This document provides details on testing the length and uniformity of cotton fibers using a Fibrograph instrument. It describes the apparatus, sampling and specimen preparation methods, testing procedures, calculations, and reporting of results. Key details include:
- The Fibrograph scans fiber samples to create a fibrogram curve from which fiber length and uniformity measurements are derived.
- Samples are prepared by combing fibers randomly onto combs and inserting them into the Fibrograph.
- The instrument measures the span lengths at specific percentage points along the fibrogram curve, from which average lengths and a uniformity ratio are calculated.
Flat knitting is a method for producing knitted fabrics in which the work is turned periodically, i.e., the fabric is worked with alternating sides facing the knitter. A "Flat" or Vee Bed knitting machine consists of 2 flat needle beds arranged in an upside-down "V" formation.
In weft knitting, the loops are formed across width of the fabric Each weft thread is fed , more or less at right angles to the direction in which the fabric is produced.Weft-knit fabrics may also be knit with multiple yarns, usually to produce interesting color patterns.
Drafting is the creation of a drawing or other graphical representation of a building, mechanical device or other structure for the purposes of determining how the device should be created. Drafting is used as a part of the design and fabrication processes. Drafting can be done by hand or using specially designed computer programs and mechanical drawings.
Drafting arrangement is the most important part of the machine. It influences mainly evenness and strength The following points are therefore very important
Wrinkle free resin finishing is a process to apply chemical resin onto fabrics functioning crosslinking between hydrogen bonds in order to enhance stability, on other words, fabrics are prevent to wrinkling. The ability of a fabric to recover to a definite degree is called crease recovery of the fabric.Tendency of fabrics made by cellulose, regenerated cellulose and blends with synthetic fibers to wrinkle after washing, tumble drying and wearing are higher. Today everybody wishes for that his/her dress retains just ironed shape. Wrinkle free finishes provide wrinkle free and soft look fabric. Wrinkle free finishes are broadly used in the textile industry to impart wrinkle-resistance to cellulosic materials such as cotton fabric.
Knowing the basics of raw material, yarn production process and the other factors influencing quality will put the sourcing manager at the same eye level as a spinner /supplier when negotiating quality issues.
As a consequence this puts the sourcing manager in the position to pay the right price for the corresponding quality level.
This kind of know-how supports a retailer enormously in his efforts to establish a reliable supply chain which is based on mutual understanding.
Terry fabric is a knitted fabric with ring yarn or terry covering at one or both sides. It belongs to one of the fancy knitted fabrics. Terry fabric is characterized by soft touch, thick texture, excellent water absorption and heat retention. Terry fabric can be divided into single-sided and double-sided terry loop fabrics. The terry can form pattern effect on the knitting surface distributed according to some certain rules. Terry fabric after shearing or other process can be turned into fleece fabric or velvet fabric.
Pilling is formation of little balls of fibers (pills) on the surface of a fabric which is caused by abrasion in wear.
Pilling is the tendency of fibers to come loose from a fabric surface and form balled particles of fiber
All content of this slide is not mine. Totally copy paste from Understanding Textiles for a Merchandiser-Shah Alimuzzaman Belal and Fabric Structure & Design-N.Gokarnishan, also from various websites.
I am just collect and rearrange them.
Nurunnabi
Lecturer
National Institute of Textile Engineering & Research
Flat knitting is a method for producing knitted fabrics in which the work is turned periodically, i.e., the fabric is worked with alternating sides facing the knitter. A "Flat" or Vee Bed knitting machine consists of 2 flat needle beds arranged in an upside-down "V" formation.
In weft knitting, the loops are formed across width of the fabric Each weft thread is fed , more or less at right angles to the direction in which the fabric is produced.Weft-knit fabrics may also be knit with multiple yarns, usually to produce interesting color patterns.
Drafting is the creation of a drawing or other graphical representation of a building, mechanical device or other structure for the purposes of determining how the device should be created. Drafting is used as a part of the design and fabrication processes. Drafting can be done by hand or using specially designed computer programs and mechanical drawings.
