
(3) Keep tight valve shaft seal ground packing of each valve by tightening sometime
(4) Check valve seat part of air valve & drain valve sometime
(5) Keep tight each volt
(6) Make often oiling rotating part
(7) Inspect mechanical seal according to manual of pump
Some machines and parts Pictures:

73
LIST OF THE MACHINERY:
M/C
NO
M/C TYPE BRAND
NAME
ORIGIN OF
MACHINE
MANUFACT-URING
YEAR
CAPACITY
Kg
No. of
Nozzle
Max. Temp
01 WINCH THIES GERMANY 2000 150 01 1200C
05 H.T. D.M ATYC TERRASSA 2002 900 04 1350C
06 H.T. D.M DILMENLER TURKY 2003 150 01 1350C

74
16 SAMPLE FONG SHENZHEN 2002 25 01 1400C
17 SAMPLE FONG SHENZHEN 2002 25 01 1400C

75
Dyeing Machine Setup
SL MACHINE NAME BRAND TYPE
COUNTRY
UNIT REMARKS
OF ORIGIN
1
DMS-11 HT Jumbo Jet Flow Full
Dilmenler
High Temperature &
Turkey 1
Auto 15KG High Pressure
2
Dilmenler
High Temperature &
Turkey 1
3
Dilmenler
High Temperature &
Turkey 1
4
Dilmenler
High Temperature &
Turkey 1
Auto 450KG ATM High Pressure
5
Dilmenler
High Temperature &
Turkey 1
Auto 900KG ATM High Pressure
6
Dilmenler
High Temperature &
Turkey 1
7 Tong Geng A/T 1200kg Tong Geng
Atmospheric Temp. &
Taiwan 1
Pressure
8 HT Soft Flow Capicity:25Kg J & X
High Temperature &
China 1
High Pressure
High Temperature &
China 1
High Pressure
High Temperature &
China 1
High Pressure
11 HT, Fabric Dyeing- 750 KG
Sclavos High Temperature &
Greece 1
Athena-2 High Pressure
12 HT, Fabric Dyeing- 1000 KG
Sclavos High Temperature &
Greece 1
Athena-2 High Pressure
Remarks:
The APS Group strictly follows the production parameters like the time, temperature, M: L ratio pH etc.
As they do some difficult shade, it takes more time for the production of the batch. Because of the trolley
shortage and generator failure, the production process is sometime hampered. Considering these
limitations, the production officer and the Sr. Production Officer try their best to reduce the production
time.

76
Chapter: 7
Water Treatment Plant
“WTP”

77
Fig: Water Treatment Plant

78

79
Chapter: 8
“Finishing Section”

80
Finishing:
The making of a marketable and consumer usable textile is not completed after fabric production
dyeing or printing operation. Fabrics usually still need to undergo an additional processing known as
finishing, which is the final processing before the fabric is cut into apparel or made into any articles of
textiles. Finishing is what improves attractiveness and makes fabrics suitable for their in tended end use.
Process flow Chart for Finishing Section:
Finishing
Open Finish Tube Finish
Slitting and Dewatering Squeezing
Daciling Drying
Stentering Compacting
Inspection Inspection
Delivery Delivery

81
Finishing Machine Setup
SL MACHINE
BRAND TYPE
COUNTRY
UNIT REMARKS
No. NAME OF ORIGIN
7 Chamber with Setex 848PLC
Turkey with
Control, Dogul 4 Positive Feeding,
7 Chamber with the
capacity
All German,
1 Stenter Dilmenler Bianco Digitex 6 Weft Straighter, 1
of 7000kg finished fabric
&
Italian & US
Phennenburg Colling System for 3000kg Heat Set.
Parts
Control Unit, Maxon Burner ETC
Bianco Head, Detwister, Basket, Conveyer
With the Capacity of 90
Meter
2 Tension Less Bianco Italy 1 /Min that is more or less
Belt & Double Padder
Slitting 24000kg of 180gsm 30" dia
Head, Detwister, Basket from With the Capacity of 90
3 DMS Slitting Dilmenler Turkey 1
Meter/Min that is more or
less
Bianco, Padder from Rollin
24000kg of 180gsm 30"dia
4
Stitching Tuana Edege Sewing from Cutter, Italy Turkey with
1 42Meter/Min
Machine Makina with D-Threading Italian Parts
5 Dryer Dilmenler
2Chamber 2Pass Relaxed Dryer for
Turkey 1
400lt/hr evaporation
capacity
Open width Fabric that is 8000kg/Day
Open width Compactor Ferraro
Open Width Revolution 3000, with 9.6Meter Pin
6 Ferraro Frame, Low Rise Positive Feeding, Italy 1 10000 kg
Compactor
Steamer through 2 steam box,
Compaction Zone & Polishing Device.
Machine Description for Finishing Section:
Dewatering machine:
Feature:
 Used to remove excess water after pretreatment and dyeing
 Delivered fabric is crease free state
 Before squeezing ballon is formed with the help of compressed air passing by a nozzle
 It can control the diameter of fabric and GSM and shrinkage by over feeding mechanism
 To impart soft finish to the fabric
Brand name Origin Prod.Capacity
AB-CALATOR Sweeden 7 ton/day
FAB-CON American 8 ton/day
Main parts of the machine:
- Sqeeze roller (to remove water)

