1) A tight-binding model for excitons in 2D and layered hexagonal boron nitride provides insight into its optical properties in the bulk and different polymorphs. 2) Ab initio calculations show the flattening of the exciton dispersion in bulk hBN leads to a mixing of direct and indirect transitions, consistently explaining conflicting data on band structure and optical spectra. 3) The model predicts an even stronger direct gap behavior for Bernal stacked hBN, despite it having an indirect fundamental gap.