Drafting arrangement is the most important part of the machine. It influences mainly evenness and strength The following points are therefore very important
Wrinkle free resin finishing is a process to apply chemical resin onto fabrics functioning crosslinking between hydrogen bonds in order to enhance stability, on other words, fabrics are prevent to wrinkling. The ability of a fabric to recover to a definite degree is called crease recovery of the fabric.Tendency of fabrics made by cellulose, regenerated cellulose and blends with synthetic fibers to wrinkle after washing, tumble drying and wearing are higher. Today everybody wishes for that his/her dress retains just ironed shape. Wrinkle free finishes provide wrinkle free and soft look fabric. Wrinkle free finishes are broadly used in the textile industry to impart wrinkle-resistance to cellulosic materials such as cotton fabric.
Knowing the basics of raw material, yarn production process and the other factors influencing quality will put the sourcing manager at the same eye level as a spinner /supplier when negotiating quality issues.
As a consequence this puts the sourcing manager in the position to pay the right price for the corresponding quality level.
This kind of know-how supports a retailer enormously in his efforts to establish a reliable supply chain which is based on mutual understanding.
Terry fabric is a knitted fabric with ring yarn or terry covering at one or both sides. It belongs to one of the fancy knitted fabrics. Terry fabric is characterized by soft touch, thick texture, excellent water absorption and heat retention. Terry fabric can be divided into single-sided and double-sided terry loop fabrics. The terry can form pattern effect on the knitting surface distributed according to some certain rules. Terry fabric after shearing or other process can be turned into fleece fabric or velvet fabric.
Pilling is formation of little balls of fibers (pills) on the surface of a fabric which is caused by abrasion in wear.
Pilling is the tendency of fibers to come loose from a fabric surface and form balled particles of fiber
All content of this slide is not mine. Totally copy paste from Understanding Textiles for a Merchandiser-Shah Alimuzzaman Belal and Fabric Structure & Design-N.Gokarnishan, also from various websites.
I am just collect and rearrange them.
Nurunnabi
Lecturer
National Institute of Textile Engineering & Research
High Volume Instrument in QC Department of Textile IndustryMohiuddin Chowdhury
The testing of fibers was always of importance to the spinner. It is done by the HVI machine. High volume instrument systems are based on the fiber bundle strength testing, ie, many fibers are checked at the same time and their average values determined. Traditional testing using micronaire, pressley, stelometre, and fibrous graph are designed to determine average value for a large number of fibers, the so called fibre bundle tests. In HVI, the bundle testing method is automated. Here, the time for testing is less and so the number of samples that could be processed is increased, quite considerably. The influence of operator is reduced.
Testing is the process or procedure to determines the quality of a product.The testing of textile products is an expensive business. A textile commercial laboratory has to be set up and furnished with a range of test equipment.Textile Testing & Quality Control (TTQC) is very important work or process in each department of export oriented industry. Buyers want quality but not quantity. In every department of textile industry quality maintained of each material, because one material’s quality depend on another’s quality. For example, if qualified fiber is inputted then output will be good yarn.
This PPT are used for textile engineering students, textile technology who takes textile testing courses. the PPt prepared from different books and NPTEL textile engineering web site.
Effect of count and stitch length on spirality of single jersey knit fabriceSAT Journals
Abstract
The following paper focuses on change in spirality due to stitch length and count variation .This work was carried out with 12 samples of single jersey knit fabrics which were scoured and bleached with NaOH and H2O2 (35% strength), dyed with reactive dye (Remazol Yellow RR reactive class) and were finished as standard procedure . After finishing the samples were tested for spirality and compared between different stitch length and count. The result obtained in this research indicated that spirality increases strongly due to increase of stitch length when count of yarn is fixed and on fixed stitch length spirality increases with the increment of count.
Keywords: Spirality, Count, Stitch length.
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Fibrograph
1. Page 1
Department of Textile Engineering
Assignment on: Fibrograph
Course Code : TEX-2031
Course Title : Textile Testing & Quality Control-1
Submitted To:
S.M. Masum Alam
Lecturer
Department of Textile Engineering
SEU.