82
- Stretcher (to control width)
- Over feeding wheels (to control GSM)
- De-twisting device (To delivery the fabric roll in untwisted form)
- Folding device (to delivery the fabric in folded form)
Slitting machine:
Brand name Origin Year of mfg Prod. Capacity
Max speed
Linza-Taglierina Italy 2004 9ton/day 90 m/min
Features of the Machine:
• Used to remove excess water after pretreatment and dyeing
• To slit the tube fabric by the knife for opening of the fabric and ready for stentering
• Delivered fabric is crease free state.
• Before squeezing balloon is formed with the help of compressed air passing by a nozzle or air
sprayer.
• It can control the diameter of fabric and GSM and shrinkage by over feeding mechanism.
• To impart soft finish to the fabric by using required softener.
Find out the limitations and faults of the machine and advise for removing these.
i) Workers do not record the pressure, in diameter and out diameter of different fabric in record
book.
ii) Workers set the pressure of squeeze roller for different fabrics same. But higher GSM fabric
needs more pressure than lower GSM fabric. So removal of excess water is not sufficient.
Dryer:
M/C no Origin
RUCKH Germany
SAN-TEX Switzerland
Functions:
1. To dry the fabric with help of steam
2. To control the shrinkage

83
3. To prepare for next subsequent process
4. To dry tubular and open width fabric without tension
1. Heating chamber (2)
2. Blower (8)
3. Synthetic blanket as a conveyor
4. Folder
5. Exhaust fan
Heating system:
1. Gas fired
Utility:
1. Gas (to make fire)
2. Electricity (to rum the machine)
3. Compressed air (to spread the fire)
Setting according to fabric construction:
Fabric type Speed m/min Temperature Over feed speed (%)
Single jersey 15 140 20
Interlock 20 – 22 140 25 – 30
Rib 10 140 15 – 20
T/C P/C Viscose 20 – 23 130 40 – 45
Lacoste 30 140 40 – 45
Collar 20 140 40 – 45
Lycra 17 130
M/C Origin Year of mfg Brand Name No of Dryer
Lafer Taiwan 2003 KS/S 02
- To dry the fabric.
- To control the overfeed system.
- To control the vibration which increase the G.S.M.

84
The temp. Of different chambers according to the shade of the fabric –
Shade Chamber-1 Chamber-2
Light 1200c 1300c
Medium 1350c 1400c
Deep 1500c 1700c
Compactor m/c:
Brand Name Manufacturing Country Year of mfg Production / day
FERRARO Italy 2001 3 - 6 tons/day
FAB-CON America 2001 3 – 6 tons / day
Control Point :
- Water pressure 2.5 lb
- Air pressure4 lb
- Steam pressure 6 lb
Function:
1. To compact the fabric
2. To control the shrinkage
3. To maintain proper width and G.S.M
1. Heating chamber
2. Blower (8)
3. Synthetic blanket as a conveyor,
4. Folder
5. Exhaust fan

85
Heating system: Steam
Raising m/c:
In which process a layer of fibers lifting from the body of the fabric to achieve soft and lofty effect on the
surface is called raising.
Brand name Country Production / day
XETMA Germany 2-3 tons
Main parts:
1. Pin roller
2. Counter pole roller
3. Blower
4. Clean roller
Strentering M/C:
Brand name Country No of
Chamber
Noof Burner Production / day
Bruckner Germany 6 12 7-8 tons
Important parts:
- Burner (12) - Suction Fan (12)
- Exhaust air fan (6)
- Over feed roller. - Chain arrangement
Function:
- Drying

86
- Shrinkage control
- Heat setting
- Width control
- Finishing chemical application.
- Loop control
- Moisture control, etc.
Parameters Used For Different Constructed Fabric :
For POLYESTER Fabric:
Fabric Type
Overfeed %
Temperature0C
Speed
(m/min)
Stretch (%)
Inch
Light
Color
Deep
Color
Single Jersey
5 % to 10%
1750C
1550C
14~15
Depend on
fabric G.S.M
Single Lacoste
45 % to 50%
1750C
1600C
14~15
Depend on
fabric G.S.M
Polo Pique
45 % to 50%
1700C
1600C
18~20
Depend on
fabric G.S.M

87
For COTTON Fabric:
Fabric Type
Overfeed %
Temperature0C
Speed (m/min)
Stretch (%) Inch
Light
Color
Deep
Color
Single Jersey
60 % to 75%
1650C
1600C
15~17
3~4
Single Lacoste
60 % to 70%
1650C
1600C
14~15
2.5~3.5
Polo Pique
60% to 65%
1650C
1600C
14~15
2~3
Interlock
60 % to 70%
1700C
1550C
12~14
2
Rib
60 % to 70%
1650C
1500C
12~14
2
N.B: All this data’s are suitable for this machine only. All this parameters are suitable for. Grey G.S.M
range 140~160 to get Finished G.S.M 170~185 without Lycra Fabric
N.B:  If fabric is less Redder than the standard one, then increase the temperature, reduce steam.