Submitted By:
Name: Tahmidur Rahman
ID: 2012200400014
Batch: 21st
Section: A
Submission Date: 24/08/14
2. Page 2
Fibrogram
Introduction:
The fibrograph is an optical instrument employing photovoltaic
cells for scanning samples of parallel fibres and tracing a type of
length- frequency curve. The theory is developed for a sample of
parallel fibres in which the fibres are positioned at random. The
geometrical interpreta tion of the resulting curve, or fibrogram,
indicates simple length and area measurements that give various
average lengths and statistical quantities, such as standard
deviation and coefficient of variation. Experimental fibrograms
are compared with the equivalent data derived from absolute
length measurements, using a projection method. The waviness
and taper of the fibres, along with other minor factors, cause the
fibrogram to be too short. When the length coördinates are
increased 19%, the fibrogram is equivalent to the curve obtained
from absolute measurements. The instrument makes possible the
rapid measurement of fibre length and fibre-length uniformity of
raw fibre samples.
3. Page 3
Scope:
This test method covers the measurement of the length and
length uniformity of cotton fibers by use of the Fibrograph.
The test method is applicable to fibers taken from raw or
partially processed cotton or some types of cotton waste, but not
to fibers from blends of cotton with other fibers or to fibers
recovered from cotton yarns or fabrics.
This test method covers procedures for all models of the Digital
Fibrograph, hereafter referred to as Fibrograph.
The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as standard. No
other units of measurement are included in this standard.
This standard does not purport to address all of the safety
concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility
of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and
health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory
limitat3. Terminology
4. Page 4
Definitions:
Amount, n—cotton length testing with the Fibrograph, n—a
measure of the thickness, or optical density, of the test beard,
proportional to the number of fibers present at various distances
from the comb(s).
fibrogram, n—in cotton length testing with the Fibrograph, the
curve representing the second cumulation of the length
distribution of the fibers sensed by the length measuring
instrument in scanning the fiber board.
Span length (Fibrograph), n—the distance spanned by a
specified percentage of the fibers in the test beard, taking the
amount reading at the starting point of the scanning as 100 %.
test beard, n—in length testing of cotton, the portion of the test
specimen that has been combed and brushed into a “beard”
which protrudes from the outside of the comb(s) or the clamp(s).
Test specimen (Fibrograph), n—the cotton fibersplaced
randomly on a Fibrograph comb(s) for fiber length
measurements. Uniformity ratio, n—in cotton length testing
with the Fibrograph, the ratio between two span lengths
expressed as a percentage of the longer length.
Discussion—various span lengths and measures of length
uniformity may be calculated from the results of the measured
points, but the 2.5 and 50 % span lengths and the
5. Page 5
50/2.5 uniformity ratio are usually used.
For definitions of other textile terms used in this method, refer to
Terminology D 123.
Summary of Test Method:
Fibers are placed on comb(s) in such a way that they are caught
at random points along their lengths to form a beard.
The beard is scanned photo electrically from base to tip, the
amount of light passing through the beard being used as a
measure of the number of fibers that extend various distances
from the comb(s).
The Fibrograph shows the amount and the length readings from
the Fibrogram being sensed on separate dials.
The instrument can show percent, the distance spanned by
predetermined percentages of the cotton fibers in the beard.
Significance and Use:
This test method is considered satisfactory for acceptance testing
when the levels of the laboratories are controlled by the use of
the same reference standard cotton samples because the current
estimates of between-laboratory precision are acceptable under
these conditions. In case of dispute, the statistical bias, if any,
between the laboratories of the purchaser and the laboratory of
6. Page 6
the seller should be determined with each comparison being
based on testing randomized specimens from one sample of
material.
Fibrograph measurements provide a relatively fast method for
determining the length and length uniformity of the fibers in a
sample of cotton in a reproducible manner.
Results of the Fibrograph length tests do not necessarily agree
with those obtained by other methods for measuring lengths of
cotton fibers because of the effect of fiber crimp and other
factors.
Fibrograph tests are more objective than commercial staple
length classifications and also provide additional information on
fiber length uniformity of cotton fibers. The cotton quality
information provided by these results is used in research studies
and quality surveys, in checking commercial staple length
classifications, in assembling bales of cotton into uniform lots,
and for other purposes.
Fibrograph measurements are based on the assumptions that a
fiber is caught on the comb in proportion to its length as
compared to total length of all fibers in the sample and that the
point of catch for a fiber is at random along its length.
7. Page 7
Apparatus:
Fibrograph, 3 Digital models, with accessory equipment as
shown in Fig. 1.
Fibrosampler, for the preparation of test specimens (optional) as
shown in Fig. 2.
8. Page 8
Sampling:
Division into Lots—for acceptance testing purposes, the
purchaser and the supplier shall agree on what material
constitutes a lot.
Lot Sample—As a lot sample for acceptance testing, take at
random the number of shipping containers directed in an
9. applicable material specification or other agreement between the
purchaser and the supplier, such as an agreement to use Practice
D 1441.
Laboratory Sample—As a laboratory sample for acceptance
testing, select and prepare a 30 to 225 g (1 to 8 oz) subsample
from each of the shipping containers in the lot sample,
proceeding as directed in Practice D 1441 using either the
blended sample procedure or the subsample procedure as agreed
between the purchaser and the supplier.
Test Specimens—as directed in Section 10, prepare either two or
four specimens from each subsample in the laboratory sample.
For acceptance testing, test either two or four specimens from
each subsample in the laboratory sample as agreed between the
purchaser and the supplier.
Preparation and Adjustment of
Apparatus:
Page 9
Set up the Fibrograph and adjust it as directed in the
manufacturer’s instructions for the model being used.
Set up and adjust the Fibrosampler as directed in the
manufacturer’s instructions.
Before making Fibrograph length tests, allow the instrument to
warm up until it is electronically stable, and then carefully check
10. it both electronically and mechanically by using the methods for
specific items.
Check the length and sensitivity controls according to the
manufacturer’s instructions and recommendations for the model
being used. Compare the instrument measurement of the length
of a card or similar item to its known length to check the
correctness of the length indicator.
Compare the instrument measurement of light passage through
different varying numbers of cellophane sheets to check the
linearity or optical calibration.
Measure specimens of cotton fibers from a laboratory control
sample with established length values. Each technician must
measure separate specimens prepared from a laboratory control
sample and obtain acceptable length results before performing
similar measurements on specimens from unknown samples.
When unacceptable results are obtained from the laboratory
control sample, recheck the instrument adjustments and the
testing techniques until acceptable results are obtained.
Make additional length measurements of specimens taken from
the laboratory control sample at least every 2 h during the day to
maintain a continuing check on the level of results.
Page 10
11. Page 11
Conditioning:
Before preparing the specimens, bring the laboratory sample
from the prevailing atmosphere to moisture equilibrium for
testing in the standard atmosphere for testing textiles.
Exposure to moving air for a period of at least 4 h is usually
required, and a longer conditioning period is essential for large
samples and for moist samples. Preconditioning is not necessary.
Preparation of Specimens:
Hand Combing Method:
Place a portion of the conditioned laboratory sample on a pair of
Fibrograph combs. Distribute the fibers evenly across the width
of the combs while placing the fibers randomly along their
lengths on the teeth of the combs. Place sufficient cotton on the
combs for each test specimen toproduce amount readings of
1.200 to 1.600.
Untangle and parallelize the beard of fibers protruding from the
outer side of the teeth of the combs by holding one comb in each
hand and gently combing the fibers from each comb with the
teeth of the other comb. Transfer the fibers from one comb to
the other and repeat the combing operation if desirable to obtain
a uniform distribution of fibers on the combs.
12. Check to see if there is an approximately uniform distribution of
fibers on each comb by holding the comb toward the light.
When the distribution is not satisfactory, transfer fibers from the
denser to the lighter areas of each comb. Do this by continuing
the combing action as directed in 10.1.2 while slightly tilting the
teeth of the comb with the lighter area to transfer fibers from the
denser area until a fairly uniform distribution is obtained on each
comb.