88
 If fabric is less Yellower than the standard one, then increase the temperature, without steam.
 If fabric is less Bluer than the standard one, then reduce the temperature, increase steam.
N.B: Polyester rib fabric is finished in tube form. All this data’s are practiced in mills which may vary with
the change of fabric type. The quality assurance department is assigned to maintain consistently uniform
quality of the material; in process and various stages of its manufacturing.
Common dyeing faults with their remedies
Running Shade:
1. Causes:
- Miter to miter shade variation
- Main reason for fabric cycle time
Remedies:
- By ensuring Proper cycle time depend on fabric type
2. over dry:
Causes:
- Using high temperature then burn on Fabric
Remedies:
- By ensure proper temperature depend on Fabric type
3. Uneven dyeing:
Causes:
- Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring & bleaching).
- Improper color dosing.
- Using dyes of high fixation property.
- Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.
- Lack of control on dyeing m/c
Remedies:
- By ensuring even pretreatment.

89
- By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.
- Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals.
- Proper controlling of dyeing m/c
4. Batch to Batch Shade variation:
Causes:
- Fluctuation of Temperature.
- Improper dosing time of dyes & chemicals.
- Batch to batch weight variation of dyes and chemicals.
- Dyes lot variation.
- Improper reel speed, pump speed, liquor ratio.
- Improper pretreatment.
Remedies:
- Use standard dyes and chemicals.
- Maintain the same liquor ratio.
- Follow the standard pretreatment procedure.
- Maintain the same dyeing cycle.
- Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of the Shade.
- Make sure that the operators add the right bulk chemicals at the same time and temperature
in the process.
- The pH, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water should check daily.
5. Roll to roll variation or Meter to Meter variation:
Causes:
- Poor migration property of dyes.
- Improper dyes solubility.

90
- Hardness of water.
- Faulty m/c speed, etc
Remedies:
- Use standard dyes and chemicals.
- Proper m/c speed.
- Use of soft water
6. Crease mark:
Causes:
- Poor opening of the fabric rope
- Shock cooling of synthetic material
- If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal
- Due to high speed m/c running
Remedies:
- maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.
- Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
- Reducing the m/c load
7. Dye spot:
Causes:
- Improper Dissolving of dye particle in bath.
- Improper Dissolving of caustic soda particle in bath.
Remedies:
- By proper dissolving of dyes & chemicals
- By passing the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh strainer, so that the large
un-dissolved particles are removed
8. Wrinkle mark:
Causes:
- Poor opening of the fabric rope

91
- Shock cooling of synthetic material
- High temperature entanglement of the fabric
Remedies:
- Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.
- Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
- Higher liquor ratio
9. Softener Mark:
Causes:
- Improper mixing of the Softener.
- Improper running time of the fabric during application of softener.
- Entanglement of the fabric during application of softener
Remedies:
- Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.
- Proper Mixing of the softener before addition.

92

93
Fig: Compactor M/C
Fig: Slitting M/C

94
Fig: Stenter M/C
Remarks:
The average machineries in this factory are more or less same compared to the other knit dyeing
factories but the dyeing machineries are very much different from the other factories. De twisting
process is not well for slitting m/c because magnet is not work. To handle by hand switch.

95
Chapter: 9
“Quality Control”

96
Lab
Pilot plant Q.c side
Offline Online
Pilot plant :-
Laboratory matching is a color development process of a given shade of the specified material by
formulating a recipe from selected dyes, though the aid of color computer recipe. Combinations using the
appropriate dyeing process with available sample dyeing machine until the closed matched is achieved.
Dyeing process :
Fabrics are dyed based of their quality and blending and to the buyers standard sample appearance. The
dyeing process used in BKL are:-
1. Reactive dyeing:
Cotton part eyeing at temperature range of (60o-90o)c in alkali medium (in accordance to existing
dyes)
2. Disperse dyeing :
Polyester part dyeing at 132oc in acid medium. There are different process for blended fabrics
such as pc or CVC.
a) Two bath process:-
This is a process where at first the polyester part is dyed, matched and reduction clearing (if
needed) is done, and then proceed to cotton part dyeing using different bath.
b) One bath process:-
Putting the disperse and reactive dyes together and other chemical in one bath but dyeing the
polyester part first the proceed with cotton dyeing. In this process selected dyes which are compatible
with each other are used. Disperse & Reactive are suitable for the process.

97
Process Requirement :-
Equipment used :
1. Ahiba Nuance Top speed.
2. Ahiba Spectra dye
3. AG Machine
Key accessories :-
 Data color computer
 Lab, receive file
 Electronic platform Blench
 Electronic platform
 Plastic/Glass beakers
 Steel stirrer
 Scissors
 Stainless reference & dyeing beakers
 Dryer
 Vervide light box
 Electric Heater
Chemicals & Auxiliaries Used :
Chemicals are main ingredients used with dyes and auxiliaries means the aids or helper to get better
results like levelness, absorption, crease free and other quality parameters, but water is the important
ingredient need in all dyeing.
For Reactive Dyeing:
Chemical chart
SOAZOL/REACTOBOND
Dyes % upto
0.25%
0.26-0.75 0.76-1.5 1.6-2.5 2.6-3.5 3.6-5.0 L5.0
Salt g/L
Soda g/L
Castic g/L
10
3
-
20
5
-
30
7.5
-
40
10
50
5
0.3
60
5
0.7
80
5
0.7

98
LEVAFIX/ SYNOZOL
Dyes % upto
0.25%
0.26-0.5 0.51-1.0 1.1-2.0 2.1-3.0 3.1-4.0 4.6-60
Salt g/L
Soda g/L
Castic g/L
10
2
-
10
5
-
20
5
-
30
7.5
-
40
10
-
50
10
-
60
10
-
SOLACION/ PROCION (HOT BRAND)
Dyes % upto
0.25%
0.26-1.0 1.1-2.0 2.1-3.0 3.1-3.5 3.6-5.0 L5.0
Salt g/L
Soda g/L
Castic g/L
20
5
-
30
7.5
-
40
10
-
50
10
-
60
12
-
70
15
-
90
20
-
Note: For sensitive shade & R R combination try to avoid caustic in that case increase soda
For Disperse Dyeing:
Chemical and auxiliaries in disperse dyeing in all brands are similar and dyeing temperature mostly is
132oc
1.Dispersing agent – PALAGAL SFD – 0.5g/L
JINLEV RLF 349 – 0.3 g/L
2.PH adjusted – Elusins – 0.23 gm/L (Buffer solution)
3. PH required and to be maintained = 4.5 – 5.0
For medium & dark shades reduction clearing is required after dyeing
Sl. No Chemicals Medium shade Dark shad
01
02
03
Detergent
Caustic soda
sodium hydrose
0.5 g/L
1.0 g/L
2.0 g/L
0.5 g/L
2.0 g/L
4.0 g/L

99
04 Acetic Acid
(For neutralization)
0.5 g/L 0.5 g/L
Laboratory dyeing procedure: Reactive dyeing for cotton part
Diagram: For Reactive dyeing (Cold brand)
60oc 30’ 60 min
RI B
Unload & wash
2min
A= 1) Fabric
2) Dye
3) Chemical
4) Salt
B= Soda ash
1) Add required amount of dyes, Chemical, water and salt in the dyeing beaker
2) Add the fabric in the dyeing beaker.
3) Place the dyeing pot into the dyeing machine at room temperature & circulate the dyeing beaker.
4) Raise the temp of the dyeing machine at 60oc and run the machine for 30 min
5) Then add soda ash in the dyeing pot and run the machine for 60 min.
6) Unload & wash.

100
Diagram for Reactive dyeing (HOT BRAND)
820c 40min
60oc
2 min
B Unload&wash
A A= 1) Fabric
2) Dye
3) Chemical
4) Salt
B= Soda ash
1) Add required amount of dyes, chemical, water & salt in the dyeing beakers.
2) Add fabric to the dyeing beaker.
3) Place the dyeing beaker into the dyeing machine at room temperature.
4) Circulate the dyeing beaker in the dyeing machine and raise temp at 60oc and run the machine
for 30 min.
5) Then add soda ash in the dyeing beaker raise the temp at 82oc and run the machine for 40 min
6) Decrease the temp & unload.
Product quality check:
New dyes and chemical are bested for quality by physical apprence and application evaluation such as:-
1. Dye self shade comparison with other brands.
2. Dyes behavior with other dye combination & chemicals.
3. Saturation point.
4. Fastness properties.

101
On Line Quality Control
On line Knit quality is the process of evaluating the greige, finishing and checking the knit circular & flat
machine parameter, in order to ensure conformity with the fabric specifications required by the
customer.
Working Area of On Line Quality Control:
a) On line circular knit:
Function:
1. Design & shade approval.
2. Yarn & m/c evaluation.
3. QC parameter checking.
4. Body& Rib Inspection.
b) On line flat knit:
Function:
1. Design & shade approval.
2. Yarn & m/c evaluation.
3. QC parameter checking.
4. Collar & cuff. Inspection.
c) Greige inspection:
Function:
1. 100% Fabric Inspection.
2. Fabric transfer to store.
3. Area cleaning.
4. Co-ordination & reporting.
d) On line finishing:
Function:
1. 100% Fabric Inspection.
2. Problem Identification.
3. Problem Rectification.
4. Fabric Transfer for reprocesses.

102
Response to faults:
Following response is to be taken:
Faults Response
Greige inspection Inform yarn supplier & knitting department.
Knitting fault Inform knitting Department
Finishing fault Inform Finishing Department
Off Line Quality Control
All quality control tests relate to Finished fabric (body, collar/cuff & rib) testing as per customer’s
required quality standard or international standard.
Typical Quality control in BKL:
a) Shade Check.
b) Gram per square meter (GSM) test
c) Width on dia check.
d) Shrinkage test
e) Spirility test
f) Crocking/Rubbing Fastness test.
g) Pilling resistance test.
h) Wash fastness test.
i) Water fastness.
j) Color fastness to perspiration.
a) Shade check:
Shade check after dyeing & finishing of fabric is done according to customers
recommended light source.
Equipment used: Verivide Light box.
Manufacturer: James H. Heal & Company, Halifax, England.
Light sources:
 Artificial day light D65
 TL 84
 F(Filament)
 UV (Ultra violet) light etc.
b) Gram per square Meter:
After finishing fabric weight of gram per square meter is check by GSM
cutter + electric Balance.
Equipment used: GSM cutter + Balance.

103
Manufacturer: James H. Heal & Company, Halifax, England
c) Width on Dia Check: After finishing of fabric width on dia of the fabric is check by measuring tape.
d) Shrinkage test: After finishing of fabric shrinkage is tested.
Equipment used: Electrolux wascato
Manufacturer: James H. Heal & Co. Ltd. Halifax, England.
Procedure:
1) Two layers of 50cmx50cm sample is cut.
2) Then stitch the layers.
3) Then wash the sample by (as per customer requirement)-
Test Methods
BS 26330 3A 60 +/- 3ºc Prog – 13
BS 26330 4A 50 +/- 3ºc Prog – 14
BS 26330 5A 40 +/- 3ºc Prog – 15
4) Then dryed the sample according to customer requirements:
 Tumble drying
 Line drying or Flat Dry
5) Then measured the dryed sample.
Standard shrinkage %:
Length (max): 5% after domestic washing.
Width (max): 5% after domestic washing.
e) Spirility test: After finishing of fabric spirility is tested.
Equipment used: Electrolux wascator.
Procedure:
1. Two layer of 21” & 21” sample is cut.
2. Then stich layers.
3. Then wash the a smple by:
Test Methods
BS 26330 3A 60 +/- 3ºc Prog – 13
BS 26330 4A 50 +/- 3ºc Prog – 14
BS 26330 5A 40 +/- 3ºc Prog – 15
4. Then dried sample according to customer requirements:
a) Tumble drying
b) Line drying.
Standard spirility %:
Maximum: 5% after domestic washing.
f) Rubbing / Crocking fastness: After finishing of fabric rubbing fastness is measured.
Equipment used: Crock meter.

104
Method: AATCC 8 / ISO 105 – X 12
Standard result:
Dry rub: 4s
Wet rub: 3s (For very dark shade)
a) Pilling resistance test: After finishing fabric pilling resistance test is carried out (If required by
customer).
Equipment used: ICI pilling box.
Method: BS 5811 or according to customer requirement.
Revolutions for BS 5811 method:
a) 7000 cycle for low pilling
b) 9000 cycle for medium pilling
c) 11000 cycle for High pilling.

105
Chapter: 10
“Description of ETP”

106
Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP):
The effluent generated from different sections of a textile industry must be treated before they are
discharged to the environment. Various chemicals and physical means are introduced for this
purpose.
Capacity : 100m3/ hr
Cost : Tk. 1.175 / Kg
Flow chart for ETP:
Waste water
↓
Mechanical barge crain
↓
Collection tank / equalization tank
↓
Pumping water
↓
Clarifier settles off
↓
Bio-tower tank
↓
Pumping
↓
Airation tank
↓
Lamallah (Secondary Clarifier)
↓
Dispose to environment
Product Quality Checked:
o Biological Oxygen Demand (BOD)
pH Check

107
o Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD)
o Total suspended solids
o Total dissolved solids
o Color
o pH etc.
Chemicals Used in ETP:
o Ferrous-Sulphate-(FeSO4-7H2O)
o Hydrochloric-Acid (HCL)
o Lime
o Polymer
o Sodium-Hypo-Chloride (NaOCl)
o Urea-Fertilizer

108
Chapter-11
Garments

109
Design/Sketch
Basic block
Working pattern
Sample making
Approved Sample
Costing
Production Pattern
Grading
Marker Making
Fabric Spreading
Cutting
Sorting & Bundling
Inspection
Sewing & Assembling
Inspection
Pressing & Finishing
Final Inspection
Packing
Putting in Carton
Final Inspection
Shipment
Sequence of Garments Operation:

110
B.L= Body Length, S .L= Sleeve Length, S. A= Sewing Allowance,
B.L, S L ,Chest length all measurement are in CM
=(B L+S L+S A )×(
Chest + S A)×2×GSM×12
10,000×1000
=Kg
Flat Lock 2Needles=1”×17”= 17 inch yarn
Flat Lock 3 Needles=1” × 35”= 35inch yarn
Over lock 2 Needle= 1” ×14”= 14 inch yarn
Plain Lock = 1”× 5” = 5 inch (Neck,Top,Coller)
SNLS(Single needle lock stitch)=1’’ thae=3” yarn thake
F/L=1”=8” yarn thake
o/L=1”=21.5” yarn thake
Fabric Consumption/Dozen:
Sewing Thread Consumption:

111
I.E :
Costing & Production
Lean:
Wastage minimize & Production maximum.
Sewing section Organogram:
Production Manager (Sewing
floor & All dept.)
Asst. Production Manager
Quality Controller Manager(Byer
Deal,knitting& Dyeing)
Quality Incharge (Total quality
Control)
Quality Asst Manager (All
quality,Production,Knitting)
Quality Inspector(Line Wise
quality)
Sewing Operator
Supervisor (Line
production Control)
Floor in Charge(Floor
Production)
Helper

112
Machines needed to make Basic T-Shirts :
Three types of machines are generally used for making Basic Tee (Crew Neck) in mass production.
Machines are Lock stitch (Single Needle), overedge (Over lock) and flatlock (Flat bed or Cylinder bed).
In the following table a machine requirement plan or layout has been shown for production of 800
Tee shirts in 8 hours shift. Machine types and machine requirement in each operation has been also
given in the following table.
Sewing Defects:
 Needle damage,
 Skip stitches,
 Thread Breakages,
 Broken Stitches
 Seam Grin
 Seam Puckering
 Pleated Seam
 Wrong stitch density
 Uneven stitch density
 Staggered stitch
 Improperly formed stitches
Consumption (Kg/ Doz) Formula for Knit T Shirt=
(BL+SL+SA:01) × (
C+S.A:02) × GSM × 2 × 12 + Wastage %
Figure : Basic T shirt
Seq. No. Operations M/c Type No. Of
Machines
1 Shoulder join Over Lock 1
2 Neck rib Tuck 1N Lock Stitch 1
3 Neck Join Over Lock 2
4 Label Make 1N Lock Stitch 1
5 Back Neck
Binding
Flat lock/1NLS 1
6 Front Neck Top Flat lock 1
7 Back Neck Top 1N Lock Stitch 2
8 Sleeve Hem Flat lock 1
9 Sleeve Join Over Lock 2
10 Side Seam Flat lock 2
11 Sleeve tuck 1N Lock Stitch 1
12 Body Hem Flat lock 1
Total: 16

113
100 100 1000
BL (Length) = HPS (High Point Shoulder)
= CBL (Central Back length)
= BL (Body Length)
SL = Sleeve Length
Allowance 01: This is actually sewing allowance in length wise of a garment.
For Knit T-Shirt, Bottom Hem = 2.5-3 cm
Shoulder Join = 1.5 cm
Sleeve Hem = 2.5- 3 cm
Sleeve Join = 1.5 cm
Sub Total = 9 cm
In Hand = 1 cm
Grand Total =10 cm
Per Cut and Sewn allowance = 3 cm
Note: Pocket, Half moon, double layer bottom hem, and double layer sleeve s/b calculated on
lengthwise.
2. Chest Allowance: This is sewing allowance in width wise of garment
a. Side Seam = ½ Chest + 3cm
b. Tube Seam= ½ Chest + 0 cm
c. Per cut and sewn allowance= 3 cm
2. Consumption (Kg/ Doz)= Length in Meter X Width In Meter X GSM in Kg X
2 X 12 + Wastage Percentage
3. Neck Rib # 1x1/1x1 elastane rib circular
Neck Rib Consumption:
Height (Length) = Rib height or rib width or rib depth
Total Height= Rib Height X 2 + Allowance
Width = Neck opening or neck width x 2 + 2 cm (Round)
= Neck opening or neck width x 2 + 5 cm (V-shape)

114
Mathematical Calculation:
C
A
B
A=Body Length= 70 cm
B=Sleeve length=25 cm
½ C=1/2 Chest =55 cm
A= Body length 1=15 cm
B=Body Length 2= 15 cm
C= Body Length 3=40 cm
D= ½ Chest =55 cm
A1= Sleeve length1=10 cm
B1= Sleeve Length2=5 cm
C1=Sleeve length3=10 cm
A1
A
C1
B1
19 cm
2 cm
B
D
C
Picture 01
Measurements
Picture 02 Measurements

115
Chapter-12
“Maintenance”

116
Maintenance:
Maintenance is a process by which equipment is looked after in such a way that trouble free.
Services and increased machine life can be ensured and specific product quality required required
by the customers is sustained.
Types of maintenance:
Preventive Maintenance
Preventive Maintenance :
Preventive Maintenance is a predetermined routine activity to ensure on time inspection /
checking of facilities to uncover conditions that may lead to production break downs or harmful
depreciation.
Corrective Maintenance / Break down Maintenance:
In this case, repairs are made after the equipment is out of order it can not perform its normal
function.
PM Tasks list:
Maintenance : Mechanical
Machine : Thies Dyeing Machine
Sl
No.
Item need to be checked & serviced
1. Crease the winch bearing (Grease Staburag NBU-12)
2. Complere cleaning of machine
3. Cleaning of drain valves, replace seals if required
4. Check air supply filters, regulators, and auto drain seals
5. Clean filters element and blow out
6. Greasing of Unloading Roller Bearings by BP Energrease LS-2
7. Checking of Oil line and bolts of Unloading Roller Gearbox.
8. Checking of unloading roller coupling and packing
9. Checking and cleaning (if required) of Main Vessel Level Indicator
Corrective Maintenance
Mechanical
Maintenance
Electrical
Maintenance
Mechanical
Maintenance
Electrical
Maintenance
Maintenance

117
10. Check the oil lecel of pump bearing and refill if required by BP Energol THB-100
11. Check the function of heat and cool modulating valves
12. Check all belts and belt tension
13. Check all door seals
Maintenance :Electrical
Machine : Thies Dyeing m/c
Sl
No.
Item need to be checked & serviced
1. Check & clean fluff and dirt at all motor fan covers
2. Check all motor’s terminals
3. Check main panel (by using compressed air)
4. Check panel cooling fan & clean it filter
5. Check main pump inverter and its cooling fan
6. Check all on/off switches
7. Check current setting of all circuit breaker & motor over loads.
8. Visual checking of all power & control cables
9. Check all emergency Switches
10. Check DC drive of neel motors
11. Check all pressure switches
12. Check calibration of main vessel & all additional tank
13. Check all pneumatic solenoids
14. Check calibration of heating/cooling. Modulation value.
15. Check all indicating lamps
Remarks:
Maintenance of m/c’s are very essential to prolong the m/c life and good
maintenance is important for economical consideration.
In this industry maintenance program is done by expert maintenance team.
So very few times production are stopped due to m/c problem.

118
Chapter-13
Store
&
Inventory control

119
Store & inventory control:
Frequency of inventory control:
- Monthly inventory control
- Annual inventory control
Scope of inventory control :
- Raw materials
 Dyes store
 Others chemicals store
 Grey fabrics
- Finishing fabric
- spare parts
- General store
Capital equipment
Accessories
Stationary
Maintenance parts.
Inventory system for raw materials:
- Raw materials partially received from production planning & directly from head office.
- Material Receiving & Inspection Report (MRIR) is prepared. Received quantity is mentioned &
noted down.
- Submitted to QC department. Some are OK & few rejected.
- Entry of data of goods in DATATEX.
- Goods are arranged according to OK or rejected group.
- Department gives store requisition to warehouse.
- As per requisition materials supplied & this record is noted down.
Stages of grey fabric inventory control.
- After knitting production
- Grey inspection
- Warehouse
- Batch preparation
- Dye house.

120
Stages of finished fabric inventory control
- Finishing section
- After final inspection
- Warehouse.
Remark
- The inventory system of BKL covers both knitting & dyeing inventories.
- The space is noticed to be insufficient considerably.
- An expansion of space is thus desired for sound inventory.

121
Chapter-14
Social
&
Environmental information

122
EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT :
Rapid growth in the industrial sector is playing a vital role in the economy of Bangladesh.mainly the
growth has been concentrated I garment which arte export oriented industries. To support garments a
large number of other textile industries have been estabilished and more are growing to be set up
shortly.These rapid growth of textile industries creat environmental pollution,mainly pollution in water
bodies. The reason of water pollution is lake of appropriate environmental management options in
textiles.among various options most popular and effective option is estabilishment of perfect waste
water treatment plant which is conventionally known as effluent treatment plant and appropriate
treatment of waste water regularly.though Bangladesh government introduced law to run treatment
plants but at present a few treatment plants are running smoothly in some of factories.so the scenario of
pollution contributed by textiles yet to improve due to discharging of waste wter to water bodies causing
detrimentral effects to aquatic lives &people who are directly in contact with plluted water.
*the of water pollution contributed by textiles is wet processing steps.it includes
sizing,desizing,scouring,bleacing,mercering,dyeing printing and finishing.
*it is estimated that (12-15)L of water is required for processing one meter of cloth.
*in 1943 it was estimated that from 502 textile industries 40000 m3/day waste water was discharged in
bagladesh which created 26000kg/day BOD load.
*individual small scales dyres discharge 8m3/day waste water and the corresponding value for large scale
dyres is 70-700m3/day.
Standard for textile effluent according to the national effelent quality standards guided by
doe(department of environment)of Bangladesh.
parameters Limits
TSS 100mg/l
BOD5(20C) 150mg/l
OIL&GREASE 10mg/l
Toyal soluble solids 2100mg/l
Waste water flow 100l/kgof fabric processing
Ph 6.9-9mg/l
Total cromium 2mg/l

123
Sulfide 2mg/l
phenol 5mh/l
There are different types of treatment plants:
1Physiochemical
2Biological
3Physiocochmical followed by biological.
Polution control by ETP in APS Group:
APS Group follow –physiocochemical followed by biological treatment plants.
This methods includes ;
Primary
Secondary
Tertiary methods.
*primary treatments includes removal of a portion of the suspended solid from the waste water.
*secondary treatment means the removal of t6he bio degradable organic maters and suspended solids in
presence of nutrients,
*Tertiary treatment residual suspended solides are removed which remain after biological treatment.
Procedure:
1Screening unit:
Fristly liquid waste is passed through thr sreenig unit to separate the coarser particle.
2 Equalisation unit;
In this unit hot liquid waste is kept to cool.
3 Primary clarifier:

124
In this unit liquid waste is treated with lime, ferrous sulfhate or alum and polyelectroyte .so that sludge
is separted through through coagulation and flocculation. Sludge is passed to Sludge processing unit. pH
can be controlled by adding concentrated hydrochoric acid in between coagulation processes.
4 Aeration unit :
After sludge separation in primary clarifier the liquid waste is passed to aeration unit for biological
treatments.
In aeration unit organic waste is introduced into a reactor where the bacteria culture carries out the
conversion of organic matter to CO2, H2O and other products as typical reaction shown below .
Organic matter + O2 + nutrients ? CO2 + H2O + other end products
It should be noted that urea , diammonium phosphate (DAP) and are geneally used as nutrients in
aeration tank
5 Sludge processing unit :
After biological treatment the sludge is passed to sludge processing unit . Special care should be given for
sludge management . the sludge can be filled into the three layer polythene bags and can be used for low
land filling purpose . Experts and scientists recently introduced a concepts of brick making by sludge .
Though it requires further studies regarding this purpose.
6 Secondary Clarifier :
After biological treatment the liquide waste is passed to the secondary clarifier. In secondary clarifier
the upper layer of the liquid waste remains stationary . The liquid waste is passed from the lower level of
the secondary clarifier so that remaining dissolved solids are separated as sludge
7. Disinfection unit:
The treated liquid waste passed to this unit and treated with sodium hypochlorite to kill remaining
microorganism in liquid waste

125
Discussion
APS Group (Dyeing Unit). is the largest and most versatile business conglomerate in the private sector in
Bangladesh. APS Group (Dyeing Unit). is committed to the best human workplace practices. Their goal is
to continuously improve their Human resource policies and procedures through education, training,
communication and employees involvement. Right from inception the policy of the company has been to
provide total customer satisfaction by offering quality woven & knitwear in time. Working on new
concepts in styling & content of the knitwear is a continuous activity in APS Group (Dyeing Unit). with an
objective to up the quality and the value of merchandise. To meet the manufacturing to quality and
promote delivery. APS Group (Dyeing Unit). decided to integrate the manufacturing process in a planned
manner. Over the year the entire process has been integrated by importing sophisticated machinery from
world-renowned manufacturers. For achieving their goal, APS Group (Dyeing Unit). are textiles graduates.
According to their capacity they have an enriched production team which is very rare in other factories of
Bangladesh. The working environment of APS Group (Dyeing Unit). is very cordially & friendly. All of the
executives & employees of APS Group (Dyeing Unit). are very much cordial & they always appreciate the
learners.
The goal of APS Group (Dyeing Unit). is to get high production & to maintain the quality of the product at
a minimum cost. There is no non-woven m/c in APS Group (Dyeing Unit). But APS Group (Dyeing Unit). is
able to produce all types of knit structure. There is no person to input the self shade of different types of
lot everyday in the spectrophotometer but for accuracy of the recipe, it is very important to input the self
shade of different lot of dyes in a regular basis. In dyeing lab APS Group (Dyeing Unit). is using digital
pipetting system I think their accuracy will increase to a maximum level. For dyeing they are using Thies
m/c but those are not latest. If they use latest Thies of Sclabos m/c, I think their product quality will be
higher.

126
Conclusion
Industrial attachment program send me to the expected destiny of practical life. The completion of six
week industrial attachment at APS Group. I have got the impression that the factory is one of the most
modern knit dyeing project in Bangladesh. Though it was established only few years ago, it has earned
very good reputation for its best performance over any other knit dyeing project.
During my industrial attachment program I had tried to my best to done my duty. My supervising officer
also satisfied to me & offer co-operation in every steps. It is completely a new experience in my life,
which will be very effective in my service life. During my training period I realized that practical
experience is valuable for service life.

Industrial attachment of APS group ltd

More Related Content

What's hot

Viewers also liked

Similar to Industrial attachment of APS group ltd

More from Mazadul Hasan Shishir

Recently uploaded

Industrial attachment of APS group ltd