Fibrosampler Method (Fig. 2):
Place the Fibrosampler comb in the combholder with the teeth
uppermost. Place the laboratory sample in the cylinder and press
it against the curved and perforated sample plate. Rotate the
pivot arm for one complete counterclockwise revolution while
maintaining evenly distributed pressure over the surface of the
sample to load and comb the specimen of cotton fibers. Take the
loaded comb from the Fibrosampler, turn the sample around to
present a new surface to the perforated plate. If a second comb is
required, repeat the load procedure described above.
Clean the card clothing on the Fibrosampler periodically to
maintain effective combing action. To do this, raise the release
button to put the doffer in the cleaning position, rotate the doffer
one-half revolution clockwise to clean the clothing sector, and
return it counterclockwise one-half revolution to clean the
doffer.
Page 12
13. Page 13
Procedure:
After the Fibrograph is in proper operating condition and the
correct combing procedure has been established, insert the
loaded comb(s) into the comb holder of the Fibrograph with the
beard of fibers pointing downward. Brush the fibers with firm
strokes of the Fibrograph brush to remove loose fibers, to
straighten the other fibers without disturbing their distribution in
the teeth of the comb(s), and thus complete preparation of the
specimen.
Lower the lens assembly and manipulate the controls of the
instrument to scan the fibers in accordance with the
manufacturer’s instructions for the model being used.
Test either two or four specimens from each subsample in the
laboratory sample, depending on the precision desired, and if
possible have two technicians participate with each one testing
one half the numbers of specimens.
Read the span length values in inches or millimeters directly
from the dials digital display of the Fibrograph for selected
points in the length-frequency distribution for the desired span
lengths (Fig. 3).
14. Page 14
Calculation:
For the span lengths measured, average the results for all
specimens in inches to two decimal places or in millimeters to
one decimal place.
Calculate the uniformity ratio by dividing the average of the
shorter span lengths by the average of the longer span lengths.
Multiply the ratio by 100 to convert it to a percentage and round
it off to a whole number.
Report:
State that the specimens were tested as directed in ASTM Test
Method D 1447. State the method of preparing specimens used,
such as hand combing or by the Fibrosampler, and the number
of specimens tested for each subsample.
Report the following information:
Designation of the length and uniformity ratio values reported,
such as 2.5 % span length, 50 % span length, and 50/2.5 ratio.
The average length and uniformity ratio. The source of the
cotton fibers taken for testing, such as raw cotton, card sliver, or
waste.
15. Precision and Bias:
Inter laboratory Test Data:—An inter laboratory test
was carried out in 1969 in which two operators in each of three
laboratories performed fiber length tests by Fibrograph
measurement. Both operators tested two specimens from each of
Page 15
16. five subsamples from each cotton to establish standard values
for each of five different cottons. Each of the subsamples was
coded with a different number and the results were decoded after
the tests were completed. The operators performing these tests
had better than average skill and extensive experience. The
levels of the participating laboratories were controlled by the use
of the same group of control cottons. The components of
variance calculated from the results of these tests and expressed
as standard deviations are listed in Table 1.
Precision—for the components of variance above, the
averages of observed values for both the four specimen and the
two specimen tests should be considered significantly different
at the 95 % probability level if the differences equal or exceed
the critical differences in Table 2.
Bias:—No justifiable statement on the accuracy of Test
Method D 1447 for Fibrograph data can be made since the true
value of the properties can be defined only in terms of
observations made by a specific test method when controlled to
a standard level by the use of calibration cottons.
Page 16
17. Page 17
Referenced Documents:
ASTM Standards: D 123 Terminologies Relating to Textiles2
D 1440 Test Method for Length and Length Distribution of
Cotton Fibers (Array Method) 2
D 1441 Practice for Sampling Cotton Fibers for Testing2
D 1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles2
D 3025 Practice for Standardizing Cotton Fiber Test Results by
Use of Calibration Cotton Standards2
Thank